GB2108163A - Diluent for permanent waving preparations and process for the use thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

Diluent for permanent waving preparations, based on hair-keratin reducing compounds, characterized in that it contains a combination of cation-active cellulose at least one cationic non-capillary active substance and at least one amino acid.

Description

SPECIFICATION Diluent for permanent waving preparations and process for the use thereof The invention concerns a medium for diluting permanent waving preparations which are based on a hair keratin reducing compound, as well as a process for the use of the medium for the permanent waving of human hair of variable quality.

It is known that human hair is a high molecular weight protein with a high content of crystein.

The keratin macromolecule obtains its enormous stability by means of hydrogen bonds, salt bonds and numerous disulfide bridges. The principle of permanent waving is, by reduction and cleavage principally of the resistant disulfide bridges, to reduce the strength of the hair, so as then to reform the sulfide bridges by oxidation in order to stabilise the hair in the desired shape. Whilst the first process is carried out with alkaline permanent waving fluids, mostly based on thioglycols, oxidative media are used as the so-called fixing solutions for the second process.

A number of chemicals are used for the permanent waving of human hair. In particular the hair is first wetted with a permanent waving liquid, for example an 8% ammonium thioglycolate solution of pH 9.5, and then rolled onto curlers, so that as a rule the permanent waving liquid scarcely comes into contact with the scalp. While it was in general previously usual to heat the curlers up to almost 1 00 C (Hot waving), high temperatures are nowadays avoided because they are uncomfortable and are accompanied by the danger of burning. Instead, the permanent waving liquid is permitted to act at room temperature (cold waving) under a cover (plastic hood).

In order to accelerate the process a drying hood is however used with gentle heating. After the end of the required time of operation of about five to twenty minutes the permanent waving liquid is rinsed out and the fixing solution, for example a 0.6% hydrogen peroxide solution of pH5, is applied to the curled hair After about five to ten minutes the curlers are removed, the hair is if desired once again oxidatively treated, rinsed and styled.

A stable permanent wave thus unavoidably requires a drastic structural change in the hair keratin. The presence of water, reductive medium and heat in connection with the variable length of action are decisive for the type and above all for the degree of structural change to the hair. The cold-waving preparation, which is provided for the production of permanent waving at room temperature, contains the reductive media in a relatively high concentration and possesses in particular cases a high pH value, so as to permit the reductive medium to become effective.

Thus if allowed to act on hair for an excessively long time, the preparation causes excessive curling or shaping of the hair at the hair ends, which is coupled with an uneven waving over the whole length of the hair.

A conventional cold waving fluid contains for example thioglycolic acid in salt form as the active waving ingredient. This fluid has the disadvantage that it acts too strongly on alreadydamaged hair and, independently of the purety of the thioglycolic acid or its salts any of the concentration used in the cold waving solution, can result in stained, torn, falling or splitting hair. It is also known that it can cause damage to the skin, for example scalp rash and inflammation, if the scalp is particularly sensitive of if incorrectly used.

Various proposals have been made in order to overcome these difficulties. Because the hair structure of human beings differs between individuals, a specific adjustment of the permanent waving medium is required according to the hair quality concerned. For reasons of simplicity the permanent waving preparations which are common nowadays are offered at the most in four different strengths, ie for strong normal, dyed and bleached hair, without however having the possibility for the required intermediate strengths. Attempts have even be made to reduce still further the number of types of preparation and thus dilution with water is recommended.

It is also however known that previously-treated human hair (for example with a bleaching agent) is sensitive to further cosmetic treatment, so that this situation must also be sufficiently taken in to account when permanent waving. Therefore, hair of this quality used to be treated with a waving fluid, the content of which in active ingredients was lower than for normal hair, and which displayed a lower pH value. However it is not possible in practice to take acount of widely differing hair characteristics, and to have available for each hair quality a suitable waving fluid, but rather adjustment of the waving fluid by dilution with water was resorted to, so that it was thus still tolerated by the hair in question. Even porous hair could be treated, for example with a waving fluid after dilution thereof to twice its original volume with water.Although the proportion of thioglycolic acid and free alkali could be reduced by this procedure, the pH value corresponded to that of the undiluted waving fluid. Furthermore, in that with the preparation diluted in this way the proportional reduction in waving effectiveness was accompanied by an undesired reduction in the content of hair care and hair protective materials, this has a disadvantageous effect on the hair. In this manner the diluted solution to be used for bleached hair would contain the least of all hair care and hair protective materials and additionally retain the high pH value, which because of its high alkalinity, is not desired for bleached hair.

There has been no shortage of attempts to overcome these disadvantages by using special solutions instead of water as the diluent. Thus, according to a suggestion in US-PS 3025 218 a special solution in the form of an acidic-aqueous solution can be used as a diluent. From German early published specification 1 61 7848 it is known to dilute the thioglycolic acidcontaining waving solution with an additive, which contains a small amount of thioglycolate, ammonia or monoethonolamine and ammonium dihydrogenphosphate, in particular proportions.

Although certain improvements have already been obtainable with these waving solutions, these have however not proved effective in practice, and have not met the requirements which have been imposed. One explanation for this could be that at that time the influence of effective hair care and hair protective media as well as buffering agents had not yet been taken into account.

The task of invention is to make available a diluent for permanent waving preparations as well as a process for use thereof which avoids the previously outlined disadvantages.

The object is accomplished by means of a diluent for permanent waving preparations, which are based on hair keratin reducing compounds, characterised in that it contains a combination of cation active cellulose, at least one cationic non-capillary active substance, and at least one amino acid. The medium according to the invention makes it possible to manufacture waving fluids in a simple manner, the properties of which can be exactly tailored to the hair to be treated. In this way a great number of waving fluids of varying strengths can be produced.

The invention is based on the thought of combining a waving fluid containing a hair keratin reducing compound, the pH of which is so arranged that any normal hair can be treated with it, with a solution of the composition according to the invention. The combination is such that, that on mixing the waving solution with the diluent, ready-for-use cold waving media are obtained, the effectiveness of which is exactly suited to the type of hair to be treated. In contrast to the previously altered content of hair care additives, the content of these will not be reduced.

This is particularly significant for hair which has been previously cosmetically treated, because in this case as a result of the additive the care components are present in a particularly high concentration.

These excellent consequences of the invention can thus particularly be obtained, when the diluent contains particular proportions of its ingredients.

Thus a content of 0.1 to 3 weight per cent of the cation active cellulose has proved particularly advantageous. Suitable cation active celluloses which come advantageously into question are cationic cellulose ethers of the type described in US Patent Specification 34272840 of the general formula.

in which Rye,, means the residue of an anhydroglucose unit, Y is a whole number from 50 to 20,000, and each residue R is independently a substituent of the general formula.

in which m is a whole number from 0 to 10, n a whole number from 0 to 3 and p is a whole number from 0 to 1 0. A particularly suitable cellulose ether according to the formula is that known under the trade designation Polymer J R 400 of the Union Carbide Company, New York.

According to the invention a further component of the diluent is a cationic non-capillary active substance preferably in a total quantiy from 0.1 to 5 weight per cent. Suitable representatives of this group of substances are in particular diallyldimethyl ammonium chloridehomopolymer, known under the trade designation Merquat 100 of Merck s Co Inc, Rahway, New Jersey 07065, USA; a partially quarternerised homopolymer of dimethylethylvinylpyrrolidone ammonium-methacrylate, commercially available for example under the designation Gafquat 734 of GAF Corporation, Wayne Street, New Jersey 07065 USA and an up to 75% quarternerised dimethylammoniummethacrylate homopolymer, for example the commercial preparation Plex 75 25 of Rohm GmgH, Darmstadt, Federal German Republic.

As the third essential component, the diluent contains at least one amino acid preferably in total amount from 0.1 to 5 weight per cent, as a buffering agent. As amino acids there come particularly into the scope of the invention d, L-methionine, d, L-alanine, L-aspartic acid, Lgutamic acid, glycine, cystein, histidine, isoleucine, creatanine, proline, serine, and valine, although the invention is not restricted to these amino acids.

The diluent according to the invention can of course further contain conventional cosmetic additives such as for example emulsifyers, colouring materials, pigments and perfume oils.

Conventional permanent waving media, based on hair keratin reducing compounds, which by the addition of the diluent according to the invention can be adapted to the hair characteristics under consideration, contain as active waving ingredients particularly salts or derivatives of thioglycolic acids such as ammonium thioglycolate, ammonium thioacetate and glycerol monothioglycolate and also cystein, as well as particular suphites, preferably ammonium sulphite.

The diluent particularly finds application for the dilution of such known permanent waving media, that with respect to the active waving ingredients and the alkaline acting ingredients are so formulated, that they are capable of shaping strong healthy hair, but however lead to additional damage when applied to damaged, porous, or sensitive hair.

Conventional permanent waving media may act in a weakly acid, neutral or alkaline manner.

They especially have a pH from 5 to 10, of which the adjustment is carried out with ammonia, monoethanolamine, ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium hydrogen carbonate. Further, in conventional permanent waving media which are available, additives are for example emulsifiers, wetting agents, hair conditioning and colouring media, and other substances which are commonly used. Such additional substances are used in such quantities that the activity of the waving materials is not substantially impaired.

Examples of such emulsifiers are non-ionic surface active agents, such as polyoxyethylene sobitan fatty acid ester, ethoxylated alkyphenol and polyoxyethyleneallyl ethers, anionic surfactants, such as allyl ether sulphates and alkyl phosphates as well as also ampholytic surfactants.

Examples of suitable hair conditioning media are glycols, glycerols, sorbitol, polyvinylalcohol, and the like.

Typical common commercial permanent waving media, for the dilution of which the diluent according to the invention is preferably applicable, contain for example 6.0 to 14.0 weight per cent of ammonia thioglycolate, 0.8 to 0.3 weight per cent of ammonia and/or 4.0 to 15.0 weight per cent of ammonium carbonate and/or ammonium hydrogen carbonate. The pH value of these permanent waving media is from 7.4 to 9.6.

According to the process of the invention for the formation of a permanent wave a permanent waving preparation based on a hair keratin reducing compound is mixed in suitable proportions with diluent, depending on the quality of hair to be treated.

The preparation obtained is applied to the hair after this has been curled. After a sufficient time of operation, which is usually about ten to thirty minutes, the hair is if necessary rinsed with water to remove most of the permanent waving medium and finally fixed with an oxidative medium in known manner.

The oxidative medium serves to neutralise an excess of the permanent waving preparation and also to re-harden the hair which has been softened by this preparation. The oxidative media which can be used according to the invention are not particularly restricted, any oxidative medium used up to now can be employed. Examples of such commercially common oxidative media are potassium borate, sodium borate, sodium perborate, hydrogen peroxide and urea peroxide. The concentration of the oxidative medium is variable, dependent on the hardening conditions, such as temperature and time. Normally, the oxidative media will be used in a concentration from about 0.5 to about 10 weight per cent. The oxidative medium can be used together with other known additives.

Finally, the curlers are removed, the hair optionally after-treated with an oxidative medium, rinsed and further treated in known manner.

The following Examples will illustrate the invention.

Example Component 1 Conventional Permanent Waving Medium Aqueous ammonium thioglycolate solution, 50% 24.0 g Ammonium Carbonate 5.0 g Ammonium Hydrogen Carbonate 2.0 g Perfume Oil 0.5 g 1,4 nonylphenol oxyethylated with 10 ethylene oxide groups 0.6 g Water 67.9 g 100.0 g The pH value of the solution is 9.0 Component 2 Diluent According to the Invention Cation active cellulose (Polymer JR 400, Union Carbide, U.S.A.) 0.5 g Diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride-homopolymer 2.0 g (Merquat 100) d, L-methionine 0.5 g d, L-alanine 0.5 g L-aspartic acid 0.5 g L-glutaminic acid 1.0 g 1 ,4-nonylphenol oxyethylated with 10 ethylene oxide groups 0.5 g Perfume Oil 0.4 g Water 94.2 g 100.0 g The pH value of the liquid is 2.0 Based on the critical judgement of the hair by the skilled man and the desired curl strength, a mixture of the two components can be made up as desired.

Mixing proportions of components 1 and 2 for a normal conventional shaping with 100 ml of ready-for-use waving fluid (see table on the following page); Hair Characteristics Cosmetic Comp 1 comp 2 pH Value of ready-for-use waving Pretreatment ml ml medium, (20 C) Strong Untreated 95 5 8.96 Normal to strong Permanent waved 90 10 8.91 Normal Slightly waved 85 15 8.87 Sensitive Permanent waved 80 20 8.83 Thin, porous Slightly waved 75 25 8.78 Normal to strong Dyed 65 35 8.70 Thin, sensitive Dyed 60 40 8.65 Normal Lightened 50 50 8.56 Thin, sensitive Lightened 45 55 8.52 Normal Bleached 30 70 8.39 Very sensitive, porous Bleached 20 80 8.30 In addition to these examples the hairdresser is also in the position, according to the fullness of the hair, himself to determined the required quantity of waving preparation and to use more or less than 100 ml of the ready-for-use permanent waving medium obtained by mixing components 1 and 2.

All the percentages given in the above application represent percentages by weight.

Claims (8)

1. Diluent for permanent waving preparations, based on hair-keratin reducing compounds, characterised in that it contains a combination of cation-active cellulose at least one cationic non-capillary active substance and at least one amino acid.

2. Medium according to claim 1, characterised in that it contains 0.1 to 3.0 weight per cent of cation active cellulose.

3. Medium according to claim 1 and 2, characterised in that it contains the cationic noncapillary active substance in a total quantity of from 0.1 to 5.0 weight per cent.

4. Medium according to claim 1 to 3, characterised in that it contains the amino acids in a total quantity of from 0.1 to 5.0 weight per cent.

5. Medium according to claim 1 to 4, characterised in that it contains as cation active cellulose a cationic cellulose ether of the general formula

wherein Reel, indicates the residue of an anhydroglucose unit, Y a whole number of 50 to 20,000, and each residue R individually a substituent of the general formula:

wherein m is a whole number form 0 to 3 and p a whole number from 0 to 10.

6. Medium according to claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the cationic non-capillary active substance is selected from a homopolymer of diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride, a partially quarternarised homopolymer of dimethylethylvinylpyrrolidone ammonium methacylate, and up to 75% of a quarternarised dimethylammonium methacylate homopolymer.

7. Medium according to claim 1 to 6, characterised in that the amino acid is selected from glycine, d,L-methionine, d,L-alanine, l-aspartic acid, L-glutamic acid, cysteine, histidine, isoleucine, creatinine, proline, serine and valine.

8. Process for the formation of a permanet wave by use of a diluent according to any one of the claims 1 to 7, characterised in that a permanent waving preparation based on a hair keratin reducing compound in accordance with the quality of the hair to be treated, is mixed in suitable proportions with the diluent and the preparation thus obtained is applied to the hair before and/or after curling of the hair, after a sufficient time of action the hair is optionally rinsed with water, finally the hair is fixed in known manner with an oxidative medium, the curlers are removed, the hair is optionally after-treated in a conventional manner.