JPH04228642A - Production of bulky silk yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide the title nonyellowing silk yarn of high wrinkleproofness. CONSTITUTION:Raw silk is scoured, put to twisting at a level of 700-3300T/M, subjected to heat set at 2.0-3.5atm using hot water at 100-130 deg.C, and then untwisted to an extent similar to said twisting level, thus accomplishing bulkiness-imparting processing.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

0001

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing bulky silk yarn that is bulky and highly wrinkle resistant.

0002

[Prior art] Raw silk is completely refined to completely remove sericin, collagen protein derivatives are adsorbed thereto, twisted at 2000 to 2800 T/M in the S or Z direction, saturated with moisture, and the temperature 130-140°C, pressure 3-3.
A method for producing crimped silk yarn, which is set under conditions of 5 atm for 10 to 20 minutes, and then untwisted in the opposite direction to the previously twisted direction to form a weave and impart crimpability on average with saturated steam. was designated as a special public official in 1982.
This method is proposed in Japanese Patent No. -39934.

0003

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] In the method for producing crimped silk thread, in order to adsorb collagen protein derivatives to the raw silk, the silk fabric itself woven using the silk thread has a slimy feel, which actually makes it less comfortable to wear. In addition, the silk thread itself yellowed due to the setting by moist heat steam, and the manufacturing process was complicated.

[0004] An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a bulky silk thread that overcomes the above-mentioned drawbacks, has excellent wrinkle resistance, and does not yellow.

[0005]

[Means for Solving the Problem] In the present invention, after refining raw silk, the raw silk is twisted at 700 to 3300 T/M, and then twisted at 2.0 to 3.5 atm and at 100 to 130 T/M.
The fabric is characterized in that heat setting is performed using hot water at 0.degree.

[0006]

[Example] An example of a preferred manufacturing method according to the present invention will be described. In the present invention, the raw silk is first refined to remove the sericin that coats the raw silk, but the refining method may be any conventional method, preferably enzymatic refining using a known protease. It is desirable to carry out the process at a suitable temperature for an appropriate period of time. This enzymatic refining prevents the strength of raw silk from decreasing, does not impair its luster, and does not give the fabric a slimy feel after weaving.

Next, the raw silk after the above refining is treated with S or Z.
Twisting is applied at 700 to 3300 T/M in the direction of
Heat set using 30°C hot water. Furthermore, this heat-set raw silk is untwisted in a direction opposite to the twisting direction (Z or S direction) to the same extent as the number of twists. At this time, the number of untwists may be 50 to 300 T/M more or less than the number of twists, that is, over-untwisting may be performed, or if necessary, after untwisting as described above, the untwisting direction may be changed. Additional twisting of 50 to 300 T/M may be applied in the opposite direction. In addition, in the case of the above-mentioned over-untwisting or additional twisting after over-untwisting, the number of twists and the number of untwists are both 700 to 3.
It is necessary to be in the range of 300T/M. Therefore, the present invention limits the number of twists to 700 to 3,300 T/M because if it is less than 700 T/M, the volume of the raw silk will be lost and the texture will be poor, whereas if it exceeds 3,300 T/M, the raw silk will break. This is because the above numerical value range is set because the material becomes harder or harder.

[0008] Furthermore, the reason why the number of untwists is set to be approximately the same as the number of twists is to obtain an excellent bulky product without impairing the feel of the silk thread. In the present invention, as mentioned above, the twisting time is 100% between the twisting and untwisting steps.
100 was heat-set using hot water at ~130°C.
If it is less than 130°C, the setting effect will not appear, and if it exceeds 130°C, the silk thread will be damaged.In particular, since the present invention uses hot water, the yellowing of the silk thread is prevented, so the drawbacks of conventional moist heat setting are eliminated. Ru.

[0009] By weaving a silk fabric using the above-mentioned bulky yarn and subjecting it to an appropriate dyeing process, a fabric with high bulkiness can be obtained. In addition, by knitting the above-mentioned bulky textured yarn with an appropriate stockinette knitting machine, dyeing the obtained stockinette fabric or treating it in hot water, and then unraveling the knitting yarn of the same fabric, it is possible to create a knitted fabric with high bulkiness. Therefore, silk thread can be obtained.

More specific embodiments of the present invention will be described below. First, 4 out of 27 pieces of raw silk were subjected to enzymatic refining using a protease at 60°C for 4 hours, and then 2500
After twisting in the T/M S twist direction, the raw silk wound around a perforated cylinder was immersed in hot water at 2.5 atm and 120°C for 60 minutes using a high-pressure cooker. Then, the heat-set raw silk was untwisted in the Z direction at 2600 T/M in the opposite direction to the twisting direction, resulting in a bulky silk thread with high elasticity.

[0011] As a result of weaving this bulky silk yarn in the warp and weft directions, weaving it into a fabric, and then subjecting it to an appropriate dyeing process, the surface of the fabric is smooth and does not feel slimy, and furthermore, the fabric shrinks. It was possible to obtain a woven fabric that was comfortable to wear, without causing any decrease in the strength of the silk thread, and without loss of luster.

0012

Effects of the Invention The present invention involves refining raw silk, preferably enzymatic refining using proteolytic enzymes, subjecting the same raw silk to a specific number of twists, and then heat setting with hot water at 100 to 130°C. Furthermore, since untwisting is performed in the opposite direction to the twisting direction to the same extent as the number of twists, it is different from the conventional Japanese Patent Publication No. 58-3.
Although the manufacturing process was simplified compared to the method of Publication No. 9934, a bulky silk yarn with high bulkiness and wrinkle resistance could be manufactured. In particular, in the present invention, the heat setting between the twisting and untwisting steps is carried out using hot water at a specific temperature, which ensures prevention of yellowing of the silk yarn and exhibits an excellent effect in improving quality.

[0013] When a fabric is woven using the bulky silk yarn produced according to the present invention and further subjected to an appropriate dyeing process, the surface of the fabric does not have a slimy feel, and furthermore, the fabric does not shrink. It was possible to obtain a woven fabric that was comfortable to wear, without causing any decrease in the strength of the silk thread, and without losing its luster.

Claims (2)

[Claims] [Claim 1] After refining the raw silk, the raw silk has 70%
Twisting is performed at 0 to 3300 T/M, followed by twisting at 2.0 to 3.
Heat setting was performed using hot water of 100 to 130° C. at 5 atmospheres, and untwisting was performed in a direction opposite to the twisting direction to the same extent as the number of twists to obtain bulk processing. A method for producing bulky silk yarn characterized by the following. 2. The method for producing bulky silk yarn according to claim 1, wherein the raw silk is subjected to enzymatic refining using a proteolytic enzyme.