JP3541177B2 - How to knit knitted clothing - Google Patents

How to knit knitted clothing Download PDF

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JP3541177B2
JP3541177B2 JP2000567777A JP2000567777A JP3541177B2 JP 3541177 B2 JP3541177 B2 JP 3541177B2 JP 2000567777 A JP2000567777 A JP 2000567777A JP 2000567777 A JP2000567777 A JP 2000567777A JP 3541177 B2 JP3541177 B2 JP 3541177B2
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sleeve
knitting
stitch
knitted
sleeves
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学 由井
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Shima Seiki Manufacturing Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B7/00Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B7/10Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles with provision for narrowing or widening to produce fully-fashioned goods
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Description

技術分野
本発明は横編機を用いたニット衣類の編成方法に関し、特に前身頃と後身頃を筒状に編成した後、筒状に編成した袖と前後両身頃を横編機上で接合する編成方法に関する。
背景技術
筒状に編成した前後両身頃と袖を横編機上で接合し、リンキング等の縫製工程を不要または軽減できるニット衣類の編成方法として本出願人は日本特開平9−273051号公報の編成方法を先に出願している。該公報では、第1図から第3図に示すように(第1図はニット衣類を横編機上で編成される状態に配した図である。第2図の2−Aはセーター1の右半分の正面図であり、2−Bは背面図である。第3図は第2図のセーター1を肩部を中心に展開した図である)、筒状に形成された袖4,14を前ベッドで編成される前身頃2aおよび後ベッドで編成される後身頃2bと接合した後、前身頃2aと後身頃2bの最終コースの編目を肩で接合して袖4,14と前後身頃2a,2bが接合されたニット衣類を編成する際に、肩部において前身頃2aを後身頃2bよりも長く編成することで、前身頃2aと後身頃2bの接合箇所19を通常の肩ライン15よりも後身頃側に移動した箇所に形成し、前身頃2aと後身頃2bの接合箇所19が肩ライン15に制限されない多様なシルエットのニット衣類を編成可能な編成方法が開示されている。
上記した特開平9−273051号公報の編成方法では、第3図において矢印Z方向に編成される袖4は身頃2a,2bとの接合開始後、身頃2a,2bおよび袖4のそれぞれに次コースの編目を形成しながら接合するが、袖4の最後となる領域Wにおいては身頃2aのみに次コースの編目の形成を行い、袖4には次コースの編目を形成することなく身頃2aと接合する。このため、領域Wの編目は前身頃2aとの接合を行う間、新たな編目が形成されることなく目移しが繰り返されるため、弱い編糸を編成に使用する場合や、目移し回数が多くなるゲージの細かい編機で編成を行う場合には糸切れが発生する虞がある。
本発明は上記した問題に鑑み、上記した特開平9−273051号公報に開示されるシルエットのニット衣類を編成する方法であって、特に弱い編糸を編成に使用する場合や、ゲージの細かな編機で編成を行う場合でも糸切れの発生することのない編成方法を開示しようとするものである。
発明の開示
上記した課題を解決するため、本発明のニット衣類の編成方法は、少なくとも前後一対のニードルベッドを対向配置した横編機を用いて第1の身頃と第2の身頃が前後に重ねられた状態で編成される筒状の身頃と、それぞれが前後に重ねられた状態で編成される左右筒状の両袖とを裾から脇下まで編成した後、袖と身頃を接合するニット衣類の編成であって、
1) 第1および第2の身頃、および左右両袖を1つの筒状体として編成する工程
2) 工程1の間に第1、第2の身頃の少なくとも一方の身頃に衿ぐりを形成する工程
3) 袖を身頃側に移動させ身頃と袖を袖ぐり部で接合する工程
4) 袖と第1の身頃のコース編成を完了し、残る第2の身頃のコース編成を続行する工程
5) 工程4においてコース編成が続行される第2の身頃を肩ラインまで編成するとともに、その間に第2の身頃を袖側に移動させながら、第2の身頃と、肩ラインを基準として同じ側に形成される袖とを接合部において第2の身頃の編目が袖の編目の表側に現れるように接合する工程
6) コース編成が続行される第2の身頃を肩ラインを越えて編成するとともに、その間に第2の身頃を衿ぐり側に移動させながら、第2の身頃と、工程5で接続された袖と肩ラインを基準として反対側に形成された袖とを接合する工程
7) 第1の身頃と第2の身頃を肩部で接合する工程
を含むことを特徴とする。
上記した発明の構成によれば、それぞれが筒状に形成される身頃と左右両袖を接合して一つの大きな筒状体として編成する過程において一方の身頃、例えば後身頃、または他方の身頃、例えば前身頃に衿ぐりを形成するとともに、袖を身頃側に移動させて身頃と袖を接合する。そして袖および後身頃のコース編成を完了した後、前身頃のコース編成を続行する。前身頃を肩ラインに向けて形成する間に衿ぐりと袖間に位置する前身頃を袖側に移動させ、肩ラインを基準として前身頃と同じ側に形成される前袖部分を前身頃の編目が前袖部分の編目の表側に現れるように重ねて接合し、続いて前身頃を肩ラインを越えて編成する間に前身頃を衿ぐり側に移動させ、肩ラインを基準として前身頃と反対側に形成される後袖部分を接合する。次ぎに後身頃と、袖との接合が完了した前身頃を肩部で接合する。上記の編成を行うことで、前身頃がニット衣類の着用時の肩ラインを越えて後身頃側に進入する。この結果、一方の身頃と他方の身頃の接合箇所を肩ラインから離れて配置でき、シルエットが向上し、かつ一方の身頃のデザインが肩ラインで途切れるのを防止できる。前身頃のみを編成しながら袖と接合する際に、次コースの編目の形成が引き続いて行われる前身頃を袖側に移動させて前身頃と袖を接合する編成を含めることで、次コースの編目が形成されない袖の編目の目移しを不要とするか又回数を少なくし袖の編目の糸切れ発生を防止する。また、袖を身頃側に移動させて接合する編成においても、身頃を袖側に移動させて接合する編成においても身頃の編目が袖の編目の表側に現れるように重ねて身頃と袖を接合することで、アームホールラインにおいて身頃の編目が袖の編目の表側に現れたきれいなアームホールラインが形成される。
また、身頃を袖側に移動させ身頃の編目が袖の編目の表側に現れるように身頃と袖を接合する工程が
1) 袖の身頃側側端の編目を身頃の袖側側端の編目側に目移しし、袖の編目を身頃の編目の裏側に重ねる工程
2) 身頃を袖側に移動させる工程
を含むことも特徴の一つである。
上記した発明の構成によれば、身頃を袖側に移動させて接合する際に、身頃を袖側に移動させる前に袖の身頃側側端の編目を身頃の編目を重ねた後、身頃の編目を袖側に移動させることで、袖を身頃側に移動させる編成と同様に身頃の編目が袖の編目の表側に現れたアームホールラインを形成する。
【図面の簡単な説明】
第1図はセーターの各パーツを横編機上で編成する状態に配列したもので、前身頃と両前袖のデザイン、並びに後身頃と両後袖のデザインを示し、第2図の2−Aはセーターの右半分の正面図、2−Bはセーターの右半分の背面図であり。第3図はセーターを肩ラインで展開した図であり、第4図は袖を編成しながら身頃と接合する部分の編成コース図であり、第5図は袖を編成しながら身頃と接合する部分の編成コース図であり、第6図は袖の編成完了後、身頃と接合する部分の編成コース図であり、第7図は袖の編成完了後、身頃と接合する部分の編成コース図であり、第8図は袖の編成完了後、身頃と接合する部分の編成コース図である。
発明を実施するために最良の形態
本発明の実施の形態を、第1図〜第8図を参照して説明する。実施例では、衣類として無地のセットインスリーブのセーター1を編成する場合を例に説明する。第1図はセーター1を構成する各パーツを横編機上で編成される状態に配したもので、図の上部にセーター着用時に前側に現れる前身頃2aと前袖4a,14aを示し、これらは横編機の前ニードルベッド上の針で編成される。図の下部に着用時に後側に現れる後身頃2bと後袖4b,14bを示し、これらは後ニードルベッド上の針で編成される。線X−Xはセーター1の中心線で、セーター1は左右対称である。符号9は衿ぐりを、符号6,7,17は裾ゴムを示す。
点A,H、点E,K、点a,h、点e,kは、脇下における身頃2と袖4,14との接合点である。袖ぐり8a,bでは、前身頃2aと前袖4a,14aの接合は線A−Bと線H−Iや、線a−bと線h−iで行われ、後身頃2bと後袖4b,14bとの接合は線E−Fと線K−Jや、線e−fと線k−jで行われる。注目すべきことは、前身頃2aと後身頃2bは点B,b,F,f以降の部分11,12で形状が異なることである。即ち、袖山頂部の線I−J、線i−jは、前身頃2aの部分11の線B−C、線b−cと接合される。また前身頃2aと後身頃2bの肩部での接合は、線C−Dと線F−Gや、線c−dと線f−gで行われる。
第1図のパーツに基づいて編成されたセーター1を、第2図に示す。2−Aはセーター1の右半分の正面図で、2−Bはセーターの右半分の背面図である。第3図にセーター1を肩ライン15を中心にして展開して示す。第3図から明らかなように、前身頃2aの編地が肩ライン15を越えて後身頃2bに侵入している。また前身頃2aと後身頃2bとの接合部19には、所定数のウェールからなるファッションライン20が形成されている。
上記のように、横編機を使用して袖4,14、身頃2を筒状に編成し、編成中に袖4,14と身頃2を接合して、編成完了時に略完成品に近いセーターを製造する方法は公知である。以下の説明においては前後一対のニードルベッドの上方にニードルベッドの編針との間で目移しが可能なトランスファージャック(以下、TRジャックと呼ぶ)がニードルベッドの針と同ピッチで装着されるトランスファージャックベッド(以下、TRジャックベッドと呼ぶ)を備えた横編機を使用する場合を説明する。しかしながら、本発明は以下の説明で使用するタイプと横編機に限らず、下部ニードルベッド上に上部ニードルベッドが装着される四枚ベッド横編機や、前後のいずれのニードルベッドとの間において目移し可能なTRジャックベッドが前後一対のニードルベッドの何れか一方のニードルベッドの上方にのみ設けられる三枚ベッド横編機や、前後一対のニードルベッドのみが設けられる二枚ベッド横編機においても実施可能である。また、二枚ベッド横編機を使用する場合には、ニードルベッドの奇数番目の針を例えば前側編地用とし、偶数番目の針を後側編地用として、前後ニードルベッドのそれぞれ1本置きの針を使用する。これにより各編地は、対向するニードルベッド上に目移し用の空針を常に確保でき、両袖を横方向に移動させて身頃に接合することができる。
セーター1は裾ゴム6a,b,7a,b,17a,bから編成を開始し、各裾ゴム部は編糸を周回編成する等により筒状に編まれる。本実施の形態では、周回編成することで筒状編地を編成しているが、例えば前身頃と後身頃を別々の給糸口を使用して編成するとともに、それぞれの編成に使用される編糸を編成領域の両端で交差させて編成することにより筒状編地を編成してもよい。また、ニット衣類としてセーター1を編成する場合を説明するが、カーディガンのようなニット衣類においても実施可能である。裾ゴム部の編成完了後、身頃2と袖4,14の編成に移り、所定コース編成する毎にウェール数を増加させながら、脇下まで編成する。脇下のところで身頃2と袖4,14の各筒状体を接合させ、脇下から袖ぐり形成部にかけて、身頃2と袖4,14を所定コース編成する毎に袖4,14を身頃側2に移動させて、袖ぐり8a,bのところで編目を重ねる。このようにして、前身頃2aの線A−Bと前袖4aの線H−I、後身頃2bの線E−Fと後袖4bの線K−J、および前身頃2aの線a−bと前袖14aの線h−i、後身頃2bの線e−fと後袖14bの線k−jを接合する。このため筒体中の袖4,14の編み幅は減少してゆき、同時に衿ぐり9aが形成される。
以下、第4図から第8図を使用して編成について説明するが、右袖14と身頃2a,2bを接合する編成と、左袖4と身頃2a,2bを接合する編成は左右対称となる以外は共通であるため、第1図のX−X線の右側に形成される左袖4と身頃部2a,2bを接合する編成に限って説明する。また、身頃2a,2bと袖4の接合開始前の編成、および身頃2a,2bと袖4の接合完了後の編成については特開平9−273051号公報等により明らかであるため、身頃2a,2bと袖4を接合する編成開始から身頃2a,2bと袖4の接合が完了するまでの編成について説明する。なお、第4図〜第8図において、左側の数字はコース番号を、FBは前ベッド、BBは後ベッドを、FTは前TRジャックベッド、BTは後TRジャックベッドを示し、左右方向の矢印は給糸口21の進行方向を、上下方向の矢印は目移し方向を示す。
まず、第4図および第5図を使用し身頃および袖のそれぞれに次コースの編目を形成しながら接合を行う前身頃A−Bと袖H−I、および後身頃E−Fと袖K−Jの接合編成について説明する。第4図のコース1は接合を行うための編成の開始直前の状態を示している。前ベッドの針A〜Jに係止されているのが前身頃2aの編目であり、後ベッドの針A〜Jに係止されているのが後身頃2bの編目である。前ベッドの針K〜Rに係止されているのが前ベッド上で編成される前袖部4aであり、後ベッドの針K〜Rに係止されているのが後ベッド上で編成される後袖部4bである。コース1では身頃2a,2bと袖4の両方の編成に使用する給糸口21により前ベッドの針A〜Rに給糸し、前身頃および前袖4aに次コースの編目を形成する。コース2では後ベッドの針R〜Aに給糸して後身頃2bおよび後袖4bに次コースの編目を形成する。身頃2a,2bと袖4の接合開始後、衿ぐり9の形成開始前は前後身頃2a,2bおよび左右両袖4,14に環状に給糸して一つの筒状体として編成し、衿ぐり9の形成開始後は衿ぐり9で給糸口21を反転走行させて編成を行う。コース3では袖を身頃側に移動させるため、前袖の編目を後TRジャックベッドのTRジャックk〜rに目移し、コース4では後TRジャックベッドを左に1ピッチラッキングした後、前袖4aの編目を前ベッドに移すことで前袖4aの身頃側側端の編目が前ベッドの針Jに係止されている前身頃2aの編目の裏側(筒状に編成される編地の外に現れる側を表側とし、内に隠れる側を裏側とする)に重ねられた状態とする。コース5では後袖4bの編目を前TRジャックベッドのTRジャックj〜qに目移し、コース6では後TRジャックベッドを右に1ピッチラッキングした後、後袖4bを後ベッドに移すことで後袖4bの身頃側側端の編目が後ベッドの針Jに係止されている後身頃2bの編目の裏側に重ねられた状態とし身頃2a,2bと袖4を接合する。次ぎに第5図のコース7では後ベッドの針A〜Qに給糸し、コース8では前ベッドの針Q〜Aに給糸して身頃2a,2Bに次コースの編目を形成する。上記したようにコース3からコース6に示される接合編成と、身頃2a,2bおよび袖4に次コースの編目を形成する編成を、身頃2a,2bと袖4の接合が開始される脇部分では12コース編成する毎に1度接合編成を行い、肩部分に近づくにつれて8コースに1度、4コースに1度というように接合編成の頻度を変えながら身頃と袖を接合することで袖を任意の角度で身頃に接合できる。
次ぎに第6図から第8図を使用し袖のコース編成が完了した後の前身頃B−Cと袖I−Jを接合する領域Wでの編成について説明する。第6図のコース1は第4図から第5図の編成を繰り返し行うことで袖4の編目が減らされ、前ベッドの針I〜Lに前袖4aの編目が、後ベッドの針I〜Lに後袖4bの編目が係止された状態を示している。前ベッドの針Cより左側では衿ぐり9が形成されている。衿ぐり9が形成されている箇所では、衿ぐりに相当する部分の編目が針から外された状態となっているため、衿ぐりの両側に形成される身頃を反対側、つまり衿ぐりの右側に形成される前身頃を右袖14側に、衿ぐりの左側に形成される前身頃を左袖4側に移動させることが可能となる。これにより前身頃2aを袖4側に移動させて接合することが可能で、次コースの編目の形成を行わない袖4の編目の目移しが不要となる。なお、本実施の形態では衿ぐりを前身頃2aにのみ設けているが、前身頃2aと同様に後身頃2bにも衿ぐりを形成してもよい。第6図のコース2では前袖4aの身頃側側端の編目を後TRジャックベッドのTRジャックiに目移しし、コース3では後TRジャックベッドを左に1ピッチラッキングした後、前ベッドの針Hに目移しし、針Hに係止されている前身頃2aの袖側側端の編目の裏側に重ねて前身頃2aと前袖4aを接合し、次ぎにコース4では前ベッドの針C〜Hに給糸し、前身頃2aに次コースの編目を形成する。コース5では給糸口21を反転した後、前ベッドの針H〜Cに給糸して前身頃2aを編成する。コース6では新たに形成した前身頃2aの編目を後TRジャックベッドのTRジャックd〜iに目移しし、第7図のコース7では後TRジャックベッドを右に1ピッチラッキングした後、前ベッドの針D〜Iに目移しし、前身頃2aと前袖4aが隣接する状態とする。上記第6図のコース2〜第7図のコース7に示されるように、前身頃2aを肩ライン15を基準に同じ側に形成される前袖4aを接合する編成を、前身頃2aを袖4側に移動させながら繰り返し行うことにより、第7図のコース8に示すように前袖4aの全ての編目が前身頃2aと接合され、前身頃2aと前袖4aの接合が肩ラインまで完成した状態となる。
次ぎに前身頃2aと前袖4aの接合が完成し、肩ライン15を越えて後身頃側に進入して形成される部分の前身頃2aと後袖4bの接合方法について説明する。肩ライン15を越えた後においても前身頃2aを袖4側に移動させて接合を行うが、袖4は肩ラインを中心に前袖4aと後袖4bが折り返した状態で編成されるため、後袖4bとの接合においては前身頃2aを衿ぐり側となる左側に移動させながら接合を行う。コース9では後袖4bの身頃側端の編目を前ベッドの針Lに目移しして前身頃2aの袖側側端の編目の裏側に重ねる。そしてコース10およびコース11では前ベッドの針G〜Lに給糸して前身頃2aに続くコースの編目を形成する。次ぎにコース12では前身頃2aの編目を後TRジャックベッドのTRジャックg〜lに目移しし、第8図のコース13では後TRジャックベッドを右に1ピッチラッキングした後、前身頃2aを前ベッドの針F〜Kに目移しする。コース14では後ベッドを左に針1ピッチラッキングした後、後ベッドの針Kに係止されている後袖4bの編目を前ベッドに目移しして前身頃2aの編目の裏側に重ね、第8図のコース15およびコース16では前ベッドの針F〜Kに給糸して前身頃2aを編成する。以降第7図のコース12〜第8図のコース16に示される編成を繰り返し行うことで前身頃2aと肩ライン15を基準として反対側に形成される後袖4bと接合され、コース17に示すように前身頃2aと後身頃2bの編目のみが形成された状態となる。以後特開平9−273051号公報に開示される方法により前身頃2aと後身頃2bが接合されてセーター1の編成が完成する。
上記したように本実施の形態の編成方法では前身頃2aと袖4を接合する際に、編成が完了し新たな編目の形成を行わない袖4の編目を前身頃2a側に目移しする必要がないので、弱い糸を編成に使用する場合や、細かなゲージの横編機で編成を行う場合でも糸切れ等の問題の発生を回避できる。また、前身頃2aを袖4側に移動させて接合する際に、移動させる前身頃2aの編目を袖4の編目の裏側に重ねるのではなく、前身頃2aの編目が袖4の編目の表側に重ねるようにして接合しているため、移動される側の前身頃2aの編目が編地表面に現れるきれいなアームホールラインを形成できる。上記した実施の形態においては、前身頃2aを袖4側に移動させて接合する際に、袖4の身頃側側端の編目を前身頃2aの編目に重ねた後、前身頃2aの編目を袖4側に移動させることで身頃の編目を袖の編目の表側に重ねているが、前身頃2aを袖4側に移動させる際に前身頃2aの編目と重ねられる袖4の編目を予めTRジャックに移動させてから身頃を袖側に移動させ、その後、袖4の編目を移し戻すことで身頃2aの編目を袖4の編目の表側に重ねるようにしてもよい。
なお、上記した実施の形態においては、袖4の編成完了後、前身頃2aを移動させて接合するようにしているが、袖の編目に負担がかからない程度まで編成完了後の袖4を前身頃2a側に移動させて接合してもよい。また、身頃2a,2bおよび袖4を平編組織で編成する場合を説明したが、トランスファージャックベッドの代わりに上部ベッドが設けられる四枚ベッド横編機や編目の形成に使用する針間に目移し用の空針を配置して編成を行う場合にはリンクス、ガーター、リブ等のような表目と裏目が混在する編組織により編成することも可能である。
産業上の利用可能性
上記したように本発明のニット衣類の編成方法では、筒状の身頃と筒状の袖を接合して1つの筒状体として編成するとともに、他方の身頃よりも長く編成される一方の身頃を編成の完了した袖と接合し、一方の身頃が肩ラインを越えて他方の身頃側に進入したシルエットの編地を編成する際に、引き続き次コースの編目の形成が行われる身頃を袖側および衿ぐり側に移動させて接合するとともに、身頃と袖の編目を重ねる際に、身頃の編目を袖の編目の表側に現れるように重ねて接合するため、弱い編糸を編成に使用する場合や、ゲージの細かな横編機で編成を行う場合でも、糸切れの発生を心配することなく編成できるとともに、身頃の編目が袖の編目の表側に現れるきれいなアームホールラインが形成された商品価値の高いニット衣類を編成できる。
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a method of knitting knitted garments using a flat knitting machine, and in particular, after knitting a front body and a back body into a tubular shape, joining a sleeve knitted into a tubular shape and both front and rear bodies on a flat knitting machine. Related to the knitting method.
BACKGROUND ART The present applicant discloses a method of knitting knitted garments in which front and rear body bodies and sleeves knitted in a tubular shape are joined on a flat knitting machine and a sewing process such as linking is unnecessary or can be reduced. We have applied for the knitting method first. In this publication, as shown in FIG. 1 to FIG. 3 (FIG. 1 is a diagram in which knitted clothes are arranged on a flat knitting machine. 2-A in FIG. Fig. 3 is a front view of the right half, 2-B is a rear view, and Fig. 3 is a view in which the sweater 1 of Fig. 2 is developed around a shoulder), and sleeves 4 and 14 formed in a tubular shape. Is joined to the front body 2a knitted by the front bed and the back body 2b knitted by the back bed, and then the stitches of the last course of the front body 2a and the back body 2b are joined by the shoulder to form the sleeves 4, 14 and the front and rear bodies. By knitting the front body 2a longer than the back body 2b at the shoulder portion when knitting the knitted garment to which the 2a and 2b are joined, the joint 19 between the front body 2a and the back body 2b can be formed with the normal shoulder line 15. Is formed at a position shifted to the rear body side, and the joint 19 between the front body 2a and the back body 2b is a shoulder line Possible knitting method organize knitted garments of various silhouettes not limited discloses 5.
According to the knitting method disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-273051, the sleeve 4 knitted in the direction of the arrow Z in FIG. 3 is joined to the body 2a, 2b and the next course after the start of joining with the body 2a, 2b. The stitches of the next course are formed only in the body 2a in the last region W of the sleeve 4, and the sleeve 4 is joined to the body 2a without forming the stitches of the next course. I do. For this reason, while the stitches in the region W are repeatedly transferred without forming a new stitch while joining the stitches with the front body 2a, a case where a weak knitting yarn is used for knitting or the number of times of transfer is large. When knitting is performed with a knitting machine having a small gauge, yarn breakage may occur.
In view of the above-mentioned problems, the present invention is a method for knitting a knitted garment having a silhouette disclosed in the above-mentioned Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-273051, particularly when a weak knitting yarn is used for knitting or when a fine gauge is used. An object of the present invention is to disclose a knitting method that does not cause thread breakage even when knitting is performed by a knitting machine.
DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION In order to solve the above-mentioned problem, a knitting method of a knitted garment of the present invention uses a flat knitting machine in which at least a pair of front and rear needle beds are arranged to face each other so that a first body and a second body are stacked back and forth. Knitted garment that knits the sleeve and the body after knitting the tubular body knitted in a state where it is placed and the left and right cylindrical sleeves knitted in a state where they are stacked back and forth from the hem to the armpits The organization of
1) a step of knitting the first and second bodies and both left and right sleeves as one cylindrical body 2) a step of forming a neckline on at least one of the first and second bodies during step 1 3) Step of moving the sleeve to the body side and joining the body and the sleeve at the armhole portion 4) Step of completing the course formation of the sleeve and the first body and continuing the course formation of the remaining second body 5) Step In step 4, while knitting the second body to continue the course formation up to the shoulder line, while moving the second body to the sleeve side, the second body and the second body are formed on the same side based on the shoulder line. Step 6) joining the stitches of the second body at the joint portion so that the stitches of the second body appear on the front side of the stitches of the sleeves 6) Knitting the second body over which the course knitting is continued beyond the shoulder line, and While moving the second body to the side of the neck, And joining the sleeve connected in step 5 and the sleeve formed on the opposite side with respect to the shoulder line 7) joining the first body and the second body at the shoulder. Features.
According to the configuration of the invention described above, in the process of knitting the body and the left and right sleeves each formed into a cylindrical shape to form one large cylindrical body, one body, for example, the back body, or the other body, For example, a neckline is formed on the front body, and the sleeve is moved to the body side to join the body and the sleeve. After completion of the course formation of the sleeve and the back body, the course formation of the front body is continued. While forming the front body toward the shoulder line, move the front body located between the neckline and the sleeve to the sleeve side, and the front sleeve part formed on the same side as the front body based on the shoulder line is the stitch of the front body Is overlapped so that it appears on the front side of the stitch of the front sleeve part, and then, while knitting the front body over the shoulder line, move the front body to the neckline side, opposite to the front body based on the shoulder line Join the rear sleeve portion formed on the side. Next, the back body and the front body where the joining with the sleeve is completed are joined with the shoulder. By performing the above knitting, the front body crosses the shoulder line when the knitted garment is worn and enters the rear body. As a result, the joint between one body and the other body can be arranged away from the shoulder line, the silhouette can be improved, and the design of one body can be prevented from being cut off at the shoulder line. When knitting with the sleeves while knitting only the front body, the knitting that moves the front body to the sleeve side where the formation of stitches of the next course is continued and includes the knitting that joins the front body and sleeves, The transfer of the stitch of the sleeve where the stitch is not formed is not required or the number of times is reduced to prevent the occurrence of thread breakage of the stitch of the sleeve. Also, in knitting in which the sleeve is moved to the body side and joined, in knitting in which the body is moved to the sleeve side and joined, the body and the sleeve are joined so that the stitches of the body appear on the front side of the stitches of the sleeve. As a result, a beautiful armhole line is formed in which the stitches of the body appear on the front side of the stitches of the sleeve in the armhole line.
In addition, the step of moving the body to the sleeve side and joining the body and the sleeve so that the stitch of the body appears on the front side of the stitch of the sleeve is as follows: 1) The stitch on the body side end of the sleeve is stitched on the sleeve side end of the body. 2) A step of transferring the body to the sleeve side, which is one of the features.
According to the configuration of the invention described above, when the body is moved to the sleeve side and joined, before the body is moved to the sleeve side, the stitch of the body side end of the sleeve is overlapped with the body stitch, and By moving the stitch to the sleeve side, an armhole line in which the stitch of the body appears on the front side of the stitch of the sleeve is formed similarly to the knitting for moving the sleeve to the body side.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 shows the arrangement of each part of the sweater in a state of knitting on a flat knitting machine, showing the design of the front body and both front sleeves, and the design of the back body and both back sleeves. A is a front view of the right half of the sweater, and 2-B is a rear view of the right half of the sweater. FIG. 3 is a view in which the sweater is developed along a shoulder line, FIG. 4 is a knitting course diagram of a portion where the sleeve is knitted and joined to the body, and FIG. 5 is a portion where the sleeve is knitted and joined to the body. FIG. 6 is a knitting course diagram of a portion that joins with the body after the knitting of the sleeve is completed, and FIG. 7 is a knitting course diagram of a portion that joins with the body after the knitting of the sleeve is completed. FIG. 8 is a knitting course diagram of a portion to be joined to the body after knitting of the sleeve is completed.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION An embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG. 1 to FIG. In the embodiment, a case of knitting a plain set-in sleeve sweater 1 as clothing will be described as an example. FIG. 1 shows the parts constituting the sweater 1 arranged in a state of being knitted on a flat knitting machine. The upper part of the figure shows the front body 2a and the front sleeves 4a and 14a which appear on the front side when the sweater is worn. Are knitted with needles on the front needle bed of the flat knitting machine. The lower part of the figure shows the back body 2b and the back sleeves 4b and 14b which appear on the back side when worn, and these are knitted with needles on the back needle bed. The line XX is the center line of the sweater 1, and the sweater 1 is symmetrical. Reference numeral 9 indicates a neckline, and reference numerals 6, 7, and 17 indicate hem rubber.
Points A and H, points E and K, points a and h, and points e and k are junctions between the body 2 and the sleeves 4 and 14 under the armpits. In the armholes 8a and 8b, the front body 2a and the front sleeves 4a and 14a are joined along the line AB and the line HI or the line ab and the line hi and the back body 2b and the rear sleeve 4b are joined. , 14b is made at line EF and line KJ, and at line ef and line kj. It should be noted that the front body 2a and the back body 2b have different shapes in the portions 11 and 12 after the points B, b, F and f. That is, the lines IJ and ij at the top of the sleeve are joined to the lines BC and bc of the portion 11 of the front body 2a. In addition, the joining of the front body 2a and the back body 2b at the shoulder is performed by the lines CD and FG, and the lines cd and fg.
FIG. 2 shows a sweater 1 knitted based on the parts shown in FIG. 2-A is a front view of the right half of the sweater 1, and 2-B is a rear view of the right half of the sweater. FIG. 3 shows the sweater 1 expanded around the shoulder line 15. As is clear from FIG. 3, the knitted fabric of the front body 2a has invaded the back body 2b beyond the shoulder line 15. At a joint 19 between the front body 2a and the back body 2b, a fashion line 20 composed of a predetermined number of wales is formed.
As described above, the sleeves 4, 14 and the body 2 are knitted into a tubular shape using a flat knitting machine, and the sleeves 4, 14 and the body 2 are joined during knitting. The method for producing is known. In the following description, a transfer jack (hereinafter, referred to as a TR jack) capable of transferring between a needle bed of a needle bed and a needle above the pair of front and rear needle beds is mounted at the same pitch as the needles of the needle bed. A case where a flat knitting machine having a bed (hereinafter, referred to as a TR jack bed) is used will be described. However, the present invention is not limited to the type and flat knitting machine used in the following description, and a four-bed flat knitting machine in which an upper needle bed is mounted on a lower needle bed, and between any of the front and rear needle beds. In a three-bed flat knitting machine in which a transferable TR jack bed is provided only above one of the front and rear needle beds or in a two-bed flat knitting machine in which only the front and rear pair of needle beds are provided. Is also feasible. When a two-bed flat knitting machine is used, the odd-numbered needles of the needle bed are used, for example, for the front knitted fabric, and the even-numbered needles are used for the rear knitted fabric, and one for each of the front and rear needle beds. Use a needle. Thus, each knitted fabric can always secure empty needles for transfer on the opposing needle beds, and can be joined to the body by moving both sleeves in the lateral direction.
The sweater 1 starts knitting from the hem rubbers 6a, b, 7a, b, 17a, and b, and each hem rubber portion is knitted into a tubular shape by knitting a knitting yarn around or the like. In this embodiment, the tubular knitted fabric is knitted by orbital knitting.For example, the front body and the back body are knitted using different yarn feeders, and the knitting yarn used for each knitting is used. May be crossed at both ends of the knitting area to knit a tubular knitted fabric. Further, the case where the sweater 1 is knitted as a knitted garment will be described, but the present invention can be applied to a knitted garment such as a cardigan. After the knitting of the hem rubber portion is completed, the procedure shifts to knitting of the body 2 and the sleeves 4 and 14, and knitting is performed to the armpits while increasing the number of wales every time a predetermined course is knitted. The body 2 and the sleeves 4 and 14 are joined together at the armpits, and the sleeves 4 and 14 are attached to the body side every time the body 2 and the sleeves 4 and 14 are knitted in a predetermined course from the armpit to the armhole forming portion. 2 and the stitch is overlapped at the armholes 8a and 8b. Thus, the line AB of the front body 2a and the line HI of the front sleeve 4a, the line EF of the back body 2b and the line KJ of the rear sleeve 4b, and the line ab of the front body 2a And the line hi of the front sleeve 14a, the line ef of the rear body 2b, and the line kj of the rear sleeve 14b. Therefore, the knitting width of the sleeves 4 and 14 in the cylindrical body is reduced, and at the same time, the neckline 9a is formed.
Hereinafter, the knitting will be described with reference to FIGS. 4 to 8. The knitting that joins the right sleeve 14 and the bodies 2a and 2b and the knitting that joins the left sleeve 4 and the bodies 2a and 2b are symmetrical. Since the other parts are common, only the knitting in which the left sleeve 4 formed on the right side of the line XX in FIG. 1 and the body parts 2a and 2b are joined will be described. The knitting of the body 2a, 2b and the sleeve 4 before the joining is started, and the knitting after the joining of the body 2a, 2b and the sleeve 4 are completed are evident from Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-273051 or the like. The knitting from the start of knitting to join the sleeve 4 to the completion of joining of the bodies 2a, 2b and the sleeve 4 will be described. 4 to 8, the numbers on the left side indicate the course number, FB indicates the front bed, BB indicates the rear bed, FT indicates the front TR jack bed, and BT indicates the rear TR jack bed. Indicates the traveling direction of the yarn feeder 21, and the up and down arrows indicate the transfer direction.
First, using FIGS. 4 and 5, the front body AB and the sleeve HI, and the rear body EF and the sleeve K-, which are joined while forming the next course of stitches on the body and the sleeve, respectively. The joint knitting of J will be described. Course 1 in FIG. 4 shows a state immediately before the start of knitting for joining. The stitches of the front body 2a are locked to the needles A to J of the front bed, and the stitches of the back body 2b are locked to the needles A to J of the rear bed. The front sleeve portion 4a knitted on the front bed is locked to the needles K to R of the front bed, and the front sleeve portion 4a knitted on the rear bed is locked to the needles K to R of the rear bed. Rear sleeve 4b. In the course 1, yarn is fed to the needles A to R of the front bed by the yarn feeder 21 used for knitting both the body 2a, 2b and the sleeve 4, and the next course is formed on the front body and the front sleeve 4a. In the course 2, the yarns are supplied to the needles R to A of the rear bed, and the stitches of the next course are formed on the rear body 2b and the rear sleeve 4b. After the joining of the bodies 2a, 2b and the sleeves 4 and before the start of the formation of the neckline 9, the front and rear bodies 2a, 2b and the left and right sleeves 4, 14 are fed in a ring form and knitted as one cylindrical body, and the neckline is formed. After the start of the formation of 9, knitting is performed by reversing the yarn feeder 21 with the neckline 9. In course 3, in order to move the sleeves to the body side, the stitches of the front sleeve are transferred to the TR jacks k to r of the rear TR jack bed, and in course 4, the rear TR jack bed is racked one pitch to the left and then the front sleeve 4a. The stitch at the body side end of the front sleeve 4a is locked to the needle J of the front bed by moving the stitch to the front bed (the back side of the stitch of the front body 2a (outside the knitted fabric knitted in a tubular shape). The side that appears is the front side, and the side that is hidden inside is the back side). In course 5, the stitches of the rear sleeve 4b are transferred to the TR jacks j to q of the front TR jack bed. In course 6, the rear TR jack bed is racked to the right by one pitch, and then the rear sleeve 4b is transferred to the rear bed. The stitches at the body side end of the sleeve 4b are overlapped on the back side of the stitches of the back body 2b locked to the needle J of the rear bed, and the bodies 2a, 2b and the sleeve 4 are joined. Next, in course 7 of FIG. 5, yarn is supplied to the needles A to Q of the rear bed, and in course 8, yarn is supplied to the needles Q to A of the front bed to form stitches of the next course on the bodies 2a and 2B. As described above, the joint knitting shown in the courses 3 to 6 and the knitting forming the stitches of the next course on the bodies 2a, 2b and the sleeves 4 are performed in the side portions where the joining of the bodies 2a, 2b and the sleeves 4 is started. Perform joint knitting once every 12 courses, and change the frequency of joint knitting, such as once every 8 courses and once every 4 courses as you approach the shoulders, and join the body and sleeves to make the sleeves optional Can be joined to the body at an angle of
Next, the knitting in the region W where the front body BC and the sleeve IJ are joined after the course knitting of the sleeve is completed will be described with reference to FIGS. In course 1 of FIG. 6, the stitches of the sleeves 4 are reduced by repeating the knitting of FIGS. 4 to 5, the stitches of the front sleeve 4a are attached to the needles I to L of the front bed, and the needles I to of the rear bed are used. L shows a state where the stitches of the rear sleeve 4b are locked. A neckline 9 is formed on the left side of the needle C of the front bed. At the location where the neckline 9 is formed, the stitches corresponding to the neckline are removed from the needles, so the body formed on both sides of the neckline is formed on the opposite side, that is, on the right side of the neckline The front body formed on the right sleeve 14 side and the front body formed on the left side of the neckline can be moved to the left sleeve 4 side. Thereby, the front body 2a can be moved to the sleeve 4 side and joined, and the transfer of the stitch of the sleeve 4 in which the stitch of the next course is not performed becomes unnecessary. In the present embodiment, the neckline is provided only on the front body 2a, but the neckline may be formed on the rear body 2b as well as the front body 2a. In course 2 of FIG. 6, the stitch on the body side end of the front sleeve 4a is transferred to the TR jack i of the rear TR jack bed, and in course 3, the rear TR jack bed is racked one pitch to the left, and The front body 2a and the front sleeve 4a are joined to the needle H by being overlapped on the back side of the stitch on the sleeve side end of the front body 2a locked to the needle H. The yarn is supplied to C to H, and a stitch of the next course is formed on the front body 2a. In course 5, after the yarn feeder 21 is turned over, yarn is supplied to the needles H to C of the front bed to knit the front body 2a. In course 6, the newly formed stitches of the front body 2a are transferred to the TR jacks d to i of the rear TR jack bed, and in course 7 in FIG. And the front body 2a and the front sleeve 4a are adjacent to each other. As shown in the course 2 of FIG. 6 to the course 7 of FIG. 7, the knitting for joining the front body 2a to the front sleeve 4a formed on the same side with respect to the shoulder line 15 is performed. By repeating the movement while moving to the 4 side, all the stitches of the front sleeve 4a are joined to the front body 2a as shown in the course 8 of FIG. 7, and the joining of the front body 2a and the front sleeve 4a is completed to the shoulder line. It will be in the state of having done.
Next, a description will be given of a method of joining the front body 2a and the rear sleeve 4b at a portion where the joining of the front body 2a and the front sleeve 4a is completed, and the front body 2a and the front body 4 enter the rear body side beyond the shoulder line 15. Even after the shoulder line 15 is crossed, the front body 2a is moved to the sleeve 4 side for joining, but since the sleeve 4 is knitted with the front sleeve 4a and the rear sleeve 4b folded around the shoulder line, In joining with the back sleeve 4b, joining is performed while moving the front body 2a to the left side which is the side of the neckline. In the course 9, the stitch on the body side end of the rear sleeve 4b is transferred to the needle L of the front bed and overlapped on the back side of the stitch on the sleeve side end of the front body 2a. In the courses 10 and 11, yarn is supplied to the needles G to L of the front bed to form a stitch of the course following the front body 2a. Next, in the course 12, the stitches of the front body 2a are transferred to the TR jacks g to l of the rear TR jack bed, and in the course 13 in FIG. 8, after the rear TR jack bed is racked to the right by one pitch, the front body 2a is moved. Transfer to needles F to K on the front bed. In course 14, after the back bed is left-pitch racked by one needle, the stitches of the rear sleeve 4b locked to the needles K of the back bed are transferred to the front bed and overlapped on the back side of the stitches of the front body 2a. In the courses 15 and 16 shown in FIG. 8, yarn is supplied to the needles F to K of the front bed to knit the front body 2a. Thereafter, the knitting shown in the course 12 of FIG. 7 to the course 16 of FIG. 8 is repeatedly performed to join the front body 2a and the back sleeve 4b formed on the opposite side with respect to the shoulder line 15 as shown in the course 17. Thus, only the stitches of the front body 2a and the back body 2b are formed. Thereafter, the front body 2a and the back body 2b are joined by the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-273051, and the knitting of the sweater 1 is completed.
As described above, in the knitting method of the present embodiment, when joining the front body 2a and the sleeve 4, it is necessary to transfer the stitches of the sleeve 4 which have been knitted and do not form new stitches to the front body 2a side. Therefore, even when a weak yarn is used for knitting or when knitting is performed by a flat gauge knitting machine having a fine gauge, problems such as yarn breakage can be avoided. When the front body 2a is moved toward the sleeve 4 and joined, the stitch of the front body 2a to be moved is not overlapped on the back side of the stitch of the sleeve 4, but the stitch of the front body 2a is attached to the front side of the stitch of the sleeve 4. Since the stitches of the front body 2a on the side to be moved appear on the surface of the knitted fabric, a clean armhole line can be formed. In the above-described embodiment, when the front body 2a is moved to the sleeve 4 and joined, the stitch at the body side end of the sleeve 4 is overlapped with the stitch of the front body 2a, and then the stitch of the front body 2a is stitched. The stitches of the body are overlapped on the front side of the stitches of the sleeves by moving the stitches of the body to the sleeves 4 side. The stitch of the body 2a may be overlapped on the front side of the stitch of the sleeve 4 by moving the body to the sleeve side after moving to the jack, and then transferring the stitch of the sleeve 4 back.
In the above-described embodiment, after the knitting of the sleeve 4 is completed, the front body 2a is moved and joined, but the sleeve 4 after the knitting is completed until the knitting of the sleeve is not burdened. It may be moved to the side 2a and joined. Also, the case where the bodies 2a, 2b and the sleeves 4 are knitted in a flat knitting structure has been described. When knitting is performed by arranging empty needles for transfer, knitting can be performed with a knitting structure having a mixture of front and back stitches such as links, garters, and ribs.
INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY As described above, in the method of knitting knitted garment of the present invention, a tubular body and a tubular sleeve are joined to form a single tubular body and knit longer than the other body. When one body is joined to the knitted sleeves and one body is knitted into a silhouette knitted fabric that has crossed the shoulder line and entered the other body, stitch formation for the next course continues. When the body is moved to the sleeve side and the neckline side to join, and when the body and sleeve stitches are overlapped, the body stitches are overlapped so that they appear on the front side of the sleeve stitches. Even when used for knitting or when knitting with a flat gauge knitting machine with a small gauge, knitting can be performed without worrying about thread breakage, and a beautiful armhole line where the stitch of the body appears on the front side of the stitch of the sleeve is formed Product value You can organize the high knitted garments.

Claims (2)

少なくとも前後一対のニードルベッドを対向配置した横編機を用いて第1の身頃と第2の身頃が前後に重ねられた状態で編成される筒状の身頃と、それぞれが前後に重ねられた状態で編成される左右筒状の両袖とを、裾から脇下まで編成した後、袖と身頃を接合するニット衣類の編成方法であって、以下の工程を含むことを特徴とするニット衣類の編成方法;
1) 第1および第2の身頃、および左右両袖を1つの筒状体として編成する工程
2) 工程1の間に第1、第2の身頃の少なくとも一方の身頃に衿ぐりを形成する工程
3) 袖を身頃側に移動さ身頃と袖を袖ぐり部で接合する工程
4) 袖と第1の身頃のコース編成を完了し、残る第2の身頃のコース編成を続行する工程
5) 工程4においてコース編成が続行される第2の身頃を肩ラインまで編成するとともに、その間に第2の身頃を袖側に移動させながら、第2の身頃と、肩ラインを基準として同じ側に形成される袖とを接合部において第2の身頃の編目が袖の編目の表側に現れるように接合する工程
6) コース編成が続行される第2の身頃を肩ラインを越えて編成するとともに、その間に第2の身頃を衿ぐり側に移動させながら、第2の身頃と、工程5で接続された袖と肩ラインを基準として反対側に形成された袖とを接合する工程
7) 第1の身頃と第2の身頃を肩部で接合する工程
A tubular body knitted in a state where the first body and the second body are stacked back and forth using a flat knitting machine in which at least a pair of front and rear needle beds are opposed to each other, and a state where each is stacked back and forth A method of knitting a knitted garment in which the left and right tubular sleeves knitted together are knitted from the hem to the armpits, and then the sleeve is joined to the body, and the method includes the following steps. Organization method;
1) a step of knitting the first and second bodies and both left and right sleeves as one cylindrical body 2) a step of forming a neckline on at least one of the first and second bodies during step 1 3) The sleeve is moved to the body side, and the body and the sleeve are joined at the armhole. 4) The knitting of the sleeve and the first body is completed, and the knitting of the remaining second body is continued. 5) The step In step 4, while knitting the second body to continue the course formation up to the shoulder line, while moving the second body to the sleeve side, the second body and the second body are formed on the same side based on the shoulder line. Step 6) joining the stitches of the second body at the joint portion so that the stitches of the second body appear on the front side of the stitches of the sleeves 6) Knitting the second body over which the course knitting is continued beyond the shoulder line, and While moving the second body to the side of the neck, And a step 7 of joining the sleeves, which are formed on the side opposite the connected sleeves and shoulders line in step 5 as a reference) bonding a first body and the second body at shoulder
頃を袖側に移動させ身頃の編目が袖の編目の表側に現れるように身頃と袖を接合する工程が以下の工程を含むことを特徴とする請求の範囲第1項記載のニット衣類の編成方法;
1) 袖の身頃側側端の編目を身頃の袖側側端の編目側に目移しし、袖の編目を身頃の編目の裏側に重ねる工程
2) 身頃を袖側に移動させる工程
2. A knitted garment according to claim 1, wherein the step of moving the body to the sleeve side and joining the body and the sleeve so that the stitch of the body appears on the front side of the stitch of the sleeve includes the following steps. Method;
1) The step of transferring the stitch on the body side end of the sleeve to the stitch side of the sleeve side end of the body and overlapping the sleeve stitch on the back side of the stitch of the body 2) The step of moving the body to the sleeve side
JP2000567777A 1998-08-28 1999-08-27 How to knit knitted clothing Expired - Fee Related JP3541177B2 (en)

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PCT/JP1999/004676 WO2000012799A1 (en) 1998-08-28 1999-08-27 Knitting method for knit clothing

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