JPH04209848A - Production of cloth of hard twisted yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a cloth of hard twisted yarn, composed of polyester filament and having resiliency, flexibility and hand of pure silk by alternately arranging conjugate yarn of normal yarn and heat-extensible yarn and respective hard twisted yarn of S-and Z-twist in at least either of warp and weft yarns at an interval of a prescribed number of yarns. CONSTITUTION:Conjugate yarn is formed by subjecting polyester multifilament yarn having normal heat shrinkability and polyester multifilament yarn having heat extensibility to doubling or combining and then low twisting or interlacing treatment. On the other hand, the normal type polyester multifilament yarn is used to prepare hard twisted yarn of S- and Z-twist and one to several yarns of the total three kinds of the aforementioned conjugate yarn and hard twisted yarn of S- and Z-twist are alternately arranged in at least either of the warp and weft yarns to weave a cloth of the hard twisted yarn. The resultant cloth is then subjected to creping treatment or other heat treatment to extend the above-mentioned heat-extensible filament and form bulginess.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] (Industrial Application Field) This invention relates to a method for producing a highly twisted yarn fabric having the elasticity and flexibility of real silk using polyester fibers. .

(Prior art) As a method for producing a strongly twisted yarn fabric using multifilament yarns of polyester fibers, one S-twisted strongly twisted yarn and one Z-twisted strongly twisted yarn of the above-mentioned multifilament yarns are alternately arranged in at least one of the warp and weft. Alternatively, two strands are arranged alternately and woven into a flat weave, subjected to relaxation treatment in hot water to develop grain, and then subjected to alkali weight loss treatment with a weight loss rate of 20 to 30% to soften the texture. Are known.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) However, in the past, only highly twisted yarns were arranged in the warp or weft yarns, which tended to result in a rough and hard texture, and also resulted in a soft texture. In order to achieve this, the alkali weight loss rate was set at a high level of 20 to 30%, so the warp and weft yarns that make up the fabric became thinner, making the fabric looser and causing looseness and curling. There was a problem of poor onset.

This invention aims to produce a highly twisted yarn fabric that is excellent in both elasticity and flexibility using polyester fibers.

(Means for Solving the Problems) A method for producing a strongly twisted yarn fabric according to the present invention is a method for producing a strongly twisted yarn fabric made of polyester multifilament yarn, in which at least one of the warp and weft is made of ordinary polyester multifilament. S-twist strong twist yarn,
It is characterized in that it is woven by alternately arranging one to several types of yarns: a Z-twisted high-twist yarn and a composite yarn of a normal polyester multifilament yarn and a heat-extensible polyester multifilament yarn.

The heat extensible polyester multifilament yarn used in this invention is a stretched polyester multifilament yarn with an overfeed rate of 20 to 70% and a temperature of 160%.
Manufactured by heat treatment at ~240°C. Then, the obtained heat-extensible multifilament yarn is combined with a polyester multifilament yarn produced by a conventional method by heating or mixing with gold thread or by intertwining the yarn instead of heating. The content of heat extensible polyester filaments in this composite yarn is 15 to 85% by weight.
Or preferable. The number of twists during heating is 200 to 700 times/
A soft twist of m is preferable.

On the other hand, S-twist high-twist yarn and Z-twist high-twist yarn are made by adding S to normal polyester multifilament yarn using an Italian twisting machine.
Strong twist in direction or Z direction, then moist heat 70~
90°C for 15-90 minutes or dry heat at 80-150°
It is produced by applying a twist set at C for 50 minutes. In addition, the number of strong twists in the S direction and Z direction is 15000/7D to 30000/v'D times/when the thickness of the polyester multifilament yarn is D denier.
m is preferable.

Conventional strongly twisted yarn fabrics are woven by alternately arranging S-twisted yarns and Z-twisted strongly twisted yarns in at least one of the warp and weft, or alternatively, in the present invention, these The above composite yarn is interposed between the twisted yarn and the Z-twisted strongly twisted yarn. The arrangement method can be arbitrarily selected. For example, when S-twist strongly twisted yarn is represented by S, Z-twisted highly twisted yarn is represented by Z, and composite yarn is represented by F, SZF, 5FZF.
, 5ZFF, 5SFZZF, 5FSFZFZF, 5SF
They can be arranged in an order such as FZZFF.

In addition, when using S-twist strongly twisted yarn and Z-twisted strongly twisted yarn in both the warp and weft, the above-mentioned composite yarn can be mixed in only one of the warp and weft.

(Function) The fabric woven by the above method is finished by washing, kneading, extrusion, heat setting, weight reduction processing, and dyeing processing according to the conventional method, and becomes grained by relaxing treatment in hot water. . The size (height, fineness) of these grains is basically determined by the design of the fabric, but it is important to determine how much of the untwisting force latent in the fabric is expressed depending on the washer conditions. In the fabric after weaving, composite yarns of normal polyester multifilament yarns and heat-stretchable polyester multifilament yarns are mixed in the arrangement of the S-twist and Z-twist high-twist yarns. When ordinary polyester filaments are heat-shrinked by the relaxation process, the heat-extensible polyester filaments in the composite yarn stretch and form a bulge on the surface of the fabric, which gives it a silk-like soft and warm feel and gives it elasticity. enhance Therefore, the weight loss rate during weight loss processing can be kept low to 5 to 15%, which is enough to reduce the interfiber pressure at the intersection of the warp and weft.

By suppressing the weight loss rate to a lower level than in the past, it is possible to prevent the warp and weft from becoming too loose due to excessive thinning.

(Example) Polyester multifilament yarn with normal heat shrinkability (30 denier/18 filament, hot water shrinkage rate 1
Polyester multifilament yarn (30%) with heat shrinkage rate (18% in dry heat at 160°C) and heat extensibility (30%
Denier/18 filament, hot water shrinkage rate -1%, heat shrinkage rate at 160°C dry heat -6%), and 30
Composite yarn (60 denier/36
filament) was manufactured. In addition, ordinary polyester multifilament yarn (50 denier/48 filament, hot water shrinkage rate 6%, heat shrinkage rate at 160°C dry heat 9%)
) was fed into an Italian twisting machine, subjected to strong twisting of 2700 times/m under a twisting tension of 10 g, and then heated to 85°C for 4 hours.
Heat-setting was performed for 0 minutes to produce S-twist, highly twisted yarn and Z-twist, highly twisted yarn.

The above-mentioned S-twisted high-twisted yarn, Z-twisted high-twisted yarn, and composite yarn F are arranged in the order of 5FSFZFZF as warp threads, and this is reeded (
A plain woven fabric was woven by passing two yarns through each bird (density = 64 birds/whale size) and alternately inserting two yarns each of the above S-twist and Z-twist as weft yarns. Next, relaxation treatment and alkali weight loss treatment (weight loss rate 13
%) and finishing including dyeing resulted in a georgette with a genuine silk texture that was superior in elasticity and flexible compared to conventional products.

(Effects of the Invention) This invention provides that when producing a strongly twisted yarn fabric using polyester multifilament yarns, ordinary polyester multifilament yarns and heat-stretchable polyester are used in the arrangement of S-twisted strongly twisted yarns and Z-twisted strongly twisted yarns. Since it is a method of mixing composite yarns with multifilament yarns, by applying graining treatment and other heat treatments after weaving, the heat-extensible polyester filaments are stretched to form a bulge, which is an unprecedented and excellent method. Gives elasticity and a soft, warm feel. Therefore, the weight loss rate of the normally performed alkaline weight loss process can be kept lower than before, and the "thinness" of the warp and weft can be reduced, and there is no occurrence of sagging.

Patent applicant: Toyobo Co., Ltd. Agent: Patent Attorney Yoshi 1) Tsukasa Ryo

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] [1] A method for producing a highly twisted yarn fabric made of polyester multifilament yarn, in which at least one of the warp and weft is S-twisted strongly twisted yarn, Z-twisted strongly twisted yarn and ordinary polyester multifilament yarn made of ordinary polyester multifilament yarn. A total of 3 types of yarns, which are composite yarns of polyester multifilament yarn and heat extensible polyester multifilament yarn, are combined into 1 yarn.
~A method for producing a highly twisted yarn fabric characterized by weaving several yarns arranged alternately.