JP4958046B2 - Ancon jacket - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to an uncon jacket, and more particularly to an uncon jacket that maintains a good external shape and appearance without using any interlining and shoulder pads.

  A jacket-type outerwear with a folded collar such as a back is sewn or bonded with a large number of interlinings on the back side of the front cloth centering on the front body, and padding is embedded in the shoulder, Of course, beautiful appearance (mainly, the collar line, shoulder line, and sleeve line) centering on the folded part of the lower collar and appearance (mainly the three-dimensional shape of the shoulder and chest) Natural roundness formed without any wrinkles on the curved surface.

  FIG. 5 is a typical example of a jacket-type outerwear that has been generally provided and worn so far (tailored jacket-type outerwear). In this example, a cutout is made around a turn 11 that forms a folded collar (lower collar), and a standard interlining and shoulder pad mounting example is shown.

  As shown in the figure, in this type of outerwear, interlinings 10a and 11a are provided over almost the entire back surface of the front body 10 and the turn-back 11 that is connected to the edge of the mating side and forms a lower collar. In addition, a chest core 10b, a felt core 10c, and a shoulder bath core 10d are sequentially laminated from the shoulder to the chest portion of the front body 10, and a shoulder pad 10e is embedded in the armhole portion of the front body 10 and the neckline. A collar 12a is also provided on the upper collar 12 sewn to the portion.

  As described above, the conventional jacket type outerwear is provided with a beautiful outer shape and appearance by the frequently used interlining and shoulder pads, but the presence of the interlining and shoulder pads is the weight of the outerwear. It occupies at least half of the area and hinders breathability, greatly increasing the labor and cost of production and manufacturing, and the shrinkage of the interlining located between the front and back fabric when immersed in water is different In addition to making washing difficult, it has also hindered the spread of uniforms that are worn in situations where there is a high possibility of getting wet.

For this reason, an ancon jacket that excludes some or all of the interlining and shoulder pads has been proposed in the past, mainly in summer clothes where there is a strong demand for lighter and breathable outerwear (the uncon jacket is an un- (abbreviation for constructed jacket).

JP-A-7-82602 JP-A-8-134703

  However, if the interlining and shoulder pads are removed from the jacket-type outerwear, the basic outer shape of the outerwear cannot be maintained, the shoulder line will bend gently, and the lower collar will not be folded back. In addition, the outer surface of the lower collar was wrinkled and twisted, and the end part drooped unnaturally. As a result, it was not possible to secure the outer shape and appearance that deserves to be called a jacket-type outerwear when worn.

  For this reason, even in the conventional example of the uncon jacket, it is virtually abandoned to completely remove the interlining and shoulder pads, and the materials used while maintaining the interlining and shoulder pads are reduced in weight and ventilation. However, it has been limited to patents (patent document 1) or to reduce the area of the lining to the limit to ensure weight reduction and air permeability (patent document 2).

  However, since the interlining and shoulder pads occupy nearly half of the jacket weight and are the biggest factor that impairs the breathability, effective weight reduction and breathability improvement can be achieved while maintaining the interlining and shoulder pads. There is no trap that can be realized.

  In addition, it is difficult to find an effective conventional technique that can be used to realize an ancon jacket that completely eliminates the interlining and shoulder pads, and there are some cases that slightly simplify the form of the interlining, As with the above-mentioned Patent Documents 1 and 2, since the interlining and shoulder pads must be maintained, it is not possible to meet the many demands placed on the uncon jacket and it is difficult to call the uncon jacket itself. .

  An object of the present invention is to provide an uncon jacket that maintains a good external shape and appearance without using any interlining or shoulder pads in response to a request that has not been fulfilled while being gathered in the past. is there.

The first feature of the present invention is an uncon jacket that does not use any interlining and shoulder pads, and the front body is superposed on the outer edge of the normal outer shape at the end edge on the mating side where the facing is continuously provided. The outer edge of the outer cloth and the outer cloth are different in outer edge from the outer edge of the outer edge of the outer cloth. An uncon jacket characterized by being sewn with the edges aligned.

The second feature of the present invention is that the lining fabric of the front body is provided with a bulging portion that protrudes outward from the outer edge of the outer surface of the outer cover overlapped at the neckline portion, and the outer shape is formed at the neckline portion. It is characterized by being sewn in a state in which the different outer cloth and outer edge are aligned .

The third feature of the present invention is that the front cloth has a bulging portion that protrudes outward from the outer edge of the outer surface of the front cloth that is overlapped at the armhole portion. It is characterized by being sewn in a state in which the outer edge and the outer edge having the different outer shapes are aligned .

The fourth feature of the present invention is that the back cloth of the front body is positioned inside the outer edge of the outer cloth overlapped in the part from the rear position of the shoulder to the upper end of the armhole part. And is sewn in a state where the outer edge is aligned with the outer cloth having a different outer shape in a portion extending from the rear position of the shoulder to the upper end of the armhole portion .

According to the present invention, the back cloth constituting the front body is given a specific outer shape that is completely different from the normal outer face cloth, and thereby the inner and outer diameter difference between the front cloth and the back cloth at the curved surface portion and the bent portion. Since the unstable load produced by this is eliminated, the use of this front body can provide an uncon jacket that maintains a good external shape and appearance without using any interlining or shoulder pads.

  Hereinafter, the best mode for carrying out the present invention will be described.

  The present inventor has found and identified the cause of taking away a good external shape and appearance from the ancon jacket from which the interlining and the shoulder pad have been removed, through years of experience and research as a clothing producer.

  That is, according to the study of the present inventor, in the conventional jacket-type outerwear, the interlining and shoulder pads are entirely responsible for the formation and holding of the outer shape and appearance, so that the front body is constituted. The shape of the front and back fabrics to be cut and their sewing methods do not contribute to the formation and maintenance of the outer shape and appearance of the outerwear, and conversely the outer shape and outerwear of the outerwear when the interlining and shoulder pads are removed. It is only a thing that impairs the appearance.

  However, with the conventional Ancon jacket, even when the interlining and shoulder pads that support the external appearance and appearance are removed, the shape and sewing of the front and back fabrics that make up the front body depend on the interlining and shoulder pads. Since the conventional method has been followed, it has been impossible not only to form and maintain a good outer appearance and appearance of the jacket, but also to obstruct them.

  In other words, in the conventional jacket-type outerwear, the front and back cloths that are sewn across the interlining are cut into the same shape and the same size, and the outer edges are aligned and sewn together. (However, what was supposed to be sewn with the exact outer shape and the edges aligned was the shoulder, neckline, and armholes that were thought to delineate the main outline of the outerwear. The side edge of the mating side that forms the lower collar by connecting the facings and folds back, the mating side part from the buttonhole part toward the hem, and the armhole that is sewn to the back body by taking darts through the side The outline of the lining cloth in the part from the end to the hem is left to the creator's freedom in relation to the interlining used).

  Here, the front and back fabrics, which have the same shape and the same size and are sewn with the outer edges aligned, can form and hold a desired flat shape and appearance in the flat state where both are overlapped. However, when a curved surface is formed or bent with both layers overlapped, the outer shape is destroyed, and it is inevitable that unnatural wrinkles and twists occur on the surface.

  The reason for this is that, as shown in FIG. 3, when a curved surface is formed with two pieces of the same shape and the same size overlapped (a in FIG. 3) or bent (b in FIG. 3), the upper and lower cloths An inner / outer diameter difference corresponding to at least the thickness of the cloth L positioned below is created between the cloths U, and the cloth U positioned above the cloth L positioned below at the end portion due to the inner / outer diameter difference. This is because a gap G is generated due to insufficient length or width.

  In the conventional uncon jacket, even though the two cloths having a curved surface formed or bent have a deviation G based on the difference between the inner and outer diameters at the end portion, the outer edges of the two deviations are aligned and sewn. As shown in FIG. 4, an unstable load based on this shift is applied to both surfaces and the stitched portion as shown in FIG. 4, and this load is formed and held by two cloths sewn. It will impede the outer shape and surface appearance.

  In FIG. 4, in order to schematically show the influence of the inner and outer diameter differences on the upper and lower two cloths sewn with the end portions aligned, the tension of the upper cloth U and the lower cloth L Although the slackened state is shown in an exaggerated manner, this state is not maintained, and the upper cloth U placed in a state where the length and the width are insufficiently stretched with respect to the lower cloth L As a result of applying the pulling load, the stretched shape of the cloth U positioned above is greatly broken, and both the upper and lower cloths overlapped or exhibit a loose or distorted outer shape and appearance.

  For example, in the front and back fabrics that make up the front body of the outerwear, the outer edges of the mating side edges that should be folded together and folded to form the lower collar have the same shape and dimensions, and both edges are aligned. If the side facing from this part is folded back to the front side of the front body, the upper body and the cloth located above and in the bending area through the whole facing part This creates a difference in the inner and outer diameters of the cloth, and applies a load that pulls the back cloth of the front body located above the bending area in the direction opposite to the folding position against the front cloth located below, so that the folding position itself is stably determined. In addition, the lower collar folded back to the front side is also subjected to a load that attracts it in the direction of the folding position due to the difference in inner and outer diameters of the entire bending area, and also maintains the appearance and appearance of the folded collar portion. Can not even.

  In this way, in the conventional ancon jacket, when the interlining and shoulder pads were removed, the reason why the outer shape and appearance appearance could not be formed and retained was the front body composed of the bent part and curved part This is because the difference between the inner and outer diameters produced between the front and back cloths, the deviation produced by the inner and outer diameter differences and the unstable load were not considered.

  FIG. 1 shows an example of an ancon jacket according to the present invention. As shown by a notch provided in the front body 10 of the ancon jacket J, a turn 11 folded back as a lower collar, and an upper collar 12, The shoulder pad is not used at all, but it is possible to form and maintain a good external shape and appearance appearance, as described below, at a predetermined position on the back cloth constituting the front body. By giving the outer shape different from the front cloth, the displacement caused by the difference between the inner and outer diameters of the front cloth and the back cloth placed on the curved surface portion or the bent portion and the unstable load based on this are eliminated.

  FIG. 2a shows the front cloth 1 of the left front body used for the ancon jacket according to the present embodiment, and its outer shape is usually common like the conventional jacket, but FIG. As shown in FIG. 2, the outer edge of the outer cloth 1 and the outer edge of the outer cloth 1 are aligned and sewn to give a different outer shape from the outer cloth 1 to a predetermined position of the back cloth 2 to be cut.

That is, as shown in FIG. 2c in which the front cloth 1 and the back cloth 2 are overlapped, the edge part (1a-2a) on the mating side of the front body that folds back and forms the lower collar is continuously provided. When the outer shapes of the front cloth 1 and the back cloth 2 are compared for the neckline (1b-2b) and the neckline (1d-2d) , the outer edge of the back cloth 2 is overlapped with the outer edge. A total of three bulging portions P that protrude outward from the outer edge of the cloth 1 are provided, and the outer edge of the backing cloth 2 having the bulging portion P and the outer edge of the outer cloth 1 are aligned. It is configured to wear and form the front body. Note that the illustrated back fabric 2 is greatly cut out from the end portion of the armhole 2d to the hem, and has a shape that is clearly different from the outer shape of the front fabric 1, but this portion is different from the outer shape and appearance of the ancon jacket. It is a part that is not directly related, and it is up to the producer / manufacturer even in the conventional jacket-type outerwear, and of course, it is not necessary to sew the outer cloth 1 and the outer edge together.

Thus, in the uncon jacket according to the present embodiment, there are a total of three bulging portions P at the predetermined position of the back cloth 2 constituting the front body, and the front cloth 1 to be overlapped and sewn. Since it is sewn in a state where different outer edges of the front cloth 1 and the back cloth 2 are aligned after giving different outer shapes, the surface cloth 1 and the back cloth 2 which have been sewn are stably kept in a flat state. However, when the curved portion and the bent portion that are indispensable to the front body are given, the presence of the bulging portion P added to the predetermined position of the backing fabric 2 is the surface fabric. Displacement caused by the difference between the inner and outer diameters of 1 and the backing cloth 2 and unstable load based on the difference are eliminated, and it is possible to form and maintain a good outer shape and appearance appearance of the jacket.

  That is, the uncon jacket according to the present embodiment protrudes from the end edge of the front cloth 1 overlapped with the back cloth 2 at the end edge portion 2a on the mating side of the front body where the turn which should be folded back to form the lower collar is provided. In order to sew the outer edges of both sides aligned and sew together after giving the bulging portion P, the front cloth 1 and the back cloth located in the folded area are formed when the turn-back is continuously provided and folded to form the lower collar. The bulging portion P of the backing cloth 2 cancels out the deviation produced by the inner and outer diameter differences of the inner and outer diameters, so that the inner and outer diameter differences are different from the folded position of the lower collar as well as the surface of the lower collar and the sewing end. Therefore, the shape of the lower collar and the folding line can be well formed and held.

  In particular, in the illustrated embodiment, since the bulging portion P is also provided at the lower portion of the armhole portion 2d of the backing cloth 2, the outer shape and appearance appearance of the entire front body extending from the folded position of the lower collar to the sleeved position. The laterally unstable load that impairs the appearance is not applied, so the outer shape and appearance of the folded lower collar are well formed and maintained, as well as a natural three-dimensional effect centered on the chest of the front body Lines at the sleeves and sleeves are also well formed and held.

  In addition, the neckline 2b of the back cloth 2 is provided with a bulging portion P that extends beyond the outer edge of the outer cloth 1 that is superimposed, and the outer edge of the outer cloth 1 and the outer cloth 2 are aligned. Since this bulging part P cancels out the deviation due to the inner and outer diameter differences created by the three-dimensional curved surface formed in the chest and shoulder parts of the front body, the upper collar sewn on the part and An unstable load in the vertical direction is not applied to the front body, and a beautiful line of the entire collar from the upper collar to the lower collar is formed and maintained.

Furthermore, in the illustrated embodiment, when the back cloth 2 and the front cloth 1 are overlapped in a portion extending from the rear position (2c) of the shoulder of the back cloth 2 to the upper end of the armhole part (2d) , the outer edge on which is provided a retraction portion R which is to be located on the inner side than the outer edge of the table cloth 1, has been sewn in a state of aligning the outer edges of the front cloth 1 and the rear cloth 2, Although the inner and outer diameter difference is generated or increased between the front cloth 1 and the back cloth 2 due to the presence of the receding portion R, a load based on the inner and outer diameter difference generated is applied to the shoulder portion. In this way, more beautiful curved surfaces and lines can be obtained.

That is, due to the presence of the bulging portion P provided at the predetermined position of the backing cloth 2, unnatural / unstable loads due to the difference between the inner and outer diameters of the outer cloth 1 and the backing cloth 2 are eliminated. The natural roundness and good line of the shoulder formed by sewing the front and back bodies are already secured, but from the rear position (2c) of the back cloth 2 shoulder to the upper end of the armhole (2d) If a limited load based on the inner / outer diameter difference intentionally generated by the retreating part R is applied to the shoulder part, the natural roundness and line that are formed are moderately tightened, and the occurrence of wrinkles is prevented. Because of this, the outer shape and appearance of the shoulder become more beautiful.

  In this respect, a good outer shape and appearance appearance in the front body part are basically secured by eliminating the deviation caused by the inner and outer diameter differences between the front cloth 1 and the back cloth 2 and the unstable load based on this. However, by using the intentionally created inner / outer diameter difference and the calculated load based on this difference, it is possible to further improve the appearance and appearance of the well-formed and retained shape.

  In this way, a good outer shape can be obtained by sewing a normal outer surface cloth and a back cloth having a bulging part or a receding part at a predetermined position and giving an outer shape different from the outer surface cloth to form the best appearance. You can create a front body that ensures appearance, so if you create a jacket-type outerwear by a known or well-known method, such as sewing the front body, back body, or sleeve to form a pocket, etc. It is possible to easily realize and provide an uncon jacket that maintains a good outer shape and appearance without using any interlining or shoulder pads.

  Moreover, the production of the uncon jacket according to the present invention is simply made by providing a bulging part and a receding part at a predetermined position of the back cloth constituting the front body, and giving a different outer shape from the normal outer cloth. Mass production as ready-made clothing, considering that it is easy to mass-produce as ready-made clothing as well as custom-made clothing, and the man-hour and cost of the manufacturing process can be greatly reduced by completely eliminating the interlining and shoulder pads It can be said that it is suitable for.

  In addition, although the said embodiment demonstrated the structure and sewing method of the left front body, it cannot be overemphasized that it should be comprised similarly about the right front body.

It is a partially cutaway front view showing an example of an uncon jacket according to the present invention. It is a front view which shows an example of the front cloth and back cloth used in the ancon jacket according to the present invention. It is a front view which shows typically the inner and outer diameter difference which arises between the cloth located up and down in a curved surface part or a bending part. It is a front view which shows typically the unstable load based on an inner-outer diameter difference. It is a partially notched front view which shows an example of the conventional jacket type outerwear.

1 Front cloth for the front body 2 Back cloth for the front body 10 Front body 11 Look back (lower collar)
12 upper collar J ancon jacket P bulging part R receding part L cloth located under U cloth located over G G deviation based on inner and outer diameter difference

Claims (1)

A Ancon jacket uses no interlining and shoulder pads, front body is outside the table cloth normal contour, the contour edge of the table cloth superposed at the edge portion of the side combined with continuously provided a dial And a bulging portion that protrudes outward from the outer edge of the outer cloth overlapped at the neckline portion of the lining cloth of the front body. Bulges that protrude outward from the outer edge of the outer surface of the outer cloth overlapped at the armholes of the front are provided, respectively, and the back cloth of the front body extends from the rear position of the shoulder to the upper end of the armholes. When the back cloth and the front cloth are overlapped with each other, a receding portion is provided so that the outer edge of the back cloth is located inside the outer edge of the outer cloth. Sewn with the outer edges of the backing cloth aligned. Ancon jacket, characterized in that it consists.

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