JP6738788B2 - Knitwear knitting method - Google Patents

Knitwear knitting method Download PDF

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JP6738788B2
JP6738788B2 JP2017226528A JP2017226528A JP6738788B2 JP 6738788 B2 JP6738788 B2 JP 6738788B2 JP 2017226528 A JP2017226528 A JP 2017226528A JP 2017226528 A JP2017226528 A JP 2017226528A JP 6738788 B2 JP6738788 B2 JP 6738788B2
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knitting
sleeve
needle bed
knitwear
stitches
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JP2019094594A (en
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岡本　一良
一良 岡本
善之 山田
善之 山田
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Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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Priority to KR1020180144975A priority patent/KR102069233B1/en
Priority to DE102018220133.1A priority patent/DE102018220133A1/en
Priority to CN201811412553.2A priority patent/CN109837649B/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/06—Non-run fabrics or articles

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)

Description

本発明は、横編機を用いて開き部を有するニットウェアを編成するためのニットウェアの編成方法に関する。 The present invention relates to a knitwear knitting method for knitting knitwear having an opening using a flat knitting machine.

横編機を用いて開き部を有するニットウェアを編成することが従来から行われている。例えば特許文献１には、身頃に開き部を有するカーディガンの編成方法が開示されている。特許文献１では、開き部を挟む左前立て部と右前立て部の編幅端部を突き合わせた状態で身頃を編成すると共に、身頃の左右に身頃と独立した左袖と右袖を編成し、カーディガンの脇の位置で身頃と両袖とを接合している。 Knitwear having an opening is knitted using a flat knitting machine. For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a method of knitting a cardigan having an opening on the body. In Patent Document 1, the body is knitted in a state where the knitting width end portions of the left placket part and the right placket part that sandwich the opening part are butted against each other, and the left sleeve and the right sleeve that are independent of the body part are knitted on the left and right of the body part, and a cardigan. The body and sleeves are joined at the side of.

ニットウェアでは、特許文献１の図１に示すように、身頃のほぼ真横の位置に袖を付けるか、特許文献１の図３に示すように、身頃の前寄りの位置に袖を付ける。特許文献１のニットウェアの編成方法では、特許文献１の図２，４に示すように、身頃の左前立て部と右前立て部の編幅端部同士を突き合わせた状態で編成しており、身頃に袖を接合する際、前後の針床上で身頃と袖とを回転させ、身頃の所定位置に袖を接合させている。 In the knitwear, as shown in FIG. 1 of Patent Document 1, a sleeve is attached at a position almost right next to the body, or as shown in FIG. 3 of Patent Document 1, a sleeve is attached at a position in front of the body. In the knitwear knitting method of Patent Document 1, as shown in FIGS. 2 and 4 of Patent Document 1, the knitting width ends of the left front stand portion and the right front stand portion of the body are knitted together, When the sleeves are joined to each other, the body and the sleeves are rotated on the front and rear needle beds to join the sleeves to predetermined positions on the body.

特許第４８５６６３５号公報Japanese Patent No. 4856635

特許文献１の編成方法では、身頃の左前立て部と右前立て部の編幅端部同士を突き合わせた状態のまま身頃と袖を接合している。そのため、特許文献１の図２，４に示すように、身頃を時計回りに回転させてから身頃と左袖とを接合した後、身頃と左袖の一体筒を反時計回りに回転させてから身頃と右袖とを接合する必要がある。この場合、特許文献１の図２，４の工程５に示されるように、上記一体筒を反時計回りに回転させたとき、身頃と左袖との接合部（図中のＹ−Ｚの部分）が編幅方向の左右に強く引っ張られる。ここで、身頃の左前立て部と右前立て部との重なり幅を大きくすると上記一体筒の回転量を多くする必要があるため、身頃と左袖との接合部で糸切れが生じ易くなる。 In the knitting method of Patent Document 1, the body and the sleeve are joined in a state in which the knitting width end portions of the left front upright portion and the right front upright portion are in contact with each other. Therefore, as shown in FIGS. 2 and 4 of Patent Document 1, after rotating the body clockwise, after joining the body and the left sleeve, after rotating the body-left sleeve integrated cylinder counterclockwise It is necessary to join the body and the right sleeve. In this case, as shown in Step 5 of FIGS. 2 and 4 of Patent Document 1, when the above-mentioned integral cylinder is rotated counterclockwise, the joint portion between the body and the left sleeve (YZ portion in the drawing). ) Is strongly pulled to the left and right in the knitting width direction. Here, if the overlapping width of the left front stand and the right front stand of the body is increased, it is necessary to increase the amount of rotation of the integral cylinder, and thus thread breakage easily occurs at the joint between the body and the left sleeve.

上記事情に鑑み、本願発明の目的の一つは、左前立て部と右前立て部との重なり幅を大きくしても身頃と袖とを接合する際に糸切れが生じ難いニットウェアの編成方法を提供することにある。 In view of the above circumstances, one of the objects of the present invention is to provide a knitwear knitting method in which thread breakage does not easily occur when joining a body and a sleeve even when the overlapping width between the left placket and the right placket is increased. To provide.

本発明のニットウェアの編成方法は、
対向する第一針床と第二針床とを備える横編機を用いて、
開き部を有する身頃に接続された左袖及び右袖を備え、前記身頃は、前記開き部を閉じたときに重ねられる左前立て部と右前立て部とを有するニットウェアを編成するにあたり、
前記ニットウェアの脇の位置まで、前記第一針床上で前記左前立て部と前記右前立て部の端部同士が突き合わされた状態で、前記第一針床と前記第二針床を用いて前記身頃をＣ字状に編成すると共に、前記第一針床と前記第二針床を用いて前記身頃と独立して前記左袖及び前記右袖を筒状に編成する工程Ａと、
前記脇の位置で前記身頃と前記左袖及び前記右袖とを接合する工程Ｂと、
前記ニットウェアにおける前記脇よりも上の部分をＣ字状に編成する工程Ｃと、を行なうニットウェアの編成方法において、
前記身頃のうち、前記工程Ｂの開始前に前記第一針床に係止される部分を第一編地部、前記第二針床に係止される部分を第二編地部としたとき、
前記工程Ｂは、
前記第二編地部の編幅方向の左端の編目を前記第一編地部の編幅方向の外側に回し込むことを複数回繰り返した後、前記第一針床で、前記回し込まれた複数の編目のうち、編幅方向の最も外側にある編目から順次、前記左袖の編目と接合する工程ｂ１と、
前記第二編地部の編幅方向の右端の編目を前記第一編地部の編幅方向の外側に回し込むことを複数回繰り返した後、前記第一針床で、前記回し込まれた複数の編目のうち、編幅方向の最も外側にある編目から順次、前記右袖の編目と接合する工程ｂ２と、
前記第一針床と前記第二針床のそれぞれで、前記身頃と前記左袖の近接する編目同士を接合する工程ｂ３と、
前記第一針床と前記第二針床のそれぞれで、前記身頃と前記右袖の近接する編目同士を接合する工程ｂ４と、を備える。 The knitwear knitting method of the present invention is
Using a flat knitting machine having a first needle bed and a second needle bed facing each other,
Including a left sleeve and a right sleeve connected to the body having an opening, the body, in knitting knitwear having a left placket and a right placket that are overlapped when the opening is closed,
Up to the side of the knitwear, in a state in which the end portions of the left fly stand and the right fly stand are abutted on the first needle bed, the first needle bed and the second needle bed are used to Step A of knitting the body in a C shape, and knitting the left sleeve and the right sleeve in a tubular shape independently of the body using the first needle bed and the second needle bed,
Step B of joining the body and the left sleeve and the right sleeve at the side position,
In the knitwear knitting method, the step C of knitting a portion of the knitwear above the side in a C shape is performed.
When the portion of the body that is locked to the first needle bed before the start of the step B is the first knitted fabric portion and the portion that is locked to the second needle bed is the second knitted fabric portion ,
The step B is
After repeating the winding of the stitch at the left end in the knitting width direction of the second knitted fabric portion to the outer side in the knitting width direction of the first knitted fabric portion a plurality of times, at the first needle bed, it was rolled in Of the plurality of stitches, a step b1 of sequentially joining the stitches on the left sleeve in order from the outermost stitch in the knitting width direction,
After repeating the winding of the stitch at the right end in the knitting width direction of the second knitted fabric portion to the outer side in the knitting width direction of the first knitted fabric portion a plurality of times, in the first needle bed, it was wound in A step b2 of sequentially joining the stitches of the right sleeve from the outermost stitch in the knitting width direction among the plurality of stitches;
A step b3 of joining adjacent stitches of the body and the left sleeve with each of the first needle bed and the second needle bed,
Step b4 of joining the adjacent stitches of the body and the right sleeve to each other on each of the first needle bed and the second needle bed.

ここで、工程ｂ１と工程ｂ２はどちらを先に行なっても良い。また、工程ｂ３は工程ｂ１の後であればいつ行なってもかまわないし、工程ｂ４は、工程ｂ２の後であればいつ行なってもかまわない。工程ｂ１〜ｂ４の順番としては、例えば、工程ｂ１→工程ｂ２→工程ｂ３→工程ｂ４の順、工程ｂ２→工程ｂ１→工程ｂ４→工程ｂ３の順、工程ｂ１→工程ｂ３→工程ｂ２→工程ｂ４の順などが挙げられる。 Here, either step b1 or step b2 may be performed first. Further, the step b3 may be performed at any time after the step b1, and the step b4 may be performed at any time after the step b2. The order of steps b1 to b4 is, for example, step b1→step b2→step b3→step b4, step b2→step b1→step b4→step b3, step b1→step b3→step b2→step b4. The order of is mentioned.

本発明のニットウェアの編成方法の一形態として、
前記左袖を回転させることなく、前記工程ｂ１及び前記工程ｂ３を行い、
前記右袖を回転させることなく、前記工程ｂ２及び前記工程ｂ４を行う形態を挙げることができる。 As one form of the knitwear knitting method of the present invention,
The step b1 and the step b3 are performed without rotating the left sleeve,
A mode in which the step b2 and the step b4 are performed without rotating the right sleeve can be mentioned.

本発明のニットウェアの編成方法の一形態として、
前記工程Ｃにおいて、前記身頃の編幅を徐々に減らし、前記開き部の間隔を広げる形態を挙げることができる。 As one form of the knitwear knitting method of the present invention,
In the step C, there may be mentioned a mode in which the knitting width of the body is gradually reduced and the gap between the open portions is widened.

本発明のニットウェアの編成方法によれば、左前立て部と右前立て部との重なり幅を大きくしても、身頃と袖とを接合する際に糸切れが生じ難い。特許文献１を含む従来の編成方法では、身頃に開口部があるにも関わらず、左前立て部と右前立て部の端部同士を突き合わせた状態で身頃と袖とを編成で接合している。つまり、従来の編成方法では、開口部を有さない身頃と同様に身頃と袖とを編成で接合していた。そのため、身頃と一方の袖との接合後に身頃と他方の袖とを接合する際、身頃と一方の袖との接合箇所が強く引っ張られる。これに対して、本発明のニットウェアの編成方法では、工程ｂ１と工程ｂ２のそれぞれにおいて、左前立て部と右前立て部とが編幅方向に重なることを許容し、従来技術で生じていた接合箇所の引っ張りを無くすことで、第一針床と第二針床とを相対的にラッキングさせても身頃と袖とを無理なく接合できる。また、身頃と左袖（右袖）との接合を、工程ｂ１（ｂ２）と工程ｂ３（ｂ４）の二段階に分割して、各工程における編糸の負担を減らすことで、両前立て部の重なり幅を大きくしても、糸切れを生じ難くできる。 According to the knitwear knitting method of the present invention, even if the overlapping width between the left placket and the right placket is increased, yarn breakage is unlikely to occur when the body and the sleeve are joined. In the conventional knitting method including Patent Document 1, the body and the sleeve are joined by knitting in a state where the ends of the left front stand and the right front stand are in contact with each other, even though the body has an opening. That is, in the conventional knitting method, the body and the sleeve are joined by knitting in the same manner as the body having no opening. Therefore, when the body and the other sleeve are joined together after the body and the one sleeve are joined, the joint portion between the body and the one sleeve is strongly pulled. On the other hand, in the knitwear knitting method of the present invention, in each of the step b1 and the step b2, the left placket portion and the right placket portion are allowed to overlap in the knitting width direction, and the joining that occurs in the prior art is caused. By eliminating the tension at the location, the body and the sleeve can be joined comfortably even if the first needle bed and the second needle bed are relatively racked. In addition, the joining of the body and the left sleeve (right sleeve) is divided into two steps, step b1 (b2) and step b3 (b4), to reduce the burden of the knitting yarn in each step, so Even if the overlapping width is increased, yarn breakage can be made less likely to occur.

また、本発明のニットウェアの編成方法によれば、工程ｂ１，ｂ２における端部編目の回し込み数を多くすることで、身頃の前寄りの位置に袖を付けたニットウェアを編成することができる。つまり、本発明のニットウェアの編成方法では、端部編目の回し込み数を変化させるだけで、身頃のほぼ真横の位置に袖を付けたニットウェアと、身頃の前寄りの位置に袖を付けたニットウェアと、を編み分けることができる。これに対して、特許文献１では、身頃のほぼ真横の位置に袖を付けたニットウェアと、身頃の前寄りの位置に袖を付けたニットウェアと、で袖の前後の境界位置の設定を変更しなければならず、その変更作業が煩雑である（特許文献１の図２，４に示される境界部Ｘ，Ｙを参照）。 Further, according to the knitwear knitting method of the present invention, by increasing the number of turns of the end stitches in the steps b1 and b2, it is possible to knit the knitwear in which the sleeve is attached to the front position of the body. it can. In other words, in the knitwear knitting method of the present invention, by changing the number of turns of the end stitches, the knitwear in which the sleeve is placed almost right next to the body and the sleeve in the front position of the body are attached. It is possible to knit different types of knitwear. On the other hand, in Patent Document 1, the boundary positions before and after the sleeve are set by the knitwear in which the sleeve is attached to a position almost right beside the body and the knitwear in which the sleeve is attached at a position close to the front of the body. It has to be changed, and the changing work is complicated (see boundary portions X and Y shown in FIGS. 2 and 4 of Patent Document 1).

工程ｂ１〜ｂ４を通じて袖を回転させない本発明のニットウェアの編成方法によれば、袖を回転させるための目移しやラッキング、捻り目の形成が不要となるので、ニットウェアの生産性を向上させることができる。袖を回転させずに袖と身頃とを接合できるのは、工程ｂ１（ｂ２）において、身頃と袖との接合箇所である他側編地部の編目を一側編地部の側に回し込んでから、その回し込んだ編目を袖側に動かして身頃と左袖（右袖）とを接合するからである。また、工程ｂ３，ｂ４において、第一針床と第二針床のそれぞれで身頃と袖との接合を行なうことで、第一針床に係止される編目数と第二針床に係止される編目数との間に大きな差ができない。そのため、工程ｂ３，ｂ４においても袖を回転させる必要がない。 According to the knitwear knitting method of the present invention in which the sleeves are not rotated through the steps b1 to b4, transfer of the sleeves, racking, and formation of twists are not required, so that the productivity of the knitwear is improved. be able to. It is possible to join the sleeve and the body without rotating the sleeve by turning the stitches of the other side knitted fabric portion, which is the joining portion of the body and the sleeve, into the one side knitted fabric portion side in step b1 (b2). This is because the stitches that have been wound are moved to the sleeve side to join the body and the left sleeve (right sleeve). In steps b3 and b4, the number of stitches locked to the first needle bed and the number of stitches locked to the second needle bed are performed by joining the body and the sleeve to each of the first needle bed and the second needle bed. There is no big difference between the number of stitches and the number of stitches. Therefore, it is not necessary to rotate the sleeve in steps b3 and b4.

身頃と袖との接合にあたって袖を回転させない本発明のニットウェアの編成方法によれば、袖に組織柄を形成し易い。袖の外方側の端部編目を回し込むことがないため、袖に形成した組織柄が乱れることがないからである。ここで、工程ｂ１，ｂ２において身頃の第二編地部の端部編目（左側の編目及び右側の編目）を回し込みしているが、その端部編目は袖と接合されてニットウェアの脇に隠れて目立たないため、身頃の組織柄が乱れるという問題は生じない。 According to the knitwear knitting method of the present invention in which the sleeve is not rotated when joining the body and the sleeve, it is easy to form a texture pattern on the sleeve. This is because the outer side end stitches of the sleeve are not turned in and the texture pattern formed on the sleeve is not disturbed. Here, in the steps b1 and b2, the end stitches (the left stitch and the right stitch) of the second knitted fabric portion of the body are sewn in, and the end stitches are joined to the sleeves and the sides of the knitwear are joined. Since it is hidden by and is inconspicuous, there is no problem that the organizational pattern of the body is disturbed.

工程Ｃで開き部の間隔を広げる本発明のニットウェアの編成方法によれば、脇よりも上方の位置に前下がりの下端が配置されたニットウェア、例えばスクエアネックやラウンドネックのニットウェアを編成できる。 According to the knitwear knitting method of the present invention in which the interval between the open portions is widened in the step C, knitwear in which the front lower end is arranged at a position above the side, such as a square neck or round neck knitwear, is knitted. it can.

実施形態１に係るニットウェアの概略図である。1 is a schematic diagram of knitwear according to Embodiment 1. FIG. 実施形態１に係るニットウェアの編成工程のイメージ図である。FIG. 3 is an image diagram of a knitwear knitting process according to the first embodiment.

以下、本発明の編地の編成方法の実施形態を図面に基づいて説明する。 Hereinafter, an embodiment of a knitting method of a knitted fabric of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

＜実施形態１＞
実施形態１では、横編機を用いてカーディガン（ニットウェア）を編成する例を説明する。本例で使用する横編機は、２枚ベッド横編機であるが、４枚ベッド横編機でも良い。さらに、横編機に備わる編針は、べら針でも良いし、複合針でも良い。複合針としては、スライダーの先端に形成されるタングに編目を一時的に保持できるホールディング機能を持った複合針が好適である。 <Embodiment 1>
In the first embodiment, an example of knitting a cardigan (knitwear) using a flat knitting machine will be described. The flat knitting machine used in this example is a two-bed flat knitting machine, but may be a four-bed flat knitting machine. Further, the knitting needles provided in the flat knitting machine may be latch needles or compound needles. As the compound needle, a compound needle having a holding function capable of temporarily holding the stitch on the tongue formed at the tip of the slider is suitable.

≪ニットウェア≫
図１に示すカーディガン（ニットウェア）１は、身頃２と、その身頃２に接続された左袖３及び右袖４と、を備える。本例の身頃２は、後身頃２Ｂと、左前身頃２ＦＬと、右前身頃２ＦＲと、で構成されている。後身頃２Ｂの左端（紙面上は右端）と左前身頃２ＦＬの左端とは繋がっており、後身頃２Ｂの右端（紙面上は左端）と右前身頃２ＦＲの右端とは繋がっている。一方、左前身頃２ＦＬの右端と右前身頃２ＦＲの左端とは繋がっておらず、左前身頃２ＦＬと右前身頃２ＦＲとの間には開き部２０が形成されている。左前身頃２ＦＬの右端には左前立て部２３が形成され、右前身頃２ＦＲの左端には右前立て部２４が形成されている。左前立て部２３と右前立て部２４とは、カーディガン１の着用時に重ねられた状態で使用される。前立て部２３，２４にはボタンとボタンホールなどが必要となるので、袋組織やリブ組織などを用いて他の部分よりも丈夫に形成することが好ましい。 ≪Knitwear≫
A cardigan (knitwear) 1 shown in FIG. 1 includes a body 2, and a left sleeve 3 and a right sleeve 4 connected to the body 2. The body 2 of this example includes a back body 2B, a left front body 2FL, and a right front body 2FR. The left end of the back body 2B (the right end on the paper surface) is connected to the left end of the left front body 2FL, and the right end of the back body 2B (the left end on the paper surface) is connected to the right end of the right front body 2FR. On the other hand, the right end of the left front body 2FL and the left end of the right front body 2FR are not connected, and an opening 20 is formed between the left front body 2FL and the right front body 2FR. A left front stand portion 23 is formed at the right end of the left front body 2FL, and a right front stand portion 24 is formed at the left end of the right front body 2FR. The left front stand portion 23 and the right front stand portion 24 are used in a state of being stacked when the cardigan 1 is worn. Since buttons and buttonholes are required for the placket portions 23 and 24, it is preferable to use a bag structure, a rib structure or the like to make them stronger than other parts.

≪編成方法≫
図１のカーディガン１を編成するにはまず、カーディガン１の脇１０の位置まで身頃２をＣ字状に編成すると共に、左袖３と右袖４とを筒状に編成する（工程Ａに相当）。次いで、脇１０の位置で身頃２と、左袖３及び右袖４と、を接合する（工程Ｂに相当）。そして、カーディガン１における脇１０よりも上の部分をＣ字状に編成する（工程Ｃに相当）。これら工程Ａ〜工程Ｃにより、カーディガン１は裾からネックホールに向かって編成される。つまり、図１においては、紙面左右方向が編幅方向、紙面上下方向がウエール方向となる。 ≪Composition method≫
In order to knit the cardigan 1 of FIG. 1, first, the body 2 is knitted to the side 10 of the cardigan 1 in a C shape, and the left sleeve 3 and the right sleeve 4 are knitted (corresponding to the step A ). Next, the body 2 is joined to the left sleeve 3 and the right sleeve 4 at the side 10 (corresponding to step B). Then, the portion of the cardigan 1 above the side 10 is knitted into a C shape (corresponding to step C). Through these steps A to C, the cardigan 1 is knitted from the hem toward the neck hole. That is, in FIG. 1, the lateral direction of the paper is the knitting width direction and the vertical direction of the paper is the wale direction.

カーディガン１の編成方法の各工程を、図２の編成工程図に基づいて詳細に説明する。図２の左側にあるＳ＋数字は編成工程の番号を、ＦＢは前針床（第一針床）を、ＢＢは後針床（第二針床）を示す。カーディガン１に備わる身頃２、袖３，４の前側編地部は中太線で、後側編地部は太線で示し、カーディガン１の着用時の前後の境界は短い棒線で示している。 Each step of the knitting method of the cardigan 1 will be described in detail with reference to the knitting process diagram of FIG. S+ numbers on the left side of FIG. 2 indicate knitting process numbers, FB indicates a front needle bed (first needle bed), and BB indicates a rear needle bed (second needle bed). The front knitted fabric portion of the body 2 and the sleeves 3 and 4 provided in the cardigan 1 is shown by a medium thick line, the back knitted fabric portion is shown by a thick line, and the front and back boundaries when the cardigan 1 is worn are shown by short bar lines.

Ｓ１には、脇１０（図１）の位置まで編成された身頃２と袖３，４とがＦＢとＢＢに係止された状態（本発明の工程Ａが終了した状態）が示されている。身頃２のうち、Ｓ１の時点でＦＢの係止される部分を第一編地部２１、ＢＢに係止される部分を第二編地部２２とする。この身頃２と袖３，４とは独立して編成されており、身頃２はＦＢとＢＢとを用いてＣ字状に、袖３，４はＦＢとＢＢとを用いて筒状に編成されている。身頃２は、ＦＢ上で左前立て部２３と右前立て部２４の端部同士が突き合わされた状態で編成されているため、身頃２の前後の境界はＢＢ側に配置されている。図１に示すように、両前立て部２３，２４は重ねられた状態で使用されるので、編成時の前後の境界は、図１の二点鎖線で示すように前身頃２ＦＬ，２ＦＲ側に位置する。 S1 shows a state in which the body 2 and the sleeves 3 and 4 knitted to the position of the armpit 10 (FIG. 1) are locked to the FB and the BB (state in which the process A of the present invention is completed). .. A portion of the body 2 at which the FB is locked at S1 is referred to as a first knitted fabric portion 21, and a portion of the body 2 is held at the BB is referred to as a second knitted fabric portion 22. The body 2 and the sleeves 3 and 4 are knitted independently. The body 2 is knitted using FB and BB, and the sleeves 3 and 4 are knitted using FB and BB. ing. Since the body 2 is knitted on the FB in a state where the end portions of the left ply portion 23 and the right ply portion 24 are butted against each other, the front and rear boundaries of the body 2 are arranged on the BB side. As shown in FIG. 1, since both placket parts 23, 24 are used in a state of being overlapped, the front and back boundaries at the time of knitting are located on the front body 2FL, 2FR side as shown by the chain double-dashed line in FIG. To do.

Ｓ１に示すように、ＦＢ上で左前立て部２３と右前立て部２４の端部同士を突き合わせた状態で編成することで、前立て部２３，２４の編目を粗くすることなく、前立て部２３，２４を編成できる。 As shown in S1, by knitting on the FB in a state where the ends of the left placket portion 23 and the right placket portion 24 are butted against each other, the placket portions 23, 24 can be formed without roughening the stitches of the placket portions 23, 24. Can be organized.

Ｓ２では、右袖４のうちのＦＢに係止される前側部分と、身頃２の右前身頃２ＦＲ（図１参照）のうちのＦＢに係止される部分をＢＢに移動させると共に、左袖３のうちのＢＢに係止される後側部分をＦＢに移動させる。更にＳ２では、身頃２の第二編地部２２の編幅方向の左端の編目を、第一編地部２１の編幅方向の外側に回し込むことを繰り返す（工程ｂ１の前半部分に相当）。このとき、身頃２の右端部分（紙面上左側）では回し込みを行なっていないため、左前立て部２３と右前立て部２４とはＦＢとＢＢとに分かれて重複され、身頃２の筒径が小さくなる。以降、ＦＢに回し込まれた複数の編目は左側接合編目５と呼ぶ。本例では、回し込みの繰り返し数、即ちＢＢからＦＢに回し込まれた左側接合編目５の数を、左前立て部２３の編幅方向の編目数の半分としている。この場合、身頃２のほぼ真横の位置に袖３を取り付けることができる。 In S2, the front part of the right sleeve 4 that is locked to the FB and the part of the right front body 2FR (see FIG. 1) of the body 2 that is locked to the FB are moved to the BB, and the left sleeve 3 The rear part of the above that is locked to BB is moved to FB. Further, in S2, the left end stitch in the knitting width direction of the second knitted fabric portion 22 of the body 2 is repeatedly wound into the outer side in the knitting width direction of the first knitted fabric portion 21 (corresponding to the first half of step b1). .. At this time, since the right end portion of the body 2 (the left side on the paper surface) is not rotated, the left front upright portion 23 and the right front upright portion 24 are divided into FB and BB, and the body 2 has a small cylinder diameter. Become. Hereinafter, the plurality of stitches fed into the FB will be referred to as the left side joint stitch 5. In this example, the number of repeated turns, that is, the number of left-side joined stitches 5 turned from BB to FB is set to be half the number of stitches in the knitting width direction of the left placket portion 23. In this case, the sleeve 3 can be attached at a position almost right beside the body 2.

ここで、ＢＢからＦＢに回し込まれた左側接合編目５の数を変化させることで、身頃２に対する袖３，４の取り付け位置を変化させることができる。 Here, by changing the number of the left side joint stitches 5 which are turned from BB to FB, the attachment positions of the sleeves 3 and 4 to the body 2 can be changed.

上述したように、両前立て部２３，２４は編幅方向に重複した状態になっている。本例のように２枚ベッド横編機でカーディガン１を編成する場合、隣接する編目の間に空針を設ける針抜き編成によってカーディガン１を編成することで、ＦＢとＢＢとに分かれて両前立て部２３，２４を重複させられる。４枚ベッド横編機でカーディガン１を編成する場合、いずれかの前立て部２３（２４）を一旦、上部針床に預けておけば良い。この場合、隣接する編目の間に空針を設けない総針編成でカーディガン１を編成できる。 As described above, both the placket portions 23 and 24 are in a state of overlapping in the knitting width direction. When knitting the cardigan 1 with a two-bed flat knitting machine as in this example, by knitting the cardigan 1 by needle knitting in which an empty needle is provided between adjacent stitches, it is divided into FB and BB. The parts 23 and 24 can be overlapped. When knitting the cardigan 1 with a four-bed flat knitting machine, one of the placket sections 23 (24) may be temporarily stored in the upper needle bed. In this case, the cardigan 1 can be knitted by a full needle knitting in which no empty needle is provided between the adjacent stitches.

Ｓ３では、ＦＢ上で、編幅方向の最も外側にある左側接合編目５から順次、左袖３の編目と接合する（工程ｂ１の後半部分に相当）。本例では左袖３を回転させることなく、身頃２と左袖３との接合を行なっている。具体的には、両前立て部２３，２４の重複を解消するように身頃２のうちのＦＢに係止される部分を左袖３側に移動させ、ＦＢに回し込んだ複数の左側接合編目５のうち、左袖３に近接する左側接合編目５から順に左袖３の編目（図中の三角印）に接続する。 In S3, the stitches on the left sleeve 3 are sequentially joined from the outermost left stitch 5 on the FB in the knitting width direction (corresponding to the latter half of the step b1). In this example, the body 2 and the left sleeve 3 are joined without rotating the left sleeve 3. Specifically, a plurality of left joint stitches 5 which are moved to the left sleeve 3 side by moving the portion of the body 2 that is locked to the FB so as to eliminate the overlap between the placket portions 23 and 24, and are wound into the FB. Among them, the left side joint stitches 5 adjacent to the left sleeve 3 are sequentially connected to the stitches of the left sleeve 3 (triangle marks in the figure).

Ｓ４では、Ｓ２でＢＢに預けておいた身頃２の右前身頃２ＦＲ（図１参照）をＦＢに移動させると共に、ＦＢに係止される左前身頃２ＦＬ（図１参照）と左袖３の前側部分をＢＢに移動させる。更にＳ４では、第二編地部２２の編幅方向の右端の編目を、第一編地部２１の編幅方向の外側に回し込むことを繰り返す（工程ｂ２の前半部分に相当）。このとき、身頃２と左袖３の一体筒の左端部分では回し込みを行なっていないため、左前立て部２３と右前立て部２４とはＦＢとＢＢとに分かれて重複され、身頃２の筒径が小さくなる。以降、ＦＢに回し込まれた複数の編目は右側接合編目６と呼ぶ。Ｓ４でも、身頃２のほぼ真横の位置に袖４を取り付けるために、回し込みの繰り返し数を、右前立て部２４の編幅方向の編目数の半分としている。 In S4, the right front body 2FR (see FIG. 1) of the body 2 deposited in BB in S2 is moved to the FB, and the left front body 2FL (see FIG. 1) and the front part of the left sleeve 3 which are locked to the FB are moved. To BB. Furthermore, in S4, the stitches at the right end in the knitting width direction of the second knitted fabric portion 22 are repeatedly wound into the outer side in the knitting width direction of the first knitted fabric portion 21 (corresponding to the first half portion of step b2). At this time, since the left end portion of the body cylinder of the body 2 and the left sleeve 3 is not rotated, the left front upright portion 23 and the right front upright portion 24 are divided into FB and BB, and are overlapped. Becomes smaller. Hereinafter, the plurality of stitches fed into the FB will be referred to as the right joint stitch 6. Also in S4, in order to attach the sleeve 4 to a position almost right beside the body 2, the number of times of turning is set to be half the number of stitches in the knitting width direction of the right plier 24.

Ｓ５では、ＦＢ上で、編幅方向の最も外側にある右側接合編目６から順次、右袖４の編目と接合する（工程ｂ２の後半部分に相当）。本例では右袖４を回転させることなく、身頃２と右袖４との接合を行なっている。具体的には、両前立て部２３，２４の重複を解消するように身頃２のうちのＦＢに係止される部分を右袖４側に移動させ、ＦＢに回し込んだ複数の右側接合編目６のうち、右袖４に近接する右側接合編目６から順に右袖４の編目（図中のバツ印）に接続する。 In S5, on the FB, the right joint stitch 6 on the outermost side in the knitting width direction is sequentially joined to the stitch of the right sleeve 4 (corresponding to the latter half of the step b2). In this example, the body 2 and the right sleeve 4 are joined without rotating the right sleeve 4. Specifically, a plurality of right joint stitches 6 which are moved to the right sleeve 4 side of the body 2 to be locked to the FB so as to eliminate the duplication of both the placket parts 23 and 24 and are wound into the FB. Among them, the right joint stitch 6 adjacent to the right sleeve 4 is sequentially connected to the stitch of the right sleeve 4 (cross mark in the figure).

Ｓ６では、ＦＢにおける最も近接する身頃２と左袖３の編目同士を接合すると共に、ＢＢにおける最も近接する身頃２と左袖３の編目同士を接合する（工程ｂ３に相当）。また、Ｓ７では、ＦＢにおける最も近接する身頃２と右袖４の編目同士を接合すると共に、ＢＢにおける最も近接する身頃２と右袖４の編目同士を接合する（工程ｂ４に相当）。 In S6, the stitches of the closest body 2 and the left sleeve 3 in the FB are joined together, and the stitches of the closest body 2 and the left sleeve 3 in the BB are joined together (corresponding to step b3). Further, in S7, the stitches of the closest body 2 and the right sleeve 4 in the FB are joined together, and the stitches of the closest body 2 and the right sleeve 4 in the BB are joined together (corresponding to step b4).

Ｓ６，Ｓ７では、ＦＢに係止される編目数とＢＢに係止される編目数との間に大きな差が生じないように、ＦＢでの接合数とＢＢでの接合数とを同数としている。そのため、身頃２と袖３，４との接合時に袖３，４を回転させる必要がない。もちろん、編糸が切れない範囲で、ＦＢとＢＢとで接合数に差があってもかまわない。身頃２と袖３，４との接合数は、袖３，４の襠をどの程度とするかによって適宜選択できる。例えば、Ｌサイズのカーディガン１であれば、Ｍサイズのカーディガン１よりも上記接合数は多くなる。 In S6 and S7, the number of joints in FB is the same as the number of joints in BB so that a large difference does not occur between the number of stitches held in FB and the number of stitches held in BB. .. Therefore, it is not necessary to rotate the sleeves 3 and 4 when joining the body 2 and the sleeves 3 and 4. Of course, there may be a difference in the number of joints between FB and BB as long as the knitting yarn is not broken. The number of joints between the body 2 and the sleeves 3 and 4 can be appropriately selected depending on the extent to which the gussets of the sleeves 3 and 4 are made. For example, the L-sized cardigan 1 has a larger number of joints than the M-sized cardigan 1.

Ｓ８では、カーディガン１における脇１０よりも上の部分をＣ字状に編成する（工程Ｃに相当）。本例では、減らし編成により身頃２の編幅を徐々に減らし、開き部２０の間隔を徐々に広げている。そうすることで、図１に示すように、脇１０よりも上方の位置にネックホールの下端が位置するカーディガン１を編成できる。図１のカーディガン１よりも前下りの小さいラウンドネックやスクエアネックのカーディガンを編成することもできる。 In S8, the portion of the cardigan 1 above the side 10 is knitted in a C shape (corresponding to step C). In this example, the knitting width of the body 2 is gradually reduced by the reduction knitting, and the interval between the opening portions 20 is gradually widened. By doing so, as shown in FIG. 1, it is possible to knit the cardigan 1 in which the lower end of the neck hole is located above the side 10. It is also possible to knit a round neck or square neck cardigan with a smaller front descent than the cardigan 1 in FIG.

以上説明した実施形態のニットウェアの編成方法では、左前立て部２３と右前立て部２４との重なり幅を大きくしても、身頃２と袖３、４とを接合する際に糸切れが生じ難い。それは、工程ｂ１（Ｓ２，Ｓ３）と工程ｂ２（Ｓ４，Ｓ５）のそれぞれにおいて、左前立て部２３と右前立て部２４とが編幅方向に重なることを許容し、一方の袖３（４）と身頃２とを接合する操作が、他方の袖４（３）と身頃２とを接合する操作に影響を及ぼさなくなるからである。例えば、Ｓ２，Ｓ３で身頃２と左袖３とを接合する際、身頃２の右袖４側の部分では全く編目の移動や編成は行なわれていない。また、Ｓ４，Ｓ５で身頃２と右袖４とを接合する際も、身頃２と左袖３との接合箇所は編幅方向に全く動いていない。そのため、身頃２と左袖３との接合部が編幅方向に強く引っ張られることがなく、編成時の糸切れが生じ難い。また、身頃２と左袖３（右袖４）との接合を、工程ｂ１（ｂ２）と工程ｂ３（ｂ４）の二段階に分割して、各工程における編糸の負担を減らすことで、両前立て部２３，２４の重なり幅を大きくしても、糸切れを生じ難くできる。 In the knitwear knitting method of the above-described embodiment, even if the overlapping width of the left front stand portion 23 and the right front stand portion 24 is increased, thread breakage is unlikely to occur when the body 2 and the sleeves 3 and 4 are joined. .. That is, in each of the steps b1 (S2, S3) and the steps b2 (S4, S5), the left front stand portion 23 and the right front stand portion 24 are allowed to overlap each other in the knitting width direction, and one sleeve 3 (4) This is because the operation of joining the body 2 does not affect the operation of joining the other sleeve 4 (3) and the body 2. For example, when joining the body 2 and the left sleeve 3 in S2 and S3, no stitches are moved or knitted in the portion of the body 2 on the right sleeve 4 side. Also, when the body 2 and the right sleeve 4 are joined in S4 and S5, the joint between the body 2 and the left sleeve 3 does not move at all in the knitting width direction. Therefore, the joint portion between the body 2 and the left sleeve 3 is not strongly pulled in the knitting width direction, and thread breakage during knitting is unlikely to occur. In addition, the joining of the body 2 and the left sleeve 3 (right sleeve 4) is divided into two stages of the process b1 (b2) and the process b3 (b4) to reduce the load of the knitting yarn in each process. Even if the overlapping width of the placket portions 23 and 24 is increased, it is possible to prevent the yarn breakage from occurring.

また、本実施形態のニットウェアの編成方法では、カーディガン１の編成開始から編成終了までの間、袖３，４を回転させることなくカーディガン１を編成している。そのため、袖３，４を回転させるためのラッキングや目移しを行なう必要がないため、カーディガン１を生産性良く編成できる。また、カーディガン１の編成にあたり袖３，４を回転させる必要がないため、袖３，４に組織柄を編成し易い。 In the knitwear knitting method of the present embodiment, the cardigan 1 is knitted without rotating the sleeves 3 and 4 from the start of knitting the cardigan 1 to the end of knitting. Therefore, it is not necessary to perform racking or transfer for rotating the sleeves 3 and 4, so that the cardigan 1 can be knitted with high productivity. Further, since it is not necessary to rotate the sleeves 3 and 4 when knitting the cardigan 1, it is easy to knit a texture pattern on the sleeves 3 and 4.

≪その他≫
工程ｂ１に相当するＳ２，Ｓ３と、工程ｂ２に相当するＳ４，Ｓ５とはどちらを先に行なってもかまわない。また、Ｓ６とＳ７とはどちらを先に行なってもかまわない。Ｓ６はＳ２，Ｓ３の直後、Ｓ７はＳ４，Ｓ５の直後に行なってもかまわない。例えば、Ｓ２→Ｓ３→Ｓ６→Ｓ４→Ｓ５→Ｓ７の順に行なうことが挙げられる。 ≪Other≫
Either S2 or S3 corresponding to step b1 or S4 and S5 corresponding to step b2 may be performed first. Further, either S6 or S7 may be performed first. S6 may be performed immediately after S2 and S3, and S7 may be performed immediately after S4 and S5. For example, it may be performed in the order of S2→S3→S6→S4→S5→S7.

本発明のニットウェアの編成方法で得られるニットウェアは、図１に示すカーディガン１に限定されるわけではない。例えばニットウェアは、ニットジャケットやワンピースなどであっても良い。また、着用者の背中側に前立てを備えるニットドレスなどの編成にも、本発明のニットウェアの編成方法を適用できる。また、実施形態では袖３，４を全く回し込まずに編成を行なっているが、袖３，４の回し込みを行なってもかまわない。袖３，４を回し込んだ分だけ、身頃２の回し込みを減らすことができる。 The knitwear obtained by the knitwear knitting method of the present invention is not limited to the cardigan 1 shown in FIG. For example, the knitwear may be a knit jacket or a dress. The knitwear knitting method of the present invention can also be applied to knitting such as a knit dress having a placket on the back side of the wearer. Further, in the embodiment, the knitting is performed without turning the sleeves 3 and 4 at all, but the turning of the sleeves 3 and 4 may be performed. By turning the sleeves 3 and 4, the turning of the body 2 can be reduced.

ＦＢ 前針床（第一針床） ＢＢ 後針床（第二針床）
１ カーディガン（ニットウェア） １０ 脇
２ 身頃 ２Ｂ 後身頃 ２ＦＬ 左前身頃 ２ＦＲ 右前身頃
２０ 開き部 ２１ 第一編地部 ２２ 第二編地部
２３ 左前立て部 ２４ 右前立て部
３ 左袖
４ 右袖
５ 左側接合編目
６ 右側接合編目 FB front needle bed (first needle bed) BB rear needle bed (second needle bed)
1 Cardigan (Knitwear) 10 Side 2 Body 2B Rear Body 2FL Left Front Body 2FR Right Front Body 20 Opening Part 21 1st Knitting Part 22 2nd Knitting Part 23 Left Placing Part 24 Right Placing Part 3 Left Sleeve 4 Right Sleeve 5 Left Side Joining stitch 6 Right joining stitch

Claims (3)

対向する第一針床と第二針床とを備える横編機を用いて、
開き部を有する身頃に接続された左袖及び右袖を備え、前記身頃は、前記開き部を閉じたときに重ねられる左前立て部と右前立て部とを有するニットウェアを編成するにあたり、
前記ニットウェアの脇の位置まで、前記第一針床上で前記左前立て部と前記右前立て部の端部同士が突き合わされた状態で、前記第一針床と前記第二針床を用いて前記身頃をＣ字状に編成すると共に、前記第一針床と前記第二針床を用いて前記身頃と独立して前記左袖及び前記右袖を筒状に編成する工程Ａと、
前記脇の位置で前記身頃と前記左袖及び前記右袖とを接合する工程Ｂと、
前記ニットウェアにおける前記脇よりも上の部分をＣ字状に編成する工程Ｃと、を行なうニットウェアの編成方法において、
前記身頃のうち、前記工程Ｂの開始前に前記第一針床に係止される部分を第一編地部、前記第二針床に係止される部分を第二編地部としたとき、
前記工程Ｂは、
前記第二編地部の編幅方向の左端の編目を前記第一編地部の編幅方向の外側に回し込むことを複数回繰り返した後、前記第一針床で、前記回し込まれた複数の編目のうち、編幅方向の最も外側にある編目から順次、前記左袖の編目と接合する工程ｂ１と、
前記第二編地部の編幅方向の右端の編目を前記第一編地部の編幅方向の外側に回し込むことを複数回繰り返した後、前記第一針床で、前記回し込まれた複数の編目のうち、編幅方向の最も外側にある編目から順次、前記右袖の編目と接合する工程ｂ２と、
前記第一針床と前記第二針床のそれぞれで、前記身頃と前記左袖の近接する編目同士を接合する工程ｂ３と、
前記第一針床と前記第二針床のそれぞれで、前記身頃と前記右袖の近接する編目同士を接合する工程ｂ４と、を備えるニットウェアの編成方法。 Using a flat knitting machine having a first needle bed and a second needle bed facing each other,
Including a left sleeve and a right sleeve connected to the body having an opening, the body, in knitting knitwear having a left placket and a right placket that are overlapped when the opening is closed,
Up to the side of the knitwear, in a state in which the end portions of the left fly stand and the right fly stand are abutted on the first needle bed, the first needle bed and the second needle bed are used to Step A of knitting the body in a C shape, and knitting the left sleeve and the right sleeve in a tubular shape independently of the body using the first needle bed and the second needle bed,
Step B of joining the body and the left sleeve and the right sleeve at the side position,
In the knitwear knitting method, the step C of knitting a portion of the knitwear above the side in a C shape is performed.
When the portion of the body that is locked to the first needle bed before the start of the step B is the first knitted fabric portion and the portion that is locked to the second needle bed is the second knitted fabric portion ,
The step B is
After repeating the winding of the stitch at the left end in the knitting width direction of the second knitted fabric portion to the outer side in the knitting width direction of the first knitted fabric portion a plurality of times, at the first needle bed, it was rolled in Of the plurality of stitches, a step b1 of sequentially joining the stitches on the left sleeve in order from the outermost stitch in the knitting width direction,
After repeating the winding of the stitch at the right end in the knitting width direction of the second knitted fabric portion to the outer side in the knitting width direction of the first knitted fabric portion a plurality of times, in the first needle bed, it was wound in A step b2 of sequentially joining the stitches of the right sleeve from the outermost stitch in the knitting width direction among the plurality of stitches;
A step b3 of joining adjacent stitches of the body and the left sleeve with each of the first needle bed and the second needle bed,
A method knitting knitwear, comprising a step b4 of joining adjacent stitches of the body and the right sleeve on each of the first needle bed and the second needle bed. 前記左袖を回転させることなく、前記工程ｂ１及び前記工程ｂ３を行い、
前記右袖を回転させることなく、前記工程ｂ２及び前記工程ｂ４を行う請求項１に記載のニットウェアの編成方法。 The step b1 and the step b3 are performed without rotating the left sleeve,
The knitwear knitting method according to claim 1, wherein the step b2 and the step b4 are performed without rotating the right sleeve. 前記工程Ｃにおいて、前記身頃の編幅を徐々に減らし、前記開き部の間隔を広げる請求項１または請求項２に記載のニットウェアの編成方法。 The knitwear knitting method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein in the step C, the knitting width of the body is gradually reduced and the gap between the openings is widened.
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