JPH0210803B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to cosmetic dispersions consisting of dispersions of lipid globules. This type of aqueous dispersion is described in French Patent No. 2315991 (Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 52-6375).
It is described in. The lipid globules in the dispersion are characterized by a structure consisting of two or more lipid layers separated from each other by a layer of aqueous phase. The lipid globules thus serve to protect water-soluble active substances, such as pharmaceutical or cosmetic substances, from the external environment by entrapping them in the aqueous part between the lipid layers. The French patent also describes a new method for preparing aqueous dispersions of lipid globules. According to this, the lipids that will form the concentric membranes of the globules are brought into contact with the aqueous solution to be incorporated into the globules, and the lipophilic/hydrophilic ratio of the lipids is maintained. The lipids swell in the water or aqueous phase to such an extent that they form a thin film phase, then the aqueous solution that is to become the continuous phase outside the globules of the dispersion is added to the thin film phase, and third the whole is stirred vigorously. A dispersion of globules is thus obtained in which the aqueous phase to be incorporated is confined between concentric membranes. According to the French patent, ionic or nonionic amphiphilic lipids can be used to form concentric thin films of globules. Among the nonionic amphiphilic lipids, the following are preferred. Straight-chain or branched, respectively, with the following formulas R—(OCH ₂ —CHOHCH ₂ )— _o OH and (In this formula, an integer from 1 to 6, R is a carbon atom
12 to 30 saturated or unsaturated linear or branched aliphatic chains, hydrocarbon residues of lanolin alcohols or 2-hydroxyalkyl residues of long-chain α-diols) Ethers, polyoxyethylated fatty alcohols, oxyethylated or non-oxyethylated polyol esters, especially polyoxyethylated esters of sorbitol, and natural or synthetic glycolipids such as cerebrosides. Among the cosmetic active substances that can be entrapped in lipid globules, the French patent specification mentions, for example, skin care products such as humectants, artificial tanning agents, skin colorants, water-soluble sunscreens, perspiration. Preventive agents, deodorants, astringents, refreshing agents, hair tonics,
Healing medicines, keratolytic agents, depilatory agents, perfumes and extracts from animal or plant tissues. Said cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous dispersion of lipid globules has the advantage, compared to conventional compositions in the form of an oil and water emulsion, of being less aggressive, i.e. less irritating when applied to the skin. be. The object of the present invention is to combine the advantages of a dispersion of globules with those of a cosmetic oil.
A cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous dispersion of lipid globules is disclosed. Accordingly, the present invention provides a lipid globule dispersion in which lipid globules having an aqueous phase encapsulated inside by a molecular layer composed of at least one nonionic amphipathic lipid are dispersed in an aqueous phase outside the lipid globule dispersion. Triglyceride, formula R-COOR', where R is a higher fatty acid residue containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and R' is a
At least one oil selected from the group consisting of fatty acid esters of branched chain alcohols (which are branched hydrocarbon chains containing up to 20 branched hydrocarbon chains) and bittersweet oil is added to the aqueous phase outside the lipid globules as described above. It relates to a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it is dispersed in. Surprisingly, it has been found that oil-in-water dispersions can be stabilized using nonionic amphiphilic lipid globules without the addition of conventional emulsifiers and without globule destruction. However, as is well known, the stability of emulsions mainly depends on the presence of emulsifiers, whose molecules adsorb to the surface of oil droplets and form a kind of continuous film, which can be e.g. Prevents direct contact between two droplets that form when being shot. Therefore, those skilled in the art would think that in the case of the present invention, the nonionic amphipathic lipids in the globules play a role similar to that of an emulsifier and are adsorbed onto the surface of the oil droplets; The effect is that the concentric membranes of the membrane are destroyed. This is not the case with the present invention, and surprisingly, the nonionic amphiphilic lipids of the present invention disperse around the oil droplets with the globules intact, leaving the aforementioned vegetable oil in the outer aqueous phase. At least one dispersion can be stabilized. U.S. Pat. No. 3,957,971 describes globular or liposomal dispersions of ionic amphiphiles, which may be part of cosmetic cream or lotion compositions, i.e. water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions. It is something that does. The globules of the present invention consist of non-ionic rather than ionic amphiphiles. Furthermore, it has been found that liposomes are not able to stabilize dispersions of vegetable oils in water of the type mentioned above, whereas spherules of nonionic amphiphiles according to the invention can stabilize such dispersions. can. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is produced in two stages. In the first step, an aqueous dispersion of globules is prepared from nonionic amphiphilic lipids by the method described in either FR 2 315 991 or FR 2 221 122. In the second stage, especially after the preparation of the aqueous dispersion of the globules, oil is added. Shake to disperse this oil into the outer aqueous phase. Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the invention contains 2 to 10% by weight of nonionic amphipathic lipids constituting the walls of the globules and 2 to 40% of dispersed oil, based on the total composition weight.
Including weight %. The ratio of nonionic amphiphilic lipid to dispersed oil is advantageously from 0.2 to 1:1. Oils that can be included in the compositions of the invention include:
Liquid triglyceride, formula -COO-R', where R is a residue of a higher fatty acid containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms;
R' represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms. Among liquid triglycerides, particular mention may be made of sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, calabash oil, grapeseed oil, and glycerin tricaprocaprylate.
Among the branched alcohol fatty acid esters of the formula R--COO--R', mention may be made, inter alia, of parcellin oil. The cosmetically active substance of the composition according to the invention can be confined inside or outside the globule. Accordingly, in preferred embodiments, the oily phase of the composition comprises one or more lipophilic cosmetic substances. In preparing the compositions of the invention, these substances are dissolved in oil beforehand and added to the dispersion of lipid globules. Among these fat-soluble cosmetic active substances, mention may be made in particular of sunscreen filters, such as 2-ethylhexyl-para-dimethylaminobenzoate, or of substances that improve the condition of dry and aged skin, especially from non-saponifiable substances such as soybean and avocado. derivatives, tocopherols, vitamins E and F and antioxidants. The oil-in-water dispersion constituting the medium for the dispersion of globules can contain at least one additive, especially a gelling agent or a perfume. Additives are added to the dispersion at the same time as the oil. Gel agents can be added in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Among the gelling agents that can be used, particular mention may be made of cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, synthetic polymers, algal derivatives such as satiagum or even natural gums such as tragacanth. Hydroxyethylcellulose, a mixture of carboxyvinylic acids sold under the name CARBOPOL 940, gum satya or tragacanth are preferably used as gelling agents. The nonionic amphiphilic lipids constituting the concentric thin films of globules in the cosmetic composition of the present invention have the formula R-( _OCH2CHOH - _CH2 ) _o -OH or respectively (In the formula, n is a number from 2 to 6, R is a carbon atom 16
A straight or branched polyglycerin ether represented by (which is a straight or branched saturated fatty chain containing ~20 hydrocarbon residues of lanolin alcohol) or (where the methylene group is a carbonyl group), and polyoxyethylenated sterine. When a nonionic amphiphilic lipid is brought into contact with an entrapped aqueous phase to form a flat thin film phase,
For example, various auxiliaries can be combined with the lipids to alter the permeability or surface charge of the globules. Optionally added as such auxiliaries are long-chain alcohols and diols, sterine, especially cholesterin and β-sitosterine, long-chain amines and their quaternary ammonium derivatives, especially didodecyldimethylammonium bromide, hydroxyalkylamines, polyoxy Ethylated fatty amines, long chain amino alcohol esters and their salts and quaternary ammonium derivatives,
Phosphate esters of fatty alcohols are especially dicetyl phosphate, alkyl sulfates such as sodium cetyl sulfate, and polymers such as polypeptides and proteins. In addition to the auxiliaries mentioned above, preservatives such as methyl-para-hydroxybenzoate can be added. The aqueous phase inside or outside the globule can typically contain water-soluble cosmetic substances for use in caring for the face, hands or body. Among these substances, mention may be made in particular of humectants such as glycerin, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, inosytate and pyrrolidone carboxylic acids and their salts, artificial tanning agents such as dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, glyceraldehyde and gamma-dialdehydes such as tartaric aldehyde, skin colorants, sunscreens,
Antiperspirants, deodorants, astringents, cooling agents, hair nourishing agents, healing agents, keratolytic agents, depilatory agents, perfumes, extracts from animals or plants such as proteins, amniotic fluid and polysaccharides, and also antiseborrheic agents. Next, the present invention will be further explained by giving some specific examples, but these are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. The cosmetic compositions described in the examples below are manufactured in two stages. In the first step, an aqueous dispersion is prepared according to the method described in French Patent No. 2,315,991. The aqueous dispersion of lipid globules comprises a nonionic amphipathic lipid, a sterin such as cholesterin or β-sitosterin, optionally dicetyl phosphate, optionally a water-soluble cosmetic active substance, and a preservative. It is also made from deionized water. In the second stage, the oil is added and dispersed by vigorous mechanical stirring at an ambient temperature, preferably about 40°C. In this second step, fat-soluble cosmetic substances, fragrances and/or gelling agents are optionally added. Example 1 Comparative experiments between the cosmetic composition according to the invention and cosmetic compositions of the known type Two compositions (A) and (B) are prepared. Composition (B)
(A) and (B) are exactly the same except that the second step of adding oil is not performed in the production of. Composition (A) contains the following ingredients. 1st stage formula (In the formula, R is a hexadecyl group and the statistical average value is 3) Nonionic amphipathic lipid represented by 3.8g β-sitosterin 3.8g dicetyl phosphate 0.4g Methyl-para-hydroxybenzoate 0.3 g Deionized water 66.7 g 2nd step Add 25 g of sunflower oil to the above dispersion and stir the whole vigorously mechanically to obtain the finished dispersion. Cosmetic composition (B) is prepared in the same way, but instead of adding 25 g of sunflower oil in the second stage, the same amount of deionized water is added. Cosmetic composition (A) thus differs from cosmetic composition (B) in that it contains 25% sunflower oil. (1) Measurement of the skin friction coefficient when spreading cosmetic compositions (A) and (B) The skin friction coefficient when spreading cosmetic compositions (A) or (B) was measured on the forearm of the subject. Measured by a rotating sensor. While the sensor rotates itself, it records the change in resistance force within the range of movement of the sensor. Constant force on the sensor (20 or 50g)
multiply. I get the following result:

Table: Composition (B), which is an oil-free aqueous dispersion of lipid globules, substantially increases the skin friction coefficient, whereas composition (B), which is an oil-free aqueous dispersion of lipid globules, substantially increases the coefficient of friction of the skin. Composition (A), which is a liquid, has the opposite effect to (B). This substantial reduction in the coefficient of friction of the skin means that the composition (A) of the present invention provides softness as a cosmetic product. (2) In vitro measurement of the elastic modulus of the human stratum corneum before or after application of the cosmetic compositions (A) and (B) Measured using an experimental device for measuring the elastic modulus of the skin I did this. An experimental device of this type is disclosed in French patent application no. 78/25149. The experimental conditions were as follows. Relative humidity: 72±2% Temperature: 30±0.2°C Amount of composition applied: 5 mg/cm ² The following results are obtained.

[Table] This result clearly shows the difference in the softness of the stratum corneum when using a dispersion of globules without an oil phase and when using a dispersion of globules with an oil phase. Example 2 Body Care Liquid Stage 1 According to the method described above, an aqueous dispersion of lipid globules is prepared from the following materials: formula (In the formula, R is a hexadecyl group, and the statistical average value of is 3) Nonionic amphiphilic lipid represented by 4.5g β-sitosterin 4.5g Dicetyl phosphate 1.0g Methyl-para-hydroxy Benzoate 0.3g Sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid 2.0g Deionized water 56.5g Second stage Add the following substances to the dispersion of lipid globules obtained in the first stage. Fragrance 0.4 g Sunflower oil 10.0 g Carboxyvinylic acid mixture commercially available under the name CARBOPOL 940 0.4 g Triethanolamine 0.4 g Deionized water 20.0 g Example 3 Facial care liquid 1st stage According to the above method, An aqueous dispersion of lipid globules is prepared from the following materials: formula (In the formula, R is a hexadecyl group and n is 2) Nonionic amphiphilic lipid represented by 6.0g Cholesterin 1.6g Dicetyl phosphate 0.4g Methyl-para-hydroxybenzoate 0.3g Deionized water 61.1g Second stage Add the following substances to the lipid globule dispersion obtained in the first stage. Flavoring 0.2 g Grape seed oil 20.0 g Carboxyvinylic acid mixture commercially available under the name CARBOPOL 940 0.2 g Triethanolamine 0.2 g Deionized water 10.0 g Example 4 Hand care liquid Step 1 Follow the above method , prepare an aqueous dispersion of lipid globules from the following materials: Polyoxyethylated phytosterin (average value 5, statistically distributed) 6.0 g Cholesterin 2.0 g Methyl-para-hydroxybenzoate 0.3 g Deionized water 45.7 g Second stage Small particles obtained in the first stage Add the following substances to the sphere dispersion. Fragrance 0.2g Perfume oil 25.0g Carboxyvinylic acid mixture commercially available under the name CARBOPOL 940 0.4g Triethanolamine 0.4g Deionized water 20.0g Example 5 Body care liquid 1st stage According to the above method, An aqueous dispersion of lipid globules is prepared from the following materials: formula (In the formula, R is a hexadecyl group, and the statistical average value of is 3) Nonionic amphipathic lipid represented by 4.0 g Cholesterin 4.0 g Methyl-para-hydroxybenzoate 0.3 g Deionized water 45.5 g Second stage Add the following substances to the dispersion of lipid globules obtained in the first stage. Fragrance 0.4 g Corn oil 25.0 g Carboxyvinylic acid mixture commercially available under the name CARBOPOL 940 0.4 g Triethanolamine 0.4 g Deionized water 20.0 g Example 6 Facial Care Liquid Stage 1 According to the above method, An aqueous dispersion of lipid globules is prepared from the following materials: formula (In the formula, R is a hexadecyl group, and the statistical average value of is 3.) Benzoate 0.30g Deionized water 64.80g Second stage Add the following substances to the dispersion of globules obtained in the first stage. Fragrance 0.4 g Soybean oil 10.0 g Non-saponifiable substances derived from soybeans 2.0 g Hydroxyethylcellulose, commercially available under the name Natroso 250 HHR 0.5 g Deionized water 20.0 g Example 7 Sunscreen liquid first stage As described above According to the method, an aqueous dispersion of lipid globules is prepared from the following materials: formula (In the formula, R is a hexadecyl group, and the statistical average value of is 3) Nonionic amphiphilic lipid represented by 3.6g β-sitosterin 3.6g Didodecyldimethylammonium bromide 0.8g Methyl-para- Hydroxybenzoate 0.3g Deionized water 45.9g Second stage Add the following substances to the dispersion of globules obtained in the first stage. Fragrance 0.4g Calabash oil 22.0g 2-Ethylhexyl-para-dimethylaminobenzoate 3.0g Gum tragacanth 0.4g Deionized water 20.0g Example 8 Hand care liquid Step 1 According to the method described above, lipid globules were prepared from the following substances: Produce an aqueous dispersion. formula (In the formula, R is a hexadecyl group, and the statistical average value of is 3) Nonionic amphipathic lipid represented by Benzoate 0.3g Glycerin 3.0g Deionized water 42.5g Second stage Add the following substances to the dispersion of globules obtained in the first stage. Perfume 0.2 g Parcellin oil 25.0 g Satya gum 1.0 g Deionized water 20.0 g Example 9 Body care liquid An aqueous dispersion of lipid globules is prepared from the following materials according to the method described above. formula (In the formula, R is a hexadecyl group, and the statistical average value of is 3) Nonionic amphipathic lipid represented by Benzoate 0.3g Deionized water 60.5g Second stage Add the following substances to the dispersion of globules obtained in the first stage. Fragrance 0.4g Glycerin-tricaprocaprylate 10.0g Carboxyvinylic acid mixture commercially available under the name CARBOPOL 940 0.4g Triethanolamine 0.4g Deionized water 20.0g Example 10 Facial Care Cream Stage 1 Said An aqueous dispersion of lipid globules is prepared from the following materials according to the method of: formula (In the formula, R is a hexadecyl group, and the statistical average value of is 3.) Ionized water 47.6g Second stage Add the following substances to the dispersion of small spheres obtained in the first stage. Sunflower oil 35.0 g Fragrance 0.6 g Carboxyvinylic acid mixture commercially available under the name CARBOPOL 940 0.2 g Triethanolamine 0.2 g Deionized water 8.1 g Example 11 Facial care cream Stage 1 According to the above method, An aqueous dispersion of lipid globules is prepared from the following materials: Nonionic amphipathic lipids with the formula C ₁₆ H ₃₃ O (CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ O) - ₂ H 3.80 g Cholesterin 3.80 g Dicetyl phosphate 0.40 g Preservative 0.30 g Glycerin 3.00 g Deionized water 56.68 g Step 2 Add the following substances to the dispersion of globules obtained in step 1. Sesame oil 16.00g Flavoring 0.20g Carboxyvinylic acid mixture commercially available from Goodrich under the name CARBOPOL 940
0.42 g Triethanolamine 0.40 g Deionized water 15.00 g Example 12 Facial Care Cream Stage 1 An aqueous dispersion of lipid globules is prepared from the following materials according to the method described above. Nonionic amphipathic lipids represented by the formula C ₁₅ H ₃₁ COO (CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ O) - ₂ H 3.80 g Cholesterin 3.80 g Dicetyl phosphate 0.40 g Preservative 0.30 g Glycerin 3.00 g Deionized water 56.68 g Step 2 Add the following substances to the dispersion of globules obtained in step 1. Sesame oil 16.00g Flavoring 0.20g Carboxyvinylic acid mixture commercially available from Goodrich under the name CARBOPOL 940
0.42 g Triethanolamine 0.40 g Deionized water 15.00 g Example 13 Facial Care Cream Stage 1 An aqueous dispersion of lipid globules is prepared from the following materials according to the method described above. Polyglycerin distearate containing approximately 6 moles of glycerin, commercially available from Capital City under the name CAPROL 6G2S 3.80 g Cholesterin 3.80 g Dicetyl phosphate 0.40 g Preservative 0.30 g Glycerin 3.00 g Deionized water 47.68 g Step 2 Add the following substances to the dispersion of globules obtained in step 1. Macadamia oil 25.00g Flavoring 0.20g Carboxyvinylic acid mixture commercially available from Goodrich under the name CARBOPOL 940
0.42 g Triethanolamine 0.40 g Deionized water 15.00 g It will be understood that the above specific examples are not intended to limit the invention, and that various desirable changes and modifications are possible without departing from the scope of the invention.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. In a lipid globule dispersion in which lipid globules having an aqueous phase encapsulated therein by a molecular layer composed of at least one nonionic amphipathic lipid are dispersed in an aqueous phase outside the lipid globule. , liquid triglyceride, formula R-
A branched chain alcohol represented by COOR' (wherein R is a higher fatty acid residue containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms and R' is a branched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 20 carbon atoms) A cosmetic composition, characterized in that at least one oil selected from the group consisting of fatty acid esters of 1 and 100% oil is dispersed in an aqueous phase outside the aforementioned lipid globules. 2. The composition according to item 1 above, wherein the liquid triglyceride is selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, calabash oil, grape seed oil, and glycerin tricaprocaprylate. 3. The composition according to item 1 above, wherein Purcellin oil is used as the branched chain alcohol fatty acid ester of formula R-COOR'. 4 Based on the total weight of the composition, 2 to 10% by weight of nonionic amphipathic lipids constituting the walls of the lipid globules and 2 to 10% of the oil dispersed in the aqueous phase outside the lipid globules.
40% by weight, and the ratio of nonionic amphipathic lipid to oil was 0.2:1 to 1:1, items 1 to 3 above.
The composition according to any one of. 5. The composition according to any one of items 1 to 4 above, wherein the aqueous phase outside the lipid globules contains a gelling agent in an amount of 0.1 to 2% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. 6. The composition according to item 5 above, wherein the gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, algae derivatives, or natural rubber. 7. The composition according to any one of items 1 to 6 above, wherein the aqueous phase outside the lipid globules contains at least one fragrance and/or one or more fat-soluble cosmetic substances. 8. As a fat-soluble cosmetic substance, one selected from sunscreen filters, substances that improve the condition of dry or aged skin, or antioxidants is used;
The composition according to item 7 above. 9 As a nonionic amphipathic lipid that constitutes the wall of a lipid globule, the formula R-(OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ )- _o OH or (In the formula, n is a number from 2 to 6, R is a carbon atom 16
A straight-chain or branched polyglycerol ether represented by a straight-chain or branched saturated aliphatic chain containing ~20 or a hydrocarbon residue of lanolin alcohol; 9. The composition according to any one of the preceding items 1 to 8, which uses an ester (wherein the methylene group is a carbonyl group) or a polyoxyethylenated sterine. 10 Long-chain alcohols and diols, sterine, long-chain amines and their quaternary ammonium derivatives, hydroxyalkylamines, polyoxyethylated fatty amines, long-chain amino alcohol esters and their salts and their quaternary ammonium derivatives, polymers and fats 10. The composition according to item 9 above, which comprises a combination of an auxiliary agent selected from the group consisting of alcohol phosphate esters and a nonionic amphipathic lipid. 11. Item 1 above, in which the inner aqueous phase or the outer aqueous phase contains at least one water-soluble cosmetic substance.
The composition according to any one of items 1 to 10. 12 Water-soluble cosmetic substances include humectants, artificial tanning agents, skin coloring agents, sunscreen agents, antiperspirants, deodorants, astringents, refreshing agents, hair tonics, healing agents, keratolytic agents, depilatory agents, and perfumes. 12. The composition according to the preceding item 11, wherein the composition is selected from the group consisting of , extracts from animal or plant tissues, and antiseborrheic agents.