JP4463722B2 - Shape memory processing method to animal hair material cloth or thread - Google Patents

Shape memory processing method to animal hair material cloth or thread Download PDF

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JP4463722B2
JP4463722B2 JP2005133208A JP2005133208A JP4463722B2 JP 4463722 B2 JP4463722 B2 JP 4463722B2 JP 2005133208 A JP2005133208 A JP 2005133208A JP 2005133208 A JP2005133208 A JP 2005133208A JP 4463722 B2 JP4463722 B2 JP 4463722B2
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雅子 篠塚
幸三 新井
哲雄 熊原
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IBARAKI PREFECTURAL GOVERNMENT
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Description

本発明は、獣毛(獣毛100%、あるいは獣毛以外に他の繊維が混合されたもの)の糸もしくは布の加工方法、その加工方法により作られる糸もしくは布、特に形状記憶糸もしくは形状記憶布に関する。   The present invention relates to a yarn or cloth processing method for animal hair (100% animal hair or other fibers mixed with animal hair), a yarn or cloth made by the processing method, particularly a shape memory yarn or shape. It relates to memory cloth.

特許文献1には、羊毛糸を編み込む編込工程と、この編込工程で得られた編地を還元処理する還元工程と、この還元工程で還元処理された前記編地を酸化処理する酸化工程と、この酸化工程で酸化処理された前記編地を解いて糸に戻す解編工程と、この解編工程で解編された糸に張力を与えて巻き取る巻取工程と、を具備する糸の加工方法、および巻取工程で張力が与えられて延ばされた糸によって布を形成する布形成工程と、この布形成工程によって形成された布に水分を付与し、布を収縮させる収縮工程とを具備する布の加工方法および製造された布に、熱硬化性樹脂あるいは熱可塑性樹脂等の樹脂を含浸させる樹脂加工工程を備える布の加工方法が記載されている。   In Patent Document 1, a knitting process of knitting wool yarn, a reduction process of reducing the knitted fabric obtained in the knitting process, and an oxidation process of oxidizing the knitted fabric reduced in the reduction process A yarn comprising: a knitting step of unwinding the knitted fabric oxidized in the oxidation step and returning the yarn to a yarn; and a winding step of winding the yarn knitted in the knitting step with tension applied thereto. Processing method, and a cloth forming step of forming a cloth with the yarn stretched by applying tension in the winding step, and a shrinking step of shrinking the cloth by applying moisture to the cloth formed by the cloth forming step And a fabric processing method comprising a resin processing step of impregnating a manufactured fabric with a resin such as a thermosetting resin or a thermoplastic resin.

特許文献2には、動物性繊維を過硫酸カリを用いて酸化エッチング処理し、動物性繊維を構成する蛋白質の疎水性部分をハイブリッド化コラーゲンを用いて親水性に改質し、この部分にジメルポリシキロキサンおよびヒドロキシベンゾトリアゾールを吸着させるようにした形状記憶動物性繊維およびその製造方法が記載されている。   In Patent Document 2, animal fibers are oxidatively etched using potassium persulfate, and the hydrophobic portion of the protein constituting the animal fibers is modified to be hydrophilic using hybridized collagen. A shape memory animal fiber adapted to adsorb melpolycycloxane and hydroxybenzotriazole and a method for producing the same are described.

特許文献3には、セルローズ系繊維および動物系繊維の少なくとも一方を主体とする繊維製品に対し形態安定化処理を行う際に用いる装置であって、上記繊維製品が装填される密閉容器と、上記密閉容器内に設けられ上記繊維製品に対し水分を付与する手段と、上記密閉容器内を所定の真空度に減圧する減圧手段と、上記密閉容器内に過熱蒸気を供給する蒸気供給手段と、上記密閉容器内を所定圧力に制御する圧力制御手段と、上記過熱蒸気が、所定温度で所定時間維持されるよう制御する処理制御手段とを備えた繊維製品の形態安定化処理装置が記載されている。   Patent Document 3 discloses an apparatus used when performing a shape stabilization process on a fiber product mainly composed of at least one of cellulose fiber and animal fiber, and includes a sealed container in which the fiber product is loaded; Means for providing moisture to the textile product provided in a sealed container; decompressing means for depressurizing the inside of the sealed container to a predetermined vacuum; steam supply means for supplying superheated steam into the sealed container; and There is described a fiber product shape stabilization processing apparatus including pressure control means for controlling the inside of a sealed container to a predetermined pressure and processing control means for controlling the superheated steam to be maintained at a predetermined temperature for a predetermined time. .

特開2000−8233号公報JP 2000-8233 A 特開平10−280281号公報JP-A-10-280281 特開平9−31831号公報JP-A-9-31831

獣毛を素材とする布もしくは糸に形状記憶加工を施すことによって、高度な縫製技術等がなくても、様々な立体的形状を保持した製品製造が可能となったり,型くずれの起こりにくい製品を提供できるようになる。そして、低価格品との競争のためには簡便にして短時間,低コストで獣毛素材に形状記憶加工を施せることが必要である。   By applying shape memory processing to fabric or thread made of animal hair, it is possible to manufacture products that retain various three-dimensional shapes without the need for advanced sewing techniques, or to produce products that are less likely to lose shape. Can be provided. In order to compete with low-priced products, it is necessary to be able to apply shape memory processing to animal hair materials in a simple and short time and at low cost.

本発明は、かかる点に鑑み簡便にして短時間,低コストで確実に獣毛素材に形状記憶加工を施すことの出来る加工方法およびこの加工方法によって製造される布および糸を提供することを目的とする。   An object of the present invention is to provide a processing method capable of performing shape memory processing on an animal hair material in a simple manner, in a short time and at a low cost, and a fabric and a thread manufactured by the processing method. And

本発明は、硫黄が2個結合(−SS−)したシスチン結合の解裂と再架橋結合生成によって不可逆的架橋結合を導入した獣毛を素材とすることを特徴とする布地もくしは糸を提供する。   The present invention provides a fabric comb or yarn characterized by using animal hair introduced with irreversible cross-linking by cleaving a cystine bond having two sulfur bonds (-SS-) and re-crosslinking formation. provide.

また、上述する布地において、アール形状(カール形状、バネ形状、螺旋形状等の表現があるが、以下、アール形状に統一して説明する。)、ひだ形状等の形状記憶加工の施された布地もしくは糸、或いはシワ形状、絞り形状、平面形状保持等任意の形状に記憶加工の施された布地を提供する。   Further, in the above-mentioned fabric, there is a round shape (there are expressions such as a curl shape, a spring shape, a spiral shape, etc., which will be described in the following unified description), and a fabric subjected to shape memory processing such as a pleat shape. Alternatively, a fabric that is subjected to memory processing in an arbitrary shape such as a yarn, a wrinkle shape, a drawn shape, or a planar shape is provided.

また、本発明は、硫黄が2個結合したシスチン架橋を有する獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸を、水蒸気雰囲気中、熱水あるいはアルカリ塩を添加した弱アルカリ性の熱水に浸して前記シスチン架橋の解裂と再架橋生成反応による不可逆的架橋結合導入処理を行い、ついで、当該再架橋生成反応による不可逆的架橋結合導入処理を行った布地もしくは糸を乾燥させる乾燥処理を行うことからなることを特徴とする、獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸の加工方法を提供する。   Further, the present invention provides a fabric or yarn made of animal hair having a cystine bridge having two cystine bridges bonded thereto, immersed in a weakly alkaline hot water to which hot water or an alkali salt is added in a water vapor atmosphere. An irreversible cross-linking introduction treatment by a re-crosslinking formation reaction and then a drying treatment for drying the fabric or yarn subjected to the irreversible cross-linking introduction treatment by the re-crosslinking formation reaction. Provided is a method for processing a fabric or yarn made of animal hair.

また、シスチンを有するジスルフィド架橋をデヒドロアラニンおよびシステインに解裂させ、ランチオニンへの再架橋生成反応、もしくはデヒドロアラニンをリジンとの反応によってリジノアラニンへの再架橋生成反応を行うことを特徴とする獣毛を素材とする、布地もしくは糸または紳士服の芯地の加工方法を提供する。   Further, animal hair characterized by cleaving a disulfide bridge having cystine into dehydroalanine and cysteine, and performing a recrosslinking reaction to lanthionine or a recrosslinking formation reaction to lysinoalanine by reaction of dehydroalanine with lysine A method of processing a fabric or yarn or a men's clothing interlining, made of

また、上述する布地もしくは糸をアール形状等任意の形状に固定し、水蒸気雰囲気中、熱水あるいはアルカリ塩を添加した弱アルカリ性の熱水に浸して所定時間保持し、ついで、乾燥処理を行うことによって形状記憶加工を施すことを特徴とする獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸または紳士服の芯地の加工方法を提供する。   In addition, the above-described fabric or yarn is fixed in an arbitrary shape such as a round shape, and is immersed in a weak alkaline hot water to which hot water or an alkali salt is added in a steam atmosphere, and then held for a predetermined time, and then a drying treatment is performed. A method for processing a fabric or yarn made of animal hair, or a men's clothing interlining, characterized by performing shape memory processing.

また、水に浸した後に、前記水蒸気雰囲気中、熱水あるいはアルカリ塩を添加した弱アルカリ性の熱水に浸して所定時間保持することを特徴とする獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸または紳士服の芯地の加工方法を提供する。   In addition, after dipping in water, it is immersed in hot water or weak alkaline hot water to which an alkali salt is added in the water vapor atmosphere and held for a predetermined time, or a fabric or thread made of animal hair, or men's clothing A method for processing an interlining is provided.

本発明の布地もしくは糸は、その組成中に存在する硫黄が2個結合(−SS−)したシスチン結合が、解裂と再架橋結合の生成によって不可逆的架橋結合となる性質を有する獣毛を素材としていること、そして、その加工にあたっては水蒸気雰囲気中、熱水あるいはアルカリ塩を添加した弱アルカリ性の熱水に浸してシスチン架橋の解裂および再架橋生成反応による不可逆的架橋結合導入処理を行うものであるので、簡便にして短時間,低コストで確実に獣毛素材に形状記憶加工を施すことができる。   The fabric or yarn of the present invention comprises animal hair having the property that a cystine bond in which two sulfur atoms present in the composition are bonded (-SS-) becomes an irreversible cross-linking bond by cleavage and generation of a re-cross-linking bond. It is used as a raw material, and in its processing, it is immersed in hot alkaline water with hot water or alkali salt in a steam atmosphere, and irreversible cross-linking introduction treatment is performed by cleavage of cystine cross-linking and re-cross-linking formation reaction. As a result, shape memory processing can be applied to animal hair material reliably and easily in a short time and at low cost.

羊毛に代表される獣毛は、ケラチンとよばれるタンパク質から成り、硫黄が2個結合した(−SS−)架橋構造を持つことで特徴づけられている。ケラチンは、ペプチドとよばれる高分子の鎖がバラバラにならないように、硫黄原子によって固く結ばれ、3次元に発達したネットワークを形成し、組織全体は強靱で弾力性に富んだものとなっている。この結合は図に示すように、ジスルフィド結合と呼ばれるシスチン架橋が主体をなしている。   Animal hair typified by wool is composed of a protein called keratin and is characterized by having a (-SS-) cross-linked structure in which two sulfur atoms are bonded. Keratin is tightly bound by sulfur atoms to form a three-dimensional network so that the chains of macromolecules called peptides do not fall apart, and the entire tissue is tough and elastic. . As shown in the figure, this bond is mainly composed of cystine bridges called disulfide bonds.

このように強固で安定な構造物に所定の変形を与えてその形に安定させるには、この結合を切断し、変形後の構造にとってより安定になるような場所で再結合させる必要がある。この場合、よく行われるのは、チオグリコール酸等の還元剤で処理し、一旦ジスルフィド結合を切り、変形後に構造が安定化するところでジスルフィド結合を再生させる方法で、酸化還元の可逆的反応である。図2にチオグリコール酸を用いた場合の反応機構を示す。毛髪のパーマネント処理や、スカートのプリーツ加工等がこの反応の応用例としてあげられる。   In order to give a predetermined deformation to such a strong and stable structure and stabilize it in its shape, it is necessary to cut this bond and reconnect it at a place where it becomes more stable for the structure after deformation. In this case, reversible oxidation-reduction reaction is often performed by treating with a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid, cutting the disulfide bond once, and regenerating the disulfide bond when the structure stabilizes after deformation. . FIG. 2 shows the reaction mechanism when thioglycolic acid is used. Permanent treatment of hair and pleating of skirts are examples of applications of this reaction.

本発明の実施例では上記反応機構とは異なる反応を応用し、架橋の架け換えを行っている。   In the examples of the present invention, cross-linking is performed by applying a reaction different from the above reaction mechanism.

これは、図1に示した獣毛タンパクに多量存在するジスルフィド結合(−SS−)が、熱水、或いは弱アルカリ性の水で処理するとその一部が新しい結合に変換され、ランチオニンやリジノアラニン結合をもつ架橋性アミノ酸が生成されることで、タンパク分子間に安定な架橋結合が形成される性質を利用したものである。   This is because disulfide bonds (-SS-), which are present in large amounts in the animal hair protein shown in Fig. 1, are converted into new bonds when treated with hot water or weak alkaline water, and lanthionine and lysinoalanine bonds are converted. It utilizes the property that stable crosslinks are formed between protein molecules by the production of crosslinkable amino acids.

図3に架橋の解裂と再架橋生成の反応式を示す。   FIG. 3 shows a reaction formula of the breaking of the crosslink and the formation of recrosslink.

シスチンから硫黄原子(S)一つがとれてデヒドロアラニンとシステインが生成し、さらに生成したデヒドロアラニンとシステインからランチオニンが生成する反応系と、生成したデヒドロアラニンが、近傍のリジン(獣毛の構成アミノ酸の一種)と反応して、リジノアラニンが生成する反応系があり、いずれも不可逆反応であるため、生成したランチオニンやリジノアラニン架橋は安定である。   One sulfur atom (S) is removed from cystine to produce dehydroalanine and cysteine, and the reaction system in which dehydroalanine and cysteine are produced to produce lanthionine, and the resulting dehydroalanine is a nearby lysine (a constituent amino acid of animal hair). 1), and lysinoalanine is produced, and both are irreversible reactions. Therefore, the produced lanthionine and lysinoalanine bridge are stable.

以上のように、本実施例の獣毛を素材とする糸もしくは布地または紳士服の芯地の加工方法は、硫黄が2個結合したシスチン架橋を有する獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸を、水蒸気雰囲気中、熱水あるいはアルカリ塩を添加した弱アルカリ性の熱水に浸して前記シスチン架橋の解裂および再架橋生成反応による不可逆的架橋結合導入処理を行い、ついで、当該再架橋生成反応による不可逆的架橋結合導入処理を行った布地もしくは糸を乾燥させる乾燥処理を行うことからなることを特徴とする。   As described above, the processing method of the yarn or fabric made of animal hair of this example or the interlining of men's clothing is made of a fabric or yarn made of animal hair having cystine bridges in which two sulfur atoms are combined, In a steam atmosphere, immerse in hot water or weakly alkaline hot water added with an alkali salt to perform irreversible cross-linking introduction treatment by cleavage of the cystine bridge and re-crosslinking formation reaction, and then irreversible by the re-crosslinking formation reaction. It is characterized by comprising performing a drying treatment for drying the fabric or yarn subjected to the mechanical cross-linking introduction treatment.

更に、この加工方法は、ジスルフィド架橋を有するシスチンをデヒドロアラニンおよびシステインに解裂させ、ランチオニンに再架橋生成反応を行う、もしくはリジンとの反応によってリジノアラニンに再架橋生成反応を行うことを特徴とする。   Furthermore, this processing method is characterized in that cystine having a disulfide bridge is cleaved into dehydroalanine and cysteine, and a recrosslinking formation reaction is performed on lanthionine, or a recrosslinking generation reaction is performed on lysinoalanine by reaction with lysine. .

さらに、上述する布地もしくは糸または芯地にアール形状等の任意の形状を固定し、水蒸気雰囲気中、熱水あるいはアルカリ塩を添加した弱アルカリ性の熱水に浸して所定時間保持し、ついで、乾燥処理を行うことによって形状記憶加工を施すことを特徴とする。   Furthermore, an arbitrary shape such as a round shape is fixed to the above-mentioned fabric or yarn or interlining, and is immersed in a weak alkaline hot water to which hot water or an alkali salt is added in a steam atmosphere, and is then held for a predetermined time, and then dried. It is characterized by performing shape memory processing by performing processing.

更に、この加工方法は、獣毛素材を水に浸して後に、前記水蒸気雰囲気中、熱水あるいはアルカリ塩を添加した弱アルカリ性の熱水に浸し、所定時間保持して処理することを特徴とする。   Further, this processing method is characterized in that after the animal hair material is immersed in water, it is immersed in weak alkaline hot water to which hot water or an alkali salt is added in the water vapor atmosphere, and is maintained for a predetermined time. .

そして、この加工方法により、硫黄が2個結合(−SS−)したシスチン結合を解裂させ再架橋結合生成によって不可逆的架橋結合とした獣毛を素材とすることを特徴とする布地もくしは糸または芯地が供給され、アール形状等任意の形状に記憶加工された布地もしくは糸または芯地が供給される。   And, by this processing method, the fabric comb is characterized by using animal hair that has been irreversibly cross-linked by generating a re-cross-linked bond by cleaving a cystine bond having two sulfur bonds (-SS-). Yarn or interlining is supplied, and cloth or yarn or interlining that has been memorized into an arbitrary shape such as a round shape is supplied.

この再架橋形成反応を利用し、予め一定の変形状態に置かれた獣毛素材から成る、或いは獣毛素材を含む布や糸,不織布等を、水蒸気雰囲気中、熱水或いは弱アルカリ性の熱水で処理し、望ましい形状に永久固定することが可能である。   Using this re-crosslinking formation reaction, cloths, yarns, nonwoven fabrics, etc. made of animal hair material previously placed in a certain deformation state or containing animal hair material are heated in hot water or weakly alkaline hot water. Can be fixed in a desired shape.

この反応は、前述の還元と酸化による反応と異なり、特に還元剤や酸化剤等の薬品を必要とせず、熱水のみ、或いは水に触媒程度のアルカリ塩を添加するだけで容易に進行する上、生成した架橋結合は安定であるため、処理後乾燥するだけの単純な工程で加工を完了することができる。   Unlike the reaction by reduction and oxidation described above, this reaction does not require a chemical such as a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, and proceeds easily only by hot water or by adding an alkali salt of a catalyst level to water. Since the generated cross-linked bond is stable, the processing can be completed by a simple process of drying after the treatment.

以下、実施例について説明する。   Examples will be described below.

獣毛素材の芯台(芯地の基布)下部を直径約1cm(得たいアール経によりφの大きさを変化させる)の棒を芯にして芯地の横方向に巻き取り、巻き終わりを、糸で縫い付ける等の方法でしっかり固定する。   Wrap the bottom of the core of the animal hair (the base fabric of the interlining) with a rod of about 1 cm in diameter (change the size of φ according to the desired radius) in the lateral direction of the interlining, and finish the winding Secure it firmly by sewing it with a thread.

次に沸騰した炭酸ナトリウム0.01%水溶液に、巻き取った部分(アール形状を付けたい部分)を浸漬し、沸騰点で50分間処理した。   Next, the wound part (part which wants to have a round shape) was immersed in the boiling 0.01% aqueous solution of sodium carbonate, and treated at the boiling point for 50 minutes.

なお、ここでの処理時間や添加する塩類の種類や濃度に関しては、芯台構成糸の組成(獣毛の混用比率)や太さ、織り密度や糊の量、また表地や裏地の種類等により、芯地としての適当なアール経や硬さが異なるため、上記以外の条件としてもよい。   The treatment time and the type and concentration of the salt to be added depend on the composition of the core base yarn (mixing ratio of animal hair) and thickness, weaving density and amount of glue, and the type of outer material and lining. Since the appropriate radius and hardness as the interlining are different, conditions other than the above may be used.

続いて、簡単に水ですすいだ後軽く水を切り、約70℃〜100℃の温度の乾燥室中釣り下げた状態で30分間乾燥させ完全に水分をとばした。   Subsequently, after rinsing with water, the water was lightly drained and dried in a drying chamber at a temperature of about 70 ° C. to 100 ° C. for 30 minutes to completely drain the water.

乾燥温度については単なる乾燥ではなく、高温水での処理から続く加工という観点からも重要なファクターであり、芯地の種類,表地の種類により異なり、要求されるアール経の大きさ,芯地の曲げ硬さに合わせた設定とする。   The drying temperature is an important factor from the standpoint of processing that continues from treatment with high-temperature water, not just drying. It depends on the type of interlining and the type of outer material, and the required size of the warp and interlining are required. Set according to the bending hardness.

乾燥後芯棒を取り除き、軽くアイロンをかけ形を整えて仕上げる。   After drying, remove the core rod and lightly iron it to finish the shape.

試料としてJIS染色堅牢度試験用添付白布(毛)ウール100%を採用した。当該試料を5×5cmの大きさに採集し、縁を約5mm残し周囲をミシンで縫い、試験片とした。更にこの試験片を緯糸方向になるべく水平を保ちながら、内経約10mmφに成るように端から巻いていき、巻き終わりを糸で縫い付けて止め、筒状試料を作成した。この筒状試料を50倍量の蒸留水中に浸漬し、沸騰点で4時間処理した後取り出し、形状を崩さないよう軽く水分を払い落とした後、80℃で30分乾燥させた。乾いた筒状試料から縫い付けておいた糸を取り除き加工を完了した。   A white cloth (wool) wool 100% for JIS dyeing fastness test was adopted as a sample. The sample was collected in a size of 5 × 5 cm, and the periphery was sewn with a sewing machine, leaving a margin of about 5 mm, to obtain a test piece. Further, while keeping this test piece as horizontal as possible in the weft direction, the test piece was wound from the end so as to have an inner diameter of about 10 mmφ, and the end of winding was sewn and stopped to prepare a cylindrical sample. This cylindrical sample was immersed in 50 times the amount of distilled water, treated for 4 hours at the boiling point, taken out, dried lightly so as not to break the shape, and dried at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes. The thread which had been sewn from the dried cylindrical sample was removed to complete the processing.

加工により試験片にアールが記憶加工され、両端からアール状に巻き込まれる形状が固定された。   The round shape was memorized into the test piece by the processing, and the shape that was wound in the round shape from both ends was fixed.

アイロンをかけると平らな試験片となるが、暫く放置しておくか、スチームを吹き付けると再びアール形状となった。   When the iron is applied, it becomes a flat test piece, but when it is left for a while or when steam is blown, it becomes a round shape again.

試料としてJIS染色堅牢度試験用添付白布(毛)ウール100%を採用した。当該試料を約10×10cmの大きさに採取し試験片とした。   A white cloth (wool) wool 100% for JIS dyeing fastness test was adopted as a sample. The said sample was extract | collected to the magnitude | size of about 10x10 cm, and it was set as the test piece.

試験片を手のひらで握り込むように小さくまとめ、輪ゴムで形を固定した。次に50倍量の蒸留水中に浸漬し、沸騰点で1時間処理した後取り出し、濾紙で軽く水分を拭い取った後、80℃で30分乾燥させた。乾燥後輪ゴムを取り除き加工を完了した。   The test pieces were put together so as to be grasped with the palm of the hand, and the shape was fixed with rubber bands. Next, it was immersed in 50 times the amount of distilled water, treated for 1 hour at the boiling point, taken out, wiped lightly with a filter paper, and then dried at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes. The dry rubber band was removed to complete the processing.

試験片に小さくまとめた時にできたランダムなしわがそのまま形状記憶され、しわ加工ができた。   Random wrinkles that were created when the test pieces were put together into small shapes were memorized as they were and wrinkled.

試料としてJIS染色堅牢度試験用添付白布(毛)ウール100%を採用した。当該試料を約10×10cmの大きさに採取し試験片とした。   A white cloth (wool) wool 100% for JIS dyeing fastness test was adopted as a sample. The said sample was extract | collected to the magnitude | size of about 10x10 cm, and it was set as the test piece.

試験片の中央部分を直径約3.5cmの円状に糸で縫い、縫い終わりを引っ張り、絞りの形状とし、絞り口に2,3回糸を巻き付けた後、糸止めをした。次に50倍量の蒸留水中に浸漬し、沸騰点で1時間処理した後取り出し、濾紙で軽く水分を拭い取った後、80℃で30分乾燥させた。乾燥後縫いつけた糸を外して、加工を完了した。   The center part of the test piece was sewn into a circle having a diameter of about 3.5 cm with a thread, and the end of the sewing was pulled to form a squeeze shape. Next, it was immersed in 50 times the amount of distilled water, treated for 1 hour at the boiling point, taken out, wiped lightly with a filter paper, and then dried at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes. After drying, the thread sewn was removed, and the processing was completed.

試験片に絞りの形状がそのまま固定され立体的な絞り模様が形状記憶された。   The shape of the diaphragm was fixed as it was on the test piece, and a three-dimensional diaphragm pattern was memorized.

ウール100%の試料糸50cmを60℃の0.01%炭酸ナトリウム水溶液中に約3分間浸漬し、完全に濡れた状態になったのを確認し、約2mmφの太さの竹籤に巻き付け、巻き始めと終わりを輪ゴムで止め固定した。次に蒸気の上がった蒸し器の中へ置き、1時間処理をした。処理後簡単に水洗し、濾紙にて余分な水分を除去した後、80℃で30分乾燥させた。乾燥後輪ゴムを取り除き加工を完了した。   50cm sample yarn of 100% wool was immersed in a 0.01% sodium carbonate aqueous solution at 60 ° C for about 3 minutes, confirmed to be completely wet, wrapped around a bamboo basket with a thickness of about 2mmφ, The winding start and end were fixed with rubber bands. Next, it was placed in a steamer with steam and processed for 1 hour. After the treatment, it was simply washed with water, excess water was removed with a filter paper, and then dried at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes. The dry rubber band was removed to complete the processing.

バネ形状が記憶され伸び縮みする形状記億糸ができた。   The shape memory thread that memorized the spring shape and expanded and contracted was made.

獣毛100%糸の試料糸4本を束ね20cmの長さで互いに結び、束ねた4本を同時に約10mmφの太さのガラス棒に巻き付け、巻き始めと巻き終わりをガラス棒に結び付けて固定した。これを水に浸漬し、沸騰点で50分処理した後、引き上げて簡単に水を振り払い、80℃で30分乾燥した。乾燥した試験糸からガラス棒を取り、加工を完了した。   Four sample yarns of 100% animal hair were bundled and tied together in a length of 20 cm, and the four bundles were simultaneously wound around a glass rod having a thickness of about 10 mmφ, and the beginning and end of winding were tied to the glass rod and fixed. . This was immersed in water, treated at the boiling point for 50 minutes, then pulled up, easily shaken off the water, and dried at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes. A glass rod was taken from the dried test yarn to complete the processing.

試験糸4本にそれぞれアール形状が記憶された。   The R shape was memorized in each of the four test yarns.

獣毛からなる織物,編み物,不織布等の布、あるいはアール付けを行う方向(経糸方向或いは緯糸方向)の糸に獣毛が含まれる(獣毛の混用率は30%以上であることが望ましい)素材からなる織物、または獣毛が含まれる(獣毛の混用率は30%以上であることが望ましい)編み物や不織布等の布へのアール付け方法は、下記の通りである。   Animal hair is contained in fabrics made of animal hair, knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics, etc., or yarns in the direction in which they are rounded (warp direction or weft direction) (the mixing ratio of animal hair is preferably 30% or more) The method of attaching the knitted fabric or the nonwoven fabric to the fabric including the woven fabric made of the material or animal hair (the mixing rate of the animal hair is preferably 30% or more) is as follows.

アール付けしたい方向に、試料の布を巻き取る。この場合、続く処理で型崩れを防ぐためにも、棒の様なものを芯にして端から巻き取っていき、巻き終わりは糸で縫い付ける等の方法でしっかりと固定する。通常巻取り時のアールは、仕上がりのアールより小さくとる必要があり、巻取り時のアールが小さいほど、仕上がりのアールも小さくなり、形状記憶加工の効果も高くなる。   Wind the sample cloth in the direction you want to apply the curve. In this case, in order to prevent the loss of shape in the subsequent processing, a rod-like object is taken up from the end, and the end of winding is firmly fixed by a method such as sewing with a thread. The rounding at the time of normal winding needs to be smaller than the rounding at the finish. The smaller the rounding at the time of winding, the smaller the rounding at the finish and the higher the effect of shape memory processing.

次に巻き取って筒状になった試料の全部、あるいはアール付けを行いたい部分のみを、熱水(およそ70℃〜沸騰点)中へ投入し、およそ10分〜6時間の適当な時間で処理する。この場合、処理時間が長いほど巻取り時のアールの大きさに近い仕上がりになる。また、処理温度が高いほど処理時間を短くすることができる。   Next, all of the sample wound up into a cylindrical shape or only the portion to be rounded is put into hot water (approximately 70 ° C. to the boiling point), and in an appropriate time of approximately 10 minutes to 6 hours. To process. In this case, the longer the processing time, the closer to the size of the radius at the time of winding. In addition, the processing time can be shortened as the processing temperature increases.

処理後の試料は、室温〜約110℃の温度で乾燥させる。自然乾燥,温風乾燥機使用等いずれで乾燥する場合でも、完全に水分をとばすようにする。また、形状がきれいに保持できるなら、あらかじめ芯棒を取り除いてから乾燃せることも可能である。   The treated sample is dried at a temperature of room temperature to about 110 ° C. Whether it is dried naturally or using a warm air dryer, completely remove moisture. Also, if the shape can be kept clean, it is possible to dry burn after removing the core rod in advance.

乾燥後、芯棒を取り除いて処理を終了する。   After drying, the core rod is removed and the process is terminated.

仕上がりのアール形状は処理温度や処理時間,乾燥温度、さらに試料の状況(厚さ,大きさ,硬さ,種類,素材に含まれる獣毛の種類や割合、構成糸の太さ等)等で変化する。緩いアールになることや、幾重かのカール形状ができることもある。   The finished round shape depends on the processing temperature, processing time, drying temperature, and sample condition (thickness, size, hardness, type, type and proportion of animal hair contained in the material, thickness of the constituent yarn, etc.), etc. Change. It can be loose and can have several curls.

試料が織物や編物の場合、処理後仕上がりの形状を保つためには目寄れ等構成糸が動くことを避けたほうが良い。そこで、可能であれば処理前に試料の周辺を縫ったり、捨て縫いをして糸が動かないようにすることが望ましい。   In the case where the sample is a woven fabric or a knitted fabric, it is better to avoid the movement of the constituent yarns such as necking in order to keep the finished shape after the treatment. Therefore, if possible, it is desirable to sew the periphery of the specimen before processing, or to sew and prevent the thread from moving.

実施例7と同様の試料について、同様の方法で布を巻き取って固定する。   About the sample similar to Example 7, a cloth is wound up and fixed by the same method.

次に巻き取って筒状になった試料の全部或いはアール付けを行いたい部分を、水に浸漬するなどして充分に濡らす。この時試料を濡れやすくするために水の温度を沸騰点付近まで上げても問題無い。試料が充分に水で濡れたら取り出し、蒸し箱等、充分な蒸気量と約70℃以上の温度の得られる装置を用いて、スチーム処理を10分以上行う。   Next, the whole sample wound up into a cylindrical shape or the portion to be rounded is sufficiently wetted by immersing it in water. At this time, there is no problem even if the temperature of the water is raised to near the boiling point in order to make the sample easy to wet. When the sample is sufficiently wet with water, the sample is taken out, and steaming is performed for 10 minutes or more using an apparatus capable of obtaining a sufficient amount of steam and a temperature of about 70 ° C. or higher, such as a steaming box.

スチーム処理後、乾燥工程以降の処理を、実施例7と同様に行い加工を完了する。   After the steam process, the processes after the drying process are performed in the same manner as in Example 7 to complete the processing.

実施例7と同様の試料について、同様の方法で布を巻き取って固定する。   About the sample similar to Example 7, a cloth is wound up and fixed by the same method.

次に巻き取って筒状になった試料の全部、あるいはアール付けを行いたい部分のみを、炭酸ナトリウム等のアルカリ塩を溶かしpH8〜10.5ぐらいの弱アルカリに調製(例えば炭酸ナトリウムの場合は0.01%水溶液に調製)し、約60℃〜沸騰点に加熱した水溶液へ投入して、およそ5分〜6時間の適当な時間で処理する。この場合の水溶液の浴比は、試料の加工を行おうとする部分が、処理が終了するまでの間水溶液中に浸漬しうる量であれば、小さくても良い。   Next, all of the sample wound up into a cylindrical shape, or only the part to be rounded, is prepared in a weak alkali having a pH of about 8 to 10.5 by dissolving an alkali salt such as sodium carbonate (for example, in the case of sodium carbonate). 0.01% aqueous solution), put into an aqueous solution heated to about 60 ° C. to the boiling point, and processed for an appropriate time of about 5 minutes to 6 hours. The bath ratio of the aqueous solution in this case may be small as long as the portion where the sample is to be processed can be immersed in the aqueous solution until the processing is completed.

処理後試料を取り出し、簡単に水洗した後、乾燥工程以降の処理を実施例7と同様に行い、加工を完了する。   The sample after the treatment is taken out and washed easily with water, and then the processing after the drying step is performed in the same manner as in Example 7 to complete the processing.

実施例7と同様の試料についてについて、同様の方法で布を巻き取って固定する。   About the sample similar to Example 7, a cloth is wound up and fixed by the same method.

次に巻き取って筒状になった試料の全部、あるいはアール付けを行いたい部分を、炭酸ナトリウム等のアルカリ塩を溶かしpH8〜10.5ぐらいの弱アルカリに調製(例えば炭酸ナトリウムの場合は0.01%水溶液に調製)した水に浸漬するなどして充分に濡らす。この時試料を濡れやすくするために水溶液の温度を沸騰点付近まで上げても問題無い。試料が充分に水溶液で濡れたら蒸し箱等、充分な蒸気量と約70℃以上の温度の得られる装置を用いて、スチーム処理を10分以上行う。   Next, the whole sample rolled up or the part to be rounded is prepared in a weak alkali having a pH of about 8 to 10.5 by dissolving an alkali salt such as sodium carbonate (for example, 0 for sodium carbonate). Wet it sufficiently by immersing it in water prepared in a 01% aqueous solution. At this time, there is no problem even if the temperature of the aqueous solution is raised to near the boiling point in order to make the sample easy to wet. When the sample is sufficiently wet with the aqueous solution, steam treatment is performed for 10 minutes or more using an apparatus capable of obtaining a sufficient amount of steam and a temperature of about 70 ° C. or higher, such as a steaming box.

スチーム処理後試料を取り出し、簡単に水洗した後、乾燥工程以降の処理を、実施例7と同様に行い加工を完了する。   After the steam treatment, the sample is taken out and washed easily with water, and then the processing after the drying step is performed in the same manner as in Example 7 to complete the processing.

羊毛等の獣毛を30%以上(50%以上が望ましい。)含有した糸への加工で、螺旋形状やクリンプ形状,結び目形状,折り畳み形状等を記憶させる方法は下記の通りである。   A method for storing a spiral shape, a crimp shape, a knot shape, a folded shape, etc. by processing into a yarn containing animal hair such as wool 30% or more (preferably 50% or more) is as follows.

試料の糸を棒等を芯にして巻き付けたり、結び目を作る、クリップやゴムで止める等、続く加工処理中に形状が保たれる方法で、記憶させたい形状に固定する。螺旋やクリンプ形状の記憶加工では、できるだけ細い棒を芯にして巻き付けた方が形状が記憶されやすい。直径が1cmφ以下の芯を使用することが望ましい。   The sample thread is fixed to the shape to be memorized by a method in which the shape is maintained during subsequent processing, such as winding the sample thread around a rod or the like, tying a knot, or fastening with a clip or rubber. In memory processing of a spiral or crimp shape, the shape is more easily memorized when wound with a stick as thin as possible. It is desirable to use a core having a diameter of 1 cmφ or less.

記憶させたい形状に固定した試料の全部、あるいはアール付けを行いたい部分を、熱水(およそ70℃〜沸騰点)中へ投入し、およそ10分〜6時間の適当な時間で処理する。この場合、処理時間がある程度長いほど処理前に固定した形状に近い仕上がりになる。また、処理温度が高いほど処理時間を短くすることができる。   All of the sample fixed in the shape to be memorized or the portion to be rounded is put into hot water (approximately 70 ° C. to boiling point) and processed for an appropriate time of approximately 10 minutes to 6 hours. In this case, the longer the processing time, the closer to the shape fixed before the processing. In addition, the processing time can be shortened as the processing temperature increases.

処理後の試料は、室温〜約110℃の温度で乾燥させる。自然乾燥,温風乾燥機使用等いずれで乾燥する場合でも、完全に水分をとばすようにする。また、形状がきれいに保持できるなら、芯棒やクリップ等形状を保つために使用していた物を取り除いてから乾燥させても良い。   The treated sample is dried at a temperature of room temperature to about 110 ° C. Whether it is dried naturally or using a warm air dryer, completely remove moisture. Also, if the shape can be kept clean, it may be dried after removing the material used to maintain the shape such as the core rod and clip.

乾燥後、形状の固定のために用いた物を試料から取り除いて処理を終了する。   After drying, the material used for fixing the shape is removed from the sample, and the process ends.

仕上がりの形状は処理温度や処理時間,乾燥温度、さらに試料の状況(太さ,撚り数,硬さ,組成、等)等で変化する。また糸の撚りが戻るなどの現象で加工後の仕上がりの形状が保てないこともある。   The finished shape varies depending on the processing temperature, processing time, drying temperature, and the condition of the sample (thickness, number of twists, hardness, composition, etc.). In addition, the finished shape after processing may not be maintained due to a phenomenon such as unwinding of the yarn.

実施例11と同様の試料を用いて形状記憶加工を行う方法で、加工前に行う試料の形状の固定方法も同様の方法で行う。   The method of shape memory processing is performed using the same sample as in Example 11, and the method of fixing the shape of the sample before processing is also performed by the same method.

次に試料の全部、あるいは形状記憶加工を施したい部分を、水に浸漬するなどして充分に濡らす。この時試料を濡れやすくするために水の温度を沸騰点付近まで上げても問題無い。試料が充分に水で濡れたら取り出し、蒸し箱等、充分な蒸気量と約70℃以上の温度の得られる装置を用いて、スチーム処理を10分以上行う。   Next, the entire sample or the portion to be subjected to shape memory processing is sufficiently wetted by immersing it in water. At this time, there is no problem even if the temperature of the water is raised to near the boiling point in order to make the sample easy to wet. When the sample is sufficiently wet with water, the sample is taken out, and steaming is performed for 10 minutes or more using an apparatus capable of obtaining a sufficient amount of steam and a temperature of about 70 ° C. or higher, such as a steaming box.

スチーム処理後、実施例11と同じ方法で乾燥以降の操作を行い、加工を完了する。   After the steam treatment, operations after drying are performed in the same manner as in Example 11 to complete the processing.

実施例11と同様の試料を用いて形状記憶加工を行う方法で、加工前に行う試料の形状の固定方法も同様の方法で行う。   The method of shape memory processing is performed using the same sample as in Example 11, and the method of fixing the shape of the sample before processing is also performed by the same method.

次に記憶させたい形状に固定した試料の全部、あるいは形状の記憶を行いたい部分を、炭酸ナトリウム等のアルカリ塩を溶かしpH8〜10.5ぐらいの弱アルカリに調製(例えば炭酸ナトリウムの場合は0.01%水溶液に調製)し、約60℃〜沸騰点に加熱した水溶液へ投入して、およそ5分〜6時間の適当な時間で処理する。この場合の水溶液の浴比は、試料の加工を行おうとする部分が、処理が終了するまでの間水溶液中に浸漬しうる量であれば、小さくても良い。この場合、処理時間がある程度長いほうがより強固な形状記憶となる。また、処理温度が高いほど処理時間は短くすることができる。   Next, all of the sample fixed in the shape to be memorized or the part where the shape is to be memorized is prepared in a weak alkali having a pH of about 8 to 10.5 by dissolving an alkali salt such as sodium carbonate (for example, 0 for sodium carbonate). 0.01% aqueous solution), put into an aqueous solution heated to about 60 ° C. to the boiling point, and processed for an appropriate time of about 5 minutes to 6 hours. The bath ratio of the aqueous solution in this case may be small as long as the portion where the sample is to be processed can be immersed in the aqueous solution until the processing is completed. In this case, the longer the processing time, the stronger the shape memory. In addition, the processing time can be shortened as the processing temperature increases.

処理後試料を取り出し、簡単に水洗した後、乾燥工程以降の処理を、実施例11と同様に行い加工を完了する。   After the treatment, the sample is taken out and washed easily with water, and then the processing after the drying step is performed in the same manner as in Example 11 to complete the processing.

実施例11と同様の試料を用いて形状記憶加工を行う方法で、加工前に行う試料の形状の固定方法も同様の方法で行う。   The method of shape memory processing is performed using the same sample as in Example 11, and the method of fixing the shape of the sample before processing is also performed by the same method.

次に記憶させたい形状に固定した試料の全部、あるいは形状記憶を行いたい部分を、炭酸ナトリウム等のアルカリ塩を溶かしpH8〜10.5ぐらいの弱アルカリに調製(例えば炭酸ナトリウムの場合は0.01%水溶液に調製)した水に浸漬するなどして充分に濡らす。この時試料を濡れやすくするために水溶液の温度を沸騰点付近まで上げても問題無い。試料が充分に水溶液で濡れたら蒸し箱等、充分な蒸気量と約70℃以上の温度の得られる装置を用いて、スチーム処理を10分以上行う。   Next, all of the sample fixed in the shape to be memorized or the portion to be memorized is prepared in a weak alkali having a pH of about 8 to 10.5 by dissolving an alkali salt such as sodium carbonate (for example, 0. 0 in the case of sodium carbonate). Wet it sufficiently by immersing it in water prepared in a 01% aqueous solution. At this time, there is no problem even if the temperature of the aqueous solution is raised to near the boiling point in order to make the sample easy to wet. When the sample is sufficiently wet with the aqueous solution, steam treatment is performed for 10 minutes or more using an apparatus capable of obtaining a sufficient amount of steam and a temperature of about 70 ° C. or higher, such as a steaming box.

スチーム処理後試料を取り出し、簡単に水洗した後、乾燥工程以降の処理を、実施例11と同様に行い加工を完了する。   After the steam treatment, the sample is taken out, washed easily with water, and then the processing after the drying step is performed in the same manner as in Example 11 to complete the processing.

獣毛からなる織物,編み物,不織布等の布、あるいは獣毛が含まれる素材からなる織物、または獣毛が含まれる編み物や不織布等の布へ、任意の形状を形成させ、その形状を記憶させる加工方法は、下記の通りである。   Arbitrary shapes are formed on fabrics made of animal hair, knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics, or fabrics made of materials containing animal hair, or knitted fabrics made of animal hair, or non-woven fabrics, and the shapes are memorized. The processing method is as follows.

試料の布ヘシワを寄せる,つまむ,折り目を付ける,絞る,平面状態を保持する等任意の形状を作り、加工中もその形状が維持できる様に、糸,クリップ,輸ゴム,伸子等で固定する。   Create an arbitrary shape such as pulling, pinching, creasing, squeezing, holding the flat state of the sample cloth, and fixing with a thread, clip, rubber band, extender, etc. so that the shape can be maintained during processing .

次に任意の形状を固定した試料の全部、あるいは形状記憶加工を施したい部分を、熱水(およそ70℃〜沸騰点)中へ投入し、およそ10分〜6時間の適当な時間で処理する。この場合、処理時間が長いほど形状記憶効果が高くなる。また、処理温度が高いほど形状記憶効果は高くなり、処理時間も短くすることができる。   Next, the entire sample with an arbitrary shape fixed, or the portion to be subjected to shape memory processing, is poured into hot water (approximately 70 ° C. to the boiling point) and processed for an appropriate time of approximately 10 minutes to 6 hours. . In this case, the longer the processing time, the higher the shape memory effect. Further, the higher the processing temperature, the higher the shape memory effect and the processing time can be shortened.

処理後の試料は、室温〜約110℃の温度で乾燥させる。自然乾燥,温風乾燥機使用等いずれで乾燥する場合でも、試料から完全に水分をとばすようにする。また、形状がきれいに保持できるなら、糸,クリップ等形状の固定に使用したものや道具を取り除いてから乾燥させることも可能である。   The treated sample is dried at a temperature of room temperature to about 110 ° C. Whether drying by natural drying or using a warm air dryer, completely remove moisture from the sample. Also, if the shape can be kept clean, it is possible to dry after removing the material and tools used for fixing the shape, such as threads and clips.

乾燥後、固定用の糸,クリップ等を取り除き処理を完了する。   After drying, the fixing thread, clip, etc. are removed to complete the process.

仕上がりの形状記憶の効果は処理温度や処理時間,乾燥温度、さらに試料の状況(厚さ,大きさ,硬さ,種類,素材に含まれる獣毛の種類や割合,構成糸の太さ等)等で変化する。   The effect of the finished shape memory is the processing temperature, processing time, drying temperature, and the condition of the sample (thickness, size, hardness, type, type and proportion of animal hair contained in the material, thickness of the constituent yarn, etc.) Etc.

試料が織物や編物の場合、処理後仕上がりの形状を保つためには目寄れ等構成糸が動くことを避けたほうが良い。そこで、可能であれば処理前に試料の周辺を縫ったり、捨て縫いをして糸が動かないようにすると,より仕上がり時の記憶形状に近い状態での形状保持が可能となる。   In the case where the sample is a woven fabric or a knitted fabric, it is better to avoid the movement of the constituent yarns such as necking in order to keep the finished shape after the treatment. Therefore, if possible, if the periphery of the sample is sewn before processing or if the thread is not moved by sewing, the shape can be maintained in a state closer to the memory shape at the finish.

実施例15と同様の試料について、同様の方法で布への任意の形状を形成し固定する。   About the sample similar to Example 15, the arbitrary shape is formed and fixed to cloth by the same method.

次に試料の全部或いは形状の記憶をさせたい部分を、水に浸漬するなどして充分に濡らす。この時試料を濡れやすくするために水の温度を沸騰点付近まで上げても問題無い。試料が充分に水で濡れたら取り出し、蒸し箱等、充分な蒸気量と約70℃以上の温度の得られる装置を用いて、スチーム処理を10分以上行う。   Next, the entire sample or the portion to be memorized in the shape is sufficiently wetted by immersing it in water. At this time, there is no problem even if the temperature of the water is raised to near the boiling point in order to make the sample easy to wet. When the sample is sufficiently wet with water, the sample is taken out, and steaming is performed for 10 minutes or more using an apparatus capable of obtaining a sufficient amount of steam and a temperature of about 70 ° C. or higher, such as a steaming box.

スチーム処理後、乾燥工程以降の処理を、実施例15と同様に行い加工を完了する。   After the steam process, the processes after the drying process are performed in the same manner as in Example 15 to complete the processing.

実施例15と同様の試料について、同様の方法で布への任意の形状を形成し固定する。 次に試料の全部、あるいは形状の記憶をさせたい部分を、炭酸ナトリウム等のアルカリ塩を溶かしpH8〜10.5ぐらいの弱アルカリに調製(例えば炭酸ナトリウムの場合は0.01%水溶液に調製)し、約60℃〜沸騰点に加熱した水溶液へ投入して、およそ5分〜6時間の適当な時間で処理する。この場合の水溶液の浴比は、試料の加工を行おうとする部分が、処理が終了するまでの間水溶液中に浸漬しうる量であれば、小さくても良い。   About the sample similar to Example 15, the arbitrary shape is formed and fixed to cloth by the same method. Next, prepare the whole sample or the part you want to memorize the shape in a weak alkali of pH 8 to 10.5 by dissolving an alkali salt such as sodium carbonate (for example, in the case of sodium carbonate, prepare a 0.01% aqueous solution). Then, it is put into an aqueous solution heated to about 60 ° C. to the boiling point, and is treated for an appropriate time of about 5 minutes to 6 hours. The bath ratio of the aqueous solution in this case may be small as long as the portion where the sample is to be processed can be immersed in the aqueous solution until the processing is completed.

処理後試料を取り出し、簡単に水洗した後、乾燥工程以降の処理を実施例15と同様に行い、加工を完了する。   After the treatment, the sample is taken out and washed easily with water, and then the treatment after the drying step is performed in the same manner as in Example 15 to complete the processing.

実施例15と同様の試料についてについて、同様の方法で布への任意の形状を形成し固定する。   About the sample similar to Example 15, arbitrary shapes to cloth are formed and fixed by the same method.

次に試料の全部、あるいは形状の記憶をさせたい部分を、炭酸ナトリウム等のアルカリ塩を溶かしpH8〜10.5ぐらいの弱アルカリに調製(例えば炭酸ナトリウムの場合は0.01%水溶液に調製)した水に浸漬するなどして充分に濡らす。この時試料を濡れやすくするために水溶液の温度を沸騰点付近まで上げても問題無い。試料が充分に水溶液で濡れたら蒸し箱等、充分な蒸気量と約70℃以上の温度が得られる装置を用いて、スチーム処理を10分以上行う。   Next, prepare the whole sample or the part you want to memorize the shape in a weak alkali of pH 8 to 10.5 by dissolving an alkali salt such as sodium carbonate (for example, in the case of sodium carbonate, prepare a 0.01% aqueous solution). Soak it in water and soak it thoroughly. At this time, there is no problem even if the temperature of the aqueous solution is raised to near the boiling point in order to make the sample easy to wet. When the sample is sufficiently wet with the aqueous solution, the steam treatment is performed for 10 minutes or more using an apparatus capable of obtaining a sufficient amount of steam and a temperature of about 70 ° C. or higher, such as a steaming box.

スチーム処理後試料を取り出し、簡単に水洗した後、乾燥工程以降の処理を、実施例15と同様に行い加工を完了する。   After the steam treatment, the sample is taken out, washed easily with water, and then the processing after the drying step is performed in the same manner as in Example 15 to complete the processing.

次にこれらの実施例による形状記憶加工による効果を実例によって示す。図4は布へのアール付け加工についての実例を示し、図4(a)はたて糸が綿/ウール混紡、よこ糸が獣毛100%素材の織物への実施例7による形状記憶加工後の試験片についての例であり、図4(b)はウール100%素材の布への形状記憶加工後の試験片についての例である。図4(a)、(b)に示すように、アイロンの後に放置あるいはスチーム雰囲気においての試験片は形状記憶されたカール形状を確実に維持することが判る。   Next, the effect of the shape memory processing according to these embodiments will be shown by way of example. FIG. 4 shows an actual example of the process of applying a round to a cloth, and FIG. 4 (a) shows a test piece after shape memory processing according to Example 7 in which a warp yarn is a cotton / wool blend and the weft yarn is 100% animal hair. FIG. 4B is an example of a test piece after shape memory processing to a cloth made of 100% wool. As shown in FIGS. 4 (a) and 4 (b), it can be seen that the test piece left after ironing or in a steam atmosphere reliably maintains the curl shape stored in shape.

図5に形状記憶加工された紳士服の芯地の写真を示す。(a)は芯地表側からの外観写真であり、(b)は芯地裏側からの裾部分の外観写真である。アールがしっかりとついていることが判る。なお、図5(b)において、アールを見やすくするために白線を誇張して引いてある。   FIG. 5 shows a photograph of the interlining of men's clothing that has undergone shape memory processing. (A) is an external appearance photograph from the interlining surface side, (b) is an external appearance photograph of the hem part from the interlining back side. You can see that Earl is firmly attached. In FIG. 5B, the white line is exaggerated to make it easier to see the curve.

表1に糸及び布への形状記憶加工条件を例示する。   Table 1 illustrates the shape memory processing conditions for yarn and cloth.

Figure 0004463722
Figure 0004463722

−SS−架橋の分布状態を示す図。The figure which shows the distribution state of -SS- bridge | crosslinking. ジスルフィド結合の酸化還元機構を示す図。The figure which shows the oxidation-reduction mechanism of a disulfide bond. ジスルフィド結合の解裂と架橋結合生成の反応式を示す図。The figure which shows the reaction formula of the decomposition | disassembly of a disulfide bond and bridge | crosslinking bond production | generation. 本実施例の効果を示す図で、図4(a)実施例7の効果を示し、図4(b)は実施例2の効果を示す図。FIGS. 4A and 4B show the effects of the present embodiment, and FIG. 4A shows the effects of the seventh embodiment. FIG. 4B shows the effects of the second embodiment. 本実施例の効果を示す写真。図5(a)芯地表側からの外観写真を示し、図5(b)は芯地裏側からの裾部分の外観写真。The photograph which shows the effect of a present Example. FIG. 5A shows an appearance photograph from the front side of the interlining, and FIG. 5B is an appearance photograph of the hem portion from the interlining back side.

Claims (8)

硫黄が2個結合したシスチン結合(−SS−)を有する獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸を固定手段を用いて任意の形状に、或いは所定の形状の固形体に固定し、熱水中、もしくはアルカリ塩を添加した弱アルカリ性の熱水中、もしくは熱水あるいは弱アルカリ性の熱水、又は水あるいは弱アルカリ水に浸漬した後の水蒸気雰囲気中、もしくは水蒸気雰囲気中で所定の条件のもとで処理することにより、シスチン結合を有するジスルフィド結合をデヒドロアラニンおよびシステインに解裂させ、ランチオニンへの再架橋生成反応、もしくはデヒドロアラニンのリジンとの反応によるリジノアラニンへの再架橋生成反応による不可逆的架橋結合(−S−)を導入する反応の結果、布地もしくは糸に前記固定したことに依存した所定の形状を記憶させ、ついで乾燥処理後その固定手段を取り除くことで、所定形状が記憶加工された布地や糸を得ることを特徴とする、獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸への加工方法。 A fabric or thread made of animal hair having a cystine bond (-SS-) in which two sulfur atoms are bonded is fixed to an arbitrary shape using a fixing means, or to a solid body of a predetermined shape, Alternatively, weak alkaline hot water to which an alkali salt is added, or hot water or weak alkaline hot water, or a water vapor atmosphere after being immersed in water or weak alkaline water, or under a predetermined condition in a water vapor atmosphere By treatment, the disulfide bond having a cystine bond is cleaved into dehydroalanine and cysteine, and the re-crosslinking formation reaction to lanthionine or the re-crosslinking formation reaction to lysinoalanine by the reaction of dehydroalanine with lysine. As a result of the reaction to introduce (-S-), a predetermined shape depending on the fixing to the fabric or yarn is stored. Was then dried processed by removing the fixing means, and obtaining a fabric or yarn which a predetermined shape is stored processed, the processing method to the fabric or yarn is a material of animal hair. 請求項1において、獣毛繊維中のシスチン結合(−SS−)が開裂し、ランチオニンもしくはリジノアラニンが生成する過程で、シスチン結合で2個あった硫黄原子の1個が取れて状態で再架橋した結合(−S−)となる反応中、事前に布地や糸に対して形成したアール形状やしわや織り目等の形状をそのまま維持可能な固定方法を実施することを特徴とする、獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸の加工方法。 In Claim 1 , in the process in which cystine bond (-SS-) in animal hair fiber is cleaved and lanthionine or lysinoalanine is formed, one of the two sulfur atoms present in the cystine bond is removed and recrosslinked. The animal hair is characterized by performing a fixing method capable of maintaining the shape such as the round shape, the wrinkles, and the texture formed in advance on the fabric and yarn during the reaction to be bonded (-S-). The processing method of the fabric or thread. 請求項1において、素材を水中もしくは弱アルカリ水中に浸漬し、およそ60℃〜沸騰点で処理した後、乾燥工程を経て、ランチオニン及びリジノアラニンを生成させることにより、形状を記憶させることを特徴とする、獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸の加工方法。The shape is memorized in claim 1, wherein the material is immersed in water or weak alkaline water, treated at about 60 ° C to a boiling point, and then dried to generate lanthionine and lysinoalanine. , Fabrication or yarn processing method using animal hair. 請求項1から3のいずれかにおいて、獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸に、巻回、絞り、シワ寄せ、折り畳み、あるいは折り目付等による立体的な形状を記憶させるために、所定の立体形状の固形体上に固定したり、糸やゴム等で固定する等の固定手段を用いて、不可逆的架橋結合導入のための反応中、所定の形状を維持しておくことを特徴とする、獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸の加工方法。 The predetermined three-dimensional shape according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in order to store a three-dimensional shape by winding, drawing, wrinkling, folding, crease, or the like on a fabric or thread made of animal hair. The beast is characterized by maintaining a predetermined shape during the reaction for irreversible cross-linking introduction by using a fixing means such as fixing on a solid body or fixing with a thread or rubber. Fabric or yarn processing method using hair as material. 請求項1において、獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸にアール、しわ、ひだ形状、もしくは絞り形状、バネ・螺旋形状等の形状記憶加工を施すことを特徴とする獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸の加工方法。The fabric or yarn made of animal hair according to claim 1, wherein the fabric or yarn made of animal hair is subjected to shape memory processing such as a round shape, a wrinkle shape, a pleat shape, a drawn shape, a spring / spiral shape, or the like. Yarn processing method. 請求項1において、水蒸気雰囲気中での不可逆的架橋結合導入処理をおよそ5分から6時間行うことを特徴とする獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸の加工方法。The method for processing a fabric or yarn using animal hair as a material according to claim 1, wherein the irreversible cross-linking introduction treatment in a steam atmosphere is performed for about 5 minutes to 6 hours. 請求項1から6のいずれかに記載した獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸の加工方法によって製造された獣毛を素材とする形状記憶加工の施された布地もしくは糸。A fabric or yarn subjected to shape memory processing using animal hair as a raw material, manufactured by the method for processing a fabric or yarn using animal hair according to any one of claims 1 to 6. 請求項7に記載した、獣毛を素材とする布地もしくは糸で製作し形状記憶加工の施された洋服の芯地。8. A garment fabric according to claim 7, which is made of a fabric or yarn made of animal hair and is subjected to shape memory processing.
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