JPS61146834A - Fancy yarn type special processed yarn - Google Patents

Fancy yarn type special processed yarn

Info

Publication number
JPS61146834A
JPS61146834A JP26295884A JP26295884A JPS61146834A JP S61146834 A JPS61146834 A JP S61146834A JP 26295884 A JP26295884 A JP 26295884A JP 26295884 A JP26295884 A JP 26295884A JP S61146834 A JPS61146834 A JP S61146834A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
slab
state
flat
specially processed
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
JP26295884A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPH0341570B2 (en
Inventor
正 関
福田 正裕
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Teijin Ltd
Teijin Frontier Knitting Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Teijin Ltd
Teijin Modern Yarn Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Teijin Ltd, Teijin Modern Yarn Co Ltd filed Critical Teijin Ltd
Priority to JP26295884A priority Critical patent/JPS61146834A/en
Publication of JPS61146834A publication Critical patent/JPS61146834A/en
Publication of JPH0341570B2 publication Critical patent/JPH0341570B2/ja
Granted legal-status Critical Current

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Abstract

(57)【要約】本公報は電子出願前の出願データであるた
め要約のデータは記録されません。
(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】 (技術分野) 本発明は、意匠糸屑特殊加工糸に関する。更に詳しくは
、グランド部、スラブ部共に撚構造を有し、かつ、グラ
ンド部に比べてスラブ部の撚密度が高いスラブヤーンと
フラットヤーンとが流体撹乱されてなる意匠糸屑特殊加
工糸に関する。
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Technical Field) The present invention relates to a specially processed yarn with a design yarn waste. More specifically, the present invention relates to a special textured yarn with a design yarn formed by fluid agitation of slab yarns and flat yarns in which both the ground portion and the slab portion have a twisted structure, and the twist density of the slab portion is higher than that of the gland portion.

(従来技術) 合成繊維のマルチフィラメント糸からなるスラブ糸の製
造法としては、仮撚加工を利用して得られたもの(特公
昭59−35147号、特開昭50−20062号)、
流体撹乱処理によって得られたもの(特公昭48−29
507号、同47−15547号)意匠撚糸機による方
法等が知られている。このうち、前者の仮撚加工で得ら
れたスラブヤーンは、スラブ部、グランド部共に撚構造
により構成されており、系全体として強撚糸風の風合に
限られ、昨今の素材の多様化というニーズにはかならず
しも対応り、きってはいない現状にある。しかるに、か
かるスラブヤーンは仮撚加工機という汎用機で高速下に
得られるばかりでなく、フラットヤーンに比べて風合的
に種々の点で優れており、その有用性は捨て難いものが
ある。
(Prior art) Methods for producing slub yarns made of multifilament yarns of synthetic fibers include those obtained using false twisting (Japanese Patent Publication No. 59-35147, Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 50-20062);
Obtained by fluid disturbance treatment (Special Publication Publication No. 48-29
No. 507, No. 47-15547) A method using a design twisting machine is known. Among these, the slab yarn obtained by the former false twisting process has a twisted structure in both the slab part and the ground part, and the system as a whole is limited to the texture of strongly twisted yarn. The current situation is that we are not necessarily able to respond to the current situation. However, such slub yarns can not only be obtained at high speed using a general-purpose machine called a false twisting machine, but also have superior texture compared to flat yarns in various respects, and their usefulness cannot be dismissed.

(発明の目的) 本発明の目的は、風合的、用途的に限られていた上記ス
ラブヤーンをして風合の多様化を図り、紡毛調からロー
シルク(Raws i I k)1mは勿論、梳毛調に
至る風合を実現できる意匠糸屑特殊加工糸を提供するこ
とにある。
(Object of the Invention) The object of the present invention is to diversify the texture of the above-mentioned slub yarn, which has been limited in terms of texture and use, from woolen to raw silk (Raws i I k) 1m, as well as worsted yarn. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a specially processed yarn with a design yarn that can achieve a texture that matches the desired texture.

(発明の構成) 本発明によれば グランド部、スラブ部共に撚構造を有し、かつグランド
部に比べてスラブ部の撚密度が高いスラブヤーンとフラ
ットヤーンとが流体撹乱されている複合糸であって、 (a)該スラブ部はフラットヤーンと実質的に引揃え状
態にあり、一方 (b)該グランド部はフラットヤーンと抱合状態にある
と共に該グランド部を構成 するフィラメントによる微小ループを するフィラメントによる微小ループを 有し、かつ (c)該スラブ部はその両端にある(b)の抱合部分に
より、位置固定されている意匠糸屑特殊加工糸 が提供される。
(Structure of the Invention) According to the present invention, the composite yarn is a composite yarn in which both the ground portion and the slab portion have a twisted structure, and the slab yarn and the flat yarn, which have a higher twist density in the slab portion than the gland portion, are fluid-disturbed. (a) the slab portion is substantially aligned with the flat yarn, while (b) the ground portion is a filament that is engaged with the flat yarn and forms a minute loop with the filaments forming the ground portion. (c) The slab portion is provided with a specially processed yarn having a minute loop, and (c) the slab portion is fixed in position by the joining portions (b) at both ends thereof.

添附図面は、本発明による意匠糸屑特殊加工糸の側面図
を示し、(a)はスラブヤーンのスラブ部1とフラット
ヤーン3とが実質的に引揃え状態にある意匠部、(b)
はスラブヤーンのグランド部2とフラットヤーン3とが
抱合状態にある地糸部である。また、4はループである
The attached drawings show side views of the specially processed yarn of the present invention, in which (a) shows the designed part where the slab part 1 of the slab yarn and the flat yarn 3 are substantially aligned; (b)
is a ground yarn portion where the ground portion 2 of the slub yarn and the flat yarn 3 are in a mating state. Further, 4 is a loop.

ここで、抱合状態とは、スラブヤーンのグランド部とフ
ラットヤーンとが主として、混繊・交絡状態、両者が互
いに巻きつきあった状態、さらには、一方を芯糸とてし
てこれに、他方が巻きついてなる状態をいう。
Here, the conjugated state refers to a state in which the ground part of the slab yarn and the flat yarn are mainly mixed/entangled, a state in which they are wrapped around each other, or a state in which one is used as a core yarn and the other is wound around it. It refers to the state of being followed.

本発明においては通常、混繊・交絡状態を抱合状態と称
するが、後者の撚糸状態も加工条件によって混在してく
る。このような加工糸は、前記のプヤーンとフラットヤ
ーンとを共にオーバーフィード下に流体撹乱域例えばタ
スランノズルに供給−する事により得ることができる。
In the present invention, the mixed fiber/entangled state is usually referred to as the conjugated state, but the latter twisted state may also be mixed depending on the processing conditions. Such a textured yarn can be obtained by feeding the above-mentioned soft yarn and flat yarn together under overfeed to a fluid disturbance area, such as a taslan nozzle.

この場合、前者のフィード量を3−18%、後者のそれ
を1〇−50%、かつ後者を前者より3−40%多くす
ることが肝要である。また、この場合の流体圧としては
、2.5−9.0KG/cm 2NrllfiI用され
る。
In this case, it is important to increase the feed rate of the former by 3-18%, the latter by 10-50%, and the latter by 3-40% more than the former. Further, the fluid pressure in this case is 2.5-9.0 KG/cm 2NrllfiI.

ここで、本発明の加工糸を形成する糸としては、スラブ
ヤーンの場合、仮撚加工が予め施こされることから、熱
可塑性フィラメント糸(ポリエステル、ポリアミド、ア
セテート)が好ましく使用される。この場合、スラブヤ
ーンの芯糸(コア)には単糸deが1〜3de、 トー
タルデニールが50〜200deのフィラメント糸が、
又巻付き糸(エフェクト)とには単糸deが0.01〜
3de、トータルデニールが50〜200deのフィラ
メント糸が用いられる。他方、フラットヤーンとしては
、連続フィラメント糸であるかぎり、前記の熱可塑性フ
ィラメント糸、再生繊維糸等を問わない。そして、その
太さとしては、単糸deが0.01〜3de、t−一タ
ルデニールが50〜200d eのフィラメント糸が用
いられる。このなかでも、特に、単糸deが0.5以下
でトータルdeが75以上のものを用いるとループが極
めて柔かくなり、ソフトターツチの加工糸を得ることが
出来る。なお、巻付糸と、フラットヤーンは、延伸糸み
ならず半延伸糸(POY)も用いることができる。
Here, as the yarn forming the textured yarn of the present invention, thermoplastic filament yarn (polyester, polyamide, acetate) is preferably used because in the case of slub yarn, false twisting is applied in advance. In this case, the core yarn of the slub yarn is a filament yarn with a single yarn de of 1 to 3 de and a total denier of 50 to 200 de.
In addition, the wrapped yarn (effect) has a single yarn de of 0.01~
3 de, and a filament yarn having a total denier of 50 to 200 de is used. On the other hand, the flat yarn may be any of the above thermoplastic filament yarns, recycled fiber yarns, etc. as long as it is a continuous filament yarn. As for the thickness, a filament yarn having a single yarn de of 0.01 to 3 de and a t-tal denier of 50 to 200 de is used. Among these, in particular, if a yarn with a single yarn de of 0.5 or less and a total de of 75 or more is used, the loop will be extremely soft and a soft-touch textured yarn can be obtained. Note that not only drawn yarn but also semi-drawn yarn (POY) can be used as the wrapped yarn and flat yarn.

(発明の作用・効果) 本発明によれば、スラブヤーンの撚係数を調整すること
により、紡毛調からローシルク調更には梳毛調に至る風
合を表現することができる。例えば、スラブヤーンの仮
撚加工時の撚係数Aを0゜01g、上0.25以下にし
、かつそのフィード量をフラットヤーン共々大きくする
と紡毛調風合となり、他方Aを0.25より大きくし、
かつ、フィード量を少なめにするときは、梳毛調風合と
なる。また、オーバーフィード量を少なめにし、かつ、
前記Aを0.3より大きくするときは(上限は0.65
程麿)、撚効果が優先して清涼感に富んだ風合となる。
(Operations and Effects of the Invention) According to the present invention, by adjusting the twist coefficient of the slub yarn, it is possible to express a texture ranging from a woolen texture to a raw silk texture to a worsted texture. For example, if the twist coefficient A during false twisting of the slub yarn is set to 0°01g, 0.25 or less, and the feed amount is increased for both the flat yarn and the flat yarn, a woolen texture will be obtained;
In addition, when the feed amount is reduced, a worsted texture is obtained. In addition, the amount of overfeed is reduced, and
When making the above A larger than 0.3 (the upper limit is 0.65
(Hodomaro), the twisting effect takes priority and the texture is refreshing.

また、ローシルクの場合、(イ)ナチュラルに変化する
太さ斑、(ロ)太くて、長いスラブ、(ハ)軽く、柔か
くて、しかも張腰のある風合が特徴である。この点、本
発明によれば、前記(イ)の点は矩形状のスラブがフラ
ットヤーンとの複合により、マイルドなスラブ形状とな
り、(ロ)の点はスラブの大きいものを用いることによ
り、更に(ハ)の点は撚糸構造とループとが共存してい
ることにより実現される。
In addition, raw silk is characterized by (a) naturally varying thickness, (b) thick and long slabs, and (c) light, soft, yet firm texture. In this regard, according to the present invention, the above point (a) is achieved by combining the rectangular slab with the flat yarn, resulting in a mild slab shape, and the point (b) is achieved by using a large slab. Point (c) is achieved by the coexistence of the twisted yarn structure and the loop.

尚、該Aは、次の式で表されるものとする。Incidentally, it is assumed that the A is expressed by the following formula.

A=仮撚数X  X # d e+@ /i% d e
 /32500また、a部にあるループは織編物にした
場合、脹らみ感と暖かみのあるスパンライク風合をかも
しだし、特にシャーリング等の仕上げ加工を施すと元の
ループのサイズ、個数により梳毛調から紡毛調までの様
々な風合の実現に寄与する。しかるに、(b)部の交絡
度、ループ数、ループのサイズは、フラットヤーンのオ
ーバフイードm1流体の流量、流体圧はスラブヤーンの
グランド部撚数、長さといった種々の要件の組合せによ
り調整すればよい。もちろん、ループは、前記(a)部
のみならず(b)部の地糸部にも生じ、(フラットヤー
ンのフィード量が高い場合)系全体としての脹みを増す
ことになる。
A=Number of false twists
/32500 Also, when the loops in part a are made into a woven or knitted fabric, they create a spun-like texture with a sense of swelling and warmth, and when finishing processing such as shirring is applied, depending on the size and number of the original loops, it creates a worsted-like texture. It contributes to the realization of a variety of textures, from wool to wool. However, the degree of entanglement, the number of loops, and the size of the loops in part (b) may be adjusted by combining various requirements such as the flow rate of the overfeed m1 fluid of the flat yarn and the fluid pressure, the number of twists of the ground part of the slab yarn, and the length. . Of course, loops occur not only in the (a) section but also in the ground yarn section (b), which increases the swell of the system as a whole (if the feed rate of the flat yarn is high).

ここで、本発明のポイントは強撚糸の風合を呈するスラ
ブヤーンのグランド部が流体撹乱により解撚され、脹ら
み感が生じると同時にこの部分をフラットヤーンと抱合
させると共にループを存在させることにより風合を広範
囲に変化させるものである。
Here, the point of the present invention is that the ground part of the slub yarn, which has the texture of a highly twisted yarn, is untwisted by fluid disturbance, causing a feeling of swelling, and at the same time, this part is combined with the flat yarn and loops are created. It changes the texture over a wide range.

本発明の特徴の一つとして(b)部が抱合されている結
果、スラブ部の固定され、系全体の取扱性が、特にJ1
編物へのスラブの再現が確保される事が挙げられる。す
なわち、仮撚加工により得られる前記スラブヤーンは芯
糸の回りに鞘糸が、単に巻きついた形をとっているため
、スラブ部は芯糸に沿って滑動し易く、形態が極めて不
安定である。しかるに、本発明の場合、スラブ部の両端
にあるグランド部はフラットヤーンと抱合しているため
、スラブ部は固定され、その後の取扱性が一段と向上す
る。
One of the features of the present invention is that part (b) is conjugated, so that the slab part is fixed and the handling of the entire system is improved, especially in J1
An example of this is that the reproduction of slabs in knitted fabrics is ensured. That is, since the slub yarn obtained by false twisting has a shape in which the sheath yarn is simply wrapped around the core yarn, the slub portion tends to slide along the core yarn, making the shape extremely unstable. . However, in the case of the present invention, since the ground portions at both ends of the slab portion are engaged with the flat yarn, the slab portion is fixed and the subsequent handling properties are further improved.

本発明の他の効果として、これまでには実現されていな
かった異色効果を呈する加工糸が得られる。つまり、ス
ラブヤーン単糸使いの織編物ではこれを染色しても単色
染めの布帛が得られるだけにすぎなかったが、本発明の
場合、スラブヤーンを構成する巻付糸の染色性をフラッ
トヤーンのそれとは異ならしめる事によりフラットヤー
ンと引揃状態に在るスラブ部はその染色効果がそのまま
現出し、一方スラブヤーン部のグランド部はフラットヤ
ーンと混戦、交絡しているので、巻付糸との中間色とな
りカラーコントラスト効果が得られる。
Another effect of the present invention is that a textured yarn exhibiting a unique color effect that has not been realized hitherto can be obtained. In other words, in the case of woven and knitted fabrics using single threads of slub yarn, dyeing them would only result in monochromatic dyed fabrics, but in the case of the present invention, the dyeability of the wrapped yarns that make up slub yarns is the same as that of flat yarns. By making them different, the dyeing effect of the slab part which is aligned with the flat yarn will appear as it is, while the ground part of the slab yarn part will be mixed and intertwined with the flat yarn, so it will have an intermediate color with the wrapped yarn. Creates a color contrast effect.

(実施例) 特開昭50−20062号公報第1図に示された工程(
ガイド7.8.9は使用せず)を利用してスラブヤーン
単糸、これとフラットヤーンとを次表に示す条件で加工
して本発明の意匠糸風特殊加工糸を製造した。次に。得
られた加工糸を経を次表に示す条件で加工して本発明の
意匠糸風特殊加工糸を製造した。次に。得られた加工糸
を経糸及び緯糸として、それぞれのカバーファクター8
を400として、2/2の綾織物を製造した。
(Example) The process (
Using a single slub yarn (without using guides 7, 8, and 9), a single slub yarn and a flat yarn were processed under the conditions shown in the following table to produce a specially processed yarn with a design yarn appearance of the present invention. next. The warp of the obtained processed yarn was processed under the conditions shown in the table below to produce a specially processed yarn with a design yarn appearance of the present invention. next. The obtained processed yarn is used as warp and weft, each with a cover factor of 8.
400, and a 2/2 twill fabric was produced.

ここで、カバーファクターBは、B=糸密度(本/吋)
 x イー11−(d eは糸のデニール)で表される
Here, the cover factor B is: B=thread density (books/inches)
It is expressed as x e11-(d e is the denier of the yarn).

表からも明らかなように、実施例1,3.6゜7の織物
は、膨らみと暖かみのある紡毛調風合を呈し、他方実施
例4.81物は梳毛調風合を呈した。また、実施例3,
4.6の織物ではエフェクトヤーンのみを黒色に染める
事によりスラブ部の黒色が映えた、いわゆる黒ネップヤ
ーンが得られた。更に、実施例7.8の織物では、]ア
ヤーンまたは、フラットヤーンのみを片染めすることに
よりスラブ部のエフェクトヤーンが片染めされ、白色に
映えた、いわゆる白ネップ糸が得られた。
As is clear from the table, the fabric of Example 1, 3.6°7 exhibited a fluffy and warm woolen texture, while the fabric of Example 4.81 exhibited a worsted texture. In addition, Example 3,
In the fabric of No. 4.6, by dyeing only the effect yarn black, a so-called black nep yarn in which the black color of the slab part stood out was obtained. Furthermore, in the fabrics of Examples 7 and 8, the effect yarn in the slab portion was dyed on one side by single-sided dyeing only the yarn or flat yarn, and a so-called white nep yarn that stood out in white was obtained.

また、実施例2,5では、スラブヤーンの撚構造がシャ
リ味となって感じられ、清涼感に富んだスパンライクの
風合が得られた。
Furthermore, in Examples 2 and 5, the twisted structure of the slub yarn gave a crunchy feel, and a spun-like texture with a refreshing feel was obtained.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief explanation of drawings]

添附図面は本発明による意匠糸風特殊加工糸の側面図で
ある。 図において、 1はスラブヤーンのスラブ部 2はスラブヤーンのグランド部 3はフラットヤーン (a)はスラブ部1とフラットヤーン3とが実質的に引
揃状態にある意匠部 (b)はグランド部2とフラットヤーン3とが抱合状態
にある地糸部 である。
The attached drawing is a side view of a specially processed yarn with a design yarn style according to the present invention. In the figure, 1 is the slab part 2 of the slab yarn, the ground part 3 of the slab yarn is the flat yarn (a), the design part (b) is the ground part 2, where the slab part 1 and the flat yarn 3 are substantially aligned. This is the ground yarn portion in which the flat yarn 3 is in a conjugated state.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】 (1)グランド部、スラブ部共に撚構造を有し、かつグ
ランド部に比べてスラブ部の撚密度 が高いスラブヤーンとフラットヤーンとが、流体撹乱さ
れている複合糸であって、 (a)該スラブ部はフラットヤーンと引 揃状態にあり、一方 (b)該グランド部はフラットヤーンと 抱合状態にあるとともに該グラン ド部を構成するフィラメントによ る微小ループを有し、かつ (c)a部のスラブ部はその両端部にあ る(b)の抱合部分により位置固 定されている ことを特徴とする意匠糸風特殊加工糸。 (2)スラブ部に、ループが存在する特許請求の範囲第
(1)項記載の意匠糸風特殊加工 糸。 (3)抱合状態が混繊・交絡である特許請求の範囲第(
1)項記載の意匠糸風特殊加工糸。 (4)抱合状態が巻付状態である特許請求の範囲第(1
)項記載の意匠糸風特殊加工糸。 (5)抱合状態が混繊・交絡状態と巻付状態との混在状
態である特許請求の範囲第 (1)記載の意匠糸風特殊加工糸。 (6)スラブ部を形成する糸条がフラットヤーンとは染
色性を異にする特許請求の範囲第 (1)記載の意匠糸風特殊加工糸。 (7)スラブヤーンが、芯糸と巻付糸とで構成され、そ
のグランド部が一重巻回構造であ り、他方スラブ部が三重以上の巻回構造を とつている特許請求の範囲第(1)記載の 意匠糸風特殊加工糸。
[Claims] (1) Both the ground part and the slab part have a twisted structure, and the slab yarn and flat yarn, in which the twist density in the slab part is higher than that in the ground part, are fluid-disturbed composite yarns. (a) the slab portion is in a state of alignment with the flat yarn, while (b) the ground portion is in a state of engagement with the flat yarn and has a minute loop formed by the filament constituting the ground portion, and ( c) A specially processed yarn with a decorative yarn appearance, characterized in that the slab part of part a is fixed in position by the binding parts of part (b) at both ends thereof. (2) The specially processed yarn that looks like a designed yarn according to claim (1), wherein a loop is present in the slab portion. (3) Claim No. 1 (
The specially processed yarn with a design yarn style described in item 1). (4) Claim No. 1 in which the conjugated state is a wrapped state
)Specially processed yarn with a design yarn style as described in item ). (5) The specially processed yarn that looks like a designed yarn according to claim 1, wherein the conjugation state is a mixture of a mixed/entangled state and a wrapped state. (6) The specially processed yarn that looks like a designed yarn according to claim (1), wherein the yarn forming the slab portion has a dyeability different from that of the flat yarn. (7) Claim No. 1, wherein the slub yarn is composed of a core yarn and a wrapped yarn, and the ground portion thereof has a single-wound structure, and the other slab portion has a triple-wound structure or more. Specially processed thread with a design thread style as described.
JP26295884A 1984-12-14 1984-12-14 Fancy yarn type special processed yarn Granted JPS61146834A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP26295884A JPS61146834A (en) 1984-12-14 1984-12-14 Fancy yarn type special processed yarn

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP26295884A JPS61146834A (en) 1984-12-14 1984-12-14 Fancy yarn type special processed yarn

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS61146834A true JPS61146834A (en) 1986-07-04
JPH0341570B2 JPH0341570B2 (en) 1991-06-24

Family

ID=17382907

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP26295884A Granted JPS61146834A (en) 1984-12-14 1984-12-14 Fancy yarn type special processed yarn

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS61146834A (en)

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPH0341570B2 (en) 1991-06-24

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