JPH03130427A - Polyester-based blended yarn giving improved drape feeling - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject non-bulky yarn giving fine bulging and improved drape feeling, etc., in treating with boiling water in a state of cloth by blending and interlacing drawn yarn and partially oriented yarn respectively having specific shrinkage in boiling water in a specific ratio. CONSTITUTION:The aimed yarn is composed of (A) polyester drawn yarn having >=7% shrinkage in boiling water and (B) heat-set polyester partially oriented yarn having <=3% shrinkage in boiling water. Difference of shrinkage in boiling water between the yarn A and the yarn B is 5-40%. Said two species of yarn are mutually blended and interlaced so as weight ratio of the yarn A:B to be 1.5:(1-1.3) to afford the objective yarn having smooth yarn surface without loop of component single fiber on the surface of the yarn. Said yarn is preferably obtained by performing blending and interlacing treatment with generating no yarn length discrepancy between the yarn A and the yarn B, and keeping overfeeding of the yarn A and the yarn B below 3%.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention (Technical Field to which the Invention Pertains) The present invention relates to a polyester-based fabric that, when made into a fabric, exhibits not only high quality, fullness, and soft touch, but also particularly improved drapability. Regarding mixed yarn.

(Prior technology) As-spun (
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 53-24454 discloses that an intermediately oriented polyester fiber (with a high shrinkage rate in boiling water) is arranged in the sheath part to form a composite bulky yarn with a two-layer structure at the yarn stage to obtain a crisp texture.
Disclosed in the issue.

In this case, both yarns are fed at the same feed rate and subjected to the interlacing process, but the reason why the latter intermediately oriented yarn is arranged in the sheath is because the elongation modulus is higher than that of the former drawn yarn. Due to extremely low

On the other hand, in a bulky yarn with a similar two-layer structure, the intermediately oriented yarn is replaced by a high-speed spun yarn (with a birefringence of 0°08 to 0.08°).
13) is used for the sheath yarn, and the constituent monofilaments actively impart stable loops and slack to obtain a soft texture and span-like touch, as disclosed in Japanese Utility Model Application Publication No. 60-93781. has been done.

By the way, all of the above-mentioned composite bulky yarns express bulkiness, a crisp feel, or a spun touch due to loops by assigning roles as a core yarn and a sheath yarn. It does not have the drapability, subtle bulge, or soft feel that is required.

(Object of the invention) The object of the present invention is to, unlike the above-mentioned bulky two-layer yarn,
To provide a polyester blend yarn that exhibits a non-bulky appearance at the yarn stage, but when treated with pure water in a fabric state, exhibits subtle swelling, soft feel, and improved drape properties. There is a particular thing.

(Structure of the Invention) The present inventors have developed a bulky yarn with loops or slacks using conventional yarn usage and yarn structure, that is, drawn yarn of polyester fiber and intermediately oriented yarn of as-spun polyester fiber. Instead of the layered yarn, the intermediate oriented yarn is heat-treated, and the drawn yarn and the heat-treated intermediate oriented yarn have substantially the same yarn length difference as the yarn structure,
It has been found that the purpose can be achieved when the yarn is blended and entangled without forming loops or sags and has a smooth surface condition.

Thus, according to the present invention, the drawn yarn (A) of polyester fiber and the intermediately oriented yarn (B) of heat-set polyester fiber are mixed and entangled with each other, and the yarn surface has constituent single fibers. There are no loops, a smooth yarn surface, and the following (1) to (
There is provided a substantially non-bulky polyester blend yarn that exhibits improved drape texture and is characterized by simultaneously satisfying the requirements of 4).

[Requirements] Requirement ■ The weight ratio of A:B is in the range of 1.5:1 to 1:3.

Requirement ■　The pure water shrinkage rate of B is 3% or less.

Requirements ■ Pure water shrinkage rate of A is 7% or more.

Requirements ■ The relationship between pure water shrinkage rates of A and B is 5 (%) ≦ A
-B≦40(%) must be satisfied.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

FIG. 1 is a side view of the polyester blend yarn of the present invention.
1 is a drawn polyester fiber yarn, and 2 is a heat-treated intermediately oriented polyester fiber yarn, with no loops or slack formed on the yarn surface (therefore, both yarns have substantially the same yarn foot difference). ) They are mixed and intertwined with each other and have a smooth, non-bulky appearance similar to normal raw silk (flat yarn).

Note that 3 is an intertwining point.

Here, requirement (2) is necessary to maintain the quality of the mixed fiber yarn, and if it deviates from this range, the mixed fiber yarn will become irritated. Requirement (2) relates to drapability after pure water treatment, and if this value exceeds 3%, drapeability will not be sufficiently developed. Requirement ■ is softer Bl'j! This is the shrinkage rate necessary to scatter the 9 minutes on the yarn surface, and it is also related to requirement (2).

In other words, requirement (2) is necessary to obtain a soft touch and bulge; if this difference is less than 5%, the desired bulge will not be obtained; on the other hand, if this value exceeds 40%, the texture will be excessively hardened. It becomes a fabric.

In the present invention, the drawn yarn of polyester fiber is made of polyester having ethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit, or polyester copolymerized with ethylene isophthalate units in an amount of several moles to more than ten moles with respect to the repeating unit, and has a birefringence. The elongation is usually about 0.10 to 0.18, and the elongation is about 25% to 40%. In particular, the copolymerized polyester described above is effectively used to obtain a drawn yarn having a high shrinkage rate of 15% or more. In addition, heat-treated intermediately oriented polyester fibers have a birefringence of about 0.2 to 0.06 and a pure water shrinkage rate of about 0.2 to 0.06 in the spun state.
% or more of intermediately oriented yarn is heat-treated at a temperature of 160° C. to 200° C. for a very long time (for example, 0.1 seconds or less) to reduce its pure water shrinkage rate to 3% or less. Here, if ordinary intermediately oriented yarns that have not been heat treated (high shrinkage rate of pure water) are used, even if the mixed yarn shape and appearance satisfy the requirements of the present invention, the desired quality and bulge may not be achieved. , it is not possible to obtain improved drapability in addition to soft touch. The reason for this is the relaxing, dyeing, and
This is because the sheath yarn shrinks excessively in the finishing process, which not only gives the fabric a rough, hard feel with a strong core, but also makes it difficult to drape.

These two yarns are mixed and intertwined, and at that time, the yarn length difference between the two yarns is within 1%, that is, there is virtually no difference in the yarn length between the two yarns. It is necessary that the Here, the yarn length difference refers to a state in which, in a unit length of mixed yarn, the length of one yarn is longer by within 2% of the length of the other yarn. Further, the number of entanglements indicating the degree of intermixing/entanglement should normally be in the range of 40 to 100 entanglements/m.

Next, the method for manufacturing the polyester blend yarn of the present invention will be explained with reference to FIG. 2.

In the figure, the drawn yarn A taken out from the pirn 4 passes through the guide 5 and reaches the supply roller 6 in the fluid treatment area, from which it is supplied to the entangling treatment nozzle (2. On the other hand, the drawn yarn A taken out from the package 7 The thread 8 passes through the guide 5 and then passes through the supply roller 9, the heater IO, and the pull-out roller U.
It is supplied to a heat treatment zone consisting of a % or less, it is supplied to the entangling treatment nozzle 12, mixed and intertwined with the drawn yarn A, and then passed to the final roller L.
3 and then wound into the winder 14.

What is particularly important in the two-layer process is to keep the overfeed rate of the drawn yarn A and the heat-treated intermediate oriented yarn B low (3% at most) during the entangling process so that no loops or sag occur in the constituent single fibers. That's true. In this way, a polyester blend yarn is obtained that exhibits a smooth, non-bulky appearance similar to that of a normal flat yarn.

(Effects of the Invention) According to the present invention, the yarn usage and yarn structure of the conventional polyester blend yarn using intermediately oriented polyester fiber yarn as one component, that is, the drawn yarn of polyester fiber and the as-spun yarn are different from each other. A novel mixed fiber yarn using intermediately oriented polyester fibers (having a high pure water shrinkage rate) to replace a bulky two-layer yarn having loops or slack is provided.

In other words, the mixed yarn structure has substantially the same yarn length difference as the drawn yarn and the heat-treated intermediate oriented yarn, so that no loops or slacks are formed (mixed fibers and intertwined smooth surface condition). By doing so, we are able to create a fabric that has not only high quality, fullness, and soft touch, but also excellent drape properties, and we can provide products with new added value in the field of polyester fabrics. In this respect, its significance is enormous.

(Example) Using the process shown in Figure 2, Manufactured under the following conditions.

[Manufacturing conditions (1) Drawn yarn A... Drawn yarn of polyethylene terephthalate fiber 30de/12f i 1° Pure water shrinkage rate...15% (2) Intermediate oriented yarn 8...Polyethylene teresoft Intermediately oriented fiber yarn・80de/36f i 1°・Pure water shrinkage rate...45% (3) Heat treatment conditions for intermediately oriented yarn 8・Surface speed of supply roller 9...・Heater (plate type) % type % ・Surface speed of pull-out roller 11... 410 m/min 430 m/min The mixed fiber yarn of the present invention, tray overfeed rate... 5% (4) Heat-treated under the conditions of <3) above. Pure water shrinkage rate of intermediately oriented yarn B...2% (5) Surface speed of supply roller 6...405 m 7 minutes (6) Entanglement treatment nozzle...Douha Spindle Co., Ltd. Type MK-n interlaced nozzle, pneumatic pressure...3.0kg/cmG <7) Surface speed of final roller i3...400m 7 minutes (8) Surface speed of winder 14...398m 7 minutes (9) Weight ratio of drawn yarn A and heat-treated intermediate oriented yarn B...1:2.7 00) Difference in pure water shrinkage between yarn A and yarn B...A-B
= 13% or more, the polyester blend yarns have A and B yarns mixed with each other with a yarn length difference of 1.2% (A<B).
It was intertwined, and 62 intertwined points/m were given. In addition, no protrusions such as loops or slack of the constituent single fibers were observed on the yarn surface, and the yarn had a smooth appearance.

Next, this mixed fiber yarn was twisted to 100 OT/rn, and a gray fabric was used for the warp and weft (warp density: 4o threads/cm,
When the fabric (weft density: 45 threads/cm) was scoured and relaxed according to a conventional method, a fabric with excellent swelling, soft touch, and drapability was obtained. Furthermore, the dyed product had no irritation at all and was of high quality.

(Comparative Example 1) In the example, when the same operation as in Example 11 was repeated except that the heat treatment process of the intermediate oriented yarn was omitted, the intermediate oriented yarn was excessively shrunk in the scouring and relaxing process, and it became coarse and hard with a core. A fabric with a strong, hard touch and no drapery was obtained.

(Comparative Example 2) In the example, instead of the interlaced nozzle 12,
HEMA JET type T31 manufactured by Heperline Company
When the same operations as in Example 1 were repeated except for using the Taslan nozzle No. 1, a fabric was obtained that had good drapability, but had a strong bulky feel and an accentuated spun touch.

Such texture is caused by the large number of loops and slacks present on the surface of the mixed fiber yarn.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a side view of the mixed fiber yarn of the present invention, and a manufacturing process diagram of the mixed fiber yarn of the present invention. Figure 2 shows book 1...drawn yarn of polyester fiber 2...
・Heat-treated intermediate oriented polyester fiber yarn 3...Intertwining point

Claims (1)

[Claims] A yarn in which a drawn polyester fiber yarn (A) and a heat-set intermediately oriented polyester fiber yarn (B) are mixed and intertwined with each other, and the yarn surface has the constituent single fibers. There are no loops, a smooth thread surface, and the following (1) to (
A substantially non-bulky polyester blend yarn exhibiting an improved drape texture, which is characterized by simultaneously satisfying the requirements of 4). [Requirements] Requirement (1) The weight ratio of A:B is in the range of 1.5:1 to 1:3. Requirement (2) The boiling water shrinkage rate of B is 3% or less. Requirement (3) A boiling water shrinkage rate is 7% or more. Requirement (4) The boiling water shrinkage ratio relationship between A and B satisfies 5 (%)≦A-B≦40 (%).