JPH07126951A - Woven or knitted fabric from yarn of mixed filaments different in denier and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a yarn of mixed filaments differing in deniers comprising a fine- denier dividable segment and a high-denier segment with a different cross section and giving woven and knitted fabrics which have high softness, bulkiness and rich drapeability. CONSTITUTION:(A) Polyethylene terephthalate(PET) containing 1.2 to 10wt.% of titanium oxide dull additive is prepared as the polymer 1 for the segment to be divided 1, and (B) a hot water-soluble isophthalic acid-copolymerized PET as a dividable segment 2 and as a taperable segments 3 and (C) an isophthalic acid-copolymerized PET containing 1.2 to 10wt.% titanium oxide dull additive as a highly different cross section segment 4 are also prepared. Both the low-shrinkage dividable conjugated filaments comprising the polymer components 1 and 2 with the denier of the divided segment of 0.05 to 0.5de and the conjugated filaments whose single yarn deniers are 4 to 10 comprising polymer components 3 and 4 are simultaneously melt-extruded through a same spinneret to give the yarn of mixed filaments differing in deniers. The mixed filament yarn is used as weft and warp to form a woven fabric, then treated with hot water to leach out the components 2, 3 and obtain a woven fabric in which the count of the denier of the fine filaments is more than 20 to that of the thick filaments.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric using mixed yarns of different fineness and a method for producing the same. More specifically, it is a woven or knitted fabric with different fineness mixed yarns, which is composed of a core-sheath structure yarn in which a thick fine multifilament yarn is a core portion and an ultrafine fineness multifilament yarn is a sheath portion. The present invention relates to a high-quality woven or knitted fabric having an extremely large number of filaments, having a soft and dense feeling, and having swelling, waist, repulsion, drapeability, and the like, and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A woven or knitted fabric using a different shrinkage mixed yarn in which a high shrinkage multifilament yarn and a low shrinkage multifilament yarn are mixed produces a yarn length difference based on a difference in shrinkage ratio when heat treated, and High shrinkage multifilament yarn in the core,
A technique is well known in which a low-shrinkage multifilament yarn serves as a sheath portion and a knitted fabric expresses a bulge and is made into a high-grade knitted fabric having a soft feeling and drapeability. As for the high shrinkage multifilament yarn and the low shrinkage multifilament yarn to be mixed, various polymers, fineness, number of filaments and cross-sectional shape are used, and it is put into practical use as a woven or knitted fabric with various textures and appearances. Has been done. Furthermore, the range of raw yarns to be mixed to expand the characteristics of woven and knitted fabrics is expanding one after another.

With respect to such a different shrinkage mixed yarn, the present inventors have previously given a large difference in shrinkage or a dry touch in, for example, JP-A-2-19528 and JP-A-3-59130. Proposed improvements from polymers to add. However, the fineness structure is a general filament for clothes having a normal size of about 1 to 3d, and it was not possible to obtain a high-grade feel with a soft and dense feeling.

It is also known that the single-filament fineness of the high-shrinkage multifilament yarn is set to be a large fineness and the single-filament fineness of the low-shrinkage multifilament yarn is set to be a fineness, thereby emphasizing the softness, waist and tension of the woven or knitted fabric. There is. That is, Japanese Examined Patent Publication 61-1
Japanese Patent No. 9730 discloses a mixed yarn of a low-shrinkage multifilament yarn of less than 1d and a high-shrinkage multifilament yarn of 1 to 3d. There is a drawback that the waist and the resilience cannot be sufficiently imparted.

Further, Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-40778 discloses a technique in which a mixed yarn of a high shrinkage multi-filament yarn having a large fineness and a low shrinkage multi-filament yarn having an extremely fine fineness is used as a woven or knitted fabric and is raised to give a raised fabric. It is disclosed. At this time, there is a description that the low-shrinkage multifilament yarn may be a split-type composite yarn, but in the technology disclosed herein, only the example in which the ratio of the number of filaments of the ultrafine-fine yarn to the large-fineness yarn is 2 times. The woven or knitted fabric obtained has a slightly soft feeling on the surface because the filaments of each fineness form a group at a maximum of 2 times, but the difference in fineness causes a large difference in dyeing, resulting in defects such as irritability. Not only that, napping did not give a good fluffy feeling or appearance quality.

On the other hand, JP-A-52-91962 discloses that a sea-island composite multifilament yarn having an island component of extra fineness is mixed with a shrinkage difference to remove the sea component from the woven fabric and then raised. Although a technique for forming a napped woven fabric is disclosed, this type of woven fabric has a drawback that it is too soft and can be applied only to a special application even when it is not raised.

As described above, in the prior art, although a woven or knitted fabric using a different shrinkage mixed filament yarn using a split type composite multifilament yarn as a component corresponding to a fine shrinkage low shrinkage filament, it is sufficiently soft and dense feeling. However, a high-quality woven or knitted fabric that has a texture such as a bulge and a waist and appearance quality has not been obtained yet.

[0008]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art, and as a woven or knitted fabric with a particularly high-grade feeling, let alone soft feeling, waist, tension and drape, dyeing irritability. It is an object of the present invention to provide a woven and knitted fabric using a mixed yarn of different fineness, which has features such as dense appearance and the like, which are not achieved by the prior art, without the drawbacks such as the above, and an effective manufacturing method thereof.

[0009]

Means for Solving the Problems The above-mentioned objects of the present invention are as follows: (1) Thickness multifilament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 4 to 10d, fine filament having a single filament fineness of 0.05 to 0.5d. A multi-filament woven or knitted fabric composed of a core-sheath structure yarn in which a multi-filament yarn serves as a sheath portion, wherein a ratio of the number of filaments of the fine-fineness multi-filament yarn to the large-fineness multi-filament yarn is 20 times or more. And a ratio of the single fineness of the large fineness multifilament yarn to the fineness of the multifilament yarn is 15 times or more.

(2) A different shrinkage mixed yarn of a split type composite multifilament yarn having a fine shrinkage which is a low shrinkage component and a high shrinkage multifilament yarn having a large fineness, the splittable composite multifilament yarn being split. Segment fineness of 0.05 ~
0.5d, the single yarn fineness of the high shrinkage multifilament yarn is 4 to 10d, the ratio of the number of filaments of the split type composite multifilament yarn to the high shrinkage multifilament yarn is 4 times or more, and the high shrinkage A heterogeneous mixed yarn in which the ratio of the number of divided segments to the number of filaments of the multifilament yarn is 20 times or more is made into a woven or knitted material, and then heat treatment and division treatment are applied to the yarn. Method for manufacturing woven or knitted fabric. Can be achieved by

That is, first, the woven or knitted fabric using the different fineness mixed filament yarn of the present invention has a thick fineness multifilament yarn as a core portion,
It is composed of a core-sheath structure yarn having a fineness multifilament yarn as a sheath portion. In the core-sheath structure yarn, a large number of filament yarns having a relatively large fineness are distributed in the central portion, and a large number of filament yarns having a relatively small fineness are distributed in the outer peripheral portion,
It is effective for giving a soft feeling, a detailed feeling, and a non-irritating appearance.

The large fineness multifilament yarn needs a single yarn fineness of 4 to 10d, and the fine fineness multifilament yarn needs a single yarn fineness of 0.05 to 0.5d. That is, the single fineness of the multi-filament yarn having a large fineness is 4 in order to impart elasticity, tension and resilience to the woven or knitted fabric.
d or more, preferably 5d or more is required. Further, if the single yarn fineness becomes too large, the woven or knitted product will have a coarse and hard texture, so 10 d or less, preferably 9 d or less is required. On the other hand, the fineness multifilament yarn forms the surface of a woven or knitted fabric and is directly related to the feel and appearance. Therefore, the single yarn fineness needs to be 0.5d or less, preferably 0.4d or less, from the viewpoint of exhibiting a soft feeling and a dense feeling. Further, if the single yarn fineness is too small, the softness is overemphasized and a slimy feel is obtained, so 0.05 d or more, preferably 0.06 d or more is required.

From the viewpoint of improving the softness and the denseness of the woven or knitted fabric, reducing the dyeing unevenness, and improving the appearance quality, the ratio of the number of filaments of the fine-definition multifilament yarn to the large-definition multifilament yarn is 20
It is necessary to double or more, preferably 25 times or more. From the viewpoint of satisfying both the softness of the woven and knitted fabric and the elasticity, resilience and resilience, the ratio of the fineness multifilament yarn to the fineness multifilament yarn needs to be 15 times or more, preferably 18 times or more. .

It should be noted that if there is an appropriate yarn length difference due to the difference in shrinkage ratio during heat treatment between the above-mentioned large fineness multifilament yarn and fineness fine multifilament yarn, bulging and repulsion as a woven or knitted fabric will occur. It is preferable for improvement. The yarn length difference is preferably 5% or more, more preferably 7% or more.

In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the polymer for the high-definition multifilament yarn and / or the fine-fineness multifilament yarn, which constitutes the mixed yarn of different fineness, has strength, dimensional stability, softness and waist, tension and drape. From the viewpoint of imparting excellent properties such as properties, a polyester polymer is preferable, and among the polyesters, a polyester in which ethylene terephthalate is substantially poly (ethylene terephthalate) with 80 mol% or more is most preferable. That is, when the polymer forming the mixed yarn of different fineness is polyester,
When manufacturing a different-shrinkage multi-filament yarn having a high-definition multifilament yarn as a high-shrinkage component, it is easy to arrange the high-definition multifilament yarn in the core, and the third component is copolymerized as a polymer for the high-definition multifilament yarn. The above polyester can be preferably used. More details will be described later.

Further, it is preferable to add a matting agent to the above-mentioned polymer so that a soft texture can be obtained, and a woven or knitted fabric having a soft and unique texture which is not available in conventional products can be obtained. The effect is further enhanced by adding a matting agent to the multifilament yarns of both components. For this purpose, the amount of the matting agent added is preferably 1.2% by weight or more.
It is more preferably 4% by weight or more. On the other hand, if the amount added is too large, the color development and gloss of the yarn or the woven or knitted fabric will decrease, and the tear strength of the woven or knitted fabric will tend to decrease due to the reduced strength of the yarn, so 10% by weight or less is preferable and 4% by weight or less is preferable. More preferable.

Examples of the matting agent include titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, magnesium oxide, silicon oxide, antimony oxide, zinc oxide, lead tungstate, calcium tungstate and calcium carbonate. From the viewpoint of better expression and stable addition to polyester with good dispersibility, titanium oxide, silicon oxide,
Zinc oxide and calcium carbonate are particularly preferred. From the viewpoint of dispersibility, the average particle size of the matting agent added is preferably 1 μm or less, more preferably 0.7 μm or less. The maximum particle size is preferably 5 μm or less from the viewpoint of spinnability, and 3 μm.
The following is more preferable.

The large fineness multifilament yarn constituting the above-mentioned mixed yarn of different fineness preferably has a shape in which concave grooves continuous in the longitudinal direction of the yarn are formed on the yarn surface. For that purpose, it is more preferable to arrange the easily soluble polymer in a taper shape from a plurality of positions on the yarn surface toward the inside of the yarn. Woven and knitted fabrics using such a fine-filament multifilament yarn with a surface shape have both a texture with a feeling of creaking and a function of water absorption, and a woven and knitting fabric with a soft, creaking and water absorbing property not available in conventional products is obtained. Will be done. A plurality of concave grooves is preferable in order to enhance the groove effect.

When the average length W of the entrance width of the concave groove becomes larger than the average diameter R of the fineness multifilament yarn (the average value of the maximum diameter when the cross-sectional shape of the yarn is irregular), the fineness of the woven or knitted fabric is increased. The multifilament easily enters the concave groove, and it becomes difficult to sufficiently exert the groove effect and the effect of fineness. Therefore, W / R is preferably 5 times or less, more preferably 4 times or less, and further preferably 3 times or less.

Next, a method for manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric using the mixed yarn of different fineness according to the present invention will be described. That is, the woven or knitted fabric using the different fineness mixed filament yarn of the present invention, for example, weaves the different shrinkage mixed filament yarn composed of the split type composite multifilament yarn having a fine shrinkage which is a low shrinkage component and the high shrinkage multifilament yarn having a large fineness. It can be manufactured by knitting, and then subjecting it to shrinkage development and division treatment by heat treatment.

The split fine multifilament yarn in the present invention is a composite multifilament yarn having a sectional shape in which the divided component polymer is divided into a plurality of divided segments by the divided component polymer. The split component polymer is preferably an easily soluble polymer in order to ensure the split treatment, but may be a polymer that can remain as a part of the composite multifilament yarn in the woven or knitted fabric after the split treatment. . Further, as the split type composite multifilament yarn, the sea-island type composite multifilament yarn is preferable from the viewpoint of stably dividing the segment to be divided into ultrafine fineness. FIG. 1 exemplifies the cross-sectional shape of a sea-island splitting type composite multifilament yarn. In the figure, a splitting component polymer is divided by a splitting component polymer 2 into eight island-shaped splitting segments 1.

The fineness of the segment to be divided is 0.05 to 0.
It needs to be 5d. The segment to be divided after the division treatment forms the surface of the woven or knitted fabric and is directly related to the feel and appearance, and the fineness thereof is 0.5d or less, preferably from the viewpoint of exhibiting the softness and the denseness of the woven or knitted fabric. 0.4d or less is required. Further, if the fineness of the segment to be divided is too small, the soft feeling is overemphasized and the texture becomes slimy, so 0.05 d or more, preferably 0.06 d or more is required.

The split type composite multifilament yarn has a low shrinkage component in the mixed fiber yarn, but one of the high shrinkage components, the high shrinkage multifilament yarn, requires a single yarn fineness of 4 to 10d. In order to impart sufficient elasticity, tension and repulsion to a woven or knitted fabric made of mixed fiber, a single yarn fineness of 4d or more, preferably 5d or more is required. If the single yarn fineness is too large, the woven or knitted fabric will have a coarse and hard texture, so 10 d or less, preferably 9 d or less is required. In addition, the single yarn fineness of the high shrinkage multifilament yarn is
From the viewpoint of further exerting the waist, the tension, the repulsion property and the like, it is desirable that the single yarn fineness of the segment to be divided is 15 times or more.

The number of filaments of the split type composite multifilament yarn is 4 times or more the number of filaments of the high shrinkage multifilament yarn, and the number of divided segments is 20 times or more the number of filaments of the high shrinkage multifilament yarn. is necessary. The smaller the number of filaments (the number of BFs) and the number of segments to be divided (the number of BSs) of the split type composite multifilament yarn, the lower the surface formation ratio of the divided segments in the woven or knitted fabric made of the mixed yarn after the splitting treatment, resulting in a soft feeling. Also, the compactness and the appearance quality are deteriorated. For this reason, it improves the softness and fineness of the woven and knitted fabric,
From the viewpoint of reducing dyeing irregularities, the BF number is 4 which is the number of filaments (KF number) of the high shrinkage multifilament yarn.
The number of BSs should be 20 times or more, preferably 25 times or more, and the number of BSs should be 20 times or more, preferably 25 times or more.

The shrinkage characteristics of the splittable composite multifilament yarn (low shrinkage component yarn) and the high shrinkage multifilament yarn are such that the boiling water shrinkage ratio and the dry heat at 160 ° C. are sufficient to sufficiently develop the swelling as the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn. It is preferable that either one of the shrinkage rates has a difference of 5% or more, and more preferably the difference of 7% or more. Furthermore, in order to impart a sufficient bulge without feeling coarse and hard to the woven or knitted fabric, the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the high shrinkage multifilament yarn is set to 15% or more, and the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the split-type composite multifilament yarn is set to 10% or less. It is more preferable that the difference between the two shrinkage rates is 7% or more.

The polymer for the segment to be divided and / or the high shrinkage multifilament yarn constituting the heterogeneous shrinkage mixed filament yarn in the present invention is capable of easily converting the shrinkage difference due to heat treatment into the bulge of the yarn or the woven or knitted fabric, and is alkali-soluble. A polyester polymer is preferable from the viewpoint of easily imparting drapeability to a woven or knitted material by treatment and the like, and dimensional stability. Particularly, the constituent polymer other than the splitting component is substantially polyethylene having 80 mol% or more of ethylene terephthalate among polyesters. Most preferred is polyester, which is terephthalate.

Among the different shrinkage mixed yarns, the polyester polymer for the high shrinkage multifilament yarn is preferably polyester obtained by copolymerizing a third component. Examples of the third component include dicarboxylic acids such as oxalic acid, sebacic acid, phthalic acid and isophthalic acid, glycols such as diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and neopentyl glycol, and bisphenol A and bisphenol sulfone. Isophteric acid and bisphenol A from the viewpoints of spinnability and expression of high shrinkage properties
Is particularly preferable. Further, the copolymerization amount of the third component is preferably 2 mol% or more in order to sufficiently impart high shrinkage characteristics, and when the copolymerization amount is too large, the shrinkage of the woven or knitted fabric becomes excessive in the shrinkage difference imparting treatment, and the coarse hardness is increased. It is easy to be
It is preferable to keep it to 0 mol% or less.

When a matting agent is added to the above polymer,
It is preferable because it gives a dry feel that is not available in conventional products. The type and amount of the matting agent used for this purpose are as described above.

The high shrinkage multifilament yarn preferably has a surface shape having concave grooves continuous in the longitudinal direction of the yarn on its surface. In order to form the concave groove clearly, it is more preferable to arrange the easily soluble polymer in a taper shape from a plurality of positions on the surface of the high shrinkage multifilament yarn toward the inside of the yarn. The high-shrinkage multifilament yarn having such a cross-sectional shape has a peculiar texture and absorptive function when at least a part of the easily-dissolved component is dissolved and removed after knitting. A woven or knitted fabric with no softness, creaking feeling and absorbency can be obtained. FIG. 2 shows an example of the cross-sectional shape of such a high shrinkage composite multifilament yarn. It is a high shrinkage composite multifilament yarn in which a readily soluble component is arranged in a taper shape from the three convex portions of the trilobal cross section toward the inside of the yarn. That is, FIG.
The high shrinkage composite multifilament yarn of (3) is formed of three tapered segments 3 and a high profile segment 4, and the high profile segment is composed of a high shrinkage component polymer.

Further, the high shrinkage composite multifilament yarn has an average length of the entrance width of the concave groove on the yarn surface and / or a line segment (high irregularity segment connecting the boundary points of the tapered segment and the highly irregular segment on the yarn surface). When the average length of the taper groove (corresponding to the entrance width of the tapered groove) is W, and W is larger than the average diameter R of the segment to be divided (the average value of the maximum diameter when the cross-sectional shape is irregular), the woven or knitted fabric In the above, the segment to be divided easily enters the groove of the high shrinkage multifilament yarn, and the effect of the groove effect and the fineness of the segment to be divided tends to be reduced. Therefore, W / R is preferably 5 times or less, more preferably 4 times or less, and further preferably 3 times or less in order to sufficiently exert the groove effect and the effect of fineness.

The easily soluble polymer of the high shrinkage composite multifilament yarn in the present invention does not need to be the same as the easily soluble polymer of the above-mentioned splittable composite multifilament yarn, but if it is the same, the productivity becomes high. Is preferred. As the dissolution treatment of the easily soluble polymer, alkali treatment which is widely adopted in the field of polyester woven and knitted fabrics can be preferably used. As the easily soluble polymer for this purpose, an alkaline easily soluble polyester is preferable.

In this alkali-soluble polyester,
Examples include copolymers or blends of polyester and polyalkylene glycols, polyesters containing anionic surfactants, polyesters containing metal sulfonate groups, or blends of polyesters with polyesters containing metal sulfonate groups. To be Of these, metal sulfonate group-containing polyesters, specifically 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate (1 to 10 mol%) / ethylene terephthalate (9
Copolymerized polyesters consisting of 9 to 90 mol%) are particularly preferred.

As the readily soluble polymer, a hot water-soluble polyester such as 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate (8 to 14 mol%) / isophthalic acid (10 to 33) can be used.
Use of a copolyester consisting of (mol%) / ethylene terephthalate (82-45 mol%) significantly reduces restrictions during dissolution treatment, and in particular suppresses strength reduction due to division treatment (dissolution treatment) of the woven or knitted fabric. It is convenient because

In the different shrinkage mixed filament yarn of the present invention, the fine-division splitting type composite multifilament yarn is distributed outside the different shrinkage mixed filament yarn, and the large fineness high shrinkage multifilament yarn is distributed inside. However, it is preferable from the viewpoint of sufficiently exerting the effect of fineness of the segment to be divided and the reduction of dyeing unevenness. In order to form such an arrangement of mixed fiber, it is preferable to use a method of simultaneously spinning a split type composite multifilament yarn and a high shrinkage multifilament yarn as in the spinning method described later. A method in which the discharge holes of the filament yarn are arranged on the outer side and the discharge holes of the high shrinkage multifilament yarn are arranged on the inner side and spinning is more preferable.

Next, an example of a spinneret device for simultaneously spinning a split type composite multifilament yarn and a composite high shrinkage multifilament yarn as the different-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn in the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.

The mouthpiece device shown in FIG. 3 has an upper plate 11 and a lower plate 12.
2 plates of which the left half is for the sea-island split type composite multifilament yarn as shown in FIG.
The right half is for a three-lobe cross-section composite high shrinkage multifilament yarn as shown in FIG.

First, the composite spinning portion of the sea-island split type composite multifilament yarn will be described. The component polymer A for the segment to be divided is introduced into the opening portion 17 from the introduction hole 13 and the upper plate discharge hole 14. The numbers of the introduction holes 13 and the upper plate discharge holes 14 correspond to the number of divided segments (islands). The divided component polymer B passes from the polymer reservoir 15 through the protrusion 16 to the opening 17
, Where a sea-island type composite flow is formed in both polymers A and B, and is discharged from the discharge hole 18 as a sea-island type split-type composite multifilament yarn.

Next, the composite spinning portion of the three-lobe cross-section composite high shrinkage multifilament yarn will be described. The highly deformed segment component polymer C is introduced into the opening portion 24 from the opening portion 19 and the upper plate discharge hole 20. One component polymer D for the tapered segment is introduced from the polymer reservoir 21 through the groove 23 on the projection 22 into the opening 24, where a composite flow is formed in both polymers C and D, and from the discharge hole 25. It is discharged as a three-lobe cross-section composite high shrinkage multifilament yarn. Upper plate discharge hole 2
0, the groove 23, and the preferable shape of the discharge hole 25 are shown in FIGS. The divided segment component polymer A and the divided component polymer B are separated by a partition plate 26,
The high profile segment component polymer C and the tapered segment component polymer D are separated by a partition plate 27.

As a matter of course, as the different shrinkage mixed filament yarn, a fine-division splitting type multi-filament yarn and a large-fineness highly-shrinkable multi-filament yarn may be spun and drawn from individual spinner devices and then mixed. Further, spinning and drawing may be performed in separate steps or continuous steps, and a high-speed spinning method can be sufficiently applied.

The different shrinkage mixed yarn described above is woven and knitted according to a usual method. Thereafter, the woven and knitted fabric is subjected to shrinkage difference development by heat treatment and division treatment (dissolution reduction treatment), and then subjected to dyeing finish. At this time, it is preferable that the woven or knitted fabric uses the different shrinkage mixed yarn as at least one of the warp and the weft,
It is more preferable to use it for all of the warp and weft yarns in order to fully exert the effects of the present invention. The woven and knitted fabric has 5
It is preferable to use 0% or more of the mixed fiber, more preferable to use the whole surface, and it is more preferable to use the whole woven or knitted fabric. Needless to say, the mixed yarn can be subjected to yarn processing such as twisting and entanglement within a range that does not prevent the effects of the present invention.

The heat treatment carried out after the weaving and knitting causes a difference in shrinkage of the different-shrink mixed filament yarn to be caused by wet heat and / or dry heat treatment. At this time, if the wet heat treatment and the dry heat treatment at a higher temperature are used together, a large shrinkage difference is exhibited. It is preferable for the purpose.
Further, the dividing treatment divides the divided component polymer of the divided composite multifilament yarn and the segment to be divided. It is desirable to dissolve and remove the divided component polymer in order to sufficiently perform the dividing treatment. In the dissolution removal treatment, an alkali treatment is applied when the split component polymer is an alkali easily soluble polyester, and a hot water treatment is applied when the split component polymer is a hot water soluble polymer. That is, when the split component polymer is a hot water soluble polymer and the segment to be split and / or the high shrinkage multifilament yarn polymer is a polyester, the hot water soluble polymer is dissolved and removed in advance by hot water treatment, and then the usual When alkali weight reduction treatment of 5 to 15%, which is milder than alkali weight reduction treatment, is performed,
It is preferable because the woven and knitted fabric is further improved in resilience and drape.

The difference in shrinkage and the splitting treatment of the woven or knitted fabric by the hot water treatment may be performed in any order. When the division treatment is performed in a heated state, the hot water treatment and the division treatment can be performed in one step.

[0043]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples. Example 1 TiO ₂ was used as the component polymer A for the segment to be divided.
Polyethylene terephthalate added with 2% by weight (intrinsic viscosity 0.66), 12 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 23 mol% of isophthalic acid were copolymerized as splitting component polymer B and taper segment component polymer D. Polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity 0.6
2) Polyethylene terephthalate containing 12 mol% of isophthalic acid and 2.2 wt% of TiO ₂ was prepared as the polymer C for the highly irregular segment.

Using the composite spinnerets shown in FIGS. 3 to 6, a split-type composite multifilament yarn composed of the component polymer A and the component polymer B and a composite high shrinkage multifilament yarn composed of the component polymer C and the component polymer D are simultaneously spun. Mixed fibers.
The composite spinneret has five composite high-shrinkage multifilament yarn discharge holes arranged in the central part and 30 split-type composite multifilament yarn discharge holes arranged in the peripheral part. The spinning speed is 1200 m / min and the spinning temperature is 290 ° C. Spun in. The ratio (weight ratio) of component polymer A and component polymer B is 85/1.
5, the sectional shape of the splittable composite filament yarn is as shown in FIG. On the other hand, the ratio (weight ratio) of the component polymer D and the component polymer C is 15/85, and the cross-sectional shape of the composite high shrinkage filament is as shown in FIG.

Mixed fiber composite undrawn yarn is 700 m / min, 1
Stretching was carried out at 45 ° C. to obtain a different-shrink mixed yarn of a split type composite multifilament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 8% and a composite high shrinkage multifilament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 19%. In this mixed fiber, the composite high shrinkage multifilament yarn was distributed relatively toward the center of the mixed fiber.

The different shrinkage mixed yarn was twisted at 200 T / m for both warp and weft, and a plain woven fabric was obtained by using the warp and weft.
The plain woven fabric was dissolved and removed in component water B and component polymer C in hot water at 98 ° C., and at the same time, a difference in shrinkage was developed.
Then, a weight reduction treatment of 5% was performed in an alkaline aqueous solution at 98 ° C., followed by a dry heat treatment at 180 ° C. to further develop a difference in shrinkage, and then, a dyeing finish like an ordinary polyester fabric was performed.

The mixed filament yarn constituting the plain woven fabric has a thick fine-filament multifilament yarn as a core portion and a fine-fineness multifilament yarn as a sheath portion, and has a uniform appearance without dyeing,
In addition, a difference in yarn length of 8 to 9% was exhibited. Table 1 shows the relationship between the single yarn fineness and the feel of the constituent yarns of the obtained woven fabric.

The single yarn fineness in the table is a value measured for the yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric after the dyeing process (therefore, the fine fineness multifilament yarn corresponds to the divided segment of the split type composite multifilament yarn). Equivalent to).

In Table 1, levels 2-4 and level 7,
No. 8 was a woven fabric which was soft and excellent in compactness, and which was not only good in bulging, waist, repulsion and drape, but also had a dry feel and was excellent in crease and water absorption and was high in quality. . Level 3 was particularly excellent in texture. Level 1
Insulation and repulsion were inadequate, level 5 had a strong rough feeling, level 6 had an excessively soft feeling and was slimy, and level 9 had an insufficient soft feeling. The ratio of the entrance width of the groove on the surface of the fine-fineness filament thread to the diameter of the fine-fineness filament thread is in the range of 0.7 to 2.8 times, and the fine-fineness filament thread hardly enters the groove on the surface of the fine-fineness filament thread. I couldn't see it.

Example 2 In accordance with Example 1, the effects of the ratio of the number of filaments to the fineness multifilament yarn of the fineness multifilament yarn and the ratio of the single yarn fineness were confirmed as shown in Table 2. In addition, the number of filaments and the single yarn fineness in the table are the measured values for the constituent yarns of the woven or knitted fabric after the final treatment (therefore,
Fineness multifilament yarn corresponds to the divided segment of the split type composite multifilament yarn).

As shown in the levels 10 to 12 in the ratio of the number of filaments, as the fine-fineness multi-filament yarns of the sheath portion sufficiently cover the large-fineness multi-filament yarns as the core of the mixed yarn, the dyeing unevenness is reduced and the appearance is improved. The quality is improved, and the levels 10 and 11 in which the ratio of the number of filaments is more than 20 times are good. The ratio of the single yarn fineness is 15 times or more, which is necessary to satisfy both the softness and the opposite characteristics such as waist, tension and repulsion, and the levels 14 and 15 are consistent with the object of the present invention. The ratio of the entrance width of the groove on the surface of the fine fineness multifilament yarn to the diameter of the fineness fine multifilament is 1.0 to 1.
In the range of 6 times, almost no intrusion of the fine-fineness filament into the groove on the surface of the large-fineness filament yarn was observed.

[0052]

[Table 1]

[Table 2]

[0053]

The woven or knitted fabric using the different fineness mixed filament yarn of the present invention is a core-sheath structured yarn in which the thick fineness multifilament yarn is the core portion and the ultrafine fineness multifilament yarn is the sheath portion, and the sheath yarn is Because it is a fine filament and a multifilament yarn,
It is a woven and knitted fabric that is extremely soft and does not have defects such as dyeing fluffiness, has a dense feeling, has good properties such as bulge, waist, repulsion and drape, and has a good feel and appearance, and is sufficiently luxurious. is there.

Further, the polymer arrangement of the mixed filament yarns constituting the woven or knitted fabric is enhanced, that is, in the high-definition multifilament yarn constituting the mixed filament yarns, the easily soluble polymer is tapered from the yarn surface toward the inside of the yarn. The woven and knitted fabric can be provided with a sufficiently soft and dry unique texture by arranging the woven fabric. Further, if the surface shape of the high-definition multifilament yarn is made highly irregular, the woven or knitted fabric can have a feeling of creaking and water absorption.

According to the production method of the present invention, for example, when a splitting type composite multifilament yarn is used as the low shrinkage component of the mixed fiber, a superfine multifilament yarn is easily obtained, and the fineness is divided. By arranging the type composite multifilament yarn in the outer peripheral portion and the high shrinkage multifilament yarn of one of the fineness in the central portion, the core-sheath structure of the mixed yarn is emphasized in the woven or knitted fabric, and the mixed fineness of the present invention is mixed. The above effect of the woven or knitted fabric using the fine yarn can be further enhanced.

Further, if the same spinner device and the same spinning method are adopted for spinning the mixed fiber, the core-sheath structure of the mixed fiber is further emphasized, and the effect of the present invention becomes more remarkable.

Further, when a hot water-soluble polymer is used as the easily soluble polymer of the mixed yarn, the restriction on the division or dissolution treatment of the woven or knitted material is greatly reduced, and particularly the strength reduction in the division or dissolution treatment of the woven or knitted material is caused. It can be suppressed sufficiently.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a view showing an example of a sectional shape of a splittable composite yarn according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing an example of a cross-sectional shape of a high shrinkage composite yarn according to the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view showing an example of a mouthpiece device for manufacturing a different shrinkage mixed yarn according to the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a diagram showing the shape of the upper plate discharge holes of the high shrinkage composite yarn portion of the mouthpiece device of FIG.

5 is a view showing a groove shape for inflowing a D component, which is provided in an upper portion of a lower plate of a high shrinkage composite yarn portion in the mouthpiece device of FIG.

FIG. 6 is a view showing a shape of a discharge hole of a composite yarn provided in a lower part of a lower plate of a high shrinkage composite yarn portion of the mouthpiece device of FIG.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1: Segment to be divided 2: Divided component 3: Tapered segment 4: Highly irregular segment 11: Upper plate 12: Lower plate 13: Introduction hole 14: Upper plate discharge hole 15: Polymer reservoir 16: Projection 17: Opening part 18: Lower plate discharge hole 19: Opening part 20: Upper plate discharge hole 21: Polymer reservoir 22: Projection part 23: Groove 24: Open hole part 25: Lower plate discharge hole 26: Partition plate 27: Partition plate A: Cover Divided segment component polymer B: Divided component polymer C: Highly irregular segment component polymer D: Tapered segment component polymer

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification number Office reference number FI technical display location D02G 3/36 D03D 15/04 A 7199-3B

Claims (12)

[Claims] 1. A core-sheath structured yarn in which a single fine multifilament yarn having a fineness of 4 to 10 d is a core portion, and a fine fine multifilament yarn having a single fineness of 0.05 to 0.5 d is a sheath portion. And a fineness multifilament yarn having a ratio of the number of filaments to the large fineness multifilament yarn of 20 times or more, and the fineness multifilament yarn of the large fineness multifilament yarn. A woven or knitted fabric using a mixed yarn of different fineness, wherein the ratio of the single yarn fineness to the filament yarn is 15 times or more. 2. The woven or knitted fabric using a mixed fiber of different fineness according to claim 1, wherein the yarn constituting the mixed yarn of different fineness is polyester. 3. Polymers constituting a high-definition multifilament yarn and / or a fine-fineness multifilament yarn,
The woven or knitted fabric using a mixed yarn of different fineness according to claim 1 or 2, which contains a matting agent in an amount of 1.2 to 10% by weight. 4. The woven or knitted fabric with different fineness mixed fiber according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the multifilament yarn of large fineness has concave grooves continuous in the yarn longitudinal direction on the yarn surface. 5. The difference according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the cross-sectional shape of the high-definition multifilament yarn is a shape in which tapered grooves are formed inward from a plurality of positions on the yarn surface. Woven and knitted fabric using fineness mixed yarn. 6. A different-shrinkage mixed yarn of a split type composite multifilament yarn having a low shrinkage component and a high shrinkage multifilament yarn having a large fineness, which is a segment to be split of the split type composite multifilament yarn. Has a fineness of 0.05 to 0.
5d, the single yarn fineness of the high shrinkage multifilament yarn is 4 to
10d, the ratio of the number of filaments of the splittable composite multifilament yarn to the high-shrinkage multifilament yarn is 4 times or more, and the ratio of the number of divided segments to the number of filaments of the high-shrinkage multifilament yarn is 20. A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric using mixed yarns of different fineness, which comprises forming a woven or knitted fabric with different shrinkage mixed yarns that are double or more, and then subjecting it to heat treatment and division treatment. 7. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric using a mixed yarn of different fineness according to claim 6, wherein the yarns constituting the different shrinkage mixed yarn are polyester. 8. The fineness according to claim 6 or 7, wherein each of the polymers constituting the segment to be divided of the split type composite multifilament yarn and the high shrinkage multifilament yarn contains a matting agent in an amount of 1.2 to 10% by weight. A method for manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric using mixed fiber. 9. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric using a mixed fiber of different fineness according to claim 6, wherein the high shrinkage multifilament yarn has concave grooves continuous in the yarn longitudinal direction on the yarn surface. . 10. The high-shrinkage multifilament yarn has a cross-sectional shape in which a readily-soluble polymer is arranged in a taper shape from a plurality of positions on the yarn surface toward the inside of the yarn.
A method for producing a woven or knitted fabric using a mixed yarn of different fineness according to the item. 11. The hot water-soluble polymer according to claim 6, wherein the polymer constituting the split component of the splittable composite multifilament yarn and / or the tapered segment of the high shrinkage multifilament yarn is a hot water-soluble polymer. A method for manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric using a mixed yarn of different fineness. 12. A woven or knitted fabric using a mixed fiber of different fineness according to any one of claims 6 to 11, wherein the split type composite multifilament yarn and the high shrinkage multifilament yarn are spun from the same spinneret to form a composite mixed fiber. Manufacturing method.