JP3781839B2 - Core material clothing - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a core material clothing to which a certain shape retention is given by the core material.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, in order to enhance the effect of underwear for preparing a body shape such as a brassiere, all-in-one, or body suit, an elastic body such as a wire, a whale wing, or plastic is often partially used as a core material. For example, as shown in FIG. 10, a brassiere is widely used in which the shape of the chest is adjusted by sewing an arc-shaped wire 28 to the lower edge portions of the left and right cups 1 and lifting the cup 1 from below. It is circulating.
[0003]
In addition to preparing the body shape, various core material clothing such as medical corsets and sports clothing with protectors are used in various fields.
[0004]
In order to sew the core material into the garment in these core material clothes, the core material is usually inserted into a thin cylindrical tape, and when the fabric is sewn, the tubular tape is applied from the back side and stitched to the fabric. Things have been done. As the cylindrical tape, a double cylindrical shape is usually used in which a pile fabric and a tricot or taffeta fabric are overlapped and the edges thereof are machined. In addition, this double cylinder is configured such that tricot or taffeta fabric is on the inside and pile fabric is on the outside.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
However, the cylindrical tape has a problem that a great deal of labor is required to sew it into a cylindrical shape. In addition, since the inner fabric and the outer fabric are sewn only at one side edge, and the double ring exists in a free state, the core material is passed through the appropriate hollow portion in the core material insertion operation. There is also a problem that the work efficiency is extremely poor. Furthermore, the double cylindrical tape has a thickened edge (sewing margin is folded inward), so that the feeling of wearing becomes worse.
[0006]
In addition, not only is it necessary to sew the tubular tape itself and insert the core material, but also when the core portion is inserted into the tubular tape and the fabric portion is sutured, the entire tubular tape is raised, There is also a problem that it is difficult to sew the edge of the sewing machine with a sewing machine. Therefore, it may be necessary to sew only the empty cylindrical tape with the fabric portion first, and after that, the core material may be inserted into the cylindrical tape to process the end opening, which requires further labor.
[0007]
The present invention has been made in view of such circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide a core dressing material that is easy to sew and excellent in appearance.
[0008]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a core material in which a certain shape-retaining property is imparted to the outer shape by a core material attached to the fabric via a cylindrical tape, A high-shrinkage yarn is knitted in an unshrinked state and is shrunk by heating or chemical treatment to make the stitches dense, and the central part along the longitudinal direction is formed into a hollow cylindrical shape along the longitudinal direction. A core material in which both edge portions are formed in the ridge portion, and the ridge portion of the cylindrical tape and the cloth are stitched and integrated by a sewing machine in a state where the core material is inserted inside the cylindrical tape. The first aspect is clothing.
[0009]
Moreover, let the core material clothing material which the part stitch | sutured to the lower edge part of each cup is sewn in the state bent beforehand circularly as the 2nd summary in the said cylindrical tape.
[0010]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Next, an embodiment of the present invention will be described.
[0011]
FIG. 1 shows an all-in-one which is an embodiment of the present invention. This is provided with a pair of left and right cups 1 for covering the breast and a waist nipper part 2 for tightening the body well, as in a normal all-in-one. The cylindrical tape 4 is stitched to the arcuate portion along the four sides and the four gently curved portions extending in the vertical direction on the side of the body. And the core material (metal wire etc.) for body shape correction | amendment is penetrated inside each cylindrical tape 4. As shown in FIG.
[0012]
As the cylindrical tape 4, it is necessary to use a high-shrinkage yarn that is knitted in an unshrinked state and is shrunk by heating or chemical treatment to make the stitches dense. That is, since such a cylindrical tape 4 is not formed into a cylindrical shape by sewing on the sewing machine like a conventional cylindrical tape, it is excellent not only in manufacturing method but also in a feeling of wearing and appearance. Even if it is used frequently in a prominent place on clothing (in this case, all-in-one), there is no problem. And since the stitches are dense, the core material can be satisfactorily protected over a long period in the portion where the core material is inserted. Moreover, the contact of the core with the skin is soft and good.
[0013]
As shown in FIG. 2, the cylindrical tape 4 is formed in a hollow cylindrical shape along the longitudinal direction of the tape 4, and both edge portions 6 along the longitudinal direction of the tape 4 are formed as ridges. Must be formed. That is, as shown in FIG. 3, when the cylindrical tape 4 is sutured to the fabrics 9 and 9 ′ with the core 3 inserted through the cylindrical central portion 5, the cylindrical central portion 5 This is because even if the protrusions swell by the thickness, the notched portions of both edge portions 6 maintain a flat state, so that this portion becomes a seam allowance and sewing is easy. Thereby, the cylindrical tape 4 can be easily stitched at a predetermined position of the clothing (in this case, all-in-one) with the core material 3 inserted into the cylindrical tape 4. In addition, since the above-mentioned notched portion is not an edge portion formed by sewing as in a conventional tape, it does not bulge up and has a flat, clean appearance and good appearance.
[0014]
The tubular tape 4 is preferably made of a high shrinkage yarn having a shrinkage rate of 40 to 95%, and the front side of the cylindrical central portion is formed by double knitting, and the back side is also single knitted. It is preferable to form by. That is, as shown in FIG. 2, by making the front side 7 of the cylindrical central portion 5 thick with double knitting, the thick portion has a function like a core, and the core material 3 is inserted. It is easy. Further, when the all-in-one shown in FIG. 1 is sewn using the cylindrical tape 4 with the core material 3 inserted, the back side 8 formed by single knitting faces the fabrics 9, 9 '(see FIG. 3) and is sewn. Then, the inner core material 3 is sufficiently protected by the double knitted portion of the front side 7 exposed to the outside, and the inner portion (single knitted portion of the back side 8) overlapping the fabrics 9, 9 'is not thick, so that it feels comfortable to wear. Has the advantage of improving.
[0015]
The high shrinkage yarn having a shrinkage ratio of 40 to 95% means a yarn that shrinks by 40% or more by heating or chemical treatment, such as wooly nylon, nylon POY, polyester POY, polyvinyl chloride, polyvinylidene, Various high shrinkage yarns made of polypropylene or the like can be mentioned. Moreover, high shrinkage yarns such as conjugate yarns formed by combining nylon, polyester, and the like can be mentioned. And as for the thickness of the said high shrinkage yarn used for this invention, the thing of 80-250 denier is suitable.
[0016]
The cylindrical tape 4 used in the present invention is obtained by knitting the high-shrinkage yarn into a tubular shape in an unshrinked state, and then shrinking the yarn by heating or chemical treatment to make the stitches dense. The heating temperature when the heat treatment is performed is set to about 60 to 120 ° C. Moreover, when performing a chemical | medical agent process, although the kind of chemical | drug | medicine is suitably selected according to the kind of high shrinkage yarn, for example, cyclohexane etc. are used.
[0017]
The tubular tape 4 is preferably knitted by warp knitting. However, in the vertical knitting machine used for this, in order to form the double knitting portion, it is necessary to specially set the arrangement of the knitting needles (needles). That is, as shown in FIG. 4, the needles 10 to be double knitted are arranged in two rows, and one row of needles (not shown) is arranged in a symmetrical direction on the opposite side. Then, the yarn supplied from the upper guide bar 20 is chain-knitted by each needle 10, and at this time, weft insertion yarns (not shown) for connecting the respective chain stitches Q are knitted simultaneously. In the case of normal single knitting, the weft insertion yarns move in a wave as shown by pattern 11 in the organization chart of FIG. When the tubular tape used in the present invention is knitted, the weft insertion yarn that moves back and forth and connects the front and rear two rows of chains Q is formed together with the weft insertion yarn. Provided. Thereby, a double knitting part is knitted integrally.
[0018]
In addition, the double knitted portion and the single knitted portion on the opposite side are connected by different weft insertion yarns at both ends thereof, and are knitted into a tubular shape as a whole. This is schematically shown in FIG. 5B. In the figure, 13 is a chain extending in the direction perpendicular to the plane of the paper, 14, 15 and 16 are all weft insertion threads for connecting the left and right chain lines 13, 17 is a weft insertion thread for connecting the two rows of chain lines 13, Reference numeral 18 denotes a weft insertion yarn that connects the single knitted portion and the double knitted portion to form a ridge portion on both edge portions 6. And the inner space R of the cylindrical center part 5 is a part in which the core material 3 (refer FIG. 3), such as a wire, is inserted.
[0019]
When the cylindrical tape 4 used in the present invention is manufactured, a fancy yarn 21 as shown in FIG. 6 is used as the weft insertion yarn constituting the single knitted portion, and the loop pile is formed on the knitted fabric surface of the single knitted portion. May be formed. That is, when the fancy yarn 21 is used as a weft insertion yarn constituting the single knitted portion, the decorative yarn 23 of the fancy yarn 21 is shrunk warp yarn in a state where the whole is shrunk and the stitches are densified. Since it protrudes from between the core yarn 22 and the surface of the knitted fabric, a loop pile is formed on one side.
[0020]
When a loop pile is formed in this way, this single knitted part is usually the surface that comes into contact with the skin, so it feels soft against the skin and improves sweat absorption when sweating. A feeling of wearing is obtained.
[0021]
As the fancy yarn 21, a highly shrinkable yarn having a shrinkage rate of 40 to 95% is used as the core yarn 22, and a low shrinkage yarn having a shrinkage rate of 0 to 20% is used as the decorative yarn 23. Examples of the high shrinkage yarn used for the core yarn 22 include various high shrinkage yarns made of wooly nylon, nylon POY, polyester POY, polyvinyl chloride, polyvinylidene, polypropylene and the like. Moreover, high shrinkage yarns such as conjugate yarns formed by combining nylon, polyester, and the like can be mentioned. The thickness is preferably 30 to 140 denier.
[0022]
Further, as the low shrinkage yarn used for the decorative yarn 23, 40 to 80th cotton yarn, 30 to 100th rayon, 30d / (24 to 75) f to 140d / (70 to 280) f nylon filament, etc. Is preferred.
[0023]
In addition, in order to further improve the sweat absorption of the loop pile, the surface of the single knitted portion may be raised on the cylindrical tape having the loop pile formed on the single knitted portion. As a raising method, for example, as shown in FIG. 7, a method in which the tubular tape 4 is repeatedly run in a state of being in contact with the raising roll 26 is suitable. In the figure, reference numeral 27 denotes a guide roll.
[0024]
As the raising roll 26, a sand roll with sandpaper wound on the surface, an emery roll with fabric coated with fine gold sand on the surface, and the like are suitable, and the raised roll to be brought into contact with the tubular tape 4 The number of 26 is appropriately set, but is normally set to 2 to 12. And it is suitable from the point of the raising effect that the rotation direction of the roll 26 for raising is alternately set to forward / reverse, forward / reverse,...
[0025]
Further, as the high shrinkage yarn, a highly elastic yarn having elasticity even after shrinkage may be used so that the tubular tape 4 itself stretches in the longitudinal direction. As the high elastic yarn, it is preferable to use a covering yarn in which a synthetic fiber such as spandex is used as a core yarn and a synthetic fiber is wound around the core yarn.
[0026]
However, when elasticity is given to the cylindrical tape 4, if the entire portion using the cylindrical tape 4 is expanded and contracted, there are cases where it is not preferable from the viewpoint of correction of body shape, and the feeling of wear may be deteriorated. Therefore, in such a case, it is preferable to partially suppress the stretchability of the cylindrical tape 4. For that purpose, for example, as shown in FIG. 8, the portion 9a of the tubular tape 4 where the stretchability should be suppressed when worn is subjected to high-frequency ultrasonic irradiation processing, and the fibers of this portion are point-fused together. To suppress elasticity.
[0027]
The high-frequency ultrasonic irradiation processing can be performed using, for example, an apparatus as shown in FIG. In the figure, A is an ultrasonic oscillating foam connected to the high-frequency ultrasonic oscillator B, and C is an albin fixed with an adjustable gap D from the ultrasonic oscillating foam A. And on the surface of this Alvin C, the pattern comprised by the arbitrary unevenness | corrugations is given in order to perform concentration control of the ultrasonic wave irradiated from the said ultrasonic oscillation form A. And the part 9a which should be point-fused among the cylindrical tapes 4 is arrange | positioned in the gap | interval D of the said albin C and the ultrasonic oscillation form A, and ultrasonic irradiation is performed from the ultrasonic oscillation form A. , Point fusion can be applied.
[0028]
Furthermore, since the cylindrical tape 4 used in the present invention is usually used in a state where the double knitted portion is exposed to the outside, a glossy yarn is partially applied to the warp and weft insertion yarn constituting the double knitted portion. By using it so that the pattern is raised, decorativeness can be added to the cylindrical tape. As the glossy yarn, for example, a modified cross-sectional yarn such as nylon or rayon is suitable.
[0029]
Moreover, the cylindrical tape 4 used for this invention can be formed in circular arc shape besides forming in linear shape. That is, when an arc-shaped core material is inserted into the cylindrical tape 4 and stitched to the lower edge of the cup 1 (see FIG. 1), the cylindrical tape 4 itself is also formed in an arc shape in accordance with the shape of the core material. If this is done, the core material can be easily inserted and a beautiful finish can be obtained.
[0030]
When the cylindrical tape 4 is formed in an arc shape, the tension applied to the warp yarns arranged in the left-right direction during knitting is set to be different between one end side and the other end side in the left-right direction. That is, as shown in FIG. 11 which is a schematic plan view of the knitting structure, for example, among the warps 30 arranged in the left-right direction, for example, the leftmost warp 30a in the figure, the adjacent warp 30b, The adjacent warp 30c is set to have a higher tension than the other warps 30, and the tension becomes stronger as the tension goes to the left side. When knitting in this state, the weft insertion yarn 31 is knitted in a state where the warp is strongly pulled, so that the knitting density of this portion increases, and the shrinkage rate decreases in the shrinking step after knitting. For this reason, as the whole cylindrical tape 4, the shrinkage rate of a left edge part is small, the shrinkage rate of a right edge part becomes large, and the tubular tape 4 whole curves in an arc shape by the difference in the shrinkage rate. It is.
[0031]
However, the warp is knitted in an arrangement in which two warp yarns to be double knitted portions are front and back, one warp yarn to be a single knitted portion is a total of three, and therefore, for any warp yarn, It is desirable to set the tension as described above. The number of warps used for such tension adjustment is appropriately set according to the width of the cylindrical tape 4, the radius of curvature of the arc shape to be obtained, and the like. In FIG. 11, the portion S that protrudes to the left of the weft insertion thread 31 becomes a scissor portion when the weft insertion thread 31 of this portion is entangled with each other and another weft insertion thread (not shown) is introduced. Part.
[0032]
In addition, as described above, tension adjustment is not performed on the warp prepared to constitute the knitted fabric, but as shown by a chain line in FIG. High elastic yarn (for example, yarn obtained by covering polyurethane core yarn with nylon) 32 may be knitted. This method is more suitable for tension adjustment.
[0033]
In this way, when the tubular tape 4 is curved in an arc shape, the radius of curvature R ′ (see FIG. 12) is preferably set to be 50 to 200 mm.
[0034]
Further, the width T of the cylindrical tape 4 is normally set to about 8 to 20 mm regardless of whether the cylindrical tape 4 is arcuate or linear. If it is narrower than 8 mm, it is difficult to sew with other fabric while a wire or the like is inserted. Conversely, if it is wider than 20 mm, the appearance when attached to the underwear is poor.
[0035]
And it is suitable for the width | variety of the cylindrical center part 5 (refer FIG. 3) to set to 3-8 mm. That is, if it is narrower than 3 mm, it is difficult to insert a wire or the like, and conversely if it is wider than 8 mm, the fit of the wire or the like is poor. Moreover, it is preferable to set the width of the ridges formed on both edge portions 6 to 1 to 5 mm. That is, if the ridge portion is narrower than 1 mm, the above-described sewing function is difficult to be exhibited, and conversely it is meaningless if it is wider than 5 mm.
[0036]
Furthermore, when the cylindrical tape 4 is formed in an arc shape, the both edge portions 6 have a narrower width than the width of the outer side. Is preferred. That is, this is because the appearance of a product obtained by sewing the tubular tape 4 with another fabric is improved. Usually, the difference is set to 0.1 to 2 mm.
[0037]
The tubular tape 4 used in the present invention is not necessarily knitted by the above-mentioned warp knitting, and a knitting method capable of the same knitting as described above can be used.
[0038]
Moreover, although said example applies this invention to all-in-one, this invention is not limited to all-in-one, It can apply to various core material clothing. Examples of such core material clothes include all-in-one, such as a bra, a waist nipper, a girdle, a body suit, a camisole, and other underwear having a body shape correcting function. Moreover, the corset for waist protection, various protectors for treatment, or clothing with a protector for sports can be given. Further, the core material-filled cylindrical tape 4 is partially stitched to an outerwear, a hat, or the like, thereby obtaining an unprecedented design of clothing.
[0039]
In the present invention, any material such as various metal wires, plastic wires, and whale cages that are conventionally used can be used as the core material inserted into the cylindrical tape 4. Moreover, there is no restriction | limiting also about the cloth etc. to be used in the clothing which applies this.
[0040]
Next, examples will be described.
[0041]
[Preparation of cylindrical tape a]
As a knitting machine, a warp knitted raschel (made by Karl Mayer) is used, and nylon yarn (100 denier, shrinkage 50%) and nylon wool yarn (100 denier, shrinkage 50%) are aligned and warp and weft inserted. By using the yarn as a yarn and knitting at a knitting speed of 800 rpm, a tubular tape intermediate product having a gauge of 14 and 12 stages was obtained. This was shrunk by heat treatment at 100 ° C. for 10 minutes to obtain a cylindrical tape a as shown in FIG. The area shrinkage rate of this product was 95%.
[0042]
[Preparation of cylindrical tape b]
A tubular tape intermediate product was obtained in the same manner as described above. This was immersed in cyclohexane for 3 minutes to shrink and then dried to obtain a cylindrical tape b as shown in FIG. The area shrinkage percentage of this product was 93.3%.
[0043]
When stainless steel wires (diameter 1.5 mm) are actually inserted into the cylindrical tapes a and b and sutured in an all-in-one manner as shown in FIG. Was significantly shortened. Then, when the above-mentioned two kinds of all-in-one were tried on 10 professional monitors, all 10 persons evaluated that they had a good wearing feeling and a body shape correction effect. The all-in-one was able to be used satisfactorily for a long time.
[0044]
【The invention's effect】
As described above, the core material dressing of the present invention uses, as a cylindrical tape, a material obtained by knitting high-shrinkage yarns in an unshrinked state and shrinking them by heating or chemical treatment to make the stitches dense. The tubular tape stitched portion is excellent in wearing feeling and appearance. Therefore, even if the above-mentioned cylindrical tape (with core material) is frequently used in a conspicuous portion of clothing, there is no problem in the wearing feeling and appearance. And since the stitches of the cylindrical tape are dense, the core material can be well protected over a long period of time at the portion where the core material is inserted. Moreover, the contact of the core with the skin is soft and good. Also, when the cylindrical tape is stitched to the fabric while the core material is inserted because the central part along the longitudinal direction of the cylindrical tape is formed in a hollow cylindrical shape and both edge parts are formed in the ridges Even if the central portion swells and protrudes by the thickness of the core material, the ridge portion remains flat. Therefore, it is possible to easily perform sewing by using the flattened portion as a seam allowance. And since the said notch part is not the edge part formed by sewing like the conventional tape, it is not bumpy and it becomes a flat and clean external appearance.
[0045]
Also, the advantage of using a cylindrical tape with the entire tape bent in an arc shape is that the stitching operation can be performed more efficiently when stitching with other fabric while a curved wire or the like is inserted. Have
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a front view of an embodiment in which the present invention is applied to all-in-one.
FIG. 2 is an explanatory view of a cylindrical tape used in the embodiment.
FIG. 3 is an explanatory view showing a stitched state of the tubular tape and the cloth.
FIG. 4 is a partial explanatory view of an apparatus that can be used for manufacturing the cylindrical tape.
5A is a structural diagram of a conventional warp knitting machine, and FIG. 5B is a schematic longitudinal sectional view of a tubular tape knitting structure used in the embodiment.
FIG. 6 is an explanatory diagram of a configuration of a fancy yarn used for the cylindrical tape.
FIG. 7 is a partial explanatory view of an apparatus for raising one side of the cylindrical tape.
FIG. 8 is an explanatory diagram of a method for suppressing stretchability when the tubular tape has stretchability.
FIG. 9 is an explanatory diagram of an apparatus used for suppressing the stretchability.
FIG. 10 is an explanatory view of a conventional brassiere in which wires are sewn.
FIG. 11 is a schematic plan view of a tubular tape knitting structure used in the embodiment.
FIG. 12 is an explanatory diagram of a state in which the cylindrical tape is formed in an arc shape.
[Explanation of symbols]
1 cup 4 cylindrical tape

Claims (6)

In the core material apparel whose outer shape is given a certain shape retention by the core material attached to the fabric through the cylindrical tape, the cylindrical tape knits the high shrinkage yarn in an uncontracted state and heats it. Or it is contracted by chemical treatment and the stitches are densified, and the central part along the longitudinal direction is formed in a hollow cylindrical shape, and both edges along the longitudinal direction are formed in the ridges, A core material dressing material, wherein the cylindrical tape notched portion and the cloth are stitched together by sewing with the core material inserted through the cylindrical tape. The tubular tape is knitted with a high shrinkage yarn having a shrinkage rate of 40 to 95%, and the front side of the tubular central portion is formed by double knitting, and the back side is also formed by single knitting. The core material clothing according to claim 1. A double knitting portion of the cylindrical tape is formed by double warp knitting with needles arranged in two rows, and a single knitting portion is a single knitting with one row of needles arranged opposite to the two rows of needles. It is formed by warp knitting, and the above-mentioned two types of warp knitting parts are connected to each other by a weft insertion thread to form a squeeze part with a predetermined width, and the inner central part is cylindrical. The core material clothing according to claim 2, wherein the core material is knitted. As a weft insertion yarn constituting the single knitting portion of the above-mentioned cylindrical tape, a fancy yarn having a high shrinkage yarn having a shrinkage rate of 40 to 95% as a core yarn and a low shrinkage yarn having a shrinkage rate of 0 to 20% as a decorative yarn. The core material clothes according to claim 3, wherein a loop pile made of a decorative yarn is formed on the surface of the single knitted portion by a difference in shrinkage between the decorative yarn of the fancy yarn and another yarn. The core material clothing according to claim 4, wherein a surface of the single knitted portion is raised. The cylindrical tape as described in any one of Claims 1-5 WHEREIN: The part stitched | sutured to the lower edge part of each cup is stitched | sutured in the state bent beforehand by circular arc shape, It is characterized by the above-mentioned. Core material clothing.

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