JP2925705B2 - 1st agent for permanent wave - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a first permanent wave agent capable of imparting an excellent wave to hair without damaging the hair.

[Conventional technology]

A conventional permanent wave agent is prepared by adding a basic substance such as ammonia, monoethanolamine or triethanolamine to an aqueous solution mainly containing a reducing agent such as a thioglycol agent or cysteine and adjusting the pH to 8 to 10. An aqueous solution of an oxidizing agent such as sodium bromate or hydrogen peroxide was used as a second agent.

And the metanism of waving the hair with such a permanent wave agent is a state in which the first agent is applied to the hair, the hair is wound around a rod, and the hair is curled.
The first agent cuts by reducing the disulfide bond of cystine contained in the keratin protein in the hair to form a mercapto group, and then the second agent oxidizes the mercapto group to form a new position on the hair. A disulfide bond is formed to immobilize the wave.

[Problems to be solved by the invention]

However, in the case of such a conventional permanent waving agent, the disulfide bond of cystine cleaved with the reducing agent of the first agent forms a disulfide bond completely as in the subsequent oxidation by the second agent. The cystine is not always regenerated, and part of the mercapto group generated from cystine by the treatment with the first agent is overoxidized by the second agent, or the mercapto group of thioglycolic acid or cysteine remaining in the hair. Side reactions, such as the formation of disulfide bonds by reacting with groups, may cause some of the keratin protein in the hair to elute, and the remaining portion of the hair to undergo physical or chemical changes, causing damage . As a result, the hair not only gives a sense of discomfort and crispness but also causes a great deal of damage to the hair.

Therefore, the present invention does not damage the hair,
An object of the present invention is to provide a first agent for a permanent wave that can impart an excellent wave to hair.

[Means for solving the problem]

The present invention relates to an acylated plant protein-derived peptide represented by the general formula (II) obtained based on the plant protein-derived peptide represented by the general formula (I), which will be described in detail later, or a salt thereof, and a compound represented by the general formula ( III) a vegetable protein derivative comprising at least one vegetable protein derivative selected from the group consisting of a quaternary ammonium derivative of a vegetable protein-derived peptide, a cationic surfactant, silicone, and a reducing agent; The above-mentioned object has been achieved by incorporating the compound into an agent.

As described in detail below, the vegetable protein derivative is derived from vegetable proteins such as soybean and wheat, and has a chemical structure similar to the teratin protein constituting hair, and has an amino group and a carboxyl group. It has the effect of adsorbing to the hair by the action of the side chains of various amino acids and of various amino acids, protecting the hair and recovering damaged hair. The plant protein derivative adsorbed on the hair remains on the hair without being washed away even by a light rinse before the second agent treatment, and suppresses excessive oxidation by the second agent and side reactions with a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid. And greatly reduce hair damage.

In addition, the vegetable protein derivative penetrates into the inside of the hair to enhance the moisturizing property of the hair, keeps the hair moist for a long period of time, and prevents excessive adsorption of the cationic surfactant to the hair. Hair damage due to excessive adsorption of the agent is prevented.

Cationic surfactants adsorb to the hair, softening the hair, making the hair easier to wave, improving the combability of the hair, and preventing the electrification of the hair. In addition, this cationic surfactant adsorbs on the hair and forms a film on the hair, covers the vegetable protein derivative that penetrates into the hair and keeps moisture retention, and suppresses the outflow of the vegetable protein derivative. , Hair will be kept moist for a long time.

Silicone smoothes the surface of the hair, gives the hair gloss and sheen, improves the combability of the hair,
Prevents split ends due to combing. In addition, this silicone also forms a coating on the hair similarly to the cationic surfactant, and suppresses the outflow of the plant protein derivative that has penetrated into the hair, so that the moisture retention by the plant protein derivative is maintained for a long time. Will be able to

The reducing agent functions as a main agent for reducing and cutting the disulfide bond of the hair and imparting a wave to the hair, as in the case of the conventional first agent for a permanent wave.

In the present invention, a specific vegetable protein derivative, a cationic surfactant, a silicone and a reducing agent are contained as essential components in the first agent for permanent wave as described above, but these vegetable protein derivatives, a cationic surfactant The details of silicone, silicone and reducing agent are as follows.

First, examples of vegetable protein derivatives include those obtained from the following based on:

General formula (I): (Wherein R ₁ is a side chain of various amino acids constituting the plant protein derived peptide, and n is 2 to 30). A plant protein derived peptide represented by the general formula (II): (In the formula, R ₁ and n are the same as those in the general formula (II), and R ₁ is a side chain of various amino acids constituting the plant protein derivative peptide, and n is 2 to 30. R ₂ Has 7 or more carbon atoms
21 long-chain alkyl groups, long-chain alkenyl groups having 7 to 21 carbon atoms or side chains of resin acids. M is H, Na, K or N
H ₃ , which is an onium of an organic alkanolamine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol. An acylated product of the plant protein-derived peptide or a salt thereof represented by the following general formula (III): (In the formula, R ₁ and n are the same as those in the general formula (I), and R ₃ , R ₄ and R ₅ are an alkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an alkenyl group having 2 to 20 carbon atoms or R One or two of R _{3 to} R ₅ are an alkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an alkenyl group having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and the rest is an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms and a hydroxy group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms. A quaternary ammonium derivative of a plant protein-derived peptide represented by the above general formula (I), wherein A is alkylene having 2 to 3 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkylene having 2 to 3 carbon atoms. Examples of the vegetable protein (protein) which is a raw material for obtaining the plant protein-derived peptide represented by the following are proteins such as cereals, beans, seeds, potatoes, buckwheat (buckwheat), seaweeds, and the like. For example, wheat, barley, hato (Job's tears), rye, oats (oat), corn, soy, almond, cashew nuts, sesame seeds (sesame), peanuts, potatoes, sweet potatoes, taro, Kyoto potato, Kon'nyakuimo, mountain potato,
Examples include proteins obtained from plants such as buckwheat, wakame (young cloth), ama nori (sweet laver), iwa nori (rock laver), kawa nori (river laver), and matsumo (pine algae) or processed products thereof.

In the above general formula (I), the amino acid whose side chain is represented by R ₁ includes alanine, glycine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, phenylalanine, tyrosine, serine, threonine, methionine, arginine, histidine, lysine , Aspartic acid, asparagine, glutamic acid, glutamine, cystine, tryptophan and the like. An analysis example of the composition ratio of these amino acids is shown in Table 1. In Table 1, asparagine and glutamine are oxidized in the course of analysis and are included in aspartic acid and glutamic acid, respectively. Since cystine has two amino groups and two carboxyl groups, the composition ratio in Table 1 is indicated as half cystine.

The plant protein-derived peptide represented by the above general formula (I) is derived from a natural plant protein, is less irritating to hair and skin, has an amino group or a carboxyl group derived from the plant protein, Furthermore, it has an effect of adsorbing to hair by the action of the side chains of various amino acids, preventing damage to the hair due to permanent wave treatment, and recovering damaged hair. In addition, the content of glutamic acid and aspartic acid is an animal protein-derived peptide (an animal protein-derived peptide obtained by hydrolyzing animal proteins such as keratin, collagen, and silk).
More and better moisturizing than animal protein derived peptides.

The plant protein-derived peptide represented by the general formula (I) is obtained by hydrolyzing a plant protein using an acid, an alkali, or a protease. Then, upon hydrolysis, the amount of acid, alkali, or enzyme to be added, the reaction temperature, and the reaction time are appropriately selected so that the plant plant-derived peptide n obtained is 2 to 30, that is, the molecular weight is about 200 to It can be about 4,500 preferred (when the value of n is small, it happens to have low molecular weight amino acids,
When n = 2, the molecular weight may be about 200.
When the value of is large, it is unlikely that only low-molecular-weight amino acids are lined up, and high-molecular-weight amino acids also enter. Therefore, when n = 30, the molecular weight is about 4,500.
May be.)

For acid hydrolysis of vegetable proteins, for example, inorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid, nitric acid and hydrobromic acid, and organic acids such as acetic acid and formic acid are used.

In addition, upon alkaline hydrolysis of vegetable protein,
For example, inorganic alkalis such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, and lithium carbonate are used.

In the case of enzymatic hydrolysis of plant proteins, for example, an acidic proteolytic enzyme such as pepsin, proctase A or proctase B, a neutral or alkaline proteolytic enzyme such as papain, bromelain, thermolysin, trypsin, pronase or chymotrypsin is used. . Bacterial neutral or alkaline proteolytic enzymes such as subtilisin and staphylococcal protease can also be used.

The acylated product of the plant protein-derived peptide represented by the general formula (II) or a salt thereof is obtained by acylating the plant protein-derived peptide represented by the general formula (I) with a higher fatty acid or a resin acid. Which improves the permeability to hair and imparts an oily component based on higher fatty acids or resin acids to the hair, so that the general formula (I)
In addition to the properties of the plant protein-derived peptide represented by
The effect of giving gloss and moisture to hair is further improved.

Specific examples of the acylated product of the plant protein-derived peptide represented by the general formula (II) or a salt thereof include:
For example, potassium salts of myristic acid condensates of soy protein-derived peptides and wheat protein-derived peptides, triethanolamine salts of coconut oil fatty acid condensates, ammonium salts of palmitic acid condensates, potassium salts of undecylenic acid condensates, isostearic acid condensates 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salt, oleic acid condensate sodium salt, coconut oil fatty acid condensate, resin acid condensate potassium salt and the like.

The quaternary ammonium derivative of the plant protein-derived peptide represented by the general formula (III) is represented by the general formula (I)
Wherein the terminal amino group of the plant protein-derived peptide is quaternized, and the quaternization enhances the property of adsorbing to hair, and is represented by the general formula (I). The effect of the plant protein-derived peptide is more remarkably exhibited.

Specific examples of the quaternary ammonium derivative of the plant protein-derived peptide represented by the general formula (III) include, for example, a soybean protein-derived peptide and a trimethylammonio-2-hydroxypropyl derivative of a wheat protein-derived peptide. , Lauryldimethylammonio-2-
Hydroxypropyl derivative, triethylammonio-2
-Hydroxypropyl derivative, coconut oil alkyldimethylammonio-2-hydroxypropyl derivative, stearyldimethylammonio-2-hydroxypropyl derivative, benzyldimethylammonio-2-hydroxypropyl derivative and the like.

These vegetable protein derivatives can be used alone or as a mixture of two or more.

The content of the vegetable protein derivative in the first agent for permanent wave is 0.1 to 5% by weight,
In particular, the content is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 2% by weight. In other words, the first for permanent wave of vegetable protein derivatives
When the content in the agent is less than the above range, the effect of protecting the hair, keeping the moisture of the hair good, and preventing the excessive adsorption of the cationic surfactant cannot be sufficiently exerted. In addition, even if the content of the vegetable protein derivative in the first agent for permanent wave is more than the above range, no increase in the effect is observed, and the hair remains on the hair and the hair may be sticky.

Cationic surfactants adsorb to the hair, softening the hair, making the hair easier to wave, improving the combability of the hair, preventing the electrification of the hair, and forming a coating on the hair. Thus, the plant protein derivative that has penetrated into the hair is prevented from being lost by shampooing or the like, the moisture retention of the plant protein derivative is maintained for a long time, and the moisture of the hair is maintained for a long time.

Examples of such a cationic surfactant include those represented by the following general formula (V).

General formula (V): [In the formula, one or two of R _{7 to} R ₁₀ are represented by the general formula R ₁₁ (OCH ₂ CH _{2 a} (where R ₁₁ is an alkyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and 8 to 24 carbon atoms) Alkenyl group having 8 to 8 carbon atoms
A hydroxyalkyl group having 24 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkenyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, a is 0 to 10), and the rest is an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms; (However, R ₁₂ is H or hydrogen or a methyl group, b is 1
To 15) or a benzyl group;
Is a halogen or an alkyl sulfate group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms.] Specific examples of the cationic surfactant represented by the general formula (V) include, for example, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and chloride. Cetostearyltrimethylammonium, stearylbis (diethylene glycol) hydroxyethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium bromide, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium iodide, oleylbenzylmethylammonium chloride And oleylbis [polyoxyethylene (15EO)] methylammonium chloride.

These cationic surfactants can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

The content of these cationic surfactants in the first permanent wave agent is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2 to 2% by weight. In other words, if the content of the cationic surfactant in the first agent for permanent wave is less than the above range, the effect cannot be sufficiently exerted, and the cationic surfactant cannot be used for permanent wave. If the content in one agent is more than the above range, the amount adsorbed on the hair becomes too large,
In addition to causing inconvenience on the touch, such as making the hair extremely soft, elution of protein components of the hair and reduction of the moisture retention of the hair,
There is a possibility that hair pats and the like may occur.

Silicone smoothes the surface of the hair, imparts gloss and gloss to the hair, improves the combability of the hair, prevents splitting caused by combing, and coats the hair on the hair in the same manner as a cationic surfactant. To prevent the plant protein derivative that has penetrated into the hair from being lost due to hair washing, etc., to maintain the moisturizing property of the plant protein derivative for a long time, and to keep the hair moist for a long time .

Examples of such silicone include the following.

General formula (VI): (In the formula, R ₁₃ is a methyl group or a phenyl group. However, all of R ₁₃ are not phenyl groups. R ₁₄ is a methyl group, a methoxy group or a hydroxyl group, and c is 0 to 3,
The specific examples of the linear dimethylpolysiloxane or the linear methylphenylpolysiloxane represented by the general formula (VI) include: For example, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane, and c is 3,
A chain dimethylpolysiloxane having a molecular weight of 000 or less, a chain methylphenylpolysiloxane having a c of 3,000 or less, and the like.

General formula (VII): (In the formula, R ₁₅ is a methyl group or a phenyl group, and d is 3 to 7.) Specific examples of the cyclic silicone represented by the general formula (VII) include: Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, tetradecamethylcycloheptasiloxane and the like.

General formula (VIII): Wherein R ₁₆ is a methyl group, a phenyl group or R ₁₈ ;
R ₁₇ is a methyl group, a methoxy group, a hydroxyl group or R ₁₈ .
f is 0 to 3,000. However, all of the above R ₁₆ is R ₁₈
But at least one is R ₁₈ and R
It never becomes R ₁₈ all ₁₇ at least one is R
_And R ₁₈ is a group represented by the general formula — (CH ₂ ) gO (C ₃ H ₆ O) h (C ₂ H
₄ O) iR ₁₉ (where R ₁₉ is hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, g is 1 to 5, h is 0 to 500, and i is 0 to 5
And a specific example of the polyether-modified silicone represented by the general formula (VIII) is, for example, dimethylsiloxane-methyl (poly Oxyethylene) siloxane copolymer (SH3771C, SH3772C, SH37 manufactured by Toray Silicone Co., Ltd.)
73C, SH3775C, SH3746, Toshiba Silicone TSF4440, T
SF4445, TSF4446), dimethylsiloxane-methyl (polyoxyethylene) siloxane-methyl (polyoxypropylene) siloxane copolymer (Toray Silicone Co., Ltd.)
SH3748, SH3749, TSF4452 manufactured by Toshiba Silicone Co., Ltd., KF351A, KF352A, KF353A, KF610A manufactured by Shin-Etsu Silicone Co., Ltd., and dimethylsiloxane / methyl (polyoxypropylene) siloxane copolymer (TSF4460 manufactured by Toshiba Silicone Co., Ltd.).

General formula (IX): Wherein R ₂₀ is a methyl group, a phenyl group or R ₂₂ ;
R ₂₁ is a methyl group, a methoxy group or a hydroxyl group. j is 0 to 3,000. However, the R ₂₀ that all has never become R ₂₂ at least one is R _22, R ₂₂ is formula -R ₂₃ -NH ₂ (provided that, R ₂₃ is an alkylene having 1 to 6 carbon atoms in certain) or the general formula _{-R 23 -NH-R 24 -NH 2} ( provided that, R ₂₃ is the same as defined above, R ₂₄ is a group represented by a is) alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms] Amino-modified silicone represented by Specific examples of the amino-modified silicone represented by the general formula (IX) include, for example, SM8702C manufactured by Toray Silicone Co., Ltd., KF393, KF857-865, and KF manufactured by Shin-Etsu Silicone Co., Ltd.
An amino-modified silicone commercially available under a trade name such as 867 is included.

General formula (X): Wherein R ₂₅ is a methyl group, a phenyl group or R ₂₇ ;
R ₂₆ is a methyl group, a methoxy group or a hydroxyl group. k is 0 to 3,000. However, the above R ₂₅ is not all R ₂₇ , but at least one is R ₂₇ , and R ₂₇ is a general formula (However, R ₂₈ is alkylene of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, R ₂₉
Is alkylene or hydroxyalkylene having 2 to 4 carbon atoms. 0 to 2 of R _{30 to} R ₃₂ are an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and the rest are an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, or a benzyl group. Y is a halogen, NO _3, SO _4/2 or a quaternary ammonium modified silicone represented by a group] represented by carbon number from 1 to 3 of alkyl sulfate group) the general formula (X) Specific examples of the quaternary ammonium-modified silicone represented by are, for example, ABIL9905 manufactured by Goldschmidt and UC manufactured by Union Carbide.
A quaternary ammonium-modified silicone marketed under a trade name such as AR SILICONE ALE56 is exemplified.

General formula (XI): Wherein R ₃₃ is a methyl group, a phenyl group or R ₃₅ ;
R ₃₄ is a methyl group, a methoxy group, a hydroxyl group or R ₃₅ .
Is from 0 to 3,000. However, all of the above R ₃₃ are R ₃₅
Never become, Although it is not made to R ₃₅ all R _34, at least one of R ₃₃ or R ₃₄ is R _35, R ₃₅ is formula -R ₃₆ -O-R ₃₇ -(NH-CHR ₃₈ -CO) mOH (however, R ₃₆
Is _{- (CH 2) p (OC} 3 H 6) q (OC 2 H 4) r- (p is 2
6, q is 0 to 500, and r is 0 to 500), and R ₃₇ is alkylene having 2 to 4 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkylene having 2 to 4 carbon atoms. R ₃₈ is a side chain of various amino acids constituting the peptide, and m is a group represented by 2 to 30). Peptide-modified silicone represented by the following general formula (XI) Specific examples of the peptide-modified silicone include, for example, a reaction product of an epoxy-modified silicone (Silaprene FM0511 and FM0521 manufactured by Chisso Corporation) with an animal and plant protein-derived peptide.

These silicones can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

The content of the silicone in the first agent for permanent wave is 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly 0.5 to 5% by weight.
A range of 2% by weight is preferred. That is, when the content of the silicone in the first agent for permanent wave is less than the above range, the effect of the silicone is not sufficiently exhibited,
Also, even if the content of the silicone in the first agent for permanent wave is more than the above range, the effect is not increased and the effect of the vegetable protein derivative is impaired.

The reducing agent serves as a main agent for reducing and cutting disulfide bonds of the hair so that the hair is waved. Examples of the reducing agent include thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, and thioglycolic acid. Thioglycolates such as monoethanolamine glycolate; esters of thioglycolic acid such as glycerin thioglycolate; salts of cysteine such as cysteine and cysteine hydrochloride; thioglycerol, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, cysteamine, and cysteamine salts And sulfites such as sodium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, potassium sulfite and ammonium sulfite.

These reducing agents can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

The content of the reducing agent in the first permanent wave agent is preferably 1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 8% by weight. That is, if the content of the reducing agent in the first agent for permanent wave is less than the above range, the hair cannot be sufficiently waved and the content of the reducing agent in the first agent for permanent wave When the ratio is more than the above range, disulfide bonds in the hair are excessively reduced, hair protein is eluted significantly, and the hair is damaged.

The first agent for permanent wave of the present invention comprises the above-mentioned vegetable protein derivative, cationic surfactant, silicone and reducing agent as essential components, and is prepared by including these in water. Also,
Other components can be appropriately added as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.

Such components include, for example, alkyl sulfates such as ammonium lauryl sulfate, ethanolamine lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, polyoxyethylene (2EO) lauryl tereyl sulfate triethanolamine (EO is ethylene oxide). Where the value before EO indicates the number of moles of ethylene oxide added), polyoxyethylene (3EO) alkyl (any of 11 to 15 carbon atoms or a mixture of two or more), and polyoxyethylene alkyl such as sodium ether sulfate Alkyl benzene sulfonates such as ether sulfate, sodium lauryl benzene sulfonate, and triethanolamine lauryl benzene sulfonate; and polyoxyethylene alcohols such as sodium polyoxyethylene (3EO) tridecyl ether acetate. Kill ether acetate,
Coconut oil fatty acid sarcosine sodium, lauroyl sarcosine triethanolamine, lauroylmethyl-β-alanine sodium, lauroyl-L-glutamate sodium, lauroyl-L-glutamate triethanolamine, coconut oil fatty acid-sodium L-glutamate,
N-acyl amino acid salts such as coconut oil fatty acid-L-glutamate triethanolamine, coconut oil fatty acid sodium methyltaurate, sodium lauroylmethyltaurine, sodium ether sulfate alkane sulfonate, hydrogenated coconut oil fatty acid sodium glycerin sulfate, undecylenoyl amide ethyl Disodium sulfosuccinate, sodium octylphenoxydiethoxyethylsulfonate,
Oleic acid amide disodium sulfosuccinate, dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, polyoxyethylene alkyl (carbon number
12-15) ether phosphate (8-10EO) sodium polyoxyethylene oleyl ether phosphate, sodium polyoxyethylene cetyl ether phosphate, disodium lauryl polyoxyethylene sulfosuccinate, sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl ether phosphate, lauryl sulfo Anionic surfactants such as sodium acetate and sodium tetradecenesulfonate, 2-alkyl-N-
Carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethyl imidazolinium betaine, undecyl hydroxyethyl imidazolium betaine sodium, undecyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl imidazolinium betaine, stearyl dihydroxyethyl betaine, stearyl dimethylamino acetate betaine, coconut oil Alkyl betaine, coconut oil fatty acid amidopropyl betaine, coconut oil alkyl N-carboxyethyl-N-hydroxyethylimidazolinium betaine sodium, coconut oil alkyl N-
Carboxyethoxyethyl-N-carboxyethylimidazolinium disodium hydroxide, coconut oil alkyl N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethylimidazolinium disodium lauryl sulfate, N-coconut fatty acid acyl L-arginine ethyl-DL- Amphoteric surfactants such as pyrrolidone carboxylate, polyoxyethylene alkyl (C12-14) ether (7EO), polyoxyethylene octyl phenyl ether, polyoxyethylene oleyl ether, polyoxyethylene glyceryl oleate, polyoxyethylene Stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene cetyl stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene sorbitol lanolin (40EO), polyoxyethylene nonyl phenyl ether, Nonionic surfactants such as polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene decyl tetradecyl ether, polyoxyethylene lanolin, polyoxyethylene lanolin alcohol, polyoxypropylene stearyl ether, cationized cellulose, cationization Cationic polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, poly (diallyldimethylammonium chloride), polyvinylpyridine, polyethyleneimine, synthetic polymers such as amphoteric polymers and anionic polymers, diethanolamide isostearate, monoethanolamide undecylenate, diethanolamide oleate, cow Fatty acid monoethanolamide, hardened bovine fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid diethanolamide, Stearate diethylaminoethyl amide, monoethanol amide stearic acid, myristic acid diethanolamide, coconut oil fatty acid ethanolamide, coconut oil fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric acid isopropanol amide, lauric acid ethanolamide, lauric acid diethanolamide,
Thickeners such as lanolin fatty acid diethanolamide, waxes, paraffins, fatty acid esters, glycerides, fats and oils such as animal and vegetable oils, animal and plant extracts, polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, and glycerin , Humectants such as polyethylene glycol, lower alcohols such as ethanol, methanol, propyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol, L-aspartic acid, sodium L-aspartate, DL-alanine, L-arginine, glycine, L-glutamic acid, L- Cysteine, L
-Amino acids such as threonine.

〔The invention's effect〕

ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to the 1st agent for permanent waves of this invention, a favorable wave can be applied to hair, without damaging hair and maintaining a favorable condition of hair.

That is, the acylated product of the plant protein-derived peptide represented by the general formula (II) or a salt thereof, and the plant protein-derived peptide represented by the general formula (III) contained in the first agent for permanent wave of the present invention. At least one vegetable protein derivative selected from the group consisting of the following quaternary ammonium derivatives prevents hair damage due to permanent wave treatment, restores damaged hair, and keeps hair moist. In addition, the cationic surfactant softens the hair, makes the hair easier to wave, improves the combing of the hair, and suppresses the outflow of the plant protein derivative that has penetrated into the hair. To maintain the quality for a long time. In addition, the silicone smoothes the surface of the hair, imparts gloss and luster to the hair, improves the combability of the hair, and prevents the generation of split ends due to combing.

〔Example〕

Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples.

Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 Five kinds of first agents for permanent wave having the compositions shown in Table 2 were prepared, and each of the first agents for permanent wave and a commercially available second agent was used to make permanent on hair. A wave treatment was applied, and the suppleness of the hair, gloss of the hair, setting power, and set retention were examined.

In Example 1, a potassium salt of a coconut oil fatty acid condensate of a soybean protein-derived peptide (n = 5) was used as a vegetable protein derivative, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride was used as a cationic surfactant, and silicone was used. Used is a polyether-modified silicone (SH3749 manufactured by Toray Silicone Co., Ltd.). In addition, n shown in parentheses after the vegetable protein derivative peptide (in this example, the potassium salt of the coconut oil fatty acid condensate of the soy protein derivative peptide (n = 5)) represents the vegetable protein derivative. In the general formula, n represents the number of amino acids.

The amount of each component in Table 2 is based on weight, and the solid content is indicated in parentheses after the name of the component when the amount is not solid.

Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 prepared as described above
Using the first agents for permanent wave Nos. To 4, permanent wave treatment was performed on 10 female professional panelists, and a five-step evaluation was performed according to the items shown in Table 3, and the results are shown in Table 3. In the above-mentioned permanent wave treatment, a 7% aqueous solution of sodium bromate was used as the second agent.

Amino acid analysis was performed on the hair subjected to the permanent wave treatment, and cysteic acid generated by the permanent wave treatment was quantified. The amount of cysteic acid produced indicates the degree of damage to the hair, and the larger the amount produced, the greater the damage to the hair. The result (average value)
Are shown in Table 3.

Examples 2 to 3 and Comparative Example 5 Three kinds of first agents for permanent wave having the compositions shown in Table 4 were prepared, and the same evaluation as in Example 1 was performed using one agent for permanent wave. .

In Example 2, a potassium salt of a coconut oil fatty acid condensate of a soybean protein-derived peptide (n = 5) was used as a vegetable protein derivative, benzalkonium chloride was used as a cationic surfactant, and amino was used as a silicone. Modified silicone (SM8702C manufactured by Toray Silicon Co., Ltd.) is used.

In Example 3, as a plant protein derivative, N-
(3-Lauryldimethylammonio-2-hydroxypropyl) soy protein derived peptide (n = 10) is used.

In Comparative Example 5, a collagen-derived peptide (n = 10) was used without using a plant protein derivative.

The amounts of each component in Table 4 are based on weight, and solids concentrations after parenthesis are shown in parentheses for components whose amounts are not solids.

Example 1 was prepared using the first agents for permanent wave of Examples 2-3 and Comparative Example 5 prepared as described above.
Were evaluated in the same manner as above, and the amount of cysteic acid produced was measured. Table 5 shows the results.

Example 4 Using a potassium salt of a coconut oil fatty acid condensate of a soybean protein-derived peptide (n = 5) as a vegetable protein derivative,
Olebis [polyoxyethylene (15EO)] methylammonium chloride is used as the cationic surfactant, and a cationized silicone polymer (ABIL9905 manufactured by Goldschmidt) is used as the silicone. Was prepared.

The amount of each component is based on weight, and when the amount is not the solid content, the solid content concentration is shown in parentheses after the component name.

Potassium salt of coconut oil fatty condensate of soy protein-derived peptide (n = 5) 1.2 Oleylbis chloride [polyoxyethylene (15EO) methylammonium] 0.6 Cationic silicone polymer (ABIL9905, manufactured by Goldschmidt) 0.5 DL-cysteine hydrochloride 7.0 Monoethanolamine 1.0 Ammonium bicarbonate 2.3 Emulsifier 1.5 EDTA-2Na 0.1 Ammonia water (25%) Make pH 8.5 Sterile ion-exchanged water Make 100.0 total First agent for permanent wave of Example 4 prepared as described above When a 2% aqueous solution of sodium bromate was used as the second agent and the hair was subjected to a permanent wave treatment, the hair was given a good wave, and the setting power and the setting persistence were good. The hair after the wave treatment was supple and glossy.

Example 5 N- (3-triethylammonio-2-hydroxypropyl) soybean protein-derived peptide (n = 5) was used as a vegetable protein derivative, and stearyl dimethylbenzylammonium chloride was used as a cationic surfactant.
Using an emulsified methylpolysiloxane (BY22-007 manufactured by Toray Silicone Co., Ltd.) as the silicone, a first agent for a permanent wave having the following composition was prepared. The amount of each component is based on weight, and when the amount is not the solid content, the solid content concentration is shown in parentheses after the component name.

N- (3-triethylammonio-2-hydroxypropyl) soy protein-derived peptide (n = 5) 0.8 Stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride 0.8 Emulsified methylpolysiloxane (manufactured by Toray Silicone Co., Ltd.)
BY22-007) 1.0 Sodium bisulfite 3.5 Monoethanolamine pH 7.2 Ammonium bicarbonate 2.0 Emulsifier 1.2 EDTA-2Na 0.1 Perfume Appropriate amount Sterilized ion-exchanged water Total 100.0 Permanent of Example 5 prepared as described above Using a first agent for waving, using a 7% aqueous sodium bromate solution for the second agent, and performing a permanent wave treatment on the hair, the hair is given a good wave,
The setting power and the setting durability were good, and the hair after the permanent wave treatment was supple and glossy.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on front page (58) Field surveyed (Int.Cl. ⁶ , DB name) A61K 7/00-7/50

Claims (4)

(57) [Claims] 1. An acylated plant protein-derived peptide represented by the following general formula (II) or a salt thereof and a quaternary ammonium derivative of a plant protein-derived peptide represented by the following general formula (III): A first agent for permanent wave, comprising: at least one plant protein derivative selected from the group; a cationic surfactant; silicone; and a reducing agent. General formula (II): (Wherein, R ₁ is a side chain of various amino acids constituting the plant protein derived peptide, n is 2 to 30. R ₂ is a long chain alkyl group having 7 to 21 carbon atoms, and 7 to 21 carbon atoms. Is a long chain alkenyl group or a side chain of a resin acid, wherein M is H, Na, K or NH ₃ , monoethanolamine, diethanolamine,
Triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-
Is an onium of an organic alkanolamine such as propanol or 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol), or an acylated product of a peptide derived from a plant protein represented by the general formula (III): (In the formula, R ₁ and n are the same as those in the general formula (II), and R ₃ , R ₄ , and R ₅ are an alkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 carbon atoms.
-20 alkenyl groups or one or two of R ₃ -R ₅
Is an alkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an alkenyl group having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and the rest is an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group or a benzyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and A is Alkylene of number 2-3 or carbon number 2
A quaternary ammonium derivative of a plant protein-derived peptide represented by the formula: 2. The first permanent wave agent according to claim 1, wherein the cationic surfactant is represented by the following general formula (V). General formula (V): [In the formula, one or two of R _{7 to} R ₁₀ are represented by the general formula R ₁₁ (OCH ₂ CH _{2 a} (where R ₁₁ is an alkyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and 8 to 24 carbon atoms) Alkenyl group having 8 to 8 carbon atoms
A hydroxyalkyl group having 24 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkenyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, a is 0 to 10), and the rest is an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms; (Where R ₁₂ is H or CH ₃ , b is 1 to 15) or a benzyl group, and X is a halogen or an alkyl sulfate group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms. 3. The first agent for permanent wave according to claim 1, wherein the silicone is at least one member selected from the group consisting of: General formula (VI): (In the formula, R ₁₃ is a methyl group or a phenyl group. However, all of R ₁₃ are not phenyl groups. R ₁₄ is a methyl group, a methoxy group or a hydroxyl group, and c is 0 to 3,
A linear dimethylpolysiloxane or a linear methylphenylpolysiloxane represented by the general formula (VII): (Wherein, R ₁₅ is a methyl group or a phenyl group, and d is 3 to 7.) A cyclic silicone represented by the general formula (VIII): Wherein R ₁₆ is a methyl group, a phenyl group or R ₁₈ ;
R ₁₇ is a methyl group, a methoxy group, a hydroxyl group or R ₁₈ .
f is 0 to 3,000. However, all of the above R ₁₆ is R ₁₈
But at least one is R ₁₈ and R
It never becomes R ₁₈ all ₁₇ at least one is R
_And R ₁₈ is a group represented by the general formula — (CH ₂ ) gO (C ₃ H ₆ O) h (C ₂ H
₄ O) iR ₁₉ (where R ₁₉ is hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, g is 1 to 5, h is 0 to 500, and i is 0 to 5
A polyether-modified silicone (IX) represented by the following formula: Wherein R ₂₀ is a methyl group, a phenyl group or R ₂₂ ;
R ₂₁ is a methyl group, a methoxy group or a hydroxyl group. j is 0 to 3,000. However, the R ₂₀ all have the It is not at least one to become R ₂₂ is R _22, also R ₂₂ is the formula -R ₂₃ -NH ₂ (provided that, R ₂₃ is an alkylene having 1 to 6 carbon atoms in a) or the general formula _{-R 23 -NH-R 24 -NH 2} ( provided that, R ₂₃ is the same as defined above, R ₂₄ is a group represented by a is) alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms] An amino-modified silicone represented by the general formula (X): Wherein R ₂₅ is a methyl group, a phenyl group or R ₂₇ ;
R ₂₆ is a methyl group, a methoxy group or a hydroxyl group. k is 0 to 3,000. However, the above R ₂₅ is not all R ₂₇ , but at least one is R ₂₇ , and R ₂₇ is a general formula (However, R ₂₈ is alkylene of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, R ₂₉
Is alkylene or hydroxyalkylene having 2 to 4 carbon atoms. 0 to 2 of R _{30 to} R ₃₂ are an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and the rest are an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, or a benzyl group. Y is a halogen, NO _3, SO _4/2 or a quaternary ammonium modified silicones general formula represented by a group] represented by carbon number from 1 to 3 of alkyl sulfate group) (XI): Wherein R ₃₃ is a methyl group, a phenyl group or R ₃₅ ;
R ₃₄ is a methyl group, a methoxy group, a hydroxyl group or R ₃₅ .
Is from 0 to 3,000. However, all of the above R ₃₃ are R ₃₅
Not to become, also all of the ₃₄ never becomes R _35, at least one of R ₃₃ or R ₃₄ is R _35, R ₃₅ is formula -R ₃₆ -O-R ₃₇ - (NH-CHR ₃₈ -CO) mO
H) However, R ₃₆ is _{- (CH 2) p (OC} 3 H 6) q (OC 2 H 4) r
— (P is 2 to 6, q is 0 to 500, r is 0 to 500), and R ₃₇ is alkylene having 2 to 4 carbon atoms or 2 alkyl atoms.
~ 4 hydroxyalkylene. R ₃₈ is a side chain of various amino acids constituting the peptide, and m is a group represented by 2 to 30). 4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the content of the vegetable protein derivative is 0.1 to 5% by weight, the content of the cationic surfactant is 0.1 to 5% by weight, the content of the silicone is 0.1 to 5% by weight, and the reducing agent is used. The first agent for a permanent wave according to claim 1, wherein the content of is 1 to 10% by weight.