JP6193127B2 - Oil-in-water emulsion containing a mixture of spherical and non-spherical shielding particles of composite material - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing a mixture of spherical and non-spherical shielding composite particles. This composition is intended for topical use and more particularly aims at photoprotecting the skin and / or hair from ultraviolet (UV) radiation.

  Light irradiation with a wavelength of 280 nm to 400 nm causes the human epidermis to tan, and more specifically, the 280 nm to 320 nm light rays, known as UV-B rays, can cause burns on the skin and erythema that can harm the progression of natural sunburn. It is known to cause.

  For these reasons and for aesthetic reasons, there is a certain need for a method of controlling this natural sunburn and thereby controlling the color of the skin. Therefore, this UV-B radiation should be shielded.

  It is also known that UV-A rays with a wavelength of 320-400 nm, which cause skin tanning, tend to cause harmful changes in it, especially in sensitive skin or skin that has been continuously exposed to solar radiation. Yes. UV-A rays cause the generation of wrinkles that lead to premature skin aging, particularly losing skin elasticity.

  Therefore, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons, it is increasingly desirable to control the effects of UV-A rays on the skin, for example, to protect the natural elasticity of the skin. Therefore, it is desirable to shield UV-A radiation.

  In order to protect skin and keratin materials from UV radiation, antisun compositions containing organic screening agents active within the UV-A and UV-B ranges are commonly used.

There are many cosmetics containing one or more inorganic and / or organic UV screening agents. In particular, cosmetic products for skin application often contain TiO ₂ particulates that protect the skin from UV light.

  The metal oxide fine particles generally have an average basic particle size of 100 nm or less, preferably 5 nm to 100 nm, preferably 10 nm to 100 nm, and preferentially 15 to 50 nm.

  One of the main drawbacks of inorganic screening agents is that conventional sunscreen formulations based on metal oxide pigments are applied to the skin and then the unevenness of the pigment is uneven on the skin. It causes a rough distribution, which can harm the quality over the desired photoprotective effect. Defective distribution of shielding metal oxide pigments found on the surface of the skin is associated with a large lack of homogeneity (poor pigment dispersion in the support) in the original composition itself (before application). There are many cases.

Another drawback of sunscreen compositions based on inorganic screening agents, and more particularly based on titanium oxide TiO ₂ , is cosmetically undesirable on the film when applied to the skin in the form of a film. It has a whitening effect and generally has a low reputation by users. This effect is even more pronounced when the concentration of the mineral shielding agent in the composition is high. To avoid this problem, it would of course be possible to use a reduced amount of inorganic screening agent, but the resulting composition will certainly provide a film that exhibits acceptable transparency on the skin, It does not provide adequate protection in the UV range and would greatly limit the benefits of such a choice.

  Each patent application FR2882371, WO2006 / 083326 and WO98 / 37964 describe various methods of producing composite particles formed from materials comprising metal oxide nanoparticles such as titanium dioxide.

  Application WO2006 / 061835 describes a composition comprising a spherical composite based on a metal oxide and a hydrophobic polymer.

  Known in the cosmetics field is application EP1388550 and application WO98 / 22539, the application EP1388550 for the use and photoprotection of composite particles comprising a core formed from a metal oxide coated with a silicone or fluoro compound Application WO98 / 22539, intended for its use as a cosmetic composition, describes a sunscreen containing silicon particles and / or particles of another solid compound in which silicon is in stoichiometric excess. The particles have an average diameter of less than 0.12 μm and are coated with an oxide layer having a thickness of 0.001 to 0.3 μm.

An anti-sun preparation which can contain TiO ₂ encapsulated in spherical particles of a composite material having an average particle diameter of 2 to 7 μm and spherical silica particles as a shielding system is sold under the name Sunsil T50 by Sunjin Chemical or Creations, for example. Eospoly TR made by Couleurs is known. These shielding materials have the disadvantage that they make the formulation still poor in its stability and cosmetic quality, eg elongation.

Patent application US2008 / 188574 is a sunscreen oil / water emulsion comprising organic shielding agent, spherical particles of composite material of TiO ₂ encapsulated in spherical silica particles, eg Sunsil TIN40 from Sunjin Chemical in combination with Veegum type clay. Is disclosed. This composition is not completely satisfactory in terms of stability or cosmetic quality.

JP 2007-302647 and the following documents disclose water-in-oil emulsions containing TiO ₂ based composite particles combined with clay as shielding agents.
"Micapoly Foundation Creations Couleurs- Guide Formulary" No. 1210-1 / 2010, January 2010, URL: http://www.creationcouleurs.com/formulations/sun/spf_foundations/1201_1_2010micapolyfoundation.pdf, "Stradivarius Foundation Creations Couleurs- Guide Formulary '' No. 1406-2 / 2010, February 2010, URL: http://www.creationcouleurs.com/formulations/sun/spf_foundations/1406_2_2010stradivariusFoundationColour.pdf, `` Sun Protection Fluid Creations Couleurs- Guide Formulary '' No. 2804-1 / 2008, January 2008, URL: http://www.creationcouleurs.com/formulations/sun/low_spf_/2804_1_2008mSunProtectionFluidW_0.pdf, `` Eospoly Protection Sun Cream Creations Couleurs- Guide Formulary '' No. 3103-1 / 2008, January 2008, URL: http://www.creationcouleurs.com/formulations/sun/low_spf_/3103_1_2008meospolysuncr.pdf

  Since these emulsions tend to give the skin a greasy, sticky feel, they are not completely satisfactory in terms of cosmetic quality.

FR2882371 WO2006 / 083326 WO98 / 37964 WO2006 / 061835 EP1388550 WO98 / 22539 US2008 / 188574 JP 2007-302647 A FR0853634 EP-A-0955039 US2004-175338 EP669323 US2463264 US6225467 WO2004 / 085412 WO06 / 035000 WO06 / 034982 WO06 / 034991 WO06 / 035007 WO2006 / 034992 WO2006 / 034985 WO-A-92 / 06778 DE19943681 DE19943668 DE4227391 DE19608117 JP-A-11-60437 JP-A-8-311003 EP0697244 EP0697245 EP0708079 DE19622612 JP-A10-17593 WO03 / 024412 US5863886 WO96 / 25388 WO96 / 14926 WO96 / 16930 WO96 / 25384 WO97 / 40124 WO97 / 31890 DE19750246 DE19750245 DE19631225 DE19647060 EP1069142 FR2315991 FR2416008

"Micapoly Foundation Creations Couleurs- Guide Formulary" No. 1210-1 / 2010, January 2010, URL: http://www.creationcouleurs.com/formulations/sun/spf_foundations/1201_1_2010micapolyfoundation.pdf "Stradivarius Foundation Creations Couleurs- Guide Formulary" No. 1406-2 / 2010, February 2010, URL: http://www.creationcouleurs.com/formulations/sun/spf_foundations/1406_2_2010stradivariusFoundationColour.pdf "Sun Protection Fluid Creations Couleurs- Guide Formulary" No. 2804-1 / 2008, January 2008, URL: http://www.creationcouleurs.com/formulations/sun/low_spf_/2804_1_2008mSunProtectionFluidW_0.pdf "Eospoly Protection Sun Cream Creations Couleurs- Guide Formulary" No. 3103-1 / 2008, January 2008, URL: http://www.creationcouleurs.com/formulations/sun/low_spf_/3103_1_2008meospolysuncr.pdf C.M.Hansen, "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967) "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC West Henrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004) Milton J. Rosen, “Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups”, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55 Milton J. Rosen, “Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants”, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, 116, 7, 67-70 Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965) B.L.Diffey, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989)

  Therefore, there is still a need for a composition for UV sun protection that provides effective photoprotection and does not have the above disadvantages.

  Surprisingly, advantageously, the inventors have shown that this need can be met by the composition according to the invention.

The first object of the present invention is to
a) Spherical composite particles A having an average particle size of 0.1 to 30 μm, including a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent, wherein the content of the inorganic screening agent in the particles is in the range of 1% to 70% by weight. Including at least particles A,
b) A non-spherical composite particle B having an average particle size of 0.1 to 30 μm comprising a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent, wherein the content of the inorganic screening agent in the particle is in the range of 1% by weight to 70% by weight. The invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing a mixture of composite particles comprising at least spherical composite particles B in a cosmetically acceptable medium.

  The composition according to the invention is effective for photoprotection. Moreover, the composition has a homogeneous appearance, especially on a microscopic scale, and does not produce a white deposit when applied to the skin.

  The following description and examples represent other advantages, embodiments and characteristics of the invention.

Definitions The following definitions are used herein.

  The composition according to the invention is a photoprotective composition intended to shield UV radiation, which composition is also known as a sun protection composition or a sun protection composition.

  The term `` cosmetically acceptable '' has a favorable color, scent and feel and results in any unacceptable discomfort (irritation, stiffness or redness) that is likely to discourage consumers from using the composition. Without compatibility with the skin and / or its outer skin or mucous membrane.

  The term “oil-in-water emulsion” means any macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising a continuous aqueous phase and an oil phase dispersed in the form of droplets in the aqueous phase.

  The phrase “average particle size” of the particles is considered to mean the parameter D [4,3] measured using a “Mastersizer 2000” particle size analyzer (Malvern). The light intensity scattered by the particles according to the angle of illumination is converted into a particle size distribution according to Mie theory. The parameter D [4,3] is measured, which is the average diameter of a sphere with the same volume as the particle. For spherical particles, one will often refer to “average diameter”.

  The term “average basic particle size” means the particle size of particles that are not agglomerated.

  The term “spherical” means that the sphericity index of a particle, ie the ratio of its maximum diameter to its minimum diameter, is less than 1.2.

  The term “non-spherical” refers to a particle in three-dimensional space (length, width, thickness or height) where the ratio of the longest dimension to the shortest dimension is greater than 1.2. The particle size of the present invention is determined by scanning an electron microscope and analyzing the image. This includes particles of parallelepiped shape (rectangular or square face), disc shape (circular face) or elliptical (oval face), characterized by three dimensions: length, width and height. When the shape is circular, the length and width are the same and correspond to the diameter of the disc, whereas the height corresponds to the thickness of the disc. When the surface is oval, the length and width correspond to the major and minor axes of the ellipse, respectively, and the height corresponds to the thickness of the elliptical disk formed by the platelets. In the case of a parallelepiped, the length and width may be the same or different. If they are the same size, the shape of the parallelepiped face is a square, otherwise the shape is a rectangle. The height corresponds to the thickness of the parallelepiped.

Shielding composite particles The spherical and non-spherical shielding composite particles used according to the present invention comprise a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent. The matrix includes one or more organic and / or inorganic materials.

Inorganic UV-screening agents are generally metal oxides, preferably titanium oxide, zinc oxide or iron oxide, or mixtures thereof, is selected from titanium dioxide TiO _2, more particularly.

  These metal oxides may be in the form of particles having an average particle size generally less than 0.2 μm. Advantageously, the metal oxide particles used have an average basic particle size of 0.1 μm or less.

  These metal oxides may also be in the form of layers having an average thickness of generally less than 0.2 μm, preferably multilayers.

  According to a first variant, the composite particles contain a matrix comprising organic and / or inorganic materials in which matrix particles of inorganic UV screening agents are included. According to this embodiment, the matrix has inclusions and the inorganic UV screening agent particles are in the matrix inclusions.

  According to a second variant, the composite particles contain a matrix made of organic and / or inorganic materials, which matrix is at least one layer that may be bonded to the matrix using a binder. It is coated with an inorganic UV screening agent.

  According to a third variant, the composite particles contain an inorganic UV screening agent coated with at least one layer of organic and / or inorganic material.

  The matrix may also be formed from one or more organic or inorganic materials. In that case, this is the absence of a continuous phase of a material such as an alloy, i.e. a continuous phase in which the material can no longer dissociate, or a material composed of an organic or inorganic material, e.g. It may be a continuous phase.

  According to one variant, the composite particles are in particular biodegradable or biocompatible materials, fatty substances such as surfactants or in particular when the spherical composite particles comprise a matrix coated with a layer of UV screening agent. It may be further coated with an additional coating selected from emulsifiers, polymers and oxides.

Spherical composite particle A
The inorganic material that can be used in the matrix of spherical composite particles according to the present invention can be selected from the group formed from glass, silica and aluminum oxide, and mixtures thereof.

  Organic materials that can be used to form the matrix include poly (meth) acrylates, polyamides, silicones, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes, polycaprolactams, polysaccharides, polypeptides, polyvinyl derivatives, waxes, polyesters and polyethers, and these Selected from the group formed from

Preferably, the matrix of spherical composite particles contains a material or mixture of materials selected from:
-SiO ₂ ,
-Polymethyl methacrylate,
-Copolymers of styrene and (meth) acrylic acid C1 / C5 alkyl derivatives,
-Polyamide such as nylon.

  Spherical composite particles are characterized by an average diameter of 0.1 μm to 30 μm, preferably 0.2 μm to 20 μm, more preferably 0.3 μm to 10 μm, advantageously 0.5 μm to 10 μm.

  According to a first variant, the spherical composite particles contain a matrix comprising organic and / or inorganic materials in which matrix particles of inorganic UV screening agents are included.

  According to this first variant, the particles of inorganic UV screening agent are generally characterized by an average basic particle size of less than 200 nm. Advantageously, the metal oxide particles used have an average basic particle size of 0.1 μm or less.

Examples of composite particles corresponding to this deformation form include Sunsil TIN 50 and Sunsil TIN 40 products sold by Sunjin Chemical. These spherical composite particles having an average particle diameter of ₂ to 7 μm are formed by encapsulating TiO ₂ in a silica matrix.

The following particles are also mentioned.
-Spherical composite particles with an average particle size of 4-8 μm, containing TiO ₂ and SiO ₂ with the Eospoly TR trade name from Creations Couleurs,
-Composite particles containing TiO ₂ and styrene / alkyl acrylate copolymer matrix, sold under the name Eospoly UV TR22 HB 50 from Creations Couleurs
-Composite particles containing TiO ₂ and ZnO and PMMA matrix with the trade name Sun PMMA-T50 sold by Sunjin Chemical.

  According to a second variant, the spherical composite particles contain a matrix made of organic and / or inorganic material coated with at least one layer of inorganic UV screening agent that is bound to the matrix using a binder .

  According to this second variant, the average thickness of the layer of inorganic UV screening agent is generally from 0.001 to 0.2 μm, preferably from 0.01 to 0.1 μm.

  The spherical composite particles used according to the present invention have a particle size of 0.1-30 μm, preferably 0.3-20 μm, and even more preferentially 0.5-10 μm.

Among the composite particles that can be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of spherical composite particles containing TiO ₂ and SiO ₂ with the trade name STM ACS-0050510 from JGC Catalysts and Chemical.

  According to a third variant, the spherical composite particles contain an inorganic UV screening agent coated with at least one layer of organic and / or inorganic material. According to this third variant, the particles of inorganic UV screening agent are generally characterized by an average basic particle size of 0.001 to 0.2 μm. Advantageously, the metal oxide particles used have an average basic particle size of 0.01 to 0.1 μm.

  The spherical composite particles used according to the present invention have a particle size of 0.1-30 μm, preferably 0.3-20 μm, and even more preferentially 0.5-10 μm.

Non-spherical composite particle B
Organic materials that can be used to form the matrix of non-spherical shielding particles are selected from the group formed from polyamides, silicones, polysaccharides, polyvinyl derivatives, waxes and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

Of the organic materials that can be used, the following are preferred:
-Triethoxycaprylylsilane,
-Ethylene / vinyl acetate copolymer.

Inorganic materials that can be used in the matrix of non-spherical composite particles include the groups formed from mica, synthetic mica, talc, silica, aluminum oxide, boron nitride, kaolin, hydrotalcite, mineral clay and synthetic clay, and mixtures thereof Selected from. Preferably, these inorganic materials are selected from:
-Silica,
-Talc,
-Mica,
-Alumina.

The non-spherical composite particles of the present invention are characterized by three dimensions:
-Minimum is over 0.1μm, preferably over 0.3μm, better is over 0.5μm,
-Maximum is less than 30 μm, preferably 20 μm, better is 10 μm.

  The ratio of the largest dimension to the smallest dimension exceeds 1.2.

  The size of the particles of the present invention is determined by scanning electron microscopy and image analysis.

  Non-spherical shielding composite particles that can be used in accordance with the present invention will preferably be platelet-shaped.

  The term “platelet shape” means a parallelepiped shape.

  This can be smooth, rough, or porous.

  The composite particles in the form of platelets preferably have an average thickness of 0.1-10 μm, generally an average length of 0.5-30 μm, and an average width of 0.5-30 μm.

  The thickness is the smallest dimension, the width is the middle dimension, and the length is the longest dimension.

  According to a first variant, the composite particles contain a matrix comprising organic and / or inorganic materials in which matrix particles of inorganic UV screening agents are included.

  According to this first variant, the particles of the inorganic UV screening agent are generally characterized by an average basic particle size of less than 0.2 μm. Advantageously, the metal oxide particles used have an average basic particle size of 0.1 μm or less.

  According to a second variant, the composite particles contain a matrix made of organic and / or inorganic material coated with at least one layer of inorganic UV screening agent which is bound to the matrix using a binder.

  According to this second variant, the average thickness of the layer of inorganic UV screening agent is generally about 10 nanometers. The average thickness of the layer of inorganic UV screening agent is advantageously from 0.001 to 0.2 μm, preferably from 0.01 to 0.2 μm.

  According to a third variant, the non-spherical composite particles contain an inorganic UV screening agent coated with at least one layer of organic and / or inorganic material. According to this third variant, the particles of inorganic UV screening agent are generally characterized by an average basic particle size of 0.001 to 0.2 μm. Advantageously, the metal oxide particles used have an average basic particle size of 0.01 to 0.1 μm.

  The non-spherical composite particles used according to the present invention have a particle size of 0.1-30 μm, preferably 0.5-10 μm.

Preferably, the inorganic UV screening agent used in the composite particles is selected from metal oxides, in particular titanium oxide, zinc oxide or iron oxide, more particularly titanium dioxide (TiO ₂ ).

Preferably, the matrix of composite particles contains a material or mixture of materials selected from:
-SiO ₂ ,
-Alumina,
-Mica,
-Alumina / triethoxycaprylylsilane mixture,
-Talc,
- Nylon.

More preferably, the matrix of composite particles is formed from a material or mixture of materials selected from:
-Alumina,
-Alumina / triethoxycaprylylsilane mixture,
-Talc,
-Silica,
-Mica.

Among the composite particles that can be used according to the present invention, the following particles can also be mentioned.
-Composite particles containing TiO ₂ and an alumina matrix under the trade name Matlake OPA sold by Sensient LCW
-Composite particles containing the TiO ₂ and alumina / triethoxycaprylyl silane matrix under the trade name Matlake OPA AS sold by Sensient LCW
-Composite particles containing TiO ₂ ultrafine particles deposited on the surface of talc platelets under the trade name TTC 30 sold by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.
-Composite particles containing TiO ₂ ultrafine particles deposited on the surface of talc platelets under the trade name Silseem Mistypearl Yellow sold by Nippon Koken Kogyo Co., Ltd. (NKK).

  The content of the mixture of composite particles in the composition according to the invention is from 1% to 70% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 45% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is in the range of 20% by weight.

  According to a particularly preferred form, the oil phase (anhydrous phase) of the emulsion comprises at least one polar oil.

  The term “anhydrous medium” refers to any water that contains less than 3% by weight of water, or less than 1% by weight of water, or more specifically less than 0.5% by weight of water, or more anhydrous than the total weight of the composition. Means a support.

Polar oil The term `` polar oil '' means that at 25 ° C, the solubility parameter δ _d that characterizes the dispersive interaction is greater than 16, and the solubility parameter δ _p that characterizes the polar interaction is arbitrarily greater than 0. Means a lipophilic compound. Each solubility parameter δ _d and δ _p is defined according to the Hansen classification. For example, the polar oil may be selected from esters, triglycerides and ethers.

  The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in three-dimensional space of Hansen solubility is described in an article by C.M. Hansen, “The three dimensional solubility parameters”, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space,
-δ _D characterizes the London dispersion force resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions,
_- [delta] _p is also characterized the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles, also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles,
- [delta] _h characterizes the specific interaction forces (e.g. hydrogen bonding, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.),
-δ _a is determined by the formula δ _a = (δ _p ² + δ _h ² ) ^1/2 .
The parameters δ _p , δ _h , δ _D and δ _a are represented by (J / cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

  The polar oil may be a volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

  This oil may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

  The term “hydrocarbon-based polar oil” is essentially formed from or constituted by carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, silicon atoms or fluorine atoms. Means no oil. This may include alcohol groups, ester groups, ether groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups and / or amide groups.

  Preferentially, the polar oil according to the invention has a surface tension of more than 10 mN / m at 25 ° C. atmospheric pressure.

  Surface activity is measured by static tension measurement using a Du Nouy ring.

  The principle of measurement is as follows (measurement performed under atmospheric pressure at 25 ° C.).

The weight of the ring is eliminated by the counterweight. The ring is fully immersed in the liquid before evaluation and then withdrawn very slowly until the force is maximized. From this maximum force, F _max , the surface tension is expressed by the equation: σ = F _max / 4πRf _corr (r, R, ρ) (where f _corr is the ring correction factor according to the ring geometry and density ρ. )

  Each parameter r and R represents the inner radius and the outer radius of the ring, respectively.

According to the first embodiment, the polar oil may be a non-volatile oil. In particular, the non-volatile polar oil may be selected from the following list of oils and mixtures thereof.
-Hydrocarbon-based polar oils such as phytostearyl esters such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol (especially this fatty acid) Can have a chain length of C _{4 to} C ₃₆ , especially C _{18 to} C ₃₆ , these oils are optionally linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, these oils are especially heptanoic acid or octane Acid triglyceride, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil (820.6 g / mol), corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea fat, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet tonsil oil, palm oil Rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, a Farfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, mallow oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui nut oil, passion flower oil or musk Rose oil, shea butter or alternatively caprylic / capric triglycerides such as those sold by Sterineries Dubois or Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® from Dynamit Nobel May be sold under the name).
-Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, for example dicaprylyl ether.
A hydrocarbon of the formula RCOOR ′, wherein RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R ′ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms. Base esters such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearic acid or isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, adipine Diisopropyl acid, heptanoic acid ester, especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoic acid, decanoic acid or ricinoleic alcohol or polyalcohol, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octoate, tridecyl octoate, 4-dihexane Tan acid and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, 2-diethyl hexanoate propylene glycol and mixtures thereof, benzoic acid C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol, hexyl laurate, neopentanoate esters such as neopentanoate Isodecyl, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate , Isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, and myristyl myristate.
-Polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers and diols, such as those described in patent application FR0853634, in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. This includes inter alia the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or a copolymer of polyol and diacid dimer, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA.
Polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for example (tetrahydroxystearic acid / tetraisostearic acid) dipentaerythrityl.
-Fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol.
- C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof.
-Optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based fluorinated oils.
-Fatty acids containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example oleic acid.
-Dialkyl carbonates in which the two alkyl chains are optionally identical or different, for example dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis.
-Non-volatile oils of high molecular weight, for example 400-10000 g / mol, in particular 650-10000 g / mol, for example:
i) Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 (MW = 7300 g / mol) sold or manufactured by ISP.
ii) esters, for example:
a) Linear fatty acid ester having 35 to 70 carbon atoms, for example, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697.05 g / mol)
b) Hydroxyl esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965.58 g / mol)
c) aromatic esters, for example tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19g / mol), benzoic acid C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol, 2-phenylethyl benzoate and salicylate butyl octyl
d) C ₂₄ ~C ₂₈ branched fatty acid or esters of fatty alcohols, for example those described in patent application EP-A-0955039, especially citrate Torii SOARER Kizil (MW = 1033.76g / mol), tetra isononanaldehyde acid pentaerythrityl ( MW = 697.05 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891.51 g / mol), glyceryl tris (2-decyl) tetradecanoate (MW = 1143.98 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g) / mol), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate-2 (MW = 1232.04 g / mol) or tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoic acid pentaerythrityl (MW = 1538.66 g / mol)
e) Esters and polyesters of dimer diols, and monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acids, such as dimer diols and fatty acid esters, and dimer diols, and dimer carboxylic acid esters, such as sold by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd. Lusplan DD-DA5 (registered trademark) and Lusplan DD-DA7 (registered trademark) described in patent application US2004-175338, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference
-A mixture of the above.

Preferably, the polar oils are benzoic acid C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol, diisopropyl sebacate, lauroyl sarcosinate isopropyl, dicaprylyl carbonate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, salicylate butyl octyl neopentanoate 2-octyldodecyl, dicaprylyl ether, It is selected from isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate and tridecyl trimellitate.

Preferably, the polar oil is a benzoic acid C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl.

  The mass content of polar oil (not including lipophilic organic screening agent) relative to the total weight of the composition is preferably 1% to 95%, more preferentially 10% to 70%, relative to the total weight of the composition It is.

  The “fatty phase” of the composition according to the invention may also comprise waxes, nonpolar oils or mixtures thereof.

  The term “wax” is considered to mean a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature and generally has a melting point above 35 ° C.

  Nonpolar oils and waxes conventionally used in cosmetic compositions can be used in the composition according to the invention.

  The composition according to the invention can also comprise additional cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents.

  One skilled in the art will select the active agent depending on the desired effect on the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic UV screening agent.

  Among organic UV screening agents, the following hydrophobic or hydrophilic UV screening agents are particularly mentioned.

The term “hydrophobic screening agent”
Any lipophilic, ie any screening agent that can be completely dissolved in the molecular state in the liquid fatty phase or can be dissolved in the liquid fatty phase in colloidal form (eg in micellar form)
-Means any screening agent that is insoluble in both the liquid fatty phase and the liquid aqueous phase.

  The term “hydrophilic screening agent” means any screening agent that can be completely dissolved in the molecular state in the liquid aqueous phase, or that can be dissolved in the liquid aqueous phase in a colloidal form (eg in micellar form).

Hydrophobic UV-A screening agent dibenzoylmethane derivatives:
In particular butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane sold under the trade name Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.
Isopropyldibenzoylmethane.

Aminobenzophenone:
N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul A + from BASF,
1,1 ′-(1,4-piperazinediyl) bis [1- [2- [4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] phenyl] methanone (CAS 919803-06-8).

Anthranilic acid derivatives:
Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA in particular by Symrise.

4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:
1,1-dicarboxy- (2,2′-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

Merocyanine derivatives:
Octyl-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate.

In the context of the present invention and according to a particular embodiment, the following hydrophobic screening agent (A) is used.
-Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, and / or
-N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate.

Hydrophilic UV-A screening agent
-Terephthalylidene dican full sulfonic acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX from Chimex

  -Bis-benzazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US2463264, more particularly a compound sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by Symrise, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.

  A preferred water-soluble UV-A screening agent is terephthalylidene dican full sulfonic acid.

Hydrophobic UV-B screening agent Paraaminobenzoate:
-Ethyl PABA,
-Ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA,
-Ethylhexyldimethyl PABA (Escalol 507 from ISP)

Salicylic acid derivatives:
Especially homosalat sold under the name Eusolex HMS from Rona / EM Industries,
In particular, ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS from Symrise,
In particular, dipropyl glycol salicylate sold under the name Dipsal from Scher,
Salicylic acid TEA sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS by Symrise.

Cinnamic acid ester Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX from DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.
Isopropyl methoxycinnamate,
In particular, isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trademark Neo Heliopan E 1000 from Symrise,
Diisopropyl methylcinnamate,
Cinnoxate,
Dimethoxycinnamate ethylhexanoate glyceryl.

β, β'-diphenyl acrylate derivatives:
Octocrylene sold under the brand name Uvinul N539, in particular by BASF,
In particular, etokurylene sold under the trademark Uvinul N35 by BASF.

Benzylidene camphor derivatives:
3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SD from Chimex
In particular, methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name Eusolex 6300 from Merck,
Polyacrylamide methylbenzylidene camphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SW from Chimex.

Triazine derivatives:
Especially ethylhexyl triazone sold under the trademark Uvinul T150 from BASF,
Diethylhexylbutamide triazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V,
2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine,
2,4,6-tris (diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine,
2,4-bis (dineopentyl 4′-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4′-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine,
2,4-bis (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine,
Patent US6225467, patent application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC West Henrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004) The described symmetrical triazine screening agents, especially 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (especially 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5- Triazine) and 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the latter two shielding agents being patented by Beiersdorf, WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, (It is described in WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992 and WO2006 / 034985.)

Imidazoline derivatives:
Dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline ethylhexyl propionate.

Benzalmalonate derivatives:
Polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functional groups, such as Polysilicone-15, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol SLX from DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.
Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.

Within the context of the present invention and according to one particular embodiment, the following hydrophobic UV-B screening agents are used in the compositions of the present invention.
-Ethylhexyl salicylate,
-Octocrylene,
-Ethylhexyl triazone.

Hydrophilic UV-B screening agents The following p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives:
PABA,
Glyceryl PABA and in particular PEG-25 PABA sold under the trade name Uvinul P25 by BASF.

In particular phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sold under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck,
Ferulic acid,
Salicylic acid,
Methoxycinnamic acid DEA,
Benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL from Chimex
Benzalkonium camphormethosulfate manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SO.

  A preferred UVB screening agent is phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

Mixed UVA and UVB hydrophobic screening agent Benzophenone derivatives:
Benzophenone-1, sold in particular under the brand name Uvinul 400 from BASF,
Benzophenone-2, especially sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 from BASF
Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone sold under the trade name Uvinul M40, in particular by BASF
Benzophenone-6 sold in particular under the trade name Helisorb 11 from Norquay,
Benzophenone-8, sold in particular under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 from American Cyanamid,
Benzophenone-10,
Benzophenone-11,
Benzophenone-12.

Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:
-Drometrizole trisiloxane, sold in particular under the name Silatrizole from Rhodia Chimie or manufactured under the name Meroxyl XL from the company Chimex
-Methylenebis (benzotria), sold in solid form, especially under the trade name Mixxim BB / 100 from Fairmount Chemical, or sold as an aqueous dispersion, especially under the trade name Tinosorb M, from Ciba Specialty Chemicals. Zolyl) tetramethylbutylphenol.

Bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives:
In particular bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyltriazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy.

Benzoxazole derivatives:
In particular, 2,4-bis [5- (1-dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino sold under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V -1,3,5-triazine.

Preferred UVA and UVB hydrophobic organic screening agents are selected from:
-Drometrizole trisiloxane,
-Methylenebis (benzotriazolyl) tetramethylbutylphenol,
-Bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyltriazine.

Mixed UVA and UVB hydrophilic screening agents benzophenone derivatives containing at least one sulphonic acid group, such as benzophenone-4 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul MS 40 from BASF
Benzophenone-5 and benzophenone-9.

  When present, the organic screening agent is present in a content of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the invention.

Additives Compositions according to the present invention include inter alia organic solvents, ionic or non-ionic hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams Agent, perfume, preservative, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant, filler, polymer, propellant, basifying or acidifying agent or cosmetic and / or skin Standard cosmetic adjuvants selected from other ingredients commonly used in the field of medicine can also be included.

  Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols. The polyol can be selected from glycols, glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.

  Hydrophilic thickeners include carboxyvinyl polymers such as carbopol (carbomer) and pemulene (acrylate / copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate), polyacrylamide, such as Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13- C14 isoparaffin / laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80), optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2 -Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: polyacryloyldimethyltauronium ammonium) Or from SEPPIC Commercially available Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: polyacryloyldimethyltaurine sodium / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate), a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as SEPPIC Simulgel NS and Sepinov EMT 10, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, polysaccharides, especially gums such as xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

  Lipophilic thickeners are synthetic polymers such as poly (C10-C30 alkyl acrylate) sold under the names Intelimer IPA 13-1 and Intelimer IPA 13-6 from Landec, or modified clays such as hectorite And derivatives thereof, such as products sold under the name Bentone.

  The composition according to the invention can also contain additional cosmetic or dermatological active agents.

Among the active agents include the following:
-Single or mixed vitamins (A, C, E, K, PP, etc.) and their derivatives or precursors,
- Antioxidant,
-Free radical scavengers,
-An antiglycation agent,
-Sedatives,
-NO synthase inhibitors,
-Drugs that stimulate the synthesis of macromolecules of the dermis or epidermis and / or prevent their degradation,
-Drugs that stimulate fibroblast proliferation,
-Drugs that stimulate the growth of keratinocytes,
-Muscle relaxants,
-Tension agents,
-Matting agent,
-Keratolytic agents,
-Desquamating agent,
-Humectants such as polyols such as glycerol, butylene glycol or propylene glycol,
-Anti-inflammatory agents,
-Drugs that affect the energy metabolism of cells,
-Insect repellent,
-Substance P or substance CRGP antagonist,
-Hair loss inhibitors and / or hair restorers,
-Anti-wrinkle agent.

  It goes without saying that the person skilled in the art will carefully select the above-mentioned optional additional compounds and / or their amounts, which are worse by the additions that are advantageous properties inherently associated with the composition according to the invention. Will be unaffected or hardly affected.

  One skilled in the art will select the active agent depending on the desired effect on the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails.

Herbal form
The composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

  This may be anhydrous, in particular in the form of an anhydrous oil, cream or gel.

  The term “anhydrous composition” includes less than 3 wt% water, or less than 1 wt% water, or more particularly less than 0.5 wt% water, or even water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Means any composition that does not contain

  This may be aqueous, in particular in the form of an aqueous solution or an aqueous gel.

  The term “aqueous composition” includes less than 3% by weight of oil, or less than 1% by weight of oil, or more particularly less than 0.5% by weight of oil relative to the total weight of the composition, or even oil Means any composition that does not contain

  This may include an aqueous phase and a fatty phase, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, an aqueous gel or a simple or complex emulsion (O / W, W / O, O / W / O or W / O / W), such as an emulsion, It may be in the form of a cream or cream gel. This may optionally be packaged as an aerosol and may be in the form of a spray.

  The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and may have the appearance of an emulsion, cream or cream gel. This may optionally be packaged as an aerosol and may be in the form of a spray.

  Paddles, impellers, rotor stators or HPH types can be used for the emulsification process.

  To obtain stable emulsions with low emulsifying compounds (oil / emulsifier ratio> 25), it is possible to make a dispersion in the concentrated phase and then dilute the dispersion with the remaining aqueous phase It is.

  Through HPH (50-800 bar), it is also possible to obtain a stable dispersion with a drop size as small as 100 nm.

  Emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers used alone or as a mixture. Emulsions can also contain other types of stabilizers, such as fillers, or gelling or thickening polymers.

  Examples of emulsifying surfactants that can be used in the preparation of O / W emulsions include nonionic emulsifiers such as fatty acid and glycerol oxyalkylenated (more specifically polyoxyethylenated) esters, fatty acid and sorbitan oxy Oxyalkylenation of fatty alcohols, such as alkenylated esters, fatty acid oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) esters, eg PEG 100 stearate / glyceryl stearate mixture sold by ICI under the name Arlacel 165 (Oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) ethers, sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate, or fatty alcohols and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG), such as Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200 from Henkel respectively. Decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside sold under the name, e.g. SEPPIC under the name Montanov 68, Goldschmidt under the name Tegocare CG90 and Henkel under the name Emulgade KE3302 Examples include cetostearyl glucoside in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, and arachidyl glucoside in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanov 202. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of alkylpolyglucoside as defined above and the corresponding fatty alcohol, as described, for example, in the document WO-A-92 / 06778, is a self-emulsifying composition. Form may be sufficient.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises two identical or different surfactant units, each formed from a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail, via a hydrophilic head via a spacer group. It contains at least one emulsifier selected from dimeric surfactants known as “gemini surfactants” that are bound together. Such surfactants are described in patent applications DE19943681, DE19943668, DE4227391 and DE19608117, JP-A-11-60437, JP-A-8-311003, EP0697244, EP0697245, EP0708079, DE19622612 and JP-A10-17593, WO03 / No. 024412, US5863886, WO96 / 25388, WO96 / 14926, WO96 / 16930, WO96 / 25384, WO97 / 40124, WO97 / 31890, DE19750246, DE19750245, DE19631225, DE19647060. For detailed descriptions of various chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, see the following publications:
Milton J. Rosen, “Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups”, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, 113, December 1998, 49-55,
Milton J. Rosen, “Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants”, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, 116, 7, 67-70.

  Particularly preferred among the dimer surfactants are the anionic surfactants of formula (I):

(Wherein R ¹ and R ³ represent a linear C _{8 to} C ₁₆ alkyl group, R ² represents a C _{2 to} C ₈ alkylene group, and X and Y represent (C ₂ H of x = 10 to 15 respectively) ₄ O) represents an _x- RF group, RF = —SO ₃ M (wherein M represents an alkali metal atom).

  A preferred gemini surfactant from this group is the anionic compound of the formula: dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sodium sulfate (INCI name).

This gemini surfactant can be used, for example, in the following mixtures sold by the company Sasol under the name Ceralution®.
Ceralution® H: behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sodium sulfate,
Ceralution (registered trademark) F: sodium lauroyl lactate and dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sodium sulfate,
Ceralution (registered trademark) C: Aqua, capric acid / caprylic acid triglyceride, glycerin, ceteales-25, sodium cocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, sodium lauroyl lactate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, gum arabic , Xanthan gum, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben (each INCI name)

  A mixture of behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sodium sulfate (Ceralution® H) would be more specifically used.

  The concentration of gemini surfactant used in the present invention is preferably 0.001% -8%, preferably 0.01% -4%, especially 0.05% -3%, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition. .

  Among other emulsion stabilizers, isophthalic acid or sulfoisophthalic acid polymers, especially phthalate / sulfoisophthalate / glycol copolymers, such as those sold by Eastman Chemical under the name Eastman AQ Polymer (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S and AQ48 Ultra) Diethylene glycol / phthalate / isophthalate / 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol copolymer (INCI name: polyester-5) can also be used.

  Among other emulsion stabilizers, mention may also be made of hydrophobically modified 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers such as those described in patent application EP1069142.

  If it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase of this emulsion is a non-ionic vesicle dispersion prepared according to a known process (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR2315991 and FR2416008). It can contain vesicular dispersion.

(Example)
The following compositions 1-3 were prepared. Each component is expressed as a weight percent of the active substance relative to the total weight of the composition.

These compositions were evaluated according to the following properties.
Stability Evaluation of shielding effect and glidance after application to skin

Emulsion preparation method:
The aqueous phase A and the oily phase B _1, is prepared by mixing and mechanical stirring raw material at 80 ° C.. The resulting solution is macroscopically homogeneous. The emulsion is prepared by slowly adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase with stirring using a Moritz homogenizer at a stirring speed of 4000 rpm for 15 minutes. The resulting emulsion is cooled to 40 ° C. with stirring, and then oil phase B ₂ is added therein with gentle stirring, followed by phase C. The resulting emulsion is cooled to room temperature with gentle stirring. This is characterized by a drop size of 1 μm to 10 μm.

In vitro protocol for assessing shielding effectiveness The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined according to the "in vitro" method described by J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989) by BL Diffey . The measurement was performed using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer manufactured by Labsphere. Each composition is applied to a PMMA rough plate in the form of a homogeneous and uniform deposit at a rate of 1 mg / cm ² .

Protocol for Assessing the Stability of the Composition of the Invention The stability of the composition of the invention is determined by macroscopic and microscopic observations of its sides and at a shear rate of 200 s ^-1 at 25 ° C. It is evaluated by measuring its viscosity using a Rheomat 180 viscometer equipped with a shaft that is selected according to its viscosity. A composition is considered stable if its macroscopic and microscopic aspects and its viscosity are stable at room temperature for one month.

Protocol for assessing smoothness after application to the skin After applying the formulation to the skin, apply the formulation to the forearm at a ratio of ² mg / cm2 and wait for a drying time of 2 minutes. It is then evaluated by determining the frictional force felt between the finger and the forearm surface.

  result

  This result shows that the mixture of spherical particles of composite material and platelet-shaped particles of composite material according to the present invention is a low content screening agent, a highly efficient screening system, with high stability and good cosmetic quality. It is possible to obtain. For the composition containing the spherical shielding composite material (Example 1), the performance quality from the viewpoint of shielding effect, stability or cosmetic quality is inferior to that in combination with the present invention.

Claims (14)

a) Spherical composite particles A having an average particle size of 0.1 to 30 μm comprising a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent, wherein the content of the inorganic UV screening agent in the particles is in the range of 1% to 70% by weight. Containing at least the composite particles A,
b) A non-spherical composite particle B having an average particle size of 0.5 to 30 μm comprising a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent, wherein the content of the inorganic UV screening agent in the particle is in the range of 1 to 70% by weight. A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing a mixture of composite particles comprising at least non-spherical composite particles B in a cosmetically acceptable medium ,
Before SL nonspherical composite particles B is, contain a matrix is made of organic and / or inorganic material coated with an inorganic UV screening agent of at least one layer may be bonded to the matrix using a binder, Composition.   The composition of claim 1, wherein the matrix of spherical composite particles and the matrix of non-spherical particles comprise one or more organic and / or inorganic materials. The spherical composite particles child contains a matrix using a binder made of organic and / or inorganic material coated with an inorganic UV screening agent of at least one layer may be bonded to the matrix, claim The composition according to 1 or 2.   The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the spherical composite particles contain an inorganic UV screening agent coated with at least one layer of an organic and / or inorganic material. The inorganic UV-screening agent is selected from metal oxides, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4. 6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 , wherein the inorganic material used in the matrix of spherical composite particles is selected from the group formed from glass, silica and aluminum oxide, and mixtures thereof. object. The organic material used in the matrix of the spherical composite particles is poly (meth) acrylate, polyamide, silicone, polyurethane, polyethylene, polypropylene, polystyrene, polyhydroxyalkanoate, polycaprolactam, poly (butylene) succinate, polysaccharide, poly 7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 , selected from the group formed from peptides, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl resins, fluoropolymers, waxes, polyesters, polyethers, and mixtures thereof. The matrix of spherical composite particles is
-SiO ₂ ,
-PMMA,
-Copolymers of styrene and C1 / C5 alkyl acrylates,
- containing a mixture of materials or material is selected from polyamide composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7. The organic material constituting the matrix is
-Triethoxycaprylylsilane,
-Polymethyl methacrylate and acrylic copolymers, including other types of monomers
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 , selected from polyamides. An inorganic material constituting the matrix of the non-spherical composite particles,
-Silica,
-Talc,
-Mica,
- is selected from alumina, composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9. A matrix of said non-spherical composite particles,
-Alumina,
-Alumina / triethoxycaprylyl silane mixture,
-Talc,
-Silica,
- containing a mixture of materials or material is selected from mica, composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10. 12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 , wherein the non-spherical composite particles have a parallelepiped shape. 13. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 , comprising at least one polar oil. 14. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 , which also contains an organic UV screening agent.