DE102004045861B4 - A process for the ring dyeing of textile fabrics of cellulosic fibers and mixed materials containing cellulosic fibers and subsequently produced ring-dyed fabrics and mixed materials - Google Patents

Abstract

method for producing a reproducible ring dyeing on cellulosic fiber fabrics and mixed materials containing cellulosic fibers with direct dyes or reactive dyes, characterized in that after dye application in foulard the dye directly in a continuous or semi-continuous Process fixed on the fabric with cationic aftertreatment agents becomes.

Description

The The present invention relates to a continuous process and semi-continuous production of ring dyeings on textile fabrics such as crocheted, knitted fabrics, fleeces and in particular tissues of cellulosic Fibers and blends containing cellulosic fibers.

The fashion trend is increasingly demanding items that have a wash-down effect or brilliant modifications using this effect. This effect can be obtained by a so-called ring dyeing, ie the fiber is only stained on the surface whereas the inside of the fiber, the core, remains unstained. The core may be undyed or already colored by pretreatment steps. Ring dyeing makes it possible to give cellulosic fibers and mixed materials containing cellulosic fibers, in particular washing and / or bleaching processes, a high-contrast appearance in which a removal or lightening of the initial ring dyeing is achieved. A method for the continuous production of ring dyeings is disclosed, for example, in document DE 42 16 591 described that before the dyeing pretreatment of the fiber in an aqueous liquor of cationic polyquaternary condensation products and phosphoric acid esters provides.

It however, there is a need for a simple method of manufacture of reproducible brilliant ring dyeings on textile fabrics from cellulosic fibers and mixed materials containing cellulosic Fibers.

With The present invention now provides such a method. The invention relates to a method for producing a reproducible ring color on textile fabrics from cellulosic fibers and mixed materials containing cellulosic Fibers with direct dyes or reactive dyes, characterized that after dye application in Foulard the dye directly in a continuous or semi-continuous process on the textile area is fixed with cationic aftertreatment agents.

Subsequently, excess dye and excess aftertreatment agent washed out directly in the continuous or semi-continuous process and the colored ones textile surface is dried and, if necessary, a wash-down treatment subjected.

Of the Process can be carried out continuously or semi-continuously. In the continuous process, the dye applied sheet directly after-treatment and washing. When semi-continuous Process is first the dye is applied and then wound up. After that will the fabric in a further process first aftertreated and then washed.

• 1. Konventionelle Vorbehandlung
• 2. Färben mit Direkt- oder Reaktivfarbstoffen im Foulardprozess
• 3. Kationische Nachbehandlung
• 4. Spülen mit warmem Weichwasser
• 5. Spülen mit kaltem Hartwasser
• 6. Trocknen
• 7. Konfektion
• 8. Wash down Prozesse

The process steps are in detail:

• 1. Conventional pretreatment
• 2. Dyeing with direct or reactive dyes in the padding process
• 3. Cationic aftertreatment
• 4. Rinse with warm soft water
• 5. Rinse with cold hard water
• 6. Drying
• 7. Confection
• 8. Wash down processes

After this the textile fabric from cellulosic fibers or a mixed material containing cellulosic Fibers pretreated, d. H. washed, bleached and possibly desized it is dried, and on a so-called Kaule, a mobile Changing frame for textile surfaces, wound. The textile surface is guided through the foulard trough, there in the liquid dye dipped and followed by a Squeezing squeezed with rubberized rollers. The temperature of the liquid Dye batch is 15 to 80 ° C, preferably 40 to 65 ° C. Decisive is the solubility limit, solvent resistance and the suction behavior of the textile surface. Due to the temperature increase during To dye becomes the solubility limit raised and it can with higher Stained dye concentrations which ultimately leads to deeper staining.

After the dye has been applied, the padding process is completed and the textile surface is continuously fed at a rate of between 5-150 m / min, preferably 30-60 m / min in a washing compartment and treated there cationically. The required contact times are more common 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably between 1 and 2 minutes.

The cationic after-treatment, which is carried out directly, ie without further intermediate treatment, after the dyeing, keeps the dye on the fiber surface of the individual fibers of the textile surface and can not migrate into the interior of the fiber, so that ring dyeings are used, which are used for wash-down effects can be. The effect of the cationic post-treatment agent is as follows:
Direct or reactive dyes have sulfo groups (SO ₃ ), which give the dye its water-soluble properties. These groups are anionic and combine with the cationic groups of the aftertreatment agents. The ionic binding of the cationic agents with the dye causes an increase in molecular size and the dye molecule is enlarged by the binding around the molecule of the cationic agent. Ideally, the cationic agent makes multiple bonds with different dye molecules, resulting in further enlargement of the molecule. The larger the complex between dye molecules and cationic agent, the better the bonding on the fiber surface and the lower the migration to the inside of the fiber. The dye is substantively bound to van der Waals forces in this process at the fiber surface.

ever after desired Washing effect cationic agents are used, the only an ionic bond with the dye or additionally a bond via functional Groups can enter with the cellulose.

The Cationic aftertreatment of the textile surface will vary according to speed and color depth at temperatures between 30 ° C-70 ° C performed. A higher temperature of the treatment process accelerates the reaction speed but carries the risk that more unfixed dye from the textile surface into the Fixer in solution goes and agglomerates with the cationic agent and thus gelatinous fails.

In a preferred embodiment for example a 2% staining an application of 3% aftertreatment agent with a residence time of 1.5 min in the washing compartment at 60 ° C set. The textile surface is squeezed by a Zwischenquetschwerk and passes through it a washing compartment filled with soft water (softened Water) at a temperature of 20 to 80 ° C, preferably 40 ° C-60 ° C and a Residence time of 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 2 minutes. At higher Temperature will increase the wash kinetics and residence times will be shortened.

Of the rinsing serves for rinsing of the unbound dye and cationic aftertreatment agent. After the rinsing process goes through with warm water the textile surface again a Zwischenquetschwerk and then a washing compartment filled with cold hard water. Cold water closes the fiber. The hardeners The hard water, because of its ionic character, additionally provide for a better Binding of the dyes on the fiber.

To the last rinsing process becomes the textile surface squeezed off and dried. The drying can, for example, over heated Steel rolls (cylinder driers) or on a tenter frame, where the textile surface Punched on a needle bar at the edges and heated by hot air Fields led becomes. The textile surface can be made up for further processing after this process and subsequently be edited with wash out effects.

The Drying of the textile surface can, depending on its construction, for example, fleece, knitted fabric, knitted fabric, Tissue, after dyeing, cationic aftertreatment and rinsing on a cylinder dryer (with heated steel rollers), on a tenter (material is stretched on needle bars and led through fields with hot air) or on a sieve belt dryer (material is placed on a sieve belt through fields with hot air guided) carried out become.

The Dye grams of direct dyes and reactive dyes are diverse and allow ring dyeing brilliant colors. For the inventive method needed Dyes that have a substantive bond to the cellulosic surface Fibers enter and with cationic aftertreatment agents complexed. All Direct dyes whose character is always characterized by large, planar molecules is characterized and large molecular Reactive dyes which ideally also have a planar structure are for the method suitable.

The aftertreatment agents are usually compositions based on quaternary ammonium compounds, polyammonium compounds, polyamine derivatives, methylolamide derivatives, dicyanodiamide compounds gen, as well as monofunctional or polyfunctional nitrogen derivatives.

Furthermore can suitable aftertreatment agents further functional groups for Entering have covalent bonds that align with the fiber and the cellulose and thus the dye better to the surface tie the fiber.

To the method according to the invention Ideally, a homogenous product is obtained which is characterized by Remove the at the fiber surface adhering dye and exposing the colored or uncolored core can be modified accordingly. The core can be used, for example, with reactive dyes, with vat dyes, with indigo, with sulfur dyes, direct dyes, or with Be pre-colored Naphtolfarbstoffen.

The "wash down" effect of the colored according to the invention textile fabrics from cellulosic fibers and mixed materials containing cellulosic Fibers can be made visible by, for example, that the outer ring of the yarn by washing or other mechanical and or chemical Stress, such as bleaching, enzyme washing, stoning or combinations of the aforementioned methods, and thereby the precolored or undyed Core comes to light.

object The present invention also includes all textile fabrics (e.g., knitted fabric knits, nonwovens) or made-up thereof Finished parts such as Trousers, shirts, t-shirts, jackets, curtains, upholstery fabrics etc according to the method of the invention colored were.

The The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without restricting them to the dyes or adjuvants used here:

Example 1: continuous process

Article: 100% cotton fabric boiled and bleached

Coloring (foulard)  Cl Direct Blue 199 40 g / l wetting agent 2 ml / l temperature 60 ° C liquor pickup 70 % speed 25 m / min cationic After treatment:  Indosol E 50 fl 40 g / l (cationic Aftertreatment agent) NaCl 40 g / l acetic acid pH 5.5  temperature 60 ° C amount of liquor 1200 l liquor pickup estimated 50 % Masch.typ Doppelschleifenrollenkufe were content approximately 35 m Flottennachsatz 300 l / h Zwischenquetsche To wash with soft water: temperature 60 ° C amount of liquor 1200 l Machine type: Doppelschleifenrollenkufe were content approximately 35 m Zwischenquetsche To wash with hard water:  temperature cold (15 ° C) amount of liquor 50 l Endquetsche dry on the cylinder dryer at about 130 ° C

• Result: turquoise ring-dyed cotton fabric, which can be treated with a wash down procedure.

Example 2: semicontinuous process

Article: 100% cotton - gabardine Fabric boiled and bleached.

Coloring (foulard)  Cl Direct Red 083: 1 45 g / l wetting agent 2 ml / l temperature 60 ° C liquor pickup 60 % speed 25 m / min cationic After treatment: Indosol E 50 fl. 120 g / l (cationic Aftertreatment agent) NaCl 40 g / l acetic acid pH 5.5 temperature 40 ° C liquor pickup 75 % speed 25 m / min roll up stay on Kaule and about 1 hour To wash with soft water: temperature 60 ° C amount of liquor 1200 l machine type Doppelschleifenrollenkufe were content approximately 35 m speed 35 m / min Zwischenquetsche To wash with hard water temperature 20 ° C amount of liquor 1200 l Machine type: Doppelschleifenrollenkufe were content approximately 35 m speed 35 m / min Endquetsche dry on the cylinder dryer at approx. 130 ° C

• Result: red-violet ring dyed gabardine Tissue that can be treated with a wash down procedure.

Example 3: semicontinuous process on pre-colored denim

Article: Indigo core-dyed denim (100% cotton fabric)

Coloring (foulard)  Cl Direct Yellow 086 45 g / l wetting agent 2 ml / l temperature 35 ° C liquor pickup 50 % speed 25 m / min cationic After treatment: Indosol E 50 fl. 120 g / l (cationic Aftertreatment agent) NaCl  40 g / l acetic acid  pH 5.5 temperature  40 ° C liquor pickup  43 % speed  25 m / min roll up on Kaule and linger for about 1 hour To wash with soft water: temperature 60 ° C amount of liquor 1200 l Machine type: Doppelschleifenrollenkufe were content approximately 35 m speed 35 m / min Zwischenquetsche To wash with hard water temperature 20 ° C amount of liquor 1200 l machine type Doppelschleifenrollenkufe were content approximately 35 m speed  35 m / min Endquetsche dry on the cylinder dryer at approx. 130 ° C

• Result: bicolor ring colored yellow / nuclear dyed blue Denim fabric that can be treated with a wash down procedure.

Claims (7)

A process for producing a reproducible ring dyeing on fabrics of cellulosic fibers and mixed materials containing cellulosic fibers with direct dyes or reactive dyes, characterized in that after dye application in the pad the dye is fixed directly in a continuous or semi-continuous process on the fabric with cationic aftertreatment agents. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that both an uncolored, as also one with reactive dyes, with vat dyes, with indigo, with sulfur dyes, direct dyes, or with naphthol dyes prestained cellulosic fiber is used. Method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein as direct or reactive dyes such dyes can be used, which enter into a substantive bond to the fiber surface can and ionic bonds with cationic aftertreatment agents. Method according to one or more of the claims 1 to 3, wherein as cationic aftertreatment agent quaternary ammonium compounds, Polyammonium compounds, polyamine derivatives, methylolamide derivatives, Dicyanodiamide compounds monofunctional or polyfunctional Nitrogen derivatives or related cationic agents are used come. Method according to one or more of the claims 1 to 4 wherein the cationic treatment at temperatures between 30 ° C-70 ° C is performed. Method according to one or more of the claims 1 to 5 wherein the contact times in the cationic treatment 30 seconds to 10 minutes. Colored ring Containing tissues of cellulosic fibers and mixed materials cellulosic fibers obtained by the process according to the invention according to claims 1 to 6 are obtained.