JP3195397B2 - Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic, and more particularly, to a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic which is excellent in skin protection effect and its persistence and has a good feeling in use.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, cosmetics containing oils and fats such as paraffin, fatty acid esters, higher alcohols and glycerides and high molecular weight dimethylpolysiloxane (silicone oil) have been used for the purpose of protecting the skin and preventing rough skin. Used.

[0003]

However, these cosmetics have an oily residual sensation after use, that is, an oily sticky sensation or a filmy sensation, and further have insufficient skin adhesion due to insufficient adhesion to the skin. However, even if it has a skin-protecting effect, its durability is insufficient.

[0004] Accordingly, there has been a demand for the development of a cosmetic which is excellent in skin protection effect and its persistence and which has a refreshing feeling of use.

[0005]

Under these circumstances, the present inventors have made intensive studies and as a result, have found that a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic containing a specific amphipathic lipid, a high molecular silicone and a volatile silicone has been developed. Have been found, and the present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention provides the following component (A):
(B) and (C) (A) having a structure having at least a hydroxyl group, an amide bond and two long-chain hydrocarbon groups, wherein the hydroxyl group and the amide bond are located between the two long-chain hydrocarbon groups. 0.5 to 20% by weight of an amphipathic lipid, (B) 0.05 to 5% by weight of a high molecular silicone, (C) 5 to 50% by weight of a volatile silicone, and C _{16 to} C _{22 of} citric acid An object of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic characterized by not containing a fatty acid ester.

As the amphiphilic lipid of the component (A) used in the water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, for example, naturally occurring sphingosine derivatives, ie, ceramide, sugar ceramide, etc., and the same structure as ceramide Ceramide-like structural materials having the following properties can be used.

The component (A) includes ceramides represented by the following general formula (1).

[0009]

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(Wherein, R ¹ and R ² represent a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 8 to 26 carbon atoms which may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups)

The ceramide-like structural substance used as the component (A) includes, for example, the following general formula (2)
And amide derivatives described in JP-A-62-228048.

[0012]

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(Wherein, R ³ represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 10 to 26 carbon atoms, and R ⁴ represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 9 to 25 carbon atoms.) Indicates unsaturated hydrocarbon group)

The ceramides used as the component (A) in the present invention are represented by the general formula (1) and are known compounds. (1) In the formula, groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include, for example, octyl, nonyl, decyl, dodecyl, undecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl,
Hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, heneicosyl, docosyl, tricosyl, tetracosyl, pentacosyl, hexacosyl, nonenyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, undecenyl, tridecenyl, tetradecenyl, pentadecenyl, hexadecenyl, heptadecenyl, octadecenyl, octadecenyl
Eicosenyl, heneicosenyl, docosenyl, tricosenyl, tetracosenyl, pentacosenyl, hexacosenyl, nonadienyl, decadienyl, dodecadienyl,
Undecadienyl, tridecadienyl, tetradecadienyl, pentadecadienyl, hexadecadienyl, heptadecadienyl, octadecadienyl, nonadecadienyl, eicosadienyl, henicosadienyl, docosadienyl, tricosadienyl, tetracosadienyl, pentacosadienyl Examples thereof include enyl, hexacosadienyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octylundecyl, and 2-decyltetradecyl group.

The ceramide-like structural material represented by the general formula (2) used as the component (A) can be obtained by a known method [for example, Polish Journal of Chemistry (Pol. J. Chem.) 52 , 1059
52 , 1283 (1978); JP-A-54-117421, JP-A-54-144308, JP-A-54-147937, and JP-A-62-22804.
Nos. 8 and 63-216852]. That is, it can be produced by reacting a compound (3) obtained from glycidyl ether and ethanolamine with a fatty acid methyl ester according to the following reaction formula.

[0016]

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(Wherein R ³ and R ⁴ have the same meanings as described above). (2) In the formula, the group represented by R ³ is a group having 10 to 26 carbon atoms in R ¹ and R ² described above. Things,
Examples of the group represented by R ⁴ include those having 9 to 25 carbon atoms in R ¹ and R ² described above.

These components (A) can be used alone or in appropriate combination of two or more kinds. The amount of the component (A) is generally 0.5 to 0.5% based on the total amount of the water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention.
It is in the range of 20% by weight (hereinafter simply referred to as%), and particularly preferably in the range of 3 to 10% in order to obtain an extremely high skin protection effect.

The high molecular silicone of the component (B) used in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention includes, for example, a high molecular silicone oil represented by the following general formula (4).

[0020]

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Wherein R ⁵ and R ⁶ represent a methyl group or a hydroxyl group, and n represents an integer of 500 to 50,000. However, all of R ⁵ are not hydroxyl groups.)

In the formula (4), n is an integer of 500 to 50,000.
It is preferably an integer of 0000.

The component (B) can be used alone or in an appropriate combination of two or more kinds. The compounding amount is 0.1% based on the feeling of use with respect to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention.
It is preferably from 5 to 5%, and particularly preferably from 0.2 to 2%. In addition, the high molecular silicone of the component (B) is preferably blended after being dissolved in the volatile silicone of the component (C) described later or other silicone oils in terms of handling.

The volatile silicone of the component (C) used in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is, for example, a linear volatile silicone oil represented by the following general formula (5) or The cyclic volatile silicone oil represented by the formula (6) is exemplified.

[0025]

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[0026]

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The component (C) can be used alone or in an appropriate combination of two or more kinds. The compounding amount is usually in the range of 5 to 50% in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention. , Preferably in the range of 10 to 20%.

The water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention further contains other components which are usually blended into cosmetics and which, when used alone or in combination, make the system water-in-oil (W / O type). They can be appropriately blended. For example, non-volatile silicone can be blended with liquid oil such as squalane and fatty acid ester for the purpose of giving a refreshing feeling of use, and squalane and fatty acid ester can be blended with the purpose of improving the feeling of spread and adaptation to the skin. Components, other absorption-promoting substances other than keratinocyte lipids, ultraviolet absorbers, chelating agents, pH regulators, preservatives, pigments, fragrances, viscosity regulators, anti-inflammatory agents, and other medicinal agents can be blended.

The water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is prepared by emulsifying the above components with an emulsifier according to a conventional method. The emulsifier used here is not particularly limited as long as it is an emulsifier usually blended in cosmetics, and is a nonionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, and a modified silicone. Oil and the like.

The water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetics to be used in the present invention include skin care cosmetics such as face care creams or emulsions, skin care creams or emulsions, emulsions or creamy foundations; hair cosmetics; And the like.

[0031]

The mechanism of action of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is unknown, but is presumed as follows. That is, when the water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is applied to the skin, the volatile silicone contained therein volatilizes to form a high molecular silicone film, and the skin is closed. As a result, the concentration of the amphipathic lipid of the component (A) increases, and the penetration of the amphiphilic lipid into the skin increases, thereby enhancing the protective effect on the skin.

[0032]

Industrial Applicability The water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has high moisturizing properties and a good feeling in use, as well as an excellent protective effect on the skin and its durability.

[0033]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be further described with reference to the following examples, which should not be construed as limiting the invention thereto.

Example 1 Creams having the compositions shown in Table 1 below were produced according to a conventional method, and the skin protection effect, moisturizing effect, and feeling of use were evaluated for each according to the following methods. Table 2 shows the results.

[0035]

[Table 1]

[Evaluation Method] (1) Evaluation of Skin Protective Effect on Rough Skin (Effect of Methyl Nicotinate on Skin Penetration): Glass cup with acetone / ether (volume ratio 1: 1) inside human forearm Inner diameter 2
cm) and degreased for 10 minutes to induce rough skin. A fixed amount of each sample was applied to half the area of the rough skin, allowed to stand for 3 hours, and then washed with hot water. One drop of an aqueous solution of methyl nicotinate was dropped on the sample-coated and uncoated areas, and wiped off after 5 seconds. When methyl nicotinate penetrates into the skin, it dilates blood vessels, so if penetrated into the skin, redness is observed at the dropping site within a few minutes. Ten minutes after the dropping of methyl nicotinate, the degree of redness of the sample-applied site was visually determined as compared to the sample-unapplied site, and the skin permeation inhibitory effect of methyl nicotinate was evaluated according to the following criteria. The results in Table 2 are shown as average values (N = 5). (Evaluation criteria) 0: No redness is observed 1: Redness is slightly observed 2: Redness is observed 3: Remarkable redness is observed

(2) Evaluation of moisturizing effect on rough skin: (1)
Apply a certain amount of each sample to the rough skin induced as in
After leaving still for 3 hours, it was washed with hot water, entered into a constant temperature and humidity room at a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 50%. After 3 hours, the moisture content in the stratum corneum was measured with an impedance meter (manufactured by IBS), and the moisturizing effect was obtained. Value. The results in Table 2 are shown as average values (N = 5).

(3) Evaluation of feeling of use: After washing the inside of the human forearm with soap and drying, a fixed amount of each sample was applied, and the sensory evaluation of each item of residual feeling and smoothness was performed according to the following criteria. went. The results are shown in Table 2. (Evaluation criteria) A: Very good B: Good C: Somewhat bad D: Bad

[0039]

[Table 2]

As is clear from the results shown in Table 2, the cream of the present invention is excellent in skin protection effect and moisturizing property and has a good feeling in use.

────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ identification code FI A61P 17/16 A61P 17/16 (58) Investigated field (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) A61K ^7/ 00-7/50

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. The following components (A), (B) and (C): (A) having at least a hydroxyl group, an amide bond and two long-chain hydrocarbon groups, wherein the hydroxyl group and the amide bond are two long 0.5 to 20% by weight of an amphipathic lipid having a structure located between chain hydrocarbon groups, (B) 0.05 to 5% by weight of a polymer silicone, and (C) 5 to 50% by weight of a volatile silicone. containing and, and water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic which is characterized by not containing C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid ester of citric acid.