JP5314849B2 - Baking-type makeup cosmetic composition using water-in-oil emulsion containing water-dispersed inorganic thickener and production method - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a new concept make-up solid color cosmetic that overcomes the general limitations of ingredients and manufacturing methods used by existing make-up solid cosmetics.

  In existing methods, solid makeup cosmetics are produced by molding (in most cases compression molding) at least one powder powder having a relatively large specific surface area and strong cohesive strength, or at least one kind. The usual method is to form a powder powder by finely dispersing 5 to 10% by weight of ester-based, hydrocarbon-based, silicon-based, triglyceride-based oil, etc. and then compression molding. . However, such an existing method has a disadvantage that it does not satisfy the makeup effect originally pursued by makeup cosmetics. Specifically, since it does not contain a certain amount of pearl powder such as titanium mica, a desired level of pearly feeling cannot be realized on the skin, and a large amount of oil contained in the compressed powder dosage form contains skin. It has the disadvantage that it prevents the dosage form from adsorbing to sebum and the like secreted from the skin and easily induces a phenomenon of skin glossiness. In addition, in terms of dosage form, in the case of eye shadows used for eye makeup, the pearl powder of titanium mica recorded in the cosmetic raw material standard has a large repulsive force between particles and a large single particle. In order to show a level of molding strength, it is difficult to use 50% by weight or more in a general dosage form (compression molding). In addition, when using nylon, silica, PMMA, silicon-based powder, etc., which has a soft feeling of use and sebum adsorption ability and is useful for softening the skin, it has disadvantages similar to those described above. Difficult to use in dosage form in large quantities. In order to compensate for the above disadvantages, when an excessive amount of oil and wax binder is used, the solid cosmetic surface is covered with a thin oil film, and the solid cosmetic no longer adheres to the skin [hereinafter, This phenomenon is called caking phenomenon. ], And the feeling of use of cosmetics is greatly reduced.

  On the other hand, there has been an attempt to supplement the disadvantages of the dosage form described above by mixing powder powder, an oil binder, a thickener, and a volatile solvent.

In Patent Document 1, chlorofluorohydrocarbon is used as a volatile solvent and alkyl bentonite is used as a thickening agent. However, there is a disadvantage that it is impossible to contain 60% by weight or more of mica titanium. In Patent Document 2, water, fatty oil and wax are used as O / W emulsions as volatile solvents, and xanthan gum is used as a thickener, but the repulsive force between the powder form and O / W emulsion is large. Since the dispersion force is not good, it is impossible to uniformly disperse the powder particles. In particular, when using powder coated with a coating base such as silicon having high water resistance, such a phenomenon becomes more conspicuous. In addition, xanthan gum used as a thickener is an organic substance, so the resistance to microorganisms is significantly degraded, and the drying time in the process is very long, so it can be applied to actual manufacturing processes that require mass production. There is a disadvantage that it is difficult to do.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,992,262 PCT / IB02 / 05257

From this, in order to solve the problems as described above, the present inventors reduced the contents of oil and wax used as binders, and at the same time, showed the characteristics of makeup solid color cosmetics, mica titanium, nylon, Even when a large amount of spherical pigments such as silica, PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate), and silicon powder are contained, a makeup solid color cosmetic composition that exhibits a certain level of strength, improved coloring power and feeling of use has been studied. A water-in-oil pre-emulsion (pre-emulsion) produced by mixing a powder powder produced with or without a small amount of oil or wax as a binder, a water-dispersed inorganic thickener and volatile silicone oil. ), And after forming into a paste, found that the purpose can be achieved by forming and drying to form a dosage form This has led to the completion of the present invention.

It is an object of the present invention to contain a large amount of powder powder exhibiting the characteristics of a makeup solid color cosmetic, a small amount of silicon oil or a wax binder, or a powder powder that does not use it, and a water-dispersed inorganic thickener. It is to provide a water-in-oil pre-emulsion.

Another object of the present invention is to make a powder powder and a water-in-oil pre-emulsion by remixing into a dosage form, thereby making it excellent in use feeling such as coloring power, glossiness and durability against sebum. It is in providing the composition and manufacturing method of solid color cosmetics.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention comprises mixing a powder powder with or without a small amount of silicon oil or wax binder and a water-in-oil pre-emulsion containing a water-dispersed inorganic thickener. Provided are a composition and a method for producing a makeup solid color cosmetic.

The composition of the make-up solid color cosmetic according to the present invention contains 60 to 99.5% by weight of powder powder with respect to the whole composition, and contains a water-in-oil (W / S) pre-emulsion with respect to the whole composition. Contains 0.5 to 40% by weight.

In the present invention, a powder composition with or without a small amount of silicon oil or wax binder and a water-in-oil pre-emulsion containing a water-dispersed inorganic thickener are used as a composition for a makeup solid color cosmetic. As a result, even when a large amount of spherical pigments such as mica titanium, nylon, silica, PMMA, and silicon powder were contained, the strength, color development, and gloss effect exceeding a certain level could be greatly improved. Furthermore, a smooth spreadability and a soft feeling of use can be provided.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
Prepare at least one powder powder, or mix 80 to 99.5% by weight of at least one powder powder and 0.5 to 20% by weight of silicone oil or wax binder to form powder powder prepare a mixture of, also, 1.0 to 10.0 wt% of at least one water dispersible inorganic thickeners, 20.0 to 60.0 wt% of a volatile silicone oil, 1.0 to 70. A water-in-oil (W / S) pre-emulsion was prepared by mixing 0% by weight of water and 0.1 to 20.0% by weight of a surfactant . These powder compositions and water-in-oil (W / S) A pre-emulsion is mixed to form a paste, which is then molded and dried to form a makeup solid color cosmetic.

In the composition of a make-up solid color cosmetic , the powder powder is formulated with only the powder powder component or as a mixture with a silicone oil or wax binder.

Powder powder components are generally used in cosmetics, and include talc, mica, sericite, silica, titanium mica, titanium dioxide, PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate), nylon listed in the cosmetic raw material standards or INCI. and Ru least one der selected from silicon powder.

In particular, the composition may contain a large amount of spherical pigments such as titanium mica, nylon, silica, PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate), and silicon powder .

Silicon oil or wax binder may be used together in a certain amount depending on the type and content of the water dispersion thickener, or may be used in the form of a pre-emulsion to increase the molding ability of the water dispersion thickener. Or can impart a soft feeling of use, and can contain fragrances, preservatives, and the like. Examples of the silicone oil include methicone, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, and phenyl trimethicone. Examples of the wax include an ether type, a silicon type, and a hydrocarbon type. The silicone oil or wax binder is used in an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the mixture of both when used in combination with powder powder . Or the composition of a makeup solid color cosmetics can also be manufactured using only a powder powder , without using the said silicone oil or wax binder.

Water-in-oil (W / S) pre-emulsions are made using water-dispersed inorganic thickeners, water, volatile silicone oils and surfactants .

  Water-dispersed inorganic thickeners have the characteristic of increasing fluidity or rearranging depending on the polarity of water when dispersed in water. From magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate and magnesium sodium silicate One or more selected is used in an amount of 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 5.0 to 10.0% by weight, based on the composition of the water-in-oil (W / S) pre-emulsion. When less than 1.0% by weight is used, the binding ability of the water-dispersed inorganic thickener contained in the pre-emulsion is lowered, and the drop stability is remarkably deteriorated after molding. When it is used in excess of 10.0% by weight, it is not in a water-dispersed state but in a paste state, and mixing with powder becomes impossible. The above-mentioned water-dispersed inorganic thickener is shaped in each layer in a dry state, each layer is separated by a very small amount of water, and metal ions are present on the surface of each layer. Each layer exhibits a polarity in which there are a positive (+) charged corner portion and a negative (−) charged surface portion, and metal ions are present attached to the negative surface. At this time, when water is added to the water-dispersed inorganic binder, the water molecules are adsorbed by the metal ions present on the surface, and the water molecules are further attracted to the polarized water molecules (Brothers). Bonded, surface negative electricity is further expanded, and the ionized layers are relaxed due to infinite demand for water molecules, reaching expansion failure, and water-dispersed inorganic binders between layers interspersed with water molecules. The scattered and exposed surfaces are partially connected to one another. When mixing is interrupted, the positively (+) charged surface comes into contact with the negatively (-) charged surface, forming a so-called “House of cards” structure in which the hydrated internal structure is regularly aligned. To do. An existing powder is inserted between the structures to form a dosage form. When an external force is applied to such a structure in which water molecules can freely travel, the shape is further disturbed and further reshaped in a stable state.

  The water is distilled water and is used in an amount of 1.0 to 70.0% by weight based on the composition of the water-in-oil (W / S) pre-emulsion. When less than 1.0% by weight is used, it is impossible to uniformly disperse the water-dispersed thickener in the pre-emulsion composition. When more than 70% by weight is used, the pre-emulsion composition is blended. Since the ratio is exceeded, it becomes impossible to mix the amount of the water-dispersed inorganic thickener necessary for stabilizing the dosage form.

Volatile silicone oil is used in an amount of 20.0 to 60.0% by weight based on the composition of a water-in-oil (W / S) pre-emulsion. Contains silicone oil including structure. When the volatile silicone oil is used in an amount of less than 20% by weight based on the water-in-oil (W / S) pre-emulsion composition, it is impossible to produce a water-in-oil (W / S) pre-emulsion composition. When it is used in excess of 60% by weight, it is impossible to produce a paste shape by mixing with powder.

The surfactant is used in an amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight based on the composition of the water-in-oil (W / S) pre-emulsion. When using less than 0.1% by weight, it is impossible to produce a composition of a water-in-oil (W / S) pre-emulsion, and when using over 20% by weight, it is more than necessary. An additional reverse function is generated by the surfactant. The surfactant has a dimethicone, sorbitan, polyglyceryl, or glucoside structure.

  In the makeup solid color cosmetic composition of the present invention, in addition to the above components, an oily raw material, a moisturizer, an antioxidant, an ultraviolet absorber, a fragrance and the like are included within a range not damaging the effects of the present invention depending on the purpose. Can be blended.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to the following examples and comparative examples. However, these examples and comparative examples clarify the technical contents of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples.

[Examples 1 and 2: General compression dosage form firing type]
Group 1 formed in the form of a W / S pre-emulsion after thoroughly mixing Group 1 having the composition shown in Table 1 below with a Henschel mixer and finely dispersing Group 2 into Group 1. Were mixed again with the mixture of Group 1 and Group 2 to form a powder paste, and then an eye shadow was produced through compression molding and a drying process at 70 ° C.

[Examples 3 and 4: Stick dosage form firing type]
Group 1 having the composition shown in Table 2 below is thoroughly mixed in a Henschel mixer, Group 2 is mixed well at 70 ° C. and finely dispersed in Group 1, and then the W / S pre-emulsion is mixed. The group 3 formed in the form was remixed with the mixture of group 1 and group 2 to form a powder paste, and then an eye shadow was manufactured through extrusion and drying at 50 ° C.

[Comparative Example 1: General compression dosage form general type]
A mixture of Group 1 and Group 2 in which Group 1 having the composition shown in Table 3 below was thoroughly mixed in a Henschel mixer, and Group 2 was mixed well at 70 ° C. and finely dispersed in Group 1 was prepared. An eye shadow was produced by compression molding.

[Test Example 1: Glossiness evaluation]
In order to evaluate the glossiness of the eye shadows produced in Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Example 1, the eye shadows of Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Example 1 were applied in the same amount to the artificial skin coated with artificial sebum. It was applied and the gloss was measured. A gloss meter (Gardener's micro-Tri-gloss series) was used as a gloss measuring device. The gloss meter is a device for measuring a visual gloss when applying a makeup color solid cosmetic to the skin, and is usually used to measure the degree of gloss, with a reflection angle of 60 to 100 as a reference. Are displayed as relative values.

As shown in Table 4, Examples 1 and 3 prepared using only powder powder without using silicon oil were prepared using silicon oil and powder powder . Compared to Example 2 and Example 4, there was no significant difference in glossiness, and the eye shadows of Examples 1 to 4 were 1.5 times the eye shadow of Comparative Example 1 containing no W / S pre-emulsion. It can be seen that it has excellent gloss.

[Test Example 2: Usability evaluation]
In order to evaluate the feeling of use of the eye shadows produced in Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Example 1, it is intended to be used on 25 consumers of 20 to 45 years selected at random. After that, the quality was compared. The results are shown in Table 5.

  As can be seen from Table 5, Examples 1 to 4 showed better results than Comparative Example 1 in terms of color developability, adhesion, spreadability and sustainability.

Claims (8)

60 to 99.5% by weight of powder powder and 0.5 to 40% by weight of water-in-oil (W / S) pre-emulsion with respect to the total cosmetic composition % Content ,
The water-in-oil (W / S) pre-emulsion is one or more selected from magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium sodium silicate with respect to the water-in-oil (W / S) pre-emulsion. Water-dispersed inorganic thickener in a proportion of 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, water in a proportion of 1.0 to 70.0% by weight, and volatile silicone oil in a proportion of 20.0 to 60.0% by weight. A make-up solid color cosmetic composition comprising a surfactant in a proportion of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight . The makeup according to claim 1, wherein the powder powder is formulated as a mixture of 80 to 99.5 wt% powder powder and 0.5 to 20 wt% silicone oil or wax binder. Solid color cosmetic composition. The makeup according to claim 2 , wherein the powder powder is blended as a mixture of 90 to 99.5 wt% powder powder and 0.5 to 10 wt% silicone oil or wax binder. Solid color cosmetic composition. The powder powder is at least one selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, sericite, silica, titanium mica, titanium dioxide, PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate), nylon, and silicon powder. The makeup solid color cosmetic composition as described in 1-3. The makeup solid color cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 , wherein the composition is in the form of compression molding. (A) preparing powder powder;
(B) 1.0 to 10.0% by weight of one or more water-dispersed inorganic thickeners selected from magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium sodium silicate , 20.0 to 60.0% by weight Mixing a volatile silicone oil of 1.0 to 70.0% by weight of water and 0.1 to 20.0% by weight of a surfactant to produce a water-in-oil emulsion;
(C) The powder powder prepared in the step (a) and the emulsion obtained in the step (b) are mixed, formed into a paste, and then molded and dried.
A method for producing a makeup solid color cosmetic composition, comprising: The step (a) includes a step of mixing a powdery powder with silicon oil or a wax binder to obtain a mixture. In the step (c), the mixture obtained in the step (a) and the step (b) The method according to claim 6 , wherein the emulsion obtained in the step is mixed . Powder powder, according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that it is formulated as a mixture with 80 to 99.5 wt% of the powder powder and 0.5 to 20 wt% of silicone oil or wax binder Method for producing makeup solid color cosmetics.