JPH0259509A - Permanent wave agent - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a permanent wave agent remarkably improving the waving effect of hair after applied and improving the touch feeling of the hair by compounding a specific surfactant. CONSTITUTION:A permanent wave agent contains (A) an anionic surfactant and a surfactant (e.g., fatty acid alkanolamide or carboxybetaine) excluding the anionic surfactant and having an N atom in the molecule in a molar ratio of 20:1-1:20, preferably 10:1-1:10 or contains (B) an amphoteric surfactant (e.g., an aminocarboxylic acid salt) and/or a semi-polar surfactant (e.g., an amine oxide) and a nonionic surfactant (e.g., POE fatty acid amide) having an N atom in the molecule in a molar ratio of 20:1-1:20, preferably 10:1-1:10. (C) An amine oxide, e.g., dimethyllaurylamine oxide, is further compounded with the composition in an amount of 0.05-10wt.%, preferably 0.1-5wt.% based on the whole amount of the composition.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a permanent waving agent that significantly improves the waving effect after hair treatment and improves the feel of the hair. It is something.

[Prior art] The first agent for permanent waving is mainly composed of a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid or its salt or cysteine, and an alkaline agent such as aqueous ammonia or monoethanolamine is added to the sieve to reduce the PTL of the liquid. is used after adjusting it to 8 to 9.5. The second agent mainly contains an oxidizing agent such as sodium bromate, potassium bromate, or hydrogen peroxide.

The first agent cleaves cystine bonds in hair keratin to form cysteine residues, and in order to effectively eliminate this action, the pH is set at 8 to 9.5.

The second agent recombines the cysdine residues generated by the first agent as cystine bonds, thereby fixing the waves. If the pH of the first agent is made too high or the treatment time of the first agent is prolonged on already damaged hair, the hair will be significantly damaged. Furthermore, if the second agent is left to act for a longer time than necessary or heated too much, cystic acid will be completely formed in the hair, and the hair will also be damaged.

These hair damages caused by permanent waving agents can cause the hair to lose its luster, and the cuticle layer on the hair surface to become disordered and give a rough feel.
Also, combs are usually bad.

Many attempts have been made to prevent such hair damage and to improve the feel of the hair.

For example, a permanent wave layer agent in which a keratin hydrolyzate and a cationic surfactant are blended in the first part (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 57-85309), a cationic polymer is blended in the first part, and at the same time in the second part. A compound containing an anionic surfactant (JP-A-56-100710) has been widely used. Although the above-mentioned known permanent waving agents are effective to some extent in protecting hair from damage and improving the feel of the hair, the odor of the first agent may become worse, or the permanent waving agent may need to be applied several times. As a result, the hair may become hard and stiff, so it is not always sufficient.

Generally, hair damage caused by permanent waving agents is considered to be unavoidable to some extent since their effects are based on chemical reactions.

Therefore, it is necessary to give excellent smoothness and antistatic effect to damaged hair, protect the hair from mechanical friction such as brushing and brushing after perm treatment, and take care to prevent further hair damage. It is. Conventionally, rinse agents, hair treatment agents, etc. have been applied after perm treatment for this purpose, but the treatment was complicated and time-consuming.

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] In view of the above circumstances, the present inventors have created a permanent waving agent that improves the waving effect after a permanent waving treatment and at the same time provides an excellent feel to the hair. As a result of intensive research to see if it could be obtained, it was discovered that by blending a specific surfactant into a permanent waving agent, a permanent waving agent with excellent waving power that improved the conventional drawbacks could be obtained, and the present invention. I was able to complete it.

[Means for Solving the Problem] In other words, the invention according to claim 1 is based on a method comprising one or more anionic surfactants and a surfactant having a nitrogen atom in the molecule other than the anionic surfactant. This is a permanent waving agent characterized by containing one or more types.

The invention according to claim 2 contains one or more types of amphoteric surfactants and semipolar surfactants, and one or more types of nonionic surfactants having a nitrogen atom in the molecule. This is a permanent waving agent characterized by:

The invention according to claim 3 is a permanent waving agent characterized by containing an amine oxide.

The permanent waving agent of the present invention includes the first permanent waving layer agent and the second permanent waving layer agent.
means a drug. Generally, the first permanent wave layer agent is:
The main ingredient is a reducing agent that breaks cystine bonds in hair, such as thioglycolic acid or its salts, cysteine or bisulfite, and an alkaline agent such as aqueous ammonia, ethanolamine, or ammonium carbonate is added to this. The second agent mainly contains an oxidizing agent such as sodium bromate, potassium bromate, and hydrogen peroxide solution to recombine the cysteine residues in the hair that were cleaved by the first agent.

The anionic surfactant according to claim 1 includes soap bases, fatty acid soaps such as sodium laurate and sodium palmitate, higher alkyl sulfate ester salts such as sodium lauryl sulfate and potassium lauryl sulfate,
Polyoxyethylene (hereinafter abbreviated as POE) triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, alkyl ether sulfate ester salts such as POE sodium lauryl sulfate, N-acyl sarcosinates such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium N-myristoyl-N-methyltaurate, coconut oil Higher fatty acid amide sulfonates such as sodium fatty acid methyltauride and sodium lauryl methyltauride;
Sonoic acid ester salts such as POE sodium oleyl ether phosphate, POE stearyl ether phosphate, etc.
Sulfosuccinates such as sodium ethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, monolauroyl monoethanolamide polyoxyethylene sodium sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl polypropylene glycol sulfosuccinate, sodium linear dodecylbenzene sulfonate, triethanolamine linear dodecylbenzene sulfonate, linear dodecylbenzene Alkylbenzenesulfonic acid salts such as sulfonic acid, N-monosodium N-lauroylglutamate, disodium N-stearoylglutamate, monosodium N-myristoyl-glutamate, etc.
Acyl glutamate, higher fatty acid ester sulfate salts such as hydrogenated coconut oil fatty acid glycerol sodium sulfate,
Sulfated oil such as funnel oil, POE alkyl ether carboxylic acid, POE alkyl allyl ether carboxylate, α
-Olefin sulfonate, higher fatty acid ester sulfonate, secondary alcohol sulfate ester salt, higher fatty acid alkylolamide sulfate ester salt, sodium lauroyl monoethanolamide succinate, N-balmitoylaspartate ditriethanolamine, sodium caseinate etc. can be mentioned. One or more types are arbitrarily selected from these.

On the other hand, as a surfactant having a nitrogen atom in the molecule other than the anionic surfactant used in claim 1,
Examples include nonionic surfactants having a nitrogen atom in the molecule, amphoteric surfactants, semipolar surfactants, and cationic surfactants.

Examples of nonionic surfactants having a nitrogen atom in the molecule include fatty acid alkanolamide, POE fatty acid amide,
Examples include esters of alkanolamines, POE alkylamines, and the like.

As an amphoteric surfactant having a nitrogen atom in its molecule, N
, N-dimethyl-N-lauryl-N-carboxymethylammonium betaine, N,N-dimethyl-N-oleyl-N-carboxymethylammonium betaine, etc., carboxybetaine, 2-lauryl-N-lauryl-N-carboxyethyl-N-hydroxyethyl imidazolinium betaine,
Imidacillin derivatives such as 2-lauryl-N-carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyedylimidabrinium betaine, amino acids such as N-cocoalkyl-β-aminopropionic acid sodium salt, N-cocoalkyl-β-iminodipropionic acid disodium salt, etc. Examples include carboxylic acid salts, sulfobetaine, aminobetaine, and the like.

As a semipolar surfactant that has a nitrogen atom in its molecule,
Amine oxides such as lauryl dimethyl amine oxide, stearyl dimethyl amine oxide, and bis=(2-hydroxyethyl) lauryl amine oxide can be mentioned.

Examples of the cationic surfactant having a nitrogen atom in the molecule include aliphatic amine salts, alkyl quaternary ammonium salts, aromatic quaternary ammonium salts, pyridinium salts, and imidazolinium salts.

One or more surfactants having a nitrogen atom in the molecule other than the above-mentioned anionic surfactants can be arbitrarily selected and used.

The molar ratio of the above anionic surfactant to a surfactant other than the anionic surfactant having a nitrogen atom in its molecule is preferably 20:1 to 1:20, more preferably 10:1 to 1. :10. The total blending amount of the anionic surfactant and the surfactant other than the anionic surfactant having a nitrogen atom in the molecule in the permanent waving agent is preferably 0.05 to 0.05 in the total amount of the composition.
The content is 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 5M%. If the blending amount is less than 0.05% by weight, the waving force after treatment will not have sufficient effect, and 1
If it is added in an amount exceeding 0% by weight, problems such as stickiness and other problems arise.

The amphoteric surfactant used in claim 2 of the present invention includes N,N-dimethyl-N-lauryl-N-carboxymethylammonium betaine, NlN-dimethyl-
Carboxybetaine such as N-oleyl-N-carboxymethylammonium betaine, 2-lauryl-N-carboxyethyl-N-hydroxyethylimidazolinium betaine, 2-lauryl-N-carboxymethyl-N-
Imidacillin derivatives such as hydroxyethylimidazolinium betaine, aminocarboxylic acid salts such as N-coconut-alkyl-β-aminopropionate sodium salt, N-coconut-coconut-β-iminodipropionate disodium salt, sulfobetaine, amidobetaine, etc. can be mentioned.

Semipolar surfactants include lauryl dimethylamine oxide, stearyl dimethylamine oxide, bis-(
Examples include amine oxides such as 2-hydroxyethyl) laurylamine oxide.

One or more types can be arbitrarily selected and used from the group consisting of the above amphoteric surfactants and semipolar surfactants.

On the other hand, examples of the nonionic surfactant having a nitrogen atom in the molecule used in claim 2 include fatty acid alkanolamide, POE fatty acid amide, ester of alkanolamine, POE alkylamine, etc. One pole or two or more kinds can be arbitrarily selected and used.

The ratio of the above amphoteric surfactant and semipolar surfactant to the nonionic surfactant having a nitrogen atom in the molecule is:
The ratio is preferably 20:1 to 1:20, more preferably 10:1 to 1:10. The total amount of the amphoteric surfactant and semipolar surfactant and the nonionic surfactant having a nitrogen atom in the molecule in the permanent waving agent is preferably 0.05 to 10% of the total amount of the composition. % by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight. The blending amount is 0.05
If the amount is less than 10% by weight, the waving force after the treatment will not be sufficiently effective, and if it is more than 10% by weight, problems such as stickiness and other problems will arise.

The amine oxide according to claim 3 has the following general formula (
Examples are A) to (C).

R2N→0 (A) (in the formula R2,
R2 and R3 represent a straight chain or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, and R1, R2
, R3 represents a straight chain or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 8 or more carbon atoms. ) Specific examples of the amine oxide represented by the general formula (A) include dimethyl lauryl amine oxide, dimethyl myristyl amine oxide, dimethyl cetyl amine oxide, dimethyl stearyl amine oxide, dimethyl oleyl amine oxide, dimethyl behenyl amine oxide,
Examples include methyl dilaurylamine oxide.

Cf (2CH20H R4N→O! (B) represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group on a branch) R3 R5(OC82CH2)n N→0 (C) (Represents a straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, and n represents an integer from 1 to 5.) In the present invention, one or more of these amine oxides are arbitrarily selected and used. .

The total amount of amine oxide in the permanent waving agent is preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition. If the blending amount is less than 0.05% by weight, the waving force after the treatment will not be able to provide a sufficient effect, and if it is blended in excess of 10 times, there will be problems such as stickiness and reduced feeling of use. .

When the permanent waving agent of the present invention is the first permanent waving solvent, the main reducing agent is thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid or salts thereof, cysteine, doacetylcysteine, homocystine, etc. Examples include mercapto compounds or inorganic reducing agents such as sulfites, hydrogen sulfites, pyrosulfites, and thiosulfates. Counterion moieties for the above salts include alkali metals, ammonium, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2- 7 minnow 2-methyl-propatool,
Examples thereof include 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol, isopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, guanidine, and basic amino acids.

These reducing agents may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

Naturally, in addition to the above ingredients, aqueous ammonia, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol, isopropanolamine, diisopropanediol, Alkaline agents such as patoolamine, guanidine carbonate, guanidine hydrochloride, guanidine sulfate, basic amino acids, ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, etc. can be blended.

When the permanent waving agent of the present invention is a second permanent waving solvent, examples of the main oxidizing agent include sodium bromate, potassium bromate, sodium perborate, and hydrogen peroxide. These oxidizing agents may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

In order to further enhance the usefulness of both the first and second permanent wave solvents, other surfactants, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, nonionic polymers, oils and fats such as animal oils and vegetable oils, and minerals are added. Hydrocarbons such as oils, synthetic branched ester oils, waxes, silicone oils, glycol-modified silicones, amino-modified silicones, glycerin, polyols such as propylene glycol, amino acids and amino acid oligos or polybebutites, ethyl alcohol, isopropyl Solvents such as alcohol, urea, and alkylurea, hydrogen bond breakers, metal ion sequestrants, various buffers, fragrances, and dyes can be added.

[Effects of the Invention] The permanent waving agent of the present invention significantly improves the waving effect after treatment and improves the feel of the hair.

[Example] Next, the present invention will be explained in detail with reference to Examples. The present invention is not limited to these. The blending amount is in weight%. Prior to Examples, effectiveness tests and evaluation methods will be explained.

A 10% shampoo solution (unscented, uncolored) for women in their 20s with healthy black hair (perms, hair conditioning - no bleach treatment)
After washing with water and rinsing thoroughly with running water, let it air dry indoors.

Align the roots and tips of the hair, tie 12 hairs together at the roots, and use this as a hair sample. Immerse it in a prototype of one of the perm agents described later at 30°C for 15 minutes, then rinse it under running water for 3 minutes.
After washing for 0 seconds, the samples were immersed in the two-agent prototype at 30°C for 20 minutes. Finally, wash it under running water for 30 seconds, then hang it indoors to air dry. These hair samples were tested using a friction and abrasion tester model NRF (
The coefficient of kinetic friction (μK) with respect to the aluminum pulley was measured using the Nippon Rheology Instruments Co., Ltd.). The same sample was measured 10 times and the average was taken. In addition, the coefficient of kinetic friction (μ, D: 24℃) of treated hair when dry is
, 40±5 x RH) and when wet with water (μ,
Measurements were made for each of the two cases w). It is considered that the smaller the coefficient of dynamic friction (μ, o) is, the smoother the feel of dry hair after perming is. Similarly, it is considered that the smaller the dynamic friction coefficient (μx, w) is, the smoother the hair feels when wet with water.

- of.

The same hair sample as in (1) is prepared, and the hair is cut at a distance of 120 m+++ from the knot to the tip of the hair. Wrap the hair sample uniformly around a glass tube (φ = 7.5 mm) from the root.
Secure the end with a plastic stopper.

After immersing a prototype product of perm agent 1 (described later) at 30°C for 15 minutes and washing it with running water for 30 seconds, immersing it in a prototype product of perm agent 2 at 30°C.
Soak for 0 minutes. Finally, after rinsing with running water for 30 seconds, the hair is removed from the glass tube to form a hair coil. Diameter of hair coil when wet (dw, (mm))
After wiping off excess water with absorbent paper, hang the hair coil and measure its length (lv, (mm)). The same sample was measured 10 times, and the average was taken. Hair coil diameter (dw) and length (1
It is considered that the smaller w) is, the higher the weave efficiency is.

-C11 璽人jL [1ffL Hair bundles (15 cm long, 3 cm wide, 1.5 g in weight) are created using hair that has almost the same hair condition (thickness, hardness, degree of damage), and are used for permanent waves. The drug was evaluated. Prototype ITn of the first perm agent described later
t and wind it using an end paper rod. Apply 1d of agent 1 again and leave it in a constant temperature bath at 30°C. After 15 minutes, soak in lukewarm water at about 40℃ for about 30 minutes.
After rinsing with water for a few seconds and wiping off excess water with a towel, apply 1 ml of a prototype of the two perming agents described later and leave it for 5 minutes at room temperature.

Apply 1 ml of the second agent again and leave it for 15 minutes. Finally, remove the rod and wash it with lukewarm water at about 40℃ for about 30 seconds.
Wipe off excess water with a towel and perform the following sensory evaluation.

in dry condition a. Combability Smoothness c. Shinayakaki d. Wave elasticity Evaluate.

Sensory evaluation was performed using the following five-step evaluation method.

X: Bad Δ; Average O: Fairly good 0: Fairly good O: Very good Examples 1 to 6, Comparative Examples 1 to 3 Table 1 shows the prototype formulation and evaluation results of permanent wave layer agent 1. The two permanent wave layer agents used in this test were all the same, and their formulations are shown below.

Two-drug prescription [Prescription A] Sodium bromate monobasic potassium phosphate Disodium phosphoric acid 12 hydrate Sodium benzoate Purified water 6.0 0.5 0.05 0.1 93.35 Evidently from Table 1 As such, all the embodiments of the present invention are
It can be seen that the waving efficiency is extremely good and the feel of the hair is also excellent.

Examples 7 to 9, Comparative Examples 4 to 6 Table 2 shows the prototype formulation and evaluation results of the two permanent wave layer agents. The permanent wave layer agent 1 used in this test was all common, and the formulation is shown below.

1 drug prescription [B prescription] Ammonium thioglycolate solution (contains 50% as thioglycolic acid) Ammonium bicarbonate Monoethanolamine Disodium edetate Purified water 13.0 3.4 1.2 0.1 82.3 (Below) Margin) As is clear from Table 2, Examples of the present invention Yes No. 2
When 80 ml of the agent (formulation A) was used (left for 20 minutes), the wave efficiency was extremely good, and the roller
It can be seen that the waving efficiency is extremely good and the hairdressing feel is also excellent. It was also found that the feel was excellent.

Example 10 Permanent wave layer agent 1 agent (thioglycolic acid type) Ammonium thioglycolate solution 12.0 (
(Contains 50% as thioglycolic acid) Monoethanolamine 1.5 Ammonium bicarbonate 3.0 Sodium dozacil sulfate

2.0 lauryl dimethylamine oxide
1.5 lauryl imigsolium betaine
0.5 polyoxyethylene (
12 (Le) Stearin Ether
0.5 edetate disodium
0.05 purified water
Remainder Production Method By combining the above compositions and stirring, a transparent and stable first
obtained the drug.

Using 80mL of crystal, apply it to your hair (leave it for 10 minutes),
Example 11 Permanent wave layer agent 1 agent (cystine type) L-cysteine 6.0 Ammonium thioglycolate solution 2.0 (Contains 50% as thioglycolic acid) Monoethanolamine 2.5 Ammonia water reagent special grade (2
8%) 1.0 lauylmethine taurine sodium
2.0
sodium laurate
0.5 myristyldimethylamine oxide
2.0 polyoxyethylene (10 moles)
stearyl ether
0.5 Edetate disodium 0.
10 Purified water Remaining method: Combine the above composition and stir to obtain a transparent and stable first water.
obtained the drug.

Using 80mL of crystal, apply it to your hair (leave it for 15 minutes),
When the second agent (prescription A) 80+++l was used (leaved for 20 minutes), the waving efficiency was extremely high and the hair felt excellent.

Example 12 Curling agent 1st part Sodium bisulfite 5.0 Monoethanolamine 2.5 Isopropyl alcohol 5.0 Coconut oil fatty acid diechnolamide
2.0 Laurylvequin
1.
2 laurylamide betaine
0.5 polyoxyethylene (10 mol) oleyl ether
0.2 Purified water
Remainder Production Method The above compositions were combined and stirred to obtain a uniformly cloudy and stable first agent.

Treatment on hair using crystal 80rnL (dryer 60rnL)
When 80 ml of the second agent (prescription A) was used (left for 10 minutes), the hair was extremely effective and had an excellent texture on the hair.

Example 13 Permanent wave layer agent 1 agent (cystine type) DL-cystine 3. O
N-acetyl-L-cysteine 3.
0 ammonium thioglycolate solution 2.0 (
Guanidine carbonate (contains 50% as thioglycolic acid)
1.0 Monoethanolamine 1.0 Ammonia water reagent special grade (2
8χ) 1.0 medylbolysiloxane (20cs)
1.0 Polyoxyethylene (3 mol) Sodium dotecyl sulfate 1.5 Sodium laurate
0.5 Sodium chloride? Lyltrimethylammonium
0.6 Polyoxyethylene (20 mol) Hardened castor oil so-called conductor 2.5 Disodium edetate 0.10 Purified water
Remainder Production Method The above compositions were combined and stirred to obtain a uniformly cloudy and stable first agent.

Using 80mL of ice crystals, apply the treatment to your hair (leave it for 20 minutes),
When 80 ml of the second agent (prescription A) was used (leaved for 20 minutes), the waving efficiency was extremely high and the hair felt excellent.

Example 14 Permanent wave layer agent 2nd agent (sodium bromate type) Sodium bromate 7.0 1st
Potassium phosphate 0.5 Disodium hydrogen phosphate dodecahydrate 0.05 Stearyl dimethylamine oxide
4.0 Seisui water
Remainder Production Method By combining the above compositions and stirring, a transparent and stable second
obtained the drug.

When I used 80mQ of the first agent (prescription B) and applied it to my hair (leaved for 10 minutes), and used 80mt of ice crystals (leaved for 15 minutes), the waving efficiency was extremely high and the feel of the hair was excellent. .

Example 15 Permanent wave layer agent 2nd agent (hydrogen peroxide type) Hydrogen peroxide solution (30X) 9.
0 Monobasic potassium phosphate 0.3 Sodium lauryl sulfate
2.0 lauryl dimethylamine oxide
1.2 Stearyltrimethylamine chloride
0.5 polyoxyethylene (10 mol) oleyl ether
1.0 purified water
Remainder Production Method By combining the above compositions and stirring, a transparent and stable second
obtained the drug.

When I used 80 mQ of the first agent (prescription B) and applied it to my hair (leaved for 10 minutes), and used 80 mL of ice crystals (leaved for 5 minutes), the waving efficiency was extremely high and the feel of the hair was excellent. .

Patent applicant: Shiseido Co., Ltd.

Claims (3)

[Claims] (1) Permanent wave characterized by containing one or more types of anionic surfactant and one or more types of surfactant other than the anionic surfactant and having a nitrogen atom in the molecule. Medication. (2) A permanent containing one or more amphoteric surfactants and semipolar surfactants, and one or more nonionic surfactants having a nitrogen atom in the molecule. Wave agent. (3) A permanent waving agent characterized by containing an amine oxide.