JPH0345126B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Industrial Field of Application] The present invention relates to a special slab-like bulky yarn having a core-sheath structure, and its purpose is to use a fluid treatment method to create a silk texture and a silk texture. An object of the present invention is to provide a bulky yarn exhibiting a natural slab effect.

[Prior art] A method for obtaining slub yarn by subjecting it to fluid treatment using two or more multifilament and/or spun yarns has already been disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-30023 (Manufacturing of slub yarn with relatively short slabs using quick return motion). method), and furthermore in Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-31941 (method for manufacturing relatively long slab yarns by intermittently changing the feed speed). These methods can produce yarns with a slub effect, but as recent trends in fashion have become more natural-oriented, that is, towards both surface changes and color mixes, it is time to reconsider these slub yarn manufacturing methods. It is no exaggeration to say that it was a vine.

[Objective of the Invention] In view of the above circumstances, the object of the present invention is to create an ideal slub yarn for the future, which does not rely solely on the surface effect due to uneven thickness changes, but which has excellent texture, especially silk texture. To provide a slub yarn which exhibits the same characteristics and whose variation in thickness matches as much as possible to a natural feel.

[Structure and operation of the invention] As a result of intensive research to achieve the above object, the present inventors succeeded in obtaining a slab-like yarn with unprecedented commercial value.

According to the present invention, the yarn consists of a core and at least two types of flat yarns constituting a sheath that are not simply wrapped around the core but intertwined in a mixed and intertwined state, and the sheath is formed on the yarn surface. A mixed fiber yarn created by fluid bulk processing that has a large number of loops, tangles and rings formed by filaments, wherein the loops, tangles and rings locally and intermittently change their size along the length of the mixed fiber yarn. In addition, there is a difference D between the fineness D (denier) of the single fibers of the yarn constituting the core and the fineness d (denier) of the single fibers of the yarn constituting the sheath. A special slab-like bulky yarn having the relationships of ≦3 and 0.01≦d<D is provided. Here, a flat yarn is a yarn consisting of non-crimped filaments, that is, filaments that have no latent crimp ability or are not crimped (so-called,
(raw silk).

Furthermore, regarding this, the new slub yarn needs to have an excellent texture, especially since the slub yarn is aimed at the original yarn texture, so it needs to have a texture that feels like silk. .
To achieve this, it is essential to have silk's characteristics of elegant luster, appropriate tension, supple texture, and a touch that gives the appropriate sense of span.

Also, when creating a slab shape, it is not enough to simply change the thickness as in the conventional case, but if you are aiming for a pongee style, one thing is to shorten the slab length as much as possible, or vice versa. It is appropriate to aim for long so-called silk yarns. However, the basic goal is to achieve a texture similar to silk, and this remains the primary necessity no matter how close the slab form is to the ideal one.

In view of the above points, as a result of extensive research in a wide range of recent synthetic, artificial, and semi-synthetic fiber yarn groups, we have found that two or more types of flat yarns constituting the core and sheath. It has been found that it is effective to hold a part of the yarn constituting the sheath part and form it into a slab shape. In this case, the methods listed at the beginning are applicable. Furthermore, it has been found that selection of the single yarn fineness D (denier) for the core yarn constituting the core portion and the single yarn fineness d (denier) of the yarn constituting the sheath portion is extremely important. That is, use a yarn in the range of D≦3, whereas the single yarn fineness as a sheath yarn is
Select one in the range of 0.01D≦d<D. The fineness of each yarn may be appropriately selected depending on the desired fineness. By making such a selection, the relatively thick core yarn provides appropriate tension and stiffness, and as for the sheath yarn, it is preferable to use a relatively fine yarn with a fineness of 1 denier or less, which is unique to silk. The supple texture and tangles or loops or rings formed by fluid treatment provide appropriate span touchability. Incidentally, such tangles, loops or rings can be obtained by adjusting the excess supply rate defined by the delivery roller speed, the core yarn supply roller speed, and the sheath yarn supply roller speed when processing with the fluid treatment nozzle. . A preferable excess supply rate is the excess supply rate Fc for the core yarn [Fc={(Vc-V)/V}×100%, where V:
Delivery roller speed, Vc: core yarn supply roller speed] and excess supply rate for sheath yarn Fe [Fe={(Ve-V)/V}×100%, where V: delivery roller speed, Ve: sheath yarn supply Roller speed] between 0≦Fc≦6%, and further 0≦Fe−Fc≦20
%. In particular, the excess supply rate for the sheath yarn is the supply rate for the gland section, and the excess supply rate for the slab section can be arbitrarily selected in consideration of the slab effect to be obtained.

One embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. Fig. 1 is a process diagram for obtaining short slab-like bulky yarn based on the method described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-30023. A core yarn, 1' is a sheath yarn, 2 and 2' are supply roller systems for each yarn,
As mentioned above, the excess supply rate Fc by the core yarn supply roller 2 is preferably 0≦Fc≦6%, and the excess supply rate Fe of the 2′ sheath yarn supply roller is 0≦Fe−Fc in relation to Fc. A range of ≦20% is preferred. Reference numeral 5 denotes a fluid treatment nozzle in which the sheath yarn 1' is enclosed around the core yarn 1 so as to form a loop, ring, or tangle. At this time, it is preferable that the core yarn 1 is subjected to a water soaking treatment using a water soaking device 3 before being introduced into the treatment nozzle 5. Reference numeral 4 denotes a hook that is set to perform a quick return motion by means of a rotary cam attached to each weight,
At the moment of this quick return of the hook, the sheath yarn is instantaneously supplied in excess and a section exhibiting a so-called slab state can be obtained. The movement of the cam is controlled by a complicated pattern control mechanism, and is set so as not to cause periodic slabs. 6 is a delivery roller, and 7 is a winding device.

FIG. 2 is a process diagram for providing a relatively long slab shape based on the method described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-31941, in which the sheath yarn supply roller system 2' supplies By increasing the speed by a certain amount periodically and intermittently, the excess supply rate of the sheath yarn 1' is changed by that amount, and the tangles, loops, and rings formed are increased accordingly, resulting in a so-called slab-like structure. Gives thickness unevenness. In this case, by setting the amount of speed increase in advance, the size of the slab to be formed can be controlled. As disclosed in the above-mentioned patent publications, the frequency of occurrence of slabs, the slab length, and the thickness of the slabs can be set in advance by the device, whether the slabs are short slabs or long slabs.

FIGS. 3 and 4 show the relationship between the single yarn fineness of the yarns used and the selection range of an appropriate excess supply rate between the core yarn and the sheath yarn, which are the main features of the present invention. In Figure 3, D (denier) on the horizontal axis represents the single yarn fineness of the core yarn.
The vertical axis shows the single yarn fineness d (denier) of the sheath yarn,
The area in parentheses is within the appropriate range, while in the area in parentheses the single yarn fineness of the sheath yarn is too thick to provide the supple touch and mild texture of silk, and the area in parentheses is The single yarn fineness of the core yarn is too thick, making the texture stiff in any case. In Figure 4, the horizontal axis shows the excess supply rate (Fc) and (Fe-Fc)% of the core yarn.
It shows. The area in parentheses is the area adopted in the present invention, and the area in parentheses is where the core yarn supply rate (Fc) is too high and the yarn lacks stability, causing problems in weavability and other handling, and the overall This is an area that is not suitable for the appropriate spun-like and bulky properties of silk, as it has a large amount of entanglements, loops, and rings. Furthermore, the region () has too high a (Fe-Fc)% and is therefore not suitable for silk-like bulkiness or span-like properties.

Figures 5a and 5b are side views of the yarn form obtained by the present invention, where a is the short slab-like bulky yarn obtained in the process shown in Figure 1, and b is the bulky yarn obtained in the process shown in Figure 2. A model diagram of a long slab-like bulky yarn is shown.

Regarding the selection of the materials for the yarns used for the core and sheath yarns in the present invention, flat yarns of synthetic fibers are used for the core yarns, particularly from the viewpoint of strength. In this case, boiling water shrinkage rate is 10% for core yarn.
By using the above-mentioned unheat-treated polyester drawn yarn, it is possible to improve the texture by sufficiently bulking up when dyeing and finishing woven or knitted fabrics, and the same effect can be obtained when the birefringence index (△n) is 0.02≦△n≦0.09. It can also be obtained by using an undrawn polyester yarn having a range of . Furthermore, as an effect from the opposite side, by using highly heat-treated yarn with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 5% or less for part or all of the sheath, the width of the core can be reduced during the dyeing and finishing stage of woven and knitted fabrics. The width of the sheath part is smaller than that of a bulge, and a more preferable texture effect can also be provided in the form of a bulge-up.

In addition, in order to express the slab effect in a more natural sense, the method shown in Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-30023 is used to create slabs that are as short as possible, for example, slabs with a thickness change part of 30 cm or less in length, with less per meter. Tomo 0.2
When present, it becomes a slab-like bulky yarn with a silkier feel. In order to obtain such a short slab, a cam mechanism for each spindle is required for the quick return mechanism, rather than a multi-spindle system at the same time. In addition, on the contrary,
If a relatively long slab is obtained in accordance with the method disclosed in Publication No. 31941, it will become a slab-like bulky yarn with a natural feel, which is the opposite of a spun silk yarn. In this case, when the slab length is at least 40 cm and the number of slabs is 0.2 or less per m,
Gives a more natural feel.

[Effect of the invention] According to the present invention, from two types of flat yarns,
A slub yarn that has a natural slub feel as well as silk texture, that is, gloss, firmness, supple texture, and spun touch, can be easily provided by fluid processing with high-speed processability.

[Example] Example 1 A flat yarn of unheated drawn polyester yarn (30de/12fil) with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 15% was used as the core yarn, and a flat yarn of triangular cross-section polyester yarn (50de/48fil) was used as the sheath yarn. In the process shown in Figure 1, the delivery speed was set to 100 m/min, and the excessive supply rate of core yarn was Fc4% and (Fe-Fc)%.
was set at 14%, the fast return motion cycle was set to 88 times/min on average, and processing was performed at a compressed air pressure of 4.5 Kg/cm ² G of the compressed air treatment nozzle. As a result, a short slab-like bulky yarn having a number of slabs of 0.8 as shown in FIG. 5a could be obtained.
The fabric obtained using the yarn had an extremely silk feel (adequate tension, elasticity, suppleness, spun touch, and elegant luster).

Example 2 A flat yarn of unheated drawn polyester yarn (50 de/24 fil) with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 15% was used as the core yarn, a flat yarn of triangular cross section yarn of polyester drawn yarn (100 de/72 fil) was used as the sheath yarn, and the delivery speed was 100 m. Excess supply rate of core yarn Fc at /min
was set at 2% and (Fe-Fc) at 2%, and processed in the process shown in Fig. 2. At this time, the speed increase of the sheath yarn supply roller was set to 36%, and the compressed air treatment was performed at a compressed air pressure of 4.5 Kg/cm ² G of the compressed air treatment nozzle. As a result, it was possible to obtain a long slab-like bulky yarn as shown in FIG. 5b, in which the slab length was 45 cm or more and the frequency of occurrence of slabs was at most 0.07 per m. The fabric obtained using the yarn is Example-1
Similarly, it had an appearance and texture extremely similar to natural silk, that is, spun silk.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Fig. 1 is a schematic process diagram mainly for obtaining short slabs, Fig. 2 is a schematic process diagram for obtaining long slabs, and Fig. 3 is a yarn used for the core yarn and sheath yarn adopted in the present invention. A graph showing the relationship between the single yarn fineness of the yarn, FIG. 4 is a graph showing the relationship between the excess supply rate Fc for the core yarn and the excess supply rate Fe for the sheath yarn applied in this case, and FIGS. b is a side view of a short slab-like yarn and a long slab-like yarn obtained by the present invention, respectively. 1... For core thread, 1'... For sheath thread, 2... Supply roller for core thread, 2'... Supply roller for sheath thread, 3
... Watering device for core yarn (if necessary), 4...
Quick return movement hook, 5...Fluid processing nozzle,
6... Delivery roller, 7... Winding device.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 Consists of a core and at least two types of flat yarns constituting a sheath that are not simply wrapped around the core but intertwined in a mixed and intertwined state, and the yarn surface has a large number of loops formed by the filaments that make up the sheath. , a tangle and a ring formed by fluid bulking processing, the loops, tangles and rings locally and intermittently change their size along the length of the mixed yarn to improve the appearance. In addition, the fineness D (denier) of the single fibers of the yarn forming the core and the fineness d (denier) of the single fibers of the yarn forming the sheath.
A special slab-like bulky yarn having the relationships D≦3 and 0.01≦d<D.