KR820000982B1 - Shape-retaining interlining assembly for clothing - Google Patents

Abstract

A shape-retaining, drycleaning resistant interlining, suitable for the chest section of a jacket, is claimed. It comprises two nonwoven fibrous layers which have been prestablized by spot bonding and/or needling. Each layer is further bonded by printing or spraying one surface with a resilient binder. The other surface is printed with a fusible adhesive.

Description

Method of manufacturing the cardiac thorax member assembly

The present invention relates to a combination of an elastic wick for clothing and a chest member that can be deformed by a steam press and is resistant to dry cleaning and has a dimension stability.

It is known to use a reinforcing wick made of woven or nonwoven fabric when forming coats or jackets.

For this reason, in general, the chest member is additionally reinforced to the chest in order to improve the dimensional stability.

In this method, there is a drawback that the chest member must be sealed even if it is a good heat-bonding wick that can be ironed as a fixed press without being attached continuously.

Chest members and wicks, which can be deformed with a steam press and stuck in two layers, have not been of satisfactory quality to date. And the conventional chest member to be sealed had a large defect. Therefore, the work process in the first half is relatively difficult because of the high cost of sewing the chest member.

In addition, more complex problems are caused by the difficulty of fashion, which requires very accurate work when sealing the chest member. It has already been attempted to replace the chest member with several parts that can be worked or fixed without sealing, with the upper part being reinforced and superimposed on the lower part of the soft fabric by the transition part.

Such integral wicks are commercially useful. While these have advantages over only sealing the chest members, there are also other drawbacks. Since weaving must always be cut in the weft or transverse direction, this leaves a large amount of unusable waste.

In the flip-up part, the cutting cost needs to be expensive, and the transition in the folding part makes the fabric part to which it is fixed rough. Moreover, it is difficult to give enough adhesion to the top to finally get the clothes of the smooth product. Therefore, the wick has been made of several pieces of additional thoracic member or additional thoracic member carvers.

It has become possible to double bond the wick and the chest member to many fabrics, and the fabric wick material with the additional chest member has been provided as a special lino fabric.

Ironing the wick onto the fabric may result in a double bond and a thoracic member attached to the chest piece at the same time or later to prevent loosening during wear or dry cleaning.

However, when using the wick and the chest member, the adhesive of the double joining part is detached during wear or dry cleaning, resulting in a blister, which does not occur in the fixed part of the individual inserted cores, but only in the double joining part. Occurs.

Special linojik allows two pieces of the fabric to be joined later without being damaged. However, in this case, if the heat shrinkage of the fabric and the wick is different, difficulties arise for the majority of fabrics. Therefore, blisters appear when worn or dry cleaned.

If the nonwoven fabric has a different shrinkage between the wick and the fabric, the adhesive will not fall off or blister due to the high stretching force and elasticity, so that nonwoven fabric can double bond even with the fabric having a different shrinkage. However, the double joining pieces have a plywood-like appearance. Instead of the binder, it is more resistant to dry cleaning than the binder, and thus results in a similar result as when bonded to the front by a binding fiber which is better resistant to dry cleaning.

Here too, non-calendered non-woven fabrics have a similar effect, with a greater risk of bursting. However, when the nonwoven fabric is calendered, the double bond part becomes plywood again.

It is an object of the present invention to improve the double layer for fabrics that are made of a chest member and a wick and are resistant to elasticity and dry cleaning, deformable with a steam press and maintained in shape during wear or dry cleaning.

Deformability in this case relates to the deformation that occurs when ironing the molding press. Thus, the chest member is deformed into a predetermined mold by the mold of the press.

The above object can be achieved with a wick-thoracic member combination consisting of staples or endless filaments and an elastic binder so that the wick-thoracic member combination can be deformed to steam cleaning as well as dry cleaning and shape stability and double bonded. Do.

The entire insertion core is fixed to the planar fabric by an electro press, and the chest member is molded and fixed by a steam heating molding press in accordance with the adhesive method.

Thus, a three-layer laminate is obtained which is elastic, deformable by steam presses and is durable and blister-free in the seam, lining and fabric when worn or dry cleaned.

In this case, the wick-thoracic member combination can be used for all types of textiles. The fixing of the whole wick and the whole piece and the processing thereof are carried out by pressing the whole piece in a conventional manner. The method is different from this point.

The lining of the present invention is cut according to the mold but it is prepared without darts and placed on the whole piece press. The chest member is fixed during pressing to achieve the required shape, and at the same time the chest member is deformed into a predetermined shape by the mold and the press.

Thus, complete uniformity of each piece and all pieces of the lining is ensured.

For example, there is no need for special preparation to seal the closed dart, band or similar and then to position the chest member. Lining covers, shoulder supports, or additional supports that are folded back are not necessary for processing and the core material is secured to the shear so that it is not necessary to cut at the folded back.

Depending on the desired state of use, the core-thoracic member combination can be made of other materials.

In this case, the nonwoven fabric described next is suitable.

a) a nonwoven fabric which is partially thermally welded into a point rod or lozenge by calendering and also comprises a dry cleaning resistant binder.

b) Non-woven fabrics of partially bonded fibers produced by partial dissolution, ie polyacrylonitrile fibers bonded with tetramethylene sulfoxide in, for example, printing dyes.

c) A fibrous nonwoven, mechanically fixed in advance by, for example, needling.

d) fibrous nonwoven fabrics which make the binder highly resistant to solvents of dry cleaning, for example by means of conventional binder printing or partial binder reinforcement by spraying, polyurethane for this purpose is proposed. It is becoming.

It is essential that the nonwoven fabric is bonded with the elastic binder by applying fixation in advance as described above.

This subsequent bonding operation is done discontinuously with the elastic binder.

Particularly crosslinked polyacrylic acid esters, butadiene, acrylonitrile and butadiene, styrol, copolymers and suitable polyurethanes have been proposed as elastic binders.

The elastic binder is in the form of a thick layer of print dye according to the above method for pre-fixed nonwovens. It may also be dyed like a pigment.

In this case, it is not very important whether the print material is printed through the nonwoven fabric and whether it penetrates the entire nonwoven fabric or only partially inside the nonwoven fabric.

Another preferred embodiment is made from a pre-fixed nonwoven fabric, which is preferably fixed as the elastic binder is sprayed onto the surface so that the binder penetrates up to about one third or one half of the nonwoven fabric. Thus, freely movable portions of smaller or larger non-binding agents remain in the cross section of the nonwoven. Particularly in the case of finely immobilized nonwovens it is appropriate to impregnation or soak the elastic binder instead of discontinuous application of the binder. In this case, the content of the dry binder is about 5-20% of the fiber weight.

In the present invention, it is essential that all of the nonwoven fabrics for producing the wick-thoracic member combination are fixed in advance and continuously fixed with the elastic binder.

The elasticity of such a nonwoven fabric is not satisfactory when a nonwoven fabric without an elastic binder is applied in the manufacture of the wick-thoracic member combination.

In addition, the phenomenon of holding capacity is not enough, it can be deformed by steam press, and it has the shape stability at the time of wearing or dry cleaning, and it is possible to use such insert seam lining combination even if double fixing without the blister is possible. Nonwovens for manufacture are almost inadequate and always inadequate to maintain.

Nutrient woven fabrics prepared for wicks and chest members with varying weights varying in fiber titer and amount of binder may be used as desired. In this case, the whole wick should have less molding ability and have a smoother surface than the chest member.

This can be achieved by reducing the weight of the fiber nonwovens to lower the fiber titration, and the chest member is a larger weight, for example having a somewhat higher loading of 3-6 dtex and requires as narrowed fibers as possible.

The chest member is flattened at the end, so that there are no external disconnected changes or lines in the final product. Ie a thin end with a width of about 1-10 cm and a weight of 30-70% per unit area in the center.

As noted above, the initial nonwoven is only partially prebonded, unlike the overall adhesion resulting from infiltration such as an adhesive layer.

Partial prebonding becomes a point over about 5-50% of the surface area by needling or the like and not by welding.

Partial prebonding is made by the elastic binder, in whole or in part, on the side of the nonwoven fabric away from the outer fabric to increase its resistance to breakaway, as will be further explained below.

The inner surface of the nonwoven fabric immerses the solvent adhesive 5-40%, preferably 10-30%, down the area of the high temperature press coupler.

Embodiments of the present invention are as follows.

Example 1

Prepare the following layers.

(A) Beige fabric with woven fabric / polyester 55:45, width 150 cm, weight 350 g / m ²

(B) engages per unit area 60g / m ² 3.3 D Tex nylon -66 and 80% 3.3-di-Tex nylon and 20% iron to -6 point the non-woven material bonded portion.

Calculation area is 13-14%, calculated as 86-87%. Low melting nylon-6 fibers are combined. At the joining point, the total space is 1.1 mm in the longitudinal direction and 1.3 mm in the transverse direction, while the nonwoven material is squeezed, while the nonwoven material becomes soft and fluffy due to the unbonded between the 0.70 mm baffle thickness and the free moving fibers.

The nonwoven material on one side also deviates from the polymer point of the butadiene-acrylonitrile N-methylloacrylamide applied independently, which is three-fourths of the thickness of the nonwoven.

The amount of polymer is 10 g / m ² .

The area covered by overprint is about 25-30.

The area occupied by the dot is 0.6m long and 0.8m wide.

Because of the unbonded place, the nonwoven fabric is soft, fluffy and spring-like.

The nonwoven conveys 18 g / m ² of the adhesive polyamide solvent point of the triple bond of nylon -66 / nylon-60 / nylon-6 / nylon-12 with a melting point of 128 ° C. on the opposite side.

(c) Ironed and needled nonwoven chest member of 100% polyester 3.3 detex of 85 g / m ² weight.

The needling density punches 80 times per cm ² .

The nonwoven fabric is 1.5mm thick and printed on one side with butadiene plymer with dots of approximately the same area, as printed on nonwoven wick B, except that the entire baffle spans it.

The adsorption amount of the binding polymer is 20 g / cm ² .

On the reverse side, an adhesive 23 g / m ² of a component similar to the wick according to (B) is printed.

The complete inner material (B) to be ironed is placed as an E-press for 12 seconds at 115 ° C., 350 millibars with butadiene polymer adhesive on the back side of (A), ie, layered.

Fold up the short hand into the discarded area and the full length into the chest.

The chest member is pressed in a molded steam press corresponding to the front end of the garment.

During this process, the chest flexion is stabilized without tension, and the armholes and folded back are shortened in the shape of the steam press.

Since the molding of the combination of the present invention is not strained, blisters do not occur over the entire chest even after wearing or dry cleaning.

Example 2

Compared to Example 1, there is provided a whole insert that is both woven and adhesive and an ironed corresponding chest member fabric according to Example 1.

The fabric chest member to be ironed is formed while being stretched all over the curved area of the chest and is quickly fixed by an adhesive, and is briefly bite at the armhole and the back part by the compression of the fabric.

During wearing, the clothing is pulled out of the armhole area, which is the site of contraction, and the area of folding.

After dry cleaning, stretching across the chest flexure results in delamination of the layer and shows that blisters form as a non-uniformity of the fabric.

Example 3

A staple fiber compound, consisting of 60% nylon 3.3 detex weight and 40% sheath-core nylon 6/66 heterobond fiber, is carded with a web and cross-linked as it is calendered at two rollers at 225 ° C. Smooth, the other rollers are etched at right angles of 0.6 x 0.9 mm and are 1.5 mm apart in the direction of the quantum rollers.

The nonwoven fabric has a weight of 70 g / m ² and a thickness of 0.75 mm. A 15% solids soft polyacrylic ester binder and a 5 g / m ² brown pigment consisting of conventional thinners are printed with roller blades of a steamer printer on the uneven portion of the nonwoven fabric.

The viscosity is 18,000 cps measured at 50 rpm with a Brookwheel viscometer.

The print screen used is usually a 17 mesh screen with an opening of 0.6 mm in diameter.

This is for resistance to attrition.

In the conventional method, standard polyamide, a melt adhesive consisting of 50% nylon-12 and 25% nylon-6, 25% nylon 66, is dispersed and printed on the opposite side.

This was added 22 g / m ² .

This is the front adhesive wick, which transports the soluble nylon adhesive on one side.

Another nonwoven is made by needling a web of 90 100% 3.3 detex polyester fibers with 70 punches / cm ² . Instead of rolling up the material, it prints only with 30% solids in the same way as the front adhesive wick.

Viscosity is measured at 10,000 rpm at 50 rpm with a Brookwheel viscometer. The thickness is 1.5 mm.

A 17 g / cm ² polyacrylic binder is printed on the top of the nonwoven fabric. This nonwoven fabric is printed on the opposite side with 26g / m ² of soluble nylon with the same adhesive as the front adhesive wick. This is an available chest member.

In a 250 g / m ² chute fabric, the soluble nylon surface of the front adhesive wick is located. The carnegieser press dissolves the layer for 12 seconds at a pressure of 350 millibars at 155 ° C. The layer is formed of three-dimensional structures of darts.

On the upper surface of the wick, it is the position of the available nylon surface of the chest member, and the eight-layer combination is pressed in a Hoffman forming press for 8 seconds under pressure and for 5 seconds at 150 ° C. without steam. The bunk layer not only washes or dry cleans, but also retains its shape when worn, and bubbles do not occur during dry cleaning.

Example 4 (comparative)

A non-woven fabric of 3.3-ditex 100% nylon-66 staple fibers is carded, crossed and saturated with the dispersion of fibrous, self-reacting polyacrylic esters.

The solids ratio of the conjugate is 75:25.

Print on one side with the same soluble hybrid polyamide adhesive 22 g / m ² as in Example 3. This is a gluing wick.

A second Detex 100% nylon nonwoven is carded and saturated as in Example 3 except that it crosses and has a total weight of 84 g / m ² . Printed with the same soluble adhesive of 26g / m ² on one side. This is the chest member.

As in Example 3, the fabric of 25 g / m ² is layered with the front adhesive fusible wick and with an available chest member under the same conditions. The touch is soft and fluffy. However, at the time of dry cleaning, a large baffle is peeled off of the nonwoven fabric layer and a three-dimensional shape is lost.

Compared to Example 3, in which the nonwoven fabric used to form the wick is only about 11% bonded, the second heat tolerance is due to the overall bonding in the wick.

Claims (1)

The first side of the nonwoven fabric with the first and second side and elastic adhesive partly printed to within 5-40% of the surface area is placed on the inner side of the outer fabric to be hot pressed to bond both sides, and then the seal is cut. And hot pressing by placing a first surface of the fabric on which the soluble adhesive is printed on the second surface of the nonwoven fabric under the same conditions as the nonwoven fabric.