JP3128529B2 - Method for producing cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn, and method for producing fabric using filament yarn obtained by the method - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

The present invention relates to a method for producing a cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn, and
The present invention relates to a method for producing a fabric using the filament yarn obtained by the method.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A woven or knitted fabric using a mixed fiber of different shrinkage filaments is said to be a new synthetic fiber as having a feeling exceeding that of silk. However, in recent years, a higher-grade feel, that is, a higher swelling feeling and a new feel are required, and it is necessary to further increase the difference in shrinkage between the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component constituting the filament mixed yarn. Have been. As a method of increasing the shrinkage difference, there are a method of increasing the shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage filament yarn and a method of reducing the shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage filament yarn. For the former method, it is effective to increase the amount of the copolymerized component.However, the crystallization rate of the polymer is reduced, the fusion between the pellets in the drying step, and the dyeing of the woven or knitted fabric from the obtained filament yarn. There are problems such as a reduction in the yield as a product due to shrinkage in the process. On the other hand, in the latter method, it is necessary to impart the property of reducing the shrinkage as much as possible, and desirably the property of spontaneous elongation.

[0003] The texture of a woven or knitted fabric provided by using a blended yarn of a spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn imparted with spontaneous elongation and a high shrinkage polyester filament yarn is very excellent, and a high swelling feeling is highly appreciated in the market. Have been. As such a spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn, a polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn having a specific birefringence is drawn under specific drawing conditions into a thick filament, and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment, so that it is stretched in a post-processing step. A spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn is disclosed in
No. 1244.

[0004] On the other hand, not only excellent feeling but also high expectation of change in appearance are obtained, and the dyeing properties of the cation-dyeable polyester filament yarn and the non-cation-dyeable polyester filament yarn are improved. Materials having a mix-like appearance utilizing the difference between the two have been accepted in the market. It is required that such cationic dyeable polyester filament yarns also have spontaneous elongation. However, since the cationic dyeable polyester polymer has an acidic polar group, the stretched yarn has a large shrinkage, and a spontaneously elongated yarn cannot be produced in the condition range limited by the above patent.

A method for producing such a spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn having cationic dyeability is disclosed in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. Hei 7-292524, which discloses a highly oriented 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymer polyester having a specific birefringence. A method of imparting spontaneous elongation by repeating a relaxation treatment twice after stretching a drawn yarn under specific drawing conditions to form a thick and thin filament yarn is disclosed.

[0006]

However, in the method for producing a cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn disclosed in the above-mentioned publication, spontaneous elongation characteristics of elongation in a post-processing step are satisfied, but two times of relaxation. Since the treatment is performed, the yarn tension of the filament yarn tends to decrease during the relaxation treatment, and stable yarn production has been desired. Therefore,
An object of the present invention is to provide a method for stably producing a polyester filament yarn having cationic dyeability and exhibiting spontaneous elongation in a subsequent step, and a method for producing a fabric using the filament yarn obtained by the method. To provide.

[0007]

A first gist of the present invention is as follows.
The main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate,
5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is added to 1.5 to 3.5.
Mol% of polyester, having a birefringence Δn
Is stretched under the conditions satisfying the following formula, and a thick portion and a thin portion are formed between filaments and in the longitudinal direction of the filaments: 35 × 10 ^{−3 to} 55 × 10 ⁻³ , and boiling water shrinkage ratio of 40% or more. Cation-dyeable spontaneous extensibility, characterized in that a highly-dispersed thick and thin filament yarn is stretched under the condition satisfying the following formula, and further subjected to relaxation heat treatment under the condition satisfying the following formula. This is a method for producing a polyester filament yarn.

1.0 <MDR × 0.4 ≦ DR ₁ ≦ MDR × 0.5 (Tg + 20 ° C.) ≦ HR ₁ ≦ (Tg + 50 ° C.) 1.0 <DR ₂ <1.1 (Tg + 10 ° C.) ≦ HR ₂ <HR ₁ RR ₁ ≧ 10% HP ≧ (HR ₂ +50) ° C.

Here, DR ₁ : a draw ratio in the first-stage drawing region MDR: a maximum drawing ratio measured at a preheating temperature of 85 to 90 ° C. HR ₁ : a surface temperature of a take-off roller in the first-stage drawing region ( ° C.) Tg: glass transition temperature (℃) DR _2: draw ratio HR ₂ in the second stage drawing zone: take-off of the second-stage stretching zone b - La - surface temperature (℃ of) RR _1: after the second step stretching In the first-stage relaxation treatment area (%) HP: Relaxation temperature in the first-stage relaxation treatment area (° C)

[0010] The second gist of the present invention is to blend a cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn obtained by the above-mentioned method and a high shrinkage yarn, to form a fabric, and to carry out alkali weight reduction processing and dispersion. This is a method for producing a fabric using a cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn, wherein the cloth is dyed with a dye and a cationic dye and subjected to a dry heat treatment.

[0011]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The polyester in the polyester filament yarn of the present invention needs to be a polyester which is dyeable to a cationic dye and whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate. Examples of the polyester exhibiting dyeability include polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as a copolymer component having an acidic polar group.
Is preferred. The fact that the polyester filament yarn of the present invention exhibits such cationic dye dyeability provides a variety of appearances and colors due to the difference in dyeing characteristics when mixed with a high shrinkage filament yarn.

[0012] The polyester filament yarn of the present invention comprises:
The elongation at the time of the boiling water treatment is 0 to 5%, that is, -5 to 0% in terms of shrinkage, and the elongation at the time of the dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. or more after the boiling water treatment is 1 to 4%. -4 to -1 in terms of shrinkage
%. It has spontaneous elongation on wet heat and dry heat. If the elongation rate during the boiling water treatment is less than 0%, shrinkage occurs,
If it exceeds 5%, the woven or knitted fabric undergoes morphological change under wet heat such as a dyeing step. If the elongation percentage during the dry heat treatment is less than 1%, the effect of improving the feeling due to the difference in shrinkage from the high shrinkage filament yarn is small, and if it exceeds 4%, the permeability in the processing step becomes unstable.

Further, the polyester filament yarn of the present invention has a thick part and a thin part dispersed between filaments and in the longitudinal direction of the filament. The presence of such a thick part and a thin part promotes the spontaneous elongation of the polyester filament yarn of the present invention, and reduces the unevenness due to the high degree of dispersion.

The method for producing the cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn of the present invention will be described. As the polyester of the present invention, the intrinsic viscosity [η] is in the range of 0.45 to 0.65, and the main repeating unit is Ethylene terephthalate, a polyester obtained by copolymerizing 1.5-3.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is used. If the copolymerization amount of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is less than 1.5 mol%, good dyeability with a cationic dye cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 3.5 mol%, the melt viscosity becomes too large and the spinnability becomes too large. Becomes defective.

In the present invention, the 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerized polyester is spun by a known melt spinning method to obtain an undrawn yarn.
A highly oriented undrawn yarn having a birefringence Δn of 35 × 10 ^{−3 to} 55 × 10 ⁻³ , preferably 40 × 10 ^{−3 to} 50 × 10 ⁻³ is used. Further, the boiling water shrinkage of the highly oriented undrawn yarn needs to be 40% or more, preferably 45% or more. When the birefringence index Δn of the undrawn yarn is less than 35 × 10 ⁻³ , the shrinkage of the obtained filament yarn in the boiling water treatment becomes large, and when it exceeds 55 × 10 ⁻³ , there is elongation during dry heat treatment, There is no elongation in the boiling water treatment, and shrinkage spots generated due to high orientation are remarkable, and stain spots are generated. On the other hand, if the boiling water shrinkage of the highly oriented undrawn yarn is 40% or less, the yarn tension required for stable running of the yarn during the relaxation treatment cannot be sufficiently secured, and the yarn will sway and the relaxation treatment cannot be performed stably. The fiber cross-sectional shape of the melt-spun undrawn yarn may be a circular cross section or an irregular cross section.

The highly oriented unstretched yarn is supplied to a yarn feed roller at room temperature (Tg + 20 ° C.) to (Tg +
50 ° C.) The maximum draw ratio measured at a preheating temperature of 85 to 90 ° C. between a pair of rollers composed of a take-up roller heated to a surface temperature of 50 ° C. (MD
The film is stretched at a stretch ratio set to 40 to 50% of R). In this drawing, the drawing becomes uneven drawing in which the drawing point slightly fluctuates on the take-off roller, and a thick and thin filament yarn in which the thick portion and the thin portion are highly dispersed between the filaments and in the longitudinal direction of the filament is obtained.

The thick and thin filament yarn is continuously heated to a surface temperature of (Tg + 10 ° C.) or more in the second-stage drawing area and not higher than the surface temperature of the take-up roller in the first-stage drawing area. The film is stretched at a draw ratio of 1.0 to 1.1 times by a liner. Next, the stretched filament yarn is further subjected to a relaxation temperature of (the surface temperature of the take-up roller in the second-stage drawing zone + 50 ° C.) or more in the first-stage relaxation treatment area, at least 10%, preferably 15% or more. % Relaxation processing.

In the present invention, the thick filament yarn obtained by the first-stage drawing, the second-stage drawing, and the first-stage relaxation treatment has a reduced structural distortion, and has a shrinkage of 0 to −− during the boiling water treatment.
5% (a negative value indicates elongation), and 1% after boiling water treatment.
Elongation at the time of dry heat treatment at 30 ° C. or more is 1 to 4%,
It has spontaneous elongation performance showing irreversible elongation. If the conditions of the stretching and relaxation treatment of the present invention are out of the range, spontaneous elongation may not be obtained, or even if it is obtained, the dispersion of the thick part and the thin part may be poor, causing staining spots, and between filaments and in the filament longitudinal direction. Plaques on the skin.

Among the above conditions, in particular, the second-stage stretching ratio is set in the range of 1.0 to 1.1, and the temperature of the take-up roller in the first-stage stretching region is set in the second-stage stretching region. It is very important to set the temperature to a temperature equal to or higher than the temperature of the take-off roller, in order to obtain spontaneously-extended yarns while ensuring yarn-making stability.

By setting the second draw ratio to 1.0 or more, it is possible to prevent the tension of the filament yarn during processing from being remarkably reduced, solve problems such as yarn breakage, and stably manufacture the yarn. become. On the other hand, when the ratio is set to 1.1 or more, the thickness difference between the thick portion and the thin portion which are highly dispersed in the longitudinal direction of the filament formed in the first stretching region is reduced, and the spontaneous elongation is reduced. Magnification is 1.0-1.
Must be set in the range of 1.

The temperature of the take-off roller in the first-stage stretching zone is adjusted to the second
It is important to set the temperature at or above the take-up roller in the step stretching area. With this setting, the take-up roller in the second-stage drawing region has an effect of substantially relaxing the filament yarn while having a draw ratio of 1.0 or more, and provides a good spontaneous elongation to the filament yarn. It can be granted.

[0022]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples. The boiling water shrinkage and dry heat shrinkage were measured by the following methods. Tg is measured by a differential scanning calorimeter (Seiko-
It was measured by DSC220 manufactured by Electronic Industries Co., Ltd.

Boiling water shrinkage (BWS): A 10-turn scab having a test length of 1 m was prepared under a tension of 1/30 g per denier, and a load of 2/3 g per denier was initially applied. The mosquito length (L ₀ ) is measured. The hull is immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes with no load, and then a load is applied again to measure the hull length (L ₁ ), which is calculated by the following equation. Boiling water shrinkage (%) = (L ₀ −L ₁ ) / L ₀ × 100

Dry Heat Shrinkage (HAS): The dry heat shrinkage at 180 ° C. was determined by leaving the cassette sample after measuring the boiling water shrinkage at 180 ° C. in an atmosphere temperature of 180 ° C. with no load for 10 minutes.
The measuring length (L ₂ ) is measured and calculated by the following equation. Dry heat shrinkage (%) = (L ₀ −L ₂ ) / L ₀ × 100

Example 1 5.25 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.53
The copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate was added with a pore size of 0.2
melt spinning at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. using a spinneret having a hole diameter of 48 mm and a winding speed of 3,000 m / min and 120 d / 4.
8f unrolled men's yarn was obtained. The MDR of the obtained unrolled gentle yarn was 2.45, Δn was 40.8 × 10 ⁻³ , and Tg was 80 ° C. This unrolled gentle yarn was stretched and relaxed under the following stretching conditions to obtain a polyester filament yarn.

First stretch ratio (DR ₁ ) = MDR × 0.47 Second stretch ratio (DR ₂ ) = 1.01 First relaxation ratio (RR ₁ ) = 15% Take-up roller in first stretch region Temperature (HR ₁ ) = 110 ° C. Take-up roller temperature (HR ₂ ) in second stretching zone = 100 ° C. First relaxation treatment temperature (HP) = 190 ° C.

Table 1 shows the shrinkage characteristics of the obtained filament yarn.
As shown in the figure, this filament yarn has a shrinkage ratio (BWS) in a boiling water treatment and a shrinkage ratio (HA) in a 180 ° C. dry heat treatment.
S) was a negative value and had spontaneous elongation. Air-blending the obtained normal pressure cationic dyeable spontaneously extensible fine fiber and a 75d / 18f high shrinkage yarn produced using polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing 8.0% by mole of isophthalic acid, A mixed fiber yarn of 195d / 66f was produced, a plain woven fabric was prepared, weight-reduced by a conventional method, dyed with a disperse dye and a cationic dye, and then subjected to a dry heat treatment at 175 ° C for 1 minute. The obtained woven fabric was excellent in bulkiness and had a swelling soft texture. Furthermore, it was a woven fabric exhibiting a mixed tone by different kinds of dyes.

(Examples 2 to 5, Comparative Examples 1 to 5) Example 1
A polyester filament yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the birefringence Δn, stretching conditions, and relaxation conditions of the unrolled men's yarn were changed as shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the shrinkage characteristics of the obtained filament yarn.

[0029]

[Table 1]

[0030]

According to the production method of the present invention, a spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn capable of dyeing a cationic dye and reversibly extending without shrinking under the moist heat of boiling water or the dry heat of 130 ° C. or more is stabilized. Can be manufactured. If the resulting cationic dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn is mixed with a high shrinkage polyester filament yarn to form a mixed fiber yarn, not only can the woven and knitted fabric with excellent bulkiness, softness and swelling feel be obtained, The combination of a disperse dye and a cationic dye makes it possible to obtain a deep-mixed woven or knitted fabric based on the difference in the vivid colors of the dyes, which is extremely suitable as a woven or knitted fabric material in the field of clothing.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ identification code FI D03D 15/04 D03D 15/04 A (58) Investigated field (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D02J 1/22 D01F 6 / 84 305 D03D 15/00 D03D 15/04

Claims (13)

(57) [Claims] 1. A main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, which is a polyester obtained by copolymerizing 1.5 to 3.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, and has a birefringence Δn of 35 ×. 10 ^{−3 to} 55 × 10 ⁻³ , a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 40% or more is represented by the following formula:
The filament is drawn under the condition that the thick part and the thin part are highly dispersed between the filaments and in the longitudinal direction of the filament, and the thin filament yarn is stretched under the condition that the following formula is satisfied. ,
A method for producing a cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn, characterized by performing a relaxation heat treatment under conditions satisfying the following conditions. 1.0 <MDR × 0.4 ≦ DR ¹ ≦ MDR × 0.5
(Tg + 20 ° C) ≦ HR ¹ ≦ (Tg + 50 ° C)
1.0 <DR ² <1.1
(Tg + 10 ° C.) ≦ HR ² <HR ¹
RR ¹ ≧ 10%
HP ≧ (HR ² +50) ° C.
Here, DR ¹ : stretching ratio in the first-stage stretching region MDR: maximum stretching ratio measured at a preheating temperature of 85 to 90 ° C. HR ¹ : surface temperature of the take-off roller in the first-stage stretching region (° C.) Tg : Glass transition temperature (° C.) DR ² : Stretching ratio in second-stage stretching region HR ² : Surface temperature of take-up roller in second-stage stretching region (° C.) RR ¹ : First after second-stage stretching Relaxation rate (%) in the first stage relaxation treatment area HP: Relaxation temperature (° C) in the first stage relaxation treatment area 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein DR ¹ is 1.0 to 1.3.
A method for producing the cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn described above. 3. The method for producing a cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn according to claim 1, wherein HR ¹ is 100 to 130 ° C. 4. The method according to claim 1, wherein HR ² is 90 to 100 ° C.
The method for producing a cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn according to any one of Items 1 to 3. 5. The cationically dyeable spontaneous extensibility according to claim 1, wherein the relaxation rate (RR ¹ ) in the first-stage relaxation treatment area after the second-stage stretching is 15% or more. A method for producing a polyester filament yarn. 6. The method for producing a cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn according to claim 1, wherein the polyester used has an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.45 to 0.65. 7. The obtained cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn has an elongation of 0 to 5% during a boiling water treatment.
The method for producing a cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 6. 8. The method according to claim 1, wherein the obtained cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn has an elongation ratio of 1 to 4% when subjected to a dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. or more after boiling water treatment. A method for producing the cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn described above. 9. A click obtained by the method according to claim 1.
On dyeable spontaneous stretchable polyester filament yarn and high yield
After blending the condensed yarn, a fabric is formed, alkali weight reduction processing,
Cation characterized by being dyed and subjected to dry heat treatment
Cloth using dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn
Fabric production method. 10. The high shrinkage yarn to be mixed is mainly repeated.
The unit is ethylene terephthalate, and isophthalic acid
5 to 10 mol% of a modified polyester copolymerized
Item 10. A cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filler according to item 9.
A method for producing a fabric using a ment yarn. 11. The high shrinkage yarn to be mixed is mainly repeated.
The unit is ethylene terephthalate, and isophthalic acid
11. A modified polyester copolymerized by 8 mol%.
The cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester filament described
A method for producing a fabric using a yarn. 12. The method according to claim 9, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric.
The cationically dyeable spontaneously extensible polyester according to any one of claims 1 to 4.
A method for producing a fabric using a filament yarn. 13. Dyeing with a disperse dye and a cationic dye
The cation according to any one of claims 9 to 12, wherein the cation is performed.
Dyeable spontaneous stretchable polyester filament yarn Cloth used
Fabric production method.