JP4306245B2 - High density fabric - Google Patents

Description

【００９０】
【表２】

【００９１】
表中、ＷＣＦは経糸のカバーファクター、ＦＣＦは緯糸のカバーファクター、ＷＦＣ／ＦＣＦは経糸のカバーファクター／緯糸のカバーファクターである。
【００９２】
【発明の効果】
本発明によれば、防水性能と縫製後の仕立て映えの良さを実現しながら、優れた柔軟性と耐摩耗性を有するポリ乳酸繊維からなる高密度織物を得ることができる。また、本発明の撥水性能と耐摩耗性を有する高密度織物から、実用耐久性に優れかつ柔軟で縫製後の仕立て映えの良いノンコート衣料を製造することができる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】 本発明で好ましく用いられる紡糸装置を示す概略図である。
【符号の説明】
１：ホッパー
２：エクストルーダー
３：紡糸ブロック
４：紡糸パック
５：紡糸口金
６：吸引装置
７：冷却チムニー
８：給油装置
９：交絡ノズル
１０：第１ゴデットロール
１１：第２ゴデットロール
１２：巻取装置
１３：チーズ状パッケージ[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a non-coating type high density fabric having excellent flexibility and wear resistance while satisfying the contradictory properties of waterproof performance and good finish after sewing.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Recently, with increasing awareness of the environment on a global scale, the development of fiber materials that decompose in the natural environment is eagerly desired. For example, conventional general-purpose plastics use petroleum resources as the main raw material, so they will not decompose in the natural environment, and future depletion of petroleum resources and global warming caused by mass consumption of petroleum resources are major problems. It has been picked up.
[0003]
For this reason, in recent years, research and development of various plastics and fibers such as aliphatic polyesters have been activated. Among them, attention is focused on plastics that are decomposed by microorganisms, that is, fibers using biodegradable plastics.
[0004]
Moreover, by using plant resources that grow by taking in carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, it can be expected that global warming can be suppressed by the circulation of carbon dioxide, and the problem of resource depletion may be solved. Therefore, attention has been focused on plastics starting from plant resources, that is, plastics using biomass.
[0005]
Until now, biodegradable plastics using biomass have not been used as general-purpose plastics because they have low mechanical properties and heat resistance and high production costs. On the other hand, in recent years, polylactic acid using lactic acid obtained by fermentation of starch as a raw material has attracted attention as a biodegradable plastic having relatively high mechanical properties and heat resistance and low production cost.
[0006]
Polylactic acid has been used in the medical field for a long time as, for example, a surgical suture, but recently it has become possible to compete with other general-purpose plastics in terms of price due to improvements in mass production technology. For this reason, product development as a fiber has been activated.
[0007]
The development of polylactic acid fiber is preceded by agricultural materials and civil engineering materials that make use of biodegradability, followed by large-scale applications such as clothing, curtain and carpet interiors, vehicle interiors, and industrial materials. Application to is expected. In addition, polylactic acid is attracting attention as a material that is gentle to the skin because of its weak acidity and mild antibacterial properties.
[0008]
However, the polylactic acid fiber has a high surface friction coefficient and low wear resistance, and thus has a disadvantage that it can be easily scraped by rubbing. Therefore, when polylactic acid fiber is used for a woven fabric, the fiber surface is shaved due to long-term use and the texture is lowered, or a color defect called white blur becomes obvious due to irregular reflection on the surface. In particular, in a woven fabric having a high weaving density, since the yarn is bent and the inter-fiber restraining force is strong, it is easily affected by external force, and the quality is deteriorated even in a relatively short time. Further, when weaving a high-density woven fabric, there is a manufacturing problem in that the gap between adjacent yarns is small, so that it is easily scratched and the weaving property is poor. Therefore, the development to a high-density fabric has not yet progressed.
[0009]
The cause causing these problems is due to the substrate of the polylactic acid polymer, and it is considered that the problem naturally occurs in the polylactic acid fiber.
[0010]
By the way, in the field of resin products, films, sheets, etc., in the manufacturing process, a lubricant is added to the polymer in order to improve the anti-blocking property of the chip or the molten polymer or the peelability of the molded product from the mold or roller. There is a case. However, in the field of fibers, the heat resistance of lubricants and the bleed-out to the fiber surface due to sublimation cause deterioration of fiber properties and quality deterioration due to dyeing spots, so it is unavoidable to use such additives until now. It was in.
[0011]
For polylactic acid fibers with added lubricant, the general formula RCONH₂It is disclosed that a hydrolysis rate is suppressed by adding a fatty acid monoamide represented by the formula (where R is an alkyl group) and imparting water repellency (see Patent Document 1). However, there is no suggestion of improving the abrasion resistance of polylactic acid fibers. In addition, as a precaution, a polylactic acid fiber to which a fatty acid monoamide was added was tested, but the wear resistance of the polylactic acid fiber could not be improved (see Comparative Example 3). This is presumably because the fatty acid monoamide reacts with polylactic acid at the time of melting due to the high reactivity of the amide group, and the proportion of fatty acid monoamide that contributes as a lubricant decreases. In addition, when fatty acid monoamide reacts with polylactic acid, the molecular chain of polylactic acid is cleaved, resulting in a decrease in molecular weight.
[0012]
In order to advance the development to high-density fabrics, it is desired to solve such problems.
[0013]
[Patent Document 1]
JP-A-8-183898 (pages 2 and 3)
[0014]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to provide a high-density fabric made of polylactic acid fiber having excellent flexibility and wear resistance while realizing waterproof performance and good finish after sewing.
[0015]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
  The present invention has the following configuration in order to achieve the above-described problems. That is, the high-density fabric of the present invention comprises polylactic acid containing 0.1 to 5% by weight of fatty acid bisamide and / or alkyl-substituted fatty acid monoamide based on the fiber weight.Single fiber fineness of 2.4 dtex or lessA woven fabric using multifilaments for warp and / or weft, wherein the total fineness of the weft is not less than the total fineness of the warp and the cover factor (WCF) of the warp is not less than 1100 It is.
[0016]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the high-density fabric using the multifilament made of polylactic acid according to the present invention will be described in detail.
[0017]
The polylactic acid referred to in the present invention is-(O-CHCH_ThreeA polymer having -CO) n- as a repeating unit, which is obtained by polymerizing lactic acid oligomers such as lactic acid and lactide. Since lactic acid has two types of optical isomers, D-lactic acid and L-lactic acid, the polymer is poly (D-lactic acid) consisting only of D isomer and poly (L-lactic acid) consisting only of L isomer. And polylactic acid composed of both. As the optical purity of D-lactic acid or L-lactic acid in polylactic acid decreases, the crystallinity decreases and the melting point drop increases. Therefore, the optical purity is preferably 90% or more in order to improve heat resistance.
[0018]
However, apart from the system in which two types of optical isomers are simply mixed as described above, the two types of optical isomers are blended and formed into a fiber, and then subjected to a high temperature heat treatment at 140 ° C. or higher. A stereo complex in which a racemic crystal is formed is more preferable because the melting point can be dramatically increased.
[0019]
In addition, residual monomers such as lactide are present in polylactic acid, but these low molecular weight residues can cause staining abnormalities such as heating heater stains in the false twisting process and dyed spots in the dyeing process. . Further, in order to promote the hydrolyzability of the fiber and reduce the durability, these low molecular weight residues are preferably 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and further preferably 0.2% by weight or less. It is.
[0020]
In addition, components other than lactic acid may be copolymerized within a range that does not impair the properties of polylactic acid. However, from the viewpoint of biomass utilization and biodegradability, the lactic acid monomer ratio in the polylactic acid fiber needs to be 50% by weight or more. The lactic acid monomer is preferably 75% by weight or more, more preferably 96% by weight or more. Further, a thermoplastic polymer other than polylactic acid may be blended, or both components may be combined (core-sheath type, bimetal type). Furthermore, additives such as particles, flame retardants, antistatic agents, antioxidants and ultraviolet absorbers may be contained as modifiers. Further, the molecular weight of the polylactic acid polymer is preferably 50,000 to 350,000 in terms of weight average molecular weight, and a good balance between mechanical properties and moldability is preferred, and more preferably 100,000 to 250,000.
[0021]
The method for producing polylactic acid used in the present invention is not particularly limited. Specifically, the method disclosed in JP-A-6-65360 is exemplified. That is, a direct dehydration condensation method in which lactic acid is dehydrated and condensed as it is in the presence of an organic solvent and a catalyst. Further, it is a method of copolymerizing and transesterifying at least two kinds of homopolymers disclosed in JP-A-7-173266 in the presence of a polymerization catalyst. Furthermore, there is a method disclosed in US Pat. No. 2,703,316. That is, an indirect polymerization method in which lactic acid is once dehydrated to form a cyclic dimer and then subjected to ring-opening polymerization.
[0022]
  In the present invention, as a lubricantFatty acid bisamide and / or alkyl-substituted fatty acid monoamideIs contained in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight based on the whole fiber.
[0023]
A multifilament made of polylactic acid has extremely poor wear resistance as compared with general-purpose synthetic fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate and polyamide. This is considered to be because the interaction between the molecular chains of polylactic acid is small and the molecular chains are easily peeled off. This tendency becomes more prominent as the temperature becomes higher. For this reason, when the yarn is run at a high speed in the yarn making process or the weaving and weaving process, the fibers are easily scraped, and fluff or yarn breakage occurs. Moreover, this tendency has a strong correlation with the weaving density, and the higher the density of the woven fabric, the more severe the cutting. In addition, if the product is repeatedly used or applied with a strong frictional force even after becoming a product such as clothing, the surface becomes rough due to wear, resulting in abnormal color tone, or it may cause rough skin if the texture is severe. For such problems, the addition of a lubricant decreases the surface friction coefficient of the fiber, so that it is possible to suppress an excessive increase in temperature or to prevent stress from being applied until breakage occurs.
[0025]
  Used in the present inventionFatty acid bisamideFor example,, TiredA compound having two amide bonds in one molecule, such as a sum fatty acid bisamide, unsaturated fatty acid bisamide, aromatic bisamide, etc., for example, methylene biscaprylic acid amide, methylene biscapric acid amide, methylene bislauric acid amide, methylene Bismyristic acid amide, methylene bis palmitic acid amide, methylene bis stearic acid amide, methylene bisisostearic acid amide, methylene bisbehenic acid amide, methylene bisoleic acid amide, methylene biserucic acid amide, ethylene biscaprylic acid amide, ethylene Biscapric acid amide, ethylene bislauric acid amide, ethylene bis myristic acid amide, ethylene bis palmitic acid amide, ethylene bis stearic acid amide, ethylene bis isostearic acid amide, ethylene bis Ninamide, Ethylene bisoleic acid amide, Ethylene bis erucic acid amide, Butylene bis stearic acid amide, Butylene bis behenic acid amide, Butylene bis oleic acid amide, Butylene bis erucic acid amide, Hexamethylene bis stearic acid amide, Hexa Methylene bisbehenic acid amide, hexamethylene bis oleic acid amide, hexamethylene bis erucic acid amide, m-xylylene bis stearic acid amide, m-xylylene bis-12-hydroxystearic acid amide, p-xylylene bis stearic acid amide P-phenylenebisstearic acid amide, p-phenylenebisstearic acid amide, N, N′-distearyl adipic acid amide, N, N′-distearyl sebacic acid amide, N, N′-dioleyl adipic acid amide, N N′-dioleoyl sebacic acid amide, N, N′-distearyl isophthalic acid amide, N, N′-distearyl terephthalic acid amide, methylene bishydroxystearic acid amide, ethylene bishydroxystearic acid amide, butylene bishydroxystearic acid Amide and hexamethylene bishydroxystearic acid amide, etc. In addition, as alkyl-substituted fatty acid monoamide, it refers to a compound with a structure in which amide hydrogen such as saturated fatty acid monoamide or unsaturated fatty acid monoamide is replaced with an alkyl group For example, N-lauryl lauric acid amide, N-palmityl palmitic acid amide, N-stearyl stearic acid amide, N-behenyl behenic acid amide, N-oleyl oleic acid amide, N-stearyl oleic acid amide N-oleyl stearic acid amide, N-stearyl erucic acid amide, N-oleyl palmitic acid amide and the like. The alkyl group may have a substituent such as a hydroxyl group introduced into its structure. For example, methylol stearamide, methylol behenic acid amide, N-stearyl-12-hydroxystearic acid amide, N- Oleyl 12 hydroxystearic acid amide and the like are also included in the alkyl-substituted fatty acid monoamide of the present invention.
[0027]
  FatFatty acid bisamides and alkyl-substituted fatty acid monoamides are less reactive with polylactic acid during melt molding because they are less reactive than general fatty acid monoamides, and are heat resistant due to their high molecular weight. Excellent slipperiness without impairing the function as a lubricant because it is difficult to sublimate by melt molding. In particular, fatty acid bisamides can be used more preferably because the reactivity of amides is even lower, and ethylene bisstearic acid amide is more preferred.
[0028]
  In the present invention, two or more kindsFatty acid bisamide and / or alkyl-substituted fatty acid monoamideYou can useNo.
[0029]
  Fatty acid bisamide and / or alkyl-substituted fatty acid monoamideThe content of is required to be 0.1% by weight or more based on the fiber weight in order to exhibit the above characteristics. On the other hand, if the content is too large, the mechanical properties of the fiber are lowered or the color tone is deteriorated when dyed with yellowishness, so the content is 5% by weight or less. TheFatty acid bisamide and / or alkyl-substituted fatty acid monoamideThe content of is more preferably 0.2 to 4% by weight, still more preferably 0.3 to 3% by weight.
[0030]
The multifilament made of polylactic acid used in the present invention has a total weft fineness equal to or greater than the total warp fineness. If the total fineness of the wefts of the fabric constituent fibers is smaller than the total fineness of the warp, even if a fabric with high water pressure resistance is obtained, sufficient weft tear strength (strength to tear the weft) is not obtained for high-density fabrics. . The weft tear strength is preferably 900 g or more at a practical level, more preferably 1100 g or more. The weft tear strength at this time is the tear strength measured by the tear strength (penjuram method) defined in JIS L-1096.
[0031]
A preferable upper limit of the total fineness ratio of the warp / weft is about 1/2 due to the balance between the warp and the weft.
[0032]
In the high-density fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the total fineness of the multifilaments to be formed is 50 to 170 dtex. If the total fineness is less than 50 dtex, it is difficult to keep the tear strength of the fabric at a level that is practically acceptable because of the high density fabric. On the other hand, when the total fineness exceeds 170 dtex, the denseness of the woven fabric is lowered, the water pressure resistance is lowered, and a desired highly woven fabric is difficult to obtain. Therefore, a more preferable range of the total fineness of the multifilament is 60 to 120 dtex. The preferred total fineness of the warp is 50 to 140 dtex, and the preferred range of the weft is 60 to 170 dtex.
[0033]
The single fiber fineness constituting the multifilament of the present invention is preferably 2.4 dtex or less, more preferably 1.2 dtex or less. More preferably, it is 0.8 dtex or less. This is because if the single fiber fineness of the yarn constituting the woven fabric exceeds 2.4 dtex, the denseness of the woven fabric is lowered, the water pressure resistance is lowered, the flexibility is lost, and it is not suitable for clothing use. On the other hand, in order to maintain good wear resistance for clothing applications, the single fiber fineness is preferably 0.1 dtex or more.
[0034]
In the high-density fabric of the present invention, the warp cover factor (WCF) is 1100 or more. If the cover factor of the warp is less than 1100, the woven fabric density of the product is low, so that the denseness is lowered and sufficient water pressure resistance cannot be obtained. The cover factor of the warp is preferably 1200 or more, more preferably 1300 or more. On the other hand, it is preferable that the cover factor of the warp is 1800 or less in order to give flexibility to the woven fabric and to obtain good quality without scraping during weaving.
[0035]
The warp cover factor (WCF) and the weft cover factor (FCF) are determined by the following equations.
[0036]
WCF = WN × (WD)^1/2
FCF = FN × (FD)^1/2
In the above formula, WN represents the product weave density of warp (number of warps per 2.54 cm), WD represents the total fineness (dtex) of the warp before weaving, and FN represents the product weave density of weft (per 2.54 cm). FD represents the total fineness (dtex) of the weft before weaving.
[0037]
In the present invention, it is preferable that the cover factor (WCF) of the warp and the cover factor (FCF) of the weft satisfy the following relationship.
[0038]
0.60 ≦ FCF / WCF ≦ 0.78
The ratio between the cover factor of the weft and the cover factor of the warp is such that even if the cover factor of the warp is 1100 or more, if the cover factor of the weft is small, that is, the FCF / WCF is less than 0.60, the desired water pressure resistance is obtained. It may not be possible. Further, if the cover factor of the warp is very large, for example, 1400 or more, the desired water pressure resistance can be obtained. However, the weft density is insufficient and the weft tear strength is reduced. In addition, in order to obtain a high-density fabric having a WCF of 1100 or more and an FCF / WCF exceeding 0.78, the weaving density at the time of weaving is increased, and fluff is generated or the texture of the obtained fabric is obtained. May rough cure. The cover factor of the weft is preferably about 750 to 1250.
[0039]
The multifilament used for the warp and / or weft may be either a crimped yarn or a flat yarn, but it is preferable to use a crimped yarn for the following reason. When a so-called flat yarn having no crimp is used, puckering is likely to occur in the garment after sewing, the tailoring quality is poor, and the commercial value tends to decrease. In clothing made of high-density fabrics, the presence or absence of puckering at the seam is an important criterion for the quality of tailoring after sewing. In the puckering of high-density fabric, a hole is made by a sewing needle at the time of sewing, and three thick sewing threads of at least 200 dtex class are put therein. Therefore, since the warp and weft constituting the high-density fabric are pushed away, the fabric constituting yarn that has been kept straight and balanced before sewing is bent and suspended, and stitch puckering occurs.
[0040]
In order to eliminate seam puckering in a high-density fabric, it is important not to hang the fabric-constituting yarn even if it is curved. For this purpose, it is preferable to use crimped yarns for the warp and / or the weft of the fabric. As a result, the bent structure of the crimped yarn has room to be straight at the curved portion, so that the fabric constituting yarn other than the seam is not pulled, and the effect of eliminating seam puckering is exhibited.
[0041]
Moreover, stretchability can be provided to the woven fabric by having crimps. By imparting stretch properties, it is possible to give a good fit when the fabric is sewn, and it is a material suitable for sportswear applications. 30% or more is preferable and the stretch elongation rate which shows the stretch property of the said crimped yarn has more preferable 40% or more. More preferably, the expansion / contraction elongation is 50% or more. When the stretch / extension ratio is less than 30%, good stretchability is hardly obtained. The upper limit of the stretch / elongation rate is not particularly limited, but is preferably 200%.
[0042]
Further, the elastic modulus of elasticity, which is an index indicating crimp recovery, is preferably 60% or more, and more preferably 70% or more. More preferably, the elastic modulus is 80% or more. The stretch elongation rate and the stretch elastic modulus are pre-treated for 20 minutes at 90 ° C. in wet heat.
Measured according to L-1090.
[0043]
In addition, since 80% of the seams of the garment are usually warped, using a crimped yarn as the warp yields a high-density fabric with better tailoring, which is a more preferred embodiment.
[0044]
The crimped yarns may be false twisted yarns or crimped conjugate yarns in which at least two polylactic acid polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are parallel or bonded to an eccentric core sheath. It is not limited to.
[0045]
The high-density fabric of the present invention is a multifilament in which the warp and / or the weft is made of polylactic acid fiber, but the cross-sectional shape of the constituent fiber is a round cross section, a triangular cross section, a multi-lobe cross section, a hollow cross section, a flat cross section, Any of a W cross section, an X-shaped cross section, and other irregular cross sections may be used.
[0046]
Further, if the warp and / or the weft is a multifilament made of the polylactic acid of the present invention, other fibers may be included. For example, it may be natural fiber, recycled fiber, semi-synthetic fiber, alignment with synthetic fiber, twisted yarn, mixed fiber. Other fibers include natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk, regenerated fibers such as rayon and cupra, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, nylon, polyester (polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, etc.), polyacrylonitrile In addition, synthetic fibers such as polyvinyl chloride are applicable.
[0047]
Further, the woven fabric structure is not particularly limited, and there are plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, or a combination of these, a weaving texture, etc. In order to stably obtain the high-density fabric of the present invention, plain weave Is preferred. The loom for weaving is not particularly limited.
[0048]
In addition, processing shrinkage from raw machinery to products is also an important factor. This is a preferable mode because the higher the processing shrinkage, the higher the density. However, the process shrinkage is less effective if the shrinkage of the fabric constituting yarn itself is large, the shrinkage of the fabric constituting yarn is small, and it is important that the work shrinkage due to the shrinkage as the fabric structure is large. When the shrinkage of the woven structure is large, even if the thread at the seam portion is curved, there is a margin for the thread not to be hung.
[0049]
Further, the color tone of the woven fabric has a b * value of −1 to 5 which is one index (yellowishness) of the color tone in order to increase the color variation in the dyeing stage of the post-process and enable a highly saturated color. It is preferable that it is -1, and it is more preferable that it is -1-3.
[0050]
The high-density fabric of the present invention preferably has a water pressure resistance of 800 mm or more after water-repellent treatment. The required level of water pressure resistance varies depending on the use environment, but for blousons, coats, and general sports clothing, 800 mm or more is preferable, and for skiing, snowboarding, mountain climbing, etc., 1000 mm or more is preferable. In the present invention, for imparting characteristics to the high-density fabric, for example, an antistatic agent or a hygroscopic agent can be used according to antistatic property, hygroscopic property, or the like. Further, when weaving, additional twisting or the like may be appropriately performed for the bundling property, bending rigidity, texture, etc. of the yarn, and the yarn may be glued or the like for bundling property.
[0051]
The high-density fabric of the present invention is made of outdoor wear, golf wear, athletic wear, ski wear, snowboard wear and sportswear such as pants, casual wear such as blouson, coat, and cold protection. It is preferably used for women's and gentlemen's outerwear such as clothes and rainwear, and by using the function to suppress the entry of dust and mites, uniforms such as dustless clothes, comforters and mattresses, skin comforters, kotatsu comforters, cushions, babies Futons, blankets and other futons and pillows, cushions and other linings and covers, mattresses and bed pads, hospital, medical, hotel and baby sheets, and sleeping bags, cradle and stroller covers, etc. It can be preferably used for bedding materials. Moreover, it is not limited to these uses, It can use also for the grass-proof sheet | seat for agriculture, the waterproof sheet | seat for building materials, etc.
[0052]
The high-density woven fabric of the present invention exhibits sufficient practical durability, good flexibility and color developability when used as these materials, and further provides excellent comfort due to the weakly acidic effect and antibacterial effect of polylactic acid. It is.
[0053]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the high-density fabric of the present invention will be described in detail using examples. In addition, the following methods were used for the measurement / evaluation method of physical properties and the like in each example.
[0054]
A. Weight average molecular weight
Gel permeation chromatography 2690 manufactured by Waters was used, and measurement was performed using polystyrene as a standard.
[0055]
B. Strength and elongation
The sample was measured with a Tensilon UCT-100 manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd. under the constant speed elongation conditions shown in JIS L1013 (chemical fiber filament yarn test method). The elongation at break was determined from the elongation at the point showing the maximum strength in the SS curve.
[0056]
C. Boiling water shrinkage
It measured according to JIS L1013 (chemical fiber filament yarn test method).
[0057]
Use a measuring machine to collect sachets from the undrawn yarn package, 90 x 10^-3Measure the casket length L1 with the actual length measurement load of cN / dtex, then remove the actual length measurement load, put it in boiling water for 15 minutes, take it out, air-dry, and again apply the actual length measurement load to the casket length. L2 was measured and the boiling water shrinkage was calculated by the following formula.
[0058]
Boiling water shrinkage ratio (%) = [(L1-L2) / L1] × 100
D. Elastic elongation and elastic modulus
The heat treatment was performed free of load according to 5.7 C method (simple method) of JIS L1090 (synthetic fiber filament bulk processing thread test method), and the stretch elongation rate and the stretch elastic modulus were defined by the following formulas.
Expansion / contraction elongation (%) = [(L1-L0) / L0] × 100%
Elastic modulus of elasticity (%) = [(L1−L2) / (L1−L0)] × 100%
L0: A fiber casserole is heated at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes in a load-free state, air-dried for one day and night, and then 1.8 × 10^-3Case length 30 seconds after hanging cN / dtex load
L1: After measuring L0, remove the L0 measurement load to 90 × 10^-3Case length 30 seconds after hanging cN / dtex load
L2: After L1 measurement, remove L1 measurement load and let stand for 2 minutes, again 1.8 × 10^-3Case length 30 seconds after hanging cN / dtex load
E. Color tone (b * value)
The scoured woven fabric was laminated to such an extent that the white plate as a base was negligible, and the b * value was measured using “Spectrophotometer CM-3700d” manufactured by Minolta. At this time, D65 (color temperature 6504K) was used as a light source, and measurement was performed in a 10 ° visual field.
[0059]
F. Cover factor for warp and weft
As described above, the warp cover factor (WCF) and the weft cover factor (FCF) were calculated by the following equations.
WCF = WN × (WT)^1/2
FCF = FN × (FT)^1/2
WN represents the product weave density of warp (number of warps per 2.54 cm), WT represents the total fineness (decitex) of the warp before weaving, and FN represents the product weave density of weft (weft per 2.54 cm). FT indicates the total fineness (decitex) of the weft yarn before weaving.
[0060]
G. Abrasion resistance (fast dry friction)
Based on JIS L0849, the dyed textile sample was rubbed back and forth 100 times with a cotton cloth, and the degree of color transfer to the cotton cloth was determined in 5 stages using a gray scale.
[0061]
H. Water pressure resistance
It measured by the low water pressure method prescribed | regulated to A method of JISL-1092.
[0062]
I. Tailoring
Two sets of six specimens cut in the warp direction of 40 cm and the weft direction of the woven fabric were overlapped and three sets of straight stitches were made, and the vicinity of the seam was visually judged in three stages of ◎, ○ and ×.
[0063]
J. et al. Texture characteristics
The sample was subjected to a sensory test by paired comparison with a reference sample, and was evaluated in four stages. Then, they were comprehensively evaluated, and “very good” was “◎”, “excellent” was “◯”, “normal” was “△”, and “poor” was “x”.
[0064]
[Production Example 1] (Production of polylactic acid)
Lactide produced from L-lactic acid having an optical purity of 99.5% was polymerized at 180 ° C. for 180 minutes in a nitrogen atmosphere in the presence of a bis (2-ethylhexanoate) tin catalyst (lactide to catalyst molar ratio = 10000: 1). And polylactic acid P1 was obtained. The obtained polylactic acid had a weight average molecular weight of 172,000. The amount of lactide remaining was 0.12% by weight.
[0065]
[Production Example 2] (Production of polylactic acid containing 5% by weight of EBA)
Polylactic acid P1 obtained in Production Example 1 and ethylene bis stearamide (hereinafter referred to as EBA) trade name “Alflow” H-50S manufactured by NOF Corporation are dried, and then P1: EBA = 95: 5 (Polylactic acid P2 containing 5% by weight of EBA was obtained by kneading at a cylinder temperature of 210 ° C. The amount of residual lactide of the obtained polylactic acid was 0.15% by weight.
[0066]
[Production Example 3] (Production of polylactic acid containing 6% by weight of EBA)
Polylactic acid P3 containing 6% by weight of EBA was obtained in the same manner as in Production Example 2 except that P1: EBA was changed to 94: 6 (weight ratio). The amount of residual lactide of the obtained polylactic acid was 0.14% by weight.
[0067]
[Production Example 4] (Production of polylactic acid containing 5% by weight of SS)
After drying the polylactic acid P1 obtained in Production Example 1 and N-stearyl stearamide (alkyl-substituted monoamide, hereinafter referred to as SS) manufactured by Nippon Kasei Co., Ltd., the product name “Nikka Amide S” was dried. The mixture was supplied to a twin-screw kneading extruder so that SS = 95: 5 (weight ratio), and kneaded at a cylinder temperature of 210 ° C. to obtain polylactic acid P4 containing 5% by weight of SS. The amount of residual lactide of the obtained polylactic acid was 0.15% by weight.
[0068]
[Production Example 5] (Production of polylactic acid containing 5% by weight of SA)
After drying the polylactic acid P1 obtained in Production Example 1 and stearic acid amide (monoamide, hereinafter referred to as SA) trade name “Alflow” S-10 manufactured by NOF Corporation, P1: SA = 95: 5 The mixture was supplied to a biaxial kneader / extruder so as to have a (weight ratio) and kneaded at a cylinder temperature of 210 ° C. to obtain polylactic acid P5 containing 5% by weight of SA. The amount of residual lactide of the obtained polylactic acid was 0.17% by weight.
[0069]
Example 1
The chips were blended (EBA 1% by weight) so that polylactic acid P1: polylactic acid P2 = 4: 1 by weight ratio, and then dried at 100 ° C. for about 10 hours in a vacuum dryer. The moisture content of the removed chip was about 60 ppm. This chip was charged into the hopper 1 and melted at 215 ° C. with the extruder 2, and then the molten polymer was introduced into the spin pack 4 incorporated in the spin block 3 heated to 225 ° C., with a pore diameter of 0.2 mm and a hole depth of 0. Spinning was performed from a die 5 having 5 mm and 120 holes (see FIG. 1). At this time, the suction device 7 was installed at a position 10 cm below the base, and monomers and oligomers that sublimated at a suction speed of 25 m / min were removed. The spun yarn was cooled and solidified at a wind speed of 25 m / min by a cooling chimney 6 and then supplied by an oil supply device 8 installed 1.2 m below the base. In the spinning oil, 78% by weight of polyether as a smoothing agent, 12% by weight of ether ester, and 10% by weight of other additives (antistatic agent, antioxidant, rust preventive agent) were adjusted. The oil was adjusted as a water emulsion so as to have a concentration of 15% by weight, and adhered to the fiber by 6% by weight (0.9% by weight as a pure oil component).
[0070]
Next, entanglement is applied by the entanglement nozzle 9 at an operating pressure of air pressure of 0.1 MPa, taken up by the first godet roll 10 with a peripheral speed of 4000 m / min, and then taken up by the take-up device 12 through the second godet roll 11. , 100 dtex, 120 filament undrawn yarn (cheese-like package 13) was obtained. There was no occurrence of yarn breakage or fluff during spinning, and the spinnability was good.
[0071]
Furthermore, using a friction false twisting machine equipped with a triaxial twister, a processing speed of 500 m / min, a disk rotation speed of 4500 rpm (using a 58 mm diameter urethane disk), a hot plate temperature of 130 ° C. (hot plate length of 1.8 m), a draw ratio of 1 False twisting was performed at a magnification of 25 times to obtain a false twisted yarn of 80 dtex and 120 filaments (single fiber fineness 0.67 dtex). There was no yarn breakage or fluffing during false twisting, and false twisting was good.
[0072]
When the physical properties of the obtained false twisted yarn were measured, the strength was 2.1 cN / dtex, the elongation was 20%, the boiling water shrinkage was 11%, the stretch elongation was 65%, and the stretch elasticity was 71%. The crimp characteristics were excellent.
[0073]
Further, the false twisted yarn was added and then S-twisted at a twist number of 300 T / m. A plain weave fabric was produced using the twisted yarn as a warp and a weft. The warp density of the green machine was 146 / 2.54 cm and 105 wefts / 2.54 cm. Further, the raw machine was subjected to dyeing and water repellent treatment under the following conditions to obtain a textile product.
[0074]
<Fabric processing conditions>
a. Scouring
Soda ash 1g / L
Surfactant (Sanyo Kasei Co., Ltd., Gran Up US-20) 0.5g / L
Treatment conditions: 98 ° C x 20 minutes
b. Intermediate set
Treatment conditions: 140 ° C x 3 minutes
c. staining
Dianix Navy Blue ERFS 200
(Dianix Navy Blue ERFS 200) 2% owf
pH adjuster (acetic acid / sodium acetate buffer, pH 5) 0.2 g / L
Processing conditions: 110 ° C. × 40 minutes
d. Soaping
Surfactant (manufactured by Sanyo Kasei Co., Ltd., trade name Grand Up US-20) 0.2 g / L
Treatment conditions: 60 ° C x 20 minutes
e. Water repellent treatment
After soaking in the following agent A, soaking in the following agent B.
[0075]
Agent A: Maxguard EC-400 (Kyokin Kasei Co., Ltd.) 60 g / L
Super Fresh JB-7200 (manufactured by Kyokin Kasei Co., Ltd.) 5g / L
Super Fresh JB-7300 (Kyokin Kasei Co., Ltd.) 5g / L
Sumitex Resin MK (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 5g / L
Agent B: Asahi Guard AG-620 (manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd.) 30 g / L
Sumitex Resin M-3 (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 5g / L
Ammonium persulfate (Mitsubishi Gas Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1g / L
f. Finishing set
Treatment conditions: 140 ° C x 3 minutes
The resulting high-density fabric had a refined b * of 2.7, indicating a good color tone. In addition, the weaving density of the finished set finished product was warp 155 / 2.54 cm, weft 108 / 2.54 cm, WCF1386, FCF966, and FCF / WCF was 0.70. When the fastness to friction of this high-density fabric was measured, it was grade 4, and it had good wear resistance. Also, the water pressure resistance is 1200mm, H₂O showed sufficient water repellency and a texture with excellent flexibility.
[0076]
(Example 2, Example 3)
A high-density fabric was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the blend ratio of polylactic acid P1 and polylactic acid P2 was changed as follows. The high-density fabric obtained in Example 2 with P1: P2 = 19: 1 had good spinnability, false twisting and weaving properties. Further, the fastness to friction was grade 3, which was inferior to the high-density fabric obtained in Example 1, but at a level of no problem in practical use. Further, the water pressure resistance, tailoring and texture were all excellent as in Example 1.
[0077]
In addition, the high-density fabric obtained in Example 3 to which only polylactic acid P2 was supplied had good spinnability, false twistability, and weaving property. The obtained textile product has excellent friction fastness of 4th grade, the color tone after scouring is slightly yellowish, and the product after dyeing is slightly inferior in quality, but the other characteristics are shown in Example 1. As in the case of the high-density woven fabric obtained in the above, it was excellent.
[0078]
(Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2)
A high-density woven fabric was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that polylactic acid P1 containing no EBA was used. Although the fabric obtained in Comparative Example 1 had good spinnability, fluff was generated during false twisting and weaving. Further, the obtained high-density woven fabric was very bad as the first grade because the surface of the woven fabric was shaved by the friction fastness test and the color transfer was severe. In addition, the fabric obtained in Comparative Example 2 using polylactic acid P3 containing 6% by weight of EBA as it is has excellent friction fastness, but the color tone b * value after scouring is 5.6 and yellowish The saturation after dyeing was also reduced. Further, dyed spots were seen on the textile product, and the quality was poor.
[0079]
(Example 4)
A high-density fabric was prepared under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that polylactic acid P4 was used instead of polylactic acid P2 and the chips were blended (SS1 wt%) so that the weight ratio was P1: P4 = 4: 1. Obtained. In addition, the spinnability was good, there was almost no smoke immediately below the base, and there was no problem. Further, both false twisting and weaving were good. Moreover, the fastness to friction of the obtained high-density fabric was grade 3, which was inferior to the high-density fabric obtained in Example 1, but at a level causing no problem in practice. Other characteristics were excellent as in the case of the high-density fabric obtained in Example 1.
[0080]
(Comparative Example 3)
A high-density fabric was prepared under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that polylactic acid P5 was used instead of polylactic acid P2, and the chips were blended (SA 1 wt%) so that the weight ratio was P1: P5 = 4: 1. Obtained. In Comparative Example 3, the fuming was severe under the base during spinning, and the working environment was extremely deteriorated. Further, hot plate contamination was severe even in false twisting, and the process stability was poor. Furthermore, the high-density fabric of Comparative Example 3 was inferior in quality because the friction fastness was second grade and did not reach the practical level, and there were stained spots.
[0081]
(Example 5)
It implemented on the same conditions as Example 1 except having changed the warp density and the weft density of the raw machine as follows. In Example 5 where the weaving density in the raw machine was 158 warps / 2.54 cm and 113 wefts / 2.54 cm, the weaving densities after finishing set were 170 / 2.54 cm and 116 / 2.54 cm, respectively. Met. The high-density woven fabric obtained in Example 5 was further improved in water pressure resistance performance as compared to the high-density woven fabric obtained in Example 1, and other properties were also excellent.
[0082]
(Comparative Example 4)
It implemented on the same conditions as Example 1 except having changed the warp density and the weft density of the raw machine as follows. In Comparative Example 4 in which the weaving density in the raw machine was 113 warps / 2.54 cm and 93 wefts / 2.54 cm, the weaving densities after finishing set were 122 / 2.54 cm and 95 / 2.54 cm, respectively. Met. The high-density fabric obtained in Comparative Example 4 had low water pressure resistance, and lacked practicality as a non-coated fabric.
[0083]
(Example 6, Example 7)
It implemented on the same conditions as Example 1 except having changed the warp density and the weft density of the raw machine as follows. In Example 6 where the weaving density in the raw machine was 158 warps / 2.54 cm and 98 wefts / 2.54 cm, the weaving densities after finishing set were 170 / 2.54 cm and 100 / 2.54 cm, respectively. Met. The high-density fabric obtained in Example 6 had slightly lower weft tear strength, but the other characteristics were excellent as in the high-density fabric obtained in Example 1. Further, the high-density fabric obtained in Example 7 in which the weaving density in the raw machine was 130 warps / 2.54 cm and 112 wefts / 2.54 cm was compared with the high-density fabric obtained in Example 1. As a result, the water pressure decreased slightly, and a slightly rough feel was exhibited, but the other characteristics were good.
[0084]
(Example 8)
The undrawn yarn obtained in Example 1 was processed at a processing speed of 800 m / min using a general-purpose first hot roll, second hot roll, and third cold roll, and a first hot roll temperature of 100 ° C. Drawing was performed at a second hot roll temperature of 130 ° C. and a draw ratio of 1.25 times to obtain a drawn yarn of 80 dtex and 120 filaments (single fiber fineness 0.67 dtex). There was no yarn breakage or fluffing during stretching, and the stretchability was good. When the physical properties of the obtained drawn yarn were measured, the strength was 3.5 cN / dtex, the elongation was 28%, and the boiling water shrinkage was 10%, indicating good mechanical properties. Further, this stretched yarn was subjected to S twist at a twist number of 300 T / m, and a plain weave fabric was produced using the twisted yarn as warp and weft. The warp density of the green machine was 150 / 2.54 cm and 108 wefts / 2.54 cm. Further, this raw machine was subjected to dyeing and water repellent treatment under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a textile product.
[0085]
The b * value of scouring of the obtained high-density fabric was 2.8, indicating a good color tone. The weaving densities of the finished finished woven fabric products were warp 164 / 2.54 cm, weft 114 / 2.54 cm, WCF 1467 and FCF 1020, respectively, and FCF / WCF was 0.70. The rub fastness of this fabric was measured and it was grade 4, and it had good abrasion resistance. Also, the water pressure resistance is 1330mm, H₂O showed sufficient water repellency and a texture with excellent flexibility.
[0086]
Example 9
A woven product was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the base and the discharge amount were changed so that the fineness configuration after false twisting was 80 dtex and 66 filaments (single fiber fineness 1.2 dtex). The high-density fabric obtained in Example 9 had good spinnability, false twistability, and weaving property. Further, the obtained high-density woven fabric was excellent in abrasion fastness with 4th degree of friction fastness, and color development was superior to that in Example 1.
[0087]
(Example 10)
A woven product was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the base and the discharge amount were changed so that the fineness configuration after false twisting was 80 dtex and 36 filaments (single fiber fineness 2.2 dtex). The high-density fabric obtained in Example 10 was good in spinnability, false twisting and weaving properties. Further, the obtained high-density woven fabric was excellent in abrasion fastness with 4th degree of friction fastness, and color development was also superior to that of Example 1.
[0088]
The above results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.
[0089]
[Table 1]

[0090]
[Table 2]

[0091]
In the table, WCF is a warp cover factor, FCF is a weft cover factor, and WFC / FCF is a warp cover factor / weft cover factor.
[0092]
【The invention's effect】
According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a high-density fabric made of polylactic acid fiber having excellent flexibility and wear resistance while realizing waterproof performance and good finish after sewing. In addition, from the high-density woven fabric having water repellency and wear resistance of the present invention, it is possible to produce a non-coated garment having excellent practical durability, flexibility and good tailoring after sewing.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing a spinning apparatus preferably used in the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
1: Hopper
2: Extruder
3: Spinning block
4: Spin pack
5: Spinneret
6: Suction device
7: Cooling chimney
8: Refueling device
9: Entanglement nozzle
10: First godet roll
11: Second godet roll
12: Winding device
13: Cheese package

Claims (5)

A multifilament having a monofilament fineness of 2.4 dtex or less comprising polylactic acid containing a fatty acid bisamide and / or an alkyl-substituted fatty acid monoamide in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight based on the fiber weight was used for warp and / or weft. A high-density fabric characterized in that the total fineness of the weft is equal to or greater than the total fineness of the warp and the cover factor (WCF) of the warp is equal to or greater than 1100. The high-density fabric according to claim 1, wherein the cover factor (WCF) of the warp and the cover factor (FCF) of the weft satisfy the following formula. 0.60 ≦ FCF / WCF ≦ 0.78 The high-density fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the total fineness of the warp and / or the weft is a multifilament of 50 to 170 dtex. The high-density fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the warp and / or the weft is a crimped yarn. The high-pressure fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the water-proof pressure after the water-repellent treatment of the fabric is 800 mm water column or more.

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