JP6003000B2 - Cosmetics and method for producing cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic and a method for producing the cosmetic.

  Since cosmetics are required to have multiple functions, it is required to stably maintain various functional oily bases and functional granules in one cosmetic, which is very difficult to satisfy. In order to select the most suitable emulsifier for cosmetics, it is very cumbersome and requires a lot of labor, but it is difficult to obtain a stable emulsification with cosmetics containing various types of functional oil bases. There are many cases.

  The inventors have invented and disclosed a cosmetic having high emulsification dispersion stability without depending on a surfactant by using a specific polysaccharide or the like as an emulsification dispersant as an improvement measure. (See Patent Document 1).

JP 2007-238516 A

  However, the cosmetic shown in Patent Document 1 is not sufficient in terms of appearance (excessive oil film and oil droplets) and feeling of use (excessive stickiness), and there is room for improvement.

  The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and provides a cosmetic that can improve the appearance (reducing oil film and oil droplets) and the feeling of use (reducing the stickiness) and has excellent emulsification performance, and a method for producing the same. The purpose is to do.

  The inventors of the present invention provide a polycondensation polymer particle in which a hydrophobic group is introduced into a part of a hydroxyl group, or an α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt and the fatty acid groups of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt. It has been found that the appearance and feeling of use (stickiness) are improved by using a closed endoplasmic reticulum having a hydrophobic low-molecular compound intercalated in between, and the present invention has been completed. Specifically, the present invention provides the following.

(1) (A) Aqueous phase,
(B) an oil phase, and (C-1) a polycondensation polymer particle having a hydroxyl group and having a hydrophobic group partially introduced therein, and / or (C-2) an α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt and A cosmetic comprising a closed endoplasmic reticulum having a hydrophobic low-molecular compound incorporated between the fatty acid groups of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt.

  (2) The cosmetic according to (1), wherein the hydrophobic group includes a substituted or unsubstituted long-chain alkyl group.

  (3) The cosmetic according to (2), wherein the long-chain alkyl group is an alkyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

  (4) The cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the polycondensation polymer includes a sugar polymer.

一般式１
式中、Ｒは、各々独立して、水素、メチル、−［Ｒ’Ｏ］_ｍＨ（式中、Ｒ’はアルキル基、ｍは１以上の整数である）、又は−Ｒ’’ＯＣ_ｐＨ_２ｐ＋１（式中、Ｒ’’は側鎖に水酸基を有するアルキル基、ｐは８以上２２以下の整数である）であり、ｎは１００以上の整数である。 (5) The cosmetic according to (4), wherein the polycondensation polymer in which a hydrophobic group is introduced into a part of the hydroxyl group includes a compound represented by the general formula 1.

General formula 1
In the formula, each R is independently hydrogen, methyl, — [R′O] _m H (where R ′ is an alkyl group, m is an integer of 1 or more), or —R ″ OC _p. H _{2p + 1} (wherein R ″ is an alkyl group having a hydroxyl group in the side chain, p is an integer of 8 to 22, and n is an integer of 100 or more).

一般式２
式中、ａ及びｂは、独立して、９以上１５以下の炭素数を有し、ＸはＮａ又は水素である。 (6) The cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (5), wherein the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt includes a compound represented by Formula 2.

General formula 2
In the formula, a and b independently have 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and X is Na or hydrogen.

  (7) The cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (6), wherein the low molecular compound includes one or more selected from the group consisting of cholesterol, ceramide, and derivatives thereof.

  (8) The cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (7), further containing a higher alcohol.

  (9) The cosmetic according to (8), wherein the higher alcohol includes stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

  (10) The cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (9), further containing a mono fatty acid glycerin ether (wherein the fatty acid has 16 or more carbon atoms).

  (11) The cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (10), wherein the polycondensation polymer particles and / or the closed vesicles are interposed in an interface between the water phase and the oil phase to constitute an emulsified state.

  (12) The cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (11), which contains substantially no surfactant.

  (13) The cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (11), further containing a surfactant.

  (14) The cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (13), wherein the oil phase is made of an oil having an average interfacial tension of 25 mN / m or more with respect to water.

  (15) The cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (14), wherein the oil phase includes squalane.

  (16) Polycondensation polymer particles having a hydroxyl group and partially introduced with a hydrophobic group, and / or a fatty acid group possessed by an α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt and the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt Manufacture of cosmetics having a step of mixing an aqueous dispersion in which closed vesicles having hydrophobic low-molecular compounds incorporated between them are dispersed and an oil component, and emulsifying the aqueous phase and the oil phase with each other Method.

  (17) After the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt and the hydrophobic low molecular weight compound are dispersed in water under the conditions of pH 3.5 to 4.5, the pH is returned to 6.0 to 7.0, The method according to (16), further comprising a step of preparing the closed vesicle by adding to the aqueous dispersion.

  (18) A higher alcohol is added to the aqueous dispersion, dissolved at a temperature equal to or higher than the melting point of the higher alcohol, cooled to a temperature equal to or lower than the melting point, and then mixed with the oil component (16) or (17) The method described.

  According to the present invention, by including polycondensation polymer particles having a hydroxyl group and having a hydrophobic group partially introduced, the appearance (oil film, oil droplets) and the feeling of use (stickiness) can be improved and the emulsification performance It is possible to provide cosmetics that are excellent in quality.

It is a figure which shows the state of the alpha, omega-di-fatty acid triamino acid salt and low molecular weight compound in the cosmetics based on one Example of this invention.

  Hereinafter, although embodiment of this invention is described, this invention is not limited to these.

  The cosmetic according to the present invention comprises (A) an aqueous phase, (B) an oil phase, (C-1) a polycondensation polymer particle having a hydroxyl group and having a hydrophobic group partially introduced therein, and / or ( C-2) A closed endoplasmic reticulum having an α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt and a hydrophobic low-molecular compound incorporated between the fatty acid groups of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt. Polycondensation polymer particles and closed vesicles intervene at the interface between the water phase and the oil phase, and constitute an emulsified state via van der Waals forces, so they are good regardless of the composition and conditions of the oil phase and the water phase. A simple emulsified state. Emulsifiers that have been used in cosmetics using this mechanism include polysaccharide polymers. Compared to these polysaccharide polymers, polycondensation polymer particles that have hydroxyl groups and partially introduced hydrophobic groups , And α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salts have hydrophobic low molecular weight compounds that are trapped between the fatty acid groups, and the appearance (oil film, reduce oil droplets) and feeling of use (stickiness) It is advantageous in that it can be improved.

  The mechanism that improves the appearance (reduces oil film and oil droplets) and the feeling of use (reduces stickiness) is that the hydroxyl group, which is a hydrophilic part, faces outward, and the hydrophobic group, which is a hydrophobic part, faces inward. Since the condensation polymer particles have a strong structure, it is presumed that even if the interfacial tension of the oil phase with respect to water is large, the particle structure is maintained and the emulsification ability is hardly impaired. Moreover, the case of the closed endoplasmic reticulum is similar, and the configuration of the fatty acid group is stabilized by incorporating a hydrophobic low molecular weight compound between the fatty acid groups, and α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt It is presumed that this effect is stably achieved.

  “Hydrophobic group introduced” is not limited to a polymer obtained by subsequent introduction of a hydrophobic group into a polycondensation polymer having no hydrophobic group, but also includes a polycondensation polymer originally having a hydrophobic group. However, it is essential to have an ester bond with a hydroxyl group and a hydrophobic group.

  Hydrophobic groups are those that strengthen the structure of polycondensation polymer particles by hydrophobic bonds, and hydrophobic groups having such functions themselves are well known in the art and may be appropriately selected depending on the degree to be strengthened. . Especially, it is preferable that a hydrophobic group contains a substituted or unsubstituted long chain alkyl group at the point which is excellent in the improvement effect of an external appearance and a usability | use_condition. The long chain alkyl group may be either a straight chain or a branched chain, and if the carbon number is too small, the effect of strengthening the structure of the particles may be insufficient, so the carbon number is 8 or more, 10 or more, 12 As described above, it may be 14 or more, 16 or more, or 18 or more, and preferably has 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and examples thereof include a stearyl group. In addition, the hydrophobic group introduce | transduced into a polycondensation polymer may be 1 type, and 2 or more types may be sufficient as it.

  If the introduction amount of the hydrophobic group is too small, the structural strength of the polycondensation polymer particles tends to be insufficient, and if it is too large, the hydroxyl group is insufficient and the emulsification performance becomes insufficient due to being too familiar with the oil phase. Cheap. The specific amount of hydrophobic introduction may be appropriately selected depending on the hydrophobic group and the polycondensation polymer to be used. For example, the introduction ratio of the hydrophobic group to the hydroxyl group (non-hydrophobized hydroxyl group) in the polycondensation polymer is 0. .2 to 2.0 (specifically, 0.24 to 1.63) mass%.

  The polycondensation polymer having a hydroxyl group may be either a natural polymer or a synthetic polymer, and may be appropriately selected according to the use of the emulsifier. However, natural polymers are preferable from the viewpoint of safety and generally inexpensive, and sugar polymers described below are more preferable from the viewpoint of excellent emulsifying function.

  The sugar polymer is a polymer having a glucoside structure such as cellulose and starch. For example, those produced by microorganisms with some sugars among monosaccharides such as ribose, xylose, rhamnose, fucose, glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, gluconic acid, xanthan gum, gum arabic, guar gum, caraya gum, carrageenan , Pectin, fucoidan, quinseed gum, tranto gum, locust bean gum, galactomannan, curdlan, gellan gum, fucogel, casein, gelatin, starch, collagen and other natural polymers, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, Hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, propylene glycol alginate, cell Examples include semi-synthetic polymers such as glucose crystals, starch / sodium acrylate graft polymers, hydrophobized hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, and synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylate, and polyethylene oxide. It is done.

一般式１
式中、Ｒは、各々独立して、水素、メチル、−［Ｒ’Ｏ］_ｍＨ（式中、Ｒ’はアルキル基、ｍは１以上の整数である）、又は−Ｒ’’ＯＣ_ｐＨ_２ｐ＋１（式中、Ｒ’’は側鎖に水酸基を有するアルキル基、ｐは８以上２２以下の整数である）であり、ｎは１００以上の整数である。ｎは、過小であると安定な粒子を形成しにくいが、本発明では疎水性基が導入されて安定な粒子が形成されやすいため、従来よりも低い値もとり得る。具体値は、適宜設定されてよく、例えば５００以上、１０００以上、１５００以上、２０００以上であってよい。Ｒ’及びＲ’’は、一般式１の化合物を合成する際に用いられる基にすぎず、種々のものであってよく、例えばＲ’は炭素数１〜３程度のアルキル基であってよく、Ｒ’’はヒドロキシプロピル基であってよい。 The polycondensation polymer in which a hydrophobic group is introduced into a part of the hydroxyl group may contain a compound represented by the general formula 1.

General formula 1
In the formula, each R is independently hydrogen, methyl, — [R′O] _m H (where R ′ is an alkyl group, m is an integer of 1 or more), or —R ″ OC _p. H _{2p + 1} (wherein R ″ is an alkyl group having a hydroxyl group in the side chain, p is an integer of 8 to 22, and n is an integer of 100 or more). When n is too small, it is difficult to form stable particles. However, in the present invention, a hydrophobic group is introduced and stable particles are easily formed, and therefore can take a lower value than before. The specific value may be set as appropriate, and may be, for example, 500 or more, 1000 or more, 1500 or more, or 2000 or more. R ′ and R ″ are only groups used in synthesizing the compound of the general formula 1, and may be various groups. For example, R ′ may be an alkyl group having about 1 to 3 carbon atoms. , R ″ may be a hydroxypropyl group.

  Specifically, for example, hydrophobized hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (for example, stearoxyhydroxypropylmethylcellulose) can be mentioned, and “Sangelose” (trademark) “60L”, “90L”, “60M”, “60M”, “ Commercial products such as “90M” can also be used.

  The polycondensation polymer particles have an average particle size in the range of 8 nm to 500 nm as measured by a particle size distribution measuring device FPAR (manufactured by Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.), thereby having a homogeneous and excellent emulsifying function. Since the preparation method is conventionally known as disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 3855203, etc., it will be omitted.

  If the amount of the polycondensation polymer is too small, the above effect tends to be insufficient, and if it is too large, the elongation of the cosmetic on the skin may be deteriorated. The amount of the polycondensation polymer may be appropriately set according to the use of the cosmetic based on the above tendency, and is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.05% by mass or more with respect to the cosmetic. is there. Moreover, it is preferable that the quantity of a polycondensation polymer is 2 mass% or less with respect to cosmetics, More preferably, it is 1.0 mass% or less. Moreover, you may use a polycondensation polymer individually by 1 type or in combination of 2 or more types.

  The cosmetic of the present invention contains an α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt together with or in place of the polycondensation polymer particles described above. It is presumed that the polar part (particularly the amide bond) in the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt imparts hydrophilicity and improves water retention.

  In addition, the cosmetic of the present invention further includes a hydrophobic low molecular weight compound that is incorporated between the fatty acid groups of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt in terms of improving the sticky feeling, moist feeling, and refreshing feeling. Including. Incorporation of low molecular weight compounds means the fact that their properties are known, or if not known, prepare multiple samples with different amounts of low molecular weight compounds relative to the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt. The interlayer distance of α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt obtained from X-ray analysis is constant up to a certain ratio, and beyond that, the interlayer distance of α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt obtained from X-ray analysis exceeds This is confirmed by the result that the distance increases and a low molecular weight compound that is not incorporated into the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt is detected (see FIG. 1 described later). As shown in FIG. 1, the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt forms not a micelle but a closed vesicle composed of two layers, and this structure has the above-described effects.

一般式２
式中、ａ及びｂは、独立して、９以上１５以下の炭素数を有し、ＸはＮａ又は水素である。 The α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt may contain a compound represented by the general formula 2, for example, may contain lysine sodium diglutarate, “Perisea” (trademark) “L-30” manufactured by Asahi Kasei Chemical Co., Ltd. Or other commercially available products may be used.

General formula 2
In the formula, a and b independently have 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and X is Na or hydrogen.

  If the amount of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt is too small, the above effect may be insufficient. On the other hand, if the amount is too large, the stickiness and the elongation on the skin may be deteriorated. The amount of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt may be appropriately set according to the use of the cosmetic based on the above tendency, and is preferably 0.005% by mass or more based on the cosmetic, more preferably 0. 0.01 mass% or more, 0.05 mass% or more, 0.1 mass% or more, 0.25 mass% or more, or 1.0 mass% or more. The amount of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt is preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 2.0% by mass or less and 1.0% by mass or less with respect to the cosmetic. Further, the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt may be contained singly or in combination of two or more.

  The hydrophobic low molecular weight compound may be appropriately selected depending on the structure of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt. For example, cholesterol, ceramide, tocopherol, vitamin E, monoolein, diolein, triolein, and derivatives thereof 1 type or 2 types or more are mentioned. Among them, cholesterol, ceramide, and derivatives thereof are preferable because they are excellent in their cosmetic effects. Derivatives are those to which substituents are introduced, partial structures are added / deleted, etc. For example, ceramide may have a large structure with respect to the distance between fatty acid groups and the length of fatty acid groups. In many cases, a derivative from which a partial structure is deleted may be preferable.

  If the total amount of the low molecular weight compound and the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt is too small, the refreshing feeling, moisturizing feeling, and stickiness may not be good. If it is too large, the sticky feeling and the elongation on the skin will be poor. There is a case. Based on the above tendency, the total amount may be appropriately set according to the use of the cosmetic, and is preferably 0.0075% by mass or more, more preferably 0.015% by mass or more, 0.075% with respect to the cosmetic. It is mass% or more, 0.15 mass% or more, 0.20 mass% or more, 0.375 mass% or more, 0.525 mass% or more, 0.6 mass% or more, or 0.75 mass% or more. The total amount is preferably 5% by mass or less with respect to the cosmetic, more preferably 3.0% by mass or less, 1.5% by mass or less, 1.25% by mass or less, 1.125% by mass or less, 0 90% by mass or less.

  When the mass ratio of α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt to low molecular weight compound is too small, refreshing feeling, moist feeling, stickiness, and elongation on the skin may not be good. The improvement may be insufficient. The mass ratio of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt to the low molecular compound is preferably 1/3 or more, more preferably 1 / 2.5 or more, and 1 / 1.5 or more. The mass ratio of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt to the low molecular compound is preferably 10/1 or less, more preferably 5/1 or less, and 2/1 or less.

  When a ceramide derivative and cholesterol are used in combination as the low molecular weight compound, the mass ratio of cholesterol to the ceramide derivative is preferably 1/4 or more, more preferably 2/3 or more, 3/2 or more, 4/1 or more. It is. In addition, the amount of the ceramide derivative is preferably 0.025% by mass or more, more preferably 0.05% by mass or more with respect to the cosmetic from the viewpoint of improving the moist feeling.

  The polycondensation polymer particles used in the present invention are more excellent in terms of emulsion stability and tend to give cosmetics a high viscosity, while closed vesicles tend to give cosmetics a low viscosity and are particles in the internal phase. It is easy to improve the transparency of cosmetics by reducing the diameter. For this reason, although not particularly limited, polycondensation polymer particles are preferable for emulsions, creams, and gels, and closed vesicles tend to be preferable for cosmetics such as lotions, cosmetics, and packs. Although not particularly limited, polycondensation polymer particles are preferred when a large amount of oil having a high interfacial tension with respect to water is used.

  The cosmetic of the present invention can maintain an emulsified state or can easily form an emulsified state by shaking or the like, and has an O / W emulsion structure in the emulsified state.

  The oil phase may contain a known oil agent in conventional cosmetics. In the present invention, the oil phase can withstand a large interfacial tension of water in the oil phase, so that a wide range of oil agents can be used. Specifically, silicones such as dimethylpolysiloxane, trimethylsiloxane, methylphenylsiloxane, cyclic silicone, hydrocarbons such as squalane and paraffin, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isostearyl myristate, octyl myristate Dodecyl, glyceryl triethylhexanoate, triethylhexanoin, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, glyceryl tri (caprylate / caprate), cetyl ethylhexanoate, grape seed oil, rosehip oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, avocado oil, macadamia Nut oil, medhome oil, shea fat, jojoba oil, beeswax, hydrogenated palm oil, cholesteryl stearate, phytosterol, glyceryl trimyristate, Glyceryl ristearate, hexa (hydroxystearic acid) dipentaerythritol, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, trioctanoin, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, diisostearyl malate, lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl, lauroyl glutamate di (phytosteryl / 1 type or 2 types or more, such as ester, such as amide ester, such as octyldodecyl) and lauroyl glutamic acid di (cholesteryl / octyldodecyl).

  The oil phase may consist of an oil having an average interfacial tension of 25 mN / m or more with respect to water. The average interfacial tension is more preferably 30 mN / m or more. The average interfacial tension is measured by the hanging drop method for the oil phase component recovered from the cosmetic. Among these, squalane, which is known to give a large interfacial tension, is preferably used because it is excellent in safety. Other oil agents are well known in the art (for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2007-70304), and are therefore omitted. Although an oil phase is not specifically limited, The quantity of 5 mass%-95 mass% with respect to cosmetics may be sufficient, and it is 1.0-40 mass% specifically ,.

  The aqueous phase may contain water-soluble ingredients known in conventional cosmetics, and a wide range of water-soluble ingredients can be used in the present invention. Such a water-soluble component is well known in the art (for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2007-70304), and is therefore omitted. Although a water phase is not specifically limited, The quantity of 5 mass%-95 mass% with respect to cosmetics may be sufficient.

<Optional component>
The cosmetic according to the present invention preferably further contains a higher alcohol in terms of improving the refreshing feeling, stickiness, and richness (brightness). Higher alcohols form liquid crystals and take in oils and fats on the skin (body temperature) and harden. Therefore, it is estimated that the refreshing feeling is improved and the sticky feeling is lowered. The higher alcohol may have a linear or branched structure, and may have 16 or more carbon atoms, preferably 18 or more, 20 or more, or 22 or more. From the above mechanism, the average melting point of the higher alcohol is preferably 38 ° C. or higher, more preferably 50 ° C. or higher, specifically 54 to 73 ° C.

  As higher alcohols, fatty acids such as isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, oleic acid, palmitoleic acid, linoleic acid, ricinoleic acid, lanolin derivatives such as lanolin, lanolin alcohol, hydrogenated lanolin alcohol, cetanol, hexyldecanol, isostearyl alcohol, stearyl 1 type (s) or 2 or more types, such as alcohol, octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, are mentioned. Among these, stearyl alcohol and / or behenyl alcohol are preferable in terms of excellent effects.

  If the amount of the higher alcohol is too small, the above effect may be insufficient, and if it is too large, the elongation on the skin may not be sufficiently improved. The amount of the higher alcohol may be 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, may be 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, 3% by mass with respect to the cosmetic. % Or less.

  The combined use of stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol is preferable in terms of improvement in stickiness and richness. In this case, the mass ratio of stearyl alcohol to behenyl alcohol may be 1/10 or more, preferably 6/24 or more, 16/14 or more, 18/12 or more, and may be 20/1 or less, preferably Is 10/1 or less and 1/2 or less.

  The cosmetic of the present invention preferably further contains a mono fatty acid glycerin ether (however, the number of carbon atoms of the fatty acid is 16 or more) in terms of improving the refreshing feeling, stickiness, and richness (richness). Mono fatty acid glycerin ether is presumed to have the above effect by reducing the particle size of the oil phase and increasing the dispersibility.

  As mono-fatty acid glycerin ether, 1 type (s) or 2 or more types, such as an isostearyl glyceryl ether, a chimyl alcohol, a ceralkyl alcohol, a batyl alcohol, are mentioned. Of these, batyl alcohol is preferred in terms of improving a refreshing feeling, stickiness, and rich feeling.

  If the amount of mono-fatty acid glycerin ether is too small, the above effects may be insufficient, and if it is too large, the elongation on the skin may not be sufficiently improved. The amount of the mono fatty acid glycerin ether may be 0.05% by mass or more, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, 0.2% by mass or more, 0.3% by mass or more, and 10% by mass with respect to the cosmetic. % Or less, preferably 1.0% by mass or less, 0.75% by mass or less, and 0.5% by mass or less.

  Mono fatty acid glycerin ether may be used alone, but is preferably used in combination with a higher alcohol in terms of extending on the skin and improving flaking. When used in combination, the total amount of the higher alcohol and mono fatty acid glycerin ether may be 0.25% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, based on the cosmetics, from the viewpoint of taking a balance between the usefulness of both. It is 1.0 mass% or more, may be 10 mass% or less, Preferably it is 7.5 mass% or less, and 5.0 mass% or less.

  The mass ratio of the higher alcohol to the mono fatty acid glycerin ether is preferably 25/5 or more, more preferably 26/4 or more, may be 29/1 or less, and preferably 27/3 or less.

  In addition, the cosmetic of the present invention may contain a wide variety of conventionally known optional components such as preservatives and thickeners (for example, JP-A-2007-8901). Specifically, the cosmetic of the present invention may further contain a surfactant in that the emulsification performance can be further improved, but sufficient emulsification performance is often obtained regardless of the presence or absence of the surfactant. Therefore, the surfactant may not be substantially contained. “Substantially free” refers to a small amount that does not give a difference in emulsification performance. Specifically, it is 0.1% by mass or less, 0.08% by mass or less, 0.07% by mass with respect to cosmetics. % By mass or less, 0.06% by mass or less, 0.05% by mass or less, 0.04% by mass or less, 0.02% by mass or less, 0.02% by mass or less, 0.01% by mass or less, 0.005% by mass % Or less and 0.001 mass% or less.

  The cosmetic of the present invention may take various forms such as liquid, emulsion, cream, solid, and gel. Further, since the cosmetic of the present invention has the above-described excellent characteristics, makeup cosmetics such as foundation, white powder, lipstick, eye shadow, teak, mascara, eyeliner, sunscreen agent, foundation cream, You may apply to the various uses applied to skin or hair, such as a hair cream.

<Manufacturing method>
The method for producing a cosmetic according to the present invention comprises mixing an aqueous dispersion in which polycondensation polymer particles having a hydroxyl group and partly having a hydrophobic group introduced therein are dispersed, and an oil component. Having the steps of emulsifying the phases together. Since the mixing ratio and mixing conditions of the water phase and the oil phase are conventionally known, they are omitted.

  An aqueous dispersion in which polycondensation polymer particles having a hydroxyl group and a partly introduced hydrophobic group are dispersed is dispersed in water and heated to separate the polycondensation polymer particles in water. Then, it is preferably performed by cooling.

  When using a higher alcohol, it is preferable to add the higher alcohol to the aqueous dispersion, dissolve it at a temperature higher than the melting point of the higher alcohol, cool to a temperature lower than the melting point, and then mix the oil component. Thereby, the higher alcohol is finely dispersed in the aqueous phase, and the effect of the higher alcohol is maximized. The higher alcohol may be added after the oil component is mixed.

  When α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt is used, it is preferable to disperse the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt in water and then mix the oil component. However, after mixing the oil component, α, ω- A difatty acid triamino acid salt may be added. When using a hydrophobic low molecular weight compound, after dispersing the low molecular weight compound in water under the conditions of pH 3.5 to 4.5, the pH is returned to 6.0 to 7.0 and added to the aqueous dispersion. It is preferable to further include the step of performing. Thereby, a low molecular weight compound tends to be taken in between the fatty acid groups of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt. In addition, pH 3.5-4.5 is pKa vicinity of the carboxyl group in alpha, omega-di fatty acid triamino acid salt.

  The manufacturing method of the cosmetics which concern on this invention may have the process of processing an emulsion into cosmetics. Processing is not particularly limited, and may be performed as appropriate. Specifically, the processing step may include a step of diluting the emulsion with water. In the case of a surfactant, when water is added to the O / W emulsion, the surfactant that has been reversibly adsorbed to the oil phase is desorbed and the emulsified state becomes unstable. However, in the present invention, since the polycondensation polymer particles adhere irreversibly to the oil and emulsify, the emulsified state is stable regardless of the presence or absence of dilution. This makes it possible to produce a cosmetic product in which the emulsion is produced so that the oil has a high concentration, the emulsion is distributed, etc., and appropriately diluted when the cosmetic product is produced.

<Example 1> Emulsified particles To 59.75 parts by mass of water, 0.25 parts by mass of the components shown in Table 1 were added and stirred. 60 parts by mass of this stirring liquid is heated to 80 ° C., 40 parts by mass of squalane is added, and after stirring for 10 minutes at 10,000 rpm and 80 ° C. with a homomixer, the mixture is cooled to obtain an O / W emulsion type emulsion. Prepared. This emulsion was observed with a microscope, and the range of the particle diameter of the oil droplet was roughly determined. Table 1 also shows the results of visually observing the appearance of the emulsion (oil film and visible oil droplets) and the panelist's evaluation of stickiness when applied to the skin. In the evaluation of the oil film and the oil droplets, the oil film and the oil droplets are not observed in the order of x to. Also, in the evaluation of the stickiness, the stickiness is in the order of x to ◎, and the stickiness is not so.

  As shown in Table 1, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose having a hydrophobic group (stearyl group) introduced therein was remarkably excellent in terms of appearance and stickiness. Therefore, an emulsion was prepared in the same manner as above except that the amount of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose into which a hydrophobic group (stearyl group) was introduced was changed as shown in Tables 2-5. In addition, the feeling of moisture and the elongation on the skin were also evaluated. In addition, in the evaluation of a moist feeling, it is excellent from the thing which does not have a moist feeling in order of x- (double-circle). In the evaluation of the elongation on the skin, it extends from the one not extending in the order of x to 〜. In the evaluation of the viscosity, the viscosity is low to high in the order of x to ◎.

ＤＷ： 精製水

DW: Purified water

<Example 2> α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt Emulsification in the same procedure as in Example 1 except that “Perisea L-30” (trademark) which is an α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt is used in combination. A product was prepared. The results are shown in Table 6.

  As shown in Table 6, dilauroyl glutamate lysine sodium, which is an α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt, was remarkably superior in terms of stickiness, moisturization and refreshment. Accordingly, an emulsion was prepared in the same manner as above except that the blending amount of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt was changed as shown in Table 7.

  Further, cholesterol and “Sofcare Ceramide SL-E” (manufactured by Kao Corporation; hereinafter referred to as “pseudo ceramide”) are used in combination with α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt in the ratios and amounts shown in Tables 8-12. Except for the above, an emulsion was prepared in the same procedure as above. In addition, all pH was 6.0.

ＤＰＧ： ジプロピレングリコール

DPG: Dipropylene glycol

  Further, X-ray analysis was performed on the cosmetics obtained in some examples in Table 9, and the size of the detected substance was calculated based on the 2θ value obtained as a result. The result is shown in FIG. In FIG. 1, the horizontal axis represents the ratio (molar fraction) of cholesterol to the total amount of α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt and cholesterol, and the vertical axis represents the size of the detection substance. As shown in FIG. 1, when the mole fraction of cholesterol is in the range of 0.4 or less, cholesterol (α, ω-difatty acid trioxide is contained in the space surrounded by side chains of α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt. While a distance (equivalent to twice the length of the side chain of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt) is placed, which is less than twice the length of the side chain of the amino acid salt) is observed, In the range of 0.4 or more, the distance (α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt) that is estimated that two cholesterols are arranged in the space surrounded by the side chains of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt. And a distance presumed to be a cholesterol single molecule was observed. From this, it was found that cholesterol was incorporated between the side chains of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt.

<Example 3> Higher alcohol, mono fatty acid glycerin ether An emulsion was prepared in the same procedure as in Example 1 except that the higher alcohol shown in Table 13 was used in combination. The results are shown in Table 13.

  As shown in Table 13, it was found that the use of higher alcohols, particularly higher alcohols having 18 or more carbon atoms, improved the refreshing feeling, stickiness, and richness. Moreover, it turned out that a refreshing feeling, stickiness, and a rich feeling improve notably by using mono-fatty acid glycerol ether together. However, both have some problems in terms of skin stretch and flaking. Therefore, an emulsion was prepared in the same manner as above except that the blending amounts of α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt and mono fatty acid glycerin ether were changed as shown in Tables 14-18.

<Example 4>
An emulsion was prepared in the same procedure as in Example 1 except that each component was as shown in Table 22 and later. Silicone KF-56 is methyl phenyl siloxane, NJcol 200A is octyldodecanol, Erdu PS-203 is dilauroyl glutamate (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl), TIO is triethylhexanoin, Silicone SH-200 is dimethylpolysiloxane, Erdu SL- 205 is lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl

  As shown in Tables 22-25, cosmetics containing closed vesicles instead of polycondensation polymer particles also showed excellent properties. Among these, cosmetics with a small amount of polycondensation polymer tend to have a smaller inner phase particle size and higher transparency. Cosmetics with high creaking are useful for cosmetics for men, and cosmetics with low body and easy to sag are useful for skin lotions, and cosmetics with high body and low sag are cosmetic liquids. Useful for.

Claims (20)

(A) water phase,
(B) having an oil phase, and (C-2) an α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt and a hydrophobic low molecular weight compound incorporated between the fatty acid groups of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt. a closed endoplasmic reticulum seen including,
Cosmetics further containing batyl alcohol . (A) water phase,
(B) an oil phase, (C-1) a polycondensation polymer particle having a hydroxyl group and having a hydrophobic group partially introduced therein, and (C-2) an α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt and the α , A cosmetic comprising a closed endoplasmic reticulum having a hydrophobic low-molecular compound incorporated between fatty acid groups of a ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt. The cosmetic according to claim 2 , wherein the hydrophobic group includes an unsubstituted long-chain alkyl group.   The cosmetic according to claim 3, wherein the long-chain alkyl group is an alkyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 2 to 4 , wherein the polycondensation polymer includes a sugar polymer. The cosmetic according to claim 5, wherein the polycondensation polymer in which a hydrophobic group is introduced into a part of the hydroxyl group includes a compound represented by the general formula 1.

General formula 1
In the formula, each R is independently hydrogen, methyl, — [R′O] _m H (where R ′ is an alkyl group, m is an integer of 1 or more), or —R ″ OC _p. H _{2p + 1} (wherein R ″ is an alkyl group having a hydroxyl group in the side chain, p is an integer of 8 to 22, and n is an integer of 100 or more). The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt contains a compound represented by Formula 2.

General formula 2
In the formula, a and b independently have 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and X is Na or hydrogen. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the low-molecular compound includes one or more selected from the group consisting of cholesterol and ceramide. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 2 to 6 , further comprising a higher alcohol.   The cosmetic according to claim 9, wherein the higher alcohol includes stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. Isostearyl glyceryl ether, chimyl alcohol, any of selachyl alcohol or batyl alcohol containing a second aspect 6, or claim 9 or 10 cosmetic according.   The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the closed vesicle is interposed at an interface between the water phase and the oil phase to constitute an emulsified state. The said polycondensation polymer particle and the said closed endoplasmic reticulum are interposed in the interface of the said water phase and the said oil phase, and comprise either an emulsion state in any one of Claim 2 to 6, or Claim 9 to 11. Cosmetics. The cosmetic of the surfactant from the free no claims 1 to 13, wherein any one.   The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 13, further comprising a surfactant.   The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the oil phase is made of an oil having an average interfacial tension of 25 mN / m or more with respect to water.   The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the oil phase contains squalane. Polycondensation polymer particles having a hydroxyl group and a part of which is introduced with a hydrophobic group, and α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt and the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt are intercalated between the fatty acid groups. A method for producing a cosmetic comprising a step of mixing an aqueous dispersion in which closed endoplasmic reticulum having a hydrophobic low molecular weight compound dispersed therein and an oil component, and emulsifying the aqueous phase and the oil phase with each other. Polycondensation polymer particles having a hydroxyl group and partially having a hydrophobic group introduced, and / or between the fatty acid groups of the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt and the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt and aqueous dispersion closed vesicles are dispersed with incorporated hydrophobic low molecular weight compound, an oil component, were mixed, the water and oil phases have a process to emulsify each other,
After the α, ω-difatty acid triamino acid salt and the hydrophobic low molecular weight compound are dispersed in water under the conditions of pH 3.5 to 4.5, the pH is returned to 6.0 to 7.0, and the water dispersion by adding to the liquid, said closure cosmetic method for producing further have a step of preparing the vesicles. 20. The method according to claim 18 or 19, wherein a higher alcohol is added to the aqueous dispersion, dissolved at a temperature equal to or higher than the melting point of the higher alcohol, cooled to a temperature equal to or lower than the melting point, and then the oil component is mixed.

Images