JPH0791708B2 - Method for producing crimped yarn having large and thin thickness - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION <Industrial field of application> The present invention provides a woven or knitted product having a large fineness difference and a crimp difference in the longitudinal direction of yarns and having a clear thin appearance with a faint tone. The present invention relates to a method for producing a crimped yarn having a large thickness, which can be easily threaded and has excellent workability.

<Prior Art> Conventionally, a method for producing a polyester crimped yarn having a large fineness portion and a fineness portion along the longitudinal direction of the yarn is already well known.

For example, the present inventors also have a birefringence (Δn) of 15 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 ×.
A highly oriented polyester unoriented yarn of about 10 ^-3 is subjected to shrinkage heat treatment, and then water or an aqueous liquid is intermittently attached to perform false twisting. Japanese Patent Application No. 172938/1984 for a method for producing a thick and fine textured yarn having a fineness portion where an aqueous liquid does not adhere.
No. 60-262242. This method
Although it was intended to improve the drawbacks of the conventional method for producing a crimped yarn having a large thickness, as described above, it requires the steps of shrinkage heat treatment-intermittent adhesion of water or aqueous liquid-false twisting process, For example, in the case of using a commercially available false twisting machine, the supply yarn is first guided from the upper feeding roller of the false twisting machine to the second heater section and subjected to shrinkage heat treatment, and then to the second delivery roller at the bottom of the machine stand. After water or water-based liquid is attached between the feed rollers on the machine stand, it is guided to the feed roller on the machine stand again, and the false twisting process is performed on the first heater section, which complicates the yarn path. However, it was complicated and required skill. Moreover, in this method, since the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn of the supplied yarn is first subjected to shrinkage heat treatment, each filament produces partial shrinkage unevenness in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the straight filament is crimped. The filament has loop-like fluff, and as a result, the yarn is easily wound around the roller portion, and there remains a problem that processing operability is deteriorated.

<Problems to be Solved by the Invention> The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks of the manufacturing method.
The purpose of this is to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with a clear and thin appearance with a faint tone, and to have a large and thin shape that simplifies the processing process, facilitates threading, and has excellent processing operability. It is to provide a method for producing crimped yarn.

<Means for Solving Problems> That is, according to the present invention, the birefringence (Δn) is 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 ×.
Water or aqueous liquid is intermittently adhered to the polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn of 10 ^-3 , and then the drawing false twisting process is continuously performed in a non-contact state with the heating device to remove the portion where the water or aqueous liquid adheres. A method for producing a crimped yarn having a large thickness is characterized in that a portion to which water or an aqueous liquid is not adhered is a fineness portion in the thickness portion, and a method for producing a crimped yarn having a thinness is a gist of the first invention. Further, water or an aqueous liquid was intermittently adhered to a highly oriented polyester unoriented yarn having a birefringence (Δn) of 20 × 10 ^-3 to 80 × 10 ^-3 , and continuously continuously in a non-contact state with a heating device. By drawing false twisting, the part where water or aqueous liquid is attached becomes the fineness part,
A second aspect of the present invention is a method for producing a crimped yarn having a large thickness, which is characterized in that a shrinkage heat treatment is performed after a fineness portion is formed on a portion to which water or an aqueous liquid is not attached. .

As a method similar to the method of the present invention, a mechanical method of intermittently contacting the heating body can be considered, but in this case, the heat conduction time becomes a problem and it takes time to receive and radiate the yarn. ， Not only does the thick section become extremely long,
Since the fine-thinness portion is gradually made finer, the boundary between the thick-fineness portion and the fine-fineness portion is not clear, and the apparent diameter ratio becomes small. Further, since the filament is directly contacted with the heating element, the filament is easily melted and its processing is difficult.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

First, in the method of the present invention, the birefringence Δn is 20 × 10 ⁻³
Water or aqueous liquid is intermittently adhered to 80 × 10 ^-3 polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn. In this case, if the birefringence Δn of the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn is less than 20 × 10 ^-3 , if water or aqueous liquid is intermittently attached to this, water or aqueous liquid will be attached in the subsequent drawing false twisting process. The thickened portion becomes a large fineness portion, but the birefringence of this large fineness portion remains less than 20 × 10 ^{-3, and} as a result of false twisting, part of the filament is melted or fuzz occurs frequently. It will be. The resulting crimped yarn is not preferable because it has many fluffs, making it difficult to weave and knit, and also making the large fineness portion brittle during thermal processing such as dyeing processing. On the other hand, the birefringence is 80 × 10
^If it exceeds ^-3 , the degree of orientation becomes close to that of the drawn yarn, and the difference between the part where water or aqueous liquid is attached and the part where it is not attached is not clear, so it is not possible to increase the yarn thickness ratio. .

Even with highly oriented polyester unoriented yarn with a birefringence of 20 × 10 ^-3 〜 80 × 10 ^-3 , the relaxation degree decreases when the relaxation heat treatment is applied, causing shrinkage unevenness in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, resulting in filaments. As described above, since crimps and loops are generated, the drawn false-twisting process clings to the roller and becomes unstable, and the workability decreases.

Here, the aqueous liquid is a liquid containing 50% by weight or more of water, and substances other than water include a surfactant, a dyeing aid, and
Examples include rust preventives.

Further, in order to intermittently attach water or an aqueous liquid (hereinafter referred to as liquid) to the yarn, a method of attaching using a gear type deformable rotating roller provided with a protrusion on the roller surface, an intermittent reciprocating motion of an electromagnetic solenoid Any method can be used as long as the liquid can be intermittently adhered to the yarn at an appropriate length, such as a method of contacting and adhering to the liquid adhered to the roller surface with a micro computer and a random pulse generating unit. The combined use method is particularly suitable because liquids can be attached at random intervals and lengths.

Next, the yarn to which the liquid was intermittently adhered as described above was continuously subjected to draw false twisting in a non-contact state with a heating device, and the portion to which the liquid was adhered was made into a large fineness portion. ， The part where liquid is not attached is the fineness part.

This draw false twisting process needs to be performed in a non-contact state in order to enhance the heat shielding effect of the liquid attached to the yarn. In other words, in this case, when the yarn is brought into contact with the heating device and subjected to draw false twisting, the portion to which the liquid adheres receives the squeezing effect due to the contact friction of the surface of the heating device, causing the water to flow down and the liquid to adhere. The portion subjected to the same heat treatment as the portion to which the liquid does not adhere is subjected to the stretch false twisting process in the same manner, and is subjected to the combined deformation of tension and twist. As a result, the thick / fine fineness ratio targeted by the present invention is obtained. It is not preferable because a large wound yarn cannot be obtained.

The draw ratio of the draw false twisting process is preferably in the range of 1.2 to 3.0 times. When the draw ratio is less than 1.2, the part to which no liquid is attached receives only low tension and twist deformation due to the draw false twisting process, and it is thick and thin. It may not be possible to obtain a crimped yarn having a large fineness ratio. On the other hand, if the draw ratio exceeds 3.0, a part of the filament will be out of tension and yarn breakage will occur, resulting in poor operability. The temperature at the time of drawing false twisting depends on the yarn speed, but is preferably 140 to 230 ° C in the range of the yarn speed of 80 to 200 m / min, for example.

In addition, the false twist number T (times / m) in false twist processing is T√D ≦ 28
000 (D is the denier of the supplied yarn) is preferable,
If the false twist number T (turns / m) exceeds 28000 / √D, yarn breakage occurs, which is not preferable in operation. On the other hand, the lower limit of the false twist number is not particularly limited, but if it is too low, the number of crimps is reduced and the bulkiness is reduced. Therefore, the false twist number T (times / m) is 1
It is preferably 0000 / √D or more.

Thus, since the portion of the yarn to which the liquid is attached is not subjected to the heat effect during the drawing false twisting process, there is almost no tensile deformation or twisting deformation, and it becomes an extremely thick large-fineness portion.
The part to which the liquid does not adhere is subjected to a heat action and is sufficiently stretched to become a fineness part, and a crimped yarn having a large thickness and fineness ratio, in which the difference between the fineness and the fineness is clear. Here, since the large fineness portion is hardly affected by the stretching action, it becomes a deep dyeing portion,
In addition, the fineness portion is sufficiently stretched and becomes a light dyeing portion.

By performing a relaxation heat treatment after drawing false twisting and before winding, the fineness portion can be expanded and contracted to be thicker than the supplied yarn, and the thickness portion and the fineness portion can be combined. The difference in heat shrinkage performance can be reduced and a crimped yarn with stable torque can be obtained.

In this case, the relaxation heat treatment is effectively performed by bringing the yarn into contact with the heating device. The relaxation heat treatment temperature may be the same as or higher than the temperature at the time of drawing false twisting. For example, 140 to 250 ° C. is suitable when the yarn speed is in the range of 80 to 200 m / min.

The relaxation rate may be appropriately selected within a range that does not cause thread breakage. The relaxation rate is 0 to 70%, preferably 10 to 40%.
Is appropriate.

In this way, the liquid remaining in the thick fine portion of the yarn can be further vaporized, and at the same time, the thick fine portion can be heated to significantly reduce the heat shrinkage performance of the thick fine portion. Further, by this relaxation heat treatment, the large fineness portion becomes thicker due to the contracting action corresponding to the relaxation rate, and a clearer fineness portion can be obtained.

FIG. 1 is a process schematic view showing an example of the manufacturing process of the method of the present invention. In FIG. 1, the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn F drawn from the spool 1 passes through the guide 2 and the feed roller 3 and is fed. After that, the liquid is applied intermittently by the liquid applying device 4 by a random signal from the micro computer, and subsequently drawn between the feed roller 3 and the first delivery roller 7 at a predetermined draw ratio, and at the same time, the false twisting and twisting device 6 While being heated by the first heating device 5, it is heat-fixed in a non-contact state by the first heating device 5, passed through the first delivery roller 7, and wound by the winding roller 10 into the package 11.

FIG. 2 is a process schematic view showing another example of the manufacturing process of the method of the present invention, in which a relaxation heat treatment process is added to the manufacturing process shown in FIG. In this case, the yarn that has been subjected to the draw false twisting process in the same manner as in FIG. 1 passes through the first delivery roller 7 and
The first delivery roller 7 and the second delivery roller 9 are relaxed, heat-treated by the second heating device 8 in a non-contact state, and passed through the second delivery roller 9 and the winding roller 10.
Is wound up on the package 11.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view showing an example of a crimped yarn having a large and small thickness according to the method of the present invention. In FIG. 3, a is a large fineness portion where liquid is attached and deformation by false false twist is small, and b is In the fineness portion having crimps that have undergone draw false twist deformation without adhering a liquid, these fineness portions a and fineness portions b are alternately formed along the longitudinal direction of the yarn.

The polyester in the present invention is a generic name for polyesters having an ester bond in the molecular chain represented by polyethylene terephthalate and also includes modified polyesters containing a third component such as isophthalic acid and paraoxyethoxybenzoic acid.

The birefringence Δn is a value measured by an interference fringe measuring method using a polarization microscope compensator.

<Operation> As described above, according to the method of the present invention, the heating device is subjected to intermittent liquid treatment in a non-contact state, followed by drawing false twisting process, and utilizing the heat shielding effect of the liquid of the yarn to increase the thickness. The crimped yarn is obtained in which the difference between the fineness portion and the fineness portion is clear.

Since the polyester high distribution undrawn yarn to which the liquid is intermittently applied is suddenly subjected to drawn false twisting,
The processing process is simplified, and threading is easier than the method of performing loosening heat treatment on the supplied yarn, then performing intermittent liquid treatment, and drawing false twisting.

In addition, since the stretched false twist process is performed suddenly by intermittent liquid treatment without relaxation heat treatment, the degree of orientation of the large fineness portion is higher than that of the method of relaxation heat treatment, and as a result, high strength is maintained. Excellent workability.

Furthermore, when the relaxation heat treatment is performed after the drawing false-twisting process, the large fineness portion is subjected to a shrinking action corresponding to the relaxation rate to increase the fineness and the heat shrinkage performance of the large fineness portion and the fineness fineness portion is also increased. It is about the same, and a crimped yarn having a stable torque and a large thickness can be obtained.

<Example> Hereinafter, the method of the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples. In the following examples, the thread diameter ratio of the large fineness portion and the fineness fine portion is
The thread diameter of the fine and fine parts is 300 (times / time) under a load of 0.3 g / d.
It is the ratio of the thread diameter of the fineness section to the thread diameter of the fineness section measured by a microscope with a twist and a scale.

Example Polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn 110d / 36f having a birefringence Δn of 51 × 10 ⁻³ obtained by high speed spinning was subjected to intermittent liquid deposition under the processing conditions shown in Table 1 according to the process shown in FIG. And a false false twisting process (a mechanical spindle is used as a false twisting and twisting device) to produce a crimped yarn having a large thickness according to the method of the present invention.

The yarn hooking during this production was easy, no filament cracking or fluffing was observed during false twisting, and the yarn breakage rate (100 cones x 1 hour) was good at 0.12 times.

The obtained crimped yarn was a crimped yarn having a large fineness portion (dark dyeing portion) and a fineness fine portion (light dyeing portion) shown in Table 2 at random intervals in the longitudinal direction.

This thick crimped yarn was additionally twisted 800 times / m (Z direction) and woven into a plain woven fabric with a warp density of 85 yarns / 2.54cm and a weft yarn density of 78 yarns / 2.54cm. No fluff or filament cracking was observed in the part, and weavability was good.

The resulting fabric had a thick and clear appearance with a clear hazy tone.

Example 2 Polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn 110d / 36f having birefringence Δn of 51 × 10 ⁻³ obtained by high speed spinning was subjected to the process shown in FIG. 2 and the intermittent liquid deposition under the processing conditions shown in Table 3. ，
Stretching false twisting and relaxation heat treatment were performed to produce a crimped yarn having a large thickness according to the method of the present invention.

Threading during manufacturing was easy and processing operability was good.

As shown in Table 4, the obtained crimped yarn has an extremely large thick / fine fineness ratio, a small difference in heat shrinkage performance between the large fineness portion and the fineness portion, and a crimped yarn having more stable torque. Met.

This crimped yarn is twisted 1200 times / m (S, Z direction) and used alternately for S and Z 2 warps and wefts. Warp density 85 yarns / 2.54 cm,
When weaving a plain weave with a weft density of 78 threads / 2.54 cm, the weavability was good.

The obtained fabric was processed according to the usual polyester dyeing treatment and finished with alkali reduction at a weight loss rate of 15%.
A product was obtained that had a difference in dyeing density and had a clear and thick appearance even after bleaching.

(Effect of the Invention) As described above, in the method of the present invention, the liquid is intermittently treated in the heating device in a non-contact state, and subsequently the drawn false twisting process is performed. The crimped yarn having a high thickness, a large difference in the fineness and the fineness, and a large ratio of the fineness and fineness can be obtained. Therefore, the woven or knitted product obtained from the crimped yarn according to the method of the present invention has a clear frosted appearance due to the large fineness portion. And due to intermittent liquid adhesion,
Since the fineness unevenness of the yarn is revealed, the adhesion of the liquid can be adjusted arbitrarily by using a micro computer, and the crimped yarn that can freely change the pattern pattern and the feeling of the woven or knitted fabric can be easily manufactured. You can

Moreover, in the method of the present invention, liquid is immediately and intermittently adhered to the supply yarn, and the stretch false twisting process is continuously performed. Compared to the twisting method, the processing process is simplified and thread hooking is extremely easy. In addition, because of this structure, the strength of the thick fine portion of the crimped yarn obtained does not decrease, while the fine fine portion is extremely stretched and false twisted to maintain high strength and to be subjected to shrinkage heat treatment. Since straight filaments are subjected to intermittent liquid treatment without being drawn and drawn false twisting is immediately performed, filamentation cracks, fluffs, yarn breaks, etc. do not occur and processing operability is excellent.

In particular, when the relaxation heat treatment is performed after the drawing false twisting process and before winding, the thick fineness ratio can be further increased, and the heat shrinkability of the large fineness part can be made similar to that of the fineness part. A crimped yarn having a stable torque can be obtained, and a woven or knitted fabric having a clean surface can be obtained by the crimped yarn.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic process diagram showing an example of the manufacturing process of the method of the present invention, FIG. 2 is a schematic process diagram showing another example of the manufacturing process of the method of the present invention, and FIG. It is an external appearance schematic diagram which shows an example of a crimped yarn. In the figure, 1 is a spool, 2 is a guide, 3 is a feed roller, 4 is a liquid applying device, 5 is a first heating device, 6 is a false twisting and twisting device, 7 is a first delivery roller, 8 is a second heating device, and 9 is The second delivery roller, 10 is a winding roller, 11 is a package F is a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn, a is a large fineness portion, and b is a fineness portion.

Continuation of the front page (56) Reference JP-A-57-191334 (JP, A) JP-A-59-26535 (JP, A) JP-A-60-59145 (JP, A) JP-A-57-199826 (JP , A)

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. Water or an aqueous liquid is intermittently adhered to highly oriented polyester unoriented yarn having a birefringence (Δn) of 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ , and then continuously applied to a heating device. A winding having a thin and thin shape, characterized in that a portion to which water or an aqueous liquid adheres is a fine-definition portion, and a portion to which water or an aqueous liquid does not adhere is a fine-definition portion by drawing false twisting in a contact state. Manufacturing method of crimped yarn. 2. A highly oriented unoriented polyester yarn having a birefringence (Δn) of 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ is intermittently adhered with water or an aqueous liquid, and continuously applied to a heating device. In the contact state, the drawing false-twisting process is performed, and the part to which the water or the aqueous liquid is attached becomes the large fineness part, and the part to which the water or the aqueous liquid is not attached becomes the fineness part, and then the shrinkage heat treatment is performed. A method for producing a crimped yarn having a large thickness.