JPH02251603A - Cloth suitable for core and production thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain cloth suitable for core having improved lightness and softness and hardly generating breaking through of binder by knitting with yarn comprising conjugate fiber composed of plural attached polyester ultrathin fibers and removing binding component with solvent. CONSTITUTION:Plural polyester ultrathin fiber components of <=0.5d fineness are mutually attached with binding component to obtain conjugate fiber having 1.0 to 4.0d fineness. Then, said conjugate fiber or yarn spun from mixture of said conjugate fiber and other fiber (e.g. general polyester fiber of 0.8 to 1.2d fineness) in a mixing ratio of 5:5 to 8:2 is knitted and binding component is dissolved out by treating with solvent, then splitted to afford the aimed cloth.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] Industrial Field of Application The present invention relates to a fabric suitable for interlining and a method for manufacturing the same, and more specifically, to suitably used as interlining for women's blouses, dresses, men's cut shirts, etc. The present invention relates to a new lightweight and soft type fabric that can be used as a fabric, and its manufacturing method.

Traditionally, the characteristics required for interlining materials were generally sewingability, shape retention, aesthetics, etc., but as clothing in general has become more lightweight and soft, the interlining has also become lighter and softer. ization is now required.

Currently, polyester is the main interlining material for lightweight, soft type products for synthetic fiber products, and polyester/polyester for blended products.
Available in cotton, polyester/rayon, and polyester/polynosic. The thickness of the fibers used in these interlining materials is mainly 1.0 to 1.2 d, and the thinner ones are about 0.8 d at most. Also, the thickness of the thread is 6
The most common size is 0, and even the thinnest ones are around 80 or 100.

However, there is a trend toward a higher level of lightness and softness, and to achieve this, it is essential to use thinner fibers and threads. However, the above-mentioned thickness is the limit for the normal spinning and drawing techniques of polyester fiber, which is currently the mainstream material, and the yarn thickness of 80 or 100 is expensive. There is a problem that can occur.

Therefore, in an attempt to make the polyester fibers thinner and softer, an alkali treatment is performed after weaving to reduce the weight by about 10 to 30%. However, although such alkaline weight loss processing methods can improve lightness and softness, they result in a decrease in strength. In addition, there is so-called adhesive interlining, which has adhesive applied to one side.
In this case, due to the weight loss, the gaps between the fibers become wider, making it easier for the adhesive to penetrate to the back side (strike back), which poses a major problem in terms of texture and workability.

Problems to be Solved by the Invention As mentioned above, the requirements for lightness and softness have been raised, and it is suitable for interlining that has further improved lightness and softness and does not cause problems such as adhesive penetration. It is hoped that new fabrics will emerge.

Means for Solving the Problems In view of the above circumstances, the inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive research and have created a knitted fabric using a yarn made of a composite fiber to which a plurality of ultrafine polyester fibers are attached. By eluting the binding components that adhered the real fibers and dividing the composite fibers into individual fiber forms, surprisingly,
The present invention was completed based on the discovery that the light weight and softness are improved, and the adhesive is less likely to penetrate through the adhesive.

That is, the present invention provides composite fibers having a thickness of 1.0 to 4.0 d, which are composed of a plurality of polyester ultrafine fiber components each having a thickness of 0.5 d or less and a binding component that adheres them to each other, or the composite fibers and other fibers. The present invention provides a fabric characterized by knitting and weaving a yarn made by mixing and spinning fibers of the present invention, removing the binding components by solvent treatment, and splitting the composite fibers.

The present invention also provides a method for producing the fabric by weaving and weaving a knitted fabric using the yarn and splitting the composite fiber.

The fabric of the present invention has a thickness of 1.5 mm, which is made by bonding multiple polyester ultrafine fiber components of 0.5 d or less by a bonding component.
Composite fibers of 0 to 4.0 d or yarns spun by mixing them with other fibers are used.

Generally, 2 to 20 polyester ultrafine fiber components, preferably 4 to 10 fibers, are attached to each other to form a composite fiber. The thickness of the ultra-fine fiber component is 0 from the viewpoint of lightness and softness.
．． It should be 5d or less.

Examples of the bonding component used to attach the plurality of polyester microfiber components include adhesives such as cationic dyeable polyester adhesives and styrene adhesives.

Such composite fibers and their manufacturing methods are known, for example,
Japanese Patent Publication No. 47-5445 discloses a production apparatus and describes an example for obtaining ultrafine fibers of polyethylene terephthalate.

For non-inventiveness, composite fibers can be used alone, but
If desired, it may be mixed with general polyester fibers, polynosic fibers, rayon fibers, cotton fibers, etc. having a thickness of 0.8 to 1.2 d, and the mixing ratio of composite fibers: other fibers is 5:5 to 8: About 2 is preferable.

In order to produce the fabric of the present invention, a knitted fabric is created using such yarn at a density of about 45 to 80 x 40 to 70/inch in length and width. If the density is too high, the desired lightness and softness cannot be achieved; if the density is too low, although the density is soft, the adhesive may penetrate through the material, causing problems during sewing.

Next, in accordance with a conventional method, after desizing and heat setting are performed, a solvent treatment is performed. The solvent used in the solvent treatment is one suitable for eluting and removing binding components that have fixed a plurality of fibers; for example, in the case of a cationic dyeable polyester adhesive, an alkaline solution is used. When caustic soda, for example, is used as the alkali, the treatment is usually carried out at a concentration of 1 to 5%.

By solvent treatment such as alkali treatment, the binding components that adhered to the plurality of fibers are eluted, and each ultrafine fiber component is separated and divided. After splitting, the composite fiber becomes a single fiber of 0.5 d or less.

As is clear from the above, the term "splitting" used herein refers to dividing the composite fiber into the form of each ultrafine fiber component, and the term "binding component" refers to
It has the function of attaching multiple ultra-fine fibers,
A component that can be dissolved in an appropriate solvent after weaving.

After the solvent treatment, post-treatment is performed. For example, in the case of alkaline treatment, the solvent treatment is followed by neutralization and water washing.

Next, the fabric of the present invention is obtained by dyeing, drying, and softening treatment according to a conventional method.

The present invention also provides an interlining made by coating one side of the fabric with an adhesive, and a method for manufacturing the interlining.

Such adhesives may be those used for ordinary adhesive interlinings, and include, for example, polyamide adhesives, EVA adhesives, lyester adhesives, and the like.

When bonding, avoid applying the adhesive to the entire surface in order to maintain its light weight and softness.For example, use a dot type, scatter type (sinter type), etc., using an engraving roll, screen roll, etc. to apply the adhesive. (For example, see Japanese Patent Publication No. 56-55206).

Thus, the resulting fabric suitable for the interlining of the present invention is less prone to adhesive penetration. For example, pressing cloth/fabric/
Adhesive/outer material composition, temperature 140°C, pressure 250°C
After pressing under conditions of 15 seconds to force the adhesive to pass through, the interfacial peel strength on the non-adhesive side was measured and evaluated based on its magnitude. In the case of a soft type of interlining, it is lO~20gf/inch. -On the other hand, in the fabric suitable for the interlining of the present invention, it is 3~6gf/inch, which means that the adhesive is less likely to come off than conventional products. Fabrics suitable for the interlining of the present invention are unlikely to exhibit adhesive penetration under normal conditions of use.

Further, the fabric suitable for the interlining of the present invention has excellent softness. For example, when evaluating the bending hardness (characteristic value B) and shear hardness (characteristic value G) using a KES testing machine as a measure of the softness of the texture, the conventional type of interlining with a soft texture shows that B value is 0°006~0.008g-c is 7c
m, G value is 0.30~0, 35 g/c11+-d
It is eg. On the other hand, the fabric of the present invention has a B value of 0.
．． 003~0.004g-cm"7cm, G value is O-
It is 20 to O-25 g/cm-deg, and is considerably softer than conventional products.

Furthermore, the fabric suitable for the interlining of the present invention can be made lighter than conventional products because adhesive penetration is less likely to occur.

As described above, the fabric of the present invention, which is lightweight and soft and has no adhesive penetration, can be used for collars, cuffs, plackets, lapels, etc. of women's blouses, dresses, shirts, jackets, men's shirts, etc. It can be suitably used not only as an adhesive interlining or non-adhesive interlining, but also for outer materials and other industrial materials.

Operation The fabric suitable for the interlining of the present invention consists of ultra-fine polyester fibers which are considerably thinner than those of the prior art. By adopting such an ultra-thin configuration, improvements in softness and weight reduction can be achieved.

In addition, adhesive penetration is less likely to occur in the fabric suitable for the interlining of the present invention, but the detailed mechanism of action of this phenomenon is not clear at present. Presumably, even without special treatment such as raising, an appropriate amount of fuzz is generated during the normal manufacturing process after fiber splitting, and as a result, adhesive penetration is reduced.

The present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples below.

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate (
PET) fibers and 2.0d composite fibers consisting of cation-soluble polyester as a dissolved component and general polyester fibers (0.8d type).

These were blended at a ratio of 7:3 to obtain a 45-count spun yarn.

Using this yarn, weaving was carried out at a weaving density of 70 x 54/inch (vertical x horizontal) to obtain a fabric.

This fabric was desized in a conventional manner and heat set at 200° C. for 30 seconds. Next, using a beam dyeing machine,
Fiber splitting was performed in a caustic soda bath with a concentration of 20 g/+2 at a bath ratio of 1:30 at 95° C. for 60 minutes.

After alkali treatment, the concentration is 1cc/Q using a beam dyeing machine.
The fabric was neutralized with an aqueous acetic acid solution, washed with water, dyed in a conventional manner, dried, and softened using a polyester fabric softener. Next, a dot-type adhesive process was performed on one side using a polyamide adhesive to obtain an interlining of the present invention.

The resulting interlining was measured for adhesive penetration and texture.

To ensure that the adhesive penetrates through, apply a cloth to the back of the interlining when adhering it to the outer material, and press it at a temperature of 14 degrees using a flat plate press.
Pressing was carried out under the conditions of 0'o, pressure of 250 g/cm2, and time of 15 seconds. After pressing, the peel strength between the non-adhesive side of the interlining and the patch side was measured and was within the range of 3 to 6 gf/inch.

In addition, regarding the texture, KES manufactured by Kadochik Co., Ltd.
When the bending hardness B value and shear hardness G value were measured using a testing machine, the B value was 0.003 to 0.004 ram"
/ cmSG value was within the range of 0.20 to 0.25 g/cm·deg.

Effects of the Invention According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a fabric suitable for interlining, which has significantly improved lightness and softness, and prevents adhesive penetration.

Claims (6)

[Claims] (1) Composite fiber with a thickness of 1.0 to 4.0 d consisting of multiple polyester microfiber components with a thickness of 0.5 d or less and a bonding component that attaches them to each other, or the composite fiber and other fibers. A fabric characterized in that it is knitted and woven using mixed and spun yarns, the binding components are removed by solvent treatment, and the composite fibers are split. (2) The fabric according to claim (1), which is used for interlining. (3) Composite fibers with a thickness of 1.0 to 4.0 d consisting of multiple polyester microfiber components with a thickness of 0.5 d or less and a binding component that attaches them to each other, or the composite fibers and other fibers. An interlining characterized by comprising a fabric knitted and woven with mixed and spun yarns, the binding components removed by solvent treatment, and the composite fibers split, and an adhesive applied to one side of the fabric. (4) Composite fibers with a thickness of 1.0 to 4.0 d consisting of multiple polyester microfiber components with a thickness of 0.5 d or less and a bonding component that attaches them to each other, or the composite fibers and other fibers. 1. A method for manufacturing a fabric, which comprises weaving and weaving a knitted fabric using mixed and spun yarns, and then eluting the binding components by solvent treatment and splitting the composite fibers. (5) The method according to claim (4), wherein the fabric is used for interlining. (6) Composite fiber with a thickness of 1.0 to 4.0 d consisting of multiple polyester ultrafine fiber components with a thickness of 0.5 d or less and a binding component that attaches them to each other, or the composite fiber with other fibers A knitted fabric is knitted and woven using yarns spun by mixing the above, the binding component is eluted by solvent treatment, the composite fiber is split, and an adhesive is then applied to one side of the knitted fabric. Interlining manufacturing method.