JPH0252013B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention is extremely novel in woven and knitted fabrics, having alternating dark and light dyed areas with differences in dyeability and irregularities in fineness along the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The present invention relates to a method for producing special polyester processed yarn that exhibits a unique appearance and texture, and allows for the production of various woven and knitted fabrics ranging from marbled to dull tones.

Conventionally, as yarns with surface effects in woven and knitted fabrics, two or more types of short fibers or filament yarns with different dyeability have been mixed to obtain woven or knitted fabrics with fine marbling-like patterns or rough patterned patterns. Various types of yarns are used, such as yarns obtained by slubbing, slub yarns intermittently mixed with short fibers, etc.

However, since all of these yarns are obtained by mixing two or more types of fibers with different dyeability, there are problems in terms of workability and management in terms of actual production of yarns and woven and knitted surfaces. However, the pattern patterns of woven and knitted fabrics were extremely complex, and the pattern patterns for woven and knitted fabrics had to be limited.

In addition, synthetic filament yarns with different dyeability have a cold appearance and a waxy feel to the touch, and because the filament yarns are uniform, they give a hard texture, soft feel, and volume. It has the disadvantage that it lacks texture and is inferior in feel to woven and knitted fabrics obtained from spun yarns, particularly woolen yarns.

On the other hand, Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-7207 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 53-45418 disclose a method of forming orientation irregularities in the longitudinal direction of the filaments constituting the yarn to impart a difference in dyeability between light and shade.
Publication No. 147618, Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 147618, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 1983-
This is proposed in Publication No. 16931, etc.

However, these methods only form random fineness irregularities on the filament, and only a marbled appearance can be obtained from the fabric, which is extremely variable from the coarse scabbing to the fine marbled appearance that the present invention aims at. However, the disadvantage was that no change in appearance could be obtained.

Furthermore, in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 57-199826 and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 57-199829, the present applicant has disclosed that a liquid having a heat shielding effect is intermittently applied in the longitudinal direction of the yarn,
After continuous heat treatment, drawing and simultaneous false twisting makes the liquid-applied part a light-colored part and the non-liquid-adhered part a dark-colored part in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and also creates thick and fine spots between the two parts. We proposed a processed yarn that does not have

However, because the dyeability of this processed yarn changes only in the part to which the liquid is attached, only a rough and monotonous kasuri-like appearance can be obtained, and it cannot be easily changed from the rough kasuri-like to the fine marbling tones that the present invention aims at. It was not possible to obtain a fabric with rich changes in appearance, and there was a drawback that the adaptability to changes in appearance was poor.

Furthermore, Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-31938 proposes a method for producing crimped yarn that can obtain a difference in color by applying water intermittently to thermoplastic drawn yarn and then subjecting it to false twisting. . However, the textured yarn obtained by this method can only express the difference in shade and light color depending on the presence or absence of water adhesion, and the coarse rasp tone and fine marbling tone that the present invention is aimed at coexist, giving it a rich variety. It was not possible to produce a fabric with an appearance effect, and there was a drawback that it had poor adaptability to desired changes in appearance.

The present invention has been made in order to eliminate the drawbacks of the prior art and to meet the demands of the market.
The aim is to create a coarse pattern effect with a kasuri-like effect due to clear dyeing differences alternating along the longitudinal direction of the yarn, as well as the presence of random fineness irregularities on the single filament in the darkly dyed area. And for this reason,
It also has a fine marbled pattern effect, a new appearance effect with a mixture of Kasuri style and marbled style, and a texture similar to wool spun yarn due to the uneven crimpability of the textured false-twisted yarn and the difference in physical properties within the filament. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a special polyester processed yarn that can obtain a woven or knitted fabric having both of the following properties: It is in.

The features of the present invention for achieving this purpose are as follows:
A highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn with a birefringence index (Δn) of 15 to 80×10 ^-3 is intermittently applied with a liquid along its longitudinal direction, and then the yarn is subjected to a relaxation rate of 20
% or more, and then the yarn is continuously subjected to stretching and false twisting, and along the length of the yarn, the part to which the liquid is attached becomes a light-dyed part, and the part to which the liquid is not attached. is a darkly stained area, and
Forming thickness irregularities in the darkly dyed area and forming short light dyed areas in the single filament of the darkly dyed area.The method of the present invention will be explained in more detail below.

The first feature of the method of the present invention is the supplied raw yarn, which needs to be an undrawn polyester yarn having a birefringence (Δn) of 15 to 80×10 ⁻³ . If the birefringence (Δn) is less than 15 × 10 ^-3 , the parts to which no liquid is attached will become brittle during thermal contraction, which will be described later.
Yarn breakage occurred frequently during the subsequent drawing/false twisting process.
On the other hand, if it exceeds 80 x 10 ^-3 , the difference in physical properties due to heat shrinkage between the part to which the liquid is not attached and the part to which the liquid is attached will not be sufficiently expressed, and a clear dyeing difference will not be obtained. This is undesirable because the heat shrinkage ability is reduced and it is not possible to impart fineness unevenness to the single filaments constituting the yarn.

Next, the second feature of the method of the present invention is intermittent application of liquid, and it is necessary to apply liquid intermittently to the highly oriented undrawn polyester yarn along its longitudinal direction. Here, an aqueous liquid is one that contains a majority (50% by weight or more) of water by weight, and substances other than water include surfactants, dyeing aids, rust preventives, etc. It can be anything. In order to attach a liquid to highly oriented undrawn polyester yarn, there are several methods, such as passing the upper part of a rotating roller whose lower part is immersed in the liquid intermittently, or spraying the liquid intermittently. Any method may be used as long as the liquid can be applied intermittently to the drawn yarn at appropriate lengths. In particular, a method that uses a microcomputer and a random pulse generation unit is a method that allows the liquid to be applied at random intervals and lengths. It is particularly suitable because it provides

Further, the third feature of the method of the present invention is to heat-shrink the yarn, and it is necessary to heat-shrink the yarn to which a liquid is intermittently attached at a relaxation rate of 20% or more. In this case, if the relaxation rate is less than 20%, the shrinkage of the single filaments constituting the yarn will be small, making it impossible to impart the uneven fineness of the single filaments that is the object of the present invention, which is not preferable. On the other hand, the higher the relaxation rate, the greater the unevenness in the fineness of the single filament, but this is not practical because the yarn cannot run stably, so the relaxation rate is 30 to 60.
% is desirable.

In general, thermoplastic yarn called drawn yarn is 20
% or more is not possible. Therefore, in the present invention, as described above, it is necessary to use a highly oriented undrawn polyester yarn having a specific degree of orientation and having high shrinkage performance as the yarn to be supplied.

The tension of the running yarn during heat contraction corresponds to the heat shrinkage stress of the yarn and is extremely small. Therefore, in order to make the yarn run stably, it is necessary to use a non-contact method that does not allow the yarn to come into contact with the heating device. It is preferable to use a formula.

The fourth configuration of the method of the present invention is to perform a stretching false twisting process, and in this case, the stretching ratio (D) is 1+0.8S/100≦D≦1+1.2S/100 S: Relaxation rate (%
) is preferable.

In the present invention, unevenness in fineness is imparted to the single filament by heat shrinkage, but according to the experimental results of the present inventors, if the drawing during the drawing false twisting process that follows heat shrinkage is insufficient, Due to uneven fineness due to shrinkage, drawing stress is not applied uniformly, stress and twist are concentrated in small areas, and the uneven fineness of the single filament further increases. In other words, when the draw ratio (D) exceeds 1 + 1.2S/100, the unevenness of fineness formed by heat shrinkage tends to disappear, while when the draw ratio (D) exceeds 1 + 0.8S/100, If it is less than 100, a high degree of orientation of the liquid-attached portion will not proceed and the difference in dyeing density will tend to decrease, which is not preferable. Therefore, in order to make the fineness unevenness of the single filament in the darkly dyed area where the liquid is not attached noticeable and to promote the high orientation of the liquid attached area to make it light dyed, the stretching ratio should be adjusted as described above. It is desirable that (D) be in the range of 1+0.8S/100≦D≦1+1.2S/100.

In addition, in the method of the present invention, if the heat-shrinked yarn is once wound up into a package and then subjected to a drawing/false twisting process, the convergence of the single filament will be disturbed due to liquid adhesion and the heat-shrinking operation. During the draw false twisting process, if the single filament is pulled when the yarn is pulled out of the package, it may cause yarn breakage, so the process up to heat shrinkage and the draw false twist process must be performed in series.

Furthermore, a fifth configuration of the method of the present invention is that the yarn subjected to the stretch false twisting process is formed with light dyed areas and dark dyed areas alternately along the longitudinal direction of the yarn,
In addition to having a coarse pattern effect with a rusty texture, there are random fineness irregularities in the single filament in the deep dyed area, so it also has a fine marbled pattern effect.
The object of the present invention is to provide a processed yarn that can be used to create woven or knitted fabrics having a novel appearance effect with a mixture of slivers and marbling.

In other words, the part of the yarn to which the liquid is attached is hardly affected by the heat treatment effect during heat shrinkage, and becomes highly oriented during stretching and false-twisting to become a lightly dyed part, while the part to which the liquid is not attached is not affected by the heat treatment effect. The single filament undergoes heat shrinkage and fineness unevenness occurs, and since the heat shrinks and shrinks and crystallizes at this time, there is little stretching deformation during the draw false twisting process, and the fineness unevenness that appears during heat shrinkage is caused by elongation stress in the details. Twisting due to false twisting is concentrated and the thick and thin spots are enlarged, resulting in a darkly dyed area with further increased fineness spots. In this way, along the longitudinal direction of the yarn, light-dyed areas to which the liquid is attached and dark-dyed areas to which the liquid is not attached are alternately formed, and at the same time, inside the dark-dyed areas, Thick spots are formed, and short light-stained areas are present within the single filament of dark-stained areas. Therefore, when a woven or knitted fabric using the obtained processed yarn is dyed, a rough pattern with a smudge-like pattern is formed by the darkly dyed part and the lightly dyed part, and at the same time, the light dyed part that exists in the darkly dyed part Depending on the area, a fine marbled pattern is formed within the darkly dyed area.

Therefore, if the special polyester processed yarn obtained by the present invention is used for woven or knitted fabrics, it will be possible to obtain a new appearance effect with a mixture of a coarse pattern effect with a kasuri pattern effect and a fine pattern effect with a marble pattern effect due to the difference in dyeing, as well as a fineness. It is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric that has a texture similar to wool spun yarn due to the uneven crimpability of the unevenly twisted yarn and the physical property differences within the filament.

FIG. 2 is a schematic external view showing an example of a yarn processed by the method of the present invention. In the figure, A indicates a light dyed area to which liquid is attached, and B indicates a dark and light area to which no liquid is attached. Lightly dyed areas A and darkly dyed areas B are alternately formed along the longitudinal direction. In the darkly dyed areas (B) and (3), thick fineness areas (C) of the single filament are mixed, and uneven fineness is formed in the longitudinal direction of the single filament.

FIG. 1 is a process schematic diagram showing an example of the manufacturing process of the method of the present invention, in which the yarn F pulled out from the highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn spool 1 passes through a feed roller 2 to a liquid adhesion device 3. Therefore, the liquid is intermittently deposited, then enters the first heating device 4, is heat-shrinked at a predetermined relaxation rate by the feed roller 2 and the first delivery roller 5, and is heated by the first delivery roller 5. After that, the paper is sent to a stretching/false twisting area, where it is stretched at a predetermined stretching ratio between the first delivery roller 5 and the second delivery roller 8, and simultaneously twisted by the false twisting device 7 and subjected to second heating. It is heat-fixed by the device 6, passed through the second delivery roller 8, and then wound up by the winding roller 9 into the package 10 as a false twisted crimped yarn.

Polyester in the present invention is a general term for polyesters containing ester bonds in the molecular chain, represented by polyethylene terephthalate, and tertiary polyesters such as isophthalic acid and paraoxyethoxybenzoic acid
It also includes modified polyesters containing components.

As described above, the method of the present invention involves intermittently applying a liquid to a highly oriented undrawn polyester yarn and subjecting it to specific heat shrinkage and stretching false twisting.
Skillfully utilizes the high shrinkage characteristics and crystallization orientation characteristics of highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn to form dyed density differences in the longitudinal direction of the yarn and impart fineness unevenness to the single filaments that make up the yarn. Therefore, by using the processed yarn obtained by the method of the present invention, it is possible to create a pattern with a mixture of fine marbled patterns and coarse patterns, a soft and voluminous texture, and firmness. Thus, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric that has a texture similar to wool spun yarn and a firm grip. In addition, the method of the present invention allows the dyeing density differences in yarns and the appearance of fineness unevenness in single filaments to be produced in one manufacturing process by intermittent liquid deposition, and these can be adjusted as appropriate. Processed yarn that can freely change the pattern and texture of woven or knitted fabrics can be easily obtained. Furthermore, for the same reason as mentioned above, the method of the present invention is less complicated in terms of workability and management than the conventional method of mixing two or more types of short fibers or filaments, and is more efficient due to the separation of foreign materials found in such processed yarns. There are advantages such as no problems such as poor mixing.

The method of the present invention will be specifically explained below using Examples.

Example 1 Highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn obtained by high speed spinning
230d/48f (birefringence (Δn) 50×10 ^-3 ) is supplied to the feed roller in the step shown in FIG.
After applying water intermittently along the longitudinal direction of the yarn using a microcomputer and a random pulse generation unit, a feed roller and a first delivery roller set the relaxation rate to 40%, and the first
Heat shrink at a heater temperature of 220°C, then draw at a stretching ratio of 1.4 using the first delivery roller and second delivery roller, and spindle rotation speed at 12.5×10 ⁴ rp.
Stretching and false twisting were performed at m, false twist number 1620T/M (twisting direction, Z direction) and second heater temperature 210°C to obtain processed yarn according to the method of the present invention.

The length of the light dyed part of the obtained processed yarn is 8 to 12 cm.
(average 10cm), and the number was 30 per 100m. Further, when an arbitrary single filament from this processed yarn was taken out and the diameter of the filament was observed over 50 cm, the minimum diameter was 63.3μ and the maximum diameter was 80.3μ.

Next, this processed yarn was woven into a plain structure with a warp density of 68 threads/inch and a weft density of 60 threads/inch, dyed with a blue disperse dye, and finished. A fabric was obtained which had a textured pattern, a soft texture, a voluminous feel, and a texture similar to that of a spun wool yarn with firmness and elasticity.

Example 2 A processed yarn of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the settings of the microcomputer were changed to increase the portion to which water adhered and to shorten the length. The length of the light dyed part of the obtained processed yarn was 0.8 to 3.5 cm (average 2.4 cm), and the number was 1200 per 100 m. Further, when an arbitrary single filament from this processed yarn was taken out and the filament diameter was observed over a 50 cm length, the minimum diameter was 62.8μ and the maximum diameter was 81.2μ.

When this processed yarn was woven according to the same plan as in Example 1 and dyed and finished in the same manner, the resulting fabric had a clear marbling pattern, a soft texture, a voluminous feel, and firmness and a firm waist. It was made of a certain fabric.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a process schematic diagram showing an example of the manufacturing process of the method of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the appearance of processed yarn by the method of the present invention. DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1... Spool, 2... Feed roller, 3... Liquid adhesion device, 4... First heating device, 5... First delivery roller, 6... Second heating device, 7... False twisting device, 8... Second Delivery roller, 9... Winding up roller, 10... Package cage, F... Yarn, A... Light dyed area, B... Dark dyed area, C... Thick fineness area.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Water or an aqueous liquid (hereinafter referred to as liquid) is intermittently attached to a highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn having a birefringence index (Δn) of 15 to 80×10 ^-3 along its longitudinal direction, Next, the yarn is heat-shrinked with a relaxation rate of 20% or more, and then subjected to continuous stretching and false twisting, so that the part to which the liquid is attached along the longitudinal direction of the yarn becomes a light dyed part, The part to which the liquid is not attached is defined as a darkly dyed part, and thickness irregularities are formed in the darkly dyed part to form short light dyed parts in the single filament of the darkly dyed part. A manufacturing method for special polyester processed yarn.