JPS6031940B2 - Manufacturing method of knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a knitted fabric using polyester filament false twisted yarn.

Recently, in the polyester filament industry, the development of differentiated products by drawing and false twisting has been increasingly promoted due to the advantage of streamlining the drawing process in the traditional polyester filament manufacturing process.

For example, the differentiated products include false-twisted yarn with a crunchy texture, bulky false-twisted yarn with a twist-like appearance, false-twisted yarn with a strongly twisted yarn appearance, or knitted denim-like luster. There are special false-twisted yarns such as false-twisted yarns. However, in producing these differentiated products, the birefringence and spinning speed of the polyester filaments subjected to drawing and false twisting are often limited, as seen in JP-A-52-199315, for example. Moreover, when producing knitted fabrics from the above-mentioned special false-twisted yarns, due to the special properties and structure of these yarns, the knitted fabrics tend to become loose or skewed. It is necessary to correct these defects through heat treatment and beam color finishing processes, and due to these corrections, the characteristics of the special yarns are not fully utilized in the knitted fabric. The inventors of the present invention have made extensive efforts to utilize the characteristics and structure of these special false-twisted yarns in striped fabrics. temporary combustion tension T2/T, (T is the twisting tension,
When L is the unlacquer tension) is controlled to 2.0 to 4.0, by slightly changing the number of false twists and the false twisting temperature, the yarn form and physical properties of the special false twisted yarn as described above can be obtained. It is possible to obtain textured yarns, and when using these yarns, it is only by adopting certain common knitting conditions and dyeing finishing conditions that the characteristics of these special false-twisted yarns can be utilized and tailored to each yarn form. We succeeded in obtaining a knitted fabric with a new texture.

That is, as mentioned above, when the spinning atoms of polyester filaments are drawn and false-twisted by controlling the false-twisting tension ratio T2/T to be 2.0 to 4.0 to produce a false-fired yarn, the Whether the false-twisted yarn has a textured texture or a uniformly twisted yarn-like appearance,
Regardless of other morphological characteristics, the torque and elongation of the processed yarn are generally high. In particular, since the torque Tr (times/kite) of the processed yarn is 50 to 150 vice/kite, the elongation is 30
~60%, knitted fabrics are knitted with these processed yarns, heat treated under specific conditions, dyed, and finished for the final finishing process. It has been discovered that the characteristics can be utilized in knitted fabrics, and furthermore, it is possible to obtain rope fabrics that do not exhibit kinks or skew, and have excellent thermal stability. The present invention was made based on this technical background, and has a torque Tr (times/machine) of 50STrS150 and an elongation Er (%) of 3.
After making a knitted fabric using 30% or more of false-twisted yarn containing 80 mol% or more of polyethylene terephthalate in various yarn forms with yarn physical properties of 0SEr Mi 60, the knitted fabric is subjected to a drying process of 190oo or more during the dyeing process. After being subjected to tension heat treatment under high temperature, it is dyed, and both the weft and warp directions are 1 of the knitted gray fabric.
We aim to provide knitted fabrics that take advantage of the texture of the yarns used by performing final finishing treatments, that is, ordinary finishing treatments in the industry, such as reheating treatment and antistatic treatment, without loosening the yarn by more than 0%. It is something.

In the present invention, the torque Tr of the false twisted processed yarn used as the yarn used in the knitted fabric is limited to 50 to 150 because if it is less than 50, the characteristic color of the texture and appearance of the processed yarn cannot be utilized in the green space. , 150, this is because rippling occurs during knitting, resulting in knitted fabric defects, and the skew of the knitted fabric becomes large and cannot be corrected.

In addition, the elongation Er of the processed yarn is limited to 30 to 60 because
If it is less than 3, it is difficult to produce a knitted fabric that reflects the characteristics of the processed yarn, and if it exceeds 60, the knitted fabric will have drawbacks such as poor heat setting properties and poor elastic recovery. It's for a reason. A false twisted yarn having such torque and elongation is independent of the spinning speed and has a false twist tension ratio L/
T, can be controlled to 2.0 to 4.0 and can be obtained by drawing and temporarily burning polyester filament paper yarn.

When knitting the pre-combusted yarn that has been drawn and pre-combusted in this way, we investigated various knitting structures and found that, regardless of the denier of the processed yarn, if the processed yarn is not used for 30% or more, the texture and appearance will be uncharacteristic. reached the conclusion that it could not be fully demonstrated. It has also been found that the characteristics of the yarn can be brought out particularly preferably by creating a reversible weave. In the present invention, the knitted gray fabric is then subjected to tension heat treatment at a dry heat temperature of 190 pm or higher, and the reason for this is that the above-mentioned false-twisted yarn has a higher elongation and shrinkage rate than ordinary false-twisted yarn. This is because the thermal stability of the finished knitted fabric is to be maintained through the heat treatment required due to the high lux. Here, the heat treatment temperature and tension tenting rate vary depending on the yarn used, knitting structure, alternating knitting ratio, degree of skew of the gray fabric, etc. If tensioning is performed at less than 190°C, shrinkage and skewness will be temporarily resolved. The knitted fabric is stable, but if it is exposed to heat from an iron or the like during sewing, it will shrink or warp again. On the other hand, in order to obtain a knitted fabric that takes advantage of the special characteristics of pre-combusted yarn, which has the characteristics of high torque and high elongation, as mentioned above, the relaxation rate of the knitting gray machine is increased and the yarn is sufficiently It is desirable to reveal the characteristics, but if the knitted greige is loosened by more than 10% in both the weft and warp directions, it will have the disadvantage that the waist of the rope will be completely lost or the skew will be reproduced. 10%
Should be less than As described above, in the present invention, the striped fabric that fully takes advantage of the shape and texture of the pre-burned yarn can only be stably produced by limiting the yarn to be knitted, the knitting ratio, and the dyeing and finishing conditions. However, when using false-twisted yarns that have certain conditions, i.e., a certain torque and elongation, even if the yarns have different shapes, they will have different textures depending on the yarn shapes. It is possible to easily provide a striped fabric having a characteristic appearance.

For example, when polyester spinning yarn is false-twisted, the tension ratio L/T is 2.
．． 0 to 4.0 When the weave of the yarn after stretching is ○, the number of false twists is 25,000/noD to 30,000/noD (times) and the false twisting temperature is 23,000 to 250°C. , torque is 50-150 (times/kite) and elongation is 30-60 (
%), as shown in Figure 1, when using a crisp, false-twisted yarn having alternating final untwisted portions that are strongly concentrated in the yarn axis direction and portions that are lightly concentrated due to pseudo-pigmenting, as shown in Figure 1. By the method of the present invention, a knitted fabric with a crisp feel is obtained, which does not produce pinholes as described in JP-A-52-99315.

In addition, when dyed, the strongly focused portions appear to be dyed in a dark manner, and the dyeing process of the present invention can also impart a natural foreign dyeing effect to the striped area. Further, similar rib yarns were twisted with a false twisting tension ratio L/T of 2.0 to 4. The number of false twists is 1
5000/no D ~ 20000/no ○ (times/kite) and the false twisting temperature is 245 pm, the torque is 5
When using a false-twisted yarn having an appearance similar to a strongly twisted yarn, which is almost uniformly tied in the yarn axis direction as shown in FIG. According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a striped area with an even sharper feel. Furthermore, the false twisting tension L/T of the same spun yarn is 2.0 to 4.0.
, the number of false twists is 20,000/D to 25,000/D (twice/
m) and stretching and pre-combustion at a false-twisting temperature of 205 to 5 qo,
Torque is 50-150 (times/enemy) and elongation is 30-6
0 (%), as shown in Figure 3, the filaments slightly concentrated in the center of the yarn cross section and the loose filaments on the outside have a difference in yarn length, and it is assumed that they are almost homogeneous in the yarn axis direction. When a striped fabric with a reversible composition is produced by the method of the present invention using twisted yarn, a striped fabric having a bulky and homogeneous twisted yarn-like appearance can be obtained.

Furthermore, the false twisting tension L/T is 2.0 to 4. The number of false twists is 15,000/zo 6 to 20,000/na 6 (times/skin) and the false twist temperature is 200 to 220 qo. )
When a false twisted yarn having a yarn form as shown in FIG. 4 and having an elongation of 30 to 60 (%) is used, Denite-like fullness and luster of the yarn grain can be imparted to the knitted fabric.

As described above, in the present invention, the characteristics of false twisted yarn can be fully utilized in knitted fabrics, and knitted fabrics with respective characteristics can be provided.

Example Polyethylene terephthalate was thread-removed at 36 holes, and then subjected to stretching, false twisting, knitting and dyeing finishing under the conditions shown in Table 1.

Note that the stretching false twisting was carried out using LS-6 manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd. The results are shown in Table 1. Test No. in Table 1. 2-8, 1
Examples 2 to 14 are comparative examples for clarifying the present invention. Table 1 Table 1 (continued)

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIGS. 1 to 4 show examples of pre-combusted yarns that can be applied to the knitted fabric of the present invention. Tsutomuna Kaeda 2 figures 3 figures 3 figures

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 Torque 50-150 times/m and elongation 30-60%
A knitted fabric is knitted using at least 30% polyester false-twisted yarn containing 80 mol% or more of polyethylene terephthalate, and the knitted fabric is subjected to tension heat treatment at a dry heat temperature of 190°C or higher, and then dyed. Both the weft and warp directions of the gray fabric are 1
A method for producing a knitted fabric, characterized by finishing the fabric without loosening it by more than 0%.