JPH02154081A - Dyed mixed fabric product of texture polyester yarn and wool and production thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To sufficiently dye a product with a good hand to the same color in a high density by one-bath dyeing of a disperse and acid dyes without impairing wool by mixing a textured polyester yarn, having a specific composition, dyeable under ordinary pressure and capable of exhibiting specified physical properties and dyeability with wool. CONSTITUTION:A textured polyester yarn which is a polyester dyeable under ordinary pressure prepared by copolymerizing 6-10wt.% polyethylene glycol having 500-4,000 average molecular weight therein and has 3-6g/d strength, 10-40% stretch recovery ratio, <=17% black color lightness in dyeing thereof at 98 deg.C and >=5 times dyeability thereof based on that of wool with a disperse dye is mixed with the wool to provide a fabric, which is then dyed in the same bath of the disperse dye and an acid dye at <=98 deg.C without using a carrier to dye both sides to the same color in a high density with excellent dyeing color fastness.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Field of Application] The present invention relates to a dyed product of a mixed fabric of processed polyester yarn and wool, and a method for producing the same. More specifically, by mixing atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester, we can maximize the natural texture and physical properties of wool without damaging the wool, and combine polyester processed yarn with the functionality of polyester. This invention relates to a dyed product of mixed fabric and its manufacturing method.

[Conventional technology] Fabrics made only of wool can be dyed under normal pressure, have good dyeability, and have excellent texture and color, but on the other hand, they have bulkiness and
In addition to poor yarn strength, it lacks functionality such as wash-and-wear properties, pleatability, fine tailoring, yellowing, insect repellency, and mold resistance.

For this reason, polyester, which has excellent functionality that wool lacks, is used in combination to compensate for these deficiencies.

Although polyester can compensate for the disadvantages of wool, polyester is difficult to dye, so if it is dyed under the same conditions as wool, the color will be lighter and the color will not be the same as wool. On the other hand, the dyeing temperature of normal polyester is 130~
When dyeing at 135°C, the same color as wool can be obtained, but the texture of the wool is impaired, the coloration is large, and the strength and strength are reduced.
Elongation is significantly reduced.

Therefore, while finding a compromise between the same color of polyester with wool and the texture, strength, and elongation of the wool to be mixed, we decided to try to find a compromise between polyester and wool.
The current situation is that dyed products made from fabrics mixed with cool are being produced.

In order to solve this problem, the following atmospheric pressure dyeable polyesters have been proposed.

5 mol% (8% by weight) of sodium sulfoisophthalate
The above copolymerized cationic dye-dyable polyesters are described in, for example, JP-A No. 61-34022. JP-A-60-246
847, JP-A-60-1.73185, JP-A-60
-88190 etc., respectively.

Also, easily dyeable polyester fibers whose internal fiber structure has been changed by high speed spinning of 5,000 to 8,000 m/min are disclosed, for example, in JP-A-59-59911. It is disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 58-13739.

Furthermore, easily dyeable polyester fibers copolymerized with aromatic dicarboxylic acids, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, or aliphatic diols are available, for example, in JP-A-51130320 and JP-A-57.
-30169 etc.

[Problems to be solved by the invention] However, although cationic dye-dyeable polyester copolymerized with sodium sulfoisophthalic acid has improved dyeability, it has low yarn strength, poor elasticity recovery, bulkiness, and stretchability. lack of texture, no sense of fullness, poor heat resistance, bulk processing cannot be practically applied, poor chemical resistance, poor light fastness of cationic dyes1, contamination of cationic dye dyeing machines There are problems such as large size.

In addition, although the easily dyeable polyester fiber produced by high-speed spinning is a polyester fiber that is easier to dye than conventional polyester fiber, it cannot be said that it is completely dyeable under normal pressure.
A dyeing temperature of 11.0 to 120°C is required to dye a deep color, lacks dimensional stability due to the low shrinkage rate of the yarn, lacks a tight texture, and tends to cause misalignment defects.
There are problems such as difficulty in spinning fine-grained yarn, inability to perform temporary twisting at the same time as drawing, and the need for excessively large spinning equipment.

Easy-to-dye polyester fibers copolymerized with aromatic dicarboxylic acids, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, or aliphatic diols are
Although it is getting closer to becoming dyeable under normal pressure, there are many problems.

For example, polyester copolymerized with aliphatic dicarboxylic acids such as adipic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, etc. has low heat resistance, significantly reduces textured yarn stretch recovery and light fastness, and has large seedling discoloration. There is a problem. Among aliphatic diols, polyesters copolymerized with butanediol, neopentyl gelcol, cyclohexane dimetatool, polytetramethylene glycol, etc., isophthalic acid, 1,2-bis(pheno,xy)ethane-44
For polyesters copolymerized with aromatic dicarboxylic acids such as dicarboxylic acids, the copolymerization ratio must be 15% by weight or more in order to be dyeable under normal pressure. There are problems such as a decrease in recovery performance, light resistance, discoloration of seedlings, and poor spinning properties. In this regard, among aliphatic diols, polyester copolymerized with polyethylene glycol can be dyed under normal pressure even if the copolymerization rate is low, but there was a problem with color matching when mixed with wool. .

In view of the shortcomings in the prior art, the present inventors have made extensive studies on processed polyester yarns mixed with wool. By dyeing a fabric made by mixing polyester processed yarns with a specific composition with wool, the inventors have found that the same color property can be improved We have discovered that this can be significantly improved, and have arrived at the present invention.

That is, an object of the present invention is to provide a dyed fabric made of a mixed fabric of polyester processed yarn and wool that has excellent color constancy, and a method for producing the same.

[Means for Solving the Problems] In order to achieve the above object, the dyed mixed fabric product of processed polyester yarn and wool of the present invention has the following configuration. That is, in the mixed fabric dyed product of polyester processed yarn and wool, the polyester is an atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester copolymerized with 6.0 to 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 500 to 4000, and the strength of the polyester processed yarn is is 3.0 to 6.0 g/d, stretch recovery rate is 16 to 40
%, the black lightness (hereinafter referred to as L98) when dyeing polyester processed yarn at 98°C is 17% or less, and the difference between L98 and black lightness when dyed at 130°C (hereinafter referred to as Li2O) is 1.0% or less. , a mixed fabric dyed product of processed polyester yarn and wool, characterized in that the degree of dyeing of the processed polyester yarn with a disperse dye is five times or more the degree of dyeing of the processed polyester yarn with a disperse dye.

Further, the method for producing a mixed fabric dyed product of processed polyester yarn and wool according to the present invention has the following configuration in order to achieve the above object. That is, average molecular weight 500-400
6.0% polyethylene glycol to polymer weight.
After relaxing and scouring a mixed fabric of 0 to 10% by weight copolymerized pressure-dyeable polyester yarn and wool, 98%
This is a method for producing a mixed fabric dyed product of processed polyester yarn and wool, which is characterized by dyeing with a disperse dye and an acid dye without using a carrier at a temperature of 0.degree. C. or lower.

The atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester used in the present invention has an average molecular weight of 500 to 4000 and a polyethylene glycol of 6.0 to 1
It must be copolymerized at 0% by weight. If the average molecular weight is less than 500, a part of the polyethylene glycol added during polyester polymerization will scatter under the high temperature and reduced pressure reaction conditions, and the copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol into the polyester will not be constant. This may cause variations in physical properties such as strength and elongation, shrinkage rate, etc. of the polyester yarn, and uneven dyeing may occur during dyeing, resulting in defects in the final product. In addition, in order to copolymerize polyethylene glycol with a low molecular weight of less than 500 to improve dyeability,
It is necessary to considerably increase the number of moles of copolymerization compared to those with high molecular weight, which lowers the softening point of the obtained polyester and lowers the quality of the final product.

On the other hand, when polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight exceeding 4,000 is used, the amount of high molecular weight substances that are not copolymerized increases in the polyester, which not only reduces the dyeability but also causes the dye to bleed when the fabric is heat-treated after dyeing. This causes various reductions in color fastness, such as bleed-out and a reduction in light fastness, especially fading fastness.

Further, if the copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol is less than 6.0% by weight, dyeability is insufficient and normal pressure dyeability cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if it exceeds 10% by weight, even if the dyeability is sufficient, physical properties such as textured yarn stretchability, light fastness, alkali resistance, etc. will deteriorate, and the quality of the final product will deteriorate.

In addition, since polyethylene glycol is copolymerized with polyester, there is a tendency for the oxidative decomposition resistance to be lower than that of ordinary polyester, so it is preferable to blend an antioxidant into the polyester to improve this. It will be done.

Preferred antioxidants include, for example, hindered phenol compounds which are phenol derivatives having sterically hindered substituents adjacent to the phenolic hydroxyl group. Representative examples of hindered phenol compounds include 1,3,5-trimethyl-2,4,61-(3,5-1erfbutylphenol), 2,6-di-t
ertbutyl-p-cresol, 2,2-methylbis(
4-ethyl-f)iertbutylphenol)triethyleneglycol-bis[3-(3-1crtbutyl5-methyl4-hydroxyphenyl)propione-)]
, 1,6-hexanethiol bis(3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate, pentaerythritol-tetrakis[3-(3°5-di-tert!butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate , octadecyl-3-(3,5-te
rl Butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl) propionate, 35-di-18 "1-butyl-4-hydroxy-penzylphosphonate diethyl ester, 1.3.5-
Trimethyl-2,46-tris (3,5-dierl)
Examples include butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)benzene.

When blending a hindered phenol compound into polyester, the blending amount is 0.05-1.
0% by weight is preferred.

The pressure-dyeable polyester used in the present invention may be copolymerized with other copolymer components or blended with other polymers, as necessary, within the scope of achieving the object of the present invention. For example, a small proportion of a chain branching agent such as pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, trimellitic acid, or boric acid may be copolymerized.

In addition, arbitrary additives such as matting agents such as titanium oxide, ultraviolet absorbers, flame retardants, pigments, etc. may be included as necessary.

The polyester processed yarn used in the present invention has a strength of 3.0 to
Must be 6.0 g/d. Strength is 3.0god
If it is less than that, problems will occur during yarn processing such as twisting and entangling.
Moreover, the durability of the fabric becomes poor. - side, 6.0g/d
It is generally difficult to obtain polyester textured yarns exceeding .

The polyester processed yarn used in the present invention has a stretch recovery rate of 1
Must be between 6 and 40%. When the stretch recovery rate is less than 16%, the bulkiness is poor, the texture is flat, and the stretch and bulk properties are insufficient.

On the other hand, if the stretch recovery rate exceeds 40%, the wool will have a fluffy texture and the original texture of the wool to be mixed cannot be fully utilized.

The polyester processed yarn used in the present invention must have an L9g of 17% or less. L9g
If it exceeds 17%, the color development when dyeing at 98° C. is insufficient.

The polyester processed yarn used in the present invention is L9g and Li2
The difference from O must be 1.0% or less.

If the difference between L98 and Li2O exceeds 1.0%, the color development during dyeing at 98° C. is insufficient compared to the color development during dyeing at 130° C., and perfect normal pressure dyeability cannot be obtained.

In the present invention, as described above, L98 and Li2O refer to the black lightness when dyeing at 98°C and the black lightness when dyeing at 130°C, respectively, and refer to the values measured by the following method.

<Method for measuring L98 and Li2O> A sock knitted fabric (-mouthpiece knitted fabric) was knitted from processed polyester filament yarn, and then heated to 98°C by a conventional method using Sandett G-29 (manufactured by Sanyo Kasei ■) as a scouring agent. After scouring under boiling for 20 minutes, air-drying, and drying in a free state at 180° C. for 3 minutes, dyeing, washing with water, reduction washing, washing with water, and air-drying under the conditions described below.

Next, the lightness of the black color is measured as an L value (%) using a multi-light source spectrophotometer MSC-2 model (Suga Test Instruments Co., Ltd.).

The black lightness (L value) when the dyeing temperature is 98°C is L98.
The black lightness (L value) when the dyeing temperature is 130°C is Li2
Let it be O.

Staining conditions: (a) Dye: Dianix Black BG-FS
(200% product, manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei ■) Dyeing concentration 2 7% owf Dyeing aid: Nikka Sunsolt 111200 (manufactured by NICCA Chemical ■) Dyeing aid concentration: 0.5 g / Dyeing bath PH: 6 Dyeing bath ratio: 1/30 (b) Water washing (c) Reduction cleaning Cleaning agent: Hydrosulfite 2g/l caustic soda
2g/l Sundead G-291g/ (manufactured by Sanyo Chemical) Cleaning agent concentration Washing temperature 9 hours: 80°C 12O Bath ratio: 1/30 (d) Washing with water, air drying Dyeing of polyester processed yarn used in the present invention with disperse dyes The ratio between the degree of wear and the degree of dyeing of wool with disperse dyes must be 5 or more. If this ratio is less than 5, dyeing contamination of disperse dyes on wool will increase, and when wool is dyed with acid dyes, it will not be possible to obtain the same color property with polyester, and dyeing fastness will decrease due to wool contamination. There are problems such as. On the other hand, it is generally difficult to increase this ratio to 5 or more.

When a polyester/wool blend is dyed with carrier dyeing under normal pressure, the exhaustion of the polyester disperse dye is low, so dyeing stains on the wool are relatively large. Since the pressure-dyeable polyester used in the present invention has extremely high exhaustion of disperse dyes, dyeing stains on wool are small, so there is no problem. Such dyeing behavior is shown in FIG.

FIG. 1 shows the relationship between dyeing temperature and degree of dyeing when pressure-dyeable polyester and wool used in the present invention are dyed in the same bath with a disperse dye. In the figure, A, a, B.

B is a pressure-dyeable polyester filament processed yarn fabric dyed in the same bath as the wool fabric, a wool fabric dyed in the same bath as A, a polyester homopolymer filament processed yarn fabric dyed in the same bath as the wool fabric, and B is a fabric dyed in the same bath. The case of dyed wool fabric is shown. In addition, in the case of A and a, the dyeing was carried out without using a carrier, and in the case of B and b, the dyeing was carried out using a carrier. The dyeing concentration is 2% 0W, the 12th color is a medium-dark navy blue, and the weight ratio of the polyester fabric to the wool fabric is 1.

In the present invention, the degree of dyeing with a disperse dye refers to a value measured by the following method.

Method for measuring the degree of dyeing with disperse dyes> A sock knitted fabric (-mouthpiece knitted fabric) was knitted from polyester filament processed yarn in the same manner as the measurement method for L9g and Li2O described above, and after scouring, air drying, and dry heat setting, the method was described below. Dye using a navy blue disperse dye under the following conditions: wash, rinse, rinse, and air dry.

Next, the surface reflection of the dyed knitted fabric was measured using an integrating sphere colorimeter “Color Seven” (Krapow ■), and the degree of dyeing (K/S value) was determined using the Kubelka-Munk dyeing formula at the maximum absorption wavelength. demand.

Dyeing conditions: (a) Dye: Sllm1karon Blue 5E
-BLF (manufactured by Sumiya Kagaku ■) 1.0% owf Mikelon P Red SL (manufactured by Mitsui Toatsu Chemical ■) 0.5% owf Dianix orange U-3E (manufactured by Sanyo Chemical ■) 0.5% OWI dyeing aid: Nikka Sun Salt R
E-3 (Nicca Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) Dyeing aid concentration: 0.5 g/l Dyeing bath PH: 5 Dyeing bath ratio: I/30 Dyeing temperature: 98°C Dyeing time: [iQmin However, polyester homopolymer filament For processed yarns, a carrier is added and dyed.

Carrier 12 Terryl Carrier = ■-10 (manufactured by Kasei Kagakusho) Carrier concentration: 5%0WI (b) Washing with water (c) Cleaning detergent: Sundet G-291 g/l (manufactured by Sanyo Kasei ■) Sodium carbonate 0.5 g/l l Washing temperature: 1 hour: 60°C, 20 minutes Bath ratio: 1/30 (d) Washing with water, air drying The single yarn fineness of the processed polyester yarn used in the present invention is 0.1 to 20 d from the viewpoint of color development and texture. is preferred.

The total fineness of the processed polyester yarn used in the present invention is preferably 10 to 500 d from the viewpoint of improving the texture of the fabric.

As the polyester textured yarn used in the present invention, it is preferable to use a bulky textured yarn. This is because the textured yarn is required to have fullness and bulkiness, and the texture of the textured yarn is similar to the crimped yarn shape of wool, so it can be easily adapted by twisting, interlacing, etc.

Preferred examples of the specific form of such bulky textured yarn include temporary twist textured yarn and buleriya textured yarn (two-stage heat treatment system). Other preferred examples include pressed yarn and twisted yarn.

The method for producing bulky textured yarn is not particularly limited, and ordinary swirl heat treatment processing can be applied to temporary twisted yarn and bulerier textured yarn. In this case, since the pressure-dyeable polyester used in the present invention has good heat resistance, a processing heat treatment temperature of 200 to 230° C., which is the same as that of ordinary polyester, can be applied. In addition to the rotating type, it can also be manufactured using processing methods such as a friction disk type, a friction belt type, and a fluid swirl nozzle type.

In addition to the normally drawn yarn, the raw yarn to be used as the bulky textured yarn may preferably be a semi-drawn yarn (highly oriented undrawn yarn) that is simultaneously drawn and processed during the bulky process. Note that the semi-drawn yarn has the advantage that the stretch recovery rate of the processed yarn is higher than that of the normally drawn yarn.

The yarn strength of the drawn yarn, which is the raw yarn of the polyester processed yarn used in the present invention, is preferably 365 g/d or more for the process of making it into a processed yarn. In addition, it is generally difficult to obtain one exceeding 6.0 g/d.

The cutting elongation of the drawn yarn, which is the raw yarn of the polyester processed yarn used in the present invention, is preferably 30 to 50% in view of the process of making it into a processed yarn.

Strength of polyester processed yarn and drawn yarn in the present invention,
Elongation, stretch recovery rate of processed yarn, boiling water shrinkage rate and light fastness of drawn yarn are values evaluated as follows.

Strength and elongation of drawn yarn and processed yarn> Polyester yarn is extracted from the pirn of raw yarn and processed yarn, or by disassembling the knitted fabric or woven fabric as necessary.

This was tensile tested using an Instron tensile tester model 1122 (manufactured by Instron, commercially available) with a sample length of 20 cm and a tensile speed of 2.
Cutting strength (g) when extended to the cutting point at 0 cm/min
) to measure. This strength is divided by the substantial total fineness (D) to obtain the cutting strength (g/d). In addition, the elongation (%) relative to the original length when elongated to the cutting point is determined.

Stretching and contraction recovery rate of processed yarn〉 Make a 10-turn skein of processed yarn with a circumference of 80 cm, and
A sample is used that has been treated in a non-stressed state with warm water at 0°C for 20 minutes and then dried for 2 hours or more. Then, read II under water with a constant load of 0.1 g/d for 2 minutes.

After removing the weight, apply a load of 2■/d for 2 minutes and read 1□.

From this, the expansion/contraction recovery rate is calculated using the following formula.

((It 1□)/1.) xloo (%) Flood shrinkage rate of drawn yarn> Make a skein similar to the above, apply a load of 0.1 g/d,
Read o. Next, the weight was removed, water was introduced at 98° C. for 230 minutes under no tension, and air-dried. A load of 0.1 g/d was applied, l was read, and the flood shrinkage rate was calculated using the following formula.

((1, o -11)/lo)

Next, it is dyed in a light color with a red disperse dye under the following dyeing conditions.

Dye: Kayacelon Red E-2B [, (
(manufactured by Nippon Kayaku ■) Dye concentration: 0.1% owl The dyeing aid, dye bath pH, and dye bath ratio are the same as the method for evaluating black lightness described above.

In addition, the dyeing temperature is 9 for normal pressure dyeable polyester.
Dyeing is carried out at 8°C, or 130°C in the case of polyester homopolymer.

Next, it is washed with running water and air-dried, and its light fastness is measured according to JIS-LO842 (carbon arc exposure method 3rd exposure method). A dyed product with little discoloration and fading due to arc lamp irradiation is ranked as 5th grade, and is graded into 5 grades, ranging from 1st grade (poor) to 1st grade (poor).

The ratio of mixing the pressure-dyeable polyester processed yarn used in the present invention with wool is determined from the viewpoint of demonstrating the functionality (physical properties, strength, texture) of polyester, and maintaining the texture and hue appearance of wool. 30% normal pressure dyeable polyester
It is preferable to contain up to 70% by weight.

From the same viewpoint as described above, it is preferable that the proportion of the mixed yarn with wool containing 30 to 70% by weight of such atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester processed yarn is at least 10% by weight or more.

From the viewpoint of texture, the mixed form of the atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester processed yarn and wool used in the present invention is a mixed woven fabric in which the atmospheric pressure dyeable processed polyester yarn is arranged in the warp or weft yarn, or a knitted fabric. A reversible knitted fabric placed on the front or back side is preferred. In the case of a mixed woven fabric, it is preferable to use polyester for the warp yarns, as this further enhances functionality. When wool is used for the weft yarn, the napping properties are improved and a soft texture effect can be obtained. In the case of a reversible knitted fabric, for example, it is preferable to use wool on the back side and polyester on the front side, since this gives the back side water absorbency and hygroscopicity, and the front side has stretchability and strength.

Other mixing methods include blending, intertwisting, doubling, and entangling, which are preferable because they increase the degree of dispersion between the pressure-dyable polyester processed yarn and wool, further improving the same color property, texture, and functionality. . In particular, core-sheath composite yarns and intertwisted yarns, which are a mixture of pressure-dyable polyester processed yarn in the core and wool in the sheath, retain the texture of natural materials while maintaining stretch and wrinkle resistance. It is preferable because it can also provide functionality such as.

The form of the fabric is not particularly limited, and includes woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, and non-woven fabrics.

The present invention will be further explained below with reference to Examples.

[Example code] Note that the evaluation items in the examples were measured as follows.

Intrinsic viscosity of polyester> After dissolving the dried sample in an orthochlorophenol solvent, it was measured at 25°C using an Ostwald viscometer.

Bending stiffness and bending hysteresis of fabric
Measurement was performed using ES-FB-2 type (manufactured by tm KATOTBG).

Average mass coefficient and surface roughness of the fabric surface
Measured using S-FB-4 type.

<Yellow coloration degree of fabric> As in the measurement of brightness (L value) above, b was measured using a multi-light source spectrophotometer.
The value (yellowness) was measured.

<Wrinkle resistance rate of fabric> Measured using 11s-L1096 (Method B: Sensant method).

<Fold abrasion strength of fabric> Measured using jIS-L1096 (A-3 method; universal type method).

<Tear strength of fabric> Measured according to JIS-L1096 (D method: pendulum method).

<Pleat retention> Six test pieces of 30 cm in length and 20 cm in width were taken and pressed using a permanent press machine JAK-754 model (manufactured by Juki ■).
After pressing at a temperature of 100 to 105℃, pressure of 80g/cffl, and press time of 20 seconds, 3 of the 6 sheets were pressed at 24°C.
After leaving it on a time surface, the appearance was compared with a standard photograph and the pleats were graded (grade 5, grade 4... pleats are clear and good, grade 3... average, grade 2, grade 1...・Difficult to form pleats).

Next, the remaining three clothes were washed in an automatic reversing whirlpool washing machine ■1 (-1
150 model (Toshiba ■) at 40°C for 10 minutes with 25 d of a 0.2% aqueous solution of weakly alkaline synthetic detergent, rinsed for 2 minutes, and washed 5 times. After air drying, pleatability was graded in the same manner as above. The judgment value was expressed as the average value of three sheets.

Data on bending rigidity, surface stiffness, wrinkle resistance, etc. in Examples and Comparative Examples to be described later, where the warp yarn or weft yarn of the fabric is not specified, represent the average value of the warp yarn and weft yarn.

<Washing fastness> Graded according to JIS L 0844 (rounder meter method).

<Same color> The hue of wool dyed with a disperse dye in the same bath as polyester and further dyed with an acid dye was compared and judged (grade 5, grade 4).
Grade: The hues are extremely similar and good; Grade 3: They are somewhat similar and average; Grade 2; Grade 1: The hues are very similar and poor).

<Dyeing Concentration> The dyeing concentration (%owl) indicates the proportion to the weight of polyester in the case of disperse dyes, and the proportion to the weight of wool in the case of acid dyes.

Overall evaluation: Most excellent: ◎, Good: ○
, those with some problems: Δ1, and those with problems: ×.

(Example 1) <Production of normal pressure dyeable polyester processed yarn> 100 parts of dimethyl terephthalate, 80 parts of ethylene glycol, antioxidant Irganox-1010 (manufactured by Ciba Geigy)
0.3 parts, dimethylpolysiloxane (Toshiba Silicone■
silicone oil) 0.01 part, cobalt acetate 0.0
4 parts of antimony trioxide and 0.04 parts of antimony trioxide at 130°C.
The mixture was heated to ~230°C, methanol was distilled off, and a transesterification reaction was carried out. Thereafter, 8.8 parts of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 1000 was added, and the mixture was further reacted at 230°C for 30 minutes.

Then, 0.03 part of trimethyl phosphate was added,
After 5 minutes, 0.05 parts of titanium dioxide was added as a 20% by weight ethylene glycol slurry to obtain a low polymer. The obtained low polymer was further heated gradually from 230°C to 280°C, and the pressure was gradually reduced from atmospheric pressure to a high vacuum of 1 mmHg or less for polycondensation, resulting in an intrinsic viscosity of 0.70.
3. Modified polyethylene terephthalate with a softening point of 257°C was obtained.

The average molecular weight in the polyester thus obtained is 1
The copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol in No. 000 was 8.0% by weight (■).

Further, copolymerization was carried out in exactly the same manner as above except that 6.6 parts and 11.0 parts of polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 1000 were added, respectively, and the copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 1000 was 6.0% by weight ( ■), 1
A copolymerized polyester containing 0.0% by weight (■) was obtained.

The obtained polyester chips were placed in a dryer at an atmospheric temperature of 1
It was dried at 50° C. for 5 hours while maintaining a reduced pressure of 1 mmHg or less. The dried chips were spun using a spinneret with 36 holes at a spinning temperature of 290° C. and a spinning speed of 1350 m/min.

Subsequently, the hot roller temperature was 80°C and the hot plate temperature was 165°C.
The yarn was drawn at a drawing ratio of 3.37 times and a drawing speed of 800 m/min to obtain a drawn yarn of 24 filaments of 75 denier.

The resulting drawn yarn (■) had yarn physical properties of strength 4.8 g/d, elongation 41%, and water conduction shrinkage rate (hereinafter referred to as boiling yield) 11%. In addition, the drawn yarn ■ has a strength of 5.1 g/d, an elongation of 31%, and a boiling yield of 14%, and the drawn yarn ■ has a strength of 5.2 g/d, an elongation of 34%,
The boiling yield was 16%.

Each of the obtained drawn yarns was subjected to a swirl heat treatment to obtain a bulky textured yarn. Processing conditions are hot plate temperature 210℃, number of processed twists: 3
The feed rate was 430 times/ms and the feed rate was 2%.

Next, the processed yarn was made into a 1500 double yarn, and a wool yarn with a 48
A double-sided reversible cross-knitted fabric with polyester on the surface and wool on the back was knitted by cross-knitting with single yarn. Polyester blending rate is 44.4% by weight, knitting conditions are 2σ gauge, hook diameter 20
It was set as inch.

The obtained knitted fabric was finished by scouring, washing, fulling, and dyeing according to conventional methods. In addition, the dyeing was performed using the black disperse dye 7%ow.
l and black acidic metal-containing dye Ka7akalan for wool
Black BGL (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku ■) was mixed with 7% owl and dyed without using a carrier at 98° C. for 60 minutes. After dyeing, dye in a weak alkaline bath containing 1 g/l of soda ash and 0.5 g/l of non-ionic detergent at 70°C for 2 hours.
Soaped for 0 minutes and washed with water.

The black lightness of the dyed product was measured on the polyester surface using the color measurement method described above. The degree of dyeing was determined by measuring the polyester surface on the front surface and the wool surface on the back surface of the product dyed with the navy blue disperse dye. The light fastness (grade) was measured on the polyester side of the dyed with the red disperse dye.

Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the strength, stretch recovery rate, black brightness, and light fastness of the obtained processed yarn.

As is clear from Table 1, the average molecular weight of the present invention is 100
6.0-10.0% by weight of polyethylene glycol
All dyed fabric products made from copolymerized polyester processed yarn and wool have the same strength, stretch recovery rate, and light resistance as regular polyester processed yarn, compared to products made using other copolymerized polyester processed yarns. In addition, good black color development (L value: 12.4%) was obtained by normal pressure dyeing, and the same color property with the wool on the back side was also good.

In addition, the texture was soft and smooth, with just the right amount of waist and tension. There were no problems with the processability, knitting properties, and dyeing processability of the processed yarn.

(Hereinafter, blank spaces) (Comparative Examples 1 to 5) Polymerization and yarn spinning were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 1000 or the average molecular weight of polyethylene glycol was changed.

Comparative Example 1 is a case where the copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 1000 is 4.0% by weight, and Comparative Example 2 is a case where the copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 1000 is 12% by weight. Comparative Example 3 is a case where the copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 200 is 8.0% by weight, and Comparative Example 4 is a case where the copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 5000 is 8.0% by weight. 5 is a case where a polyester homopolymer was used.

The strength of the drawn yarn is 5.2 g/d and 3.5 g/d.
g/d.

3.6 g/d, 4.2 g/d, 5.4
g/d.

Next, it was made into a bulky processed yarn and evaluated under the same conditions as in Example 1, from the step of cross-knitting it with a No. 48 single yarn of wool as a double yarn, and the results are shown in Table 1.

All of them had problems compared to the embodiments of the present invention.

(Example 2) The texture and functionality of mixed fabrics were examined by changing the mixing ratio of this polyester and wool. In addition, this average molecular weight 100
Polymerization was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that 7.5% by weight of polyethylene glycol of 0.0 was copolymerized, and spinning was carried out at a spinning temperature of 290°C and a spinning speed of 3000 m/min. Then, the yarn was drawn using a rotating yarn processing method and temporarily twisted at a hot plate temperature of 210° C. to obtain a 150-denier, 48-filament, pressure-dyeable polyester bulky yarn. The strength of semi-drawn yarn is 2.4g/
d, elongation is 220%, and the strength of processed yarn is 4. Og/d, elongation 16.0%, boiling yield 6.7%, and stretch recovery rate 34.5%.

Next, the atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester processed yarn was mixed and twisted with wool at various mixing ratios ranging from 5% by weight to 95% by weight to obtain a 450 denier twisted polyester wool yarn. For comparison, 100% polyester and 100% wool were simultaneously evaluated.

Next, the twisted yarns are used as warp yarns and weft yarns to create 2/
2 twill fabric was woven. Then, according to the usual method, scouring,
Washed, fulled, dyed and finished. Finished width is 153cm,
The finishing density is a warp thread density of 55 strands/1 nch.

The weft density was 53/1 nch. In addition, the dyeing is done using blue disperse dye Re5olinc Blue FBL (
Bayer) 0.5% OWI and acid dye N71osa
n Blue N-GFL (manufactured by Sandoz) 0.5%o
It was dyed using wf in one bath at 98° C. for 45 minutes without using a carrier, and soaped in the same manner as in Example 1.

Regarding the black color development and degree of dyeing of the processed yarn, a double-sided reversible knitted fabric (cross-knitted with No. 48 single yarn of wool) was examined in the same manner as in Example 1.
When evaluated using a polyester blend ratio of 44.4% by weight, L9g was 12.6% and Li2O was 12.2%.

The difference between L9g and Li2O is 0.4%, and the degree of dyeing of the processed yarn is 22.9. The degree of dyeing of wool is 1.3. The degree of dyeing of the processed yarn was 17.6 times that of wool. Moreover, the same color property was grade 5.

Other evaluation results for the blue finished product are shown in Table 2.

From Table 2, polyester mixtures with a blending rate of 5 to 95% by weight have soft bending and a smooth texture.
In addition, it was resistant to wrinkles, had good pleat retention after washing, and had sufficient abrasion strength and tear strength. Among these, the effect was remarkable when the mixture ratio of pressure-dyeable polyester was 20 to 70% by weight.

(The following is a blank space) (Example 3) Polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 100θ was 7.5
Polymerization was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the weight % copolymerization was carried out, and stretching was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to 150 denier.

A drawn yarn of 30 filaments was obtained.

Next, a bulky textured yarn was obtained by swirling heat treatment.

The processing conditions are: hot plate temperature 215℃, number of twists 2400 times/
m.

The feed rate was set to 0.1%. The strength of processed yarn is 4.4g/
d, elongation 27.7%, boiling yield 6.2%, stretch recovery rate 32.
It was 2%.

Next, the processed yarn was cross-knitted with wool No. 52 single yarn to knit a double-sided reversible cross-knitted fabric with polyester on the front side and wool on the back side. Polyester blending rate is 46.3% by weight.
The knitting conditions were 20 gauge and a hook diameter of 2Qinch.

The obtained knitted fabric was finished by scouring, washing, fulling, and dyeing according to conventional methods.

In addition, the following three colors of disperse dye ξ acid dye were used for dyeing, and 9
Dyeing was carried out at 8° C. for 60 minutes without using a carrier.

Dye> Color tone: Charcoal gray Disperse dye: Rcsoline Blue FBL (manufactured by Bayer) ・0.4%owfResoline
Red FB (200%) (manufactured by Bayer) 0.
2%owf Miketon, P, Yellow F3G (manufactured by Mitsui Toatsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.2%owl Acidic dye: Lanaset Gray G (manufactured by Ciba Geigy) 0.72%owlLanasel Red
G (manufactured by Ciba Geigy) 0.06%owfLanas
et Yellow 2R (manufactured by Ciba Geigy) 0.27% owf color tone dark brown disperse dye + Dianix Blue BG-FS
(200%) (Mitsubishi Kasei ■) 0°3%owfR
esoline Rubine 8L (manufactured by Bayer)
0.2% ovf Dianf 0ranB U-8E (manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei ■) o, 9% owf Acid dye: Kayakalan Gray BL (manufactured by Nippon Kakami) o, 8% owf Kayakalan Brown GL (manufactured by Nippon Kakami) 1゜2 %owlKayakalan Ye
low GL (made by Nippon Kajimi) 0.03%o
w1 color tone: Navy blue Disperse dye: Sumikaron Blue 5E-B
LF (manufactured by Sumima Kagaku ■) 1,0%owl Miketon, P, Red SL (manufactured by Mitsui Toatsu Chemical ■) o65%owl Dianix Orangc U-5E (manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei ■) o, 5%owl Acid dye: Sl, Inchromine, F, Btu
MB (1209i) (manufactured by Juju Kagaku ■) 1.7%o
wl Sunchromine, F, Yellow MD
(manufactured by Jumin Kagaku ■) The 0.17% OWI evaluation results are shown in Table 3. In the table, the degree of dyeing was evaluated using disperse dyes, and other evaluations were performed using disperse dyes and acid dyes.

Table 3 shows that the dyed products obtained according to the present invention have an extremely high degree of dyeing of polyester in charcoal gray, brown, and navy blue hues, a degree of dyeing of wool (
The dye staining) was low (the former was more than 5 times that of the latter, indicating favorable staining properties).

In addition, the same color property between polyester and wool, light fastness,
It also had excellent washing fastness and was of extremely high quality.

(Hereinafter, blank space) (Comparative Example 6) Polymerization and yarn spinning were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that polyester homopolymer was used instead of copolymerized polyester. Next, bulk processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 3. The strength of processed yarn is 4
．． 6 g/d, elongation 28.5%, boiling yield 5.8%,
The stretch recovery rate was 39.4%. Next, in the same manner as in Example 3, cross-knitting with wool, dyeing, and finishing were performed to obtain a cross-knitted fabric with wool. However, the dyeing was carried out by adding 5% owl of a carrier (Terryl Carrier Y-10, manufactured by Meisei Kagaku ■).

The evaluation results are also shown in Table 3.

Table 3 shows that, despite carrier dyeing, the degree of dyeing of polyester was low, the degree of dyeing of wool (dying stain) was high, and the ratio of these degrees of dyeing was less than 5.

In addition, the same color property between polyester and wool, light fastness,
There were problems with washing fastness and workability (carrier removal).

[Effects of the Invention] According to the present invention, there is provided a mixed fabric dyed product of a sound-pressure dyeable polyester processed yarn and wool, which has excellent same color property and also has excellent texture and functionality, and a method for producing the same. It became possible to provide.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 shows the relationship between dyeing temperature and degree of dyeing when pressure-dyeable polyester and wool used in the present invention are dyed in the same bath with a disperse dye. In the figure, A: Atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester filament processed yarn fabric dyed in the same bath as the wool fabric a: Wool fabric dyed in the same bath as A B: Polyester homopolymer filament processed yarn fabric dyed in the same bath as the wool fabric S- The color of the wool fabric dyed in the same bath as B (''(Z) Figure 1

Claims (2)

[Claims] (1) In mixed fabric dyed products of polyester processed yarn and wool, polyester has an average molecular weight of 500 to 400.
It is an atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester copolymerized with 6.0 to 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol, and the strength of the processed polyester yarn is 3.0 to 6.0 g/d, and the stretch recovery rate is 16.
~40%, and the black brightness when dyed at 98°C of polyester processed yarn is 17% or less, and the black brightness when dyed at 98°C is 13%.
Polyester processing characterized in that the difference in black lightness when dyed at 0°C is 1.0% or less, and the degree of dyeing of the polyester processed yarn with the disperse dye is at least 5 times the dyeing degree of the wool with the disperse dye. A mixed fabric dyed product of yarn and wool. (2) After relaxing and scouring a mixed fabric of wool and atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester processed yarn copolymerized with polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 500 to 4,000 in an amount of 6.0 to 10% by weight based on the polymer weight, A method for producing a mixed fabric dyed product of processed polyester yarn and wool, characterized by dyeing with a disperse dye and an acid dye at temperature without using a carrier, and finishing the product.