US2419389A

US2419389A - Method of making matched fabrics

Info

Publication number: US2419389A
Application number: US613319A
Authority: US
Inventors: Cadous Alexander
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1945-08-29
Filing date: 1945-08-29
Publication date: 1947-04-22
Anticipated expiration: 1964-04-22

Description

April 22, 1947.

A.v CADOUS METHOD OF MAKING MATCHED FABRICS Filed Aug. 29, 1945 57'OCK FOR 577% TCHABLE FABRIC DYE Fae WARP F02 F/L use H/h L TWIST JP/A/ 7410; JP/N FOE NON- s 7R6 TCHA 84 E FA Bk/C WEAVE WEAVE JHR/NK SHRINK GARMENT INVENTOR ALEXA/V0456 (400w A' l ORNEY Patented Apr. 22, 1947 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF MAKING MATCHED FABRICS Alexander Cadous, New York, N. Y.

Application August 29, 1945, Serial No. 613,319

2 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of making fabric and more particularly to a method of making stretchable and non-stretchable fabrics which match in color and texture.

stretchable fabrics are woven in extended condition and after weaving are shrunk to their retracted size, which may involve a shrinkage of some 40% of their original dimension. They are then stretchable to their original size. Nonstretchable fabrics are also shrunk after weavin but to a lesser degree.

. One of the difficulties in matching the two types of fabrics, as for use in garments combining the two fabrics, resides in first securing yarns that exactly match in color. It is well known that yarns dyed at different times vary somewhat in shade in spite of all precaution taken in dyeing. Hence the fabrics are seldom matchable, even in basic yarn-color. A second, and more serious, difficulty is due to the difference in shrinkage of the two fabrics. Even if the fabrics are woven from matching yarns and of the same number of picks to the inch, the difierent shrinkages of the two fabrics alter the number of picks per inch in the final products and results in a variation in shade.

It is an object of the present invention to overcome the above-mentioned difficulties and provide matching stretchable and non-stretchable fabrics for garments.

Although the novel features which are believed to be characteristic of the invention are set forth in detail in the claims, the nature of the invention will be better understood by referring to the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawing in which a specific embodiment has been set forth for purposes of iilustration.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of my improved process;

Fig. 2 is a diagram representing the stretchable fabric as woven;

Fig. 3 is a diagram representing the same fabric after shrinking;

Fig. 4 is a diagram representing the nonstretchable fabric as woven;

Fig. 5 is a diagram representing the same fabric after shrinking; and

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of a garment embodying the two fabrics of Figs. 3 and 5.

More specifically, I obtain the desired results by controlling the process from the dyeing of the yarn to the selection of the finished fabrics. In accordance with my process, the skein dyed or stock dyed yarns are dyed in individual lots and are segregated so that the yarn of each lot may be handled separately. This is feasible on a commercial scale as the lots may be extremely large.

The dyed yarn of each lot, which is of uniform size and color, is divided and allocated to the stretchable fabric and to the non-stretchable fabric in a ratio determined by the relative quantities of each fabric required in the end product. For the manufacture of certain skirts, for example, one part of stretchable fabric may be required to seven parts of non-stretchable fabric, or for slacks, the ratio may be one to nine, varying according to design. Each individual dye lot of wool, cotton or synthetic fiber yarn is divided in proportion to the end use and the resultant amounts allocated to the diiferent weaving proc esses accordingly.

The portion allotted to the non-stretchable fabric is further sub-divided into separate lots for the warp and the filler, and the Warp yarn is given a higher twist than the filler in order to increase its strength as required. If stock dyed yarn is used the spinning is carried out after dyeing using selected portions from the same dye lot. If skein dyed yarn is used, the spinning takes place prior to dyeing and in that event the two twists are allocated in the proper proportion to the same dye batch.

The portion allotted to the stretchable fabric may be similarly sub-divided and the portion to form the warp given a higher twist than the portion to form the filler. In view of the nature of the stretchable fabric, the warp should have a greater tensile strength than the warp to be used in the non-stretchable fabric. Hence a greater twist is given to the former than to the latter.

In any case, the various twists should be not substantially greater than required to obtain the necessary tensile strengths in the various yarns.

The bare rubber yarn for the filler is covered with the dyed filler yarn allocated to that purpose as above described so as-to minimize the possibility of a change in shade when the fabric is stretched and to produce a uniform surface appearance.

In the weaving process, the rubber yarn is preferably woven to appear only on the back of the fabric so as to prevent the rubber yarn from showing from the front of the fabric when in a stretched condition and thus changing the shade.

The pick count is selected so that both the stretchable and non-stretchable fabrics will have the same pick count after shrinkage. This involves a reduction in pick count for the stretchable fabric during weaving of some 40% according to the shrinkage. The fabric may appear lighter both in weight and shade as woven. However, when treated in accordance with usual practice for shrinkage the weight, shade and texture of the two fabrics will be found to match so closely that they are practically indistinguishable. The differential in pick count may be present in either the warp or the weft, depending upon which part of th cloth contains the stretchable yarn. The same effect may be obtained in knitted fabrics by varying the thread count in th manner above described so as to produce matching end products.

Fig. 1 of the drawing illustrates this process in which the stock is dyed, segregated for stretchable and non-stretchabl fabric, further segregated for warp and filler for each fabric, and spun with high and low twists respectively, Woven into stretchable and non-stretchable fabrics, shrunk to corresponding pick counts, and combined in a finished garment.

Figs. 2 and 3 illustrate the relative pick counts of the stretchable fabric before and after shrinking. As shown, there is about a 40% shrinkage of the filler l and about shrinkage of the warp H.

Figs. 4 and 5 illustrate the relative pick counts of the non-stretchable fabric before and after shrinking. As shown there is about a 5% shrinkage of both the warp I2 and the filler 13.

The arrangement is such that both fabrics, as shown in Figs. 3 and 5, have the same pick count after shrinking and the pick counts of the fabrics as woven are calculated in accordance with the shrinkage of the particular yarns used. The percentages shown are merely illustrative of one type of yarn.

The warps I I and I3 are given a higher twist in spinning than the fillers l0 and I2 and the warp II, for the stretchable fabric, is given a higher twist than the warp 12 for th non-stretchable fabric for the reasons above started.

Fig. 6 illustrates a skirt embodying the two matching fabrics of Figs. 3 and 5. In Fig. 6 the stretchable fabric I4 is positioned at the top to stretch horizontally and the non-stretchable fabric I5 forms the lower part of the garment. The two fabrics I l and 15 are joined along inclined seam lines I6 to facilitate stretching of the fabric 14 at or near the seam line. The skirt of Fig. 6 is illustrative of various garments, such as slacks, panties, slips, or the like, which may embody the present invention.

The combined fabrics in the finished garments have matched characteristics which result in a pleasing and improved appearance.

Although a specific embodiment has been described for purposes of illustration, it is to be understood that the invention is capable of various uses. Changes and adaptations will be apparent to a person skilled in the art. The invention is only to be restricted in accordance with the scope of the following claims.

What is claimed is:

1. The method of making a garment composed of matched stretchable and non-stretchable fabrics, which comprises dyeing a batch of stock, dividing and allocating portions of the stock from the same dye lot to non-stretchable and stretchable fabrics, further dividing and allocating parts of each of said portions to warp and filler, spinning the warps to have a higher twist than the fillers and the warp for the stretchable fabric to have a higher twist than the warp for the nonstretchabie fabric, weaving the respective warps and fillers into stretchable and non-stretchable fabrics having a pick count ratio which is the inverse of their shrinkage ratios, shrinking the fabrics to the same pick count, and combining the fabrics in a garment,

2. A garment comprising stretchable and nonstretchable fabrics, said fabrics containing matching yarn, and when in unst-retched condition having the same pick count, the warp of each fabric having a higher twist than the filler, the warp of the stretchable fabric having a higher twist than the warp of the non-stretchable fabric, the filler for the stretchable fabric comprising a rubber yarn covered with said matching yarn.

ALEXANDER CADOUS.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,066,967 Whiting July 8, 1913 1,575,003 Recher Mar. 2, 1926 484,977 Picot Oct. '25, 1892 2,108,894 Kopp et al Feb. 22, 1938 2,241,889 Schweich May 13, 1941 2,271,749 Strohmeier et al Feb-'3, .1942 2,146,494 Adamson Feb. 7, 1939