JP4744409B2 - Pleated product manufacturing method - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a pleated product in which a fabric is subjected to pleating by resin processing.

  In order to improve the design of the fabric, a process of applying a crease, crease, wrinkle or shrinkage (hereinafter referred to as “pleat”) to give the fabric a crease, undulation, unevenness, and a feeling of swelling is conventionally used. When the pleated fabric is sewn on a blouse, dress, skirt, or other garment, the pleat can express a moderate shade on the garment, enabling a wide range of designs and improving the functionality of the garment. .

  Conventionally, in the case of a synthetic fiber excellent in heat setting property, the pleating process as described above is performed by pressure treatment or heat treatment. On the other hand, cellulosic fibers such as cotton alone or fabrics containing these cellulosic fibers are less heat-settable like synthetic fibers, making it difficult to fix the pleated shape, and washing and wearing Since there is a problem that the pleat shape is easily removed later and the retainability is poor, pleating using a resin having a cellulose crosslinking ability is used.

  In Patent Document 1, after adding a glyoxal resin and a reaction catalyst to a fabric containing cellulosic fibers, pleats are attached in the fabric state, and then sewed and baked (heat treatment) to fix the pleated shape, A method is described in which a fabric to which a reaction catalyst has been applied is sewn, and then the garment is pleated and then baked to cause resination to fix the pleated shape.

JP-A-8-284061

  When a garment or the like is produced with a fabric containing cellulosic fibers using a conventional pleating method as described in Patent Document 1, the fabric previously provided with a glyoxal resin and a catalyst is pleated, and the fabric Since each piece is cut and sewn and baked to fix the pleat shape, the work process is many and the work is complicated.

  In addition, it is necessary to bake at a higher temperature in order to strengthen the cross-linking between fibers by reacting glyoxal resin and to improve the fixing property and retention of the pleat shape. When the baking temperature is high, there is a problem that the dough deteriorates and tears. For this reason, baking can be performed only at a relatively low temperature of about 160 ° C. as a pleating process, and conventional pleated products are inferior in fixability and retention of pleats, have low value, and are not practical. It was.

  Accordingly, the present invention provides a method for manufacturing a pleated product that simplifies the work process and can increase the value of the pleated product by maintaining the pleated material that has been pleated in a good condition over a long period of time. The purpose is to do.

The method for producing a pleated product of the present invention includes a step of immersing a dough containing cellulosic fibers in a processing solution containing a glyoxal resin, a reaction catalyst for promoting the reaction of the glyoxal resin and silk protein, and the dough from the dough A step of dehydrating or evaporating the processing liquid to bring the dough into a dry state, a step of pleating the dough in the dry state in a dry heat state, and washing the processed dough after the pleating process And a process .

  By immersing the dough in a processing solution containing a glyoxal resin, a reaction catalyst, and silk protein, the resin in the processing solution sufficiently permeates the dough. Then, the processing liquid is dehydrated or evaporated to a state where the dough is not completely dried, that is, a so-called raw dry state, and in this state, the processing liquid adhering to the dough is dried by performing pleating with dry heat. When going, the structure of the fibers constituting the fabric is firmly fixed by the crosslinking reaction of the resin, so that the fabric can be satisfactorily pleated.

  The silk protein contained in the processing liquid penetrates between the fibers that make up the fabric and covers the surface of each fiber, thus increasing the strength of each individual fiber and increasing the strength of the fabric. To improve. Thereby, even if pleating is performed in a high-temperature dry heat state that makes the cross-linking reaction of the glyoxal-based resin good, no tearing of the fabric occurs. Moreover, since pleating can be performed in a high temperature state, the pleated shape can be fixed and retained. Moreover, since the silk protein covers the surface of the fiber to improve the flexibility of the fabric, the texture and feel of the fabric subjected to the pleating process is improved, and the value as a product can be further increased. Silk protein is composed of fibroin and sericin, but it is preferable to use fibroin alone or fibroin with high purity. Thereby, it becomes possible to improve the permeability of the working fluid into the dough.

  In addition, since the pleated process is performed on the freshly dried dough in a dry heat state, that is, pleating and fixing of the pleats are performed simultaneously, the work process can be simplified. Also, by pleating after the fabric is dry, it is possible to prevent the resin in the processing liquid from being pleated while adhering to the biased state in the fabric, and the degree of pleat fixation can be reduced. It can be made uniform throughout.

  In addition, in this invention, a pleat includes the folding wrinkles, shrinkage | contraction, etc. which give the undulation | undulation, unevenness | corrugation, a swelling feeling etc. to cloth | dough other than what is called a pleat provided in order to improve the designability. The shape of the pleat is not particularly limited, such as a regular one or a geometric pattern.

  Here, as the glyoxal resin to be used, conventionally known resins can be used, and examples thereof include 1,3-dimethylglyoxal urea resin, dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea resin, dimethylol dihydroxypropylene urea resin, and the like. The functional groups of these resins may be substituted with other functional groups. Further, the reaction catalyst for promoting the reaction of the glyoxal resin is not particularly limited as long as it is a commonly used catalyst. For example, borofluorinated compounds such as ammonium borofluoride and borofluoride, magnesium chloride, sulfuric acid Examples include neutral metal salt catalysts such as magnesium, and inorganic acids such as phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, and boric acid. These catalysts can be used together with an organic acid such as citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, and lactic acid as a co-catalyst, if necessary.

  The dough containing cellulosic fibers in the present invention includes not only 100% cotton but also other fibers such as natural cellulose fibers such as hemp, flax, pulp and bacterial cellulose fibers, and natural proteins such as silk and wool. Fiber, viscose rayon (including polynosic), copper ammonia rayon, solvent-spinned rayon fiber, semi-synthetic fiber such as acetate, synthetic fiber such as polyester, polyamide, acrylic, nylon, polyethylene, polypropylene, Furthermore, these fibers (natural fibers, regenerated cellulose fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, synthetic fibers) can be obtained by blending, blending, blending, weaving, twisting, etc. with fibers that have been processed in advance by graft polymerization or the like. Woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, nonwoven fabrics and the like containing spun yarns.

  In addition, it is desirable that the processing liquid contains a processing aid that prevents a reduction in the strength of the dough during the resin processing of the glyoxal resin.

  As processing aids, conventionally known ones such as polyethylene emulsions can be used. By adding a processing aid to the processing liquid, it is possible to further prevent a decrease in the strength of the fabric during the resin processing, while maintaining the applied pleats in a good condition over a long period of time, while reducing the mechanical strength of the fabric. Can be prevented.

  Formalin is contained in the processing liquid containing the glyoxal resin, but the concentration of formalin remaining in the dough can be lowered by washing the dough after pleating. Moreover, the texture of the provided pleats can be improved.

  Also, semi-finished products and finished products can be prepared by immersing the pre-processed parts after cutting for each part of the pleated product, or by sewing the parts together in a processing solution, making it dry, and pleating Pleated can be applied to the fabric in the state of. In addition, after the work from the cutting of the fabric to the sewing is performed in a series of steps, the operation can be shifted to the operation of applying pleats, and the work process can be simplified.

  Here, pre-processing means that the edge of the fabric is unraveled in the state of being cut, so that some kind of cleanup is done to prevent the unraveling, and some sort of cleanup is done as a decorative design. This refers to processing such as folding the ends and stitching them, putting a separate cloth or tape-like material on the edge of the fabric, stitching it, or sewing a lace or the like.

  According to the present invention, the step of immersing the dough containing cellulosic fibers in a processing solution containing glyoxal resin, a reaction catalyst for promoting the reaction of the glyoxal resin and silk protein, and dehydrating the processing solution from the dough, or By including the step of evaporating and the step of pleating the fabric in a dry heat state, pleating and fixing of the pleats can be performed at the same time, so that the work process can be simplified and the pleats can be simplified. Since the fixability and retention of the shape can be improved, pleats applied by pleating can be maintained in a good state over a long period of time. Thereby, the value as a pleated product can be raised and it becomes possible to manufacture a practical pleated product.

  Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail. FIG. 1 is a diagram illustrating a manufacturing process of a pleated product according to the present embodiment.

  As shown in FIG. 1, the manufacturing method of the pleated product according to the present embodiment includes a cutting process 1 for cutting a dough containing cellulosic fibers for each part, a preprocessing process 2 for performing edge cleansing processing of the cut dough, Immersion process 3 for immersing the treated dough in the processing liquid, drying process 4 for drying the dough immersed in the processing liquid, pleating process 5 for pleating the dough in a freshly dried state, washing the pleated dough A washing process 6 and a finishing process 7 are included.

  First, the fabric is cut into parts constituting the product (cutting process 1). As long as the dough contains cellulosic fibers, any commercially available dough can be used.

  Since the edge of the fabric will be released in the state of being cut, in order to prevent the release, put a lock sewing machine on the fabric end, fold the fabric end twice and sew it, or cover the fabric end with a bias tape. For example, a lace or the like is sewn for sewing or pre-decorating (pretreatment step 2).

  The pre-treated fabric is immersed in the processing liquid as it is (immersion process 3), or the parts are sewn together into a finished product or a semi-finished product (sewing process 8) and immersed in the processing liquid. (Immersion process 3). The processing fluid contains processing aids and silk proteins that prevent a reduction in the strength of the dough in the resin processing of glyoxal resins such as glyoxal resins, reaction catalysts, and polyethylene emulsions. It is adjusted as appropriate depending on the composition, thickness, and processing state of the dough. The dipping method is not particularly limited, but the dough is completely immersed in a container in which the processing solution is stored and left for a certain period of time, or the dough is shaken to sufficiently infiltrate the processing solution into the dough. .

  The dough infiltrated with the processing liquid is pulled up from the container and applied to a dehydrator to dehydrate the processing liquid or put into a dryer to evaporate the processing liquid (drying step 4). In this drying step 4, the dough is not completely dried, that is, a so-called freshly dried state. When the dough is dried, the resin in the processing liquid is solidified, so that the dehydration state, the time required for the dryer, the temperature, and the like are appropriately adjusted in consideration of the temperature and humidity during the work.

  Pleating is applied to the dough in a dry state (pleating process 5). In the present embodiment, both hand pleats and machine pleats can be used. While the pleated shape is applied to the dough, the processing liquid is completely dried in a dry heat state of about 170 ° C., so that the fibers constituting the dough are fixed to the applied pleated shape by the resin in the processing liquid. .

  Wash the pleated fabric and wash away the formalin remaining on the fabric (washing step 6). By passing through the washing step, the concentration of formalin remaining in the fabric can be suppressed to half or less. Next, the finished cloth is dried (finishing step 7). In the case of a fabric that has not undergone the sewing process 8, the pleated fabrics are stitched together to form a finished product, and then the process proceeds to the washing process 6 and the finishing process 7.

  Thus, according to this embodiment, since the processing liquid contains silk protein, pleating can be performed in a dry heat state of about 170 ° C. without worrying about tearing of the dough. Glyoxal It is possible to improve the cross-linking reaction of the resin and improve the pleat-shaped fixability and retention. In addition, since the pleating and fixing are simultaneously performed in the pleating process 5, the working process can be simplified.

  The pleated product manufactured by the above method does not become pleated even after repeated washing, and becomes a pleated product with good durability. Moreover, since silk protein is contained in the processing liquid, the texture and feel are good, and a pleated product with high product value can be obtained. In the following, an experiment was conducted on the pleat retention of the pleated product manufactured in the present embodiment, which will be described in detail in Examples.

Example 1
100% cotton fabric with 10% OWF for glyoxal resin, about 3% OWF for composite metal salt as reaction catalyst, about 1-2% OWF for polyethylene emulsion as processing aid, and 20% OWF for silk protein Example 1 was obtained by infiltrating into the liquid, performing dehydration and drying treatment to obtain a state of raw drying, and performing pleating in a dry heat state of about 170 ° C. Further, 100% cotton fabric was dipped in a processing solution obtained by removing silk protein from the above processing solution, and then subjected to pleating in the same manner as Comparative Example 1.

  For Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the finished state and the state after 20 home washings by visual inspection. As shown in Table 1, the fabric of Example 1 had good pleated state applied to the sample not only in the finished state but also in the state after being washed 20 times.

○：良
△：やや良
×：不良

○: Good △: Slightly good ×: Bad

(Example 2)
When a fabric obtained by pleating a fabric of 70% cotton and 30% silk by the same method as in Example 1 was evaluated by a general textile test method (JIS L 1096) defined by Japanese Industrial Standards, the tear strength was determined. (A shirt and a blouse are required to be 7.0N or more) were 11.9N in length and 11.6N in width, and a seam strength (a shirt and blouse was required to be 70.0N or more) was 96.7N. The pleats applied to the fabric were well held not only in the finished state but also in the state after 20 washes.

(Comparative Example 2)
A fabric that is pleated by the same method as in Example 1 except that silk protein is not contained in a fabric of 70% cotton and 30% silk is defined by Japanese Industrial Standards. When evaluated by the general textile testing method (JIS L 1096), the tear strength (requires a shirt and blouse of 7.0 N or more) is 3.7 N in length, 7.2 N in width, and the seam strength (70 in shirt and blouse is 70). 0.0N or more required) was 66.0N.

  As can be seen from the comparison between Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, and the comparison between Example 2 and Comparative Example 2, according to the pleating method in the present embodiment, the strength reduction of the fabric is prevented, and the pleated shape is reduced. It was found that the fixing property and the holding property can be improved.

  According to the present invention, the work process can be simplified, and the pleats applied by pleating can be maintained in a good state over a long period of time, so that it can be suitably used as a method for manufacturing a pleated product. The product manufactured according to the present invention is useful as a pleated product having a high product value.

It is a figure which shows the manufacturing process of the pleated product in embodiment.

Explanation of symbols

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Cutting process 2 Pre-processing process 3 Immersion process 4 Drying process 5 Pleating process 6 Laundry process 7 Finishing process 8 Sewing process

Claims (3)

A step of immersing the dough containing cellulosic fibers in a processing liquid containing glyoxal resin, a reaction catalyst for promoting the reaction of the glyoxal resin, and silk protein;
Dehydrating or evaporating the processing liquid from the dough to bring the dough into a dry state; and
A process of pleating the dough in the state of dryness in a dry heat state;
Washing the processed fabric after the pleating process;
Method for manufacturing pleated products including   The method for producing a pleated product according to claim 1, wherein the processing liquid contains a processing aid for preventing a decrease in strength of the dough during resin processing of the glyoxal resin. 3. The pleated product according to claim 1, further comprising a step of pre-processing the fabric after cutting into parts constituting the pleated product or sewing the parts before the step of immersing in the processing liquid. Manufacturing method.

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