JPH06341027A - Production of conjugate crimped yarn having slub effect - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To produce conjugate crimped yarn capable of imparting a cloth with distinct slub effect and bulkiness having soft feeling. CONSTITUTION:An aqueous liquid is intermittently applied to highly oriented undrawn polyester yarn having a single fiber fineness of <=3d. The fiber is heat-treated under drawing and subjected to false-twisting at a false-twist number (T/M) of (15000-25000)/D<1/2> (D is the denier of yarn after drawing) under over-feeding. The obtained false-twisted crimped yarn is interlaced by pneumatic interlacing with drawn yarn having a hot-water shrinkage of >=15% and higher than that of the false-twisted crimped yarn by >=10% and a maximum thermal stress of >=0.3g/d.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a composite crimped yarn capable of imparting a clear thick and thin effect and a bulkiness having a soft texture to a cloth.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art As a method for producing a yarn having alternating fineness and fineness along the longitudinal direction of the yarn, for example, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 63-50520 discloses a highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn. There is disclosed a method in which water or an aqueous liquid is intermittently adhered to, and subsequently, heat treatment is performed while stretching and then false twisting is performed to obtain a yarn having a clear thick and thin effect. However, although the yarn obtained by this method is a crimped yarn,
Since it is false twisted so that the thick part does not decrease, it has a low crimping property.
In particular, when the fineness of the single yarn becomes thin, the drawback was remarkable.

Further, the inventors of the present invention have a patent application for a method for producing a highly shrinkable shade dyeable yarn by subjecting a crimped yarn having a difference in shade dyeing property and a yarn having a high heat shrinkage to an air entanglement treatment. Proposed in No. 3-353673. However, the yarn obtained by this method is
There was no thick part in any part, and even if the yarn was made bulky by the high heat-shrinkable yarn, all parts were made evenly bulky, so the thickening effect could not be expected.

[0004]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks, and a composite crimped yarn having a thick and thin effect capable of imparting a thick and thin effect and a bulkiness having a soft texture to a fabric at the same time. It is a technical subject to provide a manufacturing method of the above.

[0005]

Means for Solving the Problems As a result of intensive studies for solving the above-mentioned problems, the inventors of the present invention have found that a thin thin yarn having a single fineness is false-twisted at a specific false twist number By subjecting a yarn having a high heat shrinkage stress and a heat shrinkage factor to a fluid entanglement treatment, when the resulting composite crimped yarn is subjected to a heat treatment such as a dyeing process, a crimp in a thick portion is remarkably exhibited. The present invention has been achieved by finding that the thick and thin effect is more emphasized.

That is, according to the present invention, water or an aqueous liquid is intermittently adhered to a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn having a single yarn fineness of 3d or less, followed by heat treatment while being drawn,
The number of false twists (T / M) is in the range of (15000 to 25000) / D ^1/2 (D is the yarn fineness after drawing: denier), and false twisting is performed while overfeeding. Twisted crimped yarn and hot water shrinkage ratio is 10% or more larger than the false twisted crimped yarn.
It has a hot water shrinkage of 15% or more and a maximum thermal stress value of 0.3.
The gist is a method for producing a composite crimped yarn having a thick and thin effect, which is characterized in that a drawn yarn of g / d or more is fluidly entangled.

The present invention will be described in detail below.

As the supply yarn in the present invention, it is necessary to use polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn having a single yarn fineness of 3d or less. When the single yarn fineness exceeds 3d, it is not possible to give the fabric a soft texture. In addition, the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn can be made to have a thin and thick yarn by the intermittent heat treatment and drawing described later, and the birefringence Δ
The n is preferably in the range of 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ .

In the present invention, first, water or an aqueous liquid is intermittently adhered to the above-mentioned supply yarn and heat treatment is performed while stretching. By this treatment, the portion to which the liquid adheres is difficult to be stretched because heat is not applied to the yarn, and the portion to which the liquid does not adhere is preferentially stretched, so that a thick and thin yarn can be obtained. In this case, it is preferable that the adhesion length of each liquid does not exceed the heater length, and the total length of the liquid adhesion portion is 25% or less of the yarn. Furthermore, the heater temperature is 100 m / mi for the yarn speed.
When n is 180 ° C. to 230 ° C., the draw ratio is preferably 1.2 times to 1.7 times.

Next, the thick and thin yarn obtained as described above is subjected to false twisting in an overfeed state, and crimping is given without impairing the thick and thin effect. In false twisting, it is important to set the number of false twists, and the number of false twists (T / M) is (15000 to 25000) / D ^1/2
It is necessary to be within the range. False twist number is 15000 / D
^{If it} is less than ^1/2 , the crimp shape is too gentle, and even if it is subjected to heat treatment such as dyeing, it cannot be expected to be bulky due to the appearance of crimp. Further, when the false twist number exceeds 25000 / D ^1/2 , the thick portion is stretched due to the twist deformation of the false twist even in the overfeed state, and the thick and thin effect is reduced. The overfeed state here is a state in which a value obtained by multiplying the value obtained by subtracting the drawing speed from the feeding speed to the false twisting process by the drawing speed by 100 is more than 0%, preferably 2 to 15%.
The state of%. Also, the heater temperature may be selected from the range of 170 ° C to 240 ° C at which the crimp can be fixed.

The thick and thin false twist crimped yarn obtained above is a false twist with a specific number of twists,
Almost the same twist is inserted in both the thick part and the detail, and the thick part is processed with a high number of twists, so that the crimped form is finer than the crimped form with the coarse details.

In the present invention, the false twist crimped yarn obtained above is used, and the maximum heat shrinkage stress is 0.3 g / d or more, and the hot water shrinkage ratio is 10% or more, 15% or more than the yarn. Mixed with the drawn yarn having the hot water shrinkage ratio by the fluid entanglement treatment,
A composite crimped yarn having a desired thickness is obtained.

When the false-twisted crimped yarns having different crimped forms in the thick portion and the detail and the drawn yarns having the above-mentioned physical properties are entangled with each other and the resulting composite crimped yarn is heat-treated to shrink the entire yarn, In the details, since the coarse crimps appear, the bulkiness increases greatly due to the shrinkage, but the thick part where the fine crimps appear is the thicker part because the bulkiness due to the appearance of the crimps is synergized in addition to the bulkiness due to the shrinkage. Is emphasized, and the thick and thin effect becomes clearer.

In order to impart a clear thick and thin effect and bulkiness to a fabric using the composite crimped yarn by heat treatment such as dyeing at the same time, the drawn yarn to be entangled with the false twist crimped yarn has the above-mentioned physical properties. Must have a maximum heat shrinkage stress of 0.3
If it is less than g / d, the fabric cannot be sufficiently shrunk due to being constrained by the tissue. If the hot water shrinkage of the drawn yarn is less than 15% or the difference of the hot water shrinkage is less than 10%, the crimps in the thick portion cannot be sufficiently raised on the surface of the fabric.

The drawn yarn having the above characteristics can be obtained, for example, by spinning and drawing a polyethylene terephthalate-based copolyester obtained by copolymerizing an isophthalic acid component in an amount of 10 mol%. The fineness and single yarn fineness of the drawn yarn are not particularly limited, but it is preferable that the yarn fineness is thinner and the single yarn fineness is thicker than the false twist crimped yarn.

The fluid injection nozzle used when the two yarns are subjected to the fluid entanglement treatment may be either an interlace system or a Taslan system.

Next, the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. Figure 1
FIG. 3 is a schematic process diagram showing an embodiment of the present invention. Figure 1
In the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 1 drawn out from the spool, water or an aqueous liquid is intermittently adhered by the liquid applying device 4 via the guide 2 and the feed roller 3, and the feed roller 3 and the first delivery roller 6 are separated from each other. In the meantime, the first heater 5 carries out heat drawing at a predetermined draw ratio.

The drawn yarn is fed to the first delivery roller 6
The second heater 7 and the false twisting and twisting device 8 perform false twisting in the overfeed state between the second delivery roller 9 and the second delivery roller 9 and then align the drawn yarn 14 drawn from the pan through the guide 15 with the drawn yarn 14. After being air-entangled by the air-entanglement device 10 between the second delivery roller 9 and the third delivery roller 11, the winding roller 12 takes up the package 13.

2 and 3 are schematic external views showing one embodiment of the thick portion and details of the composite crimped yarn obtained by the present invention, and FIG.
Fig. 5 and Fig. 5 are external schematic views showing the state after the thick portion and the detail shown in Fig. 2 and Fig. 3 are subjected to boiling water treatment, respectively. It can be seen that the difference between the thick portion and the detail becomes clearer by the boiling water treatment. .
In the figure, a is a thick false-twisted crimped yarn, b is an interlaced portion of the false-twisted crimped yarn and the drawn yarn, c is a drawn yarn, and d is a detailed false-twisted crimped yarn.

[0020]

In the present invention, water or an aqueous liquid is intermittently adhered to a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn and hot drawn, and then false twisting is performed. It is possible to obtain a false twist crimped yarn in which the attached portion is thick and the non-attached portion is detailed.

In addition, the false twist crimped yarn obtained above has a hot water shrinkage of 15% or more, which is greater than that of the false twisted crimped yarn by 15% or more, and has the maximum thermal stress. Since the fluid is entangled with the drawn yarn having a value of 0.3 g / d or more, if the obtained composite crimped yarn is knitted and woven and subjected to a heat treatment such as dyeing, the drawn yarn is thermally contracted without being restricted by the knitting structure. As a result, the crimp of the crimped yarn is developed, and the fabric can be imparted with bulkiness.

Further, since a specific false twist number is adopted in the false twisting process, it is possible to obtain a yarn having both a thick and thin effect due to a difference in fineness and a bulky effect due to crimping.

[0023]

EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples.

Examples 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to ³ Highly oriented undrawn yarn 110d / 72f having a birefringence index Δn of 58.2 × 10 ^-3 obtained by high-speed spinning of polyethylene terephthalate was used as a supply yarn, and the process shown in FIG. According to the above, the liquid was supplied to the feed roller in accordance with the above, and a liquid applying device using a microcomputer and a random pulse generator together was used to intermittently adhere water along the longitudinal direction of the yarn so that the water adhering portion became 12.5%, After the drawing heat treatment with the first heater temperature of 215 ° C and the draw ratio of 1.532 times, the second heater temperature of 170 ° C and the false twist number of 2010 ^Z T /
A false twisting process was performed at M and an overfeed rate of 6% (Example 1).

For comparison, only the false twist number is 1572 ^Z.
Changed to T / M (Comparative Example 1), false twist number is 3033 ^Z T / M
And a false twist crimped yarn was obtained by the same process as in Example 1 except that the false twist overfeed rate was set to -2% (Comparative Example 2). Each of the obtained false twist crimped yarns has a hot water shrinkage ratio of 1.5.
%, 1.5%, 2.0%.

On the other hand, a drawn yarn obtained by spinning and drawing polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 10 mol% of isophthalic acid and having a hot water shrinkage of 32% and a maximum thermal stress value of 0.5 g / d.
Align 30d / 12f with each of the above false twist crimped yarns,
An air entanglement treatment was performed with an overfeed rate of 2.1% and an air pressure to the interlace nozzle of 2 kg / cm ² to obtain a 105d / 84f composite crimped yarn.

Next, the false twist crimped yarn of Example 1 and ordinary polyethylene terephthalate drawn yarn 30d / 12f (hot water shrinkage ratio)
6.8%, maximum thermal stress value 0.3 g / d) was air-entangled in the same manner as above to obtain a composite crimped yarn of 105 d / 84 f (Comparative Example 3).

Using the four types of composite crimped yarns obtained as warps and the composite crimped yarn obtained in Comparative Example 3 as wefts, a plain weave with a warp density of 118 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 56 / 2.54 cm Weaving, then relax treatment (130 ℃ × 20 minutes), preset (180 ℃ × 30 seconds), alkali weight loss (weight reduction rate 10%), circular disperse dye dyeing (130 ℃ × 30 minutes, dye: Resoline Blue GRL2 % Owf) and finishing set (170 ℃ ×
20 seconds), warp density 125 threads / 2.54 cm, weft density
A 75 / 2.54 cm woven fabric was obtained.

In the woven fabric using the composite crimped yarn of Example 1,
The thick part of navy blue showed a clear thick and thin effect on the light blue ground, and the crimp was raised and emphasized in the thick part, and the fabric as a whole was soft and bulky. On the other hand, the woven fabric using the yarn of Comparative Example 1 had a clear thick and thin effect, but lacked bulkiness. In addition, the woven fabric using the yarn of Comparative Example 2 had little thick and thin effect, and had a blue portion on the light blue background with a hazy shape. Further, the woven fabric using the yarn of Comparative Example 3 had a thick and thin effect, but had a thin and dry feel. The woven fabric using the composite crimped yarn obtained in Comparative Example 3 as the warp has a weft density of 65/2.
The density was increased to 54 cm only.

[0030]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, when a heat treatment such as a dyeing process is performed, a stretched yarn shrinks to cause a bulge due to different shrinkage, and in particular, a crimp in a thick portion to give a clearer thick and thin effect to a fabric. In addition, since the false twist crimped yarn having a small single yarn fineness can be positioned on the outer layer of the composite crimped yarn, the composite crimped yarn that can impart the bulkiness of the soft texture to the fabric is easily and stably provided. Can be manufactured.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic process diagram showing an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is an external schematic view showing a thick portion of the composite crimped yarn obtained by the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic external view showing details of the composite crimped yarn obtained in the present invention.

FIG. 4 is an external schematic view showing a state after the thick portion in FIG. 2 is treated with boiling water.

5 is a schematic external view showing a state after the details of FIG. 3 are treated with boiling water. FIG.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Highly oriented undrawn yarn 4 Liquid applying device 5 First heater 7 Second heater 8 False twisting device 10 Air entanglement device 14 Stretched yarn

Continuation of front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁵ Identification code Office reference number FI Technical display location D02G 3/22 D02J 1/22 RM

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A false twist number (T / M) is obtained by intermittently adhering water or an aqueous liquid to a highly oriented polyester unoriented yarn having a single yarn fineness of 3 d or less, followed by heat treatment while stretching.
In the range of (15000 to 25000) / D ^1/2 (D is the yarn fineness after drawing: denier), false twisting is performed while overfeeding, and then the obtained false twist crimped yarn and hot water shrinkage Characterized in that it has a hydrothermal shrinkage ratio of 10% or more and 15% or more than that of the false twist crimped yarn, and has a maximum thermal stress value of 0.3 g / d or more in fluid entanglement. A method for producing a composite crimped yarn having a thick and thin effect.