JP5740327B2 - Handkerchief with excellent anti-wrinkle properties - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a handkerchief having a soft hand feeling, a texture and a good quality and excellent in wrinkle resistance and pleatability.

  The performance required for handkerchief products includes water absorption and soft texture in practical use, and as a material, there are many cellulose-based short fibers that are easy to touch, mainly made of cotton and linen with excellent hydrophilicity. Generally used. This is because it is applied directly to the skin to wipe off moisture such as wet hands, face, and neck when washing hands and sweating. On the other hand, due to the large number of usage opportunities when going out and the diversification of preferences in recent years, design properties such as design, form retention and wrinkle resistance are also important factors. In order to meet these demands, handkerchief products that are designed in a variety of ways, such as weaving structures, dyed and printed patterns, are manufactured and sold in addition to the water absorbency that is originally required.

  In this way, handkerchief products are made of 100% cotton or have a high cotton mixing ratio in order to satisfy water absorption and soft texture in practical use, even for textile structures and dyed / printed patterns that take into consideration design and design. Although many mixed materials are applied, cellulose-based short fibers such as cotton tend to be wrinkled and have a demerit peculiar to cotton such that the shape stability is poor.

  In order to solve such a problem, Patent Document 1 and Patent Document 2 disclose a resin processing for morphological stability maintenance or a method of cross-linking cellulose fibers after weaving a fabric with cotton yarn. Although it has been proposed, it has various problems such as a hard texture due to the influence of the resin component used for processing, poor coloring, and poor water absorption performance. In addition, due to the deterioration of the cotton fibers on the fabric surface and the decrease in strength due to these processes, the cotton fibers in the pleated part easily fall off while washing, and skin damage caused by formaldehyde released from the resin component may occur. .

  According to Patent Document 3, a fabric excellent in form stability using a high-mix rate composite yarn of cellulosic fibers has been proposed. However, in order to ensure the form stability of the fabric, crosslinking of cellulose molecules by resin processing or formalin is proposed. It is premised on the bonding, and the decrease in the strength of the dough generated at this time is determined by the filament strength of 5.0 g (gram) / d (denier), that is, 4.4 cN (centinewton) / dtex (decitex). ) By trying the above, it is intended to maintain the fabric strength. According to the description of this document, a filament having a fine filament fineness of 2.7d is used, and the shape is stable when applied to a fabric with a thin and coarse structure such as a handkerchief. Of course, the improvement of wrinkle resistance and pleatability such as handkerchief, which is the main subject of the present invention, is not considered at all. Further, as described above, the cotton fibers were easily dropped due to resin processing and cross-linking of cellulose molecules with formalin.

Further, according to Patent Document 4, a composite yarn using a filament (long fiber) having a high rigidity coefficient at the core and having less fluff, tension, waist, and elasticity is proposed. Thus, the improvement of wrinkle resistance and pleatability such as handkerchief, which is the main subject of the present invention, is not considered at all.
The above prior art does not disclose any idea of a technique for providing a handkerchief imparted with fender resistance and form stability without deteriorating the texture and design.

Japanese Patent No. 3565299 Japanese Patent No. 3783801 JP 7-316945 A Japanese Patent No. 3431088

  The object of the present invention is to solve the problems that have not been achieved by the above-mentioned conventional technology, and to have a soft hand and a water absorption performance of cellulose-based short fibers such as cotton and a handkerchief that has particularly excellent wrinkle resistance and pleatability Is to provide.

  In view of the above-mentioned background art, the present inventors have made a structure of a long and short composite spun yarn used as a handkerchief material (long fiber, short fiber composite distribution ratio, filament single yarn fineness, spun yarn composite form). As a result of intensive studies on the effects of short fiber coverage, etc. on the quality, design, texture, crease resistance, pleatability and form stability of the handkerchief that will be the final product, It has been found that wrinkle resistance, pleatability and form stability are excellent by increasing the single yarn fineness over a certain level, selecting and specifying the composite distribution ratio of short fibers, and specifying and combining the short fiber coverage. The present invention has been completed.

  Means for solving the above problems, that is, the constitution of the present invention is a handkerchief formed from a fabric having a core-sheath structure long / short composite yarn, and the sheath portion of the core / sheath structure long / short composite yarn is a core / sheath structure long / short composite yarn The fiber constituting the core of the core-sheath structure long / short composite yarn is composed of long fibers having a single yarn fineness of 5 to 33 dtex, and the short fiber coverage on the surface of the fabric Is a handkerchief having excellent wrinkle resistance, characterized by having 90% or more and wrinkle resistance of 3.3 or higher.

  It is preferable that 60 mass% or more of the cellulose short fiber which comprises a sheath part is a cotton fiber.

  The core-sheath structure long / short composite yarn is such that a fiber bundle A having a core / sheath structure in which a long fiber is arranged in the core and a cellulose short fiber is arranged in the sheath and a fiber bundle B composed of only the cellulose short fibers are sticking to each other. It is preferably made of a composite yarn that is actually twisted with a twisting coefficient of 2.2 to 7.2.

  The cellulose-based short fiber coverage on the fabric surface is preferably 95% by mass or more.

  According to the above configuration, the present invention can provide a handkerchief excellent in wrinkle resistance and pleatability while having a soft feel and surface feeling of cellulose short fibers.

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an example of a general production apparatus for composite yarn according to the present invention. FIG. 2 is a side sectional perspective view showing an example of the composite yarn according to the present invention. FIG. 3 is a photograph in which the fabric of the present invention is dyed with a piece of cellulose and its surface is enlarged 100 times with a video printer and printed. The length is reduced by about 10% from the actual length.

  The handkerchief of the present invention is (1) a handkerchief formed from a fabric comprising a core-sheath structure long / short composite yarn, and the sheath part of the core-sheath structure long / short composite yarn is (2) 60% by mass or more of the cellulose-based short fiber. The fibers constituting the core of the composite yarn are composed of long fibers having a single yarn fineness of (3) 5 to 33 dtex, (4) the short fiber coverage on the surface of the fabric is 90% or more, and (5) (6) A handkerchief having excellent anti-wrinkle property with an anti-wrinkle property of 3.3 or higher.

(1) Form of core / sheath structure long / short composite yarn The core / sheath structure long / short composite yarn referred to in the present invention is a so-called core / sheath structure long / short composite spun yarn in which a long fiber filament bundle is arranged at the center of a short fiber bundle. Of course, without being limited to this form, for example, the short fiber bundle is wound around the outside of the so-called core-sheath structure long / short composite spun yarn in which the long fiber filament bundle is arranged in the center of the short fiber bundle. A core-sheath structure long / short composite yarn may be used.

(2) About making cellulose short fiber 60 mass% or more In this invention, it is necessary to make the cellulose short fiber used for the sheath part of a core-sheath structure long / short composite yarn 60 mass% or more. . Here, when the cellulosic short fibers are less than 60% by mass, the long fibers constituting the core portion are likely to appear on the surface of the fabric, so that the texture becomes hard and the fabric is easily irritated. This is not preferable because spinning cannot be performed well in the production stage. Accordingly, the content is preferably 70% by mass or more, and more preferably 75% by mass or more. On the other hand, the upper limit of the amount of cellulose-based short fibers is not particularly limited, but when the amount of cellulose-based short fibers exceeds 92% by mass, the number of long fibers used is reduced, and the wrinkle resistance is affected. Therefore, the content is preferably 92% by mass or less, particularly 90% by mass or less.

  Cellulosic short fibers constituting the sheath of the core-sheath composite yarn of the present invention use natural fibers such as cotton and hemp, recycled fibers such as rayon, polynosic and cupra, and semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate and triacetate. May be. In the present invention, it is preferable to use cotton for the sheath portion because even if other fibers are used for the core portion, almost the same feel as a conventional 100% cotton handkerchief can be obtained. These natural fibers, recycled fibers, and semi-synthetic fibers may be mixed and used. Among the above, as the fiber cross section of the natural fiber, it is used in a natural shape originally possessed by the natural fiber such as a lumen of the cotton cross section, while in the regenerated fiber and the semi-synthetic fiber, in addition to the round cross section, a triangular cross section and a hollow, Any cross section such as a multileaf cross section may be used.

  The fineness of the single fiber of the cellulose short fiber constituting the sheath may be fine denier of 1.1 dtex or less, thick denier of 2.2 dtex or more, or a thickness of these intermediate zones. However, 0.3 to 3.3 dtex is preferable, and 0.5 to 2.2 dtex is more preferable from the viewpoint of touch, durability, and versatility. Here, when the fineness of the single fiber is less than 0.3 dtex, it is rare to use a natural fiber having such a fineness because it has not been confirmed. Recycled fibers and semi-synthetic fibers have a short fiber fineness of less than 0.3 dtex, and the technical difficulty of spinning is high, resulting in increased costs due to single fiber breakage and production loss. Problems such as pilling occur easily. On the other hand, if the single fiber fineness exceeds 3.3 dtex, the fiber stiffness tends to be high, and there is a risk of discomfort during use such as “tickling” and “gasiness”. It tends to decrease.

  The average fiber length of the cellulose short fibers is not particularly limited, but is preferably 20 to 76 mm and more preferably 22 to 55 mm in consideration of productivity and versatility. Here, if the average fiber length is less than 20 mm, the spinnability is inferior, and the yarn quality and yarn breakage tend to occur. On the other hand, if the average fiber length exceeds 76 mm, the short fiber fluff is reduced, the soft texture is liable to be impaired, the production using general general-purpose production equipment is difficult, and the cost is likely to increase.

  The official moisture content at 20 ° C. and relative humidity of 65% of the cellulose short fibers is preferably 2.5 to 18.0%, more preferably 3.5 to 16.0%. Here, when the official moisture content is less than 2.5%, the water absorption performance of the fabric is lowered, and the water wiping property during hand washing or sweating is not sufficiently exhibited. On the other hand, if the official moisture content exceeds 18%, the dryness of the fabric after water absorption is deteriorated, and there is a possibility that water leaks easily from the handkerchief fabric, for example, when stored in the pocket of the worn pants.

(3) About making the single yarn fineness of a long fiber filament into 5-33 dtex In this invention, let the single yarn fineness of the long fiber filament used for the core part of a core-sheath structure long-short composite yarn be 5-33 dtex. is necessary. When the single fiber fineness of the long fibers is less than 5 dtex, the bending rigidity of the long fibers is lowered, and it becomes difficult to improve the wrinkle resistance and pleat retention of the present invention. Further, when the single yarn fineness of the long fiber exceeds 33 dtex, the spinning difficulty is improved, and the yarn breakage occurs in the manufacturing stage of the high cost and long / short composite yarn, leading to the deterioration of the quality. In addition, when a cloth is processed, cut and cut into a handkerchief product, there is a problem that it is easy to scratch if the cut surface is in direct contact with the skin and rubbed. Accordingly, it is preferably 6 to 24 dtex. Here, the long fiber may be a single monofilament or a plurality of multifilaments. The long fiber may be any synthetic fiber such as polyester, polyamide, polyacryl fiber, semi-synthetic fiber such as promix, filaments such as recycled fiber and inorganic fiber, and is not particularly limited. Absent. In particular, it is preferable to use polyester in consideration of versatility, deterioration with time of materials such as light yellowing resistance, and handling in the manufacturing process.

  The total fineness of such long fibers is preferably 10 to 84 dtex, more preferably 17 to 56 dtex. Here, when the total fineness of the long fibers exceeds 84 dtex, it becomes difficult to form a coverage of 90% or more on the fabric surface of the present invention due to a decrease in the short fiber coverage. When the total fineness of the long fibers is less than 10 dtex, the short fiber coverage is improved, but the wrinkle resistance is lowered.

  The tensile strength cN (centinewton) / dtex (decitex) of these long fibers is preferably 1.7 to 7.5 (cN / dtex) in a standard state, and preferably 2.5 to 6.5 (cN / dtex). ) Is more preferable. More preferably, it is 3.0 to 6.0 (cN / dtex). Here, when the tensile strength of the long fiber is less than 1.7 (cN / dtex), the yarn breakage is likely to occur when the composite yarn is formed, and the handling problem is likely to occur. There is a fear that the anti-wrinkle property may not be sufficiently exhibited. On the other hand, when the tensile strength exceeds 7.5 (cN / dtex), it becomes a high-strength fiber higher than general-purpose general-purpose fibers, and the cost and the type of yarn count are limited. Since rigidity causes problems such as yarn breakage at the stage of combining with cellulose-based short fibers, it is not preferable.

(4) About short fiber coverage of 90% or more In the present invention, the short fiber coverage of the specified cloth needs to be 90% or more. The coverage of cellulosic short fibers on the fabric surface is desirably 93% or more, and more desirably 95% or more. Here, if the coverage of the cellulose-based short fibers is less than 90%, the texture tends to be hard, and irritation and dyeing unevenness are likely to occur.

  In addition, the short fiber coverage is divided in two-dimensional view into the surface occupancy portion of the cellulose short fibers and the surface occupancy portion of the long fibers on the fabric surface, and how much the cellulosic short fiber occupies with respect to the observation area. Is expressed as a percentage.

Specifically, the short fiber coverage defined in the present invention is determined as follows. After the fabric is dyed with a piece of cellulose, the surface of the fabric is magnified, for example, 100 times with a Sony video printer, printed on printing paper (for example, width 270 mm × length 200 mm), and then dyed. The cellulosic short fiber portion (A) and the undyed long fiber portion (B) are cut with scissors or a cutter, and the mass (g) of each printing paper is measured. Using the mass (g) of the cut print paper, the formula (A / (A + B)) × 100 = short fiber coverage (%) was obtained. The number of data samples was obtained from the average of 10 images taken from different parts of the imaged part. If the long fibers in the core are dyed in the same manner as the cellulose fibers in the sheath, the coverage can be confirmed by producing the composite yarn after dyeing only the short cellulose fibers first. FIG. 3 shows a photograph in which the surface of the handkerchief fabric obtained in the example is enlarged 100 times and printed.
As a result of evaluating the hand feeling in comparison with the handkerchief, it was found that the higher the short fiber coverage, the softer the hand and the better the quality.

(5) About making wrinkle resistance 3.3 or higher The wrinkle resistance specified in the present invention needs to be 3.3 or higher. Wrinkle resistance is determined according to JIS-L-1096-1999.8.23. As a standard for determination, a six-dimensional stereo replica defined in AATCC / Test / Method / 124 (Appearance of Fabrics / After / Repeated Home Landing) was used. The grade is grade 1 (lowest wrinkle resistance) to grade 5 (highest wrinkle resistance). The washing treatment was evaluated after washing was performed three times as described below with reference to the JIS-L0217 · 103 method. (1) Cut out the dough into 40 cm × 40 cm with scissors and prepare 9 sheets. (Adjust the number of doughs so that the dough mass is approximately 1 kg.) After pouring 30 liters (40 ° C.) of water into the fully automatic washing machine, 9 samples are put in. In this fully automatic washing machine, a detergent attack (registered trademark: general sale product; Kao) is used for washing, and after 5 minutes, water is rinsed twice, and dewatering 1 minute is repeated four times in succession. (2) Then, after drying for 30 minutes at 65 ± 5 ° C. with a tumble dryer, the heating is stopped and the dough is further rotated for 5 minutes to cool the dough. (3) Take out the sample from the tumble dryer, check three samples by three measurers, measure the wrinkle resistance, and calculate the average value. Thus, the prevention wrinkle property to be defined needs to be 3.3 or higher.
Here, if the prevention wrinkle property is lower than 3.3 grade, the generation of wrinkles on the handkerchief becomes conspicuous, and the desired handkerchief quality cannot be ensured.

(6) About handkerchief The handkerchief referred to in the present invention is usually a cloth product that is mainly used daily as a clothing, and is used for wiping washed hands, wiping sweat, and the like. Usually, it is a square cloth with four sides, and it is an abbreviation for a handkerchief. The spread of handkerchiefs in Japan is after the Meiji period when Western clothing was introduced. As the material of the handkerchief, a textile material excellent in water absorption, such as cotton, silk and hemp (linen), is mainly used. Some materials have antibacterial finishes reflecting the recent cleanliness.

  The fabric forming the handkerchief of the present invention is not particularly limited, such as a woven fabric or a knitted fabric, but it is preferable to use a woven fabric in relation to the intended use.

  When the fabric is a woven fabric, the woven pattern is not particularly limited, and basic plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, dobby texture, double weave, triple weave, etc. are recommended.

  The composite yarn constituting the fabric may be used for both warp and weft of the woven fabric, for example. One or two warp yarns or weft yarns or normal spun yarn (single yarn) are alternately arranged, or a check arrangement in which several warp yarns are arranged in stripes or several warp yarns are arranged. You can also. Composite yarns and other raw yarns may be combined with composite yarns and spun yarns with different counts. In order to express an uneven pattern, a composite yarn in which thick and thin portions are provided in the longitudinal direction of the composite yarn and portions having different random numbers of twists in the longitudinal direction may be used.

  Further, a towel-like handkerchief in which a loop structure is arranged in the pile portion separately from the ground portion may be used. The ratio of the composite yarn constituting the fabric is preferably 30 to 100% by mass, and more preferably 40 to 100% by mass. More preferably, it is 45-100 mass%. When the ratio of the composite yarn constituting the fabric is less than 30% by mass, the content ratio of the long fibers constituting the core portion is lowered, and the wrinkle resistance tends to be lowered. The handkerchief resistance of the handkerchief is preferably 3.3 or higher, more preferably 3.5 or higher. More preferably, it is 3.6 grade or more. If the wrinkle resistance (W & W property) is less than 3.3 grade, the feeling of luxury after washing is lost, and the appearance quality is deteriorated, and the pleating property is lowered, and ironing is likely to be required.

  The cellulose short fibers constituting the sheath portion of the core-sheath structure long / short composite yarn of the present invention are particularly preferably composed of 60% by mass or more of cotton fibers. Here, when the cellulosic short fiber is less than 60% by mass, the water absorption inherent in the handkerchief is lowered and the soft texture tends to be lowered. The cellulose short fiber is particularly preferably cotton.

  Next, a typical example of a method for producing a core-sheath structure long / short composite yarn used as a material of a fabric constituting the handkerchief of the present invention will be described.

Although the manufacturing method is not limited to the following method, examples of the two methods will be described with reference to FIG.
One of them is the filament yarn F at the center of the cellulose short fiber bundle between the front roller 2 after passing through the back roller 1 and the second roller 3 to the cellulosic short fiber bundle supplied from the roving a. The filament F is fed so that the yarns come, and after passing through the front roller, the twisted bobbin 8 is wound to produce a composite spun yarn with a short length.
Another method is to supply the filament F so that the filament yarn F comes to the center of the short cellulosic fiber bundle drafted from the coarse yarn a to form the fiber bundle A, and then supply from the fiber bundle A and the coarse yarn b. There is a method in which a drafted fiber bundle B is wound around a bobbin 8 so as to be wound around each other after passing through the front roller 2 and a composite spun yarn is produced.

  Although the total count of the core-sheath structure long / short composite yarn is not particularly defined, the cotton count is preferably 10 to 120's (count), more preferably 16 to 110's. More preferably, it is 20-100's. If the total yarn count of the composite yarn is thicker than 10's, the fabric weight will be heavy and the volume will increase, making it difficult to store the handkerchief in the pocket of the pants, etc. It is easy for so-called whitishness to occur, in which the color does not easily permeate into the surface and the color is not blurred. On the other hand, when it becomes thinner than 120's, productivity and quality deterioration are likely to occur due to increased yarn breakage in the spinning process. Among the total counts described above, in 30 to 60's, the cellulosic short fibers are preferably 70 to 92% by mass, and more preferably 75 to 90% by mass. Furthermore, when the total count is 60 to 120's, the cellulose short fibers are preferably 60 to 85% by mass, and more preferably 65 to 80% by mass.

  The twisting coefficient of the composite yarn is not particularly limited, but usually the twisting coefficient is preferably in the range of 2.2 to 7.2 in an inch system, and more preferably in the range of 2.5 to 6.5. In particular, 2.8 to 6.2 is preferable. Here, when the twisting coefficient is less than 2.2, it is difficult to spin the composite yarn due to a decrease in strength of the composite yarn or a defect of unplugged yarn. On the other hand, when the twisting coefficient exceeds 7.2, the composite yarn is likely to have a reduced strength and a tendency to bend, making handling difficult.

In addition, the twist coefficient was calculated | required by the following.
The number of twists was measured by the JIS L1095 9.15A method, and the twist coefficient (K) was determined by applying to the following formula.
Twisting coefficient (K) = number of twists per inch (T) / √ count ('s)

  The composite yarn may be a double yarn or a triple yarn combined. The upper twist may be an additional twist in the same direction as the single yarn twist, or an untwisted twist in the opposite direction. In addition, using a twisting machine, the composite yarn and other cellulose short fibers may be intertwisted. The number of twists when the composite yarn is combined is not specified, but it is preferable that both the twist twist and the untwist twist are 1.5 to 6.5, and 1.8 to 6.0. Is more preferable. Here, when the twisting coefficient is less than 1.5, it cannot be said that the yarns are sufficiently in close contact with each other. For example, when a fluctuation in tension occurs during sizing or weaving, A case where a loop occurs due to yarn misalignment and the quality is not good is assumed. On the other hand, when the twist coefficient exceeds 6.5, when the upper twist is applied, the single fiber is cut due to an increase in torsional force, which tends to cause a decrease in yarn quality, a decrease in production amount, and an increase in cost.

  The fabric using the long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention can obtain high levelness level without irritation even if the cellulose fiber is dyed by using, for example, reactive dye, vat dye or direct dye. Found that the fabric using the long and short composite yarns of the present invention is printed beautifully on the back side, and the same color property between the front and back sides can be easily obtained when penetrating to the back side like a handkerchief. The reason for this is not clear, but because the long fiber group is solidified near the center of the yarn, it is difficult to prevent the dye from penetrating from the front surface to the back surface, and the long fiber is solidified. I think that this is because the dye solution accelerates the movement and diffusion between fibers. In the present invention, for example, in a print portion dyed in black (L * value 18), an L * value difference (ΔL) between the front and back sides of 2.0 or less is determined to be excellent in front and back color matching. It is judged that the same color of the front and back sides is very excellent. The L * value was standardized by the International Commission on Illumination (CIE) in 1976 and adopted in JIS Z 8729 in Japan. (L * a * b *) is called (CIE) 1976 (L * a * b *) color system, and in this color system, the lightness is represented by L *.

  The present invention will be described below based on examples. The evaluation methods used in the examples are as follows.

(Total fineness of long fibers)
JIS L1013 8.3.1. Measured by method A (positive fineness).

(Single yarn fineness of long fibers)
The number of filaments is obtained according to JIS L1013 8.4, and is calculated by the single yarn fineness = (total fineness / filament number).

(English count)
The apparent cotton count (English count) is measured by the method of JIS L1095 9.4.2.

(Mixed ratio)
Measured in accordance with JIS L1030-2 5.9.2 (positive mix ratio).

(density)
Measured in accordance with JIS L096 8.6.1 (textile density).

(Texture evaluation)
The texture evaluation was a comprehensive evaluation of touch, softness and quality. According to 7 judges, it was rated and evaluated in 4 ranks: ◎ very good, ○ good, △ normal, × bad.
The texture quality after washing 30 was evaluated and evaluated in consideration of the dropping state of the cellulose short fibers on the fabric surface. Laundry was repeated 30 times in the same manner as in the wrinkle-proof washing methods (1) and (2).

(Evaluation of same color on both sides)
The black background part of the surface of the printed fabric was measured, and the back side of the same place as the surface colorimetric part was measured to evaluate the brightness difference between the front and back sides. In the color measurement, four sheets of cloth were stacked, and the same place was measured three times under the following conditions to calculate an average value. The smaller the difference (ΔL) between the front and back L * values at the same location, the better the front / back leveling.
Colorimeter: CM-3700d manufactured by Minolta, measurement diameter: 8 mmφ, light source: D65, field of view: 2 °

(Pleated)
Three pieces of dough having a size of 40 × 40 cm were collected, and using a JUKI clothing press JAK-711, the dough sample was folded half way through to produce a pleat at the center of the dough. The pleating conditions were steam 1 kgf / cm ² × 5 seconds → press (temperature 160 ° C., pressure 2 kgf / cm ² , pressurization for 5 seconds) → vacuum 5 seconds. Laundry was performed three times in the same manner as the above-described wrinkle-proof washing method, and tumble dried. The sample was evaluated according to the JIS-L1060-2006C method (appearance determination method). The determination standard used was a five-step determination standard three-dimensional replica specified in AATCC TEST METHOD 88C. Three testers confirmed three samples each, measured the pleat properties, and calculated the average value. The grades are grade 1 (lowest pleatability) to grade 5 (highest pleatability). The washing method was the same operation as the above-mentioned wrinkle resistance.

Example 1
US cotton (Supima fiber length: 35 mm, single fiber fineness 1.5 dtex) was used as the cellulose short fiber, and a 95 gelen roving was produced by a general blended cotton-card-comb-knitting-roving process. On the other hand, polyethylene terephthalate as a main fiber was used as a main raw material, and a multifilament (semi-dull: tensile strength 4.3 cN / dtex) having a fineness of 33 dtex / 5f was produced by spinning and drawing with a general polymerization equipment.

  Next, after roving these two US cotton rovings (a and b in FIG. 1) with a Toyota ring spinning machine, a long fiber bundle F (33 dtex / 5f) is secondly fed from the upper center of one fiber bundle a. It was supplied from between the roller 3 and the front roller 2 and twisted when it came out of the other roving fiber bundle b and the front roller to produce a composite yarn 8 (50's). When the blend ratio of the finished composite yarn was measured, it was 28% polyester and 72% cotton. A side sectional view of the obtained composite yarn is shown in FIG.

  After warping and gluing the composite yarn (50's), a raw machine was woven using a Toyota JA type T-600 air jet loom (AJL) as a warp. This fabric standard has a warp density of 90 / inch, a weft density of 88 / inch, and a weaving width of 48.0 inches. This raw machine was subjected to hair roasting, desizing, scouring, and bleaching according to the following essential points in accordance with general clothing (shirts). The both sides of the fabric were baked using a gas burner baked machine. Then, it was immersed for 30 seconds in a paste removal scouring treatment solution containing sodium hydroxide 40 g / L, sodium persulfate 8 g / L, sodium dodecyl diphenyl ether disulfonate 2 g / L and diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid pentasodium 0.2 g / L. The film was squeezed at a rate of 100%, wet-heat treated with steam at 98 ° C. for 30 minutes, washed with water at 25 ° C. for 30 seconds, and then squeezed at a squeeze rate of 100% to carry out paste-free scouring.

  Subsequently, the fabric material subjected to the desizing and scouring treatment is bleached containing 4 g / L of sodium hydroxide, 40 g / L of 35% by mass hydrogen peroxide and 2 g / L of sodium poly-α-hydroxyacrylate (molecular weight 100,000). Immerse in processing solution for 30 seconds, squeeze at 100% squeezing rate, perform wet heat treatment with steam at 98 ° C. for 30 minutes, wash with water at 25 ° C. for 30 seconds, squeeze at 100% squeezing rate and perform bleaching treatment, A natural fiber product was obtained by drying at 110 ° C. for 1 minute. Thereafter, the ground polka dots were printed in black according to the following prescription and finished.

  First, the printed pattern was a pattern with one 1 cm diameter polka dot not printed in a 10 cm square. Then, a color paste composed of 15% by weight of reactive dye (CI Reactive Black 5) and 63% by weight of the original paste is printed on the surface of the cotton fabric and subjected to a heat treatment at 103 ° C. for 7 minutes to penetrate into a handkerchief. Printing was done. As a result, a printed pattern in which the ground portion was dyed beautifully black was dyed. Washing and drying were performed by conventional methods. Finally, a finishing process with water absorption was performed to produce a finished fabric of the present invention. When the print quality of this fabric was evaluated, there was no irritation in the black background, and it was dyed deep black. As a result of measuring the front and back of the same ground portion, the L value of the front portion was 18.25 and the L value of the back portion was 18.86. (ΔL value 0.61) The results of evaluating this fabric are shown in Table 1. In addition, the coverage evaluation evaluated the ground part.

(Example 2)
Fabrics dyed and processed in the same manner as in Example 1 were evaluated except that the composite yarn 50's obtained in Example 1 and 50's cotton yarn using 100% rice cotton were woven by pick and pick respectively. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Example 3)
Dyeing as in Example 1 except that the composite yarn 50's obtained in Example 1 and 50's cotton yarn using 100% rice cotton were woven with 2/2 twill of woven fabric by pick and pick respectively. A processed fabric was prepared and evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

Example 4
After roving one US cotton roving using a Toyota ring spinning machine, a long fiber bundle 33dtex / 5f is supplied from the middle upper part of the fiber bundle between the middle roller and the front roller and twisted to core yarn composite yarn 50 ' s was produced. A dyed fabric was produced and evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the core yarn composite yarn obtained here was used. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

(Example 5)
A fabric dyed and processed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that monofilaments with a fineness of 22.0 dtex (semi-dal tensile strength 0.047 dtex / N) were used instead of the long fibers used in Example 1 were evaluated. It was. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

(Example 6)
Fabrics dyed and processed under the same conditions as in Example 1 were evaluated except that the mixing ratio of cellulose short fibers was 50% / 50% of US cotton and viscose rayon. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

(Example 7)
A fabric dyed and processed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the twist coefficient (K) = 2.0 was used as the raw yarn 1 was evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

(Example 8)
A fabric dyed and processed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the twist coefficient (K) = 8.0 was used as the raw yarn 1 was evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 1)
Fabrics dyed and processed under the same conditions as in Example 1 were evaluated except that polyester multifilaments having a fineness of 33 dtex / 12f (single yarn fineness of 2.75 dtex) were used as the long fibers used for the raw yarn 1. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 2)
Although an attempt was made to produce a composite spun yarn using 44 dtex polyester monofilament as the used long fiber of the raw yarn 1, a spun yarn could not be produced.

(Comparative Example 3)
A plain weave having a weft density of 90/88 was woven using 50's cotton yarn made of 100% cotton as the raw yarn 1 and evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 4)
The used long fibers of the raw yarn 1 are the same as those used in Example 1, and have a weft density of 90/88 inches under the same conditions as in Example 1 using a mixture ratio of 36% with cellulose short fibers. A plain woven fabric was woven, and the fabric was evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 5)
The same conditions as in Example 1 were used except that polyester filament 56 dtex / 48f (single fiber fineness: 1.17 dtex) was used as the long fiber of raw yarn 1, and the mixing ratio of polyester and cellulose was 47% / 53%. A plain fabric with a weft density of 90/88 inches was woven, and the fabric was evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 6)
In the same manner as in Comparative Example 3, a plain weave having a weft density of 90/88 was woven using 50's cotton yarn made of 100% cotton as the raw yarn 1 and evaluated. Thereafter, dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1, and then resin processing was performed with the following formulation using a padded tenter for the purpose of maintaining stable form. The wet pick-up rate was 60%, the drying temperature was 120 ° C., followed by curing at 150 ° C. for 2 minutes.
Formulation: Glyoxal-based resin processing agent (Rikiken Resin MS150, solid content 20%, Miki Riken Kogyo Co., Ltd.) 10.0% soln.
Catalyst Riken Fixer MX3 3.0% soln manufactured by Miki Riken Kogyo Co., Ltd.
Hydrophilic silicone softener (Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd. Nikka Silicon AQ-1) 2.0% soln.
The finished fabric subjected to resin processing was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.

  In Table 1, ES of the filament used in the raw yarn 1 is an ester material, and indicates the total denier and the number of filaments. The spinning method (number of fiber bundles) indicates that the number of fiber bundles of cellulosic short fibers is one or two.

(Evaluation considerations)
From Table 1, the following was confirmed. The products using Examples 1 to 6 showed good results for each item of wrinkle resistance, pleatability and texture, and were highly evaluated. Example 7 has good anti-wrinkle and pleat properties, but has a low twist coefficient (K) of 2.0. The fabric quality is not so good. In Example 8, the wrinkle resistance and pleatability are good, but the twist coefficient (K) is high at 8.0, so the thread breakage due to the twisting of the single fiber due to the strong twist or the variation in the elongation, and the weaving during weaving The fabric quality is not so good. On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 had a problem of wrinkle resistance because the single fiber fineness was less than 5 dtex. Comparative Example 2 had a problem in production because it could not be spun at a single fiber fineness of 33 dtex or more. In Comparative Example 3, no long fiber was used, and there was a problem in wrinkle resistance as in Comparative Example 1. Since the comparative example 4 used ester for the short fiber, there was a problem in the sheath coverage, and the product was irritated. In Comparative Example 5, the ratio of long fibers constituting the composite yarn was large, and the single fineness was less than 5 dtex, and there was a problem in wrinkle resistance and texture. In Comparative Example 6, since the resin processing was performed for the purpose of maintaining the shape stability, the texture was hard, and there was a problem in the quality due to the cotton fibers around the pleated portion after washing 30 being washed off. In addition to the texture, 18 ppm of formaldehyde remaining due to resin processing was detected, and fabric discoloration was also observed. Examples 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6 all have a cellulose short fiber coverage of 98%, and the same color evaluation of the front and back showing the front and back dyeing difference is 0.5 to 0.7. It shows an extremely small value, can be dyed beautifully by suppressing color spots due to the difference in dyeability between cellulose and filament, and can contribute to providing a handkerchief with higher design.

A Fiber bundle B Fiber bundle a Coarse yarn b Coarse yarn SA Short fiber SB Short fiber 1 Back roller 2 Front roller 3 Second roller F Filament yarn
8 Twist bobbins

Claims (4)

A handkerchief formed from a fabric having a core- sheath structure long / short composite yarn , the core- sheath structure long / short composite yarn comprising a core-sheath fiber bundle A in which long fibers are disposed in the core and cellulose short fibers are disposed in the sheath. Is a core-sheath structure long / short composite yarn in which a real twist is applied so that the fiber bundle B consisting only of the cellulose short fibers is tightly attached to each other, and 60% by mass or more of the fiber bundle A is from the cellulose short fibers. The fibers constituting the core portion of the core-sheath structure long / short composite yarn are made of long fibers having a single yarn fineness of 5 to 33 dtex, the short fiber coverage on the surface of the fabric is 90% or more, and the wrinkle resistance is 3 A handkerchief excellent in wrinkle resistance, characterized by being grade 3 or higher.   The handkerchief excellent in wrinkle resistance according to claim 1, wherein 60% by mass or more of the cellulose short fibers constituting the sheath part are cotton fibers. Wherein the fiber bundle A and the fiber bundle B, the actual twist with twist coefficient from 2.2 to 7.2 is that has been subjected 請 Motomeko 1 or 2 handkerchief with excellent crease resistance according to.   The handkerchief excellent in wrinkle resistance according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the coverage of cellulose short fibers on the surface of the fabric is 95% or more.