JPH0225888B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to an agent for diluting a permanent waving agent based on a reducing substance for hair keratin, and a method for applying this agent to the permanent waving of human hair, each of which has different properties. As is well known, human keratin is a high molecular weight protein containing a large amount of cystine. Hydrogen bridges, salt bonds, and numerous disulfide bridges give the keratin macromolecules a very high strength. The principle of permanent waving is to reduce the strength of the hair by reducing and cutting the most resistant disulfide bridges, and then to reconnect the sulfur bridges by oxidation, thereby strengthening the hair. It is fixed in a desired form. While the first step is carried out with an alkaline perming solution, usually based on thioglycols, in the second step an oxidizing agent is used as a so-called fixative. As described above, several types of chemicals are used to permanently wave human hair. In particular, the hair is first moistened with a perming solution, for example an 8% solution of thioglycolammonium with a pH of 9.5, and then wound into curlers. This eliminates the need for most of the perm solution to come into contact with the scalp. In the early days, it was common to heat curlers to high temperatures of up to 100 degrees Celsius (hot perm), but this is not only painful, but it also carries the risk of burns, so today high temperatures are no longer allowed. Not done. Instead, the method used today is to cover the hair with a plastic cap and apply a perm solution at room temperature (cold perm). In rare cases, it may be lightly heated using a food dryer to accelerate the reaction.
Once the required working time of 5 to 20 minutes has elapsed, the perming solution is washed off and a fixative, for example a 0.6% solution of hydrogen peroxide with a pH of 5, is applied onto the hair still wound on the curlers. After about 5 to 10 minutes, the curlers are removed, followed by further oxidizing treatment if necessary, cleaning, and setting. Therefore, in order to obtain permanent waves with a stable shape, it is important to effectively change the structure of hair keratin. The behavior and especially the degree of structural changes in the hair are strongly influenced by water, reducing agent and heat as well as the duration of action. Processing agents for cold perms that are processed at room temperature are:
In order for the reducing agent to work effectively, the reducing agent must be contained at a fairly high concentration, and in some cases, the pH may be high.
Show value. As a result, if the processing agent acts on the hair for longer than a predetermined period of time, the ends of the hair may curl too much or become abnormally deformed. Eventually, the hair will develop uneven curls throughout its length. Conventional cold perm solutions contain eg thioglycolic acid in salt form as a waving agent. This solution is too strong for damaged hair, and depending on the purity of thioglycolic acid or its salt and its concentration in the cold perm solution, it may discolor the hair, make it tattered, cause hair loss, or cause hair loss. It has the disadvantage of causing fluff. Furthermore, it is well known that this liquid can cause damage to the scalp, for example by causing eczema or inflammation, if the scalp is sensitive or if it is not used properly. Various proposals have been made to eliminate these difficulties. Since the structure of human hair differs from person to person, perming agents must be individually adjusted to suit the hair of the target. In contrast, today's conventional perming agents are offered in up to four categories for convenience: tough hair, normal hair, dyed hair, and blonde hair. ing. However, this cannot deal with these intermediate hairs. Nevertheless, it is being considered to further reduce the variety of processing agents, and for this purpose dilution with water has been introduced. However, it is well known that human hair that has been pre-treated - for example with blondening agents - reacts very sensitively to other hairdressing treatments.
Therefore, this must be taken into consideration when performing permanent wave processing. Conventionally, hair in this condition has been treated using a perm solution containing a waving agent lower than that for normal hair and having a lower pH value. However, in reality, the properties of hair vary, and it is impossible to prepare perm solutions that suit each type of hair. The reality is that it is outperforming. Additionally, porous hair has similarly been treated using a perm solution diluted to twice its volume with water. Although the amount of thioglycolic acid and free alkali is relatively reduced by such treatment, the PH value remains the same as the PH value of the perm solution before dilution. If a treatment agent treated in this way is used, the perming ability will certainly decrease in proportion to the dilution, but at the same time, the content of hair treatment agents or hair protection agents will also unexpectedly decrease. This ultimately has a detrimental effect on the hair. That is, the hair processing agent for blonded hair prepared by such a method contains only a very small amount of a hair treatment agent or a hair protection agent, and the pH value remains high. However, such a high pH value is truly disadvantageous for blonde hair, which is highly soluble in alkali. Attempts have been made to overcome this drawback by using special solutions instead of water as diluents. For example, US Pat. No. 3,025,218 proposes the use of a special acidic aqueous solution as a diluent. Furthermore, German Patent Application No. 1617848 discloses that a perm solution containing thioglycolic acid is used with additives containing a small amount of thioglycolate, ammonia, or monoethanolamine, and ammonium dihydrogen phosphate. It is stated that it must be diluted to a certain proportion. However, even if the above-mentioned perming solution serves for certain improvements, it is completely worthless for the purpose described here and cannot meet the requirements. It seems reasonable to interpret this because at that time there was no consideration of the effects of hair treatment agents or hair protection agents. Therefore, the present invention was started with the object of providing a diluent for a permanent wave processing agent that can eliminate the above-mentioned drawbacks and a method for applying the diluent. This task consists of a diluent for a permanent waving agent based on a reducing substance for hair keratin containing a combination of cationically activated cellulose, one or more cationic surfactants, and one or more amino acids. The problem is solved by providing a diluent characterized by the following. By using the diluent according to the present invention, it is possible to easily prepare a perm solution that perfectly suits the hair to be treated. As a result, various perm solutions with different strengths of action can be prepared. The present invention targets a perm solution containing a hair keratin-reducing substance, the PH value of which is adjusted to suit hair in a normal state, and combines this with a multiple solution according to the present invention. It is based on that. And, the composite solution according to the present invention can be instantly created by mixing with a perm solution.
A diluent solution that can create a cold perm solution with effects that exactly match the properties of the hair to be treated. Unlike conventional methods, there is no reduction in the content of hair protectant additives in this case. This is of great value, especially for pretreated hair, since in this case the concentration of hair-protecting components is significantly increased by the addition of the drug. This superior effect of the diluent according to the invention is particularly pronounced when the amounts of the components contained in the diluent are within a certain range. In other words, the content of cationically activated cellulose is
It has been found that a content of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight is particularly good. Suitable cationically activated celluloses include, in particular, the cationically activated cellulose ethers described in US Pat. No. 3,472,840 and represented by the following general formula (). (Here, Rcell represents anhydroglucose unit,
Y represents an integer from 50 to 20,000, and each R represents a substituent represented by the following general formula (). ) (Here, m represents an integer of 0 to 10, n represents an integer of 0 to 3, and p represents an integer of 0 to 10. As the cellulose ether represented by the above general formula, it is particularly known under the trade name Polymer JR400. (Union Carbide Co., Ltd.'s products can be used.) The cationic surfactant, which is a constituent part of the diluent according to the present invention, is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight. Suitable surfactants in this series include, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride-homopolymer from Matsuku, known under the trade name Mark Auto 100; and the 75% quaternized dimethylammonium-methacrylate homopolymer from Roehme, sold, for example, under the name Plex 7525. The diluent according to the invention contains as a third important component one or more amino acids as buffering agents, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight. In particular, amino acids that can be applied in the present invention include dL methionine, dL-alanine, L-aspartic acid, L-
-Glutamic acid, glycine, cysteine, histidine, isoleucine, creatinine, proline,
Includes serine and valine. However, the invention is not limited to these amino acids. In addition to the diluent according to the invention, commonly used cosmetic additives such as emulsifiers, dyes,
It may contain pigments, perfume oils, and the like. Generally used permanent waving agents based on hair keratin-reducing substances can be adjusted to suit the condition of the hair to be treated by adding the diluent according to the present invention. . In that case, the permanent waving agent is preferably a salt or derivative of thioglycolic acid, such as ammonium thioglycolate, ammonium lactate, and glycerol monothioglycolate, or cysteine, and also certain sulfites, preferably subsulfites. Contains ammonium sulfate. The diluent according to the invention is suitable for use in such known permanent waving agents whose waving and alkalizing agents are specifically formulated with the aim of treating healthy, strong hair and treating damaged, pore-treated hair. It is used to dilute permanent waving agents that can damage hair that has a lot of moisture or is sensitive. Commonly used permanent waving agents are weakly acidic, neutral to alkaline. In particular, it exhibits a pH of 5 to 10, and can be adjusted using ammonia, monoethanolamine, ammonium carbonate,
and/or ammonium bicarbonate. Commonly used permanent waving agents contain other additives such as emulsifiers, wetting agents, hair conditioning agents, dyes, and the like. These additives are added depending on the purpose of use, and to an extent that does not substantially impair the action of the waving agent. Emulsifiers include, for example, nonionic surfactants such as polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, ethoxylated alkyl phenols, and polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, and alkyl phosphates. Anionic surfactants such as and amphoteric surfactants are used. Glycol, glycerin, sorbitol, polyvinyl alcohol, etc. can be used as hair conditioning agents. Typical commercially available permanent waving agents commonly used show superior performance when diluted with the diluent according to the present invention.
These processing agents include, for example, 6.0 to 14.0% by weight of ammonium thioglycolate and ammonia.
0.8 to 3.0% by weight and/or 4.0 to 15.0% by weight of ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium bicarbonate. The pH value of these permanent wave finishing agents is 7.4 to 9.6. The method of applying the present invention to permanent wave processing is as follows. That is, first, an appropriate amount of diluent is mixed into a permanent waving agent based on a hair keratin-reducing substance, depending on the properties of the hair to be treated. The resulting preparation is then applied to the hair before and after winding the hair into curlers. After a sufficient working time, usually about 10 to 30 minutes, the permanent waving agent is washed off with water, if necessary, and then fixed with an oxidizing agent according to known methods. The oxidizing agent has the function of neutralizing the excess permanent wave processing agent and the function of making the hair that has been softened by the processing agent hard again. In the present invention, the oxidizing agent used is not limited. Any conventionally used oxidizing agent can be used as appropriate. Commonly available oxidizing agents such as potassium bromate, sodium bromate, sodium perborate, hydrogen peroxide, and urea peroxide are used. The concentration of oxidizing agent is variable depending on curing conditions as well as temperature and time. Under normal conditions, oxidizing agents are used in concentrations of about 0.5 to 10.0% by weight. Oxidizing agents can be used together with other known additives. The curler is then removed and the hair is optionally further post-treated with an oxidizing agent, rinsed and finished according to conventional methods. Next, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples. Example component 1 General permanent waving agent 50% aqueous solution of ammonium thioglycolate
24.0 g Ammonium carbonate 5.0 g Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 2.0 g Perfume oil 0.5 g 1.4-nonylphenol having 10 oxyethylated ethylene oxide groups 0.6 g Water 67.9 g 100.0 g The pH value of this solution is 9.0. Component 2 Diluent according to the invention Cationically activated cellulose (polymer JR400 from Union Carbide) 0.5g Diallyldimethylammonium homopolymer (Mark Auto 100 from Matsuku) 2.0g dL-methionine 0.5g dL-alanine 0.5g L -Aspartic acid 0.5 g L-glutamic acid 1.0 g 1.4-nonylphenol with 10 oxyethylated ethylene oxide groups 0.5 g Perfume oil 0.4 g Water 94.1 g 100.0 g The pH value of this liquid is 2.0. Depending on the diagnosis of hair properties by an expert and the desired degree of waving, the above-mentioned two components are mixed as appropriate to prepare a liquid mixture. The mixing ratio of component 1 and component 2 of the perm solution prepared for ordinary processing is shown in the attached table. With reference to this example, the beautician should decide the amount of perm solution needed depending on the amount of hair to be treated. In other words, the instant permanent wave finishing agent obtained by mixing component 1 and component 2 can be used for 100ml or more, depending on the usage situation.
ml or less can be used. All percentages mentioned in this application represent weight percentages.

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Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A diluent for a permanent waving agent based on a reducing substance for hair keratin, which combines cationically activated cellulose, one or more cationic surfactants, and one or more amino acids. A diluent characterized by containing: 2 Claim 1, characterized in that it contains 0.1 to 3.0% by weight of cationically activated cellulose.
Diluent as described in Section. 3. The diluent according to claim 1 or 2, which contains a total of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight of a cationic surfactant. 4. The diluent according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which contains amino acids in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight. 5. The diluent according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which contains a cationically activated cellulose ether represented by the following general formula () as the cationically activated cellulose. (Here, Rcell is an anhydroglucose unit residue, Y is an integer from 50 to 20,000, and R each individually represents a substituent represented by the following general formula ().) (Here, m represents an integer of 0 to 10, n represents an integer of 0 to 3, and p represents an integer of 0 to 10.) 6 The cationic surfactant is diallyldimethylammonium chloride homopolymer, partially quaternized dimethyl Ethylvinylpyrrolidone-ammonium methacrylate-homopolymer, and 75%
Quaternized dimethylammonium methacrylate
The diluent according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is selected from homopolymers. 7 Amino acids glycine, dL-methionine, dL
-alanine, L-aspartic acid, L-glutamic acid, cysteine, histidine, isoleucine,
7. A diluent according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is selected from creatinine, proline, serine, and valine.