JPH0718064B2 - Polyester false twist crimped yarn - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a polyester false twist crimped yarn having a large fineness portion and a fineness fine portion in the longitudinal direction of a yarn.

(Prior Art) Conventionally, a polyester multi-filament yarn having a fineness difference in the longitudinal direction of a yarn has a fineness portion and a fineness portion in the longitudinal direction, and the thickness portion has a low degree of orientation and a fineness degree. The part is known to have a high degree of orientation. However, since such a processed yarn is obtained by incompletely drawing an undrawn yarn, it has a relatively large difference in fineness and a high thinning effect, while the false twisting process and dyeing process are performed. The heat treatment of 1 has a drawback that the undrawn state of the large fineness portion is easily embrittled.

Further, in order to eliminate the drawbacks in the heat treatment, for example, as shown in Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-7207, undrawn portions remain randomly in the longitudinal direction of an arbitrary filament constituting a multifilament yarn, and the multifilament is left. Polyester multifilament yarn is also known in which the undrawn portion of the yarn as a whole does not concentrate at the same location but is dispersed. In such a multi-filament yarn, the filaments that make up the filament have a difference in the fineness in the longitudinal direction, but the thick and fine portions are not concentrated, and are located randomly and Since there is little overlap between the thick parts or the parts with fineness, the difference in fineness of the entire multi-filament yarn becomes unclear, and the woven or knitted fabric obtained from this yarn has a marbling tone when dyed. Even if it shows a heather, its existence is not clear in plain white, and it is not suitable as a thread for a woven or knitted fabric with a high sense of unevenness.

Further, the applicant of the present invention has disclosed a method for producing a crimped yarn having a thin and fine shape by subjecting a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn to a relaxation heat treatment, and then performing a draw false twisting process while intermittently heat treating.
As proposed in Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 59-179810, the thick thin yarn obtained by this method has a large difference in heat shrinkability between the thick fine portion and the fine fine portion. In the process, unevenness in the shape of a twitch, which is caused by an excessive difference in shrinkage between the fine-fineness portion and the fine-fineness portion, for example, unevenness of a Satsuka-like fabric is likely to occur. The tension-like unevenness cannot be eliminated even by performing a tensioning treatment in the finishing heat setting step after the dyeing step. In order to eliminate this tension-like unevenness, it is necessary to perform heat setting before dyeing, or dye in a tensioned and widened state. Also, in terms of texture, it is not possible to wipe out the feeling of coarseness and hardness. In addition, the process was increased and it was complicated.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks of the conventional thick and thin yarns, and the purpose thereof is to produce a twitch-like unevenness when formed into a woven or knitted fabric. An object of the present invention is to provide a polyester false twist crimped yarn.

(Means for Solving Problems) That is, the present invention relates to a polyester filament false twist crimped yarn having a large fineness portion and a fineness fine portion alternately along the longitudinal direction of the yarn, which is The difference in the heat shrinkage ratio of the fineness portion is 10% or less, and the filament that constitutes the thickness portion is not substantially twisted and deformed by false twisting.
The filament that constitutes the fineness portion is a polyester false twist crimped yarn characterized in that its cross section is deformed by twisting deformation by false twisting and has crimps.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

First, the false-twist crimped yarn of the present invention comprises a false-twisted crimped yarn of a polyester multi-filament yarn having alternating high-fineness portions and fine-fineness portions in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The difference in the heat shrinkage of 10% or less is small, and the difference in the heat shrinkage in the longitudinal direction of the yarn is small.

In the present invention, it is necessary that the difference in heat shrinkage between the large fineness portion and the fineness portion is 10% or less.
If it exceeds 10%, when it is woven or knitted and then subjected to heat treatment such as dyeing process, the large fineness portion shrinks remarkably, and the difference in shrinkage with the fineness portion forms a tension-like unevenness on the fabric surface. Therefore, it is not preferable. For example, when the above heat treatment is performed after forming a woven fabric, so-called Satsuka-like unevenness is likely to occur, and when the above heat treatment is performed after forming the woven fabric, the stitch loops composed of the large fineness portions are formed into fine fineness portions. Since it shrinks more than the stitch loop composed of, the stitches are partially dense and a tatter-like unevenness is generated, which is not preferable.

In the present invention, the heat shrinkage rate itself is not particularly limited and is appropriately selected according to the application. For example, it is selected in consideration of the density of the woven or knitted material.

Further, in the polyester false twist crimped yarn of the present invention, the filament constituting the large fineness portion is not substantially twisted and deformed by false twisting, and the filament forming the fine fineness portion is twisted by false twisting. The cross-section is deformed by the deformation and has crimps.

In the present invention, when the filament forming the large fineness portion is twisted and deformed by false twisting, there is no difference in the fineness between the large fineness portion and the fineness portion due to the stretching due to the twisting deformation. It is not possible to impart a feeling of unevenness due to the difference in the fineness between the large fineness portion and the fineness fine portion.

The yarn diameter ratio of the large fineness portion and the fineness fine portion of the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention is preferably 1.2 or more from the viewpoint of the thinning effect. The upper limit of the yarn diameter ratio between the fine and fine portions is not particularly limited. However, if the yarn diameter ratio is too large, the process passability during subsequent weaving and weaving may decrease, and the wearability of the resulting fabric may be reduced. Since it may decrease, it is usually preferable that the value be 2.0 or less.

Next, the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an example of the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention, which is composed of a thick fine portion a and a thin portion of the filament along the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The fine-fineness portions a have a large thermal shrinkage, and the fine-fineness portions b have a smaller thermal shrinkage than the large-fineness portions a. Is less than 10%.

Further, as shown in FIG. 2, the filament constituting the large fineness portion a is not substantially subjected to the twisting deformation due to false twist, and its cross section is hardly deformed. . On the other hand, as shown in FIG. 3, the filament constituting the fineness portion b is deformed by twisting deformation due to false twist and its cross section is deformed and has crimps. There is.

As described above, the filament of the portion forming the large fineness portion a is not substantially subjected to the twisting deformation by false twisting, and the filament of the portion forming the fineness portion b is twisting deformed by false twisting. Has been deformed and its cross section has been deformed,
In the case of having crimps, the large fineness portion a and the fineness portion b are dusty and exhibit an excellent concavo-convex effect not seen in the conventional false twist crimped yarn made of thick and thin yarns. Moreover, when this is made into a woven or knitted product, a soft volume feeling is given by the fineness portion b having the crimp. In addition, the false-twist crimped yarn obtained by false-twisting a thick thin yarn obtained by incompletely drawing a conventional undrawn yarn has a large fineness portion as well as a fine-fineness portion when twisted by false twisting. Since the large fineness portion is stretched and the thickness thereof is reduced due to the twisting deformation, the thinning effect is extremely reduced. However, as described above, the large fineness portion a is twisted and deformed by false twisting. Is not substantially received, that is, if there is no twisting deformation due to false twisting or if the deformation is small even if there is, the yarn diameter ratio between the large fineness portion a and the fineness portion b is sufficient. It can be maintained and shows excellent unevenness effect.

Next, a method for producing the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention will be described.

The false twist crimped yarn of the present invention is produced, for example, as follows. First, a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn having a birefringence Δn of 15 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ was put in contact with a heating device.
Relaxation heat treatment with a relaxation rate of 30% or more, preferably 50% or more,
Then, water or aqueous liquid is intermittently adhered to the yarn subjected to relaxation heat treatment, and the portion to which water or aqueous liquid is adhered is not subjected to draw false twist deformation without continuously contacting the heating device. It is manufactured by conditions such as a draw ratio of 1.5 or more, false twist number of 2300 times / m, false twist temperature of false twist temperature of 180 ° C., and then introducing it to a heat treatment device to heat the large fineness portion.

In this way, when the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention is produced, since the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn has high heat shrinkability, the relaxation heat treatment is performed at a relaxation rate of 30% or more. Thicken the yarn and make it possible to develop the difference in thickness by the subsequent drawing false twisting process. Next, the yarn thickened by the relaxation heat treatment is intermittently attached with water or an aqueous liquid,
Since it is subsequently drawn and false twisted, heat is not applied to the portion to which water or an aqueous liquid adheres during drawing and false twisting, so that it becomes an extremely thick fine-fine portion without being stretched or false twisted. On the other hand, the part where water or aqueous liquid is not attached is
Sufficient heat is applied, and at the same time as drawing, it is twisted and deformed by false twisting and becomes a fineness portion having crimps.

In this case, in order to prevent the large fineness portion from being twisted and deformed by false twisting, it is necessary to perform draw false twisting simultaneously with the formation of the large fineness portion, and the portion to which water or aqueous liquid has adhered does not adhere. The large fineness portion is configured to be less likely to be deformed than the non-exposed portion. Stretching and false twisting are concentrated on a portion where water or an aqueous liquid is not adhered, and the fineness portion is twisted and deformed.

The false twist crimped yarn that has been drawn and false twisted as described above is heat treated, and the temperature of this heat treatment is preferably higher than the heating temperature during drawing and false twisting.

The false-twisted crimped yarn obtained as described above has, in addition to the above-mentioned features of the present invention, the large-fineness portion not being embrittled by heat treatment such as dyeing.

Next, the method for producing the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 4 is a process schematic view showing an example of the method for producing the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention, in which the yarn F drawn from the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn spool 1 passes through the guide 2 and the feed roller 3, While being over fed by the feed roller 3 and the first delivery roller 5, it enters the first heating device 4 and undergoes thermal contraction at a predetermined relaxation rate. Then, it is sent to the drawing false twist region through the first delivery roller 5, and water or an aqueous liquid is intermittently adhered by the liquid adhering device 6,
It is stretched between the first delivery roller 5 and the second delivery roller 9 at a predetermined stretching ratio and, at the same time, is twisted by the false twisting and burning device 8 and heat-fixed by the second heating device 7 in a non-contact state. Further, through the second delivery roller 9,
It is heat-treated by the third heating device 10, passed through the third delivery roller 11, and taken up by the winding roller 12 as a false twist crimped yarn on the package 13.

Next, another example of the method for producing the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention will be described.

FIG. 5 is a schematic process diagram showing another example of the method for producing the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention, in which the yarn F drawn from the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn spool 1 is a guide 2, a feed roller 3 Through the feed roller 3 and the first delivery roller 5, the first heating device 4
Then, it is heat-shrunk at a predetermined relaxation rate. Then, it is sent to the drawn false twist region through the first delivery roller 5.
Here, the first delivery roller 5 and the second delivery roller 9
While the air cylinder 14 is turned on and off, the moving guide 15 reciprocates at a right angle to the running direction of the yarn while traversing the yarn and intermittently contacting the second heating device 7 with the first delivery roller 5 and the first heating device 7. It is drawn at a predetermined draw ratio with the second delivery roller 9, and at the same time, it is heat set by the false twisting and twisting device 8, and then heat-treated by the third heating device 10 through the second delivery roller 9 and the third delivery roller.
After passing through 11, it is taken up by the winding roller 12 as a false twist crimped yarn on the package 13.

In the present invention, the yarn diameter ratio is such that the yarn is twisted 300 times / m under a load of 0.3 g / d, the yarn diameters of the fine and fine portions are measured with a microscope equipped with a scale, and The yarn diameter of the fineness portion is divided by the yarn diameter of the fineness portion.

Regarding the heat shrinkage (%), for the large fineness portion, a yarn was sampled with a length of about 30 cm centered on the large fineness portion, and at a load of 0.1 g / d, the center of the large fineness portion was 5 cm apart. After marking, boiling in boiling water for 30 minutes in the free state, air-drying for 24 hours,
The length L (cm) between the marks was measured under a load of 0.1 g / d and expressed as (5-L) / 5 × 100 (%).

On the other hand, with regard to the fine fineness portion, a portion where the large fineness portion does not exist is selected and measured and expressed in the same manner as in the case of the large fineness portion.

(Example) Next, the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples.

Example Birefringence obtained by high-speed spinning of polyethylene terephthalate
5x10 ^-3 polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 110d / 36f 4th
The false twist crimped yarn of the present invention was produced under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the steps shown in the figure.

The obtained false twist crimped yarn was a thick and thin yarn having alternating fineness and fineness, and the yarn diameter ratio between the fineness and the fineness was 1.5.

For comparison, a false-twisted crimped yarn that had not been heat-treated immediately after leaving the second delivery roller was collected.

When the heat shrinkage rate of the false twist crimped yarn for comparison with the false twisted crimped yarn of the present invention was measured, the false shrinkage of the false twisted crimped yarn of the present invention was The difference was 10.0% and 6.0%, respectively, and the difference in heat shrinkage was 4.0%. On the other hand, the comparative false-twist crimped yarns have the thermal shrinkage rates of the large fineness portion and the fineness fine portion, respectively.
The difference was 28.0% and 10.0%, and the difference in heat shrinkage was 18.0%.

In the false twist crimped yarn having the above-mentioned thick and thin of the present invention, in the S and Z directions,
After twisting 2000 times / m, warp density is 74 strands / in, weft density is 68 strands / in
For each of the warp and weft, two S and Z twist yarns were alternately arranged and woven into a plain woven fabric. Then, when the product was finished according to the usual polyester fiber dyeing recipe, it had a slab-like thick and thin effect and was a kasuri tone.

On the other hand, when a finished product of the comparative false twist crimped yarn was finished in the same manner as described above, it was found to have Satsuka-like unevenness with tightness.

(Effects of the Invention) Since the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention has the above-mentioned constitution, the difference in thermal shrinkage between the large fineness portion and the fineness fine portion is small, and it is a woven or knitted fabric. Occasionally, no twitching-like unevenness is generated, and a preferable thinning effect due to a difference in thickness is obtained.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an example of the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention,
FIG. 2 is a sectional view of a large fineness portion of the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention, FIG.
FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view of the fineness portion of the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention, FIG. 4 is a process schematic diagram showing an example of the method for producing the false twist crimped yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 5 is the false twist of the present invention. It is a process outline figure showing other examples of a manufacturing method of crimped yarn. a; thick fine part, b; fine fine part

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A polyester multi-filament false twist crimped yarn having alternating large fineness portions and fine fineness portions along the longitudinal direction of the yarn, wherein the difference in thermal shrinkage between the large fineness portion and the fineness portion is
The filaments that are 10% or less and do not substantially undergo twisting deformation due to false twisting, and filaments that form finer fineness have a cross-section due to twisting deformation due to false twisting. A polyester false twist crimped yarn which is deformed and has crimps.