JPS60259606A - Temporary fastening method in sewing garments - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Field of Industrial Application This invention relates to a temporary fixing method for garment sewing, and more particularly to a temporary fixing method using an adhesive mainly composed of an addition reaction type liquid silicone polymer.

Technical Background In the sewing process for clothing, especially for heavy clothing such as suits, coats, jackets, etc., which consists of three layers: outer material, lining material, or interlining material, and the outer layer, the materials used for temporary fixing work are different. To prevent misalignment and imbalance when sewing things,
This work is also necessary for the purpose of inserting the necessary amount of sills in the necessary places to create a three-dimensional finish. Also, in general sewing, temporary fixing is necessary when working with thin fabrics to prevent chipping and misalignment of the pattern.

Conventional technology In general, when temporarily sewing fabrics together, a jumping sewing machine is used, and when doing so, temporary sewing at three-dimensional points such as interlining and seaming is done by adjusting the difference between the inner and outer seams. In addition, in order to create a space in the fabric to prevent the outer fabric from tangling, the fabric must be stretched and stretched while the sewing machine is running, and the fabric must be delicately manipulated with the hands. The technique requires experience and skill on the part of the workers, and as a result, quality and production tend to be unstable.In addition, the process of interlining is the work of securing the wool core and front body, which are the foundation of the garment. The front body is particularly difficult to work on because it has a three-dimensional shape due to the volume of the chest and the tension of the waist, and the finished product after the centering process is such that there is no excess left on the front body or the grain of the ground is straight. This is determined by the size of the waist, etc., and it also requires advanced techniques such as having to curl inward to naturally wrap around the body in accordance with the volume of the chest and waist. There are problems. In addition, as a method for temporarily fixing the interlining without using a sewing machine, one side of the interlining can be laminated with a polyvinyl acetal film that is heat-softening and easily soluble in cold water, or sprayed with resin powder moistened with water. A polyvinyl acetal resin layer is provided by attaching the polyvinyl acetal resin layer, the interlining is applied to the outer material and thermally bonded through the resin layer, and then the periphery of the adhesive piece is sewn with a sewing machine, and the resin layer is removed by washing with water. A method is known in which the interlining and outer material are separated (see Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 119-2/!;3!;), but such a known method involves washing the polyvinyl acetal resin layer with water. Therefore, when applied to sewn products made mainly of wool, such as men's clothing, washing with water shrinks the wool-containing outer material and interlining, resulting in a hard texture. Purpose of the Invention In view of the above-mentioned current situation, the present invention provides a method for achieving uniform quality by making it possible to carry out mechanical processing that enables partial automation and unmanned operation of frog ginseng without requiring skilled manual labor. The objective was to develop a temporary fixing method that would improve quality and production efficiency so that stable products could be produced.

Structure of the Invention The present invention is characterized in that one or more cloths to be joined are set on a plywood board via an adhesive mainly composed of an addition-reactive liquid silicone polymer, and then heated and pressurized. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The structure of the present invention, which provides a temporary fixing method for sewing clothes, will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

The materials used in this invention, such as the outer material, lining material, interlining material, etc., are not particularly limited in any way, and may include natural fibers such as cotton, linen, wool, cashmere, rayon, and acetate. A wide range of fabrics can be mentioned, such as recycled or semi-synthetic fibers, or synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, and acrylic, either alone or in combination.

In addition, the addition-reactive liquid silicone polymer used in the adhesive is a silicone polymer whose molecular weight can be increased by addition reaction, and is a polysiloxane compound that can be thermally cured in the presence of a curing agent. be.

Such polysiloxane compounds include, for example, polyalkylalkenylsiloxane (alkyl is C3 to C12, and alkyl may be substituted with halogen or the like,
Alknyl is C4~0. t), polyphenylalkenylsiloxane (phenyl may be substituted with alkyl, halogen, etc., and alkenyl is C3 to C12), polyalkylhydrogensiloxane (alkyl is 08 to
C4, and alkyl may be substituted with halogen, etc.), polyphenyl hydrogen siloxane (phenyl may be substituted with alkyl, halogen, etc.), and preferably polyalkylalkenylsiloxane. There are mixtures of polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes, mixtures of polyalkylalkenylsiloxanes and polyphenylhydrogensiloxanes, mixtures of polyphenylalkenylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes, and mixtures of polyphenylalkenylsiloxanes and polyphenylhydrogensiloxanes.

As a hardening agent! , 41-dichlorobenzoyl peroxide, 0-methylbenzoyl peroxide, P-
Chlorobenzoyl peroxide, 0-chlorobenzoyl peroxide, lauroyl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, bis-3,! ;,k-)limethylhexanoyl peroxide, dicumyl peroxide, /,/-di-t-butylperoxy-3,3,S-
) Limethylcyclohexane, t-butyl-oxy-coethylhexanoate, t-butyl/f-oxypivalate, bis(p-t-butylcyclohexyl)
Organic peroxides such as peroxydicarbonate, methyl ethyl ketone peroxide, platinum compounds, rhodium compounds, baradium compounds, and others/species or two or more types can be used, but a combination of organic peroxides and platinum compounds is preferable. , and as organic peroxides,
Tadichlorobenzoyl peroxide is preferred, and the proportion of the organic peroxide is usually 7 to 30 parts by weight, preferably j-20 parts by weight, based on ioo parts by weight of the silicone polymer.

As antistatic agents, ionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants are used, specifically fatty acid surfactants, alkyl sulfates, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate (anionic), Octadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecylt"' +Jj-f
) L'A, 工=tsu,,. , 5. Oyaa, polyoxyethylene dodecylamine, alkyoylaminopropyl dimethyl co-hydroxylethyl ammonium salt inpropatol solution (more than cationic), polyoxyethylene stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene Examples include octylphenol ether, fatty acid jetanolamide (nonionic), dimethylalkyl betaine (ampholytic), etc.The proportion of such antistatic agents used is usually 0.000 parts by weight per 100 parts by weight of the silicone polymer. 0/-10%, preferably 0.7 to j parts by weight.

The reason for adding an antistatic agent is that when such an adhesive is applied to cloth using a coating machine, which will be described later, it can be easily discharged in the form of threads or lines from the nozzle opening of the coating machine, which is convenient for the work.

Examples of fillers include anhydrous or hydrous silicon dioxide, calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, magnesium carbonate, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, clay, alumina, talc, carbon black, and others. ,
1□ Yotsu'J-'-7:i Acrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, l,3-butylene glycol diacrylate,
3-butylene glycol dimethacrylate), /4
-butylene glycol diacrylate), /, &-butylene glycol dimethacrylate, /, A-hexane glycol diacrylate), /IA-hexane glycol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol diacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate ,
Dipropylene glycol diacrylate, dipropylene glycol dimethacrylate, polypropylene glycol diacrylate, polypropylene glycol dimethacrylate, Kotsu-monobis(guacryloxyjethoxyphenyl)propane, Kotsu-monobis(gumethacryloxydiethoxyphenyl) ) propane, co-bis(l-acryloxypropyldiphenyl)propane, co-bis(ll-methacryloxypropyldiphenyl)propane, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate,
Other vinyl monomers such as polyfunctional acrylate monomers and polyfunctional methacrylate monomers can be mentioned, and the proportion thereof is usually 0 to 10 parts by weight in 700 parts by weight of the silicone polymer. It is.

The viscosity and other properties of the resulting adhesive, fluidity during heat bonding, other properties, elasticity, hardness, and other properties after bonding are changed and adjusted according to the types and proportions of the above additives. be able to. The viscosity of the adhesive is usually / 000- from the viewpoint of coating processability and prevention of seepage.
up to 000,00θQp, preferably ioo, ooo N
, 2. ooo, ooo cp.

In this invention, the adhesive can be applied to cloth using a method such as applying it with a spatula or using a coating machine, but in terms of workability, it is preferable to apply it using a coating machine. , the adhesive is continuously or discontinuously discharged onto the cloth in small amounts. Glue is usually applied on the fabric at 0.
/~70 mm width, preferably 0.3~3 mm thick and usually 0.0/~2 mm wide, preferably 0.0 A;
It is applied in the form of one or more lines, broken lines, or dots with a width of ~00 g mm.

The preferred diameter of the nozzle used in the coating machine is 0.2
~ / mm, and the preferred wall thickness of the nozzle tip is o, i ~
0. This is the normal configuration of gmrtr.

Also, if the diameter of the nozzle is less than 0.2 mm, the adhesive will easily clog, and if it exceeds / 1lWlli+, the adhesive will easily seep into the outer surface of the fabric.
．． If the value is less than θ0gmn, there will be problems with the nozzle strength, and if the value exceeds θ0gmn, the adhesive will adhere to the outlet of the nozzle tip and the adhesive will not be able to be discharged in the form of a line or string. Usually, a heating press machine such as a press machine or an iron is used, but in this invention, the conditions for heating pressurization, that is, the heating temperature are usually 4O-200i1'c x preferably /
00- / j Q℃, pressure is usually ゛θ, Q/~, 2
/c9/crtr', preferably 0.03 to 0. ! ;
kg/cm", the heating and pressing time is usually 7 to 600 seconds, preferably 5 to 10 seconds, and steam (usually at a temperature of /10 to /30°C) is applied from the contact surface between the heat suppressor and the cloth. You can also make it come out.

Below, the method of the present invention will be explained in accordance with the attached drawings when it is applied to interlining clothes, sewing clothes, tacking the ground sewing of clothes, etc., but the present invention is not limited thereto. 0 Example First, to explain the first example of clothing lining, as shown in FIG. An adhesive/based on the adhesive is applied using a suitable applicator. Next, the front body part and the hair core part are set on the lower trowel 3 of the press machine, which becomes plywood. It is preferable for the pressing machine to have a bulging trowel surface that corresponds to the chest and waist, and the depth of the concave surface is preferably 1-1IcrrL, so that the front body, which has been finished with pocket processing, will naturally fit into one side of the trowel, and the excess will be removed. A trowel surface with a streamlined shape without wrinkles is preferred (Figure λ, Figure 3). In this method, the adhesive is first applied to the hair core, but the adhesive may be applied to the front body if necessary.

In particular, as shown in FIG. 2, set the front body piece on the lower trowel 3 with the ground level S aligned with points A and B. When setting, look down at the ground! For example, it is preferable to provide phototubes at points A and B to align the points A and B. Next, as shown in FIG. 3, the hair core coated with adhesive is set in a predetermined position on top of the set front body piece. At this time, in order to efficiently set the hair core, it is preferable to mark the front body and the hair core in advance. In this way, once the front body part and the hair core are set in the predetermined positions on the lower iron 3 of the press, the front body and the hair core are heated by the press under the heating and pressurizing conditions described above. Apply pressure. With this heating and pressure, the adhesive l
With this, the hair core and the front body are suitably joined. Next, the fabric is sewn as usual, and after the fabric is sewn, the wool core y and the front body d'are gently pulled in opposite directions by hand, allowing both to be peeled off without damaging the fabric, and the desired temporary fixing can be achieved successfully. .

Next, to explain the second example of lining clothes, as shown in Fig. An adhesive based on a liquid silicone polymer is appropriately applied by a coating machine. Next, as shown in Fig. 4, place the hair core coated with adhesive at point A on the bottom trowel 3 of the press machine that will become the plywood.
Set B so that the ground level is aligned. When setting, it is preferable to provide, for example, phototubes at points A and B in order to align the eyes of the ground. Furthermore, the front body part is set on the hair core a set on the lower trowel 3, passing through the line of sight of the outer material to points A and B as shown in FIG. In this way, place the hair core on the lower iron 3 of the press machine.
After the front body l is set in a predetermined position, the hair core and the front body l are heated and pressed by the upper iron 7 of the press under the above-mentioned heating and pressing conditions as shown in FIG. This heat and pressure allows the adhesive to suitably join the hair core and the front body part L, and then the ground stitching is performed as usual, and after the ground sewing is completed, the hair core and the front body part are gently moved in the opposite direction by hand. By pulling, both can be peeled off without damaging the fabric, and temporary fixing can be performed suitably.

Next, to explain an example of applying the temporary fixing of the present invention to the sewing of clothes, as shown in Figure 7, as a preparatory work for the sewing of clothes, Backstitch line G, seam allowance to the side, normally Q, / -, 5-關,
Preferably, the above-mentioned adhesive 1 is applied at a position of 0.3 mm to 0.3 cm in a linear or dotted line pattern at appropriate intervals. Set the front body cover coated with adhesive l in this way on a plywood board like a press machine, that is, on the lower trowel 3, and then turn the front body part 1; The points are aligned so that the amount of distortion is applied to the area, and heat and pressure is applied using a heat suppressor such as an iron or a press under the same heat and pressure conditions as described above. By applying heat and pressure in this manner, the front body part and the body part 10 are suitably joined with adhesive, and then ground stitched as usual, and after the ground sewing is completed, a seam allowance is opened with an iron, and at the same time, they are joined with adhesive. The front body part and body part 10 can be easily peeled off by hand.

Next, to explain an example in which the tacking of this invention is applied to tacking the base stitching of clothes, as shown in FIG. sewing line g
Normally 0, / ~ 3, preferably 0.3 ~ on the seam allowance 9 side
=Apply adhesive l in a line or dotted line with appropriate spacing at the position. The parts // coated with the adhesive l in this way are set on a plywood board such as a press, that is, on the lower trowel 3, so that horizontal stripes and puckering do not occur on this as shown in Figure 1O. While matching the points, overlap part l11 with another back fabric that should be sewn, and make the eye opening! Using the upper iron 2 of a heating suppressor such as a gun or a press, heating and pressing are carried out under the same heating and pressing conditions as in the previous example. Parts // and //' are joined with adhesive by such heating and pressure, and then they are sewn together as usual.After the seam is finished, the seam allowance is opened with an iron, and the parts are joined with adhesive at the same time. /L, //' can be easily peeled off by hand. In addition, if the front body is used as part 7, typesetting is used as part//', and if the back is used as part//, the back or typesetting is used as part//', and part l/ is used as typesetting. When both sleeves are used, the lower glaze can be used as one part, and when the front body of the lower garment is used as part/l, the back body of the lower garment can be used as one part.

Effects of the Invention Next, the effects of this invention are listed below.

According to the adhesive used in this invention, compared to permanent adhesives used for conventional fabrics (e.g. adhesives made of heat-fusible resins such as polyester and polyamide), heating temperature and Fabrics can be joined with low pressure, which prevents and reduces damage to fabrics. In addition, the required heating suppression time is short and effective, and the joined parts of the fabric can be easily peeled off, and will not re-adhere even if heated with an iron or the like afterwards. Clothes obtained by the temporary fixing method have a good texture because the interlining or lining has been peeled off from the outer material, and there is no puckering due to the difference in shrinkage on the fault plane between the areas with and without adhesive. Eliminates the dirty ring-like appearance. Puckering occurs with conventional permanent adhesives.

Further, according to the temporary fixing of the present invention, the temporary fixing work using threads is eliminated, so the workability of temporary fixing is improved. For example, if you temporarily fasten with thread, you will need to remove the thread in the subsequent process, but this will waste time and cause the threads on the outer material to tear when the thread is removed. Furthermore, if a coating machine is used to apply the adhesive, the temporary fixing work can be further automated.

Example 1 Clothes were lined under the following conditions in accordance with the clothes liner of Example 1 above. Note that in the table, parts represent parts by weight.

7 */=Liquid silicone polymer A (polymethylvinylsiloxane, viscosity *3 = 1000 cp) This is the value at a shear rate of 'Oci' measured with a Rheometer 6 Rheomatsu 30'' manufactured by Kogyo Co., Ltd.

The wool core and the front body were joined together under the above-mentioned conditions, and then ground stitched. After the ground stitch was completed, the wool core and the front body were gently pulled in opposite directions by hand, and both were peeled off.

Example 2 Clothes were lined under the following conditions in accordance with the clothes liner of the previous example. In addition, in the table, parts represent parts by weight.

*Ri = Liquid silicone polymer C (polymethylvinylsiloxane, viscosity 3θoocp) After finishing the ground stitching, the wool core and the front body were gently pulled in the opposite direction by hand and both were peeled off.

Example 3 In accordance with the above-mentioned example 3, training for making clothes was conducted under the following conditions. In addition, in the table, parts represent parts by weight.

*6=Liquid silicone polymer m (polyphenylvinylsiloxane, viscosity qooocp) Join the front body and the turned body under the above conditions, then ground stitch, and after the ground stitch is finished, open the seam allowance with an iron and simultaneously sew both together. was peeled off.

Example Tei Back core stitching was carried out under the following conditions according to the basic stitching of clothes in the previous example. In addition, in the table, parts represent parts by weight.

*7 = Liquid silicone polymer F' (polytrifluoropropylallyl siloxane, viscosity aooocp) Then, the seam was sewn, and after the seam was finished, the seam allowance was opened with an iron, and both were peeled off at the same time.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Fig. 1 is a schematic plan view of a hair wick used in a wick setting for carrying out the temporary fixing method of the present invention, Fig. 1 is a schematic plan view of a front body used in the same manner set in a press, and Fig. 2
Figure 4 is a schematic plan view of the hair core placed on the front body of the figure, Figure 4 is a schematic plan view of the hair core set in a press in another example of a core holder, and Figure 5 is a schematic plan view of the hair core shown in Figure 4. A schematic plan view with the front body set on top, Figure 6 is a schematic cross-sectional view of the hair core and front body shown in Figure 5 being pressed together, and Figure 7 is a diagram showing when the temporary fixing of this invention is carried out for kimono training. FIG. 3 is a schematic plan view of the front body shown in FIG. 7 set in a press machine and the body part is placed on it, and FIG. 9 is a schematic plan view of the front body shown in FIG. A schematic plan view of one part, the back fabric, set in the press machine, and FIG. 10 is a schematic plan view of another part, the back fabric 1', superimposed on the part of FIG. , l: adhesive, 2: wool core, 3: lower trowel, g: front body, 5: ground line, 6: dowel, 7: upper trowel, za: base seam line, 9: seam allowance, lO: body Return, ii, ii': parts. Patent applicant: Tokyo Men's Apparel Cooperative Japan Synthetic Rubber Co., Ltd. Figure 2? Figure 5 Figure 6 Figure 7 Figure 8 Figure 8 Continuation of page 1 ■Inventor Toshio Teramoto @ Inventor Field 1) Toshio @ Inventor Masahiro Shinkai Inside Japan Synthetic Rubber Co., Ltd., 2-11-24 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku, Tokyo Japan Synthetic Rubber Co., Ltd., 2-11-24 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

Claims (1)

[Claims] A temporary fixing method for garment sewing, characterized by setting fabrics to be joined on plywood using an adhesive mainly composed of an addition-reactive liquid silicone polymer, and applying heat and pressure.