JPS60110967A - Treatment of hemp-like cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for treating linen-like fabrics that does not impair the linen-like texture and can prevent the occurrence of pebble-like grains.

Conventionally, in the case of a false-twisted thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, there are ununtwisted bundles due to residual real twist in the false-twisting heating direction in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and residual real twist in the false-twisting and untwisting direction. Woven or knitted fabrics using continuous untwisted yarns or partially untwisted yarns having alternately converged parts or bulky parts of overly twisted yarns are widely used as fabrics with a crisp, linen-like texture.

However, in such processed yarns, the single filaments are fused together during the false twisting process.

The bending stiffness of the yarn increases and it has a hemp-like texture, but if the ununtwisted bundle is bonded, each single filament will be fused and will have a structure with latent internal distortion.
During fabric scouring, dyeing, etc., the untwisted bundle is heated, and some of the bonded single filaments are peeled off, reducing the shape-fixing effect of each single filament adhesion. Only the shape fixing effect caused by heating remains, and therefore the torque produced by the false twisting process is developed. therefore.

When woven or knitted fabrics using such processed yarns are scoured or dyed in a relaxed state, the untwisted portions protrude in a convex shape, giving the appearance of a bulge, which impairs the appearance.

This tendency is more likely to occur in woven fabrics than in knitted fabrics, especially when such processed yarns are used as the warp or weft of a single woven fabric. It becomes noticeable.

In order to erase the grains that have once formed on the fabric, it is possible to subject the fabric to tension heat treatment, but since the threads are bound by the texture of the fabric, the heat treatment should be applied at a tension rate that will eliminate the grains. However, the disadvantage is that the fabric has a metallic luster, and the texture is hard and paper-like.

In view of the current state of woven and knitted fabrics using continuous untwisted yarns and partially untwisted yarns, the inventors of the present invention have investigated the adhesion between the single filaments constituting the yarn in the longitudinal direction of the yarn and the direction of false twist heating. We conducted a thorough study on the occurrence of horn-like grains in yarns that have a bunched part due to residual twist, and found that the occurrence of horn-like grains in yarns with high bending rigidity caused by adhesion of the single filaments that make up the yarn. It was found that the difference in torque between the strip at room temperature and after water treatment was a major factor. Based on this knowledge, Japanese Patent Application No. 140063/1987 has developed a yarn that has a rate of change (χ) of the swirl index of the yarn at room temperature after water treatment and is 120% or more and can prevent the occurrence of grains. However, such yarns had the disadvantage of having many restrictions in terms of materials and processing conditions, such as the need to use highly oriented undrawn yarn as a feeding system.

The present invention has been made in view of the above points, and its purpose is to improve the hemp-like texture of continuous untwisted yarns and partially untwisted yarns having the rate of change (χ) of 120% or more. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for treating linen-like fabrics that does not damage the fabric and can prevent the occurrence of pebble-like grains. To achieve this object, the present invention has the following configuration.

In other words, the present invention has a part in the longitudinal direction of the yarn that is bundled by thermal fusion bonding of single filaments and residual twist in the heating direction during false twisting, and The rate of change (χ) after water treatment with respect to the bottom is 120%
Prior to scouring or dyeing a woven or knitted fabric in which at least 10% or more of the above thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is pre-burned, the fabric is heat-treated without being substantially relaxed. The gist of this paper is a method for processing linen-like fabrics characterized by the following.

A: 2 mg/d at midpoint C of a 60 cm long sample at room temperature
The number of twists when the load is applied, folded in two to make a length of 30 cm, and the C end is set as the free end and the other end is the fixed end and the yarn is rotated freely M by the turning force of the yarn ( 17M).

B: The sample subjected to the measurement in A above was folded in two at midpoint C, and the sample was immersed in standing water for 10 seconds with C@ set as a free end and the other end as a fixed end without applying any load. After removal, the number of twists (17 M) was obtained when a load of 2 mg/d was suspended and freely rotated in the same manner as in A above.

Hereinafter, one aspect of the present invention will be explained in detail.

Firstly, the present invention has a part (ununtwisted bundled part) in the longitudinal direction of the yarn that is bundled by adhesion by heat fusion of single filaments and residual twist in the twisting direction during temporary processing. Rate of change in swirling index of the strip after water treatment at room temperature (χ)
False-twisted yarn made of thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn with 120% or more.

A woven or knitted fabric containing at least 10% by weight is knitted or woven.

The false twisted yarn used in the fabric includes 1, for example, as shown in FIG.
As shown in Figure 2, there are continuous untwisted yarns (3) which are also bunched together, and partially untwisted yarns (4) where the untwisted part (2) has become bulky due to crimping, as shown in Figure 2. The yarn has a χ) of 120% or more. A yarn with a rate of change (χ) of 120% or more has sufficient adhesion between the untwisted bundled part + 11 single filaments, and the bending rigidity of the yarn is large, so it is difficult to apply shari to a fabric using 10% or more of this yarn. A tasteful hemp-like texture can be imparted. On the other hand, yarns with a rate of change (χ) of less than 120% generally have untwisted bundles (11) due to insufficient adhesion between the single filaments, the bending stiffness of the yarn is low, and the rate of change (χ) is 1
Even if the yarn content is 20% or more, the usage rate in the fabric is 10%.
If it is less than %, the proportion of the yarn used is so small that it is not possible to impart a crisp linen-like texture to the fabric, which is not preferable.

In addition, when weaving and weaving using 10% or more of the yarn, it is possible to use a method of interweaving the yarn and other yarns, or by plying or fluid entangling the yarn and other yarns. Any method may be used, such as a method of processing and weaving or weaving, or a method of weaving or weaving using 100% of the yarn.

The fabric obtained above is usually scoured or dyed in hot water under a relaxed state.

In the present invention, first, the fabric is heat-treated with dry heat without being substantially relaxed in both the weft and weft directions.

As a result of the heat treatment, some of the bonded single filaments in the untwisted portion of the false-twisted yarn in the fabric are peeled off, and torque due to the false-twisting process is developed.

Since the fabric is heat-treated while being held without substantially relaxing, the fabric is prevented from changing its shape and from forming grains even when torque is applied.

The torque then decreases due to the moderating effect of the cent effect.

If the tension rate when heat-treating the fabric is too high, a metallic luster will occur, and the texture will be hard and paper-like, while if the tension rate is too low, the generation of torque will cause ridge-like wrinkles. Therefore, -10% to +10% is preferable, and -5% to +5% is more preferable. The heat treatment temperature for 1 hour varies depending on the material of the false-twisted yarn, yarn form, usage ratio, etc. 9 For example, in the case of polyester, it is at 170 to 200°C for 10 to 30 seconds, and in the case of nylon, it is Preferably, the heat treatment is performed at 160 to 190°C for 15 to 30 seconds.

In the present invention, as described above, the fabric is heat-treated without being substantially lyre-noxed, and then elliptical kneading and dyeing are carried out separately in the order of relaxation in hot water, or scouring and dyeing are carried out. After doing this at the same time, apply a finishing set. If the fabric is scoured or dyed in a relaxed state without being subjected to the above heat treatment, some of the bonds between the single filaments that make up the ununtwisted bundle of the false-twisted yarn will peel off, resulting in false-twisting. Torque is developed due to the twisting, and the untwisted portions protrude in a convex shape, giving the appearance of horns and damaging the appearance. However, in the present invention, the tightened fabric is heat-treated without substantially relaxing Since the torque of the false twisted yarn is reduced.

The torque developed during scouring and dyeing processing is small, and it is possible to prevent the formation of horn-shaped grains 41- due to convex protrusions of untwisted portions.

As the thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn in the present invention, any thermoplastic material such as polyester, nylon, or acrylic may be used, but polyester is particularly preferred from the viewpoint of processability and fabric properties. In addition, as a manufacturing method for a false twisted yarn having an untwisted condensed portion and a rate of change (χ) of 120% or more, 2 is, for example, a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament drawn yarn, in which some or all of the single filaments are fused. False twisting should be carried out at a temperature of
A method known in Japanese Patent No. 8448 or the like can be adopted.

As described above, the present invention has a bundled portion in the longitudinal direction of the yarn due to adhesion by thermal fusion of single filaments and residual twist in the firing direction during pre-combustion processing, and the twisting index of the yarn is The rate of change (χ) after standing water treatment at room temperature is 120%
Since the fabric is M-knitted using at least 10% of the false-twisted yarn of thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, which has high bending rigidity due to the adhesion between the single filaments in the untwisted bundled portion, the fabric has a crisp taste. A linen-like texture can be imparted. In addition, since the fabric is heat-treated before being scoured or dyed in a relaxed state, the torque of the false-twisted yarn can be developed and relaxed in advance during the heat treatment step, and the torque can be reduced. Because it is applied without virtually any relaxation,
Expresses torque.

It is possible to reduce the torque without causing the grain-like grain by relaxing it. Therefore, even if scouring or dyeing is performed in a relaxed state after heat treatment, a fabric with a crisp linen-like texture can be finished without generating grains due to torque development.

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically explained below using examples.

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate drawn yarn 150d/721 was prepared using an LS-6 plate twister (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries MJ) in Table 1 N1
False twisting was performed while applying shrinkage under the conditions shown in 11.

A partially untwisted yarn was obtained which alternately had ununtwisted converging parts and overtwisted bulky parts in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.

The resulting yarn with a swirling index (χ) of 132.7% was woven into a plain weave fabric with a greige width of 165 cm at a warp density of 68 threads/inch and a weft density of 62 threads/inch, and the tension rate of this fabric was 0% for both warp and warp. at 18
Although the fabric was heat-treated for 20 seconds in dry heat at 0°C, the untwisted condensed portions did not protrude from the surface of the fabric in the shape of a horn. Next, the fabric was scoured and dyed under a relaxed state in hot water, and then finished and set in dry heat at 180°C for 15 seconds to give a width of 163 cm. There was no generation, and it had a crisp linen-like texture and a fancy effect due to the difference in thickness between the ununraveled convergent part and the over-untwisted bulky part.

On the other hand, for comparison, the plain woven fabric was scoured and dyed under a relaxed state in hot water without being heat-treated, but the resulting fabric had vine-like grains due to the protruding convex portions of the untwisted bundles. occurs and 10% of the gray fabric width occurs in 2 finishing sets.
Even after applying tension dry heat treatment (180"C x 15 seconds), the grain-like grains were not eliminated.

Example 2 Continuous untwisted yarn obtained by processing the same supply system as in Example 1 under the conditions shown in Table 1 N112 was knitted into a mosochilani rib structure using a 22-gauge knitting machine.

The resulting fabric was treated in dry heat at 185° C. for 15 seconds under 15% tension (that is, 5% relaxation) from the greige width in both warp and warp, but the appearance of grains disappeared. Further, no giblet-like grains were observed after the first step and after the scouring and dyeing processes.

Example 3 Continuous untwisted yarn obtained by treating nylon 6 drawn yarn 100d/24f under the conditions shown in Table 1, Appendix 3, with a warp density of 83 threads/inch,
A plain weave fabric was woven at a weft density of 76 threads/inch.

The obtained fabric was heat-treated in dry heat at 175°C for 20 seconds at a tension ratio of θ% for both warp and warp, but no horn-like grains were generated, and no horn-like grains were generated after the next process of scouring and dyeing. There wasn't.

Table 1

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the appearance of continuous untwisted yarn used in the hemp-like fabric of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the appearance of partially untwisted yarn used in the hemp-like fabric of the present invention. In the figure, (1) shows an untwisted condensed part, (2) shows an untwisted part, (3) shows a continuous untwisted yarn, and (4) shows a partially untwisted yarn. Patent Applicant: Unitika Co., Ltd. Fue Figure 1 - Figure 2 Procedural Amendments (Own Ship 1, Indication of Cases, Patent Application No. 1982-218295 2, Name of Invention Method for Processing Linen Fabrics 3, Person Making Amendments and Cases) Relationship Patent applicant address 1-50 Higashihonmachi, Amagasaki-shi, Hyogo 541 Address 4-68 Kitakyutabe-cho, Higashi-ku, Osaka Name Unitika Co., Ltd. Patent Department Telephone 06-281-5258 (Dial-in) 4, Amendment Column 5 of Detailed Description of the Invention in the Subject Specification, Contents of Amendment TI) Page 5, Line 3 (D r 120% or more) of the Specification
120% or less,” he corrected.

Claims (3)

[Claims] (1) Heat fusion of single filaments in the longitudinal direction of the yarn
Thermoplastic material that has a focused part due to adhesion caused by the process and residual twist in the heating direction during false twisting, and the rate of change (χ) of the twist index of the yarn after standing water treatment at room temperature is 120% or more 9. A woven or knitted fabric containing at least 10% false twisted synthetic fiber multifilament yarn. Prior to scouring or dyeing in a relaxed state. A method for treating linen-like fabrics, which comprises heat-treating the fabrics without substantially relaxing them. A: 2 mg/d at midpoint C of a 60 cm long sample at room temperature
The number of twists (T /M). B: With the sample subjected to the measurement in A above folded in two at midpoint C, without applying any load to the C end, immerse the sample in boiling water for 10 seconds with this as the free end and the other end as the fixed end. After that, the number of twists (T/M) was taken out and rotated freely under a suspended load of 2 mg/d as in A above. (2) Claim 1, characterized in that the thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is polyester.
Method for processing linen-like fabrics described in Section 1. (3) The method for treating linen-like fabric according to claim m1 or claim 2, characterized in that the heat treatment is performed at a tension ratio of -10 to +10%.