GB2079179A - Cosmetic Composition Based On an Aqueous Dispersion of Small Lipid Spheres - Google Patents

Cosmetic Composition Based On an Aqueous Dispersion of Small Lipid Spheres Download PDF

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GB2079179A
GB2079179A GB8120182A GB8120182A GB2079179A GB 2079179 A GB2079179 A GB 2079179A GB 8120182 A GB8120182 A GB 8120182A GB 8120182 A GB8120182 A GB 8120182A GB 2079179 A GB2079179 A GB 2079179A
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    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES AND WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11DDETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D3/00Other compounding ingredients of detergent compositions covered in group C11D1/00
    • C11D3/0005Other compounding ingredients characterised by their effect
    • C11D3/0084Antioxidants; Free-radical scavengers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/10Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K9/127Liposomes
    • A61K9/1271Non-conventional liposomes, e.g. PEGylated liposomes, liposomes coated with polymers
    • A61K9/1272Non-conventional liposomes, e.g. PEGylated liposomes, liposomes coated with polymers with substantial amounts of non-phosphatidyl, i.e. non-acylglycerophosphate, surfactants as bilayer-forming substances, e.g. cationic lipids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/10Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K9/127Liposomes
    • A61K9/1277Processes for preparing; Proliposomes
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B01PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL PROCESSES OR APPARATUS IN GENERAL
    • B01DSEPARATION
    • B01D19/00Degasification of liquids
    • B01D19/02Foam dispersion or prevention
    • B01D19/04Foam dispersion or prevention by addition of chemical substances
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B01PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL PROCESSES OR APPARATUS IN GENERAL
    • B01FMIXING, e.g. DISSOLVING, EMULSIFYING, DISPERSING
    • B01F17/00Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing or foam-producing agents
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES AND WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11DDETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D17/00Detergent materials characterised by their shape or physical properties
    • C11D17/0008Detergent materials characterised by their shape or physical properties aqueous liquid non soap compositions
    • C11D17/0026Structured liquid compositions, e.g. liquid crystalline phases, network containing non-Newtonian phase
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS, OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M7/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made of other substances with subsequent freeing of the treated goods from the treating medium, e.g. swelling, e.g. polyolefins
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C10PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
    • C10MLUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
    • C10M2201/00Inorganic compounds or elements as ingredients in lubricant compositions
    • C10M2201/02Water
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C10PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
    • C10MLUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
    • C10M2203/00Organic non-macromolecular hydrocarbon compounds and hydrocarbon fractions as ingredients in lubricant compositions
    • C10M2203/02Well-defined aliphatic compounds
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C10PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
    • C10MLUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
    • C10M2203/00Organic non-macromolecular hydrocarbon compounds and hydrocarbon fractions as ingredients in lubricant compositions
    • C10M2203/02Well-defined aliphatic compounds
    • C10M2203/022Well-defined aliphatic compounds saturated
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C10PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
    • C10MLUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
    • C10M2203/00Organic non-macromolecular hydrocarbon compounds and hydrocarbon fractions as ingredients in lubricant compositions
    • C10M2203/02Well-defined aliphatic compounds
    • C10M2203/024Well-defined aliphatic compounds unsaturated
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C10PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
    • C10MLUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
    • C10M2203/00Organic non-macromolecular hydrocarbon compounds and hydrocarbon fractions as ingredients in lubricant compositions
    • C10M2203/04Well-defined cycloaliphatic compounds
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C10PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
    • C10MLUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
    • C10M2215/00Organic non-macromolecular compounds containing nitrogen as ingredients in lubricant compositions
    • C10M2215/02Amines, e.g. polyalkylene polyamines; Quaternary amines
    • C10M2215/04Amines, e.g. polyalkylene polyamines; Quaternary amines having amino groups bound to acyclic or cycloaliphatic carbon atoms
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C10PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
    • C10MLUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
    • C10M2215/00Organic non-macromolecular compounds containing nitrogen as ingredients in lubricant compositions
    • C10M2215/26Amines
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C10PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
    • C10MLUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
    • C10M2223/00Organic non-macromolecular compounds containing phosphorus as ingredients in lubricant compositions
    • C10M2223/10Phosphatides, e.g. lecithin, cephalin
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C10PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
    • C10NINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASS C10M RELATING TO LUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS
    • C10N2240/00Specified uses or applications of lubricating compositions
    • C10N2240/62Textile oils
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS, OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/40Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions

Abstract

A cosmetic composition is a radical of a fatty acid containing described which is in the form of an aqueous dispersion of small spheres composed of organised molecular layers between which an internal aqueous phase is encapsulated, these layers comprising at least one non- ionic amphiphilic lipid, the external aqueous phase containing at least one oil which is a fatty acid ester of a polyol, or a fatty acid ester of a branched alcohol, of the formula R- COOR', in which formula R represents a radical of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and R' represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; the oil may be sunflower, maize, soya, gourd, grapeseed, jojoba or purcellin oil or glycerol tricaprocaprylate.

Description

SPECIFICATION Cosmetic Composition Based on an Aqueous Dispersion of Small Lipid Spheres The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition consisting of a dispersion of small lipid spheres. Aqueous dispersions of this type have already been described in French Patent 2,315,991 .

The small lipid spheres in these dispersions are in the form of roughly concentric laminae consisting of two or more lipid layers which are separated from one another by layers of aqueous phase. They can thus be used to encapsulate water-soluble active substances, for example pharmaceutical or cosmetic substances, in the aqueous compartments between the lipid layers, and to protect them from the exterior.

The abovementioned French patent also describes a new process for the preparation of an aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres, which consists firstly in bringing the lipids which are to constitute the concentric laminae of the small spheres into contact with the aqueous solution to be encapsulated, the lipophilic/hydrophilic ratio of the chosen lipids being such that the latter swell in water or in the aqueous phase to be encapsulated, in order to form a plane lamellar phase, secondly in adding, to the lamellar phase, an aqueous solution which is to constitute the continuous external phase of the dispersion, and thirdly in subjecting the whole to vigorous agitation in order to obtain a dispersion of small spheres, between the concentric laminae of which the aqueous phase to be encapsulated is trapped.

In order to form the concentric laminae of the small spheres, it is possible, according to the teaching of this French patent, to use either ionic or non-ionic amphiphilic lipids. The following are preferred amongst the non-ionic amphiphilic lipids: the linear or branched polyglycerol ethers of the formulae respectively: R~(OCH2~CHOH~CH2)n OH and <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00010001" />

n being an integer from 1 to 6 and R being a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic chain containing 12 to 30 carbon atoms, a hydrocarbon radical of a lanolin alcohol or a 2-hydroxyalkyl radical of a long-chain a-diol; polyoxyethyleneated fatty alcohols; oxyethyleneated or non-oxyethyleneated polyol esters and, in particular, polyoxyethyleneated sorbitol esters; and glycolipids of natural or synthetic origin, for example cerebrosides.

Amongst the cosmetic active substances which can be encapsulated in the small lipid spheres, the above-mentioned French patent gives as examples substances for skin care, such as humectants, artificial tanning agents, skin-colouring agents, water-soluble sun filters, antiperspirants, deodorants, astringents, freshening-up products, tonics, cicatrising agents, keratolytic agents, depilatories, perfumed waters and extracts from animal or plant tissues.

It has been observed that the cosmetic compositions referred to above, in the form of an aqeuous dispersion of small lipid spheres, exhibit the advantage, compared with conventional preparations in the form of an oil and water emulsion, of having a less aggressive action and consequently of causing less irritation when they are applied to the skin.

The aim of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition based on an aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres, which makes it possible to combine the advantages of the dispersions of small spheres with the advantages resulting from the presence of cosmetic oils.

The present invention thus provides a cosmetic composition consisting of an aqueous dispersion of small spheres composed of organised molecular layers between which an internal aqueous phase is encapsulated, these layers consisting of at least one non-ionic amphiphilic lipid, characterised in that at least one oil is dispersed in the external aqueous phase which surrounds the small spheres, the said oil being taken from the group comprising fatty acid esters of polyols, especially liquid triglycerides, and fatty acid esters of branched alcohols, of the formula R-C0OR', in which formula R represents the radical of a higher fatty acid containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and R' represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms.

It has been observed, unexpectedly, that the small spheres of non-ionic amphiphilic substances make it possible to stabilise the oil-in-water dispersion without requiring the addition of a conventional emulsifying agent and without causing the destruction of the small spheres. It is known that the stability of an emulsion depends mainly on the presence of an emulsifier, the molecules of which are adsorbed onto the surface of the oil droplets to form a kind of continuous membrane which prevents direct contact between two adjacent droplets, for example during shock.Thus, in the present case, those skilled in the art might have expected that the non-ionic amphiphilic lipids in the small spheres would act as an emulsifier by being adsorbed onto the surface of the oil droplets, but they would also have expected that this stabilisation effect would also have the effect of causing the destruction of the concentric laminae of the small spheres. This has been found not to be the case at all and, surprisingly, the small spheres of non-ionic amphiphilic substances of the invention are capable of stabilising a dispersion of at least one vegetable oil, defined above, in an external aqueous phase by dispersing around the oil droplets, whilst retaining their integrity.

U.S. Patent 3,957,971 describes dispersions of small spheres of ionic amphiphilic substances or liposomes, which are used in cosmetic creams or lotions, that is to say of water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions. In the present invention, the small spheres are composed not of ionic amphiphilic substances but of non-ionic amphiphilic substances. Moreover, it can be shown that the liposomes do not make it possible to stabilise a dispersion, in water, of a vegetable oil as defined above, whereas, totally unexpectedly, the small spheres of non-ionic amphiphilic substances of the invention do make it possible to stabilise a dispersion of this type.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be prepared in two stages; in a first stage, an aqueous dispersion of small spheres is prepared from non-ionic amphiphilic lipids using either the process described in French Patent 2,31 5,991 or the procedures described in French Patent 2,221,122, the disclosures of which are hereby incorporated by reference. In a second stage, once the aqueous dispersion of small spheres has been produced, the oil is added thereto. The oil is then dispersed in the external aqueous phase by agitation.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains from 2 to 10% of nonionic amphiphilic lipid(s) which form the walls of the small spheres, and from 2 to 40% of dispersed oil(s), these percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the ratio by weight of non-ionic amphiphilic lipid(s), relative to the dispersed oil (or oils), is from 0.2:1 to 1:1.

The oils which are incorporated into the composition according to the invention are fatty acid esters of polyols, in particular liquid triglycerides, and fatty acid esters of branched alcohols, of the formula: R-C00-R', in which formula R represents the radical of a higher fatty acid containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and R7 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms. Suitable fatty acid esters of polyols include sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, gourd oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil and glycerol tricaprocaprylate. Purcellin oil may be mentioned specifically as a higher fatty acid ester of a branched alcohol.

The cosmetic active substances of the composition according to the invention can be encapsulated inside or outside the small spheres. Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the oily phase of the composition contains one or more liposoluble cosmetic substances. In the preparation of the composition according to the invention, these substances are dissolved beforehand in the oil which is to be added to the dispersion of small lipid spheres. Amongst these liposoluble active cosmetic substances, there may be mentioned, in particular, anti-sunburn filters such as 2-ethylhexyl paradimethylaminobenzoate, or substances for improving the condition of dry or old skin, in particular unsaponifiable substances such as those derived from soya and from avocado, tocopherols, vitamins E and F and antioxidants.

The oil-in-water dispersion which constitutes the external medium of the dispersion of small spheres can contain at least one additive, in particular a gelling agent or a perfume. The additive can be added to the dispersion at the same time as the oil. The gelling agent can be introduced at a concentration of, say, 0.1 to 2%, these percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amongst the gelling agents which can be used, there may be mentioned cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, synthetic polymers, algae derivatives such as satiagum, and natural gums such as tragacanth. Hydroxyethylcellulose, a mixture of carboxyvinylic acids commercially available under the name "Carbopol 940" satiagum and tragacanth are preferably used as gelling agents.

The non-ionic amphiphilic lipids which are to constitute the concentric laminae of the small spheres in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are typically: linear or branched polyglycerol ethers or esters of the formulae respectively: R~(OCH2CHOH~CH2)n OH and <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00020001" />

in which formulae n is a number from 2 to 6 and R represents a linear or branched saturated aliphatic chain containing from 16 to 20 carbon atoms or the hydrocarbon radical of a lanolin alcohol; and polyoxyethyleneated sterols.

At the moment of formation of the plane lamellar phase obtained by bringing the non-ionic amphiphilic lipids into contact with the aqueous phase to be encapsulated, various auxiliary agents can be associated with the said lipids in order to modify, for example, the permeability or the surface charge of the small spheres.For this purpose, there may be mentioned the optional addition of long chain alcohols and diols, sterols, in particular cholesterol and s-sitosterol, long-chain amines and their quaternary ammonium derivatives, in particular didodecyldimethylammonium bromide, hydroxyalkylamines, polyoxyethyleneated fatty amines, long-chain aminoalcohol esters and their salts and quaternary ammonium derivatives, phosphoric acid esters of fatty alcohols, in particular dicetyl phosphate, alkyl-sulphates, for example sodium cetyl-sulphate, and certain polymers such as polypeptides and proteins.

Apart from the auxiliary agents listed above, it is possible to add a preservative such as methyl parahydroxybenzoate.

The aqueous phase whether internal or external, can contain a water-soluble cosmetic substance normally used for the care of the face, the hands or the body. Amongst these substances, there may be mentioned humectants such a glycerol, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, inositol and pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and its salts, artificial tanning agents such as dihydroxyacetone, erythruiose, glyceraldehyde and ydialdehydes such as tartaraldehyde, skin-colouring agents, sun filters, anti-perspirants, deodorants, astringents, freshening-up products, tonics, cicatrising agents, keratolytic agents, depilatories, perfumed waters, extracts from animal or plant tissues, such as proteins, amniotic liquid and polysaccharides, and antiseborrheic agents.

The following Examples further illustrate the present invention.

The cosmetic formulations given in the Examples below are prepared in two stages. In a first stage, an aqueous dispersion is produced in accordance with the process described in French Patent 2,31 5,991.The aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres is prepared from: a non-ionic amphiphilic lipid; sterols such as cholesterol or #-sitosternl; optionally, dicetyl phosphate; optionally, active cosmetic substances of a water-soluble nature; and demineralised water which can contain a preservative.

In a second stage, oil is added and dispersed by intense mechanical agitation at ambient temperature and preferably at a temperature of about 400C. It is during this second stage that liposoluble cosmetic substances, perfumes and/or gelling agents can optionally be incorporated.

Example 1 Experiments for comparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention with a cosmetic composition of a known type.

Two compositions (A) and (B) are prepared; they are strictly identical, the only difference being that the preparation of composition (B) does not comprise a second stage for the addition of oil.

Composition (A) contains the following ingredients: 1 st stage Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of the formula: <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00030001" />

in which R is a hexadecyl radical and has an average statistical value of 3 3.8 g p-Sitosterol 3.8 g Diceyl phosphate 0.4g Methyl para-hydroxybenzoate 0.3 g Demineralised water 66.7 g 2nd stage 25 g of sunflower oil are added to the above dispersion; the whole is subjected to mechanical agitation in order to obtain the final dispersion.

Cosmetic composition (B) is prepared in the same manner, but without a second stage for the addition of sunflower oil, the 25 g of oil being replaced in this case by an identical amount of demineralised water.

Cosmetic composition (A) consequently differs from cosmetic composition (B) in that it contains 25% of sunflower oil.

1) Measurements of the Coefficient of Friction of the Skin During the Spreading of Cosmetic Compositions (A) and (B) The coefficient of friction of the skin during the spreading of cosmetic compositions (A) or (B) is measured on the forearm of a subject with the aid of a sensor driven with a rotational movement; the change in the opposing couple in the region of the sensor, during its rotation about itself, is recorded; the sensor is applied with a constant force (20 or 50 g).

The following results are obtained: <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00040001" />

<tb> <SEP> Variation <SEP> in <SEP> the <SEP> coefficient <SEP> of <tb> <SEP> friction <SEP> of <SEP> the <SEP> skin, <tb> <SEP> measured <SEP> 15minutes <tb> <SEP> after <SEP> application <tb> <SEP> ; <SEP> Under <SEP> å <SEP> force <SEP> &verbar;<SEP> Under <SEP> a <SEP> force <tb> <SEP> of <SEP> 20 <SEP> g <SEP> l <SEP> of <SEP> 50 <SEP> g <tb> Composition <SEP> (B) <SEP> +209 <SEP> l <SEP> <SEP> +245 <tb> Composition <SEP> according <SEP> ~40 <SEP> <SEP> - <SEP> <SEP> 60 <tb> <SEP> to <SEP> the <SEP> invention <tb> <SEP> (containing <SEP> 25% <SEP> of <tb> <SEP> sunflower <SEP> oil) <tb> It is observed that composition (B), that is to say the aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres which does not contain oil, substantially increases the coefficient of friction of the skin, whereas composition (A) according to the invention, that is to say a dispersion of small spheres which does contain oil, produces the opposite effect.This significant lowering of the coefficient of friction of the skin results, in cosmetic terms, in the softness effect provided by formulation (A) according to the invention.

2) Measurement of the Modulus of Elasticity of Human Stratum Corneum, Carried out in Vitro Before and After Application of Cosmetic Compositions (A) and (B) Above These measurements were carried out on a laboratory apparatus for measuring the modulus of elasticity of the skin. A laboratory apparatus of this type is described in British Specification No.

2029018.

The experimental conditions are as follows: relative humidity: 72%+2 temperature: 300C+0.2 amount of product applied: 5 mg/cm2 The following results are obtained: <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00040002" />

<tb> <SEP> Average <SEP> % <SEP> reduction <SEP> in <SEP> the <tb> <SEP> modulus <SEP> of <SEP> elasticity <tb> <SEP> 1 <SEP> 1 <SEP> hour30 <SEP> <SEP> minutes <SEP> after <tb> <SEP> Products <SEP> Tested <SEP> \ <SEP> <SEP> application <tb> Composition <SEP> (B) <SEP> | <SEP> <SEP> 0 <tb> Composition <SEP> (A) <SEP> according <tb> <SEP> to <SEP> the <SEP> invention <SEP> j <SEP> +15 <tb> The above results show clearly the difference in suppleness of the cornea, according to whether a dispersion of small spheres without an oily phase or a dispersion of small spheres with an oily phase is applied thereto.

Example 2 Body-care Fluid 1 st stage As indicated above, an aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres is produced from the following substances: Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of the general formula <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00040003" />

in which R is a hexadecyl radical and has an average statistical value of 3 4.5 g #-Sitosternl 4.5 g Dicetyl phosphate 1.0 g Methyl para-hydroxybenzoate 0.3 g Sodium salt of pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid 2.0 g Dimineralised water 56.5 g 2nd stage The following substances are added to the dispersion of small spheres obtained in the 1 st stage:: <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00050001" />

<tb> <SEP> Perfume <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> g <tb> <SEP> Sunflower <SEP> oil <SEP> 10.0 <SEP> g <tb> f <SEP> Mixture <SEP> of <SEP> carboxyvinylic <SEP> acids <SEP> marketed <SEP> under <SEP> the <SEP> name <SEP> "Carbopol <SEP> 940" <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> g <tb> <SEP> Triethanolamine <SEP> 0.4g <tb> <SEP> Demineralised <SEP> water <SEP> 20.0 <SEP> g <tb> Example 3 Face-care Fluid 1 st stage As indicated above, an aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres is produced from the following I substances:: Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of the general formula <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00050002" />

in which R is a hexadecyl radical and n has a value of 2 6.0 g Cholesterol 1.6 g Dicetyl phosphate 0.4 g Methyl para-hydroxybenzoate 0.3 g Demineralised water 61.1 g 2nd stage The following substances are added to the dispersion of small spheres obtained in the 1 st stage:: <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00050003" />

<tb> Perfume <SEP> 0.2 <SEP> g <tb> Grapeseed <SEP> oil <SEP> 20.0 <SEP> g <tb> Mixture <SEP> of <SEP> carboxyvinylic <SEP> acids <SEP> marketed <SEP> under <SEP> the <SEP> name <SEP> "Carbopol <SEP> 940" <SEP> 0.2 <SEP> g <tb> Triethanolamine <SEP> <SEP> 0.2 <SEP> g <tb> Demineralised <SEP> water <SEP> 10.0 <SEP> g <tb> Example 4 Hand-care Fluid 1 sot stage As indicated above, an aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres is produced from the following substances: Polyoxyethyleneated phytosterols (statistical average value of 5 for the oxyethylene units) 6.0 g Cholesterol 2.0 g Methyl para-hydroxybenzoate 0.3 g Demineralised water 45.7 g 2nd stage The following substances are added to the dispersion of small spheres obtained in the 1 st stage:: <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00050004" />

<tb> Perfume <SEP> 0.2 <SEP> g <tb> Jojoba <SEP> oil <SEP> 25.0 <SEP> g <tb> Mixture <SEP> of <SEP> carboxyvinylic <SEP> acids <SEP> marketed <SEP> under <SEP> the <SEP> name <SEP> "Carbopol <SEP> 940" <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> g <tb> Triethanolamine <SEP> 0.4g <SEP> <tb> Demineralised <SEP> water <SEP> 20.0 <SEP> g <tb> Example 5 Body-care Fluid 1 st stage As indicated above, an aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres is produced from the following substances: Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of the general formula <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00050005" />

in which R is a hexadecyl radical and ri has an average statistical value of 3 4.0 g Cholesterol 4.0 g Methyl para-hydroxybenzoate 0.3 g Demineralised water 45.5 g 2nd stage The following substances are added to the dispersion of small spheres obtained in the 1 st stage:: <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00060001" />

<tb> <SEP> Perfume <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> o4 <SEP> g <tb> <SEP> Maize <SEP> oil <SEP> 25.0g <SEP> <tb> Mixture <SEP> of <SEP> carboxyvinylic <SEP> acids <SEP> marketed <SEP> under <SEP> the <SEP> name <SEP> "Carbopol <SEP> 940" <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> g <tb> <SEP> Triethanolamine <SEP> <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> g <tb> <SEP> Demineralised <SEP> water <SEP> 20.0 <SEP> g <tb> Example 6 Face-care Fluid Iststage As indicated above, an aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres is produced from the following substances:: Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of the general formula <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00060002" />

in which R is a hexadecyl radical and ri has an average statistical value of 3 0.95 g ,B-Sitosterol 0.95 g Dicetyl phosphate 0.10g Methyl para-hydroxybenzoate 0.30 g Demineralised water 64.80 g 2nd stage The following substances are added to the dispersion of small spheres obtained in the 1 st stage:: <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00060003" />

<tb> Perfume <SEP> 0.4g <SEP> <tb> Soya <SEP> oil <SEP> 10.0 <SEP> g <tb> U <SEP> nsaponifiable <SEP> <SEP> substances <SEP> derived <SEP> from <SEP> soya <SEP> 2.0 <SEP> g <tb> Hydrnxyethylcellulose <SEP> <SEP> marketed <SEP> under <SEP> the <SEP> name <SEP> "Natrosol <SEP> 250 <SEP> HHR" <SEP> 0.5 <SEP> g <tb> Demineralised <SEP> water <SEP> 20.0 <SEP> g <tb> Example 7 Anti-sunburn Fluid 1 st stage As indicated above, an aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres is produced from the following substances:: Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of the general formula <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00060004" />

in which R is a hexadecyl radical and ri has an average statistical value of 3 3.6 g /3-Sitosterol 3.6 g Didodecyldimethylammonium bromide 0.8 g Methyl para-hydroxybenzoate 0.3 g Demineralised water 45.9 g 2nd stage The following substances are added to the dispersion of small spheres obtained in the 1 st stage:: <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00060005" />

<tb> <SEP> Perfume <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> g <tb> <SEP> Gourd <SEP> oil <SEP> 22.0g <SEP> <tb> 2-Ethylhexyl <SEP> <SEP> para-dimethylaminobenzoate <SEP> 3.0 <SEP> g <tb> <SEP> Gumtragacanth <SEP> <SEP> 0.4g <SEP> <tb> <SEP> Demineralised <SEP> water <SEP> 20.0 <SEP> g <tb> Example 8 Hand-care Fluid 1 st stage As indicated above, an aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres is produced from the following substances:: Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of the general formula <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00070001" />

in which R is a hexadecyl radical and ri has an average statistical value of 3 3.8 g /3-Sitosterol 3.8 g Dicetyl phosphate 0.4 g Methyl para-hydroxybenzoate 0.3 g Glycerol 3.0 g Demineralised water 42.5 g 2nd stage The following substances are added to the dispersion of small spheres obtained in the 1 st stage: <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00070002" />

<tb> Perfume <SEP> <tb> Purcellin <SEP> oil <SEP> 25.0 <SEP> g <tb> Satiagum <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> g <tb> Demineralised <SEP> water <SEP> 20.0 <SEP> g <tb> Example 9 Body-care Fluid 1 sot stage As indicated above, an aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres is produced from the following substances:: Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of the general formula <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00070003" />

in which R is a hexadecyl radical and ri has an average statistical value of 3 3.8 g /3-Sitosterol 3.8 g Dicetyl phosphate 0.4g Methyl para-hydroxybenzoate 0.3 g Demineralised water 60.5 g 2nd stage The following substances are added to the dispersion of small spheres obtained in the 1 st stage: : <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00070004" />

<tb> Perfume <SEP> 0.4g <SEP> <tb> Glycerol <SEP> tricaprocaprylate <SEP> 10.0 <SEP> g <SEP> <tb> Mixture <SEP> of <SEP> carboxylvinylic <SEP> acids <SEP> marketed <SEP> under <SEP> the <SEP> name <SEP> "Carbopol <SEP> 940" <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> g <tb> Triethanolamine <SEP> <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> g <tb> Demineralised <SEP> water <SEP> 20.0 <SEP> g <tb> Example 10 Face-care Cream 1 sot stage As indicated above, an aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres is produced from the following substances: : Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of the general formula <img class="EMIRef" id="027382669-00070005" />

in which R is a hexadecyl radical and ri has an average statistical value of 3 3.8 g #Sitosternl 3.8 g Dicetyl phosphate Preservative 0.3 g Demineralised water 47.6 g 2nd stage The following substances are added to the dispersion of small spheres obtained in the 1 st stage: Sunflower oil 35.0 g Perfume 0.6 g Mixture of carboxyvinylic acids marketed under the name "Carbopol 940" 0.2 g Triethanolamine 0.2 g Demineralised water 8.1 g

Claims (15)

Claims
1. A composition suitable for use in cosmetics which is in the form of an aqueous dispersion of small spheres composed of organised molecular layers between which an internal aqueous phase is encapsulated, these layers comprising at least one non-ionic amphiphilic lipid, the external aqueous phase containing at least one oil which is a fatty acid ester of a polyol, or a fatty acid ester of a branched alcohol, of the formula R--COOR', in which formula R represents the radical of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and R' represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms.
2. A composition according to claim 1 in which the fatty acid ester of a polyol is sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, gourd oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil or glycerol tricaprocaprylate.
3. A composition according to claim 1 in which the fatty acid ester of a branched alcohol is purcellin oil.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 which contains from 2 to 10% of nonionic amphiphilic lipid constituting the walls of the small spheres, and from 2 to 40% of dispersed oil, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the ratio by weight of non-ionic amphiphilic lipid, relative to the dispersed oil, being from 0.2:1 to 1:1.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in which the external phase contains from 0.1 to 2% by weight of gelling agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. A composition according to claim 5 in which the gelling agent is a cellulose derivative, synthetic polymer, algae derivative~or a natural gum.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in which the external phase contains at least one perfume and/or one or more liposoluble cosmetic substances.
8. A composition according to claim 7 in which the liposoluble cosmetic substance is an antisunburn filter, a substance for improving the condition of dry or old skin, or an antioxidant.
9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in which the non-ionic amphiphilic lipid is linear or branched polyglycerol ether or ester of the formulae respectively: R~(OCH2CHOHCH2)n~OH or <img class="EMIRef" id="027382670-00080001" />
in which formulae n is a number from 2 to 6 and R represents a linear or branched saturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 6 to 20 carbon atoms or a hydrocarbon radical of a lanolin alcohol; or a polyoxyethyleneated sterol.
10. A composition according to claim 9 in which the non-ionic amphiphilic lipid is mixed with at least one of a long-chain alcohol or diol, a sterol, a long-chain amine or a quaternary ammonium derivative thereof, a hydroxyalkylamine, a polyoxyethyleneated fatty amine, a long-chain aminoalcohol ester or a salt or quaternary ammonium derivative thereof, a polymer or a phosphoric acid ester of a fatty alcohol.
1 A composition according to claim 10 in which the non-ionic amphiphilic lipid is mixed with at least one of cholesterol, '3-sitosterol and dicetyl phosphate.
12. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 in which the internal aqueous phase or the external phase contains at least one water-soluble cosmetic substance.
13. A composition according to claim 12 in which the water-soluble cosmetic substance is a humectant, an artificial tanning agent, a skin-colouring agent, sun filter, antiperspirant, deodorant, astringent, freshening-up product, tonic, cicatrising agent, keratolytic agent, depilatory, perfumed water, an animal or plant tissue extract or an antiseborrheic agent.
14. A composition according to claim 13 in which the water-soluble substance is glycerol, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, inositol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid or a salt thereof, dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, glyceraldehyde, tartaraldehyde, a protein, polysaccharide or aminiotic liquid.
15. A composition according to claim 1 substantially as described in any one of Examples 1 to 10. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
GB8120182A 1980-07-01 1981-06-30 Cosmetic composition based on an aqueous dispersion of small lipid spheres Expired GB2079179B (en)

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BE (2) BE889451A (en)
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GB2102290A (en) * 1981-07-23 1983-02-02 Oreal Jojoba oil containing cosmetic compositions
US4777035A (en) * 1985-11-15 1988-10-11 Bristol-Myers Company Antiperspirant composition and process
US4830857A (en) * 1984-10-24 1989-05-16 L'oreal Cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions containing niosomes and a water-soluble polyamide, and a process for preparing these compositions
US4855090A (en) * 1987-03-13 1989-08-08 Micro-Pak, Inc. Method of producing high aqueous volume multilamellar vesicles
US4911928A (en) * 1987-03-13 1990-03-27 Micro-Pak, Inc. Paucilamellar lipid vesicles
US4917951A (en) * 1987-07-28 1990-04-17 Micro-Pak, Inc. Lipid vesicles formed of surfactants and steroids
US5000960A (en) * 1987-03-13 1991-03-19 Micro-Pak, Inc. Protein coupling to lipid vesicles
WO1991004731A1 (en) * 1989-09-21 1991-04-18 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Liposomal cleaner
US5019392A (en) * 1988-03-03 1991-05-28 Micro-Pak, Inc. Encapsulation of parasiticides
US5023086A (en) * 1987-03-13 1991-06-11 Micro-Pak, Inc. Encapsulated ionophore growth factors
US5032457A (en) * 1988-03-03 1991-07-16 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Paucilamellar lipid vesicles using charge-localized, single chain, nonphospholipid surfactants
US5160669A (en) * 1988-03-03 1992-11-03 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Method of making oil filled paucilamellar lipid vesicles
US5213805A (en) * 1991-07-25 1993-05-25 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Lipid vesicles having n,n-dimethylamide derivatives as their primary lipid
US5234767A (en) * 1987-03-13 1993-08-10 Micro-Pak, Inc. Hybrid paucilamellar lipid vesicles
US5256422A (en) * 1991-03-28 1993-10-26 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Lipid vesicle containing water-in-oil emulsions
US5260065A (en) * 1991-09-17 1993-11-09 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Blended lipid vesicles
US5405615A (en) * 1991-09-17 1995-04-11 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Sucrose distearate lipid vesicles
US5628936A (en) * 1987-03-13 1997-05-13 Micro-Pak, Inc. Hybrid paucilamellar lipid vesicles
US6051250A (en) * 1993-02-12 2000-04-18 L'oreal Process for the stabilization of vesicles of amphiphilic lipid(s) and composition for topical application containing the said stabilized vesicles
US6110492A (en) * 1997-05-28 2000-08-29 Jenner Biotherapies, Inc. Immunogenic compositions
US6132763A (en) * 1988-10-20 2000-10-17 Polymasc Pharmaceuticals Plc Liposomes
US6844009B1 (en) * 1999-03-16 2005-01-18 Capsulis Media in the form of complex dispersions, method for preparing same and uses
US9139850B2 (en) 2005-05-19 2015-09-22 L'oreal Vectorization of dsRNA by cationic particles and topical use
US9549891B2 (en) 2012-03-19 2017-01-24 The Procter & Gamble Company Superabsorbent polymers and sunscreen actives for use in skin care compositions

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FR2655540B1 (en) * 1989-12-13 1994-02-11 Oreal Cosmetic composition for hair care and use of said composition.
FR2655542B1 (en) * 1989-12-13 1994-02-11 Oreal cosmetic composition for topical application containing essential oils.
FR2657607B1 (en) * 1990-01-30 1992-04-30 Durand Muriel Method for protection of dihydroxyacetone, dihydroxyacetone protected by this process and cosmetic product containing such protected dihydroxyacetone.
FR2722102B1 (en) 1994-07-11 1996-08-23 Cird Galderma Use of deformable hollow particles in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, containing fat
FR2723848B1 (en) 1994-08-31 1997-06-20 Oreal Cosmetic or dermatological composition containing extracts Plant encapsulated
FR2730928B1 (en) * 1995-02-23 1997-04-04 Oreal Composition based on lipid vesicles at acidic pH and its use in topical application
FR2742674B1 (en) * 1995-12-21 1998-02-06 Oreal stable dispersion of one immiscible phase with water in an aqueous phase by means of a silicone surfactant vesicles basic
DE19703368C1 (en) * 1997-01-30 1998-10-01 Klaus Dr Goebel Rapid production of homogeneous stable cream from storage-stable powder without mechanical work
DE50013433D1 (en) * 1999-07-13 2006-10-19 Clr Chemisches Lab Dr Kurt Ric Means UV radiation absorbing and / or reflecting action for protection against harmful UV radiation and strengthening the natural skin barrier
WO2005096711A3 (en) 2004-04-05 2005-12-15 Univ Kanagawa Emulsifying dispersants, method for emusification and dispersion with the same, emulsions, and emulsion fuels
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JP6274477B2 (en) * 2010-12-21 2018-02-07 学校法人神奈川大学 Method for producing an emulsifier for producing materials, emulsifiers manufacturing materials, and a method for manufacturing an emulsifier

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Cited By (26)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2102290A (en) * 1981-07-23 1983-02-02 Oreal Jojoba oil containing cosmetic compositions
US4830857A (en) * 1984-10-24 1989-05-16 L'oreal Cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions containing niosomes and a water-soluble polyamide, and a process for preparing these compositions
US4777035A (en) * 1985-11-15 1988-10-11 Bristol-Myers Company Antiperspirant composition and process
US5023086A (en) * 1987-03-13 1991-06-11 Micro-Pak, Inc. Encapsulated ionophore growth factors
US4911928A (en) * 1987-03-13 1990-03-27 Micro-Pak, Inc. Paucilamellar lipid vesicles
US5000960A (en) * 1987-03-13 1991-03-19 Micro-Pak, Inc. Protein coupling to lipid vesicles
US5234767A (en) * 1987-03-13 1993-08-10 Micro-Pak, Inc. Hybrid paucilamellar lipid vesicles
US5628936A (en) * 1987-03-13 1997-05-13 Micro-Pak, Inc. Hybrid paucilamellar lipid vesicles
US4855090A (en) * 1987-03-13 1989-08-08 Micro-Pak, Inc. Method of producing high aqueous volume multilamellar vesicles
US4917951A (en) * 1987-07-28 1990-04-17 Micro-Pak, Inc. Lipid vesicles formed of surfactants and steroids
US5019392A (en) * 1988-03-03 1991-05-28 Micro-Pak, Inc. Encapsulation of parasiticides
US5032457A (en) * 1988-03-03 1991-07-16 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Paucilamellar lipid vesicles using charge-localized, single chain, nonphospholipid surfactants
US5160669A (en) * 1988-03-03 1992-11-03 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Method of making oil filled paucilamellar lipid vesicles
US5019174A (en) * 1988-03-03 1991-05-28 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Removing oil from surfaces with liposomal cleaner
US6132763A (en) * 1988-10-20 2000-10-17 Polymasc Pharmaceuticals Plc Liposomes
WO1991004731A1 (en) * 1989-09-21 1991-04-18 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Liposomal cleaner
US5256422A (en) * 1991-03-28 1993-10-26 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Lipid vesicle containing water-in-oil emulsions
US5213805A (en) * 1991-07-25 1993-05-25 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Lipid vesicles having n,n-dimethylamide derivatives as their primary lipid
US5405615A (en) * 1991-09-17 1995-04-11 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Sucrose distearate lipid vesicles
US5260065A (en) * 1991-09-17 1993-11-09 Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. Blended lipid vesicles
US6051250A (en) * 1993-02-12 2000-04-18 L'oreal Process for the stabilization of vesicles of amphiphilic lipid(s) and composition for topical application containing the said stabilized vesicles
US6110492A (en) * 1997-05-28 2000-08-29 Jenner Biotherapies, Inc. Immunogenic compositions
US6844009B1 (en) * 1999-03-16 2005-01-18 Capsulis Media in the form of complex dispersions, method for preparing same and uses
US9139850B2 (en) 2005-05-19 2015-09-22 L'oreal Vectorization of dsRNA by cationic particles and topical use
US9549891B2 (en) 2012-03-19 2017-01-24 The Procter & Gamble Company Superabsorbent polymers and sunscreen actives for use in skin care compositions
US9839598B2 (en) 2012-03-19 2017-12-12 The Procter & Gamble Company Superabsorbent polymers and sunscreen actives for use in skin care compositions

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JPS5777613A (en) 1982-05-15 application
GB2079179B (en) 1984-03-07 grant
FR2485921B1 (en) 1983-07-22 grant
JPS5794326A (en) 1982-06-11 application
DE3125710C2 (en) 1988-09-22 grant
FR2485921A1 (en) 1982-01-08 application
CA1168158A (en) 1984-05-29 grant
JPH0210803B2 (en) 1990-03-09 grant
BE889452A (en) 1981-12-30 grant
JPS6333414B2 (en) 1988-07-05 grant
CA1168158A1 (en) grant
BE889452A1 (en) grant
BE889451A1 (en) grant
BE889451A (en) 1981-12-30 grant
DE3125710A1 (en) 1982-03-25 application

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