JP2630021B2 - Polyester filament fabric - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a polyester filament fabric. More specifically, the present invention relates to a polyester multifilament woven fabric made of a mixed yarn having a novel refreshing feeling without a strong twist.

[Problems to be Solved by the Related Art and the Invention] In order to obtain a refreshing fabric with polyester, conventionally, strong twisting is performed to impart unevenness to the surface of the yarn, thereby improving skin separation and sharpness. And a method of fusing at the time of temporary twisting of yarn.

However, in the case of the method of giving a sharp twist by applying a strong twist, there is no swelling of the fabric because the yarn is wrapped, and in the case of the method of fusion, the texture becomes rough, and the non-twisted fabric of triacetate or It was not possible to obtain a woven fabric having a smooth texture such as a sweet twisted woven fabric.

On the other hand, as an elliptical fiber having a cross section having a slit, for example, a fiber having a single fiber fineness of 10 to 25 denier (hereinafter referred to as d) is described in JP-A-63-190083. ), So that the desired refreshing feeling of the present invention cannot be obtained.

JP-A-57-51808, JP-A-50-59524, and JP-A-58-8181 also describe fibers having an elliptical cross-sectional structure having a slit. This is also suitable for artificial fur and fur-like pile fabric, and has a strong slime and therefore cannot provide a refreshing feeling.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 57-29626 also describes an elliptical fiber having a slit, but in the case of a woven fabric, the swelling is insufficient because a single yarn is used.

[Means for Solving the Problems] In order to solve the above problems, the polyester filament woven fabric of the present invention has the following configuration. That is, a polyester filament woven fabric comprising a core-sheath composite structure mixed yarn of two types of filaments, wherein the filament constituting the sheath portion has an elliptical cross section having a slit-like groove, and the filament of the sheath portion filament is a single fiber. The ratio of the bending stiffness of the filament constituting the core to the bending stiffness of the single fiber of the filament is 0.2 or more and 0.8 or less, and the total fineness ratio of the sheath filament and the core filament is 0.3 or more and 0.7 or less. A polyester filament woven fabric having an initial tensile modulus of 8 g / d or more and 18 g / d or less.

Even if the fabric has a refreshing texture with a smooth texture, swelling and moderate tension are necessary, and two types of swelling are required to give swelling to the threads in the fabric and improve the tailoring appearance of the product. It uses a mixed core / sheath composite structure yarn.

The cross-sectional shape of the filament constituting the sheath portion of the core-sheath composite structure mixed yarn is made to have a low bending rigidity even if the single yarn fineness is increased, and an elliptical shape to improve color depth, gloss, etc. It is.

The flatness of the ellipse is preferably 1.5 or more, more preferably 2.0 or more, from the viewpoint of improving color depth, gloss, and the like, and lowering bending rigidity. In the present invention, the flatness refers to the ratio of the major axis to the minor axis.

Further, the cross-sectional shape of the sheath filament can reduce the contact area when touched by hand, the skin separation is improved,
It has not a simple elliptical shape but a slit-shaped groove (hereinafter, slit) to give a smooth texture. Further, when the user touches the slits or the fingerprints with each other strongly, an appropriate squeaky texture is given, and an effect of increasing a sense of quality can be exhibited.

In the present invention, the slit means a concave portion,
It is not limited to clear rectangular cuts,
For example, it includes a gentle concave portion as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 and a wedge-shaped concave portion as shown in FIGS. 3 and 6.

The number of the slits is preferably 4 to 8 from the viewpoint of reducing the contact area and giving a smooth texture.

In the case where only the elliptical shape has no slit, it becomes undesirably shiny and has a slimy texture due to a large contact area when touched by hand.

Furthermore, with short fibers, the tip of the fluff is more likely to touch the hand, so that the refreshing sensation aimed at by the present invention cannot be obtained.

Note that examples of the elliptical cross section having a slit include cross sections as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2.

The initial tensile modulus of the mixed fiber used in the present invention is 8 g / d or more and 18 or more.
g / d or less. If it is less than 8 g / d, the tension is insufficient, and if it exceeds 18 g / d, the texture becomes coarse and hard, and any favorable smooth texture cannot be obtained.

The measurement of the initial tensile modulus of the mixed yarn was in accordance with the initial tensile resistance of JIS L 10736.10. However, the type of testing machine used was a constant-speed tension type, the gripping interval was 10 cm, and the pulling speed was 20 cm /
As a fraction, the measurement was performed on a mixed fiber obtained by decomposing the woven fabric.

In order to obtain a mixed fiber having an initial tensile modulus of 8 g / d or more and 18 g / d or less, in a combination of a fineness ratio of the low shrinkage yarn and the high shrinkage yarn of 0.3 or more and 0.7 or less, for example, random heat treatment to reduce the shrinkage It can be obtained by using a high shrinkage yarn for the filament as the yarn and the yarn to be mixed with the filament.

That is, the core-sheath composite structure, that is, the high shrinkage yarn of the core portion is formed by utilizing the difference in heat shrinkage caused by the heat treatment of the woven fabric using the mixed yarn composed of the two types of filaments having different shrinkage rates in the dyeing process. A structure in which a large number of elliptical multi-slit yarns, which are low shrinkage yarns of the sheath, appear on the surface of the woven fabric inside the woven fabric.

From the yarn length difference, that is, from the average single fiber length x of the low shrinkage yarn and the average single fiber length y of the high shrinkage yarn when the mixed fiber taken out by decomposing the woven fabric is cut into a fixed length, [(x -Y) / y]
The value obtained with × 100 is 3 from the viewpoint of imparting swelling.
% Or more is preferable.

For example, the low shrinkable yarn A is a cationic dyeable polyester, the high shrinkage yarn B is a normal dispersible dyeable polyester,
It is also possible to produce a refreshing fabric having a heather-like or kasuri-like color effect by dyeing and a smooth texture.

The ratio between the bending stiffness of the single filament of the sheath filament used in the present invention and the bending stiffness of the single fiber of the filament constituting the core is from 0.2 to 0.8. Bending rigidity ratio
If it is less than 0.2, the texture will be rough and lacking. On the other hand, when it exceeds 0.8, the texture becomes too corey.

In the present invention, the bending rigidity of a single fiber means a second moment of area of the single fiber. Typical [pi] d ^4/64 in the case of a round cross-section comprising a diameter d, also, in the case of an elliptical cross section with a major axis a and minor axis b shown in FIG. 1 is a rigid bending πab ^3/64.

The total fineness ratio of the sheath filament and the core filament constituting the core-sheath composite structure mixed fiber used in the present invention is 0.3 or more and 0.7 or more.
The following is assumed. If the total fineness ratio is less than 0.3, the core is too thin and the tension is insufficient, resulting in an undesirable texture with fluff. On the other hand, when it exceeds 0.7, even if it is a core-sheath composite structure, the ratio of exposing the core filament to the woven fabric surface increases, and the good skin separation due to the reduction of the contact area is reduced by half.

As a method of performing a random heat treatment on the sheath filament, for example, an apparatus shown in FIG. 5 is used.

That is, in FIG.
It travels in the order of the yarn vibration device 5, the heat treatment device 6, and the take-up roller 7. The peripheral speed of the roller 4 is set to be higher than the peripheral speed of the roller 7, and therefore, the yarn in the portion that comes into contact with the heat treatment device 6 has a slack and vibrates at the same time as the yarn, and the surface of the heat treatment device 6 is randomly formed. Contact, random heat treatment, and low shrinkage.

Examples of the method of blending the core filament and the sheath filament include air entanglement and twisting.

In order to improve the color development of the polyester filament fabric of the present invention and to further improve the smooth texture, at least a cationic dyeable polyester having a strong dry feeling as a polymer of the sheath filament, for example, dimethyl (5-sodium) It is preferable to use a modified polyester in which the sulfo) isophthalate is copolymerized with 0.7 to 5 mol% with respect to terephthalic acid. Fine irregularities can be formed on the surface, and a smooth texture is promoted, which is more preferable.

Examples of a method of obtaining an elliptical cross section having a slit include a method of melt-spinning using a die as shown in FIG. 4, a method of reducing an alkali weight by a polymer disposed at a position 2 as shown in FIG. A method of removing the polymer disposed at the position 3 by alkali treatment from the conjugate fiber having the polymer having an increased value at the position 3 is exemplified.

In the present invention, in order to obtain a woven fabric having a smooth and excellent texture, which is closer to the triacetate woven fabric,
Because the factor of the surface friction coefficient of the fabric has a great effect,
Particularly preferable refreshing feeling can be obtained when the KES friction coefficient is 0.150 or more for both the vertical and horizontal, the cloth / cloth static friction coefficient is 1.20 or less for both the vertical and horizontal, and the cloth / cloth dynamic friction coefficient is 1.00 or less for both the vertical and horizontal.

Here, the KES friction coefficient refers to a value obtained by measurement using a KES hand property measurement method described below.

<Measuring method of KES hand characteristics> “Textile Machinery Society Journal” Vol.26.No.
Tensile / bending / shear / compression / friction properties were measured according to "Characteristics of fabric mechanical properties for texture measurement and its measurement system" described on pages 721 to 728 of 10 (1973). .

In addition, the texture value (HV) of waist, tension, suppleness, swelling, shari, and kisimi is described in "Journal of the Textile Machinery Society" Vol.33, No.2 (1980), pages 164 to 168. It was calculated using the following KN-201 equation in accordance with "Handling Value Calculation Equations KN-101, KN-201 and KN-301".

<KN-201 formula> Here, Y: HV (cal.) C _i : a constant coefficient relating to the term related to the i-th physical quantity X _i : the i-th physical quantity or its logarithm converted value ▲ ▼: average value of X _i (Table 1) (a) are shown) sigma _i:.. shown in X _i standard deviation (Table 1 (a)) the i-th of a physical quantity, are 16 types, in turn, LT (tensile hardness), WT (tensile workload ), RT (Tension recovery rate), B
(Bending rigidity), 2HB (Hysteresis width of bending), G (Shear rigidity), 2HG (Hysteresis width of shear), 2HG5 (Hysteresis width of shear), LC (Compression hardness), WC (Work of compression), RC
(Compression recovery rate), MIU (friction coefficient), MMD (mean deviation of friction coefficient), SMD (surface roughness), T (thickness), W (weight per unit area). The difference between 2HG and 2HG5 is that the former has a hysteresis width of 0.5 ° deformation and the latter has a hysteresis width of 5 ° deformation.

For example, if the waist of the fabric is Y, C _{0 to} C ₁₆ are as shown in Table 1.
The values shown in the column of KOSHI in (b) are taken out from the top in order, while X _i , ▲ ▼, and σ _i are the values corresponding to i shown in Table 1 (a), respectively, in the above KN-201. The HV value of the waist of the fabric can be calculated by substituting into the equation.

However, X _i is a value measured based on the specified relevant physical quantity at each column formula.

Further, the cloth / cloth static friction coefficient and the cloth / cloth dynamic friction coefficient refer to values obtained by measuring as follows.

<Fabric / Fabric Friction Test Method> The cloth / fabric friction test method was measured as follows in accordance with the measuring method described in “Texture of Fabric”, page 206, published by The Japan Textile Machinery Society.

As shown in FIG. 7, a cloth sample 12 is placed on a flat table 10 and its left end is fixed to a clamp 8 on a drum 9. When the same cloth sample 13 is superimposed thereon, the weight 11 is placed on the two cloth samples 12 and 13 whose right ends are connected to the load cell, and the drum 9 is rotated counterclockwise. Move to 2
Since the cloth samples 12 and 13 are rubbed against each other, the friction resistance is measured and recorded by a load cell.

The weight of the weight 11 is 5 cm, the length is 7 cm, the weight is 300 g, and the tensile speed is 4.8 cm / min, and the static friction coefficient and the dynamic friction coefficient are calculated by the following equations.

[Example] (Example 1) Polyester copolymer obtained by copolymerizing dimethyl (5-sodium sulfo) isophthalate with terephthalic acid in an amount of 1.7 mol% in an aromatic dicarboxylic acid and polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 1,000 in a weight ratio of 1.0 wt% in a polymer. Using
By spinning using the die shown in FIG. 4, a cationically dyeable polyester multifilament (75D-24F) having a cross-sectional shape as shown in FIG. 1, that is, an elliptical cross-section having four slits was obtained. . The flatness of this filament was 2.0.

The multifilament was subjected to a random heat treatment using the apparatus shown in FIG. 5 to obtain a low shrink yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 4.3%.

Separately, from the same cationic dyeable polyester polymer as above, multifilament (30D
-24F). The boiling water shrinkage of this multifilament was as high as 14%.

These two kinds of filaments were air-entangled with an interlace nozzle to obtain a different shrinkage mixed fiber having a total fineness ratio of 0.4.

After weaving a plain woven fabric with a density of 86 pcs / inch and 79 pcs / inch horizontal, without performing twisting using this hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber, dyeing processing including alkali weight reduction processing is performed by a conventional method. Was.
At this time, the alkali weight loss rate was 17%. In the dyeing process, in order to fully express the shrinkage difference of the different shrinkage mixed fiber, low tension processing is performed, and the product density vertical 97 pieces / inch, horizontal 87 pieces / in
ch fabric was obtained.

The obtained polyester fabric had a smooth texture, and had moderate swelling and tightness and waist.

When this woven fabric was disassembled and the yarn length difference was measured, the warp yarn was 4.2% and the weft yarn was 5.3%.

Further, the calculation result of the ratio of the bending stiffness of the single filament of the sheath filament of the woven fabric decomposition yarn to the bending stiffness of the single fiber of the filament constituting the core was 0.32.

As a result of measuring the initial tensile modulus of the woven decomposed yarn, the warp yarn was 15 g / d and the weft yarn was 16 g / d.

The results of measuring the coefficient of friction of the woven fabric are as follows. The coefficient of cloth / cloth static friction is 1.05, the width 1.20, and the coefficient of kinetic friction of cloth / cloth is vertical.
0.80, horizontal 0.93, KES vertical coefficient of friction 0.215, horizontal 0.21
It was nine.

(Example 2) Dimethyl (5-sodium sulfo) isophthalate was added to terephthalic acid at 5.0 mol% in aromatic dicarboxylic acid.
Using the copolymerized polyester copolymer and the polymer obtained by adding 2.3% of titanium oxide to the polyester copolymer used in Example 1, the former (sheath portion) and the latter (core portion)
By performing composite spinning at a weight ratio of 3: 7, a multifilament yarn (75D-24F) composed of a composite fiber having a flatness of 2.0 and a cross-sectional shape as shown in FIG. 3 was obtained.

The former polyester copolymer was a cationic dyeable polyester having a higher alkali weight loss rate than the latter polyester copolymer.

This was subjected to a random heat treatment in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a low shrinkage yarn having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 4.8%.

Separately, a multifilament having a round cross section (30D-16F) using the latter polymer containing 2.3% of titanium oxide was obtained.
The boiling water shrinkage of this filament was as high as 14.5%.

These two filaments were combined and twisted at 600 T / m to obtain a different shrinkage mixed fiber having a total fineness ratio of 0.4.

The hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn was woven and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. During this processing step, alkali weight reduction processing was performed at a weight reduction rate of 21%.

The obtained woven fabric had a smooth texture and moderate swelling, tension and waist.

In addition, when the cross section of the low shrinkage yarn of the sheath portion among the woven fabric decomposition yarns was examined, it was an elliptical shape having four slits as shown in FIG.

In addition, the result of calculating the ratio of the bending stiffness of the single fiber of the sheath filament of the woven fabric decomposing yarn to the bending stiffness of the single fiber of the filament constituting the core was 0.72.

As a result of measuring the initial tensile modulus of the woven fabric decomposition yarn, the warp yarn was 14 g / d and the weft yarn was 13 g / d.

The results of measuring the coefficient of friction of the woven fabric are as follows. The coefficient of cloth / cloth static friction is 0.58, width 0.68, and the coefficient of cloth / cloth dynamic friction is vertical.
0.48, horizontal 0.55, KES vertical coefficient of friction 0.164, horizontal 0.15
It was 0.

(Example 3, Comparative Example) Dimethyl (5-sodium sulfo) isophthalate was added to terephthalic acid in an amount of 1.5 mol% in aromatic dicarboxylic acid.
The copolymer (polyester copolymer) and a polyester homopolymer containing 2.3% of titanium oxide were used, and the weight ratio of the former (sheath) to the latter (core) was 3: 7.
By performing composite spinning, a multifilament yarn (75D-24F) composed of a composite fiber having a flatness of 2.0 and a cross-sectional shape as shown in FIG. 6 was obtained.

The former polyester copolymer was a cationic dyeable polyester having a higher alkali weight loss speed than a polyester homopolymer.

This was subjected to a random heat treatment in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a low shrinkage yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 5.2%.

Separately, it is made of polyethylene terephthalate homopolymer containing 2.3% titanium oxide and has a boiling water shrinkage of 16% (30D
-24F, for Example 3), boiling water shrinkage 6% (30D-24F, for comparative example), boiling water shrinkage 15% (30D-12F, for comparative example)
Boiling water shrinkage 16% (50D-48F, for Example 3), boiling water shrinkage 17% (30D-20F, for Example 3) Boiling water shrinkage 16% (25D
-24F, for Example 3) were obtained.

These high shrinkage yarns were twisted at 600 T / m while being combined with the low shrinkage yarns to obtain six kinds of mixed fiber yarns.

Using the obtained six kinds of mixed fiber yarns, weaving was performed in the same manner as in Example 2, and dyeing and finishing including alkali weight reduction treatment with an alkali weight loss rate of 19% were performed by a conventional method.
(-), 6 levels of plain fabrics of Comparative Example (,) were obtained.

In addition, the obtained weaving densities of the six types were such that only Example 3 had
All were vertical except 89 / inch and horizontal 81 / inch
97 lines / inch and 87 lines / inch.

Yarn length difference of blended yarn, initial tensile modulus, friction coefficient of fabric,
Table 2 shows the results of the texture measurement.

The woven fabrics of Examples 3 to 3 of the present invention have a smooth texture and moderate swelling, tension, and waist. However, in the case of the woven fabric of the comparative example, the initial tensile modulus of the mixed yarn is high, and the yarn length difference is small. The compression work amount of the texture was small, and the texture became rough and hard without the swelling feeling. In the case of the woven fabric of the comparative example, the bending stiffness ratio of the core-sheath composite yarn was high, so that the bending stiffness of the fabric was high, and the fabric had a cored texture.

In addition, as a result of examining the cross-sectional shape of 75D-24F of the woven fabric decomposition yarn, each level was an elliptical shape having six slits as shown in FIG.

[Effects of the Invention] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a polyester fiber multifilament woven fabric having a good texture that has a smooth skin without giving a strong twist, and has a swelling and a refreshing feeling. Became possible for the first time.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view of an example of a filler used in the present invention,
FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view of another example of the filler used in the present invention, and FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view of one example of a filler which is a composite fiber used in the present invention. FIG. 4 shows a die shape used to obtain a filament having the cross section shown in FIG. FIG. 5 shows an example of a random heat treatment apparatus. FIG. 6 shows a cross-sectional view of another example of a filament which is a conjugate fiber used in the present invention. FIG. 7 shows a cloth / cloth friction coefficient measuring device. In the figure, 1: Slit 2: Part not removed by alkali reduction 3: Part removed by alkali reduction 4: Supply roller 5: Yarn vibration device 6: Heat treatment device 7: Take-off roller 8: Clamp 9: Drum 10: Flat base 11: Weight 12: Cloth sample 13: Cloth sample

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of the front page (56) References JP-A-63-190083 (JP, A) JP-A-57-51808 (JP, A) JP-A-58-8181 (JP, A) JP-A-57-8181 29626 (JP, A) JP-A-1-132874 (JP, A) Jiko 61-10545 (JP, Y2)

Claims (3)

(57) [Claims] 1. A polyester filament woven fabric comprising a core-sheath composite structure mixed yarn of two kinds of filaments, wherein the filament constituting the sheath portion has an elliptical cross section having a slit-like groove, The ratio of the bending stiffness of the single filament of the core filament to the bending stiffness of the single filament of the filament constituting the core is 0.2 or more and 0.8 or less, and the total fineness ratio of the sheath filament and the core filament is 0.3 or more and 0.7 or less. A polyester filament woven fabric, wherein the initial tensile modulus of the yarn is from 8 g / d to 18 g / d. 2. The polyester fabric according to claim 1, wherein at least the sheath filament is made of a cationic dyeable polyester. 3. The polyester fabric according to claim 1, wherein the KES friction coefficient is 0.150 or more, the cloth / cloth static friction coefficient is 1.20 or less, and the cloth / cloth dynamic friction coefficient is 1.00 or less.