JPH11335982A - Printing liquid and dyeing - Google Patents

Printing liquid and dyeing

Info

Publication number
JPH11335982A
JPH11335982A JP10149177A JP14917798A JPH11335982A JP H11335982 A JPH11335982 A JP H11335982A JP 10149177 A JP10149177 A JP 10149177A JP 14917798 A JP14917798 A JP 14917798A JP H11335982 A JPH11335982 A JP H11335982A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
water
yarn
dyeing
dye
printing
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
JP10149177A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JP3001503B2 (en
Inventor
Toshihiro Kobayashi
敏弘 小林
Megumi Ueno
恵 植野
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Ibaraki Prefecture
Inoue Shoji KK
Original Assignee
Ibaraki Prefecture
Inoue Shoji KK
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Ibaraki Prefecture, Inoue Shoji KK filed Critical Ibaraki Prefecture
Priority to JP10149177A priority Critical patent/JP3001503B2/en
Publication of JPH11335982A publication Critical patent/JPH11335982A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP3001503B2 publication Critical patent/JP3001503B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a printing liquid capable of simultaneously providing both a multicolored splashed pattern and resist dyeing by mixing a specific heat sensitive polyacrylamide and a fluorine-based water- and oil-repellent agent. SOLUTION: This printing liquid is obtained by blending 4-8 pts.wt. heat- sensitive polyacrylamide derivative capable of performing phase-transition to a hydrophobic state at a high temperature higher than the transition temperature and to a hydrophilic state at a low temperature lower than the transition temperature in the coexistent state with water, e.g. poly-N-isopropylacrylamide, with 15-25 pts.wt. fluorine-based water- and oil-repellent agent, 0.5-2 pts.wt. dye, 0.5-2 pts.wt. crosslinking agent, 0.5-2 pts.wt. reagent and 61-79.5 pts.wt. water. A silk yarn such as a hand-spun yarn is partially printed by using the printing liquid and dried by heating. The dried silk yarn is subjected to ground yarn dyeing of the whole yarns, and the dyed product is further subjected to steaming treatment and washing treatment to dye the yarn in the dyeing method.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

【0001】[0001]

【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は、水と共存する状態
で温度によって可逆的に親水性(低温)−疎水性(高
温)に相転移する感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の
溶液に撥水撥油剤及び染料、助剤を分散させた捺染液
と、この捺染液を用い、手紡糸、手紬糸などの絹糸を絣
状に染色するための方法に関し、特に従来必要とされて
いた括りの作業を必要とせず、一度の部分捺染と地色の
染色とで絣状の染色が可能な捺染液とそれを使用した染
色方法に関する。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a water- and oil-repellent solution for a solution of a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative which undergoes a reversible hydrophilic (low temperature) -hydrophobic (high temperature) phase transition depending on temperature in the presence of water. In addition, a printing solution in which dyes and auxiliaries are dispersed, and a method for dyeing silk yarn such as hand-spun and hand-pulled yarn in a Kasuri form using this printing solution, particularly require the squeezing work conventionally required. The present invention relates to a printing liquid capable of performing Kasuri-like dyeing by one-time partial printing and ground color dyeing, and a dyeing method using the same.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】糸及び糸束状の染色方法には浸染、捺染
などがある。また、無地染めと対比される、いわゆるた
たき染めやすり込み捺染、両者を併用した方法、あるい
は型紙捺染という、いわゆる着尺産地で絣染色と総称さ
れる染色方法がある。無地染めが単色であるのに対し、
絣染めは多色に染め分ける方法として着尺の産地では最
も実用に供されている。
2. Description of the Related Art Dyeing and printing are known as dyeing methods for yarn and yarn bundles. In addition, there is a so-called tataki-dyeing and rub-in printing, which is contrasted with a plain dyeing, a method using both of them, or a patterning method, which is a so-called kasuri-dyeing in a so-called kakujaku production area. While solid color dyeing is a single color,
Kasuri dyeing is most practically used in the production area of Kijyaku as a method of dyeing in multiple colors.

【0003】たたき染めは、綿糸やゴムで糸束を図柄模
様となる部分に堅く括りつけ、それ以外の地といわれる
部分を染めるために、棒の先に糸束を結びつけ、染料を
含ませて、板の上にたたきつけ、染色する。例えばその
工程の例を図2に示す。まず糸束に黄色の染料を染色
し、糸束の黄色の色を残したい部分を綿糸やゴムで堅く
括りつける。次に、糸束を脱色する。次に、糸束に赤色
の染料を染色し、糸束の赤色の色を残したい部分を綿糸
やゴムで堅く括りつける。次に、糸束を脱色する。以下
同様にして、青色、緑色、茶色等の部分染色したい色に
ついて浸染−括り−脱色を順次繰り返す。最後に、地色
となる紺色の染料に糸束を浸染し、水洗、乾燥して絣染
めが完了する。
[0003] In the bat dyeing, a yarn bundle is tightly tied to a pattern pattern portion with cotton yarn or rubber, and a yarn bundle is tied to the tip of a rod to dye other portions called ground, and dye is contained. Beat on a plate and dye. For example, an example of the process is shown in FIG. First, the yarn bundle is dyed with a yellow dye, and the portion of the yarn bundle where the yellow color is to be left is tightly wrapped with cotton yarn or rubber. Next, the yarn bundle is decolorized. Next, the yarn bundle is dyed with a red dye, and the portion of the yarn bundle where the red color is to be left is tightly wrapped with cotton yarn or rubber. Next, the yarn bundle is decolorized. In the same manner, the color-dyeing-closing-decoloring is sequentially repeated for the color to be partially dyed such as blue, green, and brown. Finally, the yarn bundle is soaked and dyed in a dark blue dye, which is the ground color, washed with water and dried to complete the Kasuri dyeing.

【0004】[0004]

【発明が解決しようとしている課題】このように、絣染
めでは、図柄模様となる絣の部分色が多くなれば、その
色の数だけ 染色−括り−脱色という作業工程を繰り返
し、最後にたたき染めにより括った部分以外のところを
染色する。この作業は機屋、染色店の分業であるから当
然両者間をその都度往復し、作業時間以外に要する労力
や時間が大きい。さらに、染色−括り−脱色を繰り返す
ため、細心の注意を払って丁寧に作業を進めても、絣糸
はケバ立ちや分繊などの損傷をうけやすい。
As described above, in the Kasuri dyeing, if the number of partial colors of the Kasuri which becomes a design pattern increases, the work process of dyeing, bundling, and decoloring is repeated by the number of colors, and finally the tataki dyeing is performed. The part other than the part enclosed by is stained. Since this work is a division of labor between a machine shop and a dyeing shop, it naturally goes back and forth between them each time, and the labor and time required other than the working time are large. Furthermore, since dyeing-closing-decoloring is repeated, even if the work is carried out with great care and care, the Kasuri thread is easily damaged by fluffing and splitting.

【0005】また、糸束を括る強弱は個人差があり、同
一人であっても作業時の健康状態や温度、湿度による糸
の伸び縮み等により括り強度がちがう。括り強度が違う
と、一様に染色ができないため、個々の括り具合に応じ
て、糸束をたたく回数を加減しながら染色を行なう必要
がある。そのため、絣の染色はきわめて面倒で且つ困難
であった。
[0005] The strength of the yarn bundle varies from person to person, and even the same person has different stiffness due to health conditions during work, expansion and contraction of the yarn due to temperature and humidity, and the like. If the squeezing strength is different, the dyeing cannot be performed uniformly. Therefore, it is necessary to perform the dyeing while adjusting the number of times of tapping the yarn bundle according to the individual squeezing condition. Therefore, dyeing of the kasuri was extremely troublesome and difficult.

【0006】括りの作業は経験と勘とコツが必要とさ
れ、一日に2000カ所あまりも括れる技術者が一反分
の絣を括るのに、一カ月、高級品になると3〜6カ月を
要する。しかも、例え熟練者と言えども、均一に括るこ
とは極めて難しい。そして括られた内部は見えないの
で、染色の途中で括り糸を解きほぐし確認をしながら染
色する必要もある。そのように慎重に作業を進めても、
失敗する例が多く、括った者、染色した者が徒労に終わ
り、責任の所在や弁償問題に頭を悩ませ、経済的な損失
が大きいのが実状である。
[0006] The tying work requires experience, intuition and knack, and a technician who can tie in about 2,000 places a day takes one month to tie a piece of kasuri, and three to six months to become a luxury product. Cost. In addition, even if it is an expert, it is extremely difficult to wrap it evenly. Since the inside of the constricted portion is not visible, it is necessary to untie and loosen the constricting thread in the course of dyeing while dyeing. Even with such careful work,
There are many cases of failure, and the person who dyes and dyes ends up in vain, troubles the responsibility and reimbursement problems, and the economic loss is large.

【0007】その他にも、たたき染めに適用する染料、
助剤の選定も重要な因子であり、糸への親和性や浸透
性、染着速度、均染性、堅牢度など考慮し限定されたも
のの中から、色相や絣の細かさに応じて選択し、使用し
ている。従って、所望する絣や地色の色相がすべて満た
されるとは言えず、立派にデザイン化した図柄の実現が
出来ないことが多い。
[0007] In addition, dyes to be applied to bat dyeing,
The selection of auxiliaries is also an important factor, and is selected according to the hue and fineness of the kasuri from among those that are limited in consideration of the affinity and penetrability to the yarn, dyeing speed, leveling properties, and fastness. And use. Therefore, it cannot be said that all the desired hues of the kasuri and the ground color are satisfied, and it is often impossible to realize a well-designed design.

【0008】すり込み捺染は、ステンレス製のへらに染
料液をつけ、糸束状の図柄模様となる部分を多色に染め
分けた後、地となる広い面積の部分を単色に捺染する方
法と、予め地となる部分を無地に染めておき、絣となる
部分をへらに染料液をつけ多色に染め分ける方法が一般
的に行なわれている。広い部分のすり込み捺染は、均一
に染色するのが難しく、そのうえ絵際といわれる地と絣
の境界部分がにじみやすく、図柄模様が不鮮明になりや
すい。そのため、たたき染めと同様に適用する染料、助
剤の選定も重要な因子である。加えて、予め糸に糊付け
を施す適否が作業能率や出来栄えに大きく影響する。
[0008] The rub-in printing is a method of applying a dye solution to a stainless steel spatula, dyeing a thread-bundle-shaped pattern pattern in multiple colors, and then printing a large-area ground portion in a single color. In general, a method is used in which a portion to be ground is previously dyed in a solid color, and a portion to be a kasuri is colored with a spatula by applying a dye solution to a multicolor. It is difficult to uniformly dye a wide area by rub printing, and the border between the ground and the kasuri, which is said to be a painting, tends to blur and the pattern tends to be unclear. Therefore, the selection of a dye and an auxiliary agent to be applied is also an important factor as in the case of the bamboo dyeing. In addition, the suitability of pre-gluing the yarn greatly affects work efficiency and workmanship.

【0009】一部では、すり込み捺染とたたき染めを併
用した絣の作製方法も行なわれている。しかし、前述の
すり込み捺染とたたき染め個々の現状や課題を加味した
ことが当然ながらでてくるので、技術的にも、時間的に
も難しさが倍加し、この方法で絣を作製する技術者は希
少といえる。
[0009] In some cases, a method for producing a kasuri using both rub-in printing and tataki-dyeing has been performed. However, it is natural to take into account the current status and issues of the above-mentioned rub-in printing and tataki-dyeing, so the difficulty in terms of technology and time is doubled. Are rare.

【0010】型紙捺染は、予め糸に糊付けをしておき、
捺染台上に所定の長さ、幅に糸を広げておき、図柄模様
を切り抜いた型紙の上から捺染糊をスキージにより、各
色相ごとに型紙を変えて捺染し、乾燥し、蒸熱し、ソー
ピングし、水洗し、乾燥する。型紙は前述のように、各
色相ごとに作製し、それぞれの型紙は寸分の狂いも許さ
れないため、専門的な技術が必要であり、作製に要する
コスト、労力も大きい。
[0010] In the pattern printing, the yarn is glued in advance,
Spread the yarn to the specified length and width on the printing stand, print the printing paste with a squeegee on the pattern paper with the pattern cut out, changing the pattern for each hue, drying, steaming, and soaping And wash with water and dry. As described above, the pattern paper is produced for each hue, and since each pattern paper is not allowed to deviate in size, specialized technology is required, and the cost and labor required for the production are large.

【0011】また、型紙作製は相応な設備とコストがか
かるため、一つの柄で多量のロットを加工しないと型紙
作製の費用がペイしないため、現在の少量多品種生産が
主流である今日、逆行していく傾向となっている。もち
ろん、捺染加工にあたっては適用する染料、助剤の選定
も重要な因子であると共に、熟練した技能、技術が求め
られ、広い作業場が必要である。以上の述べた種々の問
題から、絣の生産地でこれらの課題の解決が強く要請さ
れている。
In addition, since the production of a pattern requires considerable equipment and cost, the cost of the pattern production is not paid unless a large number of lots are processed in one pattern. It is becoming a trend. Of course, in the printing process, the selection of dyes and auxiliaries to be applied is also an important factor, and skilled skills and techniques are required, and a large workplace is required. Due to the various problems described above, there is a strong demand for solving these problems in the Kasuri production area.

【0012】本発明では、従来の絣染色における前記の
課題に鑑み、各種形状の絹糸に着色と防染を同時に付与
することを可能とすることを目的とする。これにより、
従来から行なわれてきた、いわゆるたたき染め法やすり
込み捺染法、あるいは両者の併用法に代替し、何れも絣
作製工程における作業労力を軽減し、着色と防染を同時
に行い、あわせて作業の適否を随時確認できるようにす
るものである。
The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned problems of the conventional kasuri dyeing, and has as its object to enable coloring and anti-dyeing to be simultaneously applied to silk threads of various shapes. This allows
Instead of the so-called tataki-dyeing method, stencil printing method, or a combination of the two methods, the work labor in the Kasuri manufacturing process is reduced, and both coloring and anti-dyeing are performed simultaneously. Can be checked at any time.

【0013】[0013]

【課題を解決するための手段】本件発明者らは、感熱性
ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の特性と、撥水撥油剤の特
性とを組み合わせて利用し、これを主要成分とする粘調
水溶液を用いて、各種の糸及び糸束に図柄模様となる絣
を染色し、同時に他から汚染しないよう防染する手段に
ついて検討を行なった。特に、従来必要とされていた括
りの作業を必要とせず、しかも一度の部分捺染と地色の
捺染とで絣状の染色が可能な手段について検討を行っ
た。本発明は、この検討の結果なされたものである。
Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors utilize the characteristics of a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative in combination with the characteristics of a water- and oil-repellent agent, and use a viscous aqueous solution containing this as a main component. Then, various yarns and yarn bundles were dyed with kasuri as a design pattern, and at the same time, a means for preventing dyeing from being contaminated by others was examined. In particular, a study was made of a means that does not require the consolidation work conventionally required, and that can perform Kasuri-like dyeing by one-time partial printing and ground color printing. The present invention has been made as a result of this study.

【0014】本発明による捺染液は、水と共存する状態
で転移温度以上の高温で疎水性に、転移温度以下の低温
で親水性に相転移する感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導
体を成分とする溶液に、水に希釈、分散し、加熱処理を
行なうと撥水性を有する性状となる撥水撥油剤と、染
料、助剤を分散させたことを特徴とする。この捺染液の
好ましい組成は、相転移する感熱性ポリアクリルアミド
系誘導体が4〜8重量部と、撥水撥油剤が15〜25重
量部と、染料が0.5〜2重量部と、架橋剤が0.5〜
2重量部と、試薬が0.5〜2重量部とであり、これら
を61〜79.5重量部の水に溶融または分散させたも
のである。
The printing liquid according to the present invention is a solution containing a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative which undergoes a phase transition to be hydrophobic at a high temperature above the transition temperature in a state coexisting with water and hydrophilic at a low temperature below the transition temperature. And a water- and oil-repellent agent, which becomes water-repellent when diluted and dispersed in water and subjected to a heat treatment, and a dye and an auxiliary agent. A preferred composition of the printing liquid is 4 to 8 parts by weight of a phase-transferring heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative, 15 to 25 parts by weight of a water / oil repellent, 0.5 to 2 parts by weight of a dye, and a crosslinking agent. Is 0.5 ~
2 parts by weight and 0.5 to 2 parts by weight of a reagent, which are dissolved or dispersed in 61 to 79.5 parts by weight of water.

【0015】さらに本発明による染色方法は、前記の捺
染液を使用し、この捺染液を糸に捺染する工程と、捺染
した捺染液を加熱し、乾燥する工程と、糸に捺染液が乾
燥し、付着した状態で地色を浸染する工程と、その後糸
を湿式で加熱し、水洗いする工程とを経て糸を染色する
ことを特徴とする。
Further, the dyeing method according to the present invention comprises the steps of using the above-described printing solution, printing the printing solution on a yarn, heating and drying the printed printing solution, and drying the printing solution on the yarn. The method is characterized in that the yarn is dyed through a process of dip-dyeing the ground color in a state where the yarn is adhered, and a process of subsequently heating the yarn in a wet manner and washing with water.

【0016】前記のようにして、水と共存する状態で高
温で疎水性、低温にして親水性に可逆的に相転移する感
熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体と撥水撥油剤、染料、
助剤を成分とする捺染液を用い、糸や糸束を部分的に捺
染すると、図柄模様となる絣の着色部分は、捺染液に含
まれる染料により着色される。さらに、この捺染液が付
着した糸や糸束を加熱し、乾燥すると、感熱性ポリアク
リルアミド系誘導体と撥水撥油剤が糸や糸束の着色部分
に定着し、後の地色の浸染に際して防染の作用を呈する
ことになる。従って、その後糸または糸束に地色となる
染料を浸染すると、この染料は先に着色した部分には付
着しない。その後、糸または糸束を湿式で加熱し、水洗
いすることにより、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体
と撥水撥油剤が除去され、糸または糸束には、部分着色
した染料と地色の染料のみが残る。これにより、絣状の
染色が可能となる。
As described above, a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative which undergoes a reversible phase transition to hydrophobic at a high temperature and hydrophilic at a low temperature in the presence of water, a water / oil repellent, a dye,
When a yarn or a yarn bundle is partially printed using a printing liquid containing an auxiliary agent as a component, the colored portion of the kasuri that becomes a pattern is colored by the dye contained in the printing liquid. Further, when the yarn or yarn bundle to which the printing liquid is adhered is heated and dried, the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative and the water- and oil-repellent agent settle on the colored portion of the yarn or yarn bundle, and prevent the dyeing of the background color later. It will exhibit the action of dyeing. Therefore, when the dye which becomes the ground color is subsequently dyed on the yarn or yarn bundle, this dye does not adhere to the previously colored portion. Thereafter, the yarn or yarn bundle is heated in a wet manner and washed with water to remove the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative and the water / oil repellent, and the yarn or yarn bundle contains only a partially colored dye and a ground color dye. Remains. This makes it possible to perform a Kasuri-shaped dyeing.

【0017】部分的に着色されたところは、異なる色の
染料を含む捺染液を用いて複数個所を染色することがで
き、その後の乾燥だけで、括り工程を必要としない。こ
のため、前記本発明による捺染液を用いた部分着色と地
色のための染料を用いた地色着色と、それに付随する工
程を経るだけで、簡単に絣状の染色が可能となる。
[0017] The partially colored portion can be dyed at a plurality of portions by using a printing liquid containing a dye of a different color, and subsequent drying alone does not require a consolidation step. For this reason, it is possible to easily perform the Kasuri-shaped dyeing only by performing the partial coloring using the printing liquid according to the present invention and the ground color using the dye for the ground color, and the accompanying steps.

【0018】[0018]

【発明の実施の形態】次に、本発明の実施の形態につい
て、具体的且つ詳細に説明する。本発明による染料液の
一つの成分である感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体は
無色透明で、撥水撥油剤は乳白色である。このため、こ
れらと共に染料を加えることにより、任意の色相に調整
した捺染液が得られ、この捺染液で糸または糸束を捺染
したときの外観や捺染された絣の部分は色の変化がな
く、そのまま視感により確認ができる。なお、撥水撥油
剤は、例えばポリアクリル酸ペルフルオロアルキルエス
テルやフッ化カルボン酸クロム錯塩等の有機フッ素化合
物を使用したフッ素系のものが好適である。
Next, embodiments of the present invention will be described specifically and in detail. The heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative, which is one component of the dye solution according to the present invention, is colorless and transparent, and the water and oil repellent is milky white. For this reason, by adding a dye together with these, a printing solution adjusted to an arbitrary hue is obtained, and the appearance when printing a yarn or a bundle of yarns with this printing solution and the printed Kasuri portion do not change color. , Can be confirmed by visual feeling as it is. The water- and oil-repellent is preferably a fluorine-based one using an organic fluorine compound such as perfluoroalkyl ester of polyacrylic acid or chromium fluorocarboxylate.

【0019】低温で親水性を有する前記の感熱性ポリア
クリルアミド系誘導体と、加熱前は水で希釈、分散する
前記のフッ素系撥水撥油剤の溶液に、染料を水あるいは
熱湯で溶解し、冷却した後、助剤と共に分散、溶解した
粘調捺染液を、糸あるいは糸束に捺染すると、繊維と染
料の着色及び固着に必要な助剤が糸の繊維に吸着され
る。同時に、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体とフッ
素系撥水撥油剤からなる粘調溶液が乾燥すると、感熱性
ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体は固化し、捺染部がフィル
ム化し、薄い層状を形成する。また、感熱性ポリアクリ
ルアミド系誘導体の水溶液は粘調液であるから、撥水撥
油剤、染料、他の助剤の接着剤的な役割もするので、捺
染した部分は安定し、染料のにじみをおさえる。このた
め、模様の絵際が鮮明に、且つマイグレーションを防止
する。さらに、このような捺染液の性質は、糸の捺染後
における各作業時の摩擦や折れに対しても捺染部の脱落
を防止するなど有効な働きをする。
A dye is dissolved in water or hot water in a solution of the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative having hydrophilicity at low temperature and the fluorine-based water- and oil-repellent solution which is diluted and dispersed with water before heating, and cooled. After that, when the viscous printing liquid dispersed and dissolved together with the auxiliary agent is printed on the yarn or the yarn bundle, the auxiliary agent necessary for coloring and fixing the fiber and the dye is adsorbed on the fiber of the yarn. At the same time, when the viscous solution comprising the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative and the fluorine-based water- and oil-repellent is dried, the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative is solidified, the printed portion is formed into a film, and a thin layer is formed. In addition, since the aqueous solution of the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative is a viscous liquid, it also acts as an adhesive for water and oil repellents, dyes, and other auxiliaries. Hold on. For this reason, the edge of the pattern is sharp and migration is prevented. Further, such properties of the printing liquid have an effective function of preventing the printed portion from falling off against friction and breakage during each operation after printing the yarn.

【0020】一方、助剤として添加した酢酸は、糸へ染
料が着色及び固着するのを促進すると共に、感熱性ポリ
アクリルアミド系誘導体、例えばポリ−N−イソプロピ
ルアクリルアミドの転移温度を31℃から26.5℃に
低下させる。このため、部分的な捺染部以外の染色時、
いわゆる地色の染色時には低い温度から染色できる。従
って、広い面積の部分を染色する際、斑染め防止策とし
て後の地色の染色工程で有効に作用する。こうして図柄
模様として捺染された糸ないし糸束を乾燥させた後、乾
燥機中で熱処理を数分行なうと、捺染部に含有されてい
るフッ素系撥水撥油剤が感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘
導体中で、または単独で疎水性化し、撥水性を呈する。
On the other hand, acetic acid added as an auxiliary promotes coloring and fixation of the dye on the yarn, and changes the transition temperature of a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative such as poly-N-isopropylacrylamide from 31 ° C. to 26 ° C. Lower to 5 ° C. For this reason, when dyeing other than the partially printed part,
When dyeing a so-called ground color, dyeing can be performed from a low temperature. Therefore, when dyeing a large area portion, it effectively works in the subsequent background color dyeing step as a measure for preventing spotting. After drying the yarn or yarn bundle printed as a pattern in this way, when a heat treatment is performed for several minutes in a dryer, the fluorine-based water- and oil-repellent contained in the printed portion is converted into a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative. , Or singly renders it hydrophobic and exhibits water repellency.

【0021】ここで、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導
体を添加せず、撥水撥油剤のみを捺染液に添加すると、
染料の着色や固着率を低下させると共に、必要以上に撥
水性を帯びるので、短時間のソーピングや水洗では除去
しきれない。そのため、地色染色を行なった後に、製織
の準備工程である糊付け作業時に、撥水撥油剤が残って
いることにより、糊の付着が阻害され、準備工程のその
後の作業に支障をきたす。
Here, when only the water and oil repellent is added to the printing liquid without adding the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative,
It reduces the coloring and fixation of the dye, and is more water-repellent than necessary, so that it cannot be completely removed by soaping or washing with water for a short time. For this reason, after the ground color dyeing is performed, the water / oil repellent remains during the gluing operation in the weaving preparation process, which hinders the adhesion of the glue and hinders the subsequent work in the preparation process.

【0022】また、撥水撥油剤を添加せず、感熱性ポリ
アクリルアミド系誘導体のみを捺染液に添加すると、撥
水性が乏しく、捺染部分表面からの染料や水分の浸入を
防ぐことはできるが、糸束に平行した横からの染料や水
分の侵入を完全に防ぐことができなくなる。このため、
地色の染色の時に、絣の部分染色部に地色の染料がにじ
むようになり、鮮明な絵際が得られない。
When only a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative is added to a printing liquid without adding a water- and oil-repellent agent, the water-repellency is poor and dye and moisture can be prevented from penetrating from the surface of the printing portion. This makes it impossible to completely prevent intrusion of dye or moisture from the side parallel to the yarn bundle. For this reason,
At the time of ground color dyeing, the ground color dye becomes blurred in the partially dyed portion of the kasuri, and a clear picture is not obtained.

【0023】このような理由から、感熱性ポリアクリル
アミド系誘導体と共にフッ素系撥水撥油剤を使用するこ
とにより、熱的刺激には疎水性や撥水性を有し、低温浴
では疎水性、撥水性をあまり示さないものとすることが
できる。また、捺染、熱処理、浸染、蒸熱などの諸工程
を終了した後、糸や糸束を水洗することにより、防染作
用を示していた感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体とフ
ッ素系撥水撥油剤を除去することができる。
For these reasons, the use of a fluorine-based water- and oil-repellent together with a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative provides hydrophobicity and water repellency for thermal stimulation, and hydrophobicity and water repellency in a low-temperature bath. May not be shown very much. In addition, after finishing various processes such as printing, heat treatment, dip dyeing, and steaming, the threads and yarn bundles are washed with water to remove the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative and the fluorine-based water- and oil-repellent, which exhibited anti-dyeing action. can do.

【0024】さらに詳しく述べれば、感熱性ポリアクリ
ルアミド系誘導体の粘調液中にフッ素系撥水撥油剤、染
料、助剤を混合調整すると、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド
系誘導体の粘調液中にフッ素系撥水撥油剤、染料、助剤
が分散する。こうして得られた捺染液を糸束に捺染する
と、水分、染料、撥水撥油剤は糸の繊維内部に拡散、浸
透する。もちろん、染料や撥水撥油剤は、糸束に付着し
た感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の粘調液中にも分
散しているが、それらの染料や撥水撥油剤は、粘調液よ
り粒子が小さく、粘度が低いため、より糸束の内部に拡
散、浸透する。一方、粘度が高い感熱性ポリアクリルア
ミド系誘導体は、糸束の表面近くに集合する。そしてこ
の感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体は、糊状の高分子
であるから、乾燥すると皮膜を形成する。次に、この皮
膜を熱処理することにより、フッ素系撥水撥油剤が糸束
の内外に撥水性を発現し、次の地色の浸染工程におい
て、染液が捺染部分の繊維に侵入することを防止する。
要するに、地色の浸染工程において、糸束表面近くは感
熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体が、糸束内部では撥水
撥油剤がそれぞれに染液の侵入を防ぐ。
More specifically, when a fluorine-based water- and oil-repellent, a dye, and an auxiliary agent are mixed and adjusted in the viscous liquid of the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative, the fluorine-containing water-repellent oil-repellent agent is mixed in the viscous liquid of the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative. Water and oil repellents, dyes and auxiliaries are dispersed. When the printing liquid thus obtained is printed on a yarn bundle, moisture, dye, and water / oil repellent diffuse and permeate into the fiber of the yarn. Of course, the dye and the water / oil repellent are also dispersed in the thermosensitive polyacrylamide-based viscous liquid attached to the yarn bundle, but the dye and the water / oil repellent have more particles than the viscous liquid. Due to its small size and low viscosity, it diffuses and penetrates inside the yarn bundle. On the other hand, the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative having a high viscosity aggregates near the surface of the yarn bundle. Since the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative is a pasty polymer, it forms a film when dried. Next, by heat-treating this film, the fluorine-based water / oil repellent develops water repellency inside and outside of the yarn bundle, and in the next ground color dyeing process, the dyeing liquid penetrates into the fibers of the printed portion. To prevent.
In short, in the ground color dyeing process, the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative near the surface of the yarn bundle and the water / oil repellent inside the yarn bundle prevent the intrusion of the dyeing liquor.

【0025】地色を浸染した後、直ちに糸束の蒸熱を行
なうが、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体は、吸湿性
があるので、蒸気中の水分を取込み、ゴム状に軟化し、
糸束の繊維に水分を供給する重要な役割をはたす。この
時、染料の発色や固着に不可欠なのは温度や水分であ
り、どちらか一方が不足すると染色ができないので、大
切な条件の一つといえる。撥水撥油剤は、外部からの染
料の侵入や汚染は防止できるが、前述のように捺染部の
染料の発色や固着に必要な水分の供給がない。従って、
撥水撥油剤のみでは、防染の効果は充分に発揮される
が、着色に対しては阻害する。このように、感熱性ポリ
アクリルアミド系誘導体と撥水撥油剤とがそれぞれの機
能を補完し合い、着色と防染の作用を同時に行なうこと
を可能にしたものである。
Immediately after the background color is dyed, the yarn bundle is steamed. However, since the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative has a hygroscopic property, it takes in moisture in steam and softens into a rubbery form.
It plays an important role in supplying water to the fibers of the yarn bundle. At this time, temperature and moisture are indispensable for the color development and fixation of the dye. If either one of them is insufficient, the dyeing cannot be performed. The water- and oil-repellent agent can prevent the intrusion and contamination of the dye from the outside, but does not supply the water necessary for coloring and fixing the dye in the printed portion as described above. Therefore,
The water- and oil-repellent agent alone sufficiently exerts the effect of dyeing prevention, but hinders coloring. Thus, the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative and the water- and oil-repellent agent complement each other's functions, and can simultaneously perform coloring and anti-dyeing actions.

【0026】絣や地色部分の染色が終了した後、ソ−ピ
ングや水洗工程で余分に付着した染料や助剤、感熱性ポ
リアクリルアミド系誘導体及び撥水撥油剤の除去を行な
うが、ソ−ピング時にはソ−ピング剤として添加した界
面活性剤により熱湯浴中で撥水撥油剤を除去し、水洗時
には感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体を除去すること
ができる。このことから、染色後の糊付けや後に続く工
程に何ら支障をきたさない。
After the dyeing of the kasuri and the ground color portion is completed, the dyes and auxiliaries, heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivatives and water- and oil-repellents, which are excessively adhered in the soaping and washing steps, are removed. When pinging, the water- and oil-repellent agent can be removed in a hot water bath with a surfactant added as a soaping agent, and when washing with water, the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative can be removed. For this reason, there is no hindrance to gluing after dyeing and subsequent steps.

【0027】捺染液の好ましい組成は、相転移する感熱
性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体が4〜8重量部と、フッ
素系撥水撥油剤が15〜25重量部と、染料が0.5〜
2重量部と、架橋剤が0.5〜2重量部と、試薬が0.
5〜2重量部、水が61〜79.5重量である。ここ
で、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体は、20重量%
前後の水溶液で添加される。
The preferred composition of the printing liquid is 4 to 8 parts by weight of a phase-transferring heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative, 15 to 25 parts by weight of a fluorine-based water / oil repellent, and 0.5 to 5 parts by weight of a dye.
2 parts by weight, 0.5 to 2 parts by weight of a crosslinking agent, and 0.1% of a reagent.
5 to 2 parts by weight, water is 61 to 79.5 parts by weight. Here, the thermosensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative is 20% by weight.
It is added before and after the aqueous solution.

【0028】感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体が4重
量部に満たないと、染料による着色や染料の定着が悪く
なるからである。他方、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘
導体が8重量部を越えると、地色の染色の時に、絣の部
分染色部に地色の染料がにじむようになり、鮮明な絵際
が得られにくい。フッ素系撥水撥油剤が15重量部に満
たないと、充分な撥水性が得られず、地色の染色の時
に、絣の部分染色部に地色の染料がにじみやくすなり、
鮮明な絵際が得られない。他方、フッ素系撥水撥油剤が
25重量部を越えると、必要以上に撥水性を帯びるの
で、短時間のソーピングや水洗では除去しきれなくな
り、作業性が悪くなる。
If the amount of the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative is less than 4 parts by weight, coloring with the dye and fixing of the dye are deteriorated. On the other hand, when the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative exceeds 8 parts by weight, the ground color dye becomes blurred on the partially dyed portion of the kasuri when the ground color is dyed, and it is difficult to obtain a clear picture. If the fluorine-based water- and oil-repellent is less than 15 parts by weight, sufficient water repellency cannot be obtained, and when the ground color is dyed, the ground color dye bleeds into the partially dyed portion of the kasuri,
A clear picture cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the fluorine-based water- and oil-repellent exceeds 25 parts by weight, it will be unnecessarily water-repellent and cannot be completely removed by short-time soaping or washing with water, resulting in poor workability.

【0029】[0029]

【実施例】次に、本発明の実施例について、具体的且つ
詳細に説明する。 (実施例1)染料としてカヤノ−ルミーリングイエロー
MR(日本化薬)1部を水47部に加え、加熱溶解し、
冷却した後、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体として
ポリNIPAMの19.3%水溶液(興人)を30重量
部添加した。その後、撥水撥油剤としてアサヒガードA
G710(明成科学)を20重量部、架橋剤としてエマ
フィックスSSS(大日糖化)を1重量部、試薬として
酢酸を1重量部順次加え、合計100部とした。これを
充分撹拌して捺染液を作った。
Next, embodiments of the present invention will be described specifically and in detail. (Example 1) 1 part of Kayano Lumiring Yellow MR (Nippon Kayaku) as a dye was added to 47 parts of water, and dissolved by heating.
After cooling, 30 parts by weight of a 19.3% aqueous solution of poly NIPAM (Kokijin) as a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based derivative was added. Then, Asahi Guard A was used as a water and oil repellent.
20 parts by weight of G710 (Meisei Kagaku), 1 part by weight of Emafix SSS (Dainichi Saccharification) as a cross-linking agent, and 1 part by weight of acetic acid as a reagent were added sequentially to make a total of 100 parts. This was sufficiently stirred to produce a printing liquid.

【0030】次に、絹200デニールの糊付手紬糸を1
00本束ね、ステンレスへらで前記の捺染液を1cm幅
に捺染し、室内で自然乾燥した。捺染した部分はにじみ
もなく、糸束の内外層とも均一にしかも透明感があり、
鮮明な黄色に捺染されているのが観測された。次に、乾
燥機中において、150℃の温度で3分間熱処理した
後、地色の染料としてイルガランブラックBGL(チバ
ガイギー)の2g/lと酢酸の2ml/lを糸重量の1
00倍に薄めた染料液に50℃の温度で2分間浸染し
た。その後糸束を直ちに遠心脱水機で脱水した。この
時、黄色に捺染した部分は黒色の染色浴中にあっても鮮
明に、かつ、汚染されずに残っているのが観測された。
Next, 200 g of silk denim yarn with 200 denier was added.
After bundling 00 pieces, the above-mentioned printing solution was printed to a width of 1 cm with a stainless spatula and air-dried indoors. The printed part does not bleed, and the inner and outer layers of the yarn bundle are even and transparent.
It was observed that it was printed in vivid yellow. Next, after heat-treating for 3 minutes at a temperature of 150 ° C. in a drier, 2 g / l of Irgalane Black BGL (Ciba Geigy) and 2 ml / l of acetic acid as a ground color dye were added to a yarn weight of 1%.
Dyeing was carried out at a temperature of 50 ° C. for 2 minutes in a 00-fold diluted dye solution. Thereafter, the yarn bundle was immediately dehydrated with a centrifugal dehydrator. At this time, it was observed that the portion printed in yellow remained clear and uncontaminated even in the black dyeing bath.

【0031】次に、ステンレス製蒸熱箱中で100℃、
45分間蒸熱した後、ソーピング剤、P−クリンA(モ
ーリン化学)3ml/lを用い、温度50℃中で処理
し、その後、水洗し、乾燥した。この時の捺染部の糊落
ちは良好であった。乾燥の後、黄色に捺染した絣部分は
鮮明に残り、黒色に浸染した部分は純黒として観測さ
れ、最も汚染が目立つ黄色も汚染されず良好な絣として
観測された。また、染色された糸はケバの発生や繊維の
分繊化が見られなかった。
Next, in a stainless steel steaming box at 100 ° C.
After steaming for 45 minutes, the mixture was treated at a temperature of 50 ° C. with a soaping agent, 3 ml / l of P-clean A (Morin Chemical), and then washed with water and dried. At this time, the paste printed on the printed portion was good. After drying, the yellow-printed Kasuri portion remained sharp, and the black-soaked portion was observed as pure black, and the most conspicuous yellow was observed without contamination as a good Kasuri. In addition, the dyed yarn did not show occurrence of fluff or fiber separation.

【0032】(比較例1)前記実施例1において、感熱
性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体をアサヒガードAG71
0の10重量部とした以外は、同実施例1と同様にして
捺染液を手紬糸に捺染し、熱処理し、蒸熱し、ソーピン
グし、水洗した。捺染液の調整時には、粘度が低く、混
合はしやすかったが、すり込み捺染時には、にじみやす
く、1cmの幅にすり込んだにもかかわらず、乾燥後に
は1.2cmとなり、絵際が不鮮明になっているのが観
測された。また、イルガランブラックBGLによる地色
の染色時には、黄色に捺染した部分が黒色に汚染されて
いるのが観測された。蒸熱、ソーピング、水洗、乾燥の
各工程を経た後は、黄色に印捺された部分が僅かに残っ
ているのが観測された。すなわち、絣となる捺染部分は
ほとんど黒色となり、図柄模様とはならず、使用できな
いことを示した。
Comparative Example 1 In Example 1, the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative was replaced with Asahigard AG71.
The printing liquid was printed on a hand-pulled yarn in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the amount was changed to 10 parts by weight of 0, heat-treated, steamed, soaped, and washed with water. At the time of preparation of the printing liquid, the viscosity was low and mixing was easy, but at the time of rubbing printing, it easily bleed, but after drying it was 1.2 cm after drying and the picture was unclear. Was observed. In addition, when the ground color was dyed with Irgaran Black BGL, it was observed that the portion printed in yellow was contaminated with black. After each of the steps of steaming, soaping, washing and drying, it was observed that a slightly printed portion of yellow remained. In other words, the printed portion that is to be Kasuri was almost black, did not have a pattern, and could not be used.

【0033】(比較例2)前記実施例1において、捺染
液の感熱性ポリアクリルアミド誘導体をポリNIPAM
の50重量部に、撥水撥油剤をアサヒガードAG710
の30重量部とした以外は、同実施例1と同様にして捺
染液を手紬糸に捺染し、熱処理し、蒸熱し、ソーピング
し、水洗を行なった。捺染液の調整時には、粘度が高
く、混合がしにくく、すり込み捺染時には、すり込みに
くく、捺染液が糸束内部に浸透しなかった。このため、
糸束表面は捺染面積が広く、内部は染色できなかった。
また、イルガランブラックBGLによる地色の染色時に
は、糸束表面の黄色に捺染された部分が鮮明に残ってい
るが、内部は黒色に汚染されているのが観測された。蒸
熱、ソーピング、水洗、乾燥の工程を経た後は、黄色に
捺染された部分が僅かに残っていいるのが観測された。
すなわち、絣となる捺染部分のごくわずかの部分が黄色
で、ほとんど黒色となり、図柄模様とはならず、使用で
きないことを示した。
(Comparative Example 2) In Example 1, the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative of the printing liquid was replaced with polyNIPAM.
50 parts by weight of Asahi Guard AG710
The printing liquid was printed on a hand-pulled yarn in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the amount was changed to 30 parts by weight, heat-treated, steamed, soaped, and washed with water. At the time of preparation of the printing liquid, the viscosity was high and mixing was difficult, and at the time of rubbing printing, it was difficult to rub and the printing liquid did not penetrate into the yarn bundle. For this reason,
The surface of the yarn bundle had a large printing area, and the inside could not be dyed.
Further, when the ground color was dyed with Irgaran Black BGL, it was observed that the yellow printed portion of the surface of the yarn bundle remained sharply, but the inside was stained with black. After the steps of steaming, soaping, washing and drying, it was observed that a slightly printed portion of yellow remained.
In other words, a very small part of the printed portion to be Kasuri was yellow and almost black, and did not have a pattern, indicating that it could not be used.

【0034】(比較例3)前記実施例1において、感熱
性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体としてマーポローズEM
−400の5%水溶液(松本油脂製薬)の30重量部
を、撥水撥油剤としてダック204(着色防染剤、田中
直染料店)の20重量部を使用した以外は、同実施例1
と同様にして捺染液を手紬糸に捺染し、熱処理し、蒸熱
し、ソーピングし、水洗を行なった。捺染液の調整時に
は粘度が高く、混合しにくく、すり込み捺染時には、捺
染液が糸束内部に浸透しないため、内外のすり込み幅が
異なり、絵際が不鮮明になっているのが観測された。捺
染部分は不透明で白味を帯びた淡い黄色を呈していた。
また、イルガランブラックBGLによる地色の染色時に
は、黄色に印捺した部分が黒色に汚染されているのが観
測された。蒸熱、ソーピング、水洗、乾燥の工程を経た
後は、黄色に捺染された部分が僅かに残っているのが観
測された。すなわち、絣となる捺染部分はほとんど黒色
となり、図柄模様とはならず、使用できないことを示し
た。
Comparative Example 3 In Example 1, Marpolose EM was used as the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative.
Example 1 except that 30 parts by weight of a 5% aqueous solution of -400 (Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd.) was used and 20 parts by weight of Duck 204 (colored dye repellent, Tanaka Naoki Dye Shop) was used as a water and oil repellent.
In the same manner as described above, the printing liquid was printed on hand-pulp yarn, heat-treated, steamed, soaped, and washed with water. It was observed that the viscosity was high when the printing liquid was adjusted, it was difficult to mix, and during the rubbing printing, the printing liquid did not penetrate into the inside of the yarn bundle, so the inside and outside rubbing widths were different, and the picture was blurred. . The printed part had an opaque, whitish, pale yellow color.
When the ground color was dyed with Irgaran Black BGL, it was observed that the portion printed in yellow was contaminated with black. After the steps of steaming, soaping, washing and drying, it was observed that a slightly printed yellow portion remained. In other words, the printed portion that is to be Kasuri was almost black, did not have a pattern, and could not be used.

【0035】(実施例2)前記実施例1において、染料
としてラニールレッドB(住友化学工業)を使用した以
外は、同実施例1と同様にして、ポリNIPAM、アサ
ヒガードAG710、架橋剤を加えて捺染液を調整し
た。この捺染液は均一に混合でき、液も安定していた。
(Example 2) PolyNIPAM, Asahigard AG710 and a cross-linking agent were used in the same manner as in Example 1 except that Ranyl Red B (Sumitomo Chemical Industries) was used as the dye. In addition, a printing solution was prepared. This printing liquid could be mixed uniformly, and the liquid was also stable.

【0036】その後、実施例1において、染色する糸束
として、糊付手紬糸に代えて糊付絹糸(120デニー
ル)200本/束を使用したこと以外は、同実施例1と
同様にして捺染液を糸束に捺染し、乾燥し、熱処理し、
蒸熱し、ソーピングし、水洗し、乾燥した。捺染時には
染液の浸透もよく、糸束の内外へ均一に、しかも絵際も
鮮明に捺染できた。黒色染料による染色時は、染色浴中
に糸束が浸っていても、絣の色相がそのまま赤色を呈し
ているのが確認でき、汚染していない絣の状態が視感に
より確認できた。蒸熱、ソーピング、水洗、乾燥の工程
を経た後も、絣の捺染部分は鮮明な赤色に、地色の部分
は黒色に染色したのが確認され、捺染部分の糊落ちも良
好であった。
Thereafter, in Example 1, printing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 200 yarns / bundle of glued silk (120 denier) were used instead of the glued silk yarn as the yarn bundle to be dyed. The liquid is printed on the yarn bundle, dried, heat treated,
Steamed, soaped, washed with water and dried. At the time of printing, the dye liquor penetrated well, and it was possible to print the inside and outside of the yarn bundle evenly, and the picture was sharp. At the time of dyeing with the black dye, even if the yarn bundle was immersed in the dyeing bath, it was confirmed that the color of the kasuri was red as it was, and the state of the non-polluted kasuri could be visually confirmed. Even after the steps of steaming, soaping, washing and drying, it was confirmed that the printed portion of the kasuri was dyed vivid red and the ground color was dyed black, and that the printed portion had good desizing.

【0037】(比較例4)前記実施例2において、感熱
性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体としてシーザーガム(2
%水溶液)の20重量部を、撥水撥油剤として浸染用防
染糊G−3(田中直染料店)の30重量部を使用した以
外は、同実施例2と同様にして捺染液を調整した。この
捺染糊は粘度が高く、撹拌しながら混合するのが困難で
あった。
Comparative Example 4 In Example 2, Caesar gum (2) was used as the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative.
% Aqueous solution) and 30 parts by weight of the dyeing paste G-3 (Tanaka Naoki Dye Shop) as a water / oil repellent, to prepare a printing liquid in the same manner as in Example 2. did. This printed paste had a high viscosity and was difficult to mix with stirring.

【0038】次に、実施例2と同様にして、捺染液を糊
付絹糸に捺染し、室内で自然乾燥した。捺染糊は粘度が
高いため、捺染がしにくく、糸束の外側が広く、内側が
狭く捺染され、絵際も不鮮明で、捺染部は不透明かつ白
味を帯びた淡いピンク色となっているのが観測された。
次いで、実施例2と同様にして、糸束を熱処理し、浸染
し、蒸熱し、ソーピングし、水洗し、乾燥した。浸染時
には捺染部分が染色開始直後から黒色に汚染し、ソーピ
ング以後の処理においても黒色に汚染した絣の部分は赤
色には復元しなかったのが観測された。
Next, in the same manner as in Example 2, the printing liquid was printed on a glued silk thread and air-dried indoors. The printing paste has high viscosity, so it is difficult to print, the outside of the yarn bundle is wide, the inside is narrow, the picture is unclear, and the printed part is opaque and white pink with a pale pink color Was observed.
Then, in the same manner as in Example 2, the yarn bundle was heat-treated, dyed, steamed, soaped, washed with water and dried. At the time of dyeing, it was observed that the printed portion was stained black immediately after the start of the dyeing, and that the portion of the Kasuri that had been stained black did not restore to red even after the soaping.

【0039】(実施例3)前記実施例1において、染料
としてカヤノールミーリングブルー2RW(日本化薬)
の1重量部を使用した以外は、同実施例1と同様にし
て、ポリNIPAM、アサヒガードAG710、架橋剤
を加えて捺染剤を調整した。この捺染液は均一に混合で
き、液も安定していた。
(Example 3) In the same manner as in Example 1 above, as a dye, Kayanol Milling Blue 2RW (Nippon Kayaku)
In the same manner as in Example 1 except that 1 part by weight of was used, poly NIPAM, Asahigard AG710 and a crosslinking agent were added to prepare a printing agent. This printing liquid could be mixed uniformly, and the liquid was also stable.

【0040】その後、糊付手紬糸に前記実施例1と同様
にして捺染液を捺染し、乾燥した。捺染した部分はにじ
みもなく、糸束の内外層とも均一に、しかも透明感があ
り、鮮明な青色に捺染されているのが観測された。捺染
に要した時間は5分であった。次に、前記実施例1と同
様にして、熱処理し、浸染し、蒸熱し、ソーピングし、
水洗し、乾燥した。青色に捺染した絣部分は鮮明に残
り、黒色に浸染した部分は純黒として観測された。ま
た、染色された糸はケバや繊維の分繊化がみられず、染
色前の糊付手紬糸と同様な糸荒れのないのが観測され
た。
Thereafter, a printing solution was printed on the glued hand-made pongee yarn in the same manner as in Example 1 and dried. It was observed that the printed portion did not bleed, and that the inner and outer layers of the yarn bundle were uniformly and transparent, and that the printed portion was printed in a clear blue color. The time required for printing was 5 minutes. Next, heat treatment, dyeing, steaming, and soaping were performed in the same manner as in Example 1 above.
Washed with water and dried. The blue-printed kasuri portion remained sharp, and the black-colored portion was observed as pure black. In addition, the dyed yarn did not show fluff or fiber separation, and it was observed that the yarn was not rough as in the case of the glued hand-pulp yarn before dyeing.

【0041】(比較例5)前記実施例3において、感熱
性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体としてシーザーガムの
0.5重量部を、撥水撥油剤としてアサヒガードAG7
10及び架橋剤を添加せず、水を97.5重量部とした
以外は、同実施例3と同様にして捺染液を調整した。こ
の捺染液の組成は、茨城県結城地方で通常行なわれてい
る標準的なものである。
Comparative Example 5 In Example 3, 0.5 parts by weight of Caesar gum was used as the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative, and Asahigard AG7 was used as the water and oil repellent.
A printing liquid was prepared in the same manner as in Example 3 except that water and 97.5 parts by weight were used without adding No. 10 or a crosslinking agent. The composition of this printing liquid is a standard one commonly used in the Yuki region of Ibaraki prefecture.

【0042】次に、前記実施例3と同様にして糊付手紬
糸に捺染液を捺染し、自然乾燥した後、ステンレス製蒸
熱箱中で45分間蒸熱した。捺染部はにじみもなく、捺
染した部分は鮮明な青色として観測された。次に、捺染
した部分をカタン糸(綿、20番手双糸)で伝統的手法
により、括って、捺染した部分を防染した。この括りに
要した時間は50分であった。次に、前記実施例と同様
な染色浴組成、染色温度の黒色染色浴中で糸束をもみな
がら、括られた部分の間に染料液が浸透するように染色
した。予め青色に捺染した部分は綿糸で括られているの
で染色時には見えなかった。次に、染料液から糸束を引
き上げ、脱水し室内で乾燥した。次いで、綿糸で括った
部分を解きほぐした。予め青色に捺染された部分は鮮明
に残っている部分と、カタン糸で括られた糸と糸の間か
ら染料が侵入し、黒色に汚染した部分とが観測された。
Next, the printing liquid was printed on the glued hand-made pongee yarn in the same manner as in Example 3 and air-dried, followed by steaming in a stainless steel steaming box for 45 minutes. The printed portion was not bleeding, and the printed portion was observed as clear blue. Next, the printed portion was wrapped with a traditional method using a catan thread (cotton, 20th twin yarn) to prevent the printed portion from being dyed. The time required for this closing was 50 minutes. Next, dyeing was carried out in a black dyeing bath having the same dyeing bath composition and dyeing temperature as in the above-mentioned example, while seeing the yarn bundle, so that the dye solution penetrated between the confined portions. The part previously printed in blue was not visible at the time of dyeing because it was confined with cotton thread. Next, the yarn bundle was pulled up from the dye solution, dehydrated and dried indoors. Next, the portion enclosed by the cotton thread was loosened. In the part previously printed in blue, a clearly remaining part and a part contaminated with black by the invasion of dye from between the yarns confined by the katan yarn were observed.

【0043】(実施例4)実施例1において、染料とし
て次の1〜11の各染料の1重量部を使用し、染色する
糸束を糊付手紡糸(絹、160デニール)100本/束
としたこと以外は、同実施例1と同様にして絣の染色を
行った。 1:ポーラーブリリアントブルーRAW 2:スプラノールサイアニン7BF 3:カヤノールミーリングレッドGRA 4:イルガランイエロ−GL 5:PMグリーンGL 6:イルガランバイオレットRL 7:ダイレクトスカーレットB 8:スミライトバイオレットBB 9:イルガノールイエロー3GL 10:カヤノールミーリンググリー5GW 11:カヤノールミーリングバイオレットFBW
Example 4 In Example 1, 1 part by weight of each of the following dyes 1 to 11 was used as the dye, and the yarn bundle to be dyed was hand-spun (silk, 160 denier) 100 yarns / bundle. Other than that, dyeing of Kasuri was performed in the same manner as in Example 1. 1: Polar brilliant blue RAW 2: Spranol cyanine 7BF 3: Kayanol milling red GRA 4: Irgaran yellow-GL 5: PM green GL 6: Irgaran violet RL 7: Direct scarlet B 8: Sumilite violet BB 9 : Irganol Yellow 3GL 10: Kayanol milling grease 5 GW 11: Kayanol milling violet FBW

【0044】捺染液の調整、糸束への捺染、熱処理、浸
染、蒸熱、ソーピング、水洗、乾燥の各工程において、
実施例1と同様に、鮮明な各々の色相が絣として染色で
きた、黒色染料による汚染もなく、染色されているのが
観測された。因みに、産地で通常行なわれている、すり
込み捺染法により1〜11の各染料について染色したも
のと、実施例4の方法により染色したものについて、染
色堅牢度試験のうち、耐光試験JISL0843、キセ
ノンアーク灯光試験機2.5KW、摩擦試験JISL0
849、摩擦試験機2型、熱湯試験JISL0845、
ビーカー法2号についてそれぞれ試験を行なった。この
時、両者の間には変退、汚染の差がほとんどなく、ほぼ
同等の等級を有していた。このことから、本発明の染色
方法は、通常の染色方法と同様な堅牢度を有しているの
を示している。
In each of the steps of preparing a printing liquid, printing on a yarn bundle, heat treatment, dyeing, steaming, soaping, washing and drying,
As in Example 1, it was observed that each of the clear hues could be dyed as a kasuri and was stained without contamination by a black dye. Incidentally, the dyeing of each of the dyes 1 to 11 by the rub-in printing method usually performed in the production area and the dyeing by the method of Example 4 were performed in the light fastness test JISL0843, xenon. Arc light tester 2.5KW, friction test JISL0
849, friction tester 2 type, hot water test JISL0845,
Each test was carried out for Beaker Method No. 2. At this time, there was almost no difference in deterioration and contamination between the two, and they had almost the same grade. This indicates that the dyeing method of the present invention has the same fastness as the ordinary dyeing method.

【0045】(実施例5)前記実施例1と同様にして調
整した捺染液を使用し、ステンレスへらにより、糊付手
紬糸(絹、200デニール)100本/束に太さ1m
m、間隔を2mmの捺染部を幅3cmで5箇所捺染し、
自然乾燥した。次に、ステンレス製蒸熱箱中で糸束を1
00℃の温度で45分間蒸熱した後、3cmの幅で黄色
に捺染した上から、染料を添加しないこと以外は前記実
施例1と同様にして調整した捺染液をさらに捺染した。
捺染した黄色の部分はにじみもなく、糸束の内外層とも
均一に、しかも透明感があり、鮮明な黄色に捺染してい
るのが観測された。
(Example 5) Using a printing solution prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 above, using a spatula with a stainless steel spatula, 100 pieces of glued hand pongee (silk, 200 denier) per bundle were 1 m thick.
m, the printing part with a spacing of 2 mm is printed at 5 places with a width of 3 cm,
Naturally dried. Next, the yarn bundle is placed in a stainless steel steaming box.
After steaming at a temperature of 00 ° C. for 45 minutes, printing was performed in yellow with a width of 3 cm, and then a printing liquid prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that no dye was added was further printed.
It was observed that the printed yellow portion did not bleed, and that the inner and outer layers of the yarn bundle were uniformly and transparent, and that the printed portion was printed in clear yellow.

【0046】次に、乾燥機中において150℃の温度で
3分間熱処理をした後、イルガランブラックBGLを2
g/lと酢酸2mlとの液量100倍の染料液に、50
℃の温度で2分間浸染し、直ちに遠心脱水機で脱水し
た。黄色に捺染した部分と、染料を添加しない白残しの
部分は、黒色の浴中にあっても鮮明に、且つ汚染されず
に残っているのが観測された。
Next, after a heat treatment in a dryer at a temperature of 150 ° C. for 3 minutes, Irgaran Black BGL was added to 2%.
g / l and 2 ml of acetic acid in a 100-fold volume
It was dyed at a temperature of 2 ° C. for 2 minutes and immediately dehydrated with a centrifugal dehydrator. It was observed that the yellow-printed portion and the white residue portion to which no dye was added remained clear and uncontaminated even in the black bath.

【0047】次に、ステンレス製蒸熱箱中で100℃、
45分間蒸熱した後、ソーピング剤としてP−クリンA
の3ml/lの温度50℃の浴中で10分間ソーピング
処理し、その後水洗し、乾燥した。黄色に捺染した部分
と、染料を添加しない白残しの部分は鮮明に残り黒色に
浸染した部分は純黒として観測され、最も汚染が目立つ
黄色と白色が汚染されず、良好な絣として観測された。
また、染色された糸はケバの発生や繊維の分繊化が見ら
れなかった。
Next, at 100 ° C. in a stainless steel steaming box,
After steaming for 45 minutes, P-clean A was used as a soaping agent.
Was washed in a 3 ml / l bath at a temperature of 50 ° C. for 10 minutes, then washed with water and dried. The yellow-printed part and the white part without dye addition remained sharp and the black-dyeed part was observed as pure black, and the most conspicuous yellow and white were not contaminated and observed as good Kasuri .
In addition, the dyed yarn did not show occurrence of fluff or fiber separation.

【0048】[0048]

【発明の効果】以上説明した通り、本発明によれば、多
色な色相を必要とする絣模様の染色と防染を一つの工程
で同時に行なうことができるうえ、糸の損傷がなく、脱
色できない染料でも使用できるので、適用染料が多く、
既存の設備がそのまま利用でき、簡便に、しかも早く、
安全に染色することができる。そのうえ、括る作業や絣
解きが不要となるため、工程の短縮と省力化、コストダ
ウンが図れ、多品種少量生産に適した染色が可能とな
る。
As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to simultaneously perform dyeing and dyeing of a Kasuri pattern requiring multicolored hues in one step, and furthermore, there is no damage to the yarn and decolorization. Because it is possible to use dyes that cannot be used, there are many applicable dyes,
Existing equipment can be used as it is, easily and quickly,
It can be dyed safely. In addition, since it is not necessary to perform the closing operation and unraveling of the kasuri, the process can be shortened, labor can be saved, and the cost can be reduced.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of the drawings]

【図1】本発明による染色方法の例を示すフローシート
である。
FIG. 1 is a flow sheet showing an example of a dyeing method according to the present invention.

【図2】従来の括り工程を適用した染色方法の例を示す
フローシートである。
FIG. 2 is a flow sheet showing an example of a dyeing method to which a conventional consolidation step is applied.

【手続補正書】[Procedure amendment]

【提出日】平成11年4月5日[Submission date] April 5, 1999

【手続補正1】[Procedure amendment 1]

【補正対象書類名】明細書[Document name to be amended] Statement

【補正対象項目名】特許請求の範囲[Correction target item name] Claims

【補正方法】変更[Correction method] Change

【補正内容】[Correction contents]

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims]

【請求項】 水と共存する状態で、転移温度以上の高
温で疎水性に、転移温度以下の低温で親水性に相転移す
る感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体が4〜8重量部
と、フッ素系撥水撥油剤が15〜25重量部と、染料が
0.5〜2重量部と、架橋剤が0.5〜2重量部と、試
薬が0.5〜2重量部とを61〜79.5の水に溶融ま
たは分散させたことを特徴とする捺染液。
1. A heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative which undergoes a phase transition to be hydrophobic at a high temperature above the transition temperature and hydrophilic at a low temperature below the transition temperature in the coexistence with water, and 4 to 8 parts by weight of a fluorine-based derivative. 61 to 79 parts by weight of 15 to 25 parts by weight of the water and oil repellent, 0.5 to 2 parts by weight of the dye, 0.5 to 2 parts by weight of the crosslinking agent, and 0.5 to 2 parts by weight of the reagent. 5. A printing liquid characterized by being dissolved or dispersed in water of 5.

【請求項】 前記請求項1に記載の捺染液を使用し、
糸に部分的に捺染する工程と、捺染した捺染液を加熱
し、乾燥する工程と、糸に捺染液が乾燥し、付着した状
態で糸の全体に地色を染色する工程と、その後糸を蒸熱
し、水洗いする工程とを有することを特徴とする染色方
法。
2. A printing solution according to claim 1, wherein
A step of partially printing the yarn, a step of heating and drying the printed printing liquid, a step of drying the printing liquid on the yarn and dyeing the entire yarn with a ground color in a state where the yarn is adhered, and thereafter, the yarn is dyed. Steaming and washing with water.

【手続補正2】[Procedure amendment 2]

【補正対象書類名】明細書[Document name to be amended] Statement

【補正対象項目名】0014[Correction target item name] 0014

【補正方法】変更[Correction method] Change

【補正内容】[Correction contents]

【0014】本発明による捺染液は、水と共存する状態
で転移温度以上の高温で疎水性に、転移温度以下の低温
で親水性に相転移する感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導
体を成分とする溶液に、水に希釈、分散し、加熱処理を
行なうと撥水性を有する性状となる撥水撥油剤と、染
料、助剤を分散させたことを特徴とする。この捺染液の
組成は、相転移する感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体
が4〜8重量部と、撥水撥油剤が15〜25重量部と、
染料が0.5〜2重量部と、架橋剤が0.5〜2重量部
と、試薬が0.5〜2重量部とであり、これらを61〜
79.5重量部の水に溶融または分散させたものであ
る。
The printing liquid according to the present invention is a solution containing a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative which undergoes a phase transition to be hydrophobic at a high temperature above the transition temperature in a state coexisting with water and hydrophilic at a low temperature below the transition temperature. And a water- and oil-repellent agent, which becomes water-repellent when diluted and dispersed in water and subjected to a heat treatment, and a dye and an auxiliary agent. Of this printing liquid
The composition is such that the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative undergoing a phase transition is 4 to 8 parts by weight, the water / oil repellent is 15 to 25 parts by weight,
The dye is 0.5 to 2 parts by weight, the crosslinking agent is 0.5 to 2 parts by weight, and the reagent is 0.5 to 2 parts by weight.
It is melted or dispersed in 79.5 parts by weight of water.

【手続補正3】[Procedure amendment 3]

【補正対象書類名】明細書[Document name to be amended] Statement

【補正対象項目名】0032[Correction target item name] 0032

【補正方法】変更[Correction method] Change

【補正内容】[Correction contents]

【0032】(比較例1)前記実施例1において、撥水
撥油剤をアサヒガードAG710の10重量部とした以
外は、同実施例1と同様にして捺染液を手紬糸に捺染
し、熱処理し、蒸熱し、ソーピングし、水洗した。捺染
液の調整時には、粘度が低く、混合はしやすかったが、
すり込み捺染時には、にじみやすく、1cmの幅にすり
込んだにもかかわらず、乾燥後には1.2cmとなり、
絵際が不鮮明になっているのが観測された。また、イル
ガランブラックBGLによる地色の染色時には、黄色に
捺染した部分が黒色に汚染されているのが観測された。
蒸熱、ソーピング、水洗、乾燥の各工程を経た後は、黄
色に印捺された部分が僅かに残っているのが観測され
た。すなわち、絣となる捺染部分はほとんど黒色とな
り、図柄模様とはならず、使用できないことを示した。
[0032] (Comparative Example 1) Example 1, water repellent
The printing liquid was printed on hand-pulled yarn in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the oil repellent was 10 parts by weight of Asahigard AG710, heat-treated, steamed, soaped, and washed with water. When adjusting the printing liquid, the viscosity was low and mixing was easy,
At the time of rub printing, it is easy to bleed, but it is 1.2 cm after drying, despite rubbing in 1 cm width,
It was observed that the picture was blurred. In addition, when the ground color was dyed with Irgaran Black BGL, it was observed that the portion printed in yellow was contaminated with black.
After each of the steps of steaming, soaping, washing and drying, it was observed that a slightly printed portion of yellow remained. In other words, the printed portion that is to be Kasuri was almost black, did not have a pattern, and could not be used.

Claims (3)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 水と共存する状態で、転移温度以上の高
温で疎水性に、転移温度以下の低温で親水性に相転移す
る感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の溶液に撥水撥油
剤、染料及び助剤を分散させたことを特徴とする捺染
液。
1. A water- and oil-repellent agent, a dye and a solution of a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative which undergoes a phase transition to become hydrophobic at a high temperature above the transition temperature and become hydrophilic at a low temperature below the transition temperature in the presence of water. A printing liquid comprising an auxiliary agent dispersed therein.
【請求項2】 水と共存する状態で、転移温度以上の高
温で疎水性に、転移温度以下の低温で親水性に相転移す
る感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体が4〜8重量部
と、フッ素系撥水撥油剤が15〜25重量部と、染料が
0.5〜2重量部と、架橋剤が0.5〜2重量部と、試
薬が0.5〜2重量部とを61〜79.5の水に溶融ま
たは分散させたことを特徴とする捺染液。
2. A heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative which undergoes a phase transition to be hydrophobic at a high temperature above the transition temperature and hydrophilic at a low temperature below the transition temperature in the presence of water, and 4 to 8 parts by weight of a fluorine-based derivative. 61 to 79 parts by weight of 15 to 25 parts by weight of the water and oil repellent, 0.5 to 2 parts by weight of the dye, 0.5 to 2 parts by weight of the crosslinking agent, and 0.5 to 2 parts by weight of the reagent. 5. A printing liquid characterized by being dissolved or dispersed in water of 5.
【請求項3】 前記請求項1または2に記載の捺染液を
使用し、糸に部分的に捺染する工程と、捺染した捺染液
を加熱し、乾燥する工程と、糸に捺染液が乾燥し、付着
した状態で糸の全体に地色を染色する工程と、その後糸
を蒸熱し、水洗いする工程とを有することを特徴とする
染色方法。
3. A step of partially printing a yarn using the printing liquid according to claim 1 or 2, a step of heating and drying the printed printing liquid, and a step of drying the printing liquid on the yarn. And a step of dyeing the entire yarn with a ground color in a state where the yarn is adhered, and thereafter, a process of steaming and washing the yarn with water.
JP10149177A 1998-05-29 1998-05-29 Printing solution and dyeing method Expired - Lifetime JP3001503B2 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP10149177A JP3001503B2 (en) 1998-05-29 1998-05-29 Printing solution and dyeing method

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP10149177A JP3001503B2 (en) 1998-05-29 1998-05-29 Printing solution and dyeing method

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH11335982A true JPH11335982A (en) 1999-12-07
JP3001503B2 JP3001503B2 (en) 2000-01-24

Family

ID=15469488

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
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Country Status (1)

Country Link
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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2003166176A (en) * 2001-11-27 2003-06-13 Ibaraki Prefecture Method for dyeing tying yarn and yarn for woven fabric
KR100395303B1 (en) * 2000-05-16 2003-08-25 김호주 Hank dyeing method
JP2010507024A (en) * 2006-10-20 2010-03-04 ダイキン工業株式会社 Treatment with water and oil repellent
JP2013087373A (en) * 2011-10-14 2013-05-13 Toyota Boshoku Corp Method of producing space dye yarn and space dye yarn
CN114261826A (en) * 2022-01-10 2022-04-01 山东福泰发展集团有限公司 Production process of printed knitted fabric for manufacturing school clothing

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR101886978B1 (en) * 2017-12-06 2018-08-08 강무선 Dyeing method to express pattern by difference of chroma and its dyed goods

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100395303B1 (en) * 2000-05-16 2003-08-25 김호주 Hank dyeing method
JP2003166176A (en) * 2001-11-27 2003-06-13 Ibaraki Prefecture Method for dyeing tying yarn and yarn for woven fabric
JP2010507024A (en) * 2006-10-20 2010-03-04 ダイキン工業株式会社 Treatment with water and oil repellent
JP2013217012A (en) * 2006-10-20 2013-10-24 Daikin Ind Ltd Treatment comprising water-and oil-repellent agent
US9945069B2 (en) 2006-10-20 2018-04-17 Daikin Industries, Ltd. Treatment comprising water- and oil-repellent agent
JP2013087373A (en) * 2011-10-14 2013-05-13 Toyota Boshoku Corp Method of producing space dye yarn and space dye yarn
CN114261826A (en) * 2022-01-10 2022-04-01 山东福泰发展集团有限公司 Production process of printed knitted fabric for manufacturing school clothing

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