JP3928773B2 - Elastic knitted fabric - Google Patents
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- JP3928773B2 JP3928773B2 JP2001320738A JP2001320738A JP3928773B2 JP 3928773 B2 JP3928773 B2 JP 3928773B2 JP 2001320738 A JP2001320738 A JP 2001320738A JP 2001320738 A JP2001320738 A JP 2001320738A JP 3928773 B2 JP3928773 B2 JP 3928773B2
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Description
【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、弾性糸を含む伸縮性編み地、さらに詳しくは、大型サイズの衣服を効率的に得ることができる伸縮性編み地に関する。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
近年、セーター、スポーツ衣料などに使用される伸縮性編み地において、高伸縮性、低緊迫性が求められる衣服サイズの大型化への要求がある。
このような大型サイズの衣服を効率的に製造するためには、幅が大きい編み地が必要とされている。
【０００３】
しかしながら、高伸縮性が必要とされる編地としては一般にポリウレタン弾性糸を交編したものが多用されており、そのため布帛の収縮性が極めて大きく、従来の伸縮性編み地では、大型サイズの衣服を効率的に製造することができていなかった。
【０００４】
また無理に幅が大きい編み地を得ようとし、後加工工程において、伸長した状態で長時間高温の熱セットを行うと、相手素材の変色、風合いが堅くなるなどの不具合が生じる。特に相手素材が綿、アクリル、羊毛、絹等である場合に顕著となり、結果として得られた編み地は著しく変色する又は風合いが著しく堅くなる。
【０００５】
こうした不具合を解決する手段として、弾性糸の低温セット化の試みが行われているが、市場で多く用いられている従来のポリウレタン弾性糸では、変色することなく、風合いが良好で、かつ効率的に大型サイズ衣服を製造するために必要な幅を持つ伸縮性編地を得ることができなかった。
【０００６】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、大型サイズ衣服を効率的に製造することができる伸縮性編み地を提供することを目的とする。
【０００７】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明は、以下の条件を満たす伸縮性編み地に関する。
(I)繊度７８ｄｔｅｘ以下の弾性糸を１５重量％以上含む複合弾性糸を少なくとも３重量%以上含み、かつウェール密度が３０ウェール／インチ以下であり、かつ該複合弾性糸が、弾性糸弾性糸を１．５以下のドラフト倍率でドラフトして非弾性糸を被覆したカバリング糸であることを特徴とする伸縮性編地。
(II)該複合弾性糸に含まれる弾性糸がポリウレタン弾性糸であり、該ポリウレタン弾性糸が下記(１)〜(４)の条件を満足することを特徴とする伸縮性編地の製造方法に関する。
(1)小角X線散乱測定における方位角スキャンの最大ピーク強度の半価幅のなす角度が６０度以上。
(2)小角X線散乱測定における赤道芳香の半価幅のなす角が２．５度以下。
(3)熱応力測定における最大収縮応力ピーク温度が１３５℃以下。
(4)下式２式に示した乾熱セット率が１２０℃において６５%以上。
［数2］ PSD (%) = (L2-L1)/L1 × １００(式中、L1は処理前の糸長、L2は処理後の糸長を表す)。
【０００８】
本発明者らは、まず現状の伸縮性編み地が大型サイズの衣服を効率的に製造するために必要な幅が得られない原因について調査をおこなった結果、弾性糸を含む現状の伸縮性編み地は熱セットが効果的になされず、仕上がった編み地は熱セッターにセットされた幅から大きく収縮しているため、ウェール密度が高くなっていることが明らかとなった。
【０００９】
本発明者らは、熱セットが効果的になされ、熱セッターにセットされた幅からの収縮を抑制し、ウェール密度を低くする編み地について鋭意検討した結果、本発明に至った。
【００１０】
すなわち、弾性糸に非弾性糸を巻き付けて成るカバリング糸を作成するに際し、繊度７８dtex以下、好ましくは４４dtex以下の弾性糸が１５重量％以上を占めるドラフトで作成し、該カバリング糸を伸縮性編み地を構成する複合弾性糸として３重量％以上の混率とすることにより、良好な熱セット性を有する伸縮性編み地となり、仕上げ生地のウェール密度が３０ウェール/インチ以下の伸縮性編み地を得ることを見いだした。
得られたウェール密度が３０ウェール／インチ以下の伸縮性編み地を用いることにより、効率的に大型サイズの衣服を製造することができた。
【００１１】
複合弾性糸に用いる弾性糸の繊度が大きくなると、編み地の収縮力が大きくなるためウェール密度が高くなる傾向があり、ウェール密度を３０ウェール/インチ以下にすることは困難となるため、弾性糸の繊度は７８dtex以下が好ましい。
【００１２】
また複合弾性糸に含まれる弾性糸の量が１５％以上となるドラフト条件でカバリングが行われないと、編み地の熱セット性が低下するため、目的とする布帛が得られない。
【００１３】
さらに伸縮性編み地における複合弾性糸の混率は低くなるほどウェール密度が小さくなる傾向があるが、３％以下であると十分な伸縮特性が得られない。より好ましくは５％以上の混率である。
【００１４】
上記の複合弾性糸に用いる弾性糸は以下の条件を満たすポリウレタン弾性糸が好ましい。
(1)小角X線散乱測定における方位角スキャンの最大ピーク強度の半価幅のなす角度が６０度以上。
(2)小角X線散乱測定における赤道芳香の半価幅のなす角が２．５度以下。
(3)熱応力測定における最大収縮応力ピーク温度が１３５℃以下。
(4)下式２式に示した乾熱セット率が１２０℃において６５%以上。
［数2］ PSD (%) = (L2-L1)/L1 × １００
(式中、L1は処理前の糸長、L2は処理後の糸長を表す)。
【００１５】
上記の条件を満たすポリウレタン弾性糸を用いれば、更に効率的に大型サイズの衣服を得ることができる伸縮性編み地がえられ、また複合弾性糸と組み合わせる素材が綿、アクリル、羊毛、絹のような、高温の熱セットができない素材であっても、ウェール密度が３０ウェール/インチ以下の伸縮性編み地を得ることが可能となる。
【００１６】
本発明にかかる伸縮性編地に用いるポリウレタン弾性糸の小角X線散乱測定における方位角スキャンの最大ピーク強度の半価幅のなす角が６０度以上であることが望ましい。ここで言う、小角X線散乱測定における方位角スキャンの最大ピーク強度の半価幅のなす角とは、方位角スキャン測定を行い得られた回折像写真の中心と最大ピーク強度の半価幅とのなす角である。
【００１７】
６０度未満であると主としてウレタンハードセグメントからなる結晶領域の配向性が高くなるため、収縮力が過大となり、ひいてはウェール密度が高くなるからである。本発明では、結晶領域の配向性をあえて乱すことにより、繊維軸方向に歪みが生じる際に比較的低応力で歪み変形するポリウレタン弾性糸となすものである。好ましくは７５〜８５度である。
【００１８】
本発明にかかるポリウレタン弾性糸は上記特徴に加えて小角X線散乱測定における赤道方向の半価幅のなす角が２．５度以下である構造を有するものである。ここで言う小角X線散乱測定における赤道方向の半価幅のなす角とは、回折像写真における子午線方向の散乱の赤道方向の半値幅とサンプルから作られる二等辺三角形の頂角である。２．５度を超えると結晶領域、特に繊維軸方向に対して横方向の成長が不十分となり得られた糸の強伸度が低くなり実用上に問題が生じる。好ましくは０．８度以上２．５度以下、更に好ましくは０．８度以上１．５度以下である。０．８度未満ではウレタンハードセグメントからなる結晶領域の、特に繊維軸方向の広がりが大きくなり、伸縮力が過大となり、ひいてはウェール密度を低くする妨げとなるからである。
【００１９】
本発明にかかる伸縮性編地用いるポリウレタン弾性糸の熱応力測定における最大収縮応力ピーク温度は１３５度以下であることが望ましい。１３５度を超えると、アクリル及びウール、綿、絹等の素材と組み合わせた場合、これらの素材の適正加工条件で十分なセット性が得られず、目的とするウェール密度に仕上げることが困難となるからである。従って最大収縮応力ピーク温度は低温であるほど望ましく、１３０以下、更には１１５度以下、更には１００度以下が好ましい
【００２０】
本発明にかかるポリウレタン弾性糸の熱セット性は１２０℃での乾熱セット性(PSD１２０)が６５％以上であることが望ましい。このような特性を持つポリウレタン弾性糸ではアクリル及びウール、面、絹等の素材と組み合わせた場合、これらの素材の適正条件での十分なセット性を得ることが出来るからである。すなわちPSD１２０が６５％未満であれば後加工工程においてプリセット行程等乾熱処理下の熱セット性が不良となり、目的とするウェール密度に仕上げることができない。好ましくはPSDが７０％以上である。
【００２１】
［実施例］
以下、本発明を具体的に説明するが、本発明はこれらの実施例により何ら限定されるものではない。なお、各種測定は、下記の方法に従った。
【００２２】
（小角X線散乱測定）
糸をかせ取りし、約１８００本の束の両端を結んで測定試料とした。写真撮影はRAD RC X線発生装置を用い、点収束カメラでカメラ距離３５０mm、３０分露光で撮影を行った。X線源はCuKα線(Niフィルター使用、波長１．５４１８オングストローム)、出力４０．０ｋｖを用いた。
【００２３】
（熱応力測定）
セイコー電子工業（株）製、SSC＃５２００装置を用いて糸長２ｃｍの一本の糸にデニールあたり、５ｍｇの初期荷重をかけ、昇温速度２０℃/分で測定をおこなった。
【００２４】
（PSD測定法）
初期長２２．５ｃｍ（L1）のポリウレタン弾性糸を１００％伸張下で乾熱１２０℃で一分間処理した後、室温で１０分間放縮、放冷させた後の糸長（L2）を測定し次式により求めた。
PSD(%)=（L2―L1）/L1×１００
【００２５】
以下実施例による発明の詳細を具体的に説明する。
（実施例１、参考例１、比較例１〜３）表１記載の繊度２２dtexのポリウレタン弾性糸を表１に示す倍率でドラフトして１２dtex／５fil のナイロンフィラメントによりエアカバリング糸を作成した。
【００２６】
該カバリング糸を用い、２／４８番手のウール糸で１２ゲージの緯編機で編成を行い、リンキング縫製にてセーターを作成した。その後、４５℃で縮絨を実施後、スチームアイロンにて蒸熱仕上げを行った。
仕上げたセーターのウェール密度及び布帛幅の結果を表.1に示す。
【００２７】
【表１】
実施例はセット後の生地収縮が小さく、大型サイズの衣服(セーター)が効率的に得られた。
比較例はセット後の生地収縮が大きく、大型サイズ衣服が効率的に得られなかった。
【００２９】
【発明の効果】
本発明によると、伸縮特性に優れ、かつ大型サイズの衣服を効率よく裁縫できる伸縮性編み地を得ることができる。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a stretch knitted fabric including elastic yarns, and more particularly to a stretch knitted fabric capable of efficiently obtaining a large-sized garment.
[0002]
[Prior art]
In recent years, stretchable knitted fabrics used for sweaters, sports clothing, and the like have been demanded to increase the size of clothes that require high stretchability and low tension.
In order to efficiently manufacture such a large-sized garment, a knitted fabric having a large width is required.
[0003]
However, as a knitted fabric that requires high stretchability, a fabric knitted with polyurethane elastic yarn is generally used. Therefore, the shrinkage of the fabric is extremely large, and a conventional stretch knitted fabric has a large size. Could not be produced efficiently.
[0004]
In addition, if an attempt is made to obtain a knitted fabric having a large width and heat setting is performed for a long time in a stretched state in a post-processing step, problems such as discoloration of the counterpart material and a firm texture occur. This is particularly noticeable when the mating material is cotton, acrylic, wool, silk, or the like, and the resulting knitted fabric is remarkably discolored or the texture is remarkably stiff.
[0005]
Attempts have been made to set elastic yarns at a low temperature as a means to solve these problems, but conventional polyurethane elastic yarns that are widely used in the market have good texture and are efficient without discoloration. In addition, it was not possible to obtain a stretch knitted fabric having a width necessary for manufacturing a large size garment.
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of this invention is to provide the elastic knitted fabric which can manufacture a large sized garment efficiently.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention relates to a stretch knitted fabric that satisfies the following conditions.
(I) A composite elastic yarn containing 15% by weight or more of an elastic yarn having a fineness of 78 dtex or less, containing at least 3% by weight and a wale density of 30 wal / inch or less, and the composite elastic yarn comprising an elastic yarn elastic yarn A stretchable knitted fabric which is a covering yarn drafted at a draft magnification of 1.5 or less and coated with an inelastic yarn.
(II) The elastic yarn contained in the composite elastic yarn is a polyurethane elastic yarn, and the polyurethane elastic yarn satisfies the following conditions (1) to (4): .
(1) The angle formed by the half width of the maximum peak intensity of the azimuth angle scan in the small angle X-ray scattering measurement is 60 degrees or more.
(2) The angle formed by the half width of the equatorial fragrance in the small-angle X-ray scattering measurement is 2.5 degrees or less.
(3) The maximum shrinkage stress peak temperature in the thermal stress measurement is 135 ° C. or less.
(4) The dry heat set rate shown in the following formula 2 is 65% or more at 120 ° C.
[Formula 2] PSD (%) = (L2−L1) / L1 × 100 (where L1 represents the yarn length before treatment, and L2 represents the yarn length after treatment).
[0008]
As a result of investigating why the current stretch knitted fabric cannot obtain the width necessary for efficiently producing large-sized garments, the present stretch knitted fabric has the current stretch knitting including elastic yarn. The ground was not heat set effectively, and the finished knitted fabric was greatly shrunk from the width set in the heat setter, which revealed that the wale density was high.
[0009]
As a result of intensive studies on the knitted fabric in which the heat setting is effectively performed, the shrinkage from the width set in the heat setter is suppressed, and the wale density is lowered, the present invention has been achieved.
[0010]
That is, when a covering yarn is formed by winding an inelastic yarn around an elastic yarn, the covering yarn is prepared with a draft in which an elastic yarn having a fineness of 78 dtex or less, preferably 44 dtex or less occupies 15% by weight or more. By making the blending ratio of 3% by weight or more as the composite elastic yarn constituting the elastic yarn, it becomes a stretch knitted fabric having a good heat setting property, and a stretch knitted fabric having a finished fabric wale density of 30 wal / inch or less is obtained. I found.
By using the elastic knitted fabric having a wale density of 30 wales / inch or less, a large-sized garment could be efficiently produced.
[0011]
When the fineness of the elastic yarn used for the composite elastic yarn is increased, the shrinkage force of the knitted fabric is increased, so that the wale density tends to increase, and it is difficult to reduce the wale density to 30 wal / inch or less. The fineness is preferably 78 dtex or less.
[0012]
Further, if the covering is not performed under the draft condition in which the amount of the elastic yarn contained in the composite elastic yarn is 15% or more, the heat setting property of the knitted fabric is deteriorated, so that the intended fabric cannot be obtained.
[0013]
Furthermore, the wale density tends to decrease as the mixing ratio of the composite elastic yarn in the stretch knitted fabric decreases, but if it is 3% or less, sufficient stretch properties cannot be obtained. More preferably, the mixing ratio is 5% or more.
[0014]
The elastic yarn used for the composite elastic yarn is preferably a polyurethane elastic yarn satisfying the following conditions.
(1) The angle formed by the half width of the maximum peak intensity of the azimuth angle scan in the small angle X-ray scattering measurement is 60 degrees or more.
(2) The angle formed by the half width of the equatorial fragrance in the small-angle X-ray scattering measurement is 2.5 degrees or less.
(3) The maximum shrinkage stress peak temperature in the thermal stress measurement is 135 ° C. or less.
(4) The dry heat set rate shown in the following formula 2 is 65% or more at 120 ° C.
[Formula 2] PSD (%) = (L2-L1) / L1 x 100
(In the formula, L1 represents the yarn length before treatment, and L2 represents the yarn length after treatment).
[0015]
By using polyurethane elastic yarn that satisfies the above conditions, a stretch knitted fabric can be obtained that can obtain large-sized clothes more efficiently, and the material combined with the composite elastic yarn is cotton, acrylic, wool, silk, etc. Even if it is a material that cannot be heat-set at a high temperature, an elastic knitted fabric having a wale density of 30 wales / inch or less can be obtained.
[0016]
The angle formed by the half-value width of the maximum peak intensity of the azimuth scan in the small-angle X-ray scattering measurement of the polyurethane elastic yarn used in the stretch knitted fabric according to the present invention is desirably 60 degrees or more. The angle formed by the half-value width of the maximum peak intensity of azimuth scan in the small-angle X-ray scattering measurement is the center of the diffraction image photograph obtained by performing azimuth scan measurement and the half-value width of the maximum peak intensity. It is an angle formed by.
[0017]
This is because if it is less than 60 degrees, the orientation of the crystal region mainly composed of the urethane hard segment becomes high, so that the shrinkage force becomes excessive and the wale density becomes high. According to the present invention, the orientation of the crystal region is intentionally disturbed to provide a polyurethane elastic yarn that undergoes strain deformation at a relatively low stress when strain occurs in the fiber axis direction. Preferably it is 75-85 degree | times.
[0018]
In addition to the above characteristics, the polyurethane elastic yarn according to the present invention has a structure in which the angle formed by the half-value width in the equator direction in the small-angle X-ray scattering measurement is 2.5 degrees or less. The angle formed by the half-value width in the equator direction in the small-angle X-ray scattering measurement here is the half-value width in the equator direction of the scattering in the meridian direction in the diffraction image photograph and the apex angle of the isosceles triangle formed from the sample. If it exceeds 2.5 degrees, the crystal region, particularly the lateral growth with respect to the fiber axis direction, will be insufficient, and the resulting yarn will have a low high elongation, resulting in practical problems. Preferably they are 0.8 degree or more and 2.5 degrees or less, More preferably, they are 0.8 degree or more and 1.5 degrees or less. If it is less than 0.8 degrees, the crystal region composed of the urethane hard segment, particularly in the direction of the fiber axis, becomes large, the stretch force becomes excessive, and this hinders the reduction of the wale density.
[0019]
The maximum shrinkage stress peak temperature in the measurement of the thermal stress of the polyurethane elastic yarn used for the stretch knitted fabric according to the present invention is desirably 135 ° C. or less. When it exceeds 135 degrees, when combined with materials such as acrylic and wool, cotton, silk, etc., sufficient setability cannot be obtained under proper processing conditions of these materials, and it becomes difficult to finish to the intended wale density. Because. Therefore, the maximum shrinkage stress peak temperature is preferably as low as possible, and is preferably 130 or less, more preferably 115 degrees or less, and even more preferably 100 degrees or less.
As for the heat setting property of the polyurethane elastic yarn according to the present invention, the dry heat setting property (PSD120) at 120 ° C. is desirably 65% or more. This is because when the polyurethane elastic yarn having such characteristics is combined with materials such as acrylic, wool, surface, and silk, sufficient setability of these materials under appropriate conditions can be obtained. That is, if PSD120 is less than 65%, the heat setting property under a dry heat treatment such as a preset process in the post-processing step becomes poor, and the desired wale density cannot be finished. Preferably, PSD is 70% or more.
[0021]
[Example]
The present invention will be specifically described below, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Various measurements were performed according to the following methods.
[0022]
(Small angle X-ray scattering measurement)
The yarn was scraped off and both ends of about 1800 bundles were tied to obtain a measurement sample. The photograph was taken with a RAD RC X-ray generator using a point convergence camera with a camera distance of 350 mm and 30-minute exposure. As the X-ray source, CuKα ray (using a Ni filter, wavelength 1.5418 angstrom) and output 40.0 kv were used.
[0023]
(Thermal stress measurement)
Using an SSC # 5200 device manufactured by Seiko Denshi Kogyo Co., Ltd., an initial load of 5 mg per denier was applied to a single yarn having a length of 2 cm, and the measurement was performed at a heating rate of 20 ° C./min.
[0024]
(PSD measurement method)
After the polyurethane elastic yarn with an initial length of 22.5 cm (L1) was treated with 100% elongation at a dry heat of 120 ° C. for 1 minute, the yarn length (L2) after being allowed to cool at room temperature for 10 minutes and allowed to cool was measured. It calculated | required by following Formula.
PSD (%) = (L2−L1) / L1 × 100
[0025]
The details of the invention according to the embodiments will be specifically described below.
(Example 1, Reference Example 1, Comparative Examples 1 to 3) A polyurethane elastic yarn having a fineness of 22 dtex described in Table 1 was drafted at a magnification shown in Table 1 to prepare an air covering yarn using a nylon filament of 12 dtex / 5 fil.
[0026]
Using the covering yarn, a 2 / 48th wool yarn was knitted by a 12 gauge weft knitting machine, and a sweater was created by linking sewing. Thereafter, after shrinking at 45 ° C., steam finishing was performed with a steam iron.
Table 1. shows the results of the wale density and fabric width of the finished sweater.
[0027]
[Table 1]
In Examples, the shrinkage of the fabric after setting was small, and a large-sized garment (sweater) was efficiently obtained.
In the comparative example, the fabric shrinkage after setting was large, and large size clothes could not be obtained efficiently.
[0029]
【The invention's effect】
ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the elastic knitted fabric which is excellent in an elastic property and can sew a large sized clothes efficiently can be obtained.
Claims (3)
（１）小角X線散乱測定における方位角スキャンの最大ピーク強度の半価幅のなす角度が６０度以上。
（２）小角X線散乱測定における赤道方向の半価幅のなす角が２．５度以下。
（３）熱応力測定における最大収縮応力ピーク温度が１３５℃以下。
（４）下式２式に示した乾熱セット率が１２０℃において６５%以上。
［数1］ PSD (%) = (L2-L1)/L1 × １００(式中、L1は処理前の糸長、L2は処理後の糸長を表す)。The elastic knitted fabric characterized in that the elastic yarn contained in the composite elastic yarn according to claim 1 is a polyurethane elastic yarn, and the polyurethane elastic yarn satisfies the following conditions (1) to (4).
(1) The angle formed by the half width of the maximum peak intensity of the azimuth scan in the small angle X-ray scattering measurement is 60 degrees or more.
(2) The angle formed by the half width in the equator direction in the small-angle X-ray scattering measurement is 2.5 degrees or less.
(3) The maximum shrinkage stress peak temperature in thermal stress measurement is 135 ° C. or less.
(4) The dry heat setting rate shown in the following formula 2 is 65% or more at 120 ° C.
[Equation 1] PSD (%) = (L2-L1) / L1 × 100 (where L1 represents a yarn length before treatment and L2 represents a yarn length after treatment).
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| JP2001320738A JP3928773B2 (en) | 2001-10-18 | 2001-10-18 | Elastic knitted fabric |
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| JP2001320738A JP3928773B2 (en) | 2001-10-18 | 2001-10-18 | Elastic knitted fabric |
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| JP3928773B2 true JP3928773B2 (en) | 2007-06-13 |
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| CN104264354A (en) * | 2014-10-16 | 2015-01-07 | 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 | 50% cotton, 30% nylon and 20% real silk single-sided large jacquard fabrics and production method thereof |
| CN104389094A (en) * | 2014-10-16 | 2015-03-04 | 嘉兴金凯悦针织面料有限公司 | Single-sided large jacquard fabric containing 52 percent of cotton and 48 percent of real silk and preparation method |
| CN104562405A (en) * | 2015-02-01 | 2015-04-29 | 晋江市科创源专利服务有限公司 | Knitting method of knitted fabric for underwear |
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