JP5718635B2 - Oily eyelash cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic for oily eyelashes.

  For eyelash cosmetics, makeup such as giving the eyelashes a voluminous feel, curling upward, and sustaining these effects, and makeup lasting effects such as water resistance and sebum resistance (makeup lasting) were performed. There are demands for both the effects required on the day and the effects required during daily use, such as little change in physical properties during high-temperature storage and long-term storage, and the finish does not deteriorate even when used for a long time.

Conventionally, with respect to the cosmetic effect of cosmetics for eyelashes, many techniques for increasing the so-called volume effect have been proposed in which a large amount of wax is contained to give a volume feeling. More specifically, a technique for blending a wax having adhesiveness (for example, Patent Document 1) and a technique for combining waxes having different melting points (for example, Patent Document 2) have been proposed.
However, when a large amount of wax is contained, there is a problem that the viscosity change during high temperature storage becomes large.

  Continuing the curling effect, even if the eyelashes are curled physically with tools such as eyelash curlers, the eyelashes are moistened by water and the curling effect over time cannot be sustained. It is known that a water-in-oil type cosmetic for eyelashes that contains only a small amount of oil or water can obtain a high curl sustaining effect as compared with a material (for example, Patent Document 3). In addition, it is known that oil-based cosmetics are superior to water-based cosmetics in terms of durability such as water resistance (for example, Patent Document 3).

On the other hand, regarding the high temperature stability of cosmetics for oily eyelashes, if the wax content is reduced to 5% or less and the oil is gelled using dextrin fatty acid ester or the like, oil exudation or separation during high temperature storage can be prevented. It is known that it can be suppressed (for example, Patent Document 3). However, there is a problem that the volume effect is reduced by reducing the wax.
In addition, regarding the high-temperature storage stability of cosmetics for oily eyelashes, it is known that the combination of (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl and anhydrous silicic acid can suppress the exudation of oil during high-temperature storage. (For example, Patent Document 4).
However, even in this case, there is a problem that it is insufficient for suppressing a change in viscosity during high-temperature storage.

In these prior arts, countermeasures have been taken for individual problems required on the day of makeup and on the day, but not all problems were satisfied at the same time.
For example, many high melting point waxes such as carnauba wax are included for oil separation when oily eyelash cosmetics are stored at high temperature and for surface whitening phenomenon where part of the wax dissolves and solidifies on the surface. However, due to the high solidification ability of high melting point waxes, the viscosity of the agent is greatly increased when stored at high temperatures. There was a problem that poor finishing occurred.

  On the other hand, when the high melting point wax is not blended, since the oil solidification ability is not high, the viscosity hardly increases even when stored at a high temperature, and there is little change in adhesion and finish even if it is used for a long time, Since the wax is easily dissolved when stored at a high temperature, there has been a problem that a surface whitening phenomenon occurs. Also, when the amount of wax is reduced, the increase in viscosity during storage at high temperature is improved, but since the amount of wax is small, there is a problem that cosmetic effects such as volume effect are reduced.

  Thus, depending on the blending amount of the wax, the presence or absence of the high melting point wax and the blending amount, cosmetic effects such as volume effect, appearance stability at high temperature storage, viscosity stability at high temperature storage and long-term use Since the balance of finished stability would change, not all problems were satisfied at the same time.

JP 2004-262915 A JP-T-2004-522701 JP 2006-306829 A JP 2004-168862 A

  The present invention is an oily eyelash cosmetic that is excellent in volume effect, curl lasting effect, and long-lasting makeup, and also has excellent appearance stability and viscosity stability during storage at high temperatures, and has a small decrease in finish even when used for a long period of time. It is an issue to provide.

  The present inventor has found that the above-mentioned problems can be solved by specifying the melting point and the blending amount of the wax component contained in the oily eyelash cosmetic and combining it with a specific surfactant.

The present invention includes the following components (A), (B) and (C):
(A) 6-35% by mass of a wax having a melting point of 55-70 ° C.
(B) 0.1-10% by mass of a surfactant having an HLB of 5-10,
(C) Volatile hydrocarbon oil 10 to 90% by mass
And an oily eyelash cosmetic containing 85% by mass or more of the component (A) in the total wax.

The oily eyelash cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in volume effect, curl lasting effect, and long-lasting makeup, and also has excellent appearance stability and viscosity stability when stored at high temperatures, and has a good finish even when used for a long time. Is obtained.
In particular, it is possible to improve the affinity between the wax and the surfactant in the volatile hydrocarbon oil by mainly using the wax ester having a polarity difference from the volatile hydrocarbon oil as the continuous phase. It becomes possible, and the high temperature storage stability effect can be further enhanced.
Moreover, the more uniform oily eyelash cosmetic can be obtained more safely by being manufactured by a specific manufacturing method.

  In the present invention, the melting point of the wax is a value measured by a melting point measurement method No. 2 which is a general test method for quasi-drug raw material standards.

As the wax, animal waxes, vegetable waxes, mineral waxes, silicone waxes, synthetic waxes and the like can be used.
Examples of the wax having a melting point of the component (A) of 55 to 70 ° C. include beeswax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, paraffin wax, and silicone wax. Commercially available products include SA bead wax-PA (melting point: 60-67 ° C.) manufactured by Croda Japan, golden brand (melting point: 60-67 ° C.) manufactured by Miki Chemical Industry, and extremely hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured by Koei Kogyo Co., Ltd. (Melting point 66-70 ° C.), Paraffin wax 135 (melting point 57-60 ° C.), paraffin wax 140 (melting point 60-63 ° C.), paraffin wax 150 (melting point 66-68 ° C.), HNP-11 (Melting point 66 to 70 ° C.), SF1642 (melting point 60 to 70 ° C.) manufactured by Momentive Performance Materials Japan LLC. Of these, beeswax is preferred in terms of imparting adhesion (volume effect) and imparting flexibility of the film, and hydrogenated jojoba oil is preferred in terms of appearance stability during high temperature storage and storage over time.

  Examples of the wax other than the component (A) (melting point is not 55 to 70 ° C.) include snow wax, shellac wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, tree wax, sunflower seed wax, orange wax, lemon wax, ceresin, and the like Other than these, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, silicone wax, synthetic beeswax and the like can be mentioned. Commercially available products include deodorized and purified carnauba wax No. 1 (melting point: 80 to 86 ° C.) manufactured by Celalica Noda, HNP-9 (melting point: 74 to 78 ° C.), Hi-Mic-2065 (melting point) manufactured by Nippon Seiki Co., Ltd. 72-78 ° C), Hi-Mic-1070 (melting point 77-82 ° C), Hi-Mic-1080 (melting point 82-88 ° C), Hi-Mic-1090 (melting point 86-90 ° C), HNP-0190 (melting point) 87-93 ° C.) and alkyl-modified silicone wax (melting point: 71-75 ° C.) described in Examples of JP-A No. 2005-145886.

  The wax having a melting point exceeding 70 ° C. can be blended for the purpose of adjusting the viscosity and adjusting the film strength after drying, but is less than 15% by weight, particularly 10% by weight, based on the weight of the component (A). Hereinafter, it is further preferably 5% by mass or less, and more preferably substantially not blended. In addition, a wax having a melting point of less than 55 ° C. can be blended for the purpose of adjusting the feeling of use, but the mass of the component (A) in terms of appearance stability during high temperature storage and storage over time. It is preferably less than 15% by mass, particularly preferably 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less, and still more preferably substantially not blended. Furthermore, the total amount of waxes other than the component (A) (melting point is not 55 to 70 ° C.) is preferably less than 15% by mass, particularly 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less in the total wax, More preferably, it is not substantially blended.

Component (A) contains wax esters such as beeswax and hydrogenated jojoba oil in the component (A) in an amount of 80 to 100% by mass, and further 90 to 100% by mass. It is preferable in terms of stability and appearance stability.
In addition, component (A) contains 5 to 50% by mass, and further 10 to 45% by mass of hydrogenated jojoba oil in component (A), in terms of appearance stability during high-temperature storage and storage over time. preferable.

  Component (A) is contained in the total composition in an amount of 6 to 35% by mass, preferably 8 to 31% by mass, and more preferably 10 to 27% by mass. It is preferable to be within this range from the viewpoint of both the volume effect and the difficulty of being lumped.

  The component (A) wax is contained in the total wax in an amount of 85% by mass or more, preferably 90 to 100% by mass. Within this range, viscosity stability is excellent, and high quality can be maintained even during long-term use.

The surfactant of component (B) used in the present invention is HLB 5-10. In particular, HLB 6 to 9 is more preferable in terms of appearance stability during high temperature storage.
Here, HLB means IOB (Inorganic Organic Balance): An inorganic-organic balance of oil content, and is an index indicating the degree of polarity of the oil content, and is a value representing a ratio of the oil content to the inorganic organic property. Yes, IOB = inorganic value of the oil component / expressed by the organic value of the oil component).

  As the surfactant of component (B), a silicone-based surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, or the like can be used. More specifically, oxazoline-modified silicone, polyether-modified silicone, (vinyl pyrrolidone / hexadecene) copolymer, (eicosene / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer, isostearyl glyceryl, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene oleyl ether, polyoxyethylene Stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether, polyoxyethylene behenyl ether, polyoxyethylene isocetyl ether, polyoxyethylene isostearyl ether, polyoxyethylene octyldodecyl ether, sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene monoisostearate Glycol, polyethylene glyceryl monostearate, polyoxyethylene cured Oil, polyoxyethylene glyceryl isostearate, polyoxyethylene glyceryl triisostearate, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil laurate, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate, polyglycerin fatty acid ester Etc. Among these, oxazoline-modified silicone, (vinyl pyrrolidone / hexadecene) copolymer, (eicosene / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer, polyethylene glycol monoisostearate, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate, It is preferable in terms of appearance stability at high temperature storage.

  One or more types of component (B) can be used, and 0.1 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 8% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 6% by mass in the total composition. This range is preferable from the viewpoint of appearance stability during high temperature storage.

  The volatile hydrocarbon oil of component (C) used in the present invention is not limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics. For example, isododecane, saturated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon mainly having 8 to 16 carbon atoms. Oil (hydrogenated polyisobutene) or the like can be used. Examples of commercially available products include Marcazole R manufactured by Maruzen Petrochemical Co., Ltd., IP Solvent 1620 manufactured by Idemitsu Kosan Co., Ltd., and 2028.

  One or more types of component (C) can be used, and 10 to 90% by mass, preferably 15 to 70% by mass, and more preferably 20 to 60% by mass in the total composition. Within this range, a favorable drying rate can be obtained, and oily components such as wax necessary for exhibiting a volume effect and the like can be dispersed and dissolved, which is preferable.

Furthermore, the oily eyelash cosmetic of the present invention can contain an oil-soluble resin, and can further improve the volume effect, curl sustaining effect, makeup retention, and the like. The oil-soluble resin is not particularly limited as long as it can be dissolved in oil which is a continuous phase, but silicone-based, fluorine-based, plant-based and synthetic systems can be used.
Examples of the oil-soluble resin include trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, polymethylsilsesquiosan, candelilla resin, hydrogenated pentalithicyl rosin acid, and the like.

  One or more oil-soluble resins can be used, and 0.5 to 30% by mass, particularly 2 to 27% by mass, and more preferably 5 to 24% by mass in the total composition contain a volume effect and a curl sustaining effect. And it is preferable from the viewpoint of having a makeup.

  Furthermore, the oily eyelash cosmetic of the present invention can contain powder and can further improve the volume effect and the like. Examples of such powders include inorganic powders, organic powders, composite powders thereof, and the like used in ordinary cosmetics. More specifically, conger, ultramarine, bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, silicon dioxide, boron nitride, carbon black, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, mica, synthetic mica, seri Site, synthetic sericite, talc, bentonite, hectorite, PMMA, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, lauroyl taurine Ca, lauroyl lysine, silica, kaolin, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, smectite, titanium mica, titanium iron mica titanium, aluminum powder And organic tar pigments, lake pigments of organic dyes, fine particle titanium oxide-coated mica titanium, fine particle zinc oxide-coated mica titanium, and barium sulfate-coated mica titanium.

  The powder may have a hydrophobic surface, and can further improve dispersibility. The hydrophobic treatment is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include alkylsilane, silicone, acrylic silicone, a fluorine compound, and composite treatment thereof.

  One or more kinds of powders can be used, and it is preferably 0.1 to 30% by mass, particularly 2 to 26% by mass, and more preferably 4 to 22% by mass in the total composition from the viewpoint of volume effect.

  The cosmetics for eyelashes of the present invention, in addition to the above components, are components used in ordinary cosmetics, such as water, fatty acids, higher alcohols, alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, volatile silicone oils, volatile fluorine oils, Non-volatile ester oil, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, non-volatile silicone oil, non-volatile fluorine oil, pH adjuster, neutralizer, inorganic salt, UV absorber, UV scattering agent, moisturizer, fragrance, antioxidant, antiseptic Additives such as agents, sequestering agents, antifoaming agents, fibers, dyes and various extracts can be contained.

  The cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by heating all the raw materials to the melting point of the wax or higher and cooling them with uniform stirring.

  In particular, a vibration type agitation and mixing device provided with a stirrer comprising a drive shaft and a stirring blade attached to the drive shaft in a tubular casing, and the drive shaft vibrates in the axial direction is used. It is preferable to manufacture. Such an apparatus makes it possible to increase the cooling rate, so that a cosmetic with finer wax can be obtained. As such a vibration type stirring and mixing apparatus, for example, the one described in JP 2008-214212 A can be used.

  Furthermore, cosmetics can be more safely manufactured by manufacturing the oil phase which becomes a continuous phase without heating it above the flash point of the oil phase.

  The oily eyelash cosmetic of the present invention can be used, for example, by applying to eyelashes using a brush, a resin molding applicator or a metal molding applicator.

Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3
The cosmetics for eyelashes having the composition shown in Table 1 were produced, and the volume effect, the curl sustaining effect, the makeup holding effect, the appearance stability, the viscosity stability and the quality during long-term use were evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 1.

(Production method)
The components of the oil phase 1 in Table 1 were heated and mixed at 90 ° C., and then dispersed into the oil phase 1. Separately, the oil phase 2 component in Table 1 was dispersed at 25 ° C. to obtain oil phase 2. The oil phase 1 was supplied to a vibration type stirring and mixing apparatus (Civil Industrial Co., Ltd., Vibro mixer) with a metering pump, and continuously cooled to 25 ° C. or lower while stirring. In the process of continuous cooling while stirring, the oil phase 2 was injected from the middle of the vibration type stirring and mixing device with a metering pump, and oily eyelash cosmetics were continuously obtained while stirring. The jet temperature of the vibration type stirring and mixing apparatus was adjusted so that the liquid temperature in the mixing part of the oil phase 1 and the oil phase 2 was 45 to 48 ° C., which was lower than the flash point (49 ° C.) of the oil phase 2. The vibration frequency of the vibration type stirring and mixing apparatus was 20 strokes / sec.

(Evaluation method)
About each cosmetic for eyelashes, the volume effect, the curl lasting effect, and the makeup lasting were actually used by 20 female monitors, and the sensory evaluation was performed by the user. The applicator used was a brush in which fibers commonly used in eyelash cosmetics were twisted with a wire.

(1) Volume effect:
About the state immediately after application | coating of each cosmetics for eyelashes, it evaluated visually and the result was shown by the number of people who evaluated that there was a volume effect.

(2) Curling effect:
The state of the eyelash cosmetics after 4 hours of application was visually evaluated and the results were shown by the number of people who evaluated that there was a curl sustaining effect.

(3) Makeup:
Results were shown by the number of people who evaluated the state at the time when 8 hours had passed after the application of each eyelash cosmetic, and were evaluated as having excellent makeup (bleeding resistance).

(4) Appearance stability:
Each eyelash cosmetic was stored in an airtight container at 50 ° C. for 1 week, the appearance after storage was visually evaluated, and the following determination was made.
A: No oil separation or surface whitening.
○: Slight oil separation and surface whitening are observed, but there is no problem in actual use.
Δ: Slight oil separation and whitening of the surface are observed, but are within the allowable range in actual use.
X: Separation of oil and whitening of the surface are observed, causing problems in use.

(5) Viscosity stability:
Each eyelash cosmetic was stored in an airtight container at 40 ° C. for 2 weeks, the rate of change in viscosity before and after storage was determined, and the following determination was performed. Viscosity was measured using a B-type viscometer (type B8R, manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd.) at 25 ° C., the rotation speed was 5 rpm, and the value was read after 1 minute of rotation. The rotor was appropriately selected so that the indicated value was in the range of 10 to 100 of the gauge according to the viscosity range of the eyelash cosmetic.
A: When stored at 40 ° C. for 2 weeks, the viscosity change before and after storage is not more than twice.
◯: When stored at 40 ° C. for 2 weeks, the viscosity change before and after storage exceeds 2 times and is 2.5 times or less.
Δ: Storage at 40 ° C. for 2 weeks, viscosity change before and after storage exceeds 2.5 times and 3 times or less.
×: Storage at 40 ° C. for 2 weeks, viscosity change before and after storage exceeds 3 times.

(6) Quality during long-term use:
About each eyelash cosmetic, the quality at the time of long-term use was actually used by 20 female monitors, and sensory evaluation was carried out. The applicator used was a brush in which fibers commonly used in eyelash cosmetics were twisted with a wire.
The sensory evaluation was performed on the quality of each eyelash cosmetic after 2 months of use, and the results were shown by the number of people who were evaluated as being excellent in quality (volume, finish) during long-term use.

Claims (6)

The following components (A), (B) and (C):
(A) 10 to 35% by mass of a wax having a melting point of 55 to 70 ° C.
(B) 0.1-10% by mass of a surfactant having an HLB of 5-10,
(C) Volatile hydrocarbon oil 10 to 90% by mass
Containing 85% by mass or more of component (A) in the total wax ,
Oily eyelash cosmetic , wherein 10 to 45% by mass of component (A) is hydrogenated jojoba oil .   The oily eyelash cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein 80 to 100% by mass of the component (A) is a wax ester. Component (B) is oxazoline-modified silicone, (vinyl pyrrolidone / hexadecene) copolymer, (eicosene / vinyl pyrrolidone) copolymer, polyethylene glycol monoisostearate, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil and polyisoethylene stearate polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil The cosmetic for oily eyelashes according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the cosmetic is selected from. Manufactured using a vibratory stirring and mixing device that includes a stirrer comprising a drive shaft and a stirring blade attached to the drive shaft in a tubular casing, and the drive shaft vibrates in the axial direction. The cosmetic for oily eyelashes according to any one of claims 1 to 3 . The oily eyelash cosmetic according to claim 4 , wherein the oil phase to be a continuous phase is produced without being heated above the flash point of the oil phase. A cosmetic method for applying the oily eyelash cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5 to the eyelashes using a brush, a resin molding applicator, or a metal molding applicator.