KR100262176B1 - A stick type lip-care compositions containing retinoid - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A stick type lip cosmetic composition is provided, which shows skin care effect on preventing lip wrinkles and improving rough lips by containing retinoid and/or ceramide derivatives, polyglyceryl-n-fatty acid ester, and vegetable triglycerides oil. CONSTITUTION: A manufacturing process for the stick type lip cosmetic composition comprises the steps of; 1) dissolving 0.2wt.% of N-stearoyl spingosin in 20.0wt.% of polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate uniformly; 2) mixing 3.0wt.% of paraffin wax, 15.0wt.% of candelilla wax, 12.0wt.% of vaseline, 27.0wt.% of hydrogenated oil, 2.0wt.% of liquid paraffin, 10.0wt.% of squalene, and 10.0wt.% of red iron oxide at 85deg.C, melting, and dispersing; 3) adding 2) to 1), dispersing in a short time, removing air bubbles, shaking slowly, and cooling; adding 0.1wt.% of retinol and a suitable amount of preservative and perfume, and molding in a stick form.

Description

A stick type lip-care compositions containing retinoid}

The present invention relates to a stick-type lip cosmetic composition, and more particularly, contains retinoids, or further contains ceramide derivatives, polyglyceryl-n-fatty acid esters, and vegetable triglyceride oils to prevent wrinkles and roughness of lips. It relates to a stick-type lip cosmetic composition having a skin care function.

The lips are one of the most wrinkled parts of the body and are always exposed to the outside. In particular, unlike the general skin structure, the stratum corneum is formed extremely thin, the natural moisturizing factor and the absolute amount of moisture, moisture evaporation rate is also several times faster than the skin. These factors can be seen that the health condition of the lips are severely affected by the external atmospheric conditions, and thus the lip cosmetics should also contain components in a manner different from the cosmetics introduced into the general skin. However, until now, cosmetics for lips have been limited to lipsticks, lip creams and lip gloss products, and their components have also neglected the function of keeping lips healthy.

Therefore, there is a demand for the development of a lip cosmetic that can overcome the elements of the moisture retention function, the lack of natural moisturizing factors, the resistance to external climate due to the thin skin structure.

In addition, lipstick, which is a major product of point makeup on the lip area, affects the formation of wrinkles around the lips and numerous lip tissues such as degreasing and dehydration due to contact with cosmetic ingredients applied to the lip area, changes in the external environment, and food. In particular, lips exposed to climates with severe crossover and seasonal changes are dry, and lip wrinkles are intensified due to lack of moisture and elasticity of the lips, causing serious health problems. Only lip balm, cream-type pallet type lip color and liquid type lip color products are available on the market, and lip anti-wrinkle stick cosmetics considering lip health have not been developed yet. It is true.

Therefore, the development of stick cosmetic lip cosmetics having a pharmacological effect to improve the lip wrinkles by leading to a strong lip safety and lip skin elasticity and tissues.

The point makeup cosmetics used for the lip tissues are stick-type lipsticks and lip-crosses containing very few pigments and no pigments. It is prepared by mixing with a waxy substance. Looking specifically at the components of such a lipstick, wax components such as candelillan, carnauba wax, paraffin; Liquid oil components such as castor oil, palm oil, lanolin oil, lanolin derivatives; Pigment components composed of organic and inorganic pigments; It consists of various additives such as antioxidants, fragrances, and preservatives.

However, it is known that lanolin and lanolin derivatives have skin side effects for certain populations. In addition, the pigment contains only a small amount of harmful heavy metals such as lead and arsenic. Therefore, these factors are the major detrimental factors for lip health, and the lips are constantly faced with roughness and wrinkle formation.

Therefore, conventionally, a lip cosmetic composition containing retinol ester derivatives, ascorbic acid and derivatives, tocopherol and derivatives, riboflavin and its derivatives, and oils as a lip cosmetic for preventing wrinkles of the lips is disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 4-117317. It is described in. However, in the lip cosmetic composition of Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. Hei 4-117317, the retinoid component is a retinol fatty acid ester, which is completely different from retinol, and is a component that has already lost its activity, and thus cannot function to prevent wrinkles of the retinol itself. Ascorbic acid, tocophenol, lanolin, riboflavin and its derivatives are not effective in preventing wrinkles and roughness of the lips because they are insufficient in stability problems and effects when introduced into a simple oily base. In addition, retinol is stabilized by containing a retinol, organic solvent, emulsifier, alkaline aqueous solution, cosmetics that can be used as anti-wrinkle cream, lip balm or acne treatment is known in French Patent 93-15862, stick type It is not used as a lip cosmetic but is to have an ointment or cream form for the purpose of preventing wrinkles of the lips while reducing the burden on the lips.

Accordingly, the present inventors have been studied to develop a stick-type lip cosmetics that can prevent wrinkles and roughness of the lips, paying attention to the fact that the retinoid component is effective for the aged skin by wrinkles, roughness, dryness, abnormal keratinization, etc. The present invention has been completed.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention relates to a stick-type lip cosmetic composition that can reduce lip irritation and prevent lip roughness and wrinkles.

In order to achieve the above object, the stick-type lip cosmetic composition of the present invention is characterized by containing a retinoid in an amount of 0.0001 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

In addition, the stick-type lip cosmetic composition of the present invention is 0.001 to 20% by weight of the ceramide derivative, 5.0 to 70% by weight of polyglyceryl-n- fatty acid ester and 0.1 to 80% by weight of vegetable triglyceride oil based on the total weight of the composition It is characterized by containing.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

In the cosmetics for lips of the present invention, the retinoid is a retinol, retinic acid, retinaldehyde or a mixture thereof, and is an effective material for aged skin by wrinkles, roughness, dryness, abnormal keratinization and the like. In particular, the retinoid is used in the present invention to promote the synthesis of protein of the dermis through the thin lip membrane to form a healthy and resilient lip tissue, the content of the amount of 0.0001 to 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Used.

The ceramide derivative used in the present invention is a substance prepared by alkylation of fatty acids to LCB (Long Chain sphingoid base; sphingosine, polypingosine) or by catalysis of natural enzyme. The structure maintains the stability of retinoids in the cosmetics itself and forms a double layer of the skin on the lips, effectively blocking the ineffective factors in and out of the skin of the lips, effectively maintaining the skin of the lips and controlling the skin penetration of the retinoids. It also plays a role in satisfying moisturizing function. Herein, the fatty acids include all C 8 to ₆₀ saturated, unsaturated, and structural isomers, and each fatty acid may include 0 to 2 hydroxyl groups.

That is, the ceramide derivative used in the stick-type lip cosmetics of the present invention is produced by the above-described method, and the kind thereof is not particularly limited. For example, N-stearoyl spingosine and N-oleoyl sping N-oleoyl sphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, palmitamihexahexadecanediol, α-hydroxy-stearoyl-phytosphingosine, ω-hydroxy-stearo Yl-phytosphingosine, N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (N-stearoyl-4D-hydroxysphingosine), N-2-hydroxystearoyl-phytosphingosine (2S, 3S, 4R) -2- (2-hydroxystearoylamido) -1,3,4-octadetanuriol), N-oleoyl-phytosphingosine (N-oleoyl-4D-hydride Roxifingosin). The ceramide derivative used in the lip cosmetics of the present invention is contained in an amount of 1.0 to 20.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

In addition, since the ceramide derivative of the present invention has a very strong crystallinity and shows compatibility with both aqueous and oily components, it is difficult to provide stability in a solid oily component. Therefore, the polyglyceryl-n-fatty acid ester may be used. It stabilizes the ceramide derivative so that the ceramide component is not crystallized and further stabilizes the retinoid due to the stabilization of the ceramide so that the retinoid component can be effectively delivered to the skin cells. In the polyglyceryl-n-fatty acid ester used in the lip cosmetics of the present invention, the polyglyceryl-n moiety is polymerized with n moles of glycerin and has a degree of polymerization of 2 to 5. And the fatty acid ester moiety includes all C _8-60 saturated, unsaturated and structural isomers.

That is, the kind of polyglyceryl-n-fatty acid ester used in this invention is not specifically limited, For example, polyglyceryl-2- triisostearate and polyglyceryl-2- distearate , Polyglyceryl-2-dioleate, polyglyceryl-2-trilaurate, polyglyceryl-2-dialcohol-stearate, polyglyceryl-3-triisostearate, and the like. The polyglyceryl-n-fatty acid ester used in the lip cosmetics of the present invention is contained in an amount of 5.0 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

In addition, the lip cosmetic composition of the present invention is a hypoallergenic vegetable triglyceride-based oil to the total weight of the composition in order to solve the problem of lip irritation caused by the use of lanolin-based oil that has been used to improve the moisturizing lip cosmetics It is used in the amount of 0.1 to 80% by weight. The type of vegetable triglyceride oil is not particularly limited, but for example, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, macadamia oil, palm oil, coconut oil or hydrogenated triglyceride type vegetable oil in which the crystallinity is increased by adding hydrogen to the vegetable oil. have.

In addition, the lip cosmetic composition of the present invention is a component contained in a conventional lip cosmetic composition, for example, fauna and mineral solid oil component; Paraffin, ester liquid oil-based component; Organic and inorganic pigments; Additives, such as antioxidants, preservatives, and fragrances, may be appropriately selected and added.

Hereinafter, the structure and the effect of the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Test Examples. The embodiments are exemplified to help the understanding of the configuration of the present invention, and the present invention is not limited to these embodiments.

<Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4>

ingredient Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 1. Paraffin Wax 3.0 3.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 20.0 20.0 2. Candelilla Wax 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 ­ 3. Vaseline 12.0 12.0 12.0 ­ ­ 30.0 30.0 4. Octyldodecanol ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ 5.0 5.0 5. Curing oil 37.0 27.0 27.0 2.0 12.0 5.0 5.0 6. Liquid paraffin 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 39.6 38.8 7. Lanolin Oil ­ ­ ­ 15.0 19.0 ­ ­ 8. Castor Oil ­ ­ ­ 40.0 40.0 ­ ­ 9. Squalane 20.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 ­ ­ 10.N-Stearoylsphingosine ­ 0.2 ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ 11.N-Oleooil Sphingosine ­ ­ 0.2 ­ ­ ­ ­ 12. Polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate ­ 20.0 ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ 13. Polyglyceryl-2-Distearate ­ ­ 20.0 ­ ­ ­ ­ 14. Retinol 0.2 0.1 0.2 ­ ­ ­ ­ 15. Retinol Palmitate ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ 0.1 ­ 16. Retinol acetate ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ 0.1 17. Ascorbyl Acetate ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ 0.1 ­ 18. Ascorbyl palmitate ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ 0.05 19. DL-β-tocopherol ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ 0.1 ­ 20. DL-γ-tocopherol ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ 0.5 21.Riboflavin Phosphate ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ 0.1 ­ 22. Riboflavin Sodium Phosphate ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ 0.5 23. Red Iron Oxide 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 ­ ­ ­ 24. Preservative q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s 25. Spices q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s

[Manufacturing method]

Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4

1) After weighing the raw materials 1-13 and the raw material 23, they were uniformly mixed, melted, and degassed at 85 ° C, and then gradually stirred and cooled.

2) Raw materials 14-22 and raw materials 24-25 were put into 1), and it shape | molded in the form of stick.

Examples 2 to 3

1) The raw materials 10-11 were dissolved uniformly in the raw materials 12-13.

2) The raw materials 1 to 9 and the raw materials 15 to 23 were mixed, melted and dispersed at 85 ° C., then added to 1), dispersed and degassed for a short time, and then stirred and cooled slowly.

3) Raw materials 14 and raw materials 24 to 25 were added to 2) and molded into a stick.

[Test Example]

The lip cosmetics of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were used for 300 women in their 30's and 40's for 2 weeks in a row for 2 months in which the lips were the most dry. Before and after the use of the video microscope (Video Microscope) using a photograph taken magnified 40 times the results were shown in Table 1.

In addition, lip skin irritation was evaluated based on the subjective judgment of the clinical subject, and the results are shown in Table 1.

Evaluation item Evaluation standard Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Rough lips ○ 167 211 233 27 58 30 60 △ 133 89 67 100 150 118 137 × 0 0 0 173 92 152 103 Lip wrinkle improvement ○ 169 205 227 20 32 80 140 △ 129 94 72 93 108 169 124 × 2 One One 187 160 51 36 Lip Skin Stimulation Occurrence 9 0 0 46 40 31 30 ○: Person whose lip state of subject was found to be improved. △: Person whose lip state of subject was not significantly changed ×: Person whose lip state of subject was worsened

From Table 1, Comparative Examples 1 to 4 did not show a large difference in the items of lip roughness, lip wrinkle improvement and lip skin irritation, but in Examples 1 to 3, the effects of lip roughness and lip wrinkle improvement were clearly seen. Able to know.

In particular, Examples 2 to 3 it can be seen that the effect of improving the roughness of the lips, lip wrinkles without any lip irritation than Example 1 containing only retinoids.

As can be seen from the above description, the retinoids contained in the lip cosmetics of the present invention can be applied to the lip skin, which is completely different from normal skin, to induce protein synthesis in the dermis, thereby improving the health and wrinkles of the lips.

Claims (6)

0.0001 to 10.0% by weight of the retinoid, 0.001 to 20.0% by weight of the ceramide derivative and polyglyceryl-n-fatty acid ester (where n is an integer of 2 to 5 as the degree of polymerization of glycerin) based on the total weight of the composition. Stick-type lip cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains in an amount of. The lip cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the retinoid is retinol, retinaldehyde, retinic acid or a mixture thereof. The stick type lip cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising 0.1 to 80.0% by weight of vegetable triglyceride oil based on the total weight of the composition. The method of claim 1, wherein the ceramide derivative is N-stearoyl sphingosine, N-oleoyl sphingosine, N- stearoyl dihydrosphingosine, palmitamidohexadecanediol (palmitamidohexadecanediol) ), α-hydroxy-stearoyl-phytosphingosine, ω-hydroxy-stearoyl-phytosphingosine, N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (N-stearoyl-4D-hydride) Roxifingosine), N-2-hydroxystearoyl-phytosphingosine (2S, 3S, 4R) -2- (2-hydroxystearoylamido) -1,3,4-octate Tantriol) or N-oleoyl-phytosphingosine (N-oleoyl-4D-hydroxysphingosine). The method of claim 1, wherein the polyglyceryl-n-fatty acid ester is polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-distearate, polyglyceryl-2-diolate, polyglyceryl- Stick-type lip cosmetic composition, characterized in that 2-trilaurate, polyglyceryl-2-dialcohol-stearate or polyglyceryl-3-triisostearate. According to claim 3, wherein the vegetable triglyceride oil is soybean oil, cottonseed oil, macadamia oil, palm oil, coconut oil or hydrogenated triglyceride type vegetable oil of which the crystallinity is increased by adding hydrogen to the vegetable oil Stick type lip cosmetic composition.