JPH05214633A - Woven fabric for padding cloth and padding cloth - Google Patents

Woven fabric for padding cloth and padding cloth

Info

Publication number
JPH05214633A
JPH05214633A JP3068085A JP6808591A JPH05214633A JP H05214633 A JPH05214633 A JP H05214633A JP 3068085 A JP3068085 A JP 3068085A JP 6808591 A JP6808591 A JP 6808591A JP H05214633 A JPH05214633 A JP H05214633A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
woven fabric
interlining
yarn
spun yarn
padding cloth
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
JP3068085A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JP2845293B2 (en
Inventor
Ikuharu Nishida
郁春 西田
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toyobo Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toyobo Co Ltd filed Critical Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority to JP3068085A priority Critical patent/JP2845293B2/en
Publication of JPH05214633A publication Critical patent/JPH05214633A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP2845293B2 publication Critical patent/JP2845293B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current

Links

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain woven fabric for padding cloth having especially excellent bonding performance, softness and draping properties and padding cloth. CONSTITUTION:Fasciated spun yarn and differently shrinkable combined filament yarn are woven into woven fabric having 7-18 cover factor useful for padding cloth. The woven fabric, without being napped, is processed into woven fabric for padding cloth, having short downy hair-like fluff and short pile-like fluff, softness and excellent draping properties.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【0001】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】本発明は、婦人ドレス、スーツな
どに好適なソフト性とドレープ性とにすぐれ、且つ接着
性にすぐれた芯地用織物及び芯地に関する。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to an interlining fabric and an interlining which are suitable for women's dresses, suits and the like and have excellent softness and drape and adhesiveness.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】近年、婦人服地としてポリエステルフイ
ラメント糸を用いた織物で、新合繊、新々合繊などソフ
トでドレープ性に優れたものが登場してきた。他方、接
着芯地としては、ポリエステル加工糸織物、ポリエステ
ル紡績糸織物、ポリエステル/セルロース混紡糸織物、
ポリノジック紡績糸織物、綿織物などの織物を用いた芯
地が提案されている。
2. Description of the Related Art Recently, a woven fabric using polyester filament yarn as a ladies' clothing has appeared, which is soft and has excellent drapeability such as new synthetic fiber and new synthetic fiber. On the other hand, as the adhesive interlining, polyester processed yarn woven fabric, polyester spun yarn woven fabric, polyester / cellulose blended yarn woven fabric,
Interlinings using woven fabrics such as polynosic spun yarn fabrics and cotton fabrics have been proposed.

【0003】[0003]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】ところで、従来の芯地
用織物は、リング紡績糸で比較的粗目に織られているも
のの、硬い風合でソフトな風合に乏しく婦人用薄地ドレ
ス、ブラウスなどの芯地にはいまだ満足のゆくものでは
なかった。そこで、ソフトなものにするために細番手で
粗密度にする試みが行なわれているものの、芯地にされ
るまでの加工工程で目寄りするなどの問題が生じ、得ら
れる芯地もしわが発生しやすく品質問題があった。ま
た、従来のものは、リング紡績糸を用いて硬い風合であ
るためドレープ性に乏しく表地に悪影響を与えていた。
そこで、出願人は、かかる欠点を解決すべく、結束紡績
糸を用いた芯地を開発し、提案してきたものの、かかる
結束紡績糸使いの芯地はボリュームに若干欠けるという
課題が残っていた。出願人は、かかる課題を解決すべ
く、さらに研究を進め、経糸又は緯糸に異収縮混繊糸を
用いることにより、ボリュームを上げるとともに、さら
に優れた接着性能を有する芯地用織物及び芯地を提供す
ることを目的とする。
By the way, although the conventional interlining fabric is woven with ring spun yarn relatively coarsely, it has a hard texture and a poor soft texture, and it is not suitable for ladies' thin dresses and blouses. The interlining of the was not yet satisfactory. Therefore, in order to make it soft, it is attempted to make it coarse density with a fine count, but problems such as graininess in the processing process until it is made into an interlining occur, and the resulting interlining has wrinkles. It was easy to do and there was a quality problem. Further, the conventional one has a poor drape property because it has a hard texture using a ring spun yarn, and adversely affects the surface material.
Therefore, the applicant has developed and proposed an interlining material using a bound spun yarn in order to solve such a drawback, but the problem that the interlining material using such a bound spun yarn is slightly lacking in volume remains. In order to solve such a problem, the applicant further researched and increased the volume by using a different shrinkage mixed fiber for the warp or the weft, thereby providing an interlining fabric and an interlining having excellent adhesive performance. The purpose is to provide.

【0004】[0004]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明は、かかる課題を
解決するために次の手段を採るものである。すなわち、
本発明は、無撚の繊維束とそのまわりに巻きついた結束
繊維とからなるポリエステル系繊維の結束紡績糸と、異
収縮混繊糸からなる織物であって、該結束紡績糸と該異
収縮混繊糸とが経糸又は緯糸のいずれかに用いられてお
り、該織物の経糸カバーファクターと緯糸カバーファク
ターとの和CFが7〜18の範囲にあることを特徴とす
る芯地用織物、さらに減量加工されてなる芯地用織物、
及び接着剤が塗布されてなる芯地である。但し、カバー
ファクターCFは下記の数2で算出したものである。
The present invention adopts the following means in order to solve such problems. That is,
The present invention relates to a spun yarn of polyester fibers composed of a non-twisted fiber bundle and a bundle of fibers wound around the untwisted fiber bundle, and a woven fabric composed of different-shrink mixed yarns, wherein the spun yarn and the different shrink A mixed fiber is used for either the warp or the weft, and the sum CF of the warp cover factor and the weft cover factor of the woven fabric is in the range of 7 to 18, and further, Interlining fabrics that have been weight-reduced,
And an interlining material to which an adhesive is applied. However, the cover factor CF is calculated by the following mathematical expression 2.

【0005】[0005]

【数2】 [Equation 2]

【0006】以下に、本発明を詳細に説明する。本発明
において、結束紡績糸は経糸又は緯糸のどちらかに用い
られる。これは、低目付であっても、結束紡績糸の芯の
実質無撚の繊維束が結束繊維の結束から解放されてまん
べんなく繊維が配置され、低目付の影響を無くし超ソフ
トな風合いとするためである。この結束紡績糸は、ポリ
エステル系繊維からなるものであり、例としてエチレン
テレフタレート繊維からなるポリエステル繊維、ポリブ
チレンテレフタレート繊維、共重合ポリエステル繊維な
どがあげられる。この結束紡績糸は、実質無撚の芯の繊
維束と、そのまわりにまきついた結束繊維とからなるも
ので、太さは、英式綿番手で10〜100'Sの範囲にあ
るものが好ましい。さらには20〜80'Sが好ましい。
そして、単繊維の太さは、0.1〜1.5デニールが好
ましく、0.3〜1.2デニールがさらに好ましい。ま
た、長さは、等長又は不等長のいずれでも良く、30〜
50mmのものが好ましい。
The present invention will be described in detail below. In the present invention, the bound spun yarn is used as either a warp or a weft. This is because even if it has a low basis weight, the substantially untwisted fiber bundle of the core of the bundled spun yarn is released from the binding of the bundled fibers and the fibers are evenly arranged, so that the influence of the low basis weight is eliminated and the texture is super soft. Is. The bound spun yarn is made of polyester fiber, and examples thereof include polyester fiber made of ethylene terephthalate fiber, polybutylene terephthalate fiber, and copolyester fiber. The bound spun yarn is composed of a fiber bundle of a substantially untwisted core and a bound fiber wound around the core, and the thickness is preferably in the range of 10 to 100'S in English cotton count. Furthermore, 20-80'S is preferable.
The monofilament thickness is preferably 0.1 to 1.5 denier, more preferably 0.3 to 1.2 denier. The length may be equal length or unequal length, and is 30 to
It is preferably 50 mm.

【0007】他方、織物を構成する糸は、前記の結束紡
績糸の他に、異収縮混繊糸であるが、この異収縮混繊維
糸は、高収縮マルチフィラメント糸例えばテレフタール
酸とイソフタール酸が90:10の割合で共重合してな
るコーポリマーのポリエステルマルチフイラメント糸で
沸水収縮率が30〜50%のものや、通常のポリエステ
ルマルチフイラメントの高収縮タイプで沸水収縮率が1
0〜20%のものを片方に、一方にポリエステル低収縮
マルチフイラメント糸(沸水収縮率が3〜8%)を用い
てエアー交絡されたものが好ましく挙げられる。フイラ
メント単糸の太さは、好ましくは0.1〜2.0デニー
ル、さらに好ましくは0.3〜1.5デニールであり、
異収縮混繊糸の太さは20〜200デニールが好まし
く、30〜150デニールがさらに好ましい。異収縮混
繊糸としては、低収縮成分が9%以下、高収縮成分が1
0%以上好ましくは20%以上の沸水収縮率を有するの
が好ましい。
On the other hand, the yarns constituting the woven fabric are, in addition to the above-mentioned binding spun yarn, different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns. This different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn contains high shrinkage multifilament yarns such as terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid. A polyester multifilament yarn of a copolymer obtained by copolymerization at a ratio of 90:10 and having a boiling water shrinkage of 30 to 50%, or a high shrinkage type of a normal polyester multifilament having a boiling water shrinkage of 1
Preferable ones are air entangled with 0 to 20% of one and polyester low shrinkage multifilament yarn (boiling water shrinkage of 3 to 8%) on one side. The filament single yarn has a thickness of preferably 0.1 to 2.0 denier, more preferably 0.3 to 1.5 denier,
The thickness of the heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarn is preferably 20 to 200 denier, more preferably 30 to 150 denier. As a different shrinkage mixed yarn, low shrinkage component is 9% or less, high shrinkage component is 1
It is preferable to have a boiling water shrinkage of 0% or more, preferably 20% or more.

【0008】前記結束紡績糸と異収縮混繊糸とを、経糸
または緯糸に用いて交織されるものである。数2におい
て、W、Fは経糸、緯糸の密度(本/in)、Ne、N
e′は経糸、緯糸の英式綿番手である。結束紡績糸を経
糸に用いたときには、異収縮混繊糸は緯糸に用い、他
方、結束紡績糸を緯糸に用いたときには異収縮混繊糸は
経糸に用いることになる。この際、異収縮混繊糸はデニ
ールから英式綿番手に換算して数2にそう入してカバー
ファクターを算出する。カバーファクターCFが7未満
になると、染色加工で目寄りが発生し、18をこえると
ソフト風合を損なうので好ましくない。かくして、潜在
的に短いうぶ毛状の毛羽と短いパイル状の毛羽をそな
え、ソフトでドレープ性を具えた織物用芯地が得られ
る。
The bound spun yarn and the different shrinkage mixed yarn are used as warp or weft yarns and interwoven. In Formula 2, W and F are the warp and weft densities (pieces / in), Ne and N
e'is an English cotton count of warp and weft. When the bound spun yarn is used as the warp, the different shrinkage mixed fiber is used as the weft, while when the bound spun yarn is used as the weft, the different shrinkage mixed fiber is used as the warp. At this time, the different shrinkage mixed filament yarn is converted from denier into English cotton count, and the cover factor is calculated by inserting into the number 2. When the cover factor CF is less than 7, the dyeing process causes unevenness, and when it exceeds 18, the soft feeling is impaired, which is not preferable. A soft, drapeable textile interlining with potentially short downy and short pile fluff is thus obtained.

【0009】さらに、前記の織物用芯地は、さらに、好
ましくは精練およびリラックス処理を施した後、苛性ソ
ーダ30〜40%濃度の処理液の連続減量加工機で加工
し、重量比で10〜35%減量加工され、この後液流染
色機にて染色加工を施されることになる。この段階で、
結束紡績糸特有の短かく密度の多い毛羽が発生し、この
毛羽はうぶ毛状を呈し、繊維同志の交錯点における摩擦
抵抗力を増大させて生機密度を粗くしても目寄りの発生
を殆んど無いようにして超ソフトな風合いにすることに
寄与するものである。他方、異収縮混繊糸は、収縮の発
現によって異収縮フイラメントのループ構造によるふく
らみを起こし、前記毛羽効果との相乗効果により、ボリ
ュームが増大するとともに接着性が増し、ドレープ性に
すぐれた、婦人スーツ、ドレス用のウール、化合繊素材
の表地に対して接着性及び適合性の良い芯地用織物が得
られる。このようにして得られた芯地用織物は、さらに
芯地用の接着剤が好ましくは点状にまたは全面に塗布さ
れて芯地が得られる。接着剤の例としては、ポリエチレ
ン系またはポリエステル系接着剤などがあげられる。も
ちろん、接着剤の塗布のかわりに接着繊維を含めて行っ
てもよい。
Further, the textile interlining is preferably further subjected to scouring and relaxing treatments, and then processed with a continuous weight loss processing machine of a processing solution having a caustic soda concentration of 30 to 40% to obtain a weight ratio of 10 to 35. % Reduction processing, and after that, dyeing processing is performed by a jet dyeing machine. At this stage,
The short and dense fluff peculiar to the binding spun yarn is generated, and the fluff has a downy fluffy shape, and the friction resistance at the crossing points of the fibers is increased, and even if the greige density is made rough, the occurrence of eye slip is almost eliminated. It contributes to making the texture very soft by avoiding it. On the other hand, the different-shrinkage mixed filament yarn causes bulging due to the loop structure of the different-shrinkage filament due to the expression of shrinkage, and the synergistic effect with the fluff effect increases the volume and the adhesiveness, and is excellent in drapeability. It is possible to obtain an interlining fabric that has good adhesiveness and compatibility with the surface material of wool for suits and dresses and synthetic fiber materials. The interlining fabric thus obtained is further coated with an adhesive for interlining, preferably in spots or on the entire surface to obtain the interlining. Examples of adhesives include polyethylene-based or polyester-based adhesives. Of course, instead of applying the adhesive, the adhesive fiber may be included.

【0010】[0010]

【実施例】ポリエチレンテレフタレートよりなるポリエ
ステルステープル(0.7デニール×38mm等長カッ
ト)を100%用いて60′s /1の結束紡績糸を製造
した。また、テレフタール酸とイソフタール酸が90:
10の割合で共重合されたコーポリマーのポリエステル
マルチフイラメント糸(37.5デニール/30フイラ
メント、沸水収縮率40%)を高収縮成分とし、通常の
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸(37.5デニール
/30フイラメント、沸水収縮率6%)を低収縮成分と
して、両者をエアー混繊して交絡数35〜40ケ/mの
異収縮混繊糸(75デニール/60フイラメント)を製
造し、これを緯糸に、前記結束紡績糸を経糸に用いて、
経密度40本/in、緯密度50本/inの平織を織成
した。ここで、カバーファクターCFは11.10であ
った。該生機を精練リラックス後、乾熱リラックスを行
い、プレヒートセット後連続減量機により重量比で32
%の減量加工を施した後、液流染色機にて染色仕上げを
施したところ、うぶ毛状の高密度毛羽と異収縮混繊糸の
ループ状のパイルが発生し、ドレープ性の優れたソフト
でしかもバルキーに富んだ芯地用織物が得られた。この
織物にポリエチレン系の接着剤を点状に塗布して芯地に
仕上げて表地に付着したところ、表地のドレープ性など
の風合いを損なうこともなく、好評なものが得られた。
Example A 100 'polyester / staple (0.7 denier x 38 mm equal length cut) 100% polyester fiber was used to produce a 60's / 1 bundled spun yarn. Also, terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid are 90:
Copolymer polyester multifilament yarn (37.5 denier / 30 filament, boiling water shrinkage 40%) copolymerized at a ratio of 10 was used as a high shrinkage component, and ordinary polyester multifilament yarn (37.5 denier / 30 filament) was used. , A boiling water shrinkage rate of 6%) as a low shrinkage component and air-blended both to produce a different shrinkage mixed yarn (75 denier / 60 filament) having an entanglement number of 35 to 40 / m, which is used as a weft yarn. Using the united spun yarn as a warp yarn,
A plain weave having a warp density of 40 yarns / in and a weft density of 50 yarns / in was woven. Here, the cover factor CF was 11.10. After scouring and relaxing the raw machine, dry heat relaxation is performed, and after preheat setting, the weight ratio is 32 by a continuous weight loss machine.
After applying a weight reduction process and then dyeing with a jet dyeing machine, fluffy high-density fluff and loop piles of different shrinkage mixed yarns are generated, and soft with excellent drapeability. Moreover, a bulky textile for interlining was obtained. When a polyethylene-based adhesive was applied in dots to this woven fabric to finish it as an interlining material and adhere it to the outer material, a favorable evaluation was obtained without impairing the drape property of the outer material.

【0011】[0011]

【発明の効果】本発明によれば起毛加工なしで、こまか
く、短い、うぶ毛状の毛羽と短いパイル状の毛羽があ
り、ソフトでしかもドレープ性の良好な接着用芯地織物
となり接着樹脂塗布がしやすく、かつ樹脂透過(樹脂も
れ)のないものが得られる。
EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, an adhesive interlining fabric having a fine, short, downy and fluff-like fluff and a short pile-like fluff, which is soft and has a good drapability, is obtained without applying a raising process. It can be easily peeled off and can be obtained without resin permeation (resin leakage).

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.5 識別記号 庁内整理番号 FI 技術表示箇所 D06M 11/38 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. 5 Identification code Internal reference number FI technical display location D06M 11/38

Claims (3)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 無撚の繊維束とそのまわりに巻きついた
結束繊維とからなるポリエステル系繊維の結束紡績糸
と、異収縮混繊糸とからなる織物であって、該結束紡績
糸と該異収縮混繊糸とが経糸又は緯糸のいずれかに用い
られており、該織物の経糸カバーファクターと緯糸カバ
ーファクターとの和CFが7〜18の範囲にあることを
特徴とする芯地用織物。但し、CFは下記の数1で定義
される。 【数1】
1. A woven fabric composed of a spun yarn of polyester fibers composed of a non-twisted fiber bundle and a bundle of fibers wound around the untwisted fiber bundle, and a heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarn, the spun yarn and the spun yarn. The different shrinkage mixed yarn is used for either warp or weft, and the sum CF of the warp cover factor and the weft cover factor of the woven fabric is in the range of 7-18. .. However, CF is defined by the following formula 1. [Equation 1]
【請求項2】 請求項1に記載の芯地用織物が減量加工
されてなる芯地用織物。
2. An interlining fabric obtained by reducing the interlining fabric according to claim 1.
【請求項3】 請求項1又は2の芯地用織物に接着剤が
塗布されてなる芯地。
3. An interlining formed by applying an adhesive to the interlining fabric according to claim 1.
JP3068085A 1991-03-06 1991-03-06 Interlining fabric and interlining Expired - Fee Related JP2845293B2 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP3068085A JP2845293B2 (en) 1991-03-06 1991-03-06 Interlining fabric and interlining

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP3068085A JP2845293B2 (en) 1991-03-06 1991-03-06 Interlining fabric and interlining

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH05214633A true JPH05214633A (en) 1993-08-24
JP2845293B2 JP2845293B2 (en) 1999-01-13

Family

ID=13363552

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP3068085A Expired - Fee Related JP2845293B2 (en) 1991-03-06 1991-03-06 Interlining fabric and interlining

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JP2845293B2 (en)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004015182A1 (en) * 2002-08-07 2004-02-19 Toyo Boseki Kabushiki Kaisya Woven or knit fabric and process for producing the same

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004015182A1 (en) * 2002-08-07 2004-02-19 Toyo Boseki Kabushiki Kaisya Woven or knit fabric and process for producing the same

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JP2845293B2 (en) 1999-01-13

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