JPS60199935A - Special processed yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] Industrial Application Fields The present invention is a woven or knitted fabric that exhibits a linen-like texture and a cannular appearance, and has less grain-like wrinkles, especially after ironing for clothing products. This invention relates to specially processed yarn that does not develop grain during processing.

Conventional technology> In recent years, the trend of developing yarn processing technology to make synthetic fiber filament yarns look like natural fibers has become a major trend, but recently there has been a growing demand for higher quality yarns. ing. In the field where linen-like texture is desired, attempts have been made to make linen-like textures by fusing filament yarns during false twisting. 9
This method has been proposed in JP-A No. 9315, Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No. 53-98448, and the like. The proposed false-twisted yarns are subjected to an untwisting action in the untwisting area because the twists twisted in the false-twisting area are simultaneously fixed due to the fusion of single filaments during the false-twisting process. After that, there are still untwisted condensed parts where the twisted twists in mJ remain without being untwisted, and over-twisted parts that have been crimped by the false twisting process and have twists in the untwisting direction. The yarn has twisted bulky converging portions alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. For this reason, in such processed yarns, the single filaments that make up the yarns are bonded together, and the yarns have high bending rigidity, so they can express a crisp texture, but the appearance of the fabrics obtained from these yarns varies from plain to marbled. I can only express up to the key,
It is not possible to express the long striped pattern of natural linen. Moreover, since these processed yarns have strong latent torque, the torque becomes apparent during heat treatment such as dyeing, and grains occur in the fabrics. In some cases, this grain in the fabric can be eliminated by applying strong tension and heating using a tenter during the dyeing process, but
Even in woven fabrics that have been freed from wrinkles in this way, the wrinkles will still occur during the ironing process during sewing, so it is currently impossible to commercialize fabrics that are substantially free of wrinkles.

Therefore, there has been a strong demand for yarns that are free of grain when used in woven or knitted fabrics, yet exhibit a hemp-like crisp feel and a Kanuso-like appearance.

<Purpose of the Invention> The present invention meets such demands, eliminates the drawbacks of conventional processed yarns, and provides a heat-fused portion that is bundled by heated twists in the yarn and a heating direction that does not involve over-untwisting. By specifying the heating welded part and the reverse twist welded part in the opposite direction, the fabric obtained has a hemp-like texture and cannular appearance, and also has a grained texture. The purpose is to prevent the occurrence of wrinkles, especially during ironing after clothing products.

<The component of the invention, that is, the feature of the present invention is a fused yarn in which a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is intermittently heated at a temperature above the softening point and below the melting point, It has heat fused parts and reverse twist fused parts alternately, and has a length of 100 mm.
The above heat fused parts and reverse twist fused parts are each 10 pieces/100.
m or more, the ratio of the heat welded part is 30% or more, and the apparent outer diameter ratio of the heat welded part and the reverse twist welded part is 1.
．． It must be 30 or less.

However, the ratio of the heat-fused part (goods) - x io.

A10B+0 A: Length of heat-fused part (mm) B: Length of reverse twist fusion part (mm) C; Length of non-twisted part mm) Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in detail.

First, the specially processed yarn of the present invention is a fused yarn made by intermittently heating a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn at a temperature above the softening point and below the melting point, and has a heat-fused portion in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. It has Fj4 reverse twisting parts alternately.

In other words, the specially processed yarn of the present invention is a fused yarn obtained by intermittently false-twisting thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn at a temperature above the softening point and below the melting point, as will be described later. It has alternating heat-fused parts (1) and reverse twist-fused parts (2) in which single filaments are fused in the direction. As shown in Fig. 3, the heat-fused part (1) is bundled by all or part of the fusion between the single filaments and the residual twist in the false-twisting heating direction, while the reverse-twisted part (1) (2)
As shown in Fig. 4, all the areas between the single filaments are lighter than the heat-fused part (1) where they are fused, and almost no crimp is added due to the false twisting process, and the direction of the false twist heating is different from that of the filament. It is focused with opposite twists.

In addition, in the section from the heat welding part (1) to the reverse twist welding part (2) and the section from the reverse twist welding part (2) to the heat welding part (1), heated twist and reverse twist Although there is a non-twisted portion (3) in which twisted parts are mixed, this non-twisted portion (3) may be substantially absent as shown in FIG.

The specially processed yarn of the present invention having heat-fused portions and reverse twist-fused portions alternately has a mixture of heat-fused portions and reverse twist-fused portions each having a length of 100 mm or more at a ratio of 10 pieces/10 Qm or more. It is.

In this case, both the heat welded part and the reverse twist welded part are 100%
If the length is less than mm, the resulting fabric will have a marbled appearance, which is not preferable. The length of 100 mm or more of both fusion parts can be appropriately selected depending on the length of the fabric to be obtained, etc., but is preferably about 200 to 1000 mm.

It is necessary that each of the shield parts be present in an amount of 10 pieces/100 m or more, and if the number of both shield parts is less than 10 pieces/100 m each, it is not preferable because the scratch-like appearance will not be reflected on the fabric. This one
The more uniform shield parts of 00 mm or more, the more the resulting tIJ fabric will have a scratch-like appearance, but it goes without saying that the number of them should be adjusted as appropriate in relation to the length of the uniform shield parts.

In addition, the fabric obtained from the specially processed yarn of the present invention exhibits a scratch-like appearance and also has a distinct appearance due to the difference in the gloss of the uniform part.

Furthermore, the specially processed yarn of the present invention has a heat-fused shield part ratio of mJ of 3.
It is present at 0% or more.

Here, the ratio of the heat-fused part refers to the length of the heat-fused part A (m
m), the length of the reverse twist fused part is B (mm), and the length of the non-twisted part. If the ratio of the heat-fused portion is less than 30%, there will be a large number of reverse twist-fused portions, and the obtained fabric will lose its linen-like crispness, and the drapeability of the fabric will be poor, resulting in a fabric that is similar to the intended natural fiber. This is not desirable because it does not occur.

Since the above-mentioned conventional false-twisted fused yarn is obtained by constant false-twisting operation, the length of the ununraveled and over-twisted parts is 50 mm or less, and Since the ratio of the fibers is also around 20%, the fabric obtained from the false-twisted fused yarn has a marbled appearance and cannot have a natural drapery appearance. In contrast, the specially processed yarn of the present invention has 10 heat-fused parts and reverse twist-fused parts each with a length of 100 mm or more.
Since the threads are mixed in a length of 100 mm or more, and the ratio of the heat-fused portion of the threads is as large as 30% or more, the threads are fused as a whole, giving a linen-like texture to the resulting fabric. It has the appearance of

Further, in the specially processed yarn of the present invention, the apparent outer diameter ratio of the heat-fused portion and the reverse twist-fused portion is 1.30 or less.

It is thought that the occurrence of grain in the fabric obtained from the conventional false-twisted fused yarn is due to the following reasons. In other words, conventional false-twisted fused yarn has internal distortion in the state where the ununtwisted bundles are bonded and the single filaments are twisted together. A portion of the single filament adhered to the bundled portion is peeled off, and as a result, latent torsion due to the false twisting process (latent torsion) appears. On the other hand, the over-twisted bulky convergent part is given a strong crimp in the heating direction by false twisting, then untwisted in the opposite direction, and then over-untwisted, so the helical diameter due to twisting becomes large and an extremely large part is created. Form.

Further, the apparent outer diameter ratio of the unresolved twisted convergent portion to the overly untwisted bulky convergent portion is 1.5 or more. For this reason, when such false-twisted fused yarn is used, for example, in the warp and weft of a fabric, the apparent outer diameter of the part where the ununtwisted bundles intersect or overlap adjacently is large. The space in the fabric is extremely large compared to the crossed or overlapping parts of the over-twisted bulky convergence parts. Therefore, when this woven fabric is dyed and finished, the latent torque of the ununtwisted convergent part is expressed in this wide space, and at the same time, strong torque is developed, and the over-untwisted bulky convergent part is concentrated by the untwisted strands. Shrinkage occurs, protruding into convex stripes, and it looks like something has grown out.
The larger the ratio of the apparent outer diameter to the bulky converging part of the crystallization twist becomes more pronounced.

On the other hand, in the specially processed yarn of the present invention, as mentioned above, the apparent outer diameter of the heat-fused portion that is bundled by the heated twist as a whole yarn and the crimp of the heated twist are hardly added. The apparent outer diameter ratio of the reverse twist welded part focused by reverse twist is 1
．． Small, less than 30.

Moreover, like the conventional false-twisted fused yarn described in 011, when the helical yarn in the heating direction that is once twisted is reverse-twisted, the helical diameter of the reverse-twisted portion increases; Since the fused part is not subjected to false twist crimp and is bundled by reverse twisting, the heated twisted part is not reverse twisted, and therefore the heated fused part and the reverse twist fused part are different. The difference in morphology is small. Therefore, when the specially processed yarn of the present invention is used as the warp or weft of a fabric, the heat-fused portion may be attached to the warp or weft where they intersect, or where the warp or weft adjoins and overlaps, or where the reverse twist fusion is applied. The difference in the space on the fabric between the intersection or overlapping area is extremely small compared to when conventional false-twisted fusible yarn is used in the fabric, and the potential torque of the heat-fused part of +2iJ is extremely small. Expression is regulated. Furthermore, as mentioned above, the reverse twist fused part is bundled with only the untwisted strands with almost no crimp added in the false twist heating direction, so only a slight shrinkage occurs, and therefore the heating fusion Both the attached part and the reverse twist fusion part form a stable form, and it is possible to prevent the occurrence of grain-like grains not only during dyeing but also during ironing after sewing.

To explain the manufacturing method and principle of the above specially processed yarn of the present invention,
For example, it can be obtained by subjecting a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn to unsteady false twisting at a temperature above the softening point and below the melting point. That is, when thermoplastic multifilament yarn is passed through a false twisting process using a compressed fluid twisting nozzle (hereinafter referred to as the nozzle), and the yarn is repeatedly turned and stopped by intermittently supplying fluid to the nozzle, The thermally fused portion is formed by the strands that have been fused and thermally fixed in the heating zone passing through the nozzle when the heating operation is stopped. On the other hand, in the reverse twist welded part, after most of the heat welded part passes through the nozzle, the heating operation is performed by the nozzle, so that the part below the nozzle is bundled by twisting in the direction opposite to the heating direction. In this case, by appropriately setting the yarn supply speed and nozzle rotation and stop cycles,
An appropriate number of heat fused parts and reverse twist fused parts having a length of 10 mm or more can be mixed.The reverse twist fused part can be used to reverse twist the heated twisted parts without reverse twisting. In order to focus by twisting, the outer diameter ratio of the heat fused part and the reverse twist fused part is set to 1.
．． It can be made as small as 30 or less.

FIG. 5 is a process schematic diagram showing an example of the manufacturing process of the specially processed yarn of the present invention, in which the yarn (T) pulled out from the thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn pirn α0 is heated through the feed roller 0]). It is sent into the zone and the nozzle i
It is twisted intermittently by v aa, heat-set by the first heater Q, sent to the heat-fixing zone via the delivery roller α4), heat-set by the second heat αυ, and then heated by the second delivery roller Ql. Then, it is rolled up into a package QIO by a winding roller αη.

The thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn in the above-mentioned processed yarn of the present invention is a multifilament yarn obtained from polymers such as polyester and polyamide, copolymers thereof, blend polymers, etc., and mixtures of these same or different types of multifilament yarns are used. It also includes filaments.

<Example> Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples.

Polyester filament yarn 15 od/72f was passed through an intermittent overflow false twisting process using a compressed air nozzle, and subjected to intermittent false twisting under the processing conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain the special processed yarn of the present invention. I got it.

The following is a margin: Table 1 The obtained special processed yarn of the present invention has an average length of 65 m in the heat-fused portion and the reverse twist-fused portion, as shown in Table 2.
m, extremely long at 84 mm, and the heat welded part and reverse twist welded part of 100 mm or more are 424 pieces/room1as/
100m are mixed, and the ratio of heat-fused parts is 43.6%.
and 3096 or more.

In addition, the apparent outer diameter ratio of the heat fused part and the reverse twist fused part is 1.
．． 21, which was as low as 1.30 or less.

Table 2 When the specially processed yarn of the present invention was woven into a plain weave structure at a warp density of 70 yarns/inch and a weft yarn density of 78 yarns/inch, a fabric exhibiting a hemp-like texture and a natural kasuri-like appearance was obtained. No grain-like wrinkles were observed in this fabric either after dyeing or during ironing during sewing.

<Effects of the Invention> As described above, the specially processed yarn of the present invention has extremely long heat-fused parts, reverse twist-fused parts, and lengths compared to conventional false-twisted fusible yarns, and Since the ratio of the cloth part is large, the fabric obtained from the specially processed yarn of the present invention has a linen-like texture,
It has a natural scab-like appearance.

In addition, the specially processed yarn of the present invention has a small apparent outer diameter ratio of 1.30 or less between the heat-fused part and the reverse-twisted part, and the reverse-twisted part is added with false twist crimp. The fact that they are bundled by reverse twisting and the difference in form between the heat-fused part and the reverse-twisted part is small, makes it possible to make woven or knitted fabrics that require ironing not only during dyeing but also during sewing. There is little occurrence of giblet-like grains during processing.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an example of the specially processed yarn of the present invention, FIG. 2 is a schematic side view showing another example of the specially processed yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 3 is a heat-fused portion of the specially processed yarn of the present invention. FIG. 4 is a schematic cross-sectional view of the reverse twist fusion part of the specially processed yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 5 is a schematic process diagram showing an example of the method for producing the specially processed yarn of the present invention. (1)... Heat fused part, (2)... Reverse twist fused part,
(3)...Non-twisted part, αQ...Pun, 0])...
・Feed roller, (2)...first heater, 03
... Noz #, 'Q4... Delivery roller, QG
...Second heater, αQ...Second delivery roller, αη...Take-up roller, 0 barrel...Package, (g)...Yarn. Patent applicant: Unitika Co., Ltd.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A fused yarn made of thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn intermittently twisted at a temperature above the softening point and below the melting point, wherein the twisted and fused portion is formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. and reverse twisted fused parts alternately, and the twisted fused parts and reverse twisted fused parts each having a length of 100 mm or more coexist at 10 pieces/100 m or more, and the ratio of the twisted fused parts of the yarn 30% or more, and the apparent outer diameter ratio of the twisted fused part and the reverse twisted fused part is 1.30 or less. However, the ratio of twisted and fused parts (goods) = - X 1 0 0
A+B+C A: Length of twisted fused part (mm) B: Length of reverse twisted fused part (mm) C: Length of non-twisted part (mm)