CA1079901A - Shaping interlining for garments - Google Patents

Shaping interlining for garments

Info

Publication number
CA1079901A
CA1079901A CA265,131A CA265131A CA1079901A CA 1079901 A CA1079901 A CA 1079901A CA 265131 A CA265131 A CA 265131A CA 1079901 A CA1079901 A CA 1079901A
Authority
CA
Canada
Prior art keywords
article
interlining
woven fabric
bonding agent
prefixed
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
CA265,131A
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Gerhard Stegmann
Bohuslav Tecl
Erich Fahrbach
Jurgen Knoke
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Carl Freudenberg KG
Original Assignee
Carl Freudenberg KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Carl Freudenberg KG filed Critical Carl Freudenberg KG
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of CA1079901A publication Critical patent/CA1079901A/en
Expired legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M23/00Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
    • D06M23/14Processes for the fixation or treatment of textile materials in three-dimensional forms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02Linings
    • A41D27/06Stiffening-pieces
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/693Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural or synthetic rubber, or derivatives thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M17/00Producing multi-layer textile fabrics

Abstract

ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE
An article comprising an interlining and chest piece combination for textile cloths to be made into wearing apparel, particularly suits, coats and jackets which can be double-fixed to the cloth in the chest and revers or lapel zones which is drycleaning solvent resistant, dimensionally stable and which may be attached to the cloth by the application of heat such as in an electropress and which is formable to the required shape in a steam press.
The article comprises a resilient non-woven fabric of staple and/or continuous fibres which is partially pre-fixed and additionally contains a resilient bonding agent. A thermal adhesive is applied to the surfaces of the article so that it is double-fixable under heat to the cloth.

Description

The invention relates to a resilient interlining - chest piece combination for textile cloths which is steam press formable, dryclean reslstant and dimensionally stable.
It is known to use reinforcing shaping interlining materials consist-ing of woven or non-woven fabrics in suits, coats and jackets. In jackets, the dimensional stability of the chest area is usually reinforced by means of an additional chest piece. The chest piece has to be sewn in, and this is a drawback in a field in which interlining materials with heat effected adhesives are in common use as a labour-reducing expedient. Such interlining materials are merely ironed into place using a fixing press. The traditional sewn chest piece has other important disadvantages. The working process on the front part of the finished clothing is relatively difficult and thus expensive. Complications arise from difficulties of fashioning which render very exact work necessary.
Attempts have been made to operate without the sewable chest piece and to replace it by a fixable interlining with several sections in which the top part is reinforced and is separated from the lighter, textile-soft lower section by means of a transition region. Such one piece interlining materials are commercially available. Although they have advantages over the mere sewn-on chest piece, they still are not fully satisfactory.
Cutting must always be made in the weft direction or in the transverse direction, and as result large unusable remnants are produced. In the lapel area, expensive reverse cutting is necessary and the transition at the edge of the lapel area leads to an unsmooth lapel in the article.
Moreover, it is very difficult to provide s~ufficient shapability to the top part so that working of the chest piece is possible without having an unsmooth surface. As a result, multiple section interlinings with an additional chest piece or an additional chest piece cover have been introduced.
Mutually compatible woven interlining materials with an additional chest piece have been offered with which by means of special lenos, fixing - 1 - ~

107~9~1 of interlining and chest piece to a number of fabrics has been made possible. This double-adhering or fixing, is intended to be acheived by lroning the interllning material onto a cloth and at the same time or fiub-sequently fixing the chest piece in the chest revers or lapel zone which will thereby not loosen during wear or drycleaning. It has, however, transpired that when using most interlining materials and chest pieces, blisters result during wear and drycleaning, because of loosening of the adhesive in the double fixing sectors,which does not occur in the identical interlining material if single fixed. The use of special lenos at least makes it possible that some cloths can be double fixed without subsequent damage.
Difflculties result, however, when the thermal shrinkages of the cloth and the interlining material are not comparable. This is the case with many fabrics. Therefore, frequent blistering is observed through wear and dry-cleaning.
It might be thought that nonwoven fabrics would not tend to loosening of adheslve and blistering because of their higher e1ongation and - more resilient behavior even in differential shrinkage between interlining and cloth. Thus nonwoven fabric should enable fabrics with a different shrinkage to be double-fixable. In the past, however, this has not been possible to achieve for other reasons or has led to unsuitable products.
When soft, textile interlining materials and/or similar chest piece materials bonded over the whole surface with bonding agent are double fixed to cloth, splitting occurs in the nonwoven fabric during drycleaning, even when the same single fixed ironed-on nonwoven fabric does not show splitting after repeated drycleaning. The double-fixing zone, however, has a non-textile- and plywood-like appearance. A similarly negative picture results when,instead of using a bonding agent,the whole surface is adhered with a bonding fiber which is itself more dryclean resistant than the bonding a~ent. Here, too, a similar effect occurs. If an uncalendered nonwoven fabric with bonding fiber bond is used, the danger of splitting is still high. If, however, the nonwoven fabric is calendered, the double-fixed area is too plywood~like and non-textile.
The present disclosure meets these problems in providing a double laminate for fabrics consisting of a chest piece and interlinlng materlal which is both resilient, dryclean resistant and formable in a steam press and which also retains its shape during wear and drycleaning. Formability defines the deformation which takes place during the ironing into shape of the chest piece on the forming press. The chest piece deforms to desired shape as a result of the form predetermined by the moulding insert or model in the press. Thus, the consistency of shape of each front part of the finished garment is achieved.
It has now been discovered that such an article best comprises an interlining - chest piece combination for cloths in which both the interlin-ing material and the chest piece consist of a resilient, partially prefixed (and also resilient bonding agent containing) nonwoven fabric of staple and/or endless fibers which is provided with a suitable fusible adhesive, whereby the interlining - chest piece combination is double-fixable and deformable in a steam press,is drycleaning solvent resistant, and is stable in shape.
The interlining can be fixed to the area to which it is to be attached with an electro press, whereas the chest piece on which an adhesive is applied in a pattern is formable and fixable with the aid of a steam heated forming press. Thus a resilient, steam press formable and drycleaning resistant, blister-free three-layer laminate of interlining, chest piece and cloth results. The interlining - chest piece combination can be used with essentially all known types of cloth.
The fixing of the front part to the interlining and the subsequent further treatment is effected in the usual known manner. From this point the method of manufacture differs, however. The new chest piece is cut out in accordance with the model but it is prepared without tucks and is laid onto the front part press. During the ironing into shape, the chest piece fixing takes place, at the same time the chest piece deforms without tension even : 107990~

in the shaping which is predetermlned by both the model and the press. Thus the complete uniformity of each front part in breast and facing is guaranteed.
The special preparation of the chest piece, for instance closing tucks, sewing on bands or the like and then placing the chest piece is not necessary.
Neither a chest piece covering nor shoulder supports nor an additional lapel section are necessary in the treatment. The interlining does not have to be cut in the lapel area as it is fixed right up to the edge.
The interlining - chest piece combination can be produced of differ-ent materials in accordance with the intended use. Suitable in this case are the following nonwoven fabrics:
a) Nonwoven fabrics, which contain drycleaning compound resistant bonding fibers, and partially heat welded by calendering in point-, rod- or rhombic shapes.
b) Nclded fiber nonwovcn fabrics oolvcnt weldcd by partial dissolution of the fibres with, for instance, polyacrylonitrile with tetramethylsulfoxide, as a printing paste, for example, containing the solvent.
c) Nonwoven fabrics mechanically bonded, such as by needling.
d) Partial binder reinforced nonwoven fabrics, the bonding agent being printed or sprayed. The bonding agent should have a high resistance to drycleaning solvents. Polyurethane is particularly suitable.
In addition to the above-described prefixing, the nonwoven fabrics are also bonded with a resilient bonding agent. Suitably this subsequent fixing is carried out by separate discrete application of the resilient bonding agent. Suitable resilient bonding agents are crosslinkable poly-acrylicacid esters, budadiene acrylonitrile or budadiene styrene copolymeri-sates and appropriate polyurethanes.
In accordance with onc aspcct of the invention, there is provided a combined interlining-chest piece for attachment to cloth which comprises;
an interlining comprising an at least partially prefixed piece of non-woven fabric having a first face for attachment to said cloth, ~",,~J

a chest piece integral with said interlining and nlso comprising an at least partially prefixed non-woven fabric piece and having a second face for attachment to said cloth, said interlining and said chest piece being integrally attached together on respective sides opposite to said first and second faces, said non-woven fabric being selected from staple and continuous fibres, a resilient bonding agent in said interlining and said chest piece fixing said respective non-woven fabric, and a thermal adhesive on said first and second faces for thermally adhering said combined interlining-chest piece to said cloth.
In one preferred embodiment, the prefixed non-woven fabrics are provided with a thickened latex printing paste. They can additionally be dyed with pigments. The printing pastes may be printed through the nonwoven I

~ -4a-0~9901 fabric and thus penetrate through the entire nonwoven fabric, or only pene-trate partially into the interior of the material. Both methods are satis-factory.
In another embodiment a prefixed nonwoven fabric is subsequently fixed by spraying its surface with a resilient bonding agent. In this instance it is desirable that the bonding agent not penetrate deeper into the fabric than about 1/3 or 1/2 of the thickness. This results in part of the fabric being more or less unbonded and thus freely movable portions remain in the fabric cross section. Particularly with only slightly prefixed nonwovens it may be suitable instead of the discrete application of the bonding agent to effect impregnation or soaking with the resilient binder The content of dry bonding agent in this case approximates 5 to 20% of the fiber weight.
It is important that the nonwoven fabrics which are suggested for the production of the interlining - chest piece combinations be both pre-fixed and subsequently fixed with the resilient bonding agent. If nonwoven fabrics without additional resilient bonding agent are employed, for the production of interlining - chest piece combinations as here defined, the elasticity is unsatisfactory and the shape retaining ability insufficient.
Although all the described combinations of prefixing and binder application are possible both for the interlining material and for the chest piece, preneedled nonwoven fabrics are preferably suited only for the chest piece: Their unsmooth surface and the high specific volume renders them less suitable as interlining material. By suitable choice of weights, fiber fineness and amounts of bonding agent, nonwoven fabrics can be adapted for the interlining and for the chest piece as required. It should be noted that the interlining should have less shaping ability but a smoother surface than the chest piece. This can be achieved by means of a lower weight of the fiber and a finer fiber mix, whereas the chest piece requires higher weights and fibers that are as highly crimped as possible with a somewhat higher fibre titer, for instance 3 to 6 dtex.

10799~

In many instances, it is suitable that the chest piece be flattened at the edges 30 that no abrupt changes with resultant obvious marking is produced in the finished cloth.

Claims (13)

THE EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION IN WHICH AN EXCLUSIVE PROPERTY
OR PRIVILEGE IS CLAIMED ARE DEFINED AS FOLLOWS:
1. A combined interlining-chest piece for attachment to cloth which comprises;
an interlining comprising an at least partially prefixed piece of non-woven fabric having a first face for attachment to said cloth, a chest piece integral with said interlining and also comprising an at least partially prefixed non-woven fabric piece and having a second face for attachment to said cloth, said interlining and said chest piece being integrally attached together on respective sides opposite to said first and second faces, said non-woven fabric being selected from staple and continuous fibres, a resilient bonding agent in said interlining and said chest piece fixing said respective non-woven fabric, and a thermal adhesive on said first and second faces for thermally adhering said combined interlining-chest piece to said cloth.
2. An article as defined in claim 1, the non-woven fabric having been prefixed by point bonding.
3. An article as defined in claim 1 or 2, the adhesive having been applied on the respective faces of the prefixed non-woven fabric, and the bonding agent having been applied to said respective opposite sides.
4. An article as defined in claim 1 or 2, the non-woven fabric containing drycleaning solvent resistant bonding fibres, said bonding fibres having been solvent welded to effect the prefixing.
5. An article as defined in claim 1 or 2, the non-woven fabric being mechanically prefixed.
6. An article as defined in claim 1, the bonding agent having been applied discretely non-uniformly to said prefixed non-woven fabric.
7. An article as defined in claim 6, the resilient bonding agent having been applied to the prefixed non-woven fabric as a print of water suspended latex paste.
8. An article as defined in claim 6, the resilient bonding agent having been applied to the prefixed non-woven fabric by means of spraying.
9. An article as defined in claim 6, 7 or 8, the resilient bonding agent having been applied as a polyurethane latex.
10. An article as defined in claim 6, 7 or 8, the resilient bonding agent having been applied as a latex of cross-linkable or vulcanizable butadiene-copolymerisate.
11. An article as defined in claim 6, 7 or 8, the resilient bonding agent having been applied as a latex of cross-linkable soft polyacrylic ester copolymerisate.
12. An article as defined in claim 1, 2 or 6, being united to a cloth over its whole surface and deformed to chosen shape in an electro press.
13. An article as defined in claim 1, 2 or 6, having a thinned edge zone of about 1 to 10 cm width and being about 30 to 70% of the weight per unit area of the remaining central zone of the article.
CA265,131A 1975-11-08 1976-11-08 Shaping interlining for garments Expired CA1079901A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE2550253A DE2550253C2 (en) 1975-11-08 1975-11-08 Shaping insert combination for items of clothing

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
CA1079901A true CA1079901A (en) 1980-06-24

Family

ID=5961279

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
CA265,131A Expired CA1079901A (en) 1975-11-08 1976-11-08 Shaping interlining for garments

Country Status (13)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS5260741A (en)
AR (1) AR219698A1 (en)
AT (1) AT360461B (en)
AU (1) AU508683B2 (en)
CA (1) CA1079901A (en)
DE (1) DE2550253C2 (en)
ES (1) ES452305A1 (en)
FR (1) FR2330341A1 (en)
GB (1) GB1556504A (en)
IT (1) IT1068225B (en)
NL (1) NL182363C (en)
SE (1) SE428706B (en)
ZA (1) ZA765325B (en)

Families Citing this family (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3038664C2 (en) * 1980-10-13 1984-04-05 Fa. Carl Freudenberg, 6940 Weinheim Iron-on interlining nonwoven
JPS57199874A (en) * 1981-05-28 1982-12-07 Japan Vilene Co Ltd Adhesive core fabric
GB2227500A (en) * 1988-11-11 1990-08-01 John Cotton Flame retardant felt
US5063101A (en) * 1988-12-23 1991-11-05 Freudenberg Nonwovens Limited Partnership Interlining
DE102005025550A1 (en) * 2005-06-01 2006-12-07 Carl Freudenberg Kg Nonwoven fabric fixable insert for use in the textile industry

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE7045166U (en) * 1972-02-24 Kufner Textilwerke Kg Fabric web for the production of stiffening inserts for items of clothing and stiffening inserts made with this fabric web
GB775301A (en) * 1953-03-05 1957-05-22 Freudenberg Carl Kg Improvements in or relating to garments with interlinings
DE1819307U (en) * 1960-07-15 1960-10-13 Freudenberg Carl Fa REINFORCEMENT INSERT FOR OVERWEAR.
NL274583A (en) * 1961-02-10
DE1460001A1 (en) * 1963-05-04 1969-03-27 Josef Adolf Kufner Rosshaarsto Full insert for items of clothing
DE2037110C3 (en) * 1969-11-06 1978-11-30 Fa. Carl Freudenberg, 6940 Weinheim Process for the production of soft, elastic, iron-on interlinings
NL7306618A (en) * 1972-05-13 1973-11-15

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE2550253C2 (en) 1985-05-09
SE428706B (en) 1983-07-18
FR2330341A1 (en) 1977-06-03
AT360461B (en) 1981-01-12
ZA765325B (en) 1978-04-26
IT1068225B (en) 1985-03-21
ATA821776A (en) 1980-06-15
AU1866176A (en) 1978-04-20
NL182363B (en) 1987-10-01
SE7612327L (en) 1977-05-09
NL182363C (en) 1988-03-01
JPS5260741A (en) 1977-05-19
AU508683B2 (en) 1980-03-27
JPS6113001B2 (en) 1986-04-11
ES452305A1 (en) 1977-09-16
GB1556504A (en) 1979-11-28
NL7611482A (en) 1977-05-10
FR2330341B1 (en) 1981-08-21
DE2550253A1 (en) 1977-05-26
AR219698A1 (en) 1980-09-15

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