JP3568305B2 - Multicolor mixed tone spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn and method for producing the same - Google Patents
Multicolor mixed tone spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn and method for producing the same Download PDFInfo
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Description
【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、多色ミックス調の自発伸長性ポリエステルフィラメント糸及びその製造方法に関する。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
従来より自発伸長性を有するポリエステル繊維については、特開平１−２５０４２５号公報、特開平１−２５０４３３号公報にて、沸水収縮率が０％以上で乾熱収縮率が０％以下の自発伸長性フィラメント糸と乾熱収縮率が０％以上のフィラメント糸の混繊糸であって、両者の乾熱収縮率の差が５％以上である特定の交絡度を持った混繊糸が提案され、特開平５−２４７７６８号公報にて、繊維長手方向に太細を有する自発伸長性フィラメント糸を用いて、十分な膨らみ感を持つと共に従来にない風合いを有し、また染色した場合に、従来の布帛とは非常に異なった染色状態の布帛が得られる糸が提案されている。本出願人も特開平６−２００４３６号公報にて、後工程での工程通過性を改良した繊維長手方向に太細を有する自発伸長性フィラメント糸を用いた混繊糸を提案している。
【０００３】
一方、カチオン染料可染性ポリマーでの自発伸長性ポリエステル繊維についても、本出願人は特願平６−５２５５６号で提案しているが、高収縮繊維と混繊すると、カチオン染料可染性の自発伸長性繊維が織編物表面に高い頻度で存在するため、カチオン染料による着色が目立ちすぎミックス調効果が得られ難い。その対策として、カチオン染料可染性を有しない自発伸長性繊維とカチオン染料可染性を有する自発伸長性繊維と高収縮繊維とを混繊する方法があるが、製糸工程の異なる三原糸を組み合わせて一本の加工糸とするのは、工程が複雑になり、コスト的に不利となるだけでなく、品質のコントロールも困難となる。
【０００４】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明の目的は、ソフトで、ふかつきのないハリ、コシ、膨らみ感を有し、また良好な多色ミックス効果を織編物に与える多色ミックス調自発伸長性ポリエステルフィラメント糸を提供することにある。
【０００５】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明は、自発伸長率及び染色性を異にする２種の太細糸が合糸され、沸水処理時に伸長し、その後の１３０℃以上の乾熱処理時にさらに伸長するポリエステル複合太細糸であって、２種の太細糸の一方の高自発伸長性太細糸（Ａ繊維）と他方の低自発伸長性太細糸（Ｂ繊維）とが下記条件を満足することを特徴とする多色ミックス調自発伸長性ポリエステルフィラメント糸、
【０００６】
１％≦ＡＢＷＥ≦６％、２％≦ＡＨＡＥ≦１０％、ＡＨＡＥ−ＡＢＷＥ≧１％
０％≦ＢＢＷＥ≦３％、０％≦ＢＨＡＥ≦５％、ＢＨＡＥ−ＢＢＷＥ≧１％
ＡＢＷＥ−ＢＢＷＥ＞１％、ＡＨＡＥ−ＢＨＡＥ＞２％
（但し、ＡＢＷＥは高自発伸長性太細糸の沸水処理時の伸長率、ＡＨＡＥは高自発伸長性太細糸の沸水処理後の１３０℃以上の乾熱処理時の原糸に対する伸長率、ＢＢＷＥは低自発伸長性太細糸の沸水処理時の伸長率、ＢＨＡＥは低自発伸長性太細糸の沸水処理後の１３０℃以上の乾熱処理時の原糸に対する伸長率を表す）
【０００７】
及び、ポリエチレンテレフタレート９５重量％以上のポリエステル（ａ成分）と、ポリエチレンテレフタレートに５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を１．５〜３．５モル％共重合した改質ポリエステル（ｂ成分）とを、各ポリマーからの未延伸糸の複屈折率Δｎが３０×１０−３〜７０×１０−３の範囲になるよう同一紡糸口金の異なる吐出孔群からそれぞれ吐出させて紡糸し、合糸して巻取り、その後下記式（１）〜（３）を満たす条件で延伸して太細繊維とし、次いで下記式（４）〜（５）を満たす条件で熱処理し、さらに下記式（６）〜（７）を満たす条件で緩和熱処理し、沸水処理時の伸長率が１％以上６％以下、沸水処理後の１３０℃以上の乾熱処理時の原糸に対する伸長率が２％以上１０％以下の高自発伸長性太細糸（Ａ繊維）と、沸水処理時の伸長率が０％以上３％以下、沸水処理後の１３０℃以上の乾熱処理時の原糸に対する伸長率が０％以上５％以下で、かつ沸水処理時のＡ繊維との伸長率差が１％を超え、上記乾熱処理時のＡ繊維との伸長率差が２％を超える低自発伸長性太細糸（Ｂ繊維）の混在する糸とすることを特徴とする多色ミックス調自発伸長性ポリエステルフィラメント糸の製造方法、にある。
【０００８】
（１） ＤＲ１＞１．０
（２） ＭＤＲ×０．３５≦ＤＲ１≦ＭＤＲ×０．５５
（３） Ｔｇ≦ＨＲ１≦Ｔｇ＋３０℃
（４） ０．９０≦ＤＲ２≦１．４０
（５） ＨＲ２＜Ｔｃ
（６） ＤＲ３＜０．９０
（７） ＨＰ≧ＨＲ２＋５０℃
（但し、ＤＲ１は第一延伸域の延伸倍率、ＭＤＲは予熱温度８５〜９０℃で測定した最大延伸倍率、ＤＲ２は第二領域の延伸倍率、ＤＲ３は第三領域の延伸倍率、ＨＲ１は第一延伸域の引取ローラーの表面温度（℃）、ＨＲ２は第一緩和処理域の引取ローラーの表面温度（℃）、ＨＰは第二緩和処理域の緩和温度（℃）、Ｔｇはガラス転移温度（℃）、Ｔｃは結晶化温度（℃）を表す）
【０００９】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明の多色ミックス調自発伸長性ポリエステルフィラメント糸は、２種の太細糸が合糸されてなり、２種の太細糸は、互いに自発伸長率及び染色性を異にし、好ましくは一方が沸水処理時及び乾熱処理時に前記伸長率を有する高自発伸長性及びカチオン染料非可染性の太細糸（Ａ繊維）であり、他方が沸水処理時及び乾熱処理時に前記伸長率を有する低自発伸長性及びカチオン染料可染性の太細糸（Ｂ繊維）であり、糸全体としては、沸水処理時に伸長し、その後の１３０℃以上の乾熱処理時にさらに伸長するものである。
【００１０】
Ａ繊維及びＢ繊維は、それぞれシック部とシン部がフィラメントの長手方向及びフィラメント間に高度に分散した太細糸であることが好ましく、また、Ｂ繊維のカチオン染料可染性は、太細糸のポリマーにカチオン染料可染性成分を共重合させて付与される。Ａ繊維は、前記条件を満足しない場合、即ち沸水処理後の乾熱処理での伸長率が１０％を超えると、後の工程の織編成時にテリ、アタリ、スレを引き起こしたり、ふかつき感の大きい織編物となり、伸長率が２％未満では、嵩高性、ハリ、コシ、膨らみ感といった風合いに劣るものとなる。
【００１１】
Ｂ繊維は、前記条件を満足しない場合、特に沸水処理後の乾熱処理での伸長率が５％を超えると、Ａ繊維、Ｂ繊維共に高自発伸長性となるため、後の工程の織編成時にテリ、アタリ、スレを引き起こしたり、ふかつき感の大きい織編物となり、伸長率が０％未満では、熱処理されたときに高伸長したＡ繊維にて覆われてしまい、カチオンミックス効果が得られない。
【００１２】
Ａ繊維とＢ繊維との沸水伸長率の差が１％以下、乾熱伸長率の差が２％以下では、Ａ繊維、Ｂ繊維間に伸長率差が殆どなく、高収縮繊維と混繊したときに、生ずるループ間の空間を埋めることによる織編物へのハリ、コシの付与効果が発揮されない。
【００１３】
Ａ繊維とＢ繊維との比は、好ましくはＡ繊維：Ｂ繊維＝２：８〜８：２であり、高収縮繊維と混繊し織編物としたときに、Ａ繊維が織編物表面に表れ易くＢ繊維によるカチオン染料による着色が見難いことから、Ｂ繊維の比を高め、より好ましくは２：８〜５：５とする。
【００１４】
本発明の多色ミックス調自発伸長性ポリエステルフィラメント糸は、高収縮繊維と組み合わせて混繊糸とするときには、この混繊糸を用いることにより高収縮繊維との収縮差及び構成太細糸間の伸長率差により嵩高性に優れ、よりソフトでハリ、コシ、膨らみ感に富み、染色での分散染料とカチオン染料の組み合わせ、太細糸自体のシック部とシン部の染色性差による多色ミックス調を呈する織編物を得ることができる。
【００１５】
以下、共に自発伸長性を示す前記高自発伸長性太細糸（Ａ繊維）と低自発伸長性太細糸（Ｂ繊維）の混在する本発明の多色ミックス調自発伸長性ポリエステルフィラメント糸の製造方法を説明する。
本発明方法で用いるポリエステルは、一方のａ成分として、主たる繰り返し単位がエチレンテレフタレートであるポリエステルで、好ましくはポリエチレンテレフタレートが用いられ、また、他方のｂ成分として、ポリエチレンテレフタレートに５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を１．５〜３．５モル％共重合した改質ポリエステルを用いる。改質ポリエステルにおける共重合が１．５モル％未満では、良好なカチオン染料可染性が得られず、３．５モル％を超えると、溶融粘度が過大となり曳糸性が不良となる。
【００１６】
また、ａ、ｂ成分には、前記条件を満たす範囲で他の共重合成分が０．５〜１１．５モル％共重合されていてもよい。かかる共重合成分としては、アジピン酸、イソフタル酸、ヘキサヒドロテレフタル酸、ジ安息香酸、アゼライン酸、ジエチレングリコール、テトラメチレングリコール、ヘキサメチレングリコール、ペンタエリスルトール等が挙げられ、ａ、ｂ成分に分散染料易染性、カチオン染料易染性等を付与することもできる。
【００１７】
ａ、ｂ成分の各ポリマーは、同一紡糸口金のそれぞれの吐出孔群から吐出させて紡糸する。用いる紡糸口金は、同一紡糸口金にａ成分のポリマーが吐出する吐出孔群とｂ成分のポリマーが吐出する吐出孔群を有し、ａ成分吐出孔群とｂ成分吐出孔群とは、左右に配列して配置してもよいし、前後に配列或いは同心円状に配列して配置してもよく、またａ成分吐出孔群とｂ成分吐出孔群をさらに分割して配列して配置してもよい。ａ成分吐出孔群とｂ成分吐出孔群とは、互いに吐出孔の孔径、孔数または形状が異なっていてもよい。吐出に際してのａ、ｂ成分比は、好ましくはａ成分：ｂ成分＝２：８〜８：２、より好ましくは２：８〜５：５とする。
【００１８】
紡糸は、溶融紡糸法により行い未延伸糸とするが、ａ成分未延伸糸及びｂ成分未延伸糸は、それらの複屈折率Δｎが３０×１０−３〜７０×１０−３、好ましくは３０×１０−３〜６０×１０−３の範囲になるよう紡糸する。未延伸糸の複屈折率Δｎが３０×１０−３未満では、得られる繊維は、自発伸長性の乏しいものとなり、沸水処理、乾熱処理において収縮する。
【００１９】
この理由は、後の工程での延伸で太細繊維化したとき、シック部である未延伸部の配向が低すぎるため、沸水処理時の熱エネルギーによる配向非晶部における分子構造の安定化は結晶化ではなく無定形への構造変化となり、繊維が収縮する。複屈折率Δｎが７０×１０−３を超えると、紡糸での安定性が著しく低下する。ａ成分未延伸糸の複屈折率Δｎは、ｂ成分未延伸糸の複屈折率Δｎより一般に大きくなるが、その差が１０×１０−３未満であることが好ましく、複屈折率Δｎ差が１０×１０−３以上になると、後の延伸工程でａ成分未延伸糸の糸張力が低下し、加工安定性を悪化させる。
【００２０】
ここで、複屈折率Δｎの測定は、円型断面糸は偏光顕微鏡により測定し、異型断面繊維は密度勾配管を使用して測定した密度ρの値から、Δｎが１５×１０−３〜６０×１０−３の円型断面糸について測定したΔｎとρとの関係から一次式の近似式 Δｎ＝３．３３×ρ−４．４４により算出した。
【００２１】
ａ成分未延伸糸とｂ成分未延伸糸とは、合糸して巻取り、その後、合糸未延伸糸を室温の給糸ローラーとＴｇ〜Ｔｇ＋３０℃に加熱された引取りローラーから構成される一対のローラー間で延伸倍率が１を超え、かつ予熱温度が８５〜９０℃で測定した最大延伸倍率の０．３５〜０．５５倍、好ましくは０．４０〜０．５０倍の延伸倍率で延伸する。次いで、結晶化温度未満の温度で０〜１０％の緩和率で緩和熱処理或いは延伸倍率１．０〜１．４で定長熱処理し、さらに１０％を超える緩和率で第二領域の熱処理時の温度＋５０℃より高い温度で緩和熱処理する。
【００２２】
以上の延伸と緩和熱処理とは、連続した一つの工程として行ってもよく、また独立したそれぞれの工程として行ってもよい。この延伸により、合糸未延伸糸のａ成分未延伸糸及びｂ成分未延伸糸にそれぞれシック部とシン部とが形成され太細繊維化され、緩和熱処理により太細繊維の構造歪が緩和される。合糸未延伸糸の延伸を前記条件外で行った場合は、十分な自発伸長性が発現しなかったり、自発伸長性が認められても、染斑が発生して染め品位が劣るものとなったり、工程安定を低下させる等の問題を生じる。
【００２３】
【実施例】
以下、本発明を実施例により具体的に説明する。なお、実施例における沸水伸長率、乾熱伸長率等は、下記の方法により測定した。
【００２４】
〈沸水伸長率（ＢＷＥ）〉
１デニール当たり１／３０ｇの張力下で試長１ｍの１０回巻の綛を準備し、１デニール当たり２／３０ｇの測定荷重を負荷して初期綛長（Ｌ０）を測定する。その綛を無荷重状態で沸騰水中に３０分浸漬した後、再び測定荷重を負荷して綛長（Ｌ１）を測定し、次式により算出した。
ＢＷＥ（％）＝〔（Ｌ１−Ｌ０）／Ｌ０〕×１００
【００２５】
〈乾熱伸長率（ＨＡＥ）〉
沸水伸長率を測定した後の綛サンプルを雰囲気温度１８０℃中に無荷重状態で１０分間放置し、綛長（Ｌ２）を測定し、次式により算出した。
ＨＡＥ（％）＝〔（Ｌ２−Ｌ０）／Ｌ０〕×１００
【００２６】
〈ガラス転移温度Ｔｇ、結晶化温度Ｔｃ〉
示差走査熱量測定機（セイコー電子工業（株）製、ＤＳＣ２２０）にて測定した。
【００２７】
（実施例１）
固有粘度［η］０．６８のポリエチレンテレフタレート（ａ成分）と、固有粘度［η］０．５３の５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸２．２５モル％を共重合したポリエチレンテレフタレート（ｂ成分）とを、孔径０．２５、孔数２０の吐出孔群と孔径０．３７５、孔数２８の吐出孔群を左右配列に配置した紡糸口金を用い、ａ成分を前者の吐出孔群、ｂ成分を後者の吐出孔群から紡糸温度２８５℃で吐出させて溶融紡糸し、ａ、ｂ成分からの各糸条を合糸して２７００ｍ／分で巻取ってａ成分繊維（８３ｄ／２０ｆ）とｂ成分繊維（８３ｄ／２８ｆ）が合糸された１６６ｄ／４８ｆの未延伸糸を得た。得られた未延伸糸は、ａ成分からの構成繊維（Ａ繊維）が、ＭＤＲ３．００、複屈折率Δｎ３８×１０−３、Ｔｇ７０℃、Ｔｃ８０℃、ｂ成分からの構成繊維（Ｂ繊維）が、ＭＤＲ２．７４、複屈折率Δｎ３６×１０−３、Ｔｇ１１０℃、Ｔｃ１１５℃であった。
【００２８】
この未延伸糸を下記の条件で延伸、緩和熱処理して１５０ｄ／４８ｆの太細糸を得た。
この太細糸は、７５ｄ／２０ｆのＡ繊維と７５ｄ／２８ｆのＢ繊維から構成され、Ａ繊維及びＢ繊維は、次の伸長性を示すものであった。
Ａ繊維の沸水処理時の伸長率ＡＢＷＥ：３％
Ａ繊維の沸水処理後の１８０℃の乾熱処理時の原糸に対する伸長率ＡＨＡＥ：７％
Ｂ繊維の沸水処理時の伸長率ＢＢＷＥ：０．５％
Ｂ繊維の沸水処理後の１８０℃の乾熱処理時の原糸に対する伸長率ＢＨＡＥ：３．４％
従って、Ａ繊維は、沸水処理後の乾熱処理でさらに４％、Ｂ繊維は、沸水処理後の乾熱処理でさらに２．９％伸長するものであった。
【００３０】
この太細糸と、イソフタル酸８．０モル％を共重合したポリエチレンテレフタレートを用いて製造した７５ｄ／１８ｆの高収縮糸とを、エアーで混繊処理し、２２５ｄ／６６ｆの混繊糸を得て平織織物を織成し、沸騰下での減量加工、分散染料及びカチオン染料で９８℃以上の温度で染色後、１７５℃で１分の乾熱処理を施した。得られた織物は、嵩高性に優れ、ハリ、コシ、膨らみ感のあるソフトな良好な風合いを有し、多色ミックス調を呈するものであった。表１に太細糸の製造条件、伸長性、織物での風合い・染め外観の評価結果を示した。
【００３１】
（比較例１）
実施例１で得たと同じ未延伸糸を用い、下記の条件で延伸、緩和熱処理して１５０ｄ／４８ｆの太細糸を得た。
この太細糸は、
Ａ繊維の沸水処理時の伸長率ＡＢＷＥ：−１．０％
Ａ繊維の沸水処理後の１８０℃の乾熱処理時の原糸に対する伸長率ＡＨＡＥ：
０％
Ｂ繊維の沸水処理時の伸長率ＢＢＷＥ：−５．０％
Ｂ繊維の沸水処理後の１８０℃の乾熱処理時の原糸に対する伸長率ＢＨＡＥ：
−５．０％
であり、Ａ繊維及びＢ繊維は、共に沸水処理により収縮し、沸水処理後の乾熱処理でも、Ａ繊維は１％しか伸長せず、Ｂ繊維は何等伸長しないものであった。
【００３３】
この太細糸を実施例１と同様にして高収縮糸と混繊し、得られた混繊糸にて織成し、沸水処理に相当する加工処理後、１７５℃で１分の乾熱処理を施した。得られた織物は、嵩高性に劣り風合いが不良であり、多色ミックス調に欠けるものであった。表１に太細糸の製造条件、伸長性、織物での風合い・染め外観の評価結果を示した。
【００３４】
（比較例２）
実施例１で用いたと同じａ、ｂ成分を用い、表１に示す紡糸及び延伸条件にて太細糸を得た。この太細糸を実施例１と同様にして高収縮糸とエアー混繊して混繊糸とし、織物にして、沸水処理に相当する加工処理後、乾熱処理を施し、表１に織物での風合い・染め外観の評価結果を示した。
【００３５】
【表１】
【発明の効果】
本発明による多色ミックス調自発伸長性ポリエステルフィラメント糸は、２種の太細繊維で構成され、かつ２種の太細繊維が互いに自発伸長性及び染色性を異にすることから、高収縮繊維と混繊されて混繊糸としたときに、嵩高性に優れ、ソフトでハリ、コシ、膨らみ感に富む風合い、及び染色での多色ミックス調の外観を織編物に付与し得るものである。[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a multicolor spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn and a method for producing the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, polyester fibers having spontaneous elongation are disclosed in JP-A-1-250425 and JP-A-1-250433, in which spontaneous elongation with a boiling water shrinkage of 0% or more and a dry heat shrinkage of 0% or less is disclosed. A mixed fiber of a filament yarn and a filament yarn having a dry heat shrinkage of 0% or more, and having a specific degree of entanglement in which the difference in dry heat shrinkage between the two is 5% or more, has been proposed. JP-A-5-247768 discloses that a spontaneously extensible filament yarn having a fineness in the longitudinal direction of a fiber is used to have a sufficient swelling feeling and an unprecedented texture. There has been proposed a yarn that can obtain a fabric in a dyed state very different from that of the fabric. The present applicant has also proposed in JP-A-6-200436 a blended yarn using a spontaneously extensible filament yarn having a fineness in the longitudinal direction of the fiber, which has improved processability in a subsequent process.
[0003]
On the other hand, spontaneously extensible polyester fibers of a cationic dye-dyeable polymer have also been proposed by the present applicant in Japanese Patent Application No. 6-52556. Since the spontaneously extensible fibers are present on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric at a high frequency, the coloring by the cationic dye is too conspicuous, and it is difficult to obtain a mixed effect. As a countermeasure, there is a method of blending spontaneous extensible fibers having no cationic dye dyeability, spontaneous extensible fibers having cationic dye dyeability, and high shrinkage fibers. The use of a single processed yarn not only complicates the process and is disadvantageous in cost, but also makes it difficult to control the quality.
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a multicolor spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn which is soft, has no firmness, stiffness, and swelling, and gives a good multicolor mixing effect to a woven or knitted fabric. .
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention is a polyester composite thick yarn in which two types of thick yarns having different spontaneous elongation rates and dyeing properties are combined, elongated during boiling water treatment, and further elongated during a dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. or higher. A multi-color, characterized in that one of the two types of thick yarns has a high spontaneous extensibility thick yarn (A fiber) and the other low spontaneous extensibility thick yarn (B fiber) satisfies the following conditions: Mix-like spontaneous extensible polyester filament yarn,
[0006]
1% ≦ A BWE ≦ 6%, 2% ≦ A HAE ≦ 10%, A HAE −A BWE ≧ 1%
0% ≦ B BWE ≦ 3%, 0% ≦ B HAE ≦ 5%, B HAE− B BWE ≧ 1%
A BWE -B BWE > 1%, A HAE -B HAE > 2%
(However, ABWE is the elongation rate of the high spontaneously extensible thick yarn at the time of boiling water treatment, and AHAE is the elongation rate of the high spontaneously extensible thick yarn at the time of dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. or more after the boiling water treatment, B BWE indicates the elongation rate of the low spontaneous elongation thick yarn at the time of the boiling water treatment, and B HAE indicates the elongation rate of the low spontaneous elongation thick yarn at the time of the dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. or more after the boiling water treatment.)
[0007]
And a polyester (a component) of 95% by weight or more of polyethylene terephthalate and a modified polyester (component (b)) obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 1.5 to 3.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in each polymer From the different discharge hole groups of the same spinneret so that the birefringence Δn of the undrawn yarn from the above becomes in the range of 30 × 10 −3 to 70 × 10 −3 , spinning, winding and winding, Thereafter, the fiber is drawn under the conditions satisfying the following formulas (1) to (3) to obtain a thick fiber, and then heat-treated under the condition satisfying the following formulas (4) to (5). High spontaneous elongation with elongation of 1% or more and 6% or less during boiling water treatment, and elongation of 2% or more and 10% or less of raw yarn during dry heat treatment at 130 ° C or more after boiling water treatment. Thick yarn (A fiber The elongation rate in the boiling water treatment is 0% or more and 3% or less, the elongation rate with respect to the original yarn in the dry heat treatment at 130 ° C or more after the boiling water treatment is 0% or more and 5% or less, and the A fiber in the boiling water treatment. A yarn having a low spontaneous extensibility thick fiber (B fiber) having a difference in elongation ratio of more than 1% and a difference in elongation ratio from the A fiber during the dry heat treatment of more than 2%. A method for producing a color-mix-tone spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn.
[0008]
(1) DR 1 > 1.0
(2) MDR × 0.35 ≦ DR 1 ≦ MDR × 0.55
(3) Tg ≦ HR 1 ≦ Tg + 30 ° C.
(4) 0.90 ≦ DR 2 ≦ 1.40
(5) HR 2 <Tc
(6) DR 3 <0.90
(7) HP ≧ HR 2 + 50 ° C.
(However, DR 1 draw ratio in the first stretching zone, the maximum draw ratio MDR is measured at a preheating temperature 85-90 ° C., DR 2 draw ratio in the second region, DR 3 draw ratio of the third region, HR 1 is the surface temperature (° C.) of the take-off roller in the first stretching area, HR 2 is the surface temperature (° C.) of the take-up roller in the first relaxation treatment area, HP is the relaxation temperature (° C.) of the second relaxation treatment area, and Tg is Glass transition temperature (° C), Tc indicates crystallization temperature (° C))
[0009]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
The multicolor spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn of the present invention is obtained by combining two types of thick and thin yarns, and the two types of thick and thin yarns have different spontaneous elongation rates and dyeing properties from each other. Is a spontaneously extensible and cationic dye non-dyeable thick and thin yarn (A fiber) having the above elongation rate during the boiling water treatment and the dry heat treatment, and the other is a low spun yarn having the elongation rate during the boiling water treatment and the dry heat treatment. It is a spontaneously extensible and cationic dye-dyeable thick and thin yarn (B fiber). The entire yarn is elongated during boiling water treatment and further elongated during a dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. or higher.
[0010]
The A fiber and the B fiber are preferably thick and thin yarns in which the thick part and the thin part are highly dispersed in the longitudinal direction of the filament and between the filaments, respectively. Is provided by copolymerizing a cationic dye-dyeable component with the polymer of (1). When the fiber A does not satisfy the above conditions, that is, when the elongation percentage in the dry heat treatment after the boiling water treatment exceeds 10%, it causes a terry, a warp, a thread, and a large twitching at the time of knitting in a later process. If it is a woven or knitted fabric, and the elongation is less than 2%, it will be inferior in texture such as bulkiness, firmness, stiffness, and swelling.
[0011]
When the B fiber does not satisfy the above conditions, especially when the elongation percentage in the dry heat treatment after the boiling water treatment exceeds 5%, both the A fiber and the B fiber have high spontaneous elongation. Teri, or cause Atari, the thread becomes a large woven or knitted fabric Fukatsuki sense, the elongation rate is less than 0%, not will be covered Te in high elongated a fiber, a cation-mix effect obtained when the heat-treated .
[0012]
When the difference in boiling water elongation between A fiber and B fiber was 1% or less and the difference in dry heat elongation was 2% or less, there was almost no difference in elongation between A fiber and B fiber, and the fibers were mixed with high shrinkage fiber. Sometimes, the effect of imparting firmness and stiffness to the woven or knitted fabric by filling the space between the loops is not exhibited.
[0013]
The ratio of the A fiber to the B fiber is preferably A fiber: B fiber = 2: 8 to 8: 2, and when mixed with a high shrink fiber to form a woven or knitted fabric, the A fiber appears on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. Since the coloring with the cationic dye by the B fiber is difficult to see, the ratio of the B fiber is increased, more preferably from 2: 8 to 5: 5.
[0014]
When the multicolor mixed tone spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn of the present invention is used as a mixed yarn in combination with a high shrinkage fiber, the shrinkage difference with the high shrinkage fiber and the difference between the constituent thin yarns by using this mixed yarn. Excellent in bulkiness due to difference in elongation rate, softer, richer in firmness, firmness, swelling, combination of disperse dye and cationic dye in dyeing, multicolor mix tone due to difference in dyeability between thick part and thin part of thick yarn itself Can be obtained.
[0015]
Production of a multicolor spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn of the present invention in which the high spontaneously extensible thick yarn (A fiber) and the low spontaneously extensible thick yarn (B fiber) both exhibiting spontaneous elongation are mixed. The method will be described.
The polyester used in the method of the present invention is a polyester in which the main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate as one component a, and preferably polyethylene terephthalate, and the other component b is polyethylene terephthalate in which 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is used. Is used in the form of a modified polyester obtained by copolymerization of 1.5 to 3.5 mol%. If the copolymerization of the modified polyester is less than 1.5 mol%, good dyeability of the cationic dye cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 3.5 mol%, the melt viscosity becomes excessive and the spinnability becomes poor.
[0016]
Further, the components a and b may be copolymerized with another copolymer component in an amount of 0.5 to 11.5 mol% within a range satisfying the above conditions. Examples of such a copolymer component include adipic acid, isophthalic acid, hexahydroterephthalic acid, dibenzoic acid, azelaic acid, diethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, and the like. Dye easily dyeing, cationic dye easy dyeing, and the like can also be imparted.
[0017]
The polymers of the components a and b are discharged from respective discharge hole groups of the same spinneret and spun. The spinneret used has a discharge hole group for discharging the polymer of the a component and a discharge hole group for discharging the polymer of the b component to the same spinneret, and the a component discharge hole group and the b component discharge hole group They may be arranged and arranged, may be arranged in front and rear or may be arranged concentrically, or may be arranged so that the a component ejection hole group and the b component ejection hole group are further divided and arranged. Good. The a component discharge hole group and the b component discharge hole group may differ from each other in the diameter, the number, or the shape of the discharge holes. The ratio of the a and b components at the time of ejection is preferably a component: b component = 2: 8 to 8: 2, more preferably 2: 8 to 5: 5.
[0018]
The spinning is performed by a melt spinning method to obtain an undrawn yarn, and the a component undrawn yarn and the b component undrawn yarn have a birefringence Δn of 30 × 10 −3 to 70 × 10 −3 , and preferably 30 × 10 −3 . Spinning is performed so as to be in the range of × 10 −3 to 60 × 10 −3 . If the birefringence Δn of the undrawn yarn is less than 30 × 10 −3 , the resulting fiber will have poor spontaneous elongation and will shrink during boiling water treatment and dry heat treatment.
[0019]
The reason for this is that when drawing into a thick fiber in a subsequent step, the orientation of the undrawn portion, which is a thick portion, is too low, and therefore, the stabilization of the molecular structure in the oriented amorphous portion due to heat energy at the time of boiling water treatment is not achieved. Instead of crystallization, the structure changes to amorphous and the fibers shrink. When the birefringence Δn exceeds 70 × 10 −3 , the stability in spinning is significantly reduced. The birefringence Δn of the a-component undrawn yarn is generally larger than the birefringence Δn of the b-component undrawn yarn, but the difference is preferably less than 10 × 10 −3 , and the birefringence Δn difference is 10 If it is × 10 −3 or more, the yarn tension of the a-component undrawn yarn is reduced in the subsequent drawing step, and the processing stability is deteriorated.
[0020]
Here, the measurement of the birefringence Δn is such that the circular cross-section yarn is measured by a polarizing microscope, and the irregular cross-section fiber is from a value of density ρ measured using a density gradient tube, and Δn is 15 × 10 −3 to 60 × 60. It was calculated from the relationship between Δn and ρ measured for the × 10 −3 circular cross-section yarn by an approximate expression of a linear expression Δn = 3.33 × ρ−4.44.
[0021]
The a-component undrawn yarn and the b-component undrawn yarn are combined and wound, and thereafter, the combined undrawn yarn is composed of a room-temperature supply roller and a take-up roller heated to Tg to Tg + 30 ° C. The stretching ratio between the pair of rollers exceeds 1, and the preheating temperature is 0.35 to 0.55 times the maximum stretching ratio measured at 85 to 90 ° C, preferably 0.40 to 0.50 times. Stretch. Next, a relaxation heat treatment at a temperature lower than the crystallization temperature at a relaxation rate of 0 to 10% or a constant-length heat treatment at a stretching ratio of 1.0 to 1.4, and further at a relaxation rate exceeding 10% during the heat treatment of the second region. Relaxation heat treatment is performed at a temperature higher than the temperature + 50 ° C.
[0022]
The above stretching and relaxation heat treatment may be performed as one continuous step or may be performed as independent steps. By this drawing, a thick part and a thin part are respectively formed in the a-component undrawn yarn and the b-component undrawn yarn of the conjugated undrawn yarn, and the fibers are turned into thin fibers. The relaxation heat treatment reduces the structural distortion of the thick fibers. You. When the drawing of the untwisted yarn is performed outside the above conditions, sufficient spontaneous elongation is not exhibited, or even if spontaneous elongation is observed, spotting occurs and the dyeing quality becomes poor. And the problem of deteriorating the process stability.
[0023]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to examples. The boiling water elongation, dry heat elongation, and the like in the examples were measured by the following methods.
[0024]
<Boiling water elongation rate (BWE)>
A skein of 10 turns with a test length of 1 m is prepared under a tension of 1/30 g per denier, and a measurement load of 2/30 g per denier is applied to measure an initial skein length (L 0 ). The skein was immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes with no load, and then a measuring load was applied again to measure the skein length (L 1 ), which was calculated by the following equation.
BWE (%) = [(L 1 −L 0 ) / L 0 ] × 100
[0025]
<Dry heat elongation (HAE)>
The skein sample after measuring the boiling water elongation was allowed to stand at 180 ° C. in an atmosphere temperature of 180 ° C. for 10 minutes without load, and the skein length (L 2 ) was measured and calculated by the following equation.
HAE (%) = [(L 2 −L 0 ) / L 0 ] × 100
[0026]
<Glass transition temperature Tg, crystallization temperature Tc>
The measurement was performed with a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC220, manufactured by Seiko Instruments Inc.).
[0027]
(Example 1)
Polyethylene terephthalate (component (a)) having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.68 and polyethylene terephthalate (component (b)) obtained by copolymerizing 2.25 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.53, Using a spinneret in which a discharge hole group having a hole diameter of 0.25 and a hole number of 20 and a discharge hole group having a hole diameter of 0.375 and a hole number of 28 are arranged in a left and right array, a component is the former discharge hole group, and b component is the latter. The mixture is discharged from the discharge hole group at a spinning temperature of 285 ° C., melt-spun, and the respective yarns from the a and b components are combined and wound at 2700 m / min , and the a component fiber (83d / 20f) and the b component fiber ( 83d / 28f) was obtained as a 166d / 48f undrawn yarn. In the obtained undrawn yarn, the constituent fiber (A fiber) from the component a was MDR 3.00, the birefringence Δn 38 × 10 −3 , the Tg 70 ° C., the Tc 80 ° C., and the constituent fiber from the component b (B fiber). However, MDR was 2.74, birefringence Δn 36 × 10 −3 , Tg 110 ° C., and Tc 115 ° C.
[0028]
The undrawn yarn was drawn and relaxed under the following conditions to obtain a 150d / 48f thick and thin yarn.
This thick and thin thread was composed of 75d / 20f A fiber and 75d / 28f B fiber, and the A fiber and B fiber exhibited the following extensibility.
Elongation rate A BWE during boiling water treatment of A fiber: 3%
Elongation A AHEE to the original yarn at the time of dry heat treatment at 180 ° C. after the boiling water treatment of the A fiber: A HAE : 7%
Elongation rate B BWE during boiling water treatment of B fiber: 0.5%
Elongation rate B HAE with respect to the original yarn at the time of dry heat treatment at 180 ° C. after the boiling water treatment of the B fiber: 3.4%
Accordingly, the A fiber was further extended by 4% by the dry heat treatment after the boiling water treatment, and the B fiber was further extended by 2.9% by the dry heat treatment after the boiling water treatment.
[0030]
This thick thin yarn and a high shrinkage yarn of 75d / 18f produced by using polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 8.0 mol% of isophthalic acid are subjected to fiber mixing treatment with air to obtain a mixed yarn of 225d / 66f. Then, the plain woven fabric was woven and subjected to weight reduction under boiling, dyeing with a disperse dye and a cationic dye at a temperature of 98 ° C. or more, and a dry heat treatment at 175 ° C. for 1 minute. The resulting woven fabric was excellent in bulkiness, had a soft, good texture with firmness, firmness, and swelling, and exhibited a multicolored mixed tone. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the production conditions, extensibility, and texture / dyed appearance of the woven fabric for the thick and thin yarn.
[0031]
(Comparative Example 1)
Using the same undrawn yarn obtained in Example 1, drawing and relaxation heat treatment were performed under the following conditions to obtain a 150d / 48f thick and thin yarn.
This thick thread is
Elongation rate A BWE during boiling water treatment of A fiber: -1.0%
Elongation rate A HAE to the original fiber at the time of the dry heat treatment at 180 ° C. after the boiling water treatment of the A fiber:
0%
Elongation rate B BWE during boiling water treatment of B fiber: -5.0%
Elongation ratio B HAE to the original yarn at the time of dry heat treatment at 180 ° C. after the boiling water treatment of the B fiber:
-5.0%
The A fiber and the B fiber both contracted due to the boiling water treatment, and even after the dry heat treatment after the boiling water treatment, the A fiber expanded only 1% and the B fiber did not expand at all.
[0033]
This thick yarn was mixed with a high shrink yarn in the same manner as in Example 1, woven with the obtained mixed yarn, and subjected to a dry heat treatment at 175 ° C. for 1 minute after processing corresponding to boiling water treatment. . The obtained woven fabric was inferior in bulkiness and poor in texture, and lacked a multicolored mixed tone. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the production conditions, extensibility, and texture / dyed appearance of the woven fabric for the thick and thin yarn.
[0034]
( Comparative Example 2 )
Using the same a and b components as used in Example 1, a thick and thin yarn was obtained under the spinning and drawing conditions shown in Table 1. This thick and thin yarn is mixed with air with a high shrinkage yarn in the same manner as in Example 1 to form a mixed yarn, and a woven fabric is subjected to a dry heat treatment after processing corresponding to boiling water treatment. The evaluation results of texture and dyed appearance are shown.
[0035]
[Table 1]
【The invention's effect】
The multicolor spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn of the present invention is composed of two types of fine fibers, and the two types of fine fibers have different spontaneous extensibility and dyeability from each other. It is capable of giving a woven or knitted fabric an excellent bulkiness, softness, firmness, firmness, a texture rich in swelling, and a multicolored mixed-colored appearance by dyeing. .
Claims (3)
１％≦ＡＢＷＥ≦６％、２％≦ＡＨＡＥ≦１０％、ＡＨＡＥ−ＡＢＷＥ≧１％
０％≦ＢＢＷＥ≦３％、０％≦ＢＨＡＥ≦５％、ＢＨＡＥ−ＢＢＷＥ≧１％
ＡＢＷＥ−ＢＢＷＥ＞１％、ＡＨＡＥ−ＢＨＡＥ＞２％
（但し、ＡＢＷＥは高自発伸長性太細糸の沸水処理時の伸長率、ＡＨＡＥは高自発伸長性太細糸の沸水処理後の１３０℃以上の乾熱処理時の原糸に対する伸長率、ＢＢＷＥは低自発伸長性太細糸の沸水処理時の伸長率、ＢＨＡＥは低自発伸長性太細糸の沸水処理後の１３０℃以上の乾熱処理時の原糸に対する伸長率を表す）A polyester composite thick and thin yarn obtained by combining two types of thick yarns having different spontaneous elongation rates and dyeing properties, elongating during a boiling water treatment, and further elongating during a subsequent dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. or more. Characterized in that one high spontaneously extensible thick thread (A fiber) and the other low spontaneous extensible thick thread (B fiber) satisfy the following conditions: Polyester filament yarn.
1% ≦ A BWE ≦ 6%, 2% ≦ A HAE ≦ 10%, A HAE −A BWE ≧ 1%
0% ≦ B BWE ≦ 3%, 0% ≦ B HAE ≦ 5%, B HAE− B BWE ≧ 1%
A BWE -B BWE > 1%, A HAE -B HAE > 2%
(However, ABWE is the elongation rate of the high spontaneously extensible thick yarn at the time of boiling water treatment, AHAE is the elongation rate of the high spontaneously extensible thick yarn at the time of dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. or more after the boiling water treatment, B BWE indicates the elongation rate of the low spontaneous elongation thick yarn at the time of the boiling water treatment, and B HAE indicates the elongation rate of the low spontaneous elongation thick yarn at the time of the dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. or more after the boiling water treatment.)
（１） ＤＲ１＞１．０
（２） ＭＤＲ×０．３５≦ＤＲ１≦ＭＤＲ×０．５５
（３） Ｔｇ≦ＨＲ１≦Ｔｇ＋３０℃
（４） ０．９０≦ＤＲ２≦１．４０
（５） ＨＲ２＜Ｔｃ
（６） ＤＲ３＜０．９０
（７） ＨＰ≧ＨＲ２＋５０℃
（但し、ＤＲ１は第一延伸域の延伸倍率、ＭＤＲは予熱温度８５〜９０℃で測定した最大延伸倍率、ＤＲ２は第二領域の延伸倍率、ＤＲ３は第三領域の延伸倍率、ＨＲ１は第一延伸域の引取ローラーの表面温度（℃）、ＨＲ２は第一緩和処理域の引取ローラーの表面温度（℃）、ＨＰは第二緩和処理域の緩和温度（℃）、Ｔｇはガラス転移温度（℃）、Ｔｃは結晶化温度（℃）を表す）95% by weight or more of polyethylene terephthalate (component (a)) and a modified polyester (component (b)) obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 1.5 to 3.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid were synthesized from each polymer. Each of the undrawn yarns is discharged and spun from different discharge hole groups of the same spinneret so that the birefringence Δn of the undrawn yarn is in the range of 30 × 10 −3 to 70 × 10 −3 , combined, wound and wound, and then described below. The fiber is drawn under the conditions satisfying the formulas (1) to (3) to give a thick fiber, and then heat-treated under the condition satisfying the following formulas (4) to (5), and further the condition satisfying the following formulas (6) to (7) The heat-relaxation heat treatment is performed, and the elongation percentage of the raw yarn during the dry heat treatment at 130 ° C. or more after the boiling water treatment is 1% or more and 6% or less. Yarn (A fiber), The elongation percentage during water treatment is 0% or more and 3% or less, the elongation percentage with respect to the original yarn during dry heat treatment at 130 ° C or more after boiling water treatment is 0% or more and 5% or less, and the elongation with the A fiber during the boiling water treatment. A multicolor mix comprising a low spontaneously extensible thick yarn (B fiber) having a rate difference of more than 1% and a difference in elongation rate from the A fiber during the dry heat treatment of more than 2%. A method for producing a spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn.
(1) DR 1 > 1.0
(2) MDR × 0.35 ≦ DR 1 ≦ MDR × 0.55
(3) Tg ≦ HR 1 ≦ Tg + 30 ° C.
(4) 0.90 ≦ DR 2 ≦ 1.40
(5) HR 2 <Tc
(6) DR 3 <0.90
(7) HP ≧ HR 2 + 50 ° C.
(However, DR 1 draw ratio in the first stretching zone, the maximum draw ratio MDR is measured at a preheating temperature 85-90 ° C., DR 2 draw ratio in the second region, DR 3 draw ratio of the third region, HR 1 is the surface temperature (° C.) of the take-off roller in the first stretching area, HR 2 is the surface temperature (° C.) of the take-up roller in the first relaxation treatment area, HP is the relaxation temperature (° C.) of the second relaxation treatment area, and Tg is Glass transition temperature (° C), Tc indicates crystallization temperature (° C))
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP34710995A JP3568305B2 (en) | 1995-12-15 | 1995-12-15 | Multicolor mixed tone spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn and method for producing the same |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP34710995A JP3568305B2 (en) | 1995-12-15 | 1995-12-15 | Multicolor mixed tone spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn and method for producing the same |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPH09157986A JPH09157986A (en) | 1997-06-17 |
| JP3568305B2 true JP3568305B2 (en) | 2004-09-22 |
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP34710995A Expired - Lifetime JP3568305B2 (en) | 1995-12-15 | 1995-12-15 | Multicolor mixed tone spontaneously extensible polyester filament yarn and method for producing the same |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP3568305B2 (en) |
Families Citing this family (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP4155853B2 (en) * | 2003-03-20 | 2008-09-24 | 帝人ファイバー株式会社 | Woven knitting |
| KR100958528B1 (en) * | 2005-10-17 | 2010-05-19 | 주식회사 효성 | Self-extending polyester composite yarn with multi-tone color and manufacturing method thereof |
-
1995
- 1995-12-15 JP JP34710995A patent/JP3568305B2/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JPH09157986A (en) | 1997-06-17 |
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