JPH09137331A - Slub yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain slub yarn excellent in natural feeling, soft feeling, passing properties in post-process and draping properties of the obtained cloth by interlocking and blending core yarn with effector yarn containing the ingredients which elutes by the caustic weight reducing treatment in dyeing and finishing process. SOLUTION: This slub yarn is obtained by mixing and interlacing core yarn with effector yarn containing more than 20% based on denier, of filaments composed of the ingredients eluting by the counstic weight reducing treatment at a dyeing and a finishing process. The size of slub is randomly changed in the range of 1.05 to 3.0 times of the non-slub part size and the length of the longest slub part is set at 0.1-30m and the rate of slub part at 15-95wt.%.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a slab yarn in which a core yarn and an effect yarn are mixed and entangled with each other, and a filament composed of a component to be eluted in a part of the effect yarn is dyed and finished. Random and natural thickness unevenness, natural feeling, soft feeling, excellent post-process passability.In addition, in the state of the fabric, a minute gap is formed between the threads for drapeability. A slab yarn that can be improved.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art With respect to a method for producing a slab yarn by a fluid entanglement treatment, a method for producing a slab yarn having a relatively short slab portion by using a rapid return movement (Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-19764).
No. 30023), a method of manufacturing a slab yarn having a relatively long slab portion by intermittently changing the delivery speed (Japanese Patent Publication No. Sho 48-31941) is proposed.

[0003]

However, the slab yarns obtained by these methods all have a short slab length and a sharp change in the thickness of the slab portion. I didn't quite get it because it went against nature.

In order to solve these problems, recently, a slab yarn having a small rate of change in the diameter of a slab portion has been developed. However, in either of these methods,
The supply ratios of the core yarn and the effect yarn were only changed continuously or intermittently, and no matter how the supply ratio was controlled at random, only monotonous yarns lacking natural feeling were obtained.

Further, when a slab yarn obtained by these methods is used to make a woven fabric, the effect yarn supplied in an overfeed state is entangled around the core yarn, so that the swelling is too large, resulting in a so-called fluffy texture. Only woven fabric.

[0006] Therefore, 1000-3000T slab yarn
Although the woven fabric is formed in a state where the swelling is suppressed by applying a strong twist of / m, a woven fabric having a texture lacking in drape property and softness is still obtained.

The present invention eliminates the disadvantages of conventional slab yarns such as the monotonous appearance lacking in natural feeling and the texture lacking in soft feeling, is excellent in natural feeling and soft feeling, and is excellent in post-process passability, An object of the present invention is to provide a slab yarn having a particularly excellent drape property in the state of a cloth.

[0008]

The present invention employs the following means to solve the above-mentioned problems. That is, the present invention is a slab yarn in which a core yarn and an effect yarn are mixed and entangled, and the thickness of the slab portion of the slab yarn is 1. The length of the longest slab portion in the slab portion is 0.1 to 30 m, and the ratio of the slab portion to the slab yarn is 15 to 3.0. It is characterized in that it is in the range of 95% by weight, and that the effect yarn contains 20% or more by denier of filaments composed of components eluted by being subjected to weight reduction treatment in the dyeing and finishing steps. It is a slab thread.

[0009]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below in detail.
In the present invention, since the slab yarn formed by mixing and interlacing the core yarn and the effect yarn contains a filament that is eluted by the weight reduction treatment, the woven fabric composed of this slab yarn is passed through the dyeing / finishing process. As a result, a minute space is created between the threads, and especially the drape property is improved. First, the thickness of the slab portion is 1.
It is necessary to randomly change in the range of 05 to 3.0 times, preferably 1.1 to 2.0 times. When the ratio is less than 1.05 times, only a slab portion that is not evaluated as a slab yarn is formed, which is not preferable. On the other hand, when the ratio exceeds 3.0 times, the post-process permeability (twisting, warping, weaving) deteriorates, which is not preferable. In addition, the slab part refers to the part that connects the thinnest part that is the reference and connects Ushi and Uv
Worcester fluctuation ratio using the ennes tester is expressed by the ratio of the maximum height of the slab and the maximum height of the non-slab.

Next, the length of the longest slab portion is 0.1
It is preferably in the range from m to 30 m, preferably from 0.5 to 10 m. If it is less than 0.1 m, the rate of change in the length of the slab portion is small and the slab pitch changes within the normal weave width, so that the slab becomes monotonous and lacks a natural feeling. On the other hand, if it exceeds 30 m, a striped pattern due to the slab yarn appears on the woven fabric, resulting in a lack of natural feeling, which is not preferable. In particular, this striped pattern is often mistaken for a weaving bar, which is not preferable in that sense.

Further, the occupancy of the slab in the yarn length direction is preferably in the range of 15% to 95% by weight. If it is less than 15% by weight, the occupation ratio of the slab portion in the yarn length direction is too low, and each slab portion becomes conspicuous, and becomes monotonous as a whole, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if it exceeds 95% by weight, the occupation ratio of the slab portion is too high, and the whole becomes monotonous with no change in thickness unevenness.

The filaments composed of the components eluted by the weight reduction treatment in the dyeing / finishing process of the effect yarn have a denier ratio of 20% or more, preferably 40% or more, and preferably 90% or less. Must be included. If the content is less than 20%, the amount of the components eluted by the weight reduction treatment is small even when the weight reduction treatment is performed, the appearance does not change, and the drape property is not improved.

[0013] By the way, the weight loss processing referred to in this specification is
Commonly called caustic soda (sodium hydroxide)
However, the present invention is not limited to the process of reducing the weight of polyester fiber by the method described above. In the case where a minute space or a variation in the weaving density is to be generated between the yarns as in the present invention, a yarn (slab yarn) having a large thickness unevenness in the longitudinal direction that can be visually recognized is used. After the fabric is constrained, it is effective means to remove unevenness in the thickness of the slab yarn in a dyeing / finishing process.
Where the thick portion of the slab yarn is constrained side by side, the density becomes dense, but by eliminating the unevenness in the thickness of the yarn by weight reduction processing, a minute amount of space between the slab yarn and the portion constrained next to it is reduced. Space is created, which results in density variations. Therefore, in order to form a minute space, a filament composed of a component that is eluted by performing a weight reduction treatment in a dyeing / finishing process on a yarn having a thickness unevenness is included in a denier ratio of 20% or more. You have to.

Since any solvent can be used as long as it can elute 20 to 100% of the effect yarn in this way, it is not limited to the above-described weight reduction processing using common caustic soda. Therefore, it can be said that the solvent is determined by the type of the effect yarn.For example, if the filament is soluble in an alkaline solution such as polyester, an alkaline solution such as caustic soda is used as the solvent, and if the filament is soluble in an acidic solution such as rayon, the acid is used. The solution becomes the solvent. Further, if a filament such as a water-soluble vinylon soluble in water is an effective yarn, water is a solvent. Again, the filament composed of the component of the effect yarn but eluted in the dyeing / finishing process by the solvent has a denier ratio of 20%
There is no particular limitation as long as it is included, but polyester,
Multifilaments such as nylon, acetate and rayon, especially multifilaments such as polyester are preferred. The core yarn is not particularly limited, but polyester is preferable. The polyester referred to in the present invention includes polyethylene terephthalate, polyesters such as polycyclohexadimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polyoxyethoxybenzoate, as well as copolyesters mainly composed of repeating units of the above polyester, for example, metal bases. 7% by mole or less of an ester-forming component having a cationic dye dyeable copolyester obtained by copolymerization.

Now, the method for producing the slab yarn of the present invention will be described. First, the core yarn and the effect yarn are aligned and supplied to the fluid disrupter. At this time, the effect yarn contains 20% or more of a filament eluted by the weight reduction treatment in a denier ratio. Then, the effect yarn is supplied to the disturbing device in a steady state, preferably with an overfeed of + 0% with respect to the core yarn, and while the effect yarn is changed from the steady state by, for example, an inverter motor or an intermittent suction device, The slab yarn is manufactured by supplying the slab yarn to the agitator. The slab yarn thus produced is used for fancy fabrics and the like.

[0016]

【Example】

Example 1 A polyester multifilament yarn having a round cross section of 100 denier / 36f was used as a core yarn, and 50 denier / 36 was used as an effect yarn.
A slab yarn was produced using the readily soluble cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn of item f in the apparatus of FIG. 1 under the following conditions. Condition: Effect Surface speed of yarn feed roller 6 ... 160 to 255 m / min Surface speed of core yarn feed roller 5 ... 158 m / min Surface velocity of drawing roller 11 ... 150 m / min Air pressure of fluid disturbing device 10 ... 6 kg / cm ² G Furthermore, the surface speed of the effect yarn feed roller 6 was changed by the inverter motor 7 to form a slab yarn.

The obtained slab yarn has a slab portion having an average length of 3.0 m in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, the longest slab portion has a length of 28 m, and the ratio of the slab portion in the slab yarn is 2%.
It was 0% by weight. The ratio of the thickness of the slab to the thickness of the non-slab was 2.1 times. Then, after giving 1200 t / m of twist to this slab yarn, weaving a boil with a warp density of 84 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 58 yarns / inch for both warp and weft, and dyeing and finishing at a weight loss rate of 15% And the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1.

For comparison, a yarn processed in the same manner as in Example 1 was used except that a regular polyester multifilament yarn (50 denier / 36f) was used as the effect yarn instead of the effect yarn of Example 1. The fabric was woven and subjected to dyeing finishing with a weight loss rate of 15%, and its physical properties are shown in Table 1.

[0019]

[Table 1]

The following is confirmed from Table 1. That is, the woven fabric of Example 1 had a natural appearance and a soft texture rich in drape. Further, a gap was formed between the yarns due to the elution of the readily soluble filaments, and the density was moderately varied thereby, resulting in a very natural appearance. On the other hand, the one of Comparative Example 1 lacked the drape property, had a hard texture, and had a very artificial appearance where the warp and the weft were regularly arranged.

In this specification, the drapability and the texture were evaluated by the following methods. As for the texture, RT indicates a tensile recovery rate (%) and RC indicates a compression recovery rate (%). Drapeability Drape tester made by Shimadzu (Sample 254mmφ, substrate
It was measured at 127 mmφ and a rotation speed of 1 rpm.

Texture The texture was measured using a KES texture measuring instrument (F series, manufactured by Kato Iron Works).

From Table 1, it is shown that the tensile recovery rate (%) RT is softer in Example 1 because it is larger than Comparative Example 1, and the compression recovery rate (%) RC in Example 1 is higher than Comparative Example 1. The large size indicates a high resilience, and the texture is better.

Example 2 A polyester multifilament yarn having a round cross section of 100 denier / 36f was used as a core yarn, and a multifilament yarn containing a cationic dye dyeable polyester multifilament yarn having good solubility as an effect yarn (Table 2). A slab yarn was produced using the apparatus of FIG. 1 under the same conditions as in Example 1.

[0025]

[Table 2]

The obtained slab yarn shows a form having a slab portion having substantially the same length as in Example 1, the proportion of the slab portion in the slab yarn is 25% by weight, and the slab portion is different from the thickness of the non-slab portion. The thickness ratio was 2.3 times. Then
After twisting this slab yarn at 1000 T / m, weaving a voile having a warp density of 78 threads / in and a weft density of 54 threads / in, dyeing and finishing at a weight loss rate of 15%, and then drapeability and texture. Was measured under the same conditions as in Example 1, and the slip resistance of the warp and the weft was evaluated by the handling of 10 sensory inspectors, and the appearance was also visually judged by 10 people. Table 3 shows the results.

[0027]

[Table 3]

The following is confirmed from Table 3. That is, when the proportion of the easily soluble component in the effect yarn was less than 20%, the feeling was hardly affected even if the easily soluble component was added to the effect yarn, and the appearance was artificial. On the other hand, when the proportion of the readily soluble component in the effect yarn exceeds 20% (Nos. 2 to 5), the texture, drape property and appearance are all good,
No. As for No. 5, the slip resistance was slightly deteriorated.

[0029]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION The slab yarn of the present invention has natural gaps between yarns and a long slab portion, is excellent in post-process passability, and has a drape property and a soft texture when formed into a woven fabric or the like. It has an excellent natural appearance.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a slab yarn manufacturing apparatus of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 P1, P2 Pane 1, 2, 3, 4 Guide 5 Core yarn feed roller 6 Effect yarn feed roller 7 Inverter motor 8 Control device 9 Fluid scraping device 10 Drawing roller 11 Package 12 Winding roller Y1 Effective yarn Y2 Core yarn

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A slab yarn in which a core yarn and an effect yarn are mixed and entangled, and a thickness of a slab portion of the slab yarn is 1.05 with respect to a thickness of a non-slab portion of the slab yarn. To 3.0 times randomly, the length of the longest slab portion of the slab portion is in the range of 0.1 to 30 m, and the proportion of the slab portion in the slab yarn is 15 to 95. A slab having a denier ratio of 20% or more of filaments composed of components eluted by weight reduction treatment in the dyeing and finishing steps in the weight% range. yarn. 2. The slab yarn according to claim 1, wherein the filaments composed of components eluted by being subjected to the weight reduction treatment in the dyeing and finishing steps are contained in a denier ratio of 40% or more.