JPS6139421B2 - - Google Patents

Info

Publication number
JPS6139421B2
JPS6139421B2 JP53042094A JP4209478A JPS6139421B2 JP S6139421 B2 JPS6139421 B2 JP S6139421B2 JP 53042094 A JP53042094 A JP 53042094A JP 4209478 A JP4209478 A JP 4209478A JP S6139421 B2 JPS6139421 B2 JP S6139421B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
dyeing
temperature
dyed
cheese
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
JP53042094A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPS54138657A (en
Inventor
Shinzo Nishizumi
Kazuo Tomiita
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toray Industries Inc
Original Assignee
Toray Industries Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toray Industries Inc filed Critical Toray Industries Inc
Priority to JP4209478A priority Critical patent/JPS54138657A/en
Publication of JPS54138657A publication Critical patent/JPS54138657A/en
Publication of JPS6139421B2 publication Critical patent/JPS6139421B2/ja
Granted legal-status Critical Current

Links

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】[Detailed description of the invention]

本発明は縮み織物の製造方法に関する。 さらに詳しくは、熱可塑性合成繊維糸条、特に
ポリエステル系合成繊維糸条の先染糸条から成る
縮み織物の製造方法に関するものである。 従来、熱可塑性合成繊維糸条を用いた先染によ
る縮み織物の製造方法は、原糸の製造時にポリマ
ーと染料をあらかじめ混合して得られた原着糸条
を用いて強ネン−ヨリ止めを施して製造するのが
一般的な方法である。 しかしながら、この方法においては、原着糸条
を少量多色製造することは、製造プロセス、色
数、コスト面などの問題を含むものであるため
に、ほとんど縮み織物用として実際には製造され
てはいないのが現状である。また、原糸に甘ヨリ
を施し、該糸条を綛状にして染色するか、或いは
甘ヨリ糸条を低い硬度でチーズ或いはコーンに巻
き染色する方法がある。しかし、綛状で染色した
糸条は過大な収縮が起こり満足なシボ質を得るこ
とが出来ない。一方、チーズ或いはコーン状で染
色したものはチーズ、コーン内での収縮ムラによ
り安定した先染糸条を得ることが出来ないのが通
常であつた。 本発明者らは、このような従来方式の欠点を解
消する新規な先染による縮み織物の製造方法を得
んことを目的として鋭意検討した結果、本発明の
方法に到達した。 すなわち、本発明の先染縮み織物の製造方法
は、ポリエステル系合成繊維糸条を染色以前に染
色温度よりも20℃低い温度乃至30℃高い温度の温
度範囲内で緊張状態で熱処理を施し、しかる後該
糸条にチーズあるいはコーン状で染色処理を行な
い、さらに該先染糸条に強ネン−ヨリ止め処理を
施して得られる糸条を用いて織成し、次いでシボ
立て処理することを特徴とする先染縮み織物の製
造方法である。 以下さらに詳しく本発明の方法について説明を
する。 本発明の縮み織物の製造方法は、ポリエステル
系合成繊維糸条を染色前に緊張状態で熱処理を行
ない、該糸条をチーズ、コーンに巻いた後、染色
を行ない強ネン−ヨリ止めの後、該糸条を任意に
配列して織成する。そして織成した生機をツボ立
て処理−仕上加工することにより優れたツボ質、
風合を有したポリエステル系繊維よりなる先染縮
み織物を得るものである。 本発明の方法においては、チーズ、コーンで染
色する前に、染色温度よりも20℃低い温度から30
℃高い温度範囲内で緊張状態で熱処理することに
より、染色後の糸条ヤング率は緊張処理以前と大
差がないものとなる。特に染色温度と同じ温度か
ら20℃高い温度範囲内がかかる効果が大きく最も
望ましい処理温度である。染色温度よりも20℃以
上低い温度で緊張状態で熱処理を行う場合、チー
ズ、コーンで内外層の収縮ムラが大となり、染色
の色差が生じ、ヤング率の差も大となり好ましく
ないのである。また、染色温度よりも30℃以上高
い温度で緊張状態で熱処理を行なう場合には、染
色工程での染着量の減少などの問題発生のほか、
布吊にしたあとでのシボ立ち性が極端に低下する
などの問題発生があり好ましくない。なお本発明
でいう処理温度とは、むろん糸が実際に処理を受
ける際の温度であり、例えば染色温度よりも50℃
高い温度に処理装置が設定されている場合でも、
短時間の処理等で糸の実質温度が染色温度よりも
30℃高い範囲内に入るのであれば本発明に含まれ
るものである。 本発明の方法は、染色時における熱的影響(収
縮または収縮染ムラ)を小さくするために、前熱
処理を緊張状態で行なうものであり、収縮した糸
が強ネン糸用に不適当な理由は、収縮した糸は伸
度が高く、強ネンの歪を伸びることで吸収し、後
のシボ立て処理時にトルク発現が小さくシボ発現
が少ないことによる。 第1表に本発明者らが確認をした緊張熱処理温
度と染色温度、さらに該染色により得られる先染
糸条の伸度5%時の応力、及びシボよせ収縮率、
シボ質との関係について1例を示した。
The present invention relates to a method for producing shrunken fabrics. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for producing a shrunken fabric made of yarn-dyed thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarns, particularly polyester synthetic fiber yarns. Conventionally, the method for producing shrink fabrics by yarn dyeing using thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn has been to use a yarn obtained by pre-mixing polymers and dyes during the production of raw yarn to provide strong anti-kink properties. A common manufacturing method is to apply However, with this method, manufacturing small quantities of dyed yarn in multiple colors involves problems such as the manufacturing process, number of colors, and cost, so it is rarely actually manufactured for use in shrinkage fabrics. is the current situation. In addition, there is a method of applying a sweet twist to the raw yarn and making the yarn into a skein shape and dyeing it, or a method of winding the sweet twist yarn with a low hardness around cheese or corn and dyeing it. However, yarns dyed in a combed manner suffer from excessive shrinkage, making it impossible to obtain a satisfactory texture. On the other hand, when dyeing a cheese or cone shape, it has usually been impossible to obtain a stable yarn-dyed yarn due to uneven shrinkage within the cheese or cone. The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies with the aim of developing a new method for producing shrunken fabrics by yarn dyeing that eliminates the drawbacks of the conventional method, and as a result, they have arrived at the method of the present invention. That is, in the method for producing a yarn-dyed shrink fabric of the present invention, the polyester synthetic fiber yarn is heat-treated under tension within a temperature range of 20°C lower to 30°C higher than the dyeing temperature before dyeing. After that, the yarn is dyed in a cheese or cone shape, and the dyed yarn is further subjected to a strong twist-preventing treatment, and the obtained yarn is woven using the yarn, and then subjected to a texture treatment. This is a method for producing yarn-dyed shrink fabric. The method of the present invention will be explained in more detail below. The method for producing a shrunken fabric of the present invention involves heat-treating polyester synthetic fiber threads under tension before dyeing them, winding the threads around cheese or corn, dyeing them, and strongly preventing twisting. The yarns are arbitrarily arranged and woven. The woven gray fabric is then subjected to pot-setting and finishing processing to achieve excellent pot quality.
A yarn-dyed shrink fabric made of polyester fibers having a texture is obtained. In the method of the present invention, before dyeing cheese or corn, the dyeing temperature is 30°C lower than the dyeing temperature.
By heat-treating the yarn under tension within a high temperature range of 0.degree. C., the Young's modulus of the yarn after dyeing is not significantly different from that before the tension treatment. In particular, a temperature range from the same temperature as the dyeing temperature to a temperature 20°C higher is the most desirable treatment temperature because of its great effect. When heat treatment is performed under tension at a temperature 20°C or more lower than the dyeing temperature, the shrinkage unevenness of the inner and outer layers of cheese and corn becomes large, resulting in color differences in dyeing and a large difference in Young's modulus, which is undesirable. In addition, if heat treatment is performed under tension at a temperature 30°C or more higher than the dyeing temperature, problems such as a decrease in the amount of dyeing during the dyeing process may occur.
This is undesirable because it causes problems such as extremely reduced graininess after hanging the cloth. Note that the treatment temperature in the present invention is, of course, the temperature at which the yarn is actually treated, for example, 50°C lower than the dyeing temperature.
Even when processing equipment is set to high temperatures,
The actual temperature of the yarn may be lower than the dyeing temperature due to short-term processing, etc.
If it falls within the range of 30°C higher, it is included in the present invention. In the method of the present invention, pre-heat treatment is performed under tension in order to reduce thermal effects (shrinkage or shrinkage dyeing unevenness) during dyeing. This is because the shrunk yarn has high elongation and absorbs the strain of the strong yarn by stretching, and during the subsequent graining process, the torque is small and the graining is less likely to occur. Table 1 shows the tension heat treatment temperature and dyeing temperature confirmed by the inventors, as well as the stress at 5% elongation of the dyed yarn obtained by the dyeing, and the wrinkle shrinkage rate.
An example of the relationship with grain texture is shown.

【表】 この第1表からもわかるように、伸度5%時の
応力が1.2g/dの糸条、すなわち緊張状態での熱
処理温度が染色温度よりも30℃以上低い糸条はシ
ボよせ収縮率が非常に小さく、シボ発生もほとん
どみられないのである。これは染色によつてヤン
グ率が低下するために、強ネン付与時に与えられ
た歪(解ネントルク)がヤング率低下部分に吸収
され、シボ立て時に解ネントルクとなつて収縮力
が発生しないためである。また、伸度5%時の応
力が1.6g/d以上の糸条、すなわち緊張熱処理温
度が染色温度よりも20℃低い温度から30℃高い温
度範囲の糸条はシボよせ収縮率も大きく、シボ質
も良好である。これは前述の場合とは逆に、強ネ
ン付与時に糸条に与えられた歪みを、緊張熱処理
温度よりも染色温度が高い場合は一部吸収される
が、シボ立て時には残存した解ネントルクが発生
して収縮力となり良好なシボとなるせいである。
また、緊張熱処理温度が染色温度よりも高い場合
には、強ネン付与時の歪みが吸収されることなく
シボ立て時にすべて解ネントルクとなつて発生す
るせいである。 このように本発明の方法によれば、安定して良
好な先染糸条による縮み織物が得られる。 上述のような前熱処理に基づくシボ発現の改善
効果は、ポリエステル系合成繊維使いのときに最
も顕著に発揮されるものであり、ポリエステル系
合成繊維以外に本発明手法を適用しても効果は乏
しいものである。 なお、また本発明によれば、染色前の緊張状態
での熱処理条件と染色温度の適宜の設定により、
シボよせ収縮、シボ質が異なるため巾広い先染縮
み織物の生産が可能となり、工業的価値の極めて
大きいものである。 以下、実施例を述べる。 実施例 ポリエステル系合成繊維糸条75D−36fをダブ
ルツイスターで150T/Mの追ネンを行ない、該追
ネン糸条を真空セツターで110℃×40分緊張状態
で熱処理を施した。その後にチーズ染色機用チー
ズに巻返し、該チーズをチーズ染色機(120℃×
120分)で染色を行なつた。該先染糸条に2300T/
Mの強ネンを施して、ヨリ止めを真空セツターで
85℃×40分行ない、該強ネン糸条をタテ方向S、
Zヨリ2本交互、ヨコ方向Sヨリのみで揚柳クレ
ープを織成した。該生機を110℃高圧ワツシヤー
シボ立て機でシボ立てを行なつたところ、後染の
揚柳クレープと大差のない良好なシボ質、風合の
ものが得られた。
[Table] As can be seen from Table 1, yarns with a stress of 1.2 g/d at 5% elongation, that is, yarns whose heat treatment temperature under tension is 30°C or more lower than the dyeing temperature, are not wrinkled. The shrinkage rate is extremely low, and there are almost no visible wrinkles. This is because the Young's modulus decreases due to dyeing, so the strain (resolved torque) applied during the application of strong elasticity is absorbed by the area where the Young's modulus is lowered, and becomes loosened torque during graining, and no shrinkage force is generated. be. In addition, yarns with a stress of 1.6 g/d or more at an elongation of 5%, that is, yarns whose tension heat treatment temperature ranges from 20°C lower to 30°C higher than the dyeing temperature, have a large grain shrinkage rate, The quality is also good. This is the opposite of the case described above, when the strain applied to the yarn during the application of strong texture is partially absorbed when the dyeing temperature is higher than the tension heat treatment temperature, the residual unraveling torque is generated during graining. This is due to the shrinkage force that results in a good grain.
In addition, if the tension heat treatment temperature is higher than the dyeing temperature, the strain during the application of strong texture is not absorbed and is entirely generated as loosening torque during graining. As described above, according to the method of the present invention, a shrunken fabric made of yarn-dyed yarns of good quality can be obtained stably. The effect of improving grain appearance based on the pre-heat treatment described above is most noticeable when polyester synthetic fibers are used, and the effect of the present invention is poor even if the method of the present invention is applied to other than polyester synthetic fibers. It is something. Furthermore, according to the present invention, by appropriately setting the heat treatment conditions in the tension state before dyeing and the dyeing temperature,
Because of the different grain shrinkage and grain quality, it is possible to produce a wide yarn-dyed shrink fabric, which is of extremely great industrial value. Examples will be described below. Example Polyester synthetic fiber yarn 75D-36f was stretched at 150 T/M using a double twister, and the stretched yarn was heat-treated under tension using a vacuum setter at 110° C. for 40 minutes. After that, the cheese is rolled back into the cheese for the cheese dyeing machine (120℃×
Staining was performed for 120 minutes). 2300T/ for the dyed yarn
Apply M strong glue and use a vacuum setter to prevent twisting.
The process was carried out at 85℃ for 40 minutes, and the strong cotton yarn was
A willow crepe was woven using two alternating Z twists and only an S twist in the horizontal direction. When the greige was grained using a high-pressure washer graining machine at 110°C, a good grain quality and hand was obtained that was not much different from post-dyed Ageryu crepe.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 1 ポリエステル系合成繊維糸条を染色以前に染
色温度よりも20℃低い温度乃至30℃高い温度の温
度範囲内で緊張状態で熱処理を施し、しかる後、
該糸条にチーズあるいはコーン状で染色処理を行
ない、さらに該先染糸条に強ネン−ヨリ止め処理
を施して得られる糸条を用いて織成し、次いでシ
ボ立て処理することを特徴とする先染縮み織物の
製造方法。
1. Before dyeing, the polyester synthetic fiber yarn is heat-treated under tension within a temperature range of 20°C lower to 30°C higher than the dyeing temperature, and then
The yarn is dyed in a cheese or cone shape, and the dyed yarn is further subjected to a strong twist-preventing treatment, and the yarn obtained is woven using the yarn, and then embossed. Method for manufacturing dyed shrink fabric.
JP4209478A 1978-04-12 1978-04-12 Production of yarn dyed crepe fabric Granted JPS54138657A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP4209478A JPS54138657A (en) 1978-04-12 1978-04-12 Production of yarn dyed crepe fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP4209478A JPS54138657A (en) 1978-04-12 1978-04-12 Production of yarn dyed crepe fabric

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS54138657A JPS54138657A (en) 1979-10-27
JPS6139421B2 true JPS6139421B2 (en) 1986-09-03

Family

ID=12626409

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP4209478A Granted JPS54138657A (en) 1978-04-12 1978-04-12 Production of yarn dyed crepe fabric

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS54138657A (en)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS54138658A (en) * 1978-04-13 1979-10-27 Toray Industries Production of yarn dyed crepe fabric
JPS60259650A (en) * 1984-06-01 1985-12-21 東レ株式会社 Production of knitted fabric containing hard twisted yarn

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS54138657A (en) 1979-10-27

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