JPH04272246A - Filament-staple composite yarn and production thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To produce the subject synthetic fiber yarn for clothing, excellent in stiffness and resiliency in spite of its soft touch, having a natural and uniform visual appearance and high sensible unlike the conventional yarns and to provide a rational method for production thereof. CONSTITUTION:A filament-staple composite yarn composed of mutually intertwisted uniformly cold drawn and non-crimped filament fibers (A) and non-crimped staple fibers (B) having a lower shrinkage percentage in boiling water than that of the above-mentioned filament fibers and having one or both the tapered ends in a state where the staple fibers (B) form loops around the filament fibers (A) with different amplitudes of projection.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

0001

[Industrial Application Field] The present invention provides strong tension, elasticity, and resilience, as well as a soft and soft touch that is completely contradictory to these properties, as well as a very uniform span-like appearance and touch. The present invention relates to a synthetic fiber yarn for clothing that is highly sensitive and a method for producing the same.

0002

[Prior Art] Strong tension, elasticity, and repulsion and soft touch are mutually exclusive characteristics, and highly sensitive clothing materials that have both characteristics at the same time are the best among natural fibers such as silk, wool, and cotton. Research has been conducted to meet the above requirements not only for synthetic fibers but also for natural fibers, but in general, sufficient products have not yet been developed. The current situation is that this is not the case. This is because it is extremely difficult to express both characteristics with a single material, and various methods have been used to date, mainly by compositing fibers of different thickness. However, when the composite material consists only of short fibers, it is difficult to obtain stiffness and repulsion because the fiber length is short or the fibers have crimps due to buckling. Therefore, as the denier increases, problems such as the exposed fiber ends on the yarn surface become scratchy and impair the texture, as well as blending unevenness of thick and thin fibers and draft unevenness tend to occur, making it difficult to obtain a uniform yarn. There was a problem that it was difficult to

On the other hand, in the case of only long fibers consisting of filaments of different deniers, it is difficult to uniformly open the filaments in the order of single fibers or filaments, and the heat shrinkage of both yarns is at the same level within each yarn. There are problems in that the filaments of the thick denier group and the fine denier group form blocks with each other, resulting in mixed fiber unevenness, and that thick fibers tend to be exposed on the yarn surface. In addition, there is the problem that fine denier filaments form loops like so-called Taslan yarns, making it impossible to obtain high repulsion properties, and because of the long fibers, the appearance is uniform, monotonous, and has an artificial and sensitive spun texture, which is natural. There were problems in that it was difficult to obtain a good appearance and lacked quality.

Furthermore, in the case of short fibers as well as in the case of long fibers, there is a problem in that it is difficult to insert thick fibers into the core of the yarn and position thin fibers uniformly in the sheath of the yarn.

By the way, in order to improve these drawbacks, cases of long and short composite yarns in which short fibers and long fibers are combined, such as (1) core spun in which long fibers are inserted into the core of the yarn in the spinning process of the spinning process, (2) JP-A No. 59-82424 and JP-A No. 60-
As seen in Publication No. 2715, etc., a group of fine denier filaments is torn into strips and combined with another group of thick denier filaments, or ■ JP-A-57-5
As seen in Publication No. 932, a long fiber bundle consisting of filaments with high elongation and thick denier and filaments with low elongation and fine denier is drawn with a drawing machine or a drawing false twister,
At this time, there are so-called long and short composite yarns, such as those made by cutting and conjugating fine denier filaments.

[0006]

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] However, with these methods, it has not yet been possible to obtain a product with a quality that satisfies both appearance and texture. In other words, in the case of ■, since the long fibers and short fibers are simply combined and twisted, (a) the conjugation and entanglement between them is weak, making it difficult to handle with soft twist or medium twist, and (b) long fiber comparison. (c) Fine denier fibers are shorter fibers, so it is difficult to spin them when they become thinner fibers of 0.8 de or less, or (d) The process is complicated and productivity is low. There are problems such as low cost and high cost. In the case of (a), since the thick denier filament group is inserted with high tension from the middle of the yarn processing process, it is difficult to open the filament, and the conjugation of the stretched fine denier filament and the thick denier filament is difficult. (b) While thin denier filaments are torn to pieces at room temperature, thick denier filaments are simply pulled together, and it is not possible to greatly reduce the thermal shrinkage of the former compared to the latter. There are problems such as (c) it is difficult to obtain the covering effect of a thick denier filament with a thin denier filament, or (c) stretch cut spots are likely to occur and it is difficult to obtain a fine count yarn. Furthermore, in the case of ■, the stretch-cut ratio is small, so the stretch-cut fiber length tends to be long compared to the stretch-cut length.
In addition, the spacing between the nip rollers of a general drawing machine or drawing false twisting machine is long, and if the tension is cut at this spacing, (a) the average fiber length will be 600 to 700 mm or more, and the uneven pitch will be natural. (b) The nip roller, which is equivalent to a tension-cut roller, is a wrap-type roller that does not have a single point nip, or is generally used even with a single point nip, and is several kg/roller width 1 cm. With the nip force of a rubber roller or apron roller that has a certain amount of contact pressure, it is easy to cause fiber slips and nip irregularities at the nip point, making it difficult to cut evenly. When cutting a small fiber bundle,
The convergence of the fiber bundle is weak, and the free ends of the stretch-cut fibers are affected by air resistance and accompanying airflow on the surface of the stretch-cut roller, making it difficult to hold them uniformly between the nip rollers, and stretch-cut spots are likely to occur. , (d) When heated with a hot roller or plate heater, the tensile stress of the fiber bundle is low, making it easy to stretch even with a slight force and cause stretch marks to occur, and the free ends of the stretch cut fibers to shrink due to heat. It is extremely difficult to achieve uniform stretch cutting due to reasons such as the tendency for staining spots to occur. In addition, if the filament group is heated with a heater and tension-cut, the tension-cut fibers will be heat-set.
The difference in heat shrinkage between filaments of different deniers is small, making it impossible to obtain bulk, and when drawn and false-twisted, crimping occurs, and because the filaments are not twisted, the bulk differs between bound and unbound parts, resulting in uneven appearance. There are also problems such as the occurrence of drying, the soft texture unique to false twisted crimped yarns, and the difference in heat shrinkage between filaments of different deniers being reduced due to the influence of heat setting.

[0007] The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems, and provides a synthetic fiber for clothing with high sensitivity, which is soft to the touch, has elasticity, elasticity, and has a natural and uniform appearance and spun touch. The purpose is to provide yarn and a rational means for producing it.

[0008]

[Means for solving the problems] According to the present invention, (1)
Long fibers (A) that are both non-crimped and uniformly cold-stretched and short fibers (B) that have a smaller boiling water shrinkage rate than the long fibers and have at least one end tapered are entangled. and (2) long and short composite yarns characterized by the presence of short fibers (B) around long fibers (A) forming loops with different overhang amplitudes. A spun blended yarn consisting of a filament and a fine denier filament with low elongation is passed through a stretch cutting process at a stretch cutting ratio of at most 2 times or less to achieve an elongation in the intermediate elongation region between high elongation filaments and low elongation filaments. When only filaments with low elongation are stretched and cut by tension cutting, the stretching ratio of tension cutting is set to be equal to or higher than the primary yield point of the high elongation filament and 80% or less of the cutting elongation, and the mixed fiber during tension cutting. A method for manufacturing long and short composite yarn is provided, which comprises pressing a planar guide with a smooth surface against at least part of the side surface of the yarn.

The present invention will be explained in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

FIG. 1(a) is a side view of the long and short composite yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 1(b) is a partially enlarged view thereof.

In the figure, A is a long fiber that is not crimped and is uniformly cold-stretched during stretch cutting. B is a short fiber that is non-crimped and has a lower boiling water shrinkage rate than A, and has at least one end tapered, a part of which protrudes as a free end b1,
The remaining portions are entangled with the long fibers A in the form of loops b2 formed around the long fibers A with different overhang amplitudes. Here, the protruding end of short fibers is usually tapered,
The other end entangled in the long fiber A may also become tapered.

[0012] In order to obtain the desired long and short composite yarn, both the long fibers (A) and the short fibers (B) must be non-crimped (
Requirement a), the long fiber (A) must be uniformly cold-stretched during tension cutting (requirement B), the boiling water shrinkage rate of the short fiber (B) is lower than that of the long fiber (requirement c), The fibers (B) must be tapered at least at one end (requirement d), and the short fibers (B) must form loops with different overhang amplitudes around the long fibers (A) (requirement e) is assumed. The significance of each requirement is as follows. Requirement a: When spun yarn or false-twisted yarn is crimped, the hardness and recovery properties against bending will decrease, resulting in poor texture such as tension, waist, and repulsion, as well as inappropriate elasticity and bulk. This results in a soft texture, and the quality of the yarn is not much different from that of conventional spun yarn or false twisted yarn. Requirement b: It is necessary to have a high boiling water shrinkage rate for short fibers, and cold drawing is necessary in order to easily set the bent structure of the yarn due to the textile structure in the dyeing and finishing process and to obtain a resilient texture. , and must be evenly stretched to prevent staining. Requirement c On the other hand, if the short fibers have a higher boiling water shrinkage rate, the thick denier long fibers will sag and tend to come out on the surface of the yarn, making it impossible to obtain a soft touch. Requirement d: By tapering at least one end, especially the protruding end, of short fibers, such as natural fibers such as wool and cotton, a softer touch texture can be obtained, and the length of the short fibers As the physical properties change, a more complex and natural aggregate structure can be obtained. Requirement e As a result of the above, boiling water shrinkage gradually changes along the length of the short fibers (generally highest in the center and gradually decreases towards the ends); The amplitude of the protruding short fibers varies from large to medium, and
It has improved resistance to bending and recovery, giving it a texture that is rich in tension, elasticity, and resilience, as well as a moderate amount of fullness.

Furthermore, in the composite yarn of the present invention, under the essential requirements (a) to (e) above, the following requirements (
It is preferable to satisfy i) to (vii). Requirement (i) dA /dB ≧2 [dA; single fiber denier of long fiber A, dB; short fiber denier of short fiber B] (ii) dB <2 (iii) 3.3≧DA /DB ≧0.3 [D
A; total denier of long fiber A, DB; total denier of short fiber B] (iv) lB /lA ≧1.01 [lA;
Yarn length (mm) of composite yarn measured under 2 mg/de load,
The yarn length (mm) of the composite yarn when the yarn in the state of lB ; lA is stretched and the short fiber loops protruding from the sides of the long fibers almost disappear] (v) LB /LA ≧1.03 [ LA: Yarn length (mm) of composite yarn measured after being treated with boiling water for 20 minutes under a load of 2 mg/de and dried, LB: LA
(mm)] (vi) S≦25 [S; boiling water shrinkage rate of composite yarn (%)] (vii) 60>Lm>10 [Lm; average fiber length of short fibers (cm)] The requirement of (i) is important for producing a composite effect on texture, and furthermore, 6≧d
Particularly preferred is A/dB≧4. In this case, requirement (ii) emerges from the aspect of soft touch. Furthermore, the requirement (iii) is to simultaneously satisfy the requirements (i) of strong tension, waist, and repulsion, and the contradictory soft touch. The requirement (iv) is derived from the fact that the short fibers (B) form loops with different amplitudes around the long fibers (A),
The lower limit requires that the length of the short fibers (B) be longer than that of the long fibers. Similarly, requirement (v) requires long fibers (A
) and the short fibers (B) shrink upon boiling water treatment, which is a requirement for the composite yarn as a whole to exhibit more bulk. Requirements (vi
) needs to have a certain degree of boiling water shrinkage in order to obtain more bulk through boiling water treatment as a whole composite yarn.
If the boiling water shrinkage rate exceeds 25%, the practical handling properties will deteriorate. The requirement (vii) is effective for obtaining a natural-looking composite yarn.

Particularly preferable embodiments of the above-mentioned long and short composite yarn are as follows. ■ The boiling water shrinkage rate gradually changes along the length of the short fibers, and is greater in the center than at both ends, with an average boiling water shrinkage rate of 16% or less. This requirement allows for the presence of differentially contracted parts within the entire composite yarn to express the bulkiness and soft touch made up of multilayer loops. However, when the boiling water shrinkage rate exceeds 16%, the shrinkage difference with the long fibers decreases, the bulkiness decreases, and the long fibers become easily exposed, resulting in a rough texture. ■ The short fibers are a. Migrate between non-crimped continuous filaments in the cross-sectional direction of the composite yarn and become entangled with the continuous filaments; b. In the longitudinal direction of the composite yarn, in addition to protruding as free ends from the side surfaces of the continuous filament yarn, the multilayer structure is formed by being dispersed with different overhang amplitudes, and thereby the cross-sectional and longitudinal direction of the composite yarn A latent and random boiling water shrinkage difference is added to the fibers, and the covering performance of the long fiber A is added to the fibers. ■ The composite yarn as a whole exhibits a sense of symmetry as specified by the U% formula below.

[0015] U·N1/2≦104 [U: actually measured U percentage (%), N: number of constituent fibers in an arbitrary cross section of the composite yarn (number)] ■ The composite yarn material is polyester fiber. ■ In particular, 6≧dA≧3
, dB <0.8, 1.52≧DA/DB ≧0.2
Must be 5. As a result, long and short composite yarns exhibiting a high-quality texture similar to that of ultra-long staple fibers can be obtained.

Next, the method for manufacturing the long and short composite yarn according to the present invention will be described.

[0017]Compared to yarns made only of short fibers, long and short composite yarns have the advantage that the hardness and resiliency of thick denier fibers can be used more effectively, and there is less deterioration in tactile sensation when exposed on the yarn surface. be. On the other hand, compared to the case of only long fibers, the fine denier fibers are subjected to stretch-cutting, which gives them thickness and fluff, which has the advantage of greatly improving the natural feel. In addition, compared to conventional general spinning methods, the stretch-cut no-twist conjugate spinning method can lengthen the fibers, provide a complex heat shrinkage distribution, and has an overwhelmingly fast processing speed, making it superior in terms of texture and productivity. ing. For these reasons, the present inventors conducted various studies on the production of long and short composite yarns using this stretch-cut, no-twist spinning method. However, after conducting various actual studies, it was found that the long and short composite yarn produced by this tension-cutting, non-twist spinning method is very prone to uneven thickness, yarn defects, yarn breakage during processing, etc. In other words, the manufacturing method turned out to be extremely difficult, as can be seen from the fact that although many patent proposals have been made, no actual product has ever been commercially available. The reason for this is that when short fibers are composited with long fibers, it is necessary to reduce the amount of short fibers by the amount of long fibers to make them thinner, which reduces the number of constituent short fibers and reduces the cohesiveness of the short fibers. As a result,
We determined that this is because the wheels become more susceptible to the effects of air resistance, accompanying airflow around the nip rollers, rebound shock during tension cutting, and static electricity while running. In particular, when the fibers supplied for tension cutting are thick, the fibers being tension cut are cut at a high magnification, so if the speed of the fibers during tension cutting changes even by an inch, the number of fibers nipped by the tension cutting roller changes, resulting in thick spots, yarn breakage, etc. On the other hand, if the supplied fibers are thin, the running speed of the fibers during tension cutting increases as the fibers are cut at a low magnification, making them susceptible to disturbances caused by air resistance and wraps of the supply rollers. Defects and thread breakage are likely to occur. Furthermore, the arrangement form, bundling, amount of oil coating, strength and elongation, and uniformity of the constituent fibers of the raw yarn to be supplied also have a sensitive effect.

Therefore, as a result of intensive research to overcome these disadvantages, the inventors of the present invention have developed a crimped filament consisting of a filament group with a thick denier and high elongation and a filament group with a thin denier and low elongation. After supplying the spun mixed fiber yarn that has not been applied to the tension cutting area and increasing the spread state by bending the mixed fiber yarn, with a planar guide pressed against the side surface of the mixed fiber yarn,
It has been found that when stretched at a magnification where only the low elongation filaments are cut without the high elongation filaments being cut, surprisingly uniform tensile cutting properties can be achieved. In other words, by bending the mixed fiber yarn and running it while rubbing, the entanglement and adhesion of the constituent filaments in the mixed fiber yarn are released, and each single fiber can be cut without interfering with each other too much. In addition, the high elongation filament group and the low elongation filament group mix well, so as a result, the short fibers run while being held by the long fibers, and the short fibers absorb air. This allows for stable running without being affected by resistance or accompanying airflow around the tension roller. Furthermore, if a guide is pressed against the side of the mixed fiber yarn being tension-cut, the fibers to be tension-cut will run in a state sandwiched between the fibers that are not tension-cut and the guide, causing further air resistance and tension-cutting. It was confirmed that the roller was less susceptible to the effects of accompanying airflow around the roller. However, if the mixed yarn to be supplied is one that is less tangled and has good opening properties using an oil agent that has less static electricity and less focusing, the above-mentioned "bending" is not necessarily necessary.

FIG. 2 shows the process of the tension-cutting no-twist spinning method, in which (a) is the conventional method, and (b) is the process in which the yarn is bent by the guide 8 at the tension-cutting part of the process of (a). thing, (c) is (b
In step (a) or (b), a contact-type planar guide 10 is pressed against the side surface of the yarn being cut in tension, instead of the non-contact chute 9 in step (a) or (b). Table 1 shows that the single fiber denier is 4.6 and the total denier is 18.
．． 4. Three untwisted spun blend yarns consisting of a group of high elongation filaments with an elongation of 75% and a group of low elongation filaments with a single fiber denier of 0.5, a total denier of 40, and an elongation of 20%. The results of passing the doubled yarn through the various steps shown in FIG. 1 are shown. That is, the above raw yarn 1 is stretched 1.3 times between the supply roller 2 and the tension cutting roller 3, and only the low elongation filament group is tension cut, passed through the take-up nozzle 4, and then entangled in the entangling nozzle 5. After that, it is taken up by a take-up roller 6 and wound up by a winding machine 7. Here, 9 is a non-contact chute with a concave cross section, and the yarn being cut runs without contacting the inner wall surface of the chute. In addition, as the take-up nozzle of 4,
Generally, a swirling flow nozzle is used, and as the entangled nozzle 5, a swirling flow nozzle, an interlace nozzle, or a nozzle having both functions is used, but a swirling flow nozzle was used here.

Table 1 shows the physical properties of the long and short composite yarns obtained in each of the above steps. From this result, in the process shown in FIG.
It can be seen that both yarn defects (thickness, yarn defects) are greatly improved, and at the same time, the number of yarn breaks is also greatly improved, and productivity is also improved.

[0021]

[Table 1] Raw yarn used: 4.6 denier, 4 filaments spun using caps with two types of hole shapes of different areas,
High elongation filament group with elongation of 75% and 0.5 denier,
A polyester spun blend yarn consisting of 80 filaments and a group of low elongation filaments with an elongation of 20%.

Stretch cutting conditions: (a), (b), (
Three of the above-mentioned raw yarns were fed into each step of c) and processed at a tension cutting ratio of 1.3 times and a processing speed of 400 m/min. The cutting length is 28cm.

Particularly according to step (c) of the invention, the following formula U
・N1/2 ≦104 [N; Number of constituent fibers (pieces) in an arbitrary cross section of the composite yarn,
U: actually measured U percentage (%)] By conveniently substituting the sum of the number of fibers of the high elongation filament group and the low elongation filament group for N, U・N1/2 = 6
1.5, and the spun yarn obtained in the ordinary spinning process is U.
Since N1/2 = 104 to 128, it can be seen that long and short composite yarns with surprising uniformity can be obtained.

Here, as shown in FIG. 2(d), the degree of bending given to the yarn in the tension cutting zone is such that the radius of curvature r≦1.
0, the bending angle θ≦160° is preferable, and if it is larger than this, it is difficult to obtain a sufficient fiber opening effect. Further, the bending guide 8 can be inserted at any position between the supply roller and the tension cutting zone. Examples of the guide shape include a round bar shape and a plate shape. It is preferable that the material be made of a material that is resistant to abrasion, but if the traverse method is used to prevent the thread from rubbing against only one point on the guide, the material can be freely selected.

Next, a planar guide that is pressed against the side surface of the yarn being cut will be described. It makes light contact along the side of the yarn up to the nip point of the tension cutting roller, and the shape and pressing angle can be freely selected. In other words, it is plate-shaped. There are shapes such as a curved plate shape, a pipe shape, and a grooved plate shape, but the material that contacts the thread is preferably smooth, hard to wear, and does not generate static electricity. The meaning of "contact" is to run the cut low elongation filament while being held between the uncut high elongation filament and the plate guide to prevent the cut short fibers from scattering or being disturbed.

[0026] Furthermore, the cutting length will be described. In the present invention, a mixed yarn consisting of a group of high elongation filaments and a group of low elongation filaments is supplied to a tension cutting zone, and only the low elongation yarn is cut by applying an intermediate stretch between the elongations of both yarns. Therefore, the tension-cutting magnification is at most 2 times or less, which is quite different from the conventional tension-cutting no-twist spinning method, which is on the order of 30 to 10 times. In other words, since the speed of the supply roller is much faster than before, the length of the yarn fed from the supply roller cannot be ignored, and we investigated the phenomenon that the average fiber length of the stretch-cut fibers becomes longer than in the case of conventional high stretch-cutting ratios. I decided. Table 2 uses raw yarn of 64de/144fil and elongation of 18%.
Using the process shown in Fig. 2(c), adjust the number of doubling yarns of the raw yarn so that the result is 130De for each of the low and high tension cutting ratios,
These are the results of measuring the average fiber length of the yarn obtained by subjecting it to stretch cutting. Surprisingly, when a low stretch cutting ratio is used, there are cases where the average fiber length becomes longer than the stretch cutting length. Therefore, in the case of the conventional stretch cut length or the one using a normal drawing machine (a) or drawing false twisting machine (b) as shown in Fig. 3, the fiber length is too long and the uneven pitch becomes long, and the filament-like This results in an unnatural appearance, which is not desirable. That is, an appropriate average fiber length is required to be 50 cm or less, preferably 30 cm or less, in terms of product appearance, and therefore, the stretch length should be approximately 50 cm or less, preferably 30 cm or less.

Note that in FIG. 3, 11 is a heater;
2 is a false twist spinner.

[0028]

[Table 2] Raw yarn used; total denier 64 de, single yarn denier 0.4 d
e, elongation 18% Processing conditions: Use the process shown in Figure 2(c). The number of yarns to be supplied is adjusted by the tension cutting ratio so that the processed denier is the same. The processing speed is 400m/min.

According to the method of the present invention, the supplied yarn is well opened and the high elongation filament group and the low elongation filament group are well mixed, and the yarn is uniformly unaffected by air resistance and other disturbances. Because they are cut and conjugated, in terms of yarn performance, the short fibers migrate between the long fibers and combine with the long fibers, and the free ends protrude from the sides of the long fibers, as shown in Figure 1(b). A multilayer structure is also formed in which the short fibers are uniformly dispersed, partially wrapped around each other, or with different overhang amplitudes, so that a state in which the short fibers cover the long fibers can be obtained.

[0030]Furthermore, long fibers (thick denier filament group) have a lower orientation and are cold-stretched, resulting in larger heat shrinkage, while short fibers have a heat shrinkage distribution in the length direction because they are torn to shreds. , the orientation is higher than that of long fibers and the heat shrinkage is lower. For this reason, a group of thick denier filaments acts as a core, and around it, thin denier short fibers randomly increase the bulk, exhibiting potential heat shrinkage performance. As a result, when finished in a woven or knitted fabric, the surface has a very soft touch, while also having strong elasticity and repulsion, resulting in a highly sensitive product with an unprecedentedly excellent texture and a uniform, natural appearance. is obtained.

Regarding the single fiber denier, Table 3 shows the relationship between the single fiber denier of long fibers and short fibers, hand and processability.

[0032]

[Table 3] In order to obtain a soft-touch feel, it goes without saying that the shorter the short fibers, the better, and from the viewpoint of the feel, it is useful to make the short fiber denier 2 deniers or less. Here, set this to 0.
If the thickness is reduced to 8 denier or less, it is possible to obtain a product with a high feel like a product made of high-quality cotton such as Supima cotton or Sea Island cotton. Furthermore, the single fiber denier ratio of long fibers and short fibers is also important in terms of texture, and it is important to satisfy the requirement of single fiber denier of long fibers/single fiber denier of short fibers≧2. Table 4 shows the relationship between the total denier of long fibers and short fibers and the texture. preferable. In other words, when the single fiber denier and total denier of long fibers and short fibers and the ratio thereof are within the above ranges, it is possible to create a highly sensitive clothing composition that simultaneously satisfies especially strong tension, elasticity, and repulsion as well as the contradictory soft touch. Fiber is obtained.

[0033]

[Table 4] Total denier: 130de long fiber Single fiber denier: 4.2de short fiber; 0.4de texture
; As is clear from the above huddle evaluation after boiling the tubular knitted fabric, what is important in obtaining the long and short composite processed yarn of the present invention is that the spun mixed fiber yarn, which is the raw yarn, is The fibers are highly opened and randomly cut. In this sense, the above-mentioned spun blend yarn has such latent properties (high spreadability, random breakability).
It is also useful to add .

As a specific measure, a compound having antistatic properties and solid at room temperature is attached to the spun mixed fiber yarn as a spinning oil, and a light coating of 10 ke/m or less is applied to the spun mixed fiber yarn. It has been found that adding confounding is extremely useful. According to the studies of the present inventors on this point, it is extremely insufficient to simply create structural defects inside the filaments as in the past, but rather to increase the interaction between filaments in order to cause random cutting. It has been found that the most important thing is to reduce the convergence to an extremely low level compared to conventional multifilaments. More specifically, the most important properties required for spun blended yarns are that the filaments are sufficiently focused before being wound on a winder, and then when this raw yarn is subjected to processing that involves cutting. This means that it is easily defocused and randomly cut. As an oil agent for this purpose, one that becomes solid at room temperature, for example, an alkyl group with an average carbon number of 12 to 1.
Preferably, the composition is formulated to contain 70% by weight or more of an alkyl phosphate potassium salt having an average carbon number of 8 to 18 and/or a fatty acid alkali metal salt having an average carbon number of 8 to 18. Furthermore, in addition to the above, a surfactant commonly used as a fiber treatment agent, a higher fatty acid, an aliphatic polycarboxylic acid, an aromatic carboxylic acid, or a sulfur-containing aliphatic carboxylic acid and a higher alcohol or a polyhydric alcohol may be used. Smoothing agents such as esters or minerals, emulsification modifiers such as fatty acids and alcohols, etc. can be appropriately selected and used within a range that does not impair the object of the present invention. When applying the oil, it is necessary to apply the oil as uniformly as possible. By using the oil agent, the filaments are given tackiness during spinning and are appropriately bundled. Therefore, even during high-speed spinning, no wrapping around rotating rollers is observed, and problems such as scum accumulation and falling off on rollers and guides do not occur. However, even if an oil agent designed in this way is simply attached to a filament, it will become sticky due to even a small amount of humidity in the air, and the filament will still be tightly focused, resulting in random cuts during processing. I can't hope for that. Surprisingly, however, it was discovered that once the oil was applied to the filament and allowed to dry completely, the stickiness did not increase again even if the filament was left in high humidity, and it remained solid. It was done. As a result, the filament splitting property during processing is high and its cutting property is also good. An even bigger advantage is that
It has also been found that by applying a light impact such as rubbing to the filament, the solid oil agent that has gone through the bone dry state is easily broken and fragmented, further improving the filament's splitting properties.

Next, the number of thread entanglements caused by the air nozzle is 10 threads/m or less. If the number of entanglements is greater than this, even if the oil agent is applied under the above conditions, stress will concentrate on the intertwined portions of the threads and they will be cut all at once. Furthermore, it is preferable that the degree of entanglement be as stable as possible, and the air nozzle should be installed at a location where tension fluctuations are as small as possible. In this way, by satisfying the conditions of the oil agent and the number of thread entanglements in a well-balanced manner, the cohesiveness between filaments is reduced, and more random cutting can be expected.

[0036] Based on this idea, preferred embodiments of the spun mixed yarn are as follows. I. dA/dB ≧2, dB <2, 3.3≧D
Consisting of filaments of different deniers with A/DB ≧0.3, the elongation difference between the filaments of different deniers is 20% or more, and the entire yarn contains a compound that has antistatic ability and is solid at room temperature. is 0.1 to 0.5% by weight as a spinning oil.
(OPU) attached and further provided with mild entanglement of 10 entanglements/m or less. In the embodiment I, the spun blend yarn has a fine denier filament having an average elongation of 35% or less.

The above-mentioned requirement of "35% or less" is a value set on the basis that it is originally assumed that the fine denier filament will be cut, so it is preferable that the elongation is lower.

[0038] Here, the above-mentioned number of entanglements, OPU, and elongation are in accordance with the following definitions.

Number of yarn entanglements A sample of yarn length 50 cm is floated in water at 50° C. for 30 seconds, and the number of entanglement points is read. This operation is repeated 5 times, and the average number is converted into the number of entanglements per 1 m.

Oil Adhesion Weight (OPU) The weight ratio of the oil component to the filament weight was determined according to a conventional method (refraction method).

[0041] Strength and elongation Tensilon (UTM-III) manufactured by Orientech Co., Ltd.
The measurement was carried out at room temperature using a sample length of 20 cm and a tensile rate of 100%/min.

Furthermore, in order to selectively cut fine denier filaments, it is necessary to keep the elongation of the former thick filaments considerably lower than that of thick denier filaments. However, in a typical combination of round cross-sections, the difference in elongation between thick and thin filaments is small, and in reality, it may be difficult to cut only the thin denier side. In this regard, lower elongation (acceleration of crystallization) can be achieved by forming a spinneret for fine denier filaments with an irregular cross-section, particularly a multilobal shape, and spinning fine denier filaments with increased surface area. In this case, preferred embodiments of the spun mixed fiber yarn are as follows. III. The ratio of the denier (DA) of the thick denier filament to the denier (DB) of the fine denier filament (DA/DB) is 2 to 7, the cross section of the fine denier filament is multi-lobed, and the elongation between filaments of different deniers is A spun mixed yarn with a difference of 20% or more.

Note that it is sufficient that the cross-sectional irregularity (R/r) of the fine denier filament is 2.5 or more. Here, R is the radius of a circle circumscribing the multilobe, and r is the radius of a circle inscribing the multilobe.

[0044] In addition, in spinning the spun mixed fiber yarn, 5
Ultra high speed spinning of 000m/min or more or 2500~5
The yarn spun at a high speed of less than 000 m/min is drawn and heat treated at a low magnification, so that the elongation difference between the thick denier filament and the fine denier filament is at least 20%, and the elongation of the fine denier filament is 30% or less. preferable.

[0045] As the yarn material in the present invention, polyester is preferably employed, with terephthalic acid as the main acid component and at least one glycol, particularly preferably selected from ethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, and tetramethylene glycol. The main glycol component is alkylene glycol, such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polyhexamethylene terephthalate, copolymers of these polyesters and isophthalates, and blends of these various polymers. Physical objects can be given. These polyesters may contain commonly used additives such as matting agents, stabilizers, and antistatic agents.

[0046]

Effects of the Invention According to the present invention, it has strong tension, elasticity, and resilience, as well as a soft and soft touch that is completely contradictory to these properties, and also has a very uniform span-like and symmetrical appearance and touch. Long and short composite yarns with unprecedented sensitivity are provided through a stable process.

[0047] The present invention will be explained in detail below with reference to Examples.

[0048]

[Example 1] The structural intrinsic viscosity of the spun blend yarn is 0.64
of polyethylene terephthalate (TiO2 as a matting agent)
(containing 0.3 wt%), the pore diameter was 0.18 mm,
80 round holes with a land length of 0.90 mm, while the hole diameter is 0.
．． It was discharged from the same nozzle having four round holes of 39 mm and land length of 2.16 mm. After the discharged filament is cooled by side-blown cooling air, it is mixed with oil agent X shown in Table 5.
, Y, and Z, passed through a swirl nozzle, and was stretched 1.33 times during spinning, heat-treated at 120° C., and wound at a speed of 4000 m/min. The wound yarn is composed of a filament group of 0.48 de x 80 filaments (elongation of 75%) and a filament group of 4.0 de x 4 filaments (elongation of 21%). In Table 5, X and Y are oils containing components that are solid at room temperature, and Z is a normal oil.

[0049]

[Table 5] Table 6 shows the OPU, number of entanglements, spinnability and random cutting properties of the spun blend yarn.

[0050]

[Table 6]

[0051]

[Example 2] No. 6 in Table 6 of Example 1. Three spun mixed fiber yarns of No. 5 were combined and supplied to the tension-cut no-twist spinning process shown in FIG. 2(c). At that time, the yarn is bent by the bending guide 8 between the supply roller 2 and the tension cutting roller 3, and stretched by 1.3 times while lightly pressing the planar contact guide 9, so that only the low elongation filament group thick denier long fibers that are cold-stretched through a take-up air nozzle 4 that has suction and swirling properties, and a conjugation nozzle 5 that has strong swirling properties;
The fibers were conjugated with the cut short denier fibers and wound up. The bending guide used here was a 2φ ceramic round bar with a bending angle of 140°. Also, the cutting length is 280
mm, tension cutting speed is 400 m/min, withdrawal nozzle pressure is 2 kg/cm2, conjugation nozzle pressure is 3 kg/cm2,
Conjugation overfeed (surface speed of tension cutting roller 3 - surface speed of take-up roller 6)/surface speed of tension cutting roller 3 x 100 (%) was set to 5%.

The obtained composite yarn has a form as shown in FIG. 1, in which short fibers B whose protruding ends are tapered and long fibers A are entangled (in detail, short fibers B are The short fibers B protruded as free ends from the sides of the long fibers while migrating with the long fibers A), and in addition, the short fibers B formed loops around the long fibers A with different extension amplitudes. These different overhang amplitudes form a multilayered structure and are evenly distributed in the length direction of the yarn, with the free end partially wrapped around the yarn and the short fibers surrounding the long fibers, giving it a very uniform appearance. Ta.

Furthermore, the average boiling water shrinkage rate of the long fibers is 17.
1% (R=4.5), that of short fiber B is 6% on average, the central part is 7.6%, and that of the tapered protruding end is 4.5% on average
% (R=3.5), and that of the other end is 5.8% on average (R=
2.0).

Next, Table 7 shows the physical properties of the obtained long and short composite yarn.

[0055]

[Table 7] From Table 7, dA/dB = 8.4 U・N1/2=87.5 DA / DB = 0.47 It turns out that.

Next, this composite yarn is twisted at 600 T/M to give a warp density of 84 threads/inch and a weft density of 72 threads/inch.
It was woven into a plain weave and subjected to a dyeing finishing process that included about 20% alkali reduction and calendering, and although there was a slight difference in dyeing between long fibers and short fibers, the dyeing was still good as a textile product. A well-balanced woven fabric with a good appearance was obtained, with almost no difference appearing on the surface, and almost no defects such as uneven yarn thickness or slub naps. In addition, it has a very soft texture (soft touch), and has appropriate tension, waist, and resilience, and is equivalent to or better than ultra-high-quality fabrics made from so-called high-grade ultra-long cotton. A woven fabric with high sensitivity was obtained. Surprisingly, despite the presence of a large number of fuzz on the surface of the fabric without the pilling treatment, and despite the use of a polymer with a normal He also scored 4th grade on the time test. The reason for this is not clear, but the thick denier and fine denier fibers are mixed at the raw yarn stage, and the yarn is bent during tension cutting to spread the yarn well while stretching, resulting in long fibers. Migration between fibers and short fibers is extremely good, and short fibers do not come out of the fabric structure.
This is presumed to be because the elongation of the fine denier filament decreases during tension cutting.

[0057]

[Comparative Example 1] The mixed fiber yarn obtained in Example 1 was prepared using a common filament drawing machine (a) as shown in Fig. 3 and a drawing false twisting machine (
b) Supply roller 2' and take-out roller 3
When stretching and stretch false twisting were carried out while stretching the yarn 1.3 times between there were. Furthermore, even if the hot roller of the drawing machine and the heater of the drawing false-twisting machine are not heated up, or the false-twisting spindle of the drawing false-twisting machine is removed and the false-twisting is not applied. Almost no improvement in tension cutting performance was observed.

[0058]

[Example 3] No. 6 in Table 6 of Example 1. The spun mixed fiber yarn of No. 1 was stretch cut under the same conditions as in Example 2. The obtained composite yarn naturally had the form shown in FIG. 1, but had a more uniform appearance than that of Example 2. Then, the short fibers B whose protruding ends are tapered and the long fibers A are entangled with each other (in detail, the short fibers B migrate with the long fibers A and protrude as free ends from the sides of the long fibers). , In addition, the short fibers B formed loops around the long fibers A with different overhang amplitudes. These different overhang amplitudes form a multilayered structure and are evenly distributed in the length direction of the yarn, with the free end partially wrapped around the yarn and the short fibers surrounding the long fibers, giving it a very uniform appearance. Ta.

Furthermore, the boiling water shrinkage rate of long fibers is 16.2%.
(R=4.3), that of short fiber B is 6.3% on average, the central part is 9.4%, and that of the tapered protruding end is 4.2% on average.
% (R=3.2), and that of the other end is 5.3 (R=1) on average.
．． 8).

Next, Table 8 shows the physical properties of the obtained long and short composite yarn.

[0061]

[Table 8] From Table 8, dA/dB = 8.4 U・N1/2 = 74.7 DA / DB = 0.47 It turns out that.

Next, this composite yarn is twisted at 600 T/M to give a warp density of 84 threads/inch and a weft density of 72 threads/inch.
When woven into a plain weave and subjected to a dyeing finishing process that includes about 20% alkali reduction and calendering, it was found that although there was a slight difference in dyeing between long fibers and short fibers, the dyeing did not change as a textile product. A woven fabric with a highly uniform appearance was obtained, with no differences appearing on the surface and no defects such as uneven yarn thickness or slub naps. In addition, it has a very soft texture (soft touch), and has appropriate tension, waist, and resilience, and is equivalent to or better than ultra-high-quality fabrics made from so-called high-grade ultra-long cotton. A woven fabric with high sensitivity was obtained. Surprisingly, even though there is a lot of fluff on the surface of the fabric without the fleece treatment,
In addition, even though a polymer with a normal η was used, the anti-pilling property showed grade 4.5 even in a 10-hour test using the ICI method. The reason for this is not clear, but even though thick and fine deniers are mixed at the yarn stage, the random tension cutting properties are improved, and the yarn is bent during tension cutting to improve the yarn. It is presumed that since the fibers are stretched and cut while being opened, the migration of long fibers and short fibers is extremely good and the short fibers do not come out from the fabric structure.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a side view of a long and short composite yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2: (a), (b), and (c) are various process diagrams for producing long and short composite yarns; (d) is a side view showing the manner in which the spun mixed fiber yarn is bent during tension cutting; e) is a perspective view showing a mode in which a planar guide is pressed against the side surface of the spun mixed fiber yarn during stretch cutting.

FIG. 3(a) is a schematic diagram showing a stretching process, and FIG. 3(b) is a schematic diagram showing a false twisting process.

[Explanation of symbols] A Long fiber B Short fiber b1 Free end b2 Loop 1 Yarn 2 (2') Supply roller 3 Tension cut roller 4 Take-up nozzle 5 Air entanglement nozzle 6
Take-up roller 7 (7') Take-up device 8 Bending guide 9 Non-contact shooter 10
Contact type planar guide 11 Heater

Claims (12)

[Claims] Claim 1: Long fibers (A) that are both non-crimped and uniformly cold drawn; and short fibers (B) that have a smaller boiling water shrinkage rate than the long fibers and that are tapered at at least one end. ) are entangled with each other, and the short fibers (B) are present around the long fibers (A) forming loops with different extension amplitudes. 2. The long and short composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the boiling water shrinkage rate varies along the longitudinal direction of the short fibers, and the average boiling water shrinkage rate is 16% or less. [Claim 3] The short fibers i) migrate between non-crimped continuous filaments in the cross-sectional direction of the composite yarn and become entangled with the continuous filaments, and ii) are present in the longitudinal direction of the composite yarn. forming a multilayer structure in which the free ends protrude from the side surface of the continuous filament yarn and are dispersed with different overhang amplitudes;
The long and short composite yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composite yarn has latent and random boiling water shrinkage ability in the cross section and longitudinal direction, and is also provided with covering performance of the long fibers A. 4. The long and short composite yarn according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the composite yarn as a whole exhibits a sense of symmetry as specified by the following U% formula. U・N1/2 ≦104 [U: actually measured U percentage (%), N: number of constituent fibers in arbitrary cross section of composite yarn (number)], 5. The long and short composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein both the long fibers (A) and the short fibers (B) are polyester fibers. [Claim 6] Claims 1 and 2 having a high-quality texture of extra-long cotton that satisfies the following requirements (i) to (iii) at the same time:
The long and short composite yarn according to , 3, 4 or 5. (i) 6≧dA≧3 [dA; single fiber denier of long fiber A] (ii) dB
<0.8 (iii) 1.5≧DA/DB ≧0.25[DA
;Total denier of long fiber A, DB ;Total denier of short fiber B] [Claim 7] High elongation filaments are obtained by passing a spun mixed yarn consisting of thick denier, high elongation filaments and thin denier, low elongation filaments to a tension cutting process at a tension cutting ratio of at most 2 times or less. When tension-cutting only low-elongation filaments by tension-cutting in an elongation region intermediate between the filament and the low-elongation filament, the tension-cutting elongation magnification is set at a cutting elongation equal to or higher than the primary yield point of the high-elongation filament. 80% or less, and a method for producing a long and short composite yarn, characterized by pressing a planar guide with a smooth surface against at least a part of the side surface of the mixed fiber yarn during tension cutting. [Claim 8]Claim 7 wherein the cut length is 50 cm or less.
The method for manufacturing the long and short composite yarn described above. 9. The method for producing a long and short composite yarn according to claim 7 or 8, wherein the spun blend yarn being stretched is bent in the tension cutting region to impart a rubbing action. 10. Claim 9, wherein the spun mixed fiber yarn is bent at a bending angle of 160° or less by a guide having a radius of curvature of 10 or less.
The method for manufacturing the long and short composite yarn described above. 11. A claim in which the spun mixed fiber yarn has a compound having antistatic ability and solid at room temperature attached as a spinning oil agent, and is further provided with mild entanglement of 10 entanglements/m or less. 7. The method for producing a long and short composite yarn according to 7. 12. The method for producing a long and short composite processed yarn according to claim 7 or 9, wherein the fine denier filaments in the spun mixed yarn have a multilobal cross section.