JP4183665B2 - Lip cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a lip cosmetic, and more specifically, a lip cosmetic excellent in pigment dispersibility, feeling during use, gloss during application, durability of moisturizing, and durability of makeup effect. About.

Conventionally, various studies have been made to enhance the makeup effect sustainability of lip cosmetics. Among them, a wide range of methods have been widely adopted in which volatile oils such as volatile silicones and volatile hydrocarbon oils are blended with resins such as silicone resins, and the cosmetic effect is sustained by a resin film formed after volatilization of the volatile oil. ing. However, with this method, it is difficult to avoid the dryness of the lips caused by volatile oil, the loss of glossiness of the makeup film, and the uncomfortable feeling of the lips caused by the resin film. As a result, it is possible to obtain a comprehensively satisfactory quality as a lip cosmetic. Is not done. Accordingly, the present inventors have proposed an oily cosmetic that improves the sustainability of the cosmetic effect while avoiding these drawbacks by using fluorine polyether co-modified silicone (hereinafter abbreviated as FPD) (see Patent Document 1). .

However, although the persistence of the cosmetic effect has been enhanced by the use of FPD, high-viscosity hydrocarbon oils such as hydrogenated polyisobutene and FPD most commonly used to achieve a high level of gloss when lip cosmetics are applied. As a result, the high-viscosity hydrocarbon oil could hardly be blended, and as a result, the gloss level in the cosmetic effect was not sufficiently satisfactory. So, instead of hydrogenated polyisobutene, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate, diglyceryl triisostearate, etc. were realized to increase the gloss at the time of application, but it is still not sufficient, It was not excellent in the dispersibility of the pigment and the sustainability of the moist feeling. Therefore, it has been desired to develop a lip cosmetic that is realized at a high level simultaneously with respect to the dispersibility of the pigment, the feeling of use at the time of application, the gloss at the time of application, the durability of the moisturizing feeling, and the durability of the cosmetic effect.

  A liquid ester composition obtained by esterifying dipentaerythritol with a branched isostearic acid represented by the following general formula (2) is a high-viscosity ester oil, and is a general ester oil used in lip cosmetics. In comparison, it has been known that the viscosity is extremely high, and the formulation improves the pigment dispersibility of the lip cosmetic, the gloss when applied, and the persistence of the moist feeling. However, the effect of using these together with FPD has not been known at all.

（式中、Ｒ^６及びＲ^７は炭素数７の分岐の炭化水素を示し、同じであっても異なっていても良い。）

(In the formula, R ⁶ and R ⁷ represent branched hydrocarbons having 7 carbon atoms, and may be the same or different.)

JP 7-2333026 A

  Under such circumstances, an object of the present invention is to provide a lip cosmetic excellent in pigment dispersibility, feeling during use, gloss during application, durability of moisturizing, and durability of makeup effect. It is in.

That is, this invention exists in the lip cosmetics containing the following component (A) and (B).
(A) General formula (1)

（但し、ｌ、ｍ、ｎは整数であって、ｌ＝０〜５００、ｍ＝１〜５００、ｎ＝１〜５００であり、Ｒ^１は同種、異種の非置換若しくは置換の炭素数１〜２０のアルキル基またはアリール基であり、Ｒ^２は炭素数１〜１０のフッ素置換アルキル基であり、Ｒ^３は−Ｃ_ｐＨ_２ｐＯ（Ｃ_２Ｈ_４Ｏ）_ａ（Ｃ_３Ｈ_６Ｏ）_ｂＲ^５で示されるポリオキシアルキレン基であり、Ｒ^４はＲ^１、Ｒ^２またはＲ^３のいずれかであり、Ｒ^５は水素原子、炭素数１〜５のアルキル基またはアセチル基であり、ａ、ｂ、ｐは整数であって、ａ＝０〜１００、ｂ＝０〜１００、ａ＋ｂは１以上であり、ｐ＝２〜６である。）で表されるフッ素ポリエーテル共変性シリコーン
（Ｂ）ジペンタエリスリトールに、次の一般式（２）で示される分岐型イソステアリン酸をエステル化して得られる液状エステル組成物であって、２５℃における粘度が１０万〜２００万ｍＰａ・ｓ、水酸基価が１０〜１６０、曇り点が５℃未満であることを特徴とする液状エステル組成物。
また、本発明は、前記（Ａ）成分の配合量が得られる口唇化粧料全量に対し、０．１〜４０質量％かつ、前記（Ｂ）成分の配合量が得られる口唇化粧料全量に対し、１〜８０質量％である前記口唇化粧料に関する。

(However, l, m, and n are integers, and l = 0 to 500, m = 1 to 500, and n = ^{1 to} 500, and R ¹ is the same or different, unsubstituted or substituted carbon number 1 to 500. 20 is an alkyl group or an aryl group, R ² is a fluorine-substituted alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and R ³ is —C _p H _2p O (C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O). _b R is a polyoxyalkylene group represented by ^{5, R 4} is any of ^R 1, ^{R 2} or ^{R 3, R 5} is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or an acetyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a, b, p are integers, a = 0 to 100, b = 0 to 100, a + b is 1 or more, and p = 2 to 6). B) Dipentaerythritol and branched isostear represented by the following general formula (2) A liquid ester composition obtained by esterifying an acid, characterized by having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 100,000 to 2,000,000 mPa · s, a hydroxyl value of 10 to 160, and a cloud point of less than 5 ° C. Liquid ester composition.
Moreover, the present invention is 0.1 to 40% by mass with respect to the total amount of the lip cosmetic in which the blending amount of the component (A) is obtained, and is based on the total amount of the lip cosmetic in which the blending amount of the component (B) is obtained. 1 to 80% by mass of the lip cosmetic.

（式中、Ｒ^６及びＲ^７は炭素数７の分岐の炭化水素基を示し、同じであっても異なっていても良い。）

(Wherein R ⁶ and R ⁷ represent a branched hydrocarbon group having 7 carbon atoms, and may be the same or different.)

  According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a lip cosmetic excellent in pigment dispersibility, feeling during use, gloss during application, durability of moisturizing, and durability of makeup effect.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The R ¹ group, R ² group, R ³ group, and R ⁵ group of FPD used in the present invention include the following. As R ¹ group, alkyl group such as methyl group, ethyl group, propyl group, pentyl group, hexyl group, heptyl group, octyl group, nonyl group, decyl group, cycloalkyl group such as cyclopentyl group, cyclohexyl group, phenyl group And aryl groups such as a tolyl group, preferably a methyl group.

Examples of the R ² group include a trifluoropropyl group, a nanofluorohexyl group, and a heptadecafluorodecyl group, and a trifluoropropyl group is preferable.

The R ³ groups, as consisting of only ethylene _{oxide, -C 3 H 6 O (C} 2 H 4 O) 5 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 10 H, -C 3 H _{6 O (C 2 H 4 O} ) 20 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 50 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 100 H, -C 3 H 6 O _{(C 2 H 4 O) 5} CH 3, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 10 C 2 H 5, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 20 C 3 H 7, - _{C 3 H 6 O (C 2} H 4 O) 50 C 4 H 9, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 100 C 5 H 11, -CH 2 CH (CH 3) CH 2 O (C _{2 H 4 O) 3 H,} -CH 2 CH 2 CH (CH 3) O (C 2 H 4 O) 10 CH 3, -CH 2 CH 2 C (CH 3) 2 O _{C 2 H 4 O) 20 C} 4 H 9 and the like. Further, as consisting of only propylene _{oxide, -C 3 H 6 O (C} 3 H 6 O) 5 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 3 H 6 O) 10 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C _{3 H 6 O) 20 H,} -C 3 H 6 O (C 3 H 6 O) 50 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 3 H 6 O) 100 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 3 H _{6 O) 5 CH 3, -C} 3 H 6 O (C 3 H 6 O) 10 C 2 H 5, -C 3 H 6 O (C 3 H 6 O) 20 C 3 H 7, -C 3 H 6 _{O (C 3 H 6 O)} 50 C 4 H 9, -C 3 H 6 O (C 3 H 6 O) 100 C 5 H 11, -CH 2 CH (CH 3) CH 2 O (C 3 H 6 O ) ₃ H, —CH ₂ CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O (CH ₃ H ₆ O) ₁₀ CH ₃ , —CH ₂ CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ O (C ₃ ) H ₆ O) ₂₀ C ₄ H _{9 and the} like. Ethylene oxide, the copolymer of propylene _{oxide, -C 3 H 6 O (C} 2 H 4 O) 5 (C 3 H 6 O) 5 H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 20 _{(C 3 H 6 O) 20} H, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 10 (C 3 H 6 O) 20 CH 3, -C 3 H 6 O (C 2 H 4 O) 20 ( _{C 3 H 6 O) 10 CH} 3, -CH 2 CH (CH 3) CH 2 O (C 2 H 4 O) 50 (C 3 H 6 O) 20 C 4 H 9, -CH 2 CH 2 CH (CH _{^{3) O (C 2 H 4}} O) 10 (C 3 H 6 O) 100 H, -CH 2 CH 2 C (CH 3) 2 O (C 2 H 4 O) 100 (C 3 H 6 O) 10 CH ₃ etc. are mentioned. Here, the ethylene oxide unit and the propylene oxide unit may be a block copolymer or a random copolymer.

Examples of the R ⁵ group include a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a butyl group, and a pentyl group, or an acetyl group.

  The blending amount of the FPD used in the present invention is 0.1 to 40% by mass, more preferably 1 to 30% by mass, and still more preferably, based on the total amount of cosmetics, from the viewpoint of the degree of effect and the stability of the cosmetics Is 3 to 25% by mass.

  Component (B) used in the present invention is a liquid ester composition obtained by esterifying dipentaerythritol with a branched isostearic acid represented by the following general formula (2) by a known method, A liquid ester composition having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 100,000 to 2,000,000 mPa · s, a hydroxyl value of 10 to 160, and a cloud point of less than 5 ° C.

（式中、Ｒ^６及びＲ^７は炭素数７の分岐の炭化水素基を示し、同じであっても異なっていても良い．）

(Wherein R ⁶ and R ⁷ represent a branched hydrocarbon group having 7 carbon atoms, and may be the same or different.)

  More specifically, for example, dipentaerythritol and 2- (1,3,3-trimethyl) butyl-5,7,7-trimethyloctanoic acid (multi-branched isostearic acid) of 10:35 to 10:90 are used. After being charged at a mass ratio and subjected to an esterification reaction, it can be obtained by removing low molecular components such as unreacted raw materials by adsorption treatment, filtration, distillation or the like.

  The blending amount of this component (B) is 1 to 80% by mass, more preferably 3 to 60% by mass, and still more preferably 5% based on the total amount of cosmetics from the viewpoint of the degree of effect to be exhibited and the feeling of use such as spreading. -50 mass% is suitable. If it is less than 1% by mass, the gloss at the time of application is not sufficient, and if it exceeds 80% by mass, the elongation at the time of application becomes heavy, which is not preferable.

  The lip cosmetic of the present invention includes solid oily components such as paraffin, ceresin, polyethylene wax, ethylene propylene copolymer, candelilla wax, microcrystalline wax, and palmiticin in addition to the above essential components, as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired. Oily gelling agents such as acid dextrin, 12-hydroxystearic acid, petrolatum, phytosteryl oleate, dimerlinoleic acid hydrogenated castor oil, dimerlinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) and other paste oils , Hydrogenated polyisobutene, squalane, glyceryl tri (capryl / caprin), octyldodecanol, dilauroylglutamate (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl), octyl hydroxystearate, dimethylpolysiloxane Liquid oily components such as methylphenylpolysiloxane, inorganic coloring pigments such as titanium oxide and iron oxide, organic dyes such as red No. 202 and yellow No. 4, and lakes thereof, mica titanium, bengara-coated mica titanium, titanium oxide-coated glass Bright colored pigments such as flakes, powder components such as mica, nylon powder and cross-linked silicone powder, preservatives, fragrances, plant extracts, antioxidants and the like can be blended.

  The lip cosmetic of the present invention can be molded, filled and the like after producing a semi-finished product according to a conventional production method such as dissolution, powder dispersion, and mixing. Specific examples include lipstick and lip gloss.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. The methods and evaluation items used in the present invention are as follows. In addition,% shown in an Example and a comparative example is the mass%.

(1) Uniform dispersibility confirmation test method 100 g of a semi-finished product before molding and filling is put in a beaker and completely dissolved at 80 to 90 ° C. Keep for a minute. Thereafter, stirring was stopped while maintaining at 80 ° C., and whether or not oily component separation, pigment aggregation and sedimentation occurred within 5 minutes after stopping the stirring was confirmed silently and evaluated according to the following.

No separation of oily components, pigment aggregation, no settling; ○
Oily component separation, pigment aggregation, sedimentation; x
(Although uniform dispersibility was evaluated as x, usage characteristics were not evaluated.)

(2) Test method for evaluating characteristics of use Applying Examples and Comparative Examples to the lips of 20 female panelists, feel at the time of application, gloss at the time of application, persistence of moist feeling after 3 hours, 3 hours We received 5 grades from 5 points to 1 point on the items of the long-lasting makeup effect. In that case, the evaluation of each item about the comparative example 1 was made into 3 points | pieces, and it was set as the better evaluation that the score is high. And the average of the scores given by 20 people was used as the score of the example or comparative example (rounded off to the second decimal place).

<Preparation method>
Components 1 to 19 are uniformly dissolved and mixed, components 20 to 22 are added and kneaded, and then 23 to 25 are added and uniformly dispersed to obtain a semi-finished product. The semi-finished product is deaerated, poured into a mold, solidified by cooling, and inserted into a container to obtain the desired lip cosmetic (lipstick).

<Examples 1-4, Comparative Examples 1-6 (lipstick)>
The component composition and evaluation test results are shown in Table 1.

  The general formulas (3), (4), (5), (6) and Production Examples 1 to 3 described in Table 1 are as follows.

Production Example 1 [Production of liquid ester composition 1 obtained by esterifying dipentaerythritol and 2- (1,3,3-trimethyl) butyl-5,7,7-trimethyloctanoic acid]
279 g (1.1 mol) of dipentaerythritol [trade name: dipentarit, manufactured by Guangei Chemical Co., Ltd.] in a 3 L four-neck flask equipped with a stirrer, thermometer, nitrogen gas blowing tube, and water separation tube 2- (1,3,3-trimethyl) butyl-5,7,7-trimethyloctanoic acid [trade name: isostearic acid, manufactured by Nissan Chemical Industries, Ltd.] 1874 g (6.6 mol) was charged (raw material charge) Mass ratio = 10: 67.2). Thereafter, 0.1% by mass of dibutyltin oxide (catalyst) and 5% by mass of xylene (refluxing solvent) of the total charge amount were added, and the reaction was performed at 200 to 250 ° C. for about 36 hours while stirring. After completion of the reaction, xylene as a refluxing solvent was distilled off under reduced pressure. The reaction product from which xylene was removed was adsorbed with activated clay, then cooled to about 60 ° C., filtered, and deodorized and distilled by a conventional method to obtain 1399 g of liquid ester composition 1.
Liquid ester composition 1 had an acid value of 0.3, a hydroxyl value of 32, a freezing point and a cloud point of -30 ° C or lower, and a viscosity at 25 ° C of 180,000 mPa · s. The viscosity was measured using a Brookfield viscometer (BH type) at 25 ° C. with rotor No. 6 and measured at 4 rpm.

Production Example 2 [Production of liquid ester composition 2 obtained by esterifying dipentaerythritol and 2- (1,3,3-trimethyl) butyl-5,7,7-trimethyloctanoic acid]
Dipentaerythritol [trade name: Di-Pentalit, manufactured by Koei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.] 58.4 g (0.23) was added to a 3 L four-round flask equipped with a stirrer, thermometer, nitrogen gas blowing tube, and water separation tube. Mol) and 2- (1,3,3-trimethyl) butyl-5,7,7-trimethyloctanoic acid [trade name: isostearic acid, manufactured by Nissan Chemical Industries, Ltd.] 293.9 g (1.03 mol) Charged (raw material charge mass ratio = 10: 50.3). Thereafter, 0.05% by mass of dibutyltin oxide (catalyst) and 5% by mass of xylene (refluxing solvent) were added to the total charged amount, and the reaction was performed at 200 to 250 ° C. for about 21 hours while stirring. After completion of the reaction, xylene as a refluxing solvent was distilled off under reduced pressure. The reaction product from which xylene was removed was adsorbed with activated clay, then cooled to about 60 ° C., filtered, and subjected to deodorization / distillation treatment by a conventional method to obtain 245 g of liquid ester composition 2.
The acid value of the liquid ester composition 2 was 0.2, the hydroxyl value was 81, the freezing point was −16 ° C., and it was not cloudy even at −30 ° C. Moreover, the viscosity in 25 degreeC was 350,000 mPa * s. The viscosity was measured using a Brookfield viscometer (BH type) at 25 ° C. with rotor No. 6 and measured at 2 rpm.

Production Example 3 [Production of liquid ester composition 3 obtained by esterifying dipentaerythritol and 2- (1,3,3-trimethyl) butyl-5,7,7-trimethyloctanoic acid]
Dipentaerythritol [trade name: dipentarit, manufactured by Guangei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.] 63.5 g (0.25 mol) in a 3 L four-neck flask equipped with a stirrer, thermometer, nitrogen gas blowing tube, and water separation tube ) And 2- (1,3,3-trimethyl) butyl-5,7,7-trimethyloctanoic acid [trade name: isostearic acid, manufactured by Nissan Chemical Industries, Ltd.] 248.5 g (0.88 mol) (Raw material charge mass ratio = 10: 39.1). Thereafter, 0.05% by mass of dibutyltin oxide (catalyst) and 5% by mass of xylene (refluxing solvent) were added to the total charged amount, and the reaction was carried out at 200 to 250 ° C. for about 14 hours while stirring. After completion of the reaction, xylene as a refluxing solvent was distilled off under reduced pressure. The reaction product from which xylene was removed was adsorbed with activated clay, then cooled to about 60 ° C., filtered, and deodorized and distilled by a conventional method to obtain 185 g of liquid ester composition 3.
Liquid ester composition 3 had an acid value of 0.2, a hydroxyl value of 140, a freezing point of -12 ° C, and was not cloudy even at -30 ° C. Moreover, the viscosity in 25 degreeC was 15.58 million mPa * s. The viscosity was measured using a Brookfield viscometer (BH type) at 25 ° C. with rotor No. 7 and measured at 2 rpm.

  As shown in Table 1, those of Examples 1 to 4 of the present invention are compared in terms of pigment dispersibility, feeling during use, gloss during application, durability of moisturizing, and durability of cosmetic effect. It was clearly superior to those of Examples 1-6.

<Example 5 (lip gloss)>
Dextrin palmitate 5.0
Octyl hydrostearate residual amount α-olefin oligomer 3.0
Hydrogenated polyisobutene 10.0
Lauroyl glutamate (Phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) 10.0
FPD: General formula (3) 3.0
Liquid ester composition 1 of Production Example 1 30.0
Lauroyllysine-treated red 20l 0.1
Lauroyllysine-treated mica titanium 4.0

  The lip gloss of Example 5 was excellent in the dispersibility of the pigment, the feeling of use at the time of application, the gloss at the time of application, the persistence of the moist feeling, and the sustainability of the cosmetic effect.

  As described above, the product of the present invention can provide a lip cosmetic that is extremely excellent with respect to the dispersibility of the pigment, the feeling of use at the time of application, the gloss at the time of application, the durability of the moisturizing effect, and the durability of the makeup effect.

Claims (2)

The following components (A) and (B):
(A) A fluoropolyether co-modified silicone represented by the general formula (1).

(However, l, m, and n are integers, and l = 0 to 500, m = 1 to 500, and n = ^{1 to} 500, and R ¹ is the same or different, unsubstituted or substituted carbon number 1 to 500. 20 is an alkyl group or an aryl group, R ² is a fluorine-substituted alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and R ³ is —C _p H _2p O (C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O). _b R is a polyoxyalkylene group represented by ^{5, R 4} is any of ^R 1, ^{R 2} or ^{R 3, R 5} is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or an acetyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a, b and p are integers, a = 0 to 100, b = 0 to 100, a + b is 1 or more, and p = 2 to 6.)
(B) A liquid ester composition obtained by esterifying dipentaerythritol with branched isostearic acid represented by the following general formula (2) .
Lip cosmetics characterized by containing lipase.

(In the formula, R ⁶ and R ⁷ represent branched hydrocarbons having 7 carbon atoms, and may be the same or different.) The lip cosmetic according to claim 1, comprising 0.1 to 40% by mass of the component (A) with respect to the total amount of the lip cosmetic, and 1 to 80% by mass of the component (B) with respect to the total amount of the lip cosmetic.